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Miss Chen
2018年06月23日
Miss Chen

10.Hens and Chicks in an Old Metal Basket I found this old metal basket in a second hand store. To create this container garden, I soaked moss in water and then squeezed out the excess moisture. I then lined the basket with the damp moss. I then carefully filled the basket with potting soil, making sure not to disturb the moss liner. Once the basket was filled with soil, I took the hens and chicks out of the nursery pot and broke them up. Planting hens and chicks is incredibly easy, you just need to push them slightly into the soil. Hens and chicks will thrive in full sun to partial sun and like to be protected from the wind. Water them when the soil dries and fertilize occasionally with a diluted liquid fertilizer. I use a fish emulsion, seaweed combination. One of the great things about hens and chicks is that the hens, the larger rosettes, multiply rapidly, sending out chicks, smaller rosettes. You can either leave the chicks, or break them off and easily transplant them.
11.Hens and Chicks in a Vintage Tea Cup I found this tea cup at a yard sale. I carefully drilled a hole in the bottom using a ceramic bit. I then covered the hole with a tiny piece of window screen. I filled the cup with potting soil and tucked the 'purple beauty' and 'red beauty' hens and chicks and houseleeks into the cup, making sure they had contact with the soil and would stay in place.
12.Miniature Succlulent Plant Container Garen This tiny container garden is only about two inches wide and an inch and a half tall. It is packed with hens and chicks and a couple of echeverias.
13.Purse Garden I love using purses to make easy hanging gardens. For this one, I bought an evening bag at a second hand store and crammed it full of succulents.
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Miss Chen
2018年06月23日
Miss Chen

7.Two Small Succulents in a Tiny Pot Even two small succulents in a tiny pot can make a big statement. These succulents, are only about two inches tall and the pot is about one and a half inches tall and two inches wide. What makes this tiny succulent pot really work is the topdressing of gravel - it gives it a finished look and marries the plants to the pot. The plants used in this pot are: Ghost plant, also known as mother of pearl plant or Graptoptalum paraguayense, 'Ghosty' The trailing plant is Calico Kitten, Crassula marginalis, rubra, 'Veriegata'
8.Echeveria Flowers While echeverias are rarely grown for their flowers, they can put on a spectacular display during the summer months. Echeverias are easy to grow succulents and they are spectacular. There are about 150 species of echeveria, with a wide range of colors and textures. Like all succulents, echeverias need fast draining potting soil and will rot if kept too wet. However, they don't like to be too dry either. They prefer bright light, though full sun can scorch them.
9.Succulent Plants in a Strawberry Pot I love how succulent plants look in a strawberry pot. This is a medium sized strawberry pot, and it holds lots of plants. When I brought this pot home from the store and unwrapped it, I realized there were no drainage holes. I am not a good enough gardener to risk trying to any plant, much less a succulents which really don't like to be too wet, without the benefit of drainage holes. So I got out my trusty drill, fitted it with a bit for drilling ceramics and put in several large holes. Planting Strawberry Pot with Succulent Plants Cover Drainage Holes - Use a piece of plastic window screening, paper towel or a coffee filter to cover drainage holes - anything that will keep soil in and let water out. Fill Strawberry Jar with Potting Soil - Make sure to use either a potting mix that is designed specifically for succulents or add perlite or pumice to any good potting soil. Fill your jar, making sure that all the pockets are filled as well and then firm the soil gently. Plant Succulents - Carefully take your plants out of their pots. If there is extra soil, you can gently take some off. Put your largest succulent plants in the top of the strawberry jar, making sure to plant them at the same level they were in their nursery pot. Fill the pockets with smaller succulents. Some succulents, like hens and chicks will root if placed on top of the soil Water Gently - Add water to your strawberry pot so that the soil becomes moist, not wet. You will want to make sure that the pockets get some water too. During the summer, keep the soil moist but not wet. If you live in a cold climate, bring your succulents inside to overwinter them and water only after the soil has dried out. Keep in bright indirect light. Most plants in this container were provided by Costa Farms.
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Miss Chen
2018年06月23日
Miss Chen

