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Miss Chen
2018年07月17日
Miss Chen
Knowing when to plant your vegetable garden ensures a healthy growth cycle and harvest no matter where you live. Different areas have much different planting times. Michigan gardeners, for example, have cold winters and sometimes late springs, depending on which part of the state they live in. Timing for warm-season, cool-season and tender crops varies greatly and relies heavily on soil temperature and frost dates. Warm- Vs Cool-Season Crops
Not all vegetable crops require the same season or temperatures to grow vigorously, nor are they all equally tolerant of frost, shade, heat or snow. Warm-season crops are those that grow best during the warmer parts of the season. These include sweet corn (Zea mays var. saccharata), cucumbers (Cucumis sativa), tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum), peppers (Capsicum spp.) and melons (Cucumis melo); all of these are tender crops that are susceptible to frost damage or even death by frost. Cool-season vegetables, on the other hand, prefer the cooler temperatures of fall and spring. Many are frost-tolerant, some to temperatures as low as 20 degrees Fahrenheit. Onions (Allium sepa), peas (Pisum sativum), spinach (Spinacia oleracea), leafy lettuces (Lactuca sativa) and cole crops (Brassica oleracea) are all cool-season vegetables. Cole crops include kale, broccoli, cauliflower, kohlrabi and cabbage. Cool-season vegetables tend to bolt, become tough or woody or have otherwise adverse flavors or textures when grown in summer. Frost Dates
Many cool-season vegetables can handle planting times as early as the soil thaws and is workable, usually late March through early April in southern Michigan and three weeks later in the most northern parts. Tender, warm-season crops, however, require much warmer soil temperatures and must wait until the danger of frost has passed. Planting on Memorial Day is a good rule of thumb, but frost dangers occur frequently throughout much of Michigan in spring. If you plant around mid- to late May, keep an eye on the weather forecast and cover your seedlings or transplants if temperatures will fall below 40 degrees F. Checking Soil Temperature
Checking the soil temperature helps ensure your ground is ready for various types of seeds. Different crops grow best at different soil temperatures. Purchase a soil thermometer from your local hardware store or garden center; you can also use any thermometer that has the capability of reading temperatures at different depths. Many tender warm-season crops require a soil temperature of between 64 and 75 degrees F, while tomatoes and corn grow well when planted at around 55 degrees F. Cold-tolerant crops will germinate and grow at a soil temperature of around 45 degrees F. Days to Harvest
For fall planting, knowing the days to harvest, sometimes called days to maturity, of each crop will help you determine when to plant the seeds. The days to harvest is listed on each seed packet and determines how many days a seed takes to mature and produce harvest-ready fruit. For warm-season crops with short growing times, you can often plant twice during the summer. Subtract the days to harvest from your last average fall frost date to give you a planting date for frost-tender vegetables.
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Miss Chen
2018年07月17日
Miss Chen
Snow peas, bean sprouts and broccoli sometimes seem the only vegetables that people associate with China. In actuality, there are dozens of different vegetables grown in China. Most are no different than the vegetables found in markets around the world. And the vegetables come in most colors of the rainbow: green, yellow, red, purple and white.
Green Vegetables Green veggies abound in China. Popular green vegetables grown there include cucumbers, spinach, celery, garlic shoots, green peppers, cilantro, broccoli, lettuces, snow peas, rape, artichokes, green onions and string beans. Yard-long string beans are served on birthdays because the length of the bean is said to represent long life. Yellow Vegetables Corn is a popular vegetable in China, where it's served on and off the cob. Sweet potatoes and ginger are also grown in China. Red Vegetables Although technically a fruit, tomatoes are generally eaten like vegetables (in salads) and are popular to grow in China. Other red veggies grown in China include radishes, and red and chili peppers. White Vegetables Garlic, the most popular seasoning used in cooking, and also served pickled as a side dish, is grown in China. Potatoes, leeks, cauliflower, lotus root and onions are other white vegetables grown around China.
Mixed Colors Vegetables of other colors grown in China include purple eggplants, orange carrots and the Chinese turnip, which is lime green on the outside and fuchsia-colored on the inside.
