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Miss Chen
2018年07月06日
Miss Chen
Okra, also known as gumbo, is a warm-weather vegetable that thrives in the long, hot summers of the southern United States. Although okra loves hot weather, it can successfully be grown in cooler Northern climates as well. Plant okra seeds directly in your garden seven to 10 days after the last expected frost in your area, as the seeds won't grow in cold weather. Okra will be ready to harvest approximately 60 days after planting.
Step 1 Spade the soil in a sunny area in your garden. Work the soil to a depth of at least 6 inches, then work in an all-purpose granular fertilizer with a ratio such as 10-10-10. Apply 1 to 2 lbs. of fertilizer for every 100 square feet of garden space. Step 2 Make shallow rows with the corner of your hoe. Allow 3 feet between each row. Plant the okra seeds 4 to 6 inches apart in the rows, then cover the seeds with 1 inch of soil. Water lightly with a hose and spray attachment. Step 3 Thin the okra seedlings when the plants are 2 to 4 inches tall. Allow 12 to 18 inches between each plant. Step 4 Water okra deeply enough to saturate the soil once every seven to 10 days during extended hot, dry periods. Otherwise, okra requires no irrigation.
Step 5 Harvest okra with kitchen shears or a sharp knife when the pods are 2 to 4 inches long. Okra ripens quickly in late summer so check the plants every two to three days. Handle the pods gently as okra is tender and bruises easily. Pick regularly, as the plant will go to seed and won't continue to produce if the pods are allowed to remain on the plant.
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Miss Chen
2018年07月06日
Miss Chen
Onions are ideally suited for container gardening. Even a 6- to 10-inch container is large enough to get started, and can fit easily on a balcony or doorstep. Growing onions in containers is a perfect solution for space-challenged gardeners. As an added bonus, container gardening is easy on sore knees and backs as very little bending and stooping is required. Plant onions in spring and in a few weeks you'll have fresh, delicious onions.
Step 1 Purchase onion sets at a nursery or garden center. Sets, which are small onions that were started the previous year, are the easiest and most effective way of planting onions in containers. Small sets, which are smaller than a dime, are best for growing large onions for use in cooking or for slicing. Sets larger than a dime are best for growing small green onions often used in salads, and will be ready for harvest very quickly. Sets can be planted in March or April. Step 2 Prepare a container at least 6 to 10 inches in diameter. Any container with drainage holes in the bottom will work. Fill the container with any good quality commercial potting soil. Step 3 Plant large onion sets about 1 inch below the surface of the soil. Plant the sets close enough to touch, as the green onions will be harvested before crowding becomes problematic. Small sets, which will be used for large, dry onions, should be planted with 2 to 4 inches between each set. Step 4 Water the onions immediately. Check the moisture daily by poking your finger into the top of the soil. If the top inch of the soil is dry, water the onions until water runs through the drainage hole. Don't water again until the top inch of the soil is dry. During hot, dry weather, onions may need water every day. Step 5 Fertilize the onions two to four weeks after planting and repeat every two to three weeks. Use a regular water-soluble fertilizer applied according to the directions on the package. Alternatively, use a time-release granular fertilizer that can be mixed into the soil at planting time. Step 6 Begin harvesting green onions when the tops are at least 6 inches tall. Green onions are best harvested when they are small, as the onions will develop a stronger flavor as they get larger.
Step 7 Harvest large onions in July or August when the tops of the plants begin to fall over. Harvest in the morning and lay the onions on top of the soil to dry until afternoon. Braid the tops of the onions in bunches of six to eight onions and hang the bunches in a warm, dry place to dry for two to three weeks
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Miss Chen
2018年07月06日
Miss Chen
The dreaded aphid is only one of several leaf-eating insects that can take over your pepper plants and destroy your vision of an abundant pepper harvest. Dealing with chewing insects is one of the most difficult aspects of raising pepper plants, however there are a number of safe methods for getting rid of these insects and keeping your pepper plants healthy and thriving. Maintenance is generally required with any type of insect removal to prevent the insects from returning. Make your own insect spray to controls aphids, using common household items.
Use finely chopped garlic. Finely chop the garlic with a knife on a cutting board. Measure the vegetable oil, garlic and hot sauce, and mix in a small bowl. Allow to stand overnight.
Pour mixture in a spray bottle. Strain the mixture the following morning, and add the water. Add the dishwashing soap and stir gently with a mixing spoon. Pour mixture into a spray bottle.
Concentrate on the underside of plant leaves. Spray the leaves of the pepper plants thoroughly with the solution. Concentrate the spray on the underside of the leaves, where chewing insects often appear. Repeat weekly or as necessary. Keep a close watch on the plants to make sure insects do not return. Store any unused mixture in a sealed container in your refrigerator for later use.
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Miss Chen
2018年07月06日
Miss Chen
Purple hull peas (Vigna unguiculata ssp. unguiculata), a type of southern pea, produce pale green beans with a pink eye in dull purple pods. They take about 90 days to reach maturity from planting. The seeds require warm soil and frost-free weather to sprout successfully, and they don't transplant well, so sow them directly in the garden in late spring or early summer after frost danger passes.
Garden Selection Purple hull peas can tolerate light afternoon shade, especially in hot climates, but they grow best when they receive full, all-day sunlight. They thrive in any well-drained loam garden soil with a pH of between 6.0 and 6.5. Heavy clay or soil that doesn't drain quickly after rain or watering can slow germination or cause the seeds or seedlings to rot. Purple hull peas grow on vines, so select a site with room for stakes or supports and where the peas won't block sunlight to lower-growing plants. Soil Preparation Adding compost and a light fertilization about 10 days before planting gives the purple hull peas the nutrients they need for initial growth. Cover the bed with a 2-inch layer of compost and sprinkle 1 pound of 5-10-10 fertilizer along every 50-foot row. Turn the compost into the top 6 inches of soil. Right before planting, lightly moisten the seed and place it in a bag with Rhizobium bacteria powder, shaking the bag gently to coat the seeds. The bacteria treatment allows the purple hull peas to fix their own nitrogen in the soil after planting, minimizing the need for later fertilization. Planting Basics The seeds sprout and begin putting on healthy growth when soil temperatures are 60 degrees Fahrenheit and air temperatures are above 70 F. Plant the seeds about 1 ½ inches deep, spacing them 4 to 6 inches apart. Plant along the base of a bean trellis for support, or erect bean tepees and sow one seed at the base of each tepee pole. You can also install a 4-foot stake for each individual plant if you are only growing a few. If you plant multiple rows, set them about 2 feet apart so you have room to move between the plants for weeding, maintenance and harvest.
Early Care Sprouting usually occurs within a week if you keep the soil moist. Water as needed so the top 6 inches of soil remains moist but not wet until germination. After sprouting, continue to water once or twice weekly, giving the plants about 1 inch of water a week or enough so the soil doesn't dry completely. Purple hull peas don't require watering if there is sufficient rain to keep the soil moist. Overhead watering can lead to flower loss or fungal problems as the plants mature, so water near the base of the plants to keep the foliage dry. Pull weeds as soon as they sprout so they don't compete with the peas for water or nutrients.
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Miss Chen
2018年07月05日
Miss Chen

Vegetables that need a strong support system, such as squash, gourds, melons, cucumbers and tomatoes are your best choices to grow on a chain link fence. With its sturdy metal posts and strong wires, chain-link provides enough strength to withstand heavy loads. Chain-link also provides beans and tomatoes ample space for their long vines and branches to grow both vertically and horizontally.
Green beans produce abundant crops. All beans, whether pole or bush, send out curling shoots that need the close-knit weaving of a chain-link fence. Even though you can grow bush beans without support, they do best and are more easily harvested when trained to grow vertically. Pole beans produce longer than bush beans and will cover a larger area of fencing, according to Dr. Leonard P. Perry, Professor at the University of Vermont Extension. All beans produce flowers before they produce the bean pods, but scarlet runner beans have attractive, red flowers that many vegetable gardeners love. Beans need a fence in full sun with soil that has good drainage. Gourds and Squashes
Vegetable gardeners have a wide variety of gourds and squashes to choose from. The strength of a chain-link fence is especially beneficial when growing gourds and winter squash; the vines themselves require the nooks and crannies of the fence to pull themselves up. The wires provide places to tie cloth or netting support to hold up heavy individual squashes and gourds to prevent their stems from breaking. Train gourd and squash vines to grow both vertically and horizontally on the fence, as the vines can reach up to 25 feet for gourds and up to 10 feet for squash. Tomatoes
Growing tomatoes on chain-link fencing prevents soil diseases from damaging plants. Most vegetables gardeners find that tomatoes quickly outgrow the standard tomato cages bought in the local garden store and using just one or two stakes doesn’t provide enough support. Chain-link fencing is a perfect alternative. Barbara Damrosch, author of "The Garden Primer," recommends a 5-foot high support, so add additional height to your fence if necessary by tying metal stakes or wooden dowels to the existing poles and stringing twine between the stakes. Use strips of cloth or soft twine to support the vines so that stems are not damaged. A chain-link fence allows you to train the tomato vines to grow both vertically and horizontally.