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Miss Chen
2018年07月17日
Miss Chen
Bean plants are one of the popular crops for homeowners to grow. They are healthful, providing essential nutrients. They also are versatile and can be used in a variety of recipes. Most bean plants also have the advantage of being able to be grown by the average backyard or hobby gardener. There are many varieties of beans, but whatever variety you plant, it is important to know how much water is necessary for its proper growth and development. Bush and Pole Bean Watering
Bush and pole bean varieties, such as string beans or green beans, like warm soil and full sun. In a typical weather climate, water your bush and pole beans at least once a week, but only during dry spells. If your location has not had much rain, feel the soil near the beans' roots to check whether or not it seems dry. Water the plants at the roots, and keep the plants as dry as possible. There is not a set amount of water that a bush or pole bean plant needs, but keep the soil uniformly moist at all times. Keeping the soil moist increases the yield for bush and pole beans. Watering and keeping the ground wet is most critical when the beans flower. Kidney, Navy, Garbanzo and Pinto Bean Watering
These beans are all of the dried beans variety. Like bush and pole beans, there is not a set amount of water for gardeners to give these growing bean plants. The soil around the plants must be kept evenly moist while they grow and given regular water if necessary to maintain moisture. Once bean pods are fairly mature, you may stop watering to encourage the bean drying process and to prevent rotting.
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Miss Chen
2018年07月17日
Miss Chen
If you have begun your potatoes in a greenhouse or if you need to move your potatoes to another spot in the garden , your potato plants can be safely transplanted by following a few simple steps. Potato plants should be transplanted at least three weeks before harvest on a cooler day.
Step 1 Prepare the soil where the potatoes will be transplanted. The soil should be dug up, cleared of rocks and mixed with compost in the fall. Choose a location that is sunny and that is rotational--i.e., not the same place you grew potatoes last year. Rake in fertilizer two weeks before transplanting. The soil's pH level should not be higher than 6. Step 2 Harden the soil of potatoes to be transplanted from a greenhouse by placing them outdoors. Start hardening a week before transplanting. Place them outdoors for about one hour the first day, then gradually set them out for longer each day after. Step 3 Dig transplant holes in the ground. The holes should be approximately six inches wide and eight inches deep, varying depending on the maturity of the plants and the size of containers they were pre-grown in. The top of the soil of the plant being transplanted should sit at surface of the ground when planted. Make the holes far enough apart that the potatoes will not be overcrowded. Give room to transplants that still have growing to do. Moisten the soil evenly before transplanting. Step 4 Dig out potato plants to be transplanted by slicing the soil around the plant with a garden trowel. Dig far enough away from the plant so as to not hit or cut the potato in the ground. Use your hand shovel or a hoe to carefully and gently pry up the plant. Keep it packed in as much soil as possible. Promptly move the plant to its transplant hole.
Step 5 Remove potatoes grown in a container by placing one hand on the soil and around the plant, turning it upside down and tapping on the bottom of the container. Promptly move them to the transplant holes. Step 6 Fill in any gaps in the holes with soil and smooth down the surface of the ground. Do not pack in the soil too tightly. Water thoroughly. Place a layer of mulch around the stems.
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Miss Chen
2018年07月16日
Miss Chen
Spaghetti squash (Cucurbita pepo) produces large seeds that store for up to six years, provided they're properly collected and prepared. Named for its cooked flesh, which resembles spaghetti, spaghetti squash is also called spaghetti gourd, vegetable spaghetti, Manchurian squash and squaghetti. The fruits are smooth-skinned, about 10 inches long, 5 inches in diameter and weigh about 2 pounds.
Harvesting Fruit Spaghetti squash fruits are ready for harvest about 70 to 80 days after sowing. Only seeds from ripe fruit are likely to sprout when sown later. Harvest spaghetti squash when the vine stem withers and the fruit skin is tough. If you aren't sure whether a spaghetti squash fruit is ripe, push a thumbnail into the skin. If the fruit is ready for harvesting, your nail won't pierce the skin. Separating Seed Seed from spaghetti squash fruits must be separated from the pulp and soaked in water. Healthy seeds sink to the bottom in a few days. Cut a spaghetti squash in half lengthways with a sharp knife. Scoop the seeds from the center with a spoon. Put the seeds in a jar or bucket with an equal amount of water. Stir the seed and water mixture once a day for two to four days. A mold may form, but this is harmless. When some seeds sink to the bottom and some float, pour off the water, pulp, floating seeds and mold. Spread the remaining seeds on a paper towel or screen to dry.
Storing Seed Drying and freezing spaghetti squash seeds helps keep them fresh and free of pests and diseases. When the seeds are completely dry, place them in paper envelopes or glass jars. Write the name of the seed type and the date on the envelopes or jar labels, and put them in a freezer. After two days, transfer the seeds in their storage containers to a refrigerator. Plant the seeds within three years.