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Miss Chen
2018年07月05日
Miss Chen
Split peas are made when regular peas, such as English peas, green peas and lentils are grown and dried. The peas are shelled, skinned and left out for drying. Once they are completely dry, the peas begin to split in half naturally along a center line. They can also be split mechanically to speed things up. After the peas have been naturally or mechanically split, they are packaged and sold as split peas, which are used in soups, stews and other recipes.
Step 1 Plant your peas in late winter or early spring when the temperatures are still cool. The plants should receive full sunlight for at least six hours every day. Step 2 Til at least the top 6 inches of the soil to loosen the dirt. Remove any large rocks, sticks or other debris. Add 2 to 3 inches of organic compost into the soil to provide the peas with enough nitrogen to become established. Peas will not need additional fertilizer. Step 3 Use a hoe to make 2-inch deep rows. Drag the corner of the hoe down the garden in a straight line to make a small trench. Rows should be 18 to 24 inches apart. Step 4 Drop 3 to 4 seeds together in groups into the rows. Place the groups of seed at least 1 inch apart. Lightly cover the peas with native soil to fill the rows slightly higher than the surrounding ground.
Step 5 Apply 1 to 2 inches of water on the growing peas every week. Step 6 Harvest the peas every few days when they begin to get full and swollen. Harvesting usually occurs 45 to 60 days after the pea plants have emerged.
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Miss Chen
2018年07月05日
Miss Chen
A ripe rind is one sign a butternut squash (Cucurbita moschata) is ready to pick, and there are other signs. An annual winter squash vine, butternut squash grows 3/4 to 1 1/2 feet tall with a vine 10 to 15 feet long. Creamy-white to orange-yellow flowers appear in late spring and orange-fleshed fruits develop, which ripen in fall. Changes in the vine and changes in the color and texture of the fruit are some signs to look for that tell you butternut squash is ready for harvesting.
Days From Sowing Providing severe weather conditions such as drought or prolonged cold temperatures don't occur, butternut squash fruits ripen a predictable number of days after sowing. In regular growing conditions, it takes 80 to 100 days after the seed was sown. Drought stresses plants, and may speed up ripening. However, cold weather slows down butternut squash growth, and then fruit may ripen later than expected. Vine Condition When butternut squash fruits are ready for picking, the vine has done its job. It stops growing and begins to die back. If your butternut squash vine stops producing new shoots and leaves, and the existing leaves begin to yellow and wilt, the fruit is probably nearly ripe. Skin Appearance Butternut squash skin is light whitish-green, smooth and shiny while the fruit is growing. As they ripen, the fruits turn deep tan and become dull and dry. Skin Texture A change in skin texture is another sign of ripeness in butternut squash. Slightly soft when the fruit is growing, butternut squash skin becomes very tough when the fruit is ripe. Harvest Time When butternut squash fruit are ready to harvest, cut the stems with pruning shears or a sharp knife.
Cut the squash stems 1 inch from the fruit, and put them in a cool, dark, dry place. Don't allow the fruit to touch each other. Store the squash at 50 degrees Fahrenheit and 50 to 75 percent humidity and it will keep for two to three months. Check the fruit every one or two weeks, and remove and discard any that look diseased or have begun to decay.
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Miss Chen
2018年07月05日
Miss Chen
Whether your lettuce will regrow when you cut it depends on the type of lettuce in question. It also depends on the weather, and when you cut the lettuce within its growth cycle.
Types Lettuce comes in five types: leaf, crisphead, butterhead, romaine (also called cos), and stem. Leaf lettuce will grow back up to three times if you cut it, according to plant expert and nursery owner Rose Marie Nichols McGee. Time Frame Lettuce is temperature sensitive, and quickly turns bitter and goes to seed when temperatures get too hot. Therefore, to successfully trim your leaf lettuces and have them regrow, you must plant early enough in the spring to have time for the lettuce to grow back after you trim it. Check with your local county extension office for the best planting times for your area.
Method Called "cut-and-come-again harvesting" by Rose Marie Nichols McGee and the University of Maryland College of Agricultural and Natural Resources, cut your leaf lettuce with sharp shears when it reaches 6 to 10 inches high. Water and fertilize it to harvest again in two to three weeks. Stagger harvests and seed sowing to have a continual harvest before cool spring turns into hot summer.
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Miss Chen
2018年07月05日
Miss Chen
Green beans are a popular vegetable for the home garden. They grow quickly and require only sun and water. Pole varieties grow between 5 and 10 feet high, according to Cornell University, and require staking. Bush beans are compact and need no support.