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Miss Chen
2018年07月16日
Miss Chen
Potatoes are a staple of the American diet and are a common ingredient in many foods. While they are heavily cultivated commercially, potatoes are also fairly easy to grow at home. If you have grown potatoes in the past and are looking to get another crop started this year, you may have considered using seed potatoes. Proper storage and care of your seed potatoes can mean all the difference when it comes to a healthy, bountiful crop.
What Are Seed Potatoes? You grow seed potatoes specifically for replanting to produce a potato crop. They are not a different kind of potato. Instead, it is their purpose that causes them to have a different classification. Potatoes are tubers, which means that they grow as the food supply for the leafy green part of their plant. The tuber grows larger underground to store food for the plant. If provided proper nutrients, tubers like potatoes grow sprouts underground, which we call eyes. The eyes of a potato then develop into new plants. You might think that you can start a potato crop using store-bought potatoes. However, most of the potatoes sold to grocery stores have chemical treatments so that they do not grow eyes while on the shelf. As a result, they are far less likely to be effective as seed potatoes. In addition, the chance of a diseased potato crop is much greater if you use store-bought potatoes as the basis for your planting. How to Harvest Seed Potatoes To harvest seed potatoes, dig up any potatoes you wish to store for next year's harvest. Brush the dirt off the potatoes, but do not wash them. You may also purchase certified disease-free potatoes from a garden supply or home improvement store. Many experts recommend starting fresh with certified seed potatoes each year to lessen the risk of an infected and ultimately damaged crop. Plants such as potatoes, tomatoes, eggplants and peppers (all members of the Solanaceae or Nightshade family) are particularly prone to plant-borne illnesses that can destroy entire crops. If you choose to move forward with homegrown seed potatoes, be sure to practice crop rotation, planting your potatoes in a different place each year to prevent disease. Not only is this important for the yield of your harvest, it is essential for your seed potatoes. This is because diseases carried by these seed potatoes are likely to persist into another growing season. Another way to maximize the return on your crop is to harvest seed potatoes of varying types, including heirloom varieties. If you do accidentally introduce a disease to your crop, you might have a higher yield if you have established a diverse population.
How to Store Seed Potatoes Store your seed potatoes in a cool, dry place that hovers around 50 degrees Fahrenheit. While some humidity is essential for your seed potatoes, you should not expose them to too much moisture, or they may begin to rot. In addition, it is critical that potatoes have time to rest, so you should not move or expose them to light or heat during the storage period. Locations like cool closets or cellars are excellent places for seed potatoes. If you are planning to store your potatoes in a basement location, take care to place them so that mice or other nuisance wildlife cannot get to them. Keep the potatoes in a cardboard box or brown paper bag during their hibernation period. However, they require ventilation, so do not stack or pile the potatoes too high. Additionally, do not cover or close the container so that air cannot enter. Three to four weeks before you wish to plant your crop, move your seed potatoes to a well-lit area with high humidity. A sunny window or under a grow light is an excellent choice. The purpose of this exercise is to encourage the sprouting of your potatoes. Covering seed potatoes with moist burlap bags can aid in the sprouting process. How to Plant Seed Potatoes If your seed potatoes are small, you do not need to cut them. However, if you have stored large potatoes, you should cut them into pieces with two to three eyes each. Each piece should weigh about two ounces. Following these guidelines will maximize your crop yield. You will need to either plant any cut potatoes immediately or let them dry for up to two days and then plant them. Plant your seed potatoes in well-drained, rich and fertilized soil that is six inches deep. If you choose to hill your potatoes, mound the dirt covering them and add a layer of mulch on top. Keep hills about one foot apart. Water your seed potatoes regularly, providing each plant two inches of water per week.
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Miss Chen
2018年07月16日
Miss Chen
When planning your vegetable garden, timing is crucial to getting the most from your hard work. Ohio gardeners can plant during three of the four seasons to get a bigger bounty at harvest times. Summers are long and hot, and winters can be brutal, but the spring and fall seasons bring additional planting times often overlooked. Ohio's Climate Most of the Ohio falls within U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zone 6a, although certain areas are in USDA zones 5b and 6b. In USDA zone 6a, the average annual extreme low temperature is minus 10 to minus 15 degrees Fahrenheit. The ground freezes in winter; wait until the soil is workable to plant your early-spring crops. Frost Dates
Having a basic understanding and knowledge of the weather and average annual frost dates can help you plan your vegetable garden. Certain crops require a long growing season, some are considered tender and others grow best in cool temperatures. Knowing the average annual first and lost frost dates will help you get a good idea of when to plant your spring and fall vegetables. For much of Ohio, the dates of the average last spring frost -- at 32 degrees Fahrenheit -- range from the end of April to late May; the first frost dates in fall range from mid-September to mid-October. Summer Vegetable Garden The summer vegetable garden often takes first place among gardeners. In Ohio, planting dates for summer vegetables are after the last frost but early enough to ensure a long growing season. Many tender crops such as corn (Zea mays), tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum), peppers (Capsicum spp.) and beans (Phaseolus spp.) need long summer days and a long growing season to produce the best crops. Tender crops are particularly frost-sensitive and may become irreparably damaged if exposed to frost or cold temperatures. Plant in the middle to end of May to help ensure a bountiful harvest. Fall Vegetable Garden
Certain vegetable crops do best when they mature after the hottest part of summer. For example, summer's heat can make lettuces (Lactuca sativa) bolt and produce bitter leaves. Cole crops, including broccoli and cauliflower (both Brassica oleracea var. botrytis), cabbage (Brassica oleracea var. capitata), Brussels sprouts (Brassica oleracea var. gemmifera) and kale (Brassica oleracea var. viridis) also do best when planted late. Many of these crops are cold-tolerant and able to withstand frosts and temperatures down to about 20 degrees Fahrenheit. Planting times for these cool-season crops are midsummer, allowing the plants to grow into fall. Plant them between late June and September. Early-Spring Planting You have the option of planting cool-season crops as soon as the soil is workable. Lettuces, root vegetables and cole crops can often go in the ground in March or April, as soon as the temperatures start rising and the ground thaws. This timing allows the plants to grow before summer's heat makes them bolt or turn bitter. Early-spring planting also reduces the amount of pests on seedlings. Help protect young plants' tender leaves and stems from unexpected frosts by draping a protective sheet over stakes in the ground around them or by placing plastic bottles or milk jugs around individual plants.
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Miss Chen
2018年07月16日
Miss Chen
Fast-growing annual vines with yellow blooms up to 5 inches across, loofah plants (Luffa spp.) usually require a four-month growing season to produce mature gourds. Therefore, gardeners in the north may need to start them indoors about 4 to 6 weeks before the last spring frost. During the summer and early autumn, the heavy vines should be grown in humus-rich soil in full sun, preferably on a sturdy trellis or fence to keep their 1 to 2-foot gourds off the ground. Those fruits must be harvested before or just after the first autumn frost and are used both as bath sponges and dish scrubbers.
Pick and Peel Mature Sponges If you live in an area with a long growing season, Jack Arnott of Cobb County Extension Service recommends that you allow your loofah gourds to dry on the vine until their skin is brown and brittle and you hear seeds rattle when you shake those gourds. Break open the skin at the blossom the end opposite the stem of the gourd to reach those seeds, if you wish to save them. It usually is easy to pick off the rest of the brittle skin with your fingers to reveal the sponge beneath. If you prefer, you can dunk the gourds in a bucket of water instead -- for any time period lasting from 5 minutes to several days -- and peel off their skins in wet strips. Pick and Peel Immature Sponges If your growing season isn't quite long enough, Jeanine Davis of North Carolina State University Cooperative Extension reports that you can harvest adequate sponges from gourds which have only partially yellowed, as long as their skins are beginning to slip. After you make an opening to save the seeds, grab the end of one of the fibers running the length of the gourd's ridges and pull on it to unzip the remaining skin. Clean and Dry Sponges Immediately plunge a less-than-mature sponge into a bucket of water to wash out any juices that remain due to its only half-dry condition. Although the sponge still will be white at that stage, it's a good idea to soak it in a bleach solution to eliminate fungi and bacteria. Mature sponges also should be immersed in bleach solution, of 4 tablespoons of bleach per 1 gallon of water, both to kill contaminants and to brighten their naturally off-white color.
After disinfecting the sponges, rinse them with clean water and spread them in the sun to dry. A porous surface works well for this purpose. You can turn screens into drying tables by laying them horizontally on top of sawhorses.
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Miss Chen
2018年07月16日
Miss Chen
The pepperoncini is a type of pepper that is also known as Tuscan pepper, sweet Italian pepper and golden Greek pepper. These mild peppers are frequently served with pizza and offer a tangy flavor. They are grown in much the same way that other peppers are grown. After growth, these peppers are usually pickled and placed into jars for sale.