Time Frame Bean seeds germinate within 8 to 10 days under optimal conditions. They emerge as a tiny hooked stem with one single lobe and perhaps a cracked seed coat. Within a few days, the first real leaves emerge. Green beans are harvested within 60 to 75 days, depending on the variety. Dried bean varieties may take as long as three or four months to mature, according to Purdue University. Considerations Bean seeds germinate best when soil temperatures are between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. They are slow to germinate when soil temperatures are below 60 F. They are not at all frost hardy, and are planted outdoors when daytime temperatures are above 75 F. They don't transplant well.
Warning Bean seeds are damaged by soaking in water or by being planted in very wet soil. Plant them in warm, moist, but not soggy, soil at a depth of 1 inch beneath the surface.
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Miss Chen
2018年07月03日
Miss Chen
Description: This perennial wildflower is about 1-2' tall. It is unbranched, except near the apex, where the flowerheads occur. The central stem is pale green and more or less covered with white cobwebby hairs. The alternate leaves are up to 6" long and 1" across, becoming slightly smaller as they ascend the stems. Each fern-like leaf is pale to medium green, elliptic in outline, and widest in the middle – however, its structure is either simple-pinnate or double-pinnate and its overlapping leaflets are either simple-pinnate or pinnatifid. The leaves and sometimes their leaflets (when they are simple-pinnate) are upward-angled along their rachises (central stalks), while pinnatifid leaflets and subleaflets are either curled, crinkled, or flat. Like the stems, the leaves and their subdivisions often have fine cobwebby hairs. The leaves are sessile. The upper stems produce flat-headed panicles (compound corymbs) of small flowerheads. Each flowerhead is about ¼" across, consisting of 5 ray florets (their petaloid rays are white, rarely rose or other pastel colors) and a similar number of disk florets that have cream or pale yellow corollas. The petaloid rays are often slightly notched at their tips. The floral bracts (phyllaries) are pale green and lanceolate-oblong; they often have cobwebby hairs. All parts of this plant exude a distinctive aroma that is somewhat soapy and astringent. The blooming period occurs from early to mid-summer and lasts about a month. Each floret is replaced by an achene that is oblong and somewhat flattened; it lacks a tuft of hairs. The root system produces abundant rhizomes, often forming clonal colonies of plants.
Cultivation: The preference is full or partial sun, mesic to dry conditions, and a somewhat heavy clay-loam soil. Range & Habitat: Yarrow is a common plant that has naturalized in all counties of Illinois (see Distribution Map). The variety of Yarrow that occurs in Illinois is probably native to Eurasia, although there is a variety of this plant that is native to western North America. This latter variety tends to be smaller in size and its foliage is more heavily covered with woolly hairs. Habitats include mesic to dry prairies, pastures, fallow fields, grassy waste areas, and edges of paths, yards, or hedges. Disturbed areas are preferred; Yarrow persists in native habitats (e.g., prairies) to a limited extent. Yarrow is often cultivated in flower and herbal gardens, from where it occasionally escapes.
Faunal Associations: The nectar of the flowers attracts many kinds of insects, especially flies and wasps. Among the flies are such visitors as bee flies, Syrphid flies (including drone flies), thick-headed flies, Tachinid flies, flesh flies, Anthomyiid flies, and others. Halictid and other short-tongued bees occasionally visitor the flowers, where they suck nectar and collect pollen. Many species of grasshoppers feed on Yarrow (see Grasshopper Table), as do several aphids, a seed bug, a flower thrips, leaf beetles, and caterpillars of some moths (see Insect Table). Sometimes Mordella spp. (Tumbling Flower Beetles) are found on the flowerheads. Because the foliage of Yarrow has a bitter and biting taste, it is rarely consumed by most mammalian herbivores. However, sheep will eat it when the opportunity arises.
Photographic Location: Judge Webber Park and Meadowbrook Park in Urbana, Illinois. Comments: Among members of the Aster family, the fern-like foliage of Yarrow is rather unusual and it has a distinctive odor. Other members of the Aster family with this kind of foliage include Anthemis spp. (Mayweed), Matricaria spp. (Chamomile), and Tanacetum vulgare (Tansy). Unlike Yarrow, species of Mayweed and Chamomile produce daisy-like flowerheads with long petaloid rays. Tansy is a larger plant with medium to dark green foliage. While its flowerheads have a similar size and structure as compared to those of Yarrow, they are bright yellow and their petaloid rays are even smaller in size or absent.
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