Step 1 Start your pepperoncini plants as seeds inside in the early spring or late winter. Press the seeds approximately a quarter-inch into a good, all-purpose potting soil. Water them daily to keep them moist and place the containers in a sunny window. Typically, you will being to see seedlings in one to two weeds. Step 2 Transplant your seedlings outside when the night temperatures are consistently above 55 degrees and there is no longer a threat of frost. Soak the pots before you transplant your peppers. Make sure the root ball is completely soaked. You do not want the soil to dry out. Step 3 Choose a sunny location for your seedlings. Dig a hole that is the same size as the pot that you are transplanting the peppers from. Separate the roots a little to loosen them so they will spread out after they are planted. Set the seedling into the ground and cover it back with the original soil that came from the hole. Step 4 Place your plants 10 to 15 inches apart in rows. This will give you enough room between plants to harvest and will provide your plants with enough room to grow.
Step 5 Apply a 2- to 4-inch layer of mulch around your plants so that they will maintain their water balance and not dry out. This will also keep the moisture evenly distributed and help to cut down on weeds in your garden. Step 6 Water your plants daily while they are growing with at least an inch of water. For a hotter pepper you can water the plants once a week, but do not wait longer than that or the pods will dry out. Step 7 Stake your pepper plants once they begin to grow and develop heavy pods. This will prevent the plants from breaking. Drive a stake into the ground and use string to tie the plant up. Step 8 Harvest your pepper plants when they are 2 to 3 inches long and are a bright green in color. They will store in the refrigerator for several weeks, or you can freeze them for up to a year. Pickling preserves them for several years.
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Miss Chen
2018年07月15日
Miss Chen
Nitrogen is viewed to be the most important of all the nutrients in fertilizers. It is also the most difficult nutrient to measure in soil. The microbes in the soil control the day to day supply of nitrogen. In long spells of cold, dry or wet weather, the microbes are slowed down, consequently affecting nitrogen release in the soil. Too much nitrogen is not good since it can cause fertilizer burn. It can even retard the growth of crops or lead to excessive vegetative growth. Different vegetables have different requirements for nitrogen.
Distinguishing Between Fertilizers One of the easiest ways to figure out nutrient content in fertilizer is to remember that fertilizers are categorized by the amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, or the N-P-K ratio. The highest nitrogen fertilizer, ammonium nitrate, contains the ratio of 33-0-0 or 34-0-0, but this is only to be used in special soil and growth conditions. Similarly, the balanced fertilizer, as the name implies, contains a balance of all three nutrients in a ratio of 6-6-6, 8-8-8 or 10-10-10. High Nitrogen Requirement Vegetables that require high nitrogen levels include beets, Brussels sprouts, broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, Asian greens, potato, leek, spinach and Swiss chard. High nitrogen ratio in fertilizers is 16-5-5. Medium Nitrogen Requirement Vegetables that have a medium or balanced nitrogen requirement include chicory, asparagus, eggplant, lettuce, garlic, onion, squash, pepper, tomato and sweet corn. A balanced nitrogen ratio in fertilizers is 16-16-16. Low Nitrogen Requirement Vegetables that require a low level of nitrogen include cucumber, carrots, fava beans, peas, radish, parsnip, turnip and rutabaga. A low nitrogen ratio in fertilizers is 5-10-10. Nitrogen for Fruit Bearing Vegetables The fruit-bearing vegetables such as eggplant, cucumber, pepper, melon and tomato need a good dose of nitrogen in order to start off a healthy plant. But later as the fruit starts to form they need a fertilizer that has high concentrations of potash.
Tips for Fertilizing the Vegetable Garden For optimal production, fertilizers need to be added every year to the vegetable garden. The best way to determine the levels of phosphorus, nitrogen and potash in the soil is through a soil test. Soil tests determine exactly how much nutrient needs to be added to the soil in view of the vegetables that are being grown. The easiest way to fertilize is to use a good quality commercial fertilizer made specifically for vegetable gardening. Generally, the leafy vegetables and corn need greater quantities of nitrogen, the pod and fruit crops require more phosphorus, and the root vegetables need an extra kick of potash. Unless the soil is markedly deficient in the important nutrients it is often not important to use special fertilizers for the different vegetables in smaller gardens. However, in large commercial vegetable crops, the soil analysis is targeted to match specific crops.
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