4.Succulent Plants in Tea Cup Succulents can look great in almost anything - from a very formal container to one that is quite casual. I put these succulent plants in a tea cup that I got at a yard sale. I bought the whole set for a couple of dollars and then drilled holes in the bottoms of the cups. For succulent plants, good drainage is essential. If you let them sit in water, succulents will quickly rot, so using a fast draining potting mix, and putting holes in your containers is the easiest way to keep your plants healthy. To drill holes in ceramics, you need a special drill bit and some patience. It takes awhile to get through ceramics, and you have to let the bit cool down so that the heat doesn't build up from the friction and shatter your cup. Make sure to put your cup on a firm surface. You can place a rag or flat, thin sponge on a counter, or I like to drill outside, on the ground so I don't have to clean up the dust. It's a good idea to wear safety goggles when doing any drilling, but particularly with ceramics which can shatter. After the holes are drilled, I cut a small piece of plastic window screening and put it over the holes, to keep the soil in and let the water out. You can also use paper towel or a coffee filter. I then fill the cup, almost to the top, with a cacti and succulent potting mix, plant my succulents and gently water, giving enough moisture so that the soil is damp. I then let the soil in the cup settle and the succulent plants take root.
5.Artist's Succulent Pot What makes this succulent pot work so well is the spectacular concrete vessel, made by California artist, Mary Martha Collins. Mary crafts each pot by hand and then applies one of many stunning colors as a patina. This dish style of pot works particularly well with succulents because it is relatively shallow and succulents have a shallow root system. When planting succulents, I use a potting mix designed specifically for cactus and succulents, which I buy at a nursery. I like the strong color of the pot which sets off the interesting colors of the succulent plants. Because of careless over-watering, when I first planted this pot, some of the original plants died. I simply pulled them out and replaced them with new plants. Step-by-step instructions for how to make this succulent garden.
6.Vintage Tea Cup with Mixed Succulent Plants I love stuffing succulents in small containers. This vintage tea cup and saucer was found at a second hand store and cost a dollar. I used a ceramic bit on a drill to put several holes in the bottom of the cup, to insure the good drainage that succulents need. I then filled the cup with succulent and cactus potting mix and then packed it with a mix of succulents. I water it infrequently - letting the soil dry out between waterings - especially in the winter.
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Miss Chen
2018年06月23日
Miss Chen

1.Agave in a Garden Pot Succulent plants make great, easy container garden plants. Succulent are one of my favorite container garden plants. They are low-maintenance, beautiful and they come in stunning colors, many different sizes, textures and shapes. I am somewhat in awe of agaves. They are beautiful, striking and somewhat lethal, given their spikes, sharp tips and potentially toxic sap. Despite their seemingly hostile appearance they are fairly good-natured plants - not difficult to care for and tolerant of cool temperatures. Though they prefer hot, full sun, agaves will tolerate some shade. P. Allen Smith uses agaves to great dramatic affect. Potted in large, dark containers, they punctuate the landscape and add a modern, sculptural sensibility as well as vertical interest.
2.Succulents on the Half Shell These clamshells are packed full of succulent plants. They can be used for table decorations and make great house presents. You can use a mix of succulent plants, or use one type. These are planted with a few different kinds of hens and chicks, and some tiny echeverias. As when planting any succulent, use either a potting soil made specifically for succulents and cacti, or make your own by taking a good quality potting mix and adding either pumice or perlite. Make sure to use a container that either has drainage holes one that you can punch or drill holes in. Drainage is key to keeping your succulents healthy. To care for these miniature container gardens, give them full sun, or if you are in a very hot climate, keep them in partial shade. Do not over-water. During the growing season, keep the soil moist, but not wet. During the winter, when succulents go into dormancy, let the soil dry out between waterings. Hens and chicks are incredibly forgiving plants. They are extremely hardy - most of them can survive in zone 3, and can tolerate poor soil. For Step by step instructions on making clam shell container gardens.
3.Succulents in a Lunchbox You can plant succulents in almost anything. Because of their shallow root structure, you don't need a very deep pot. You do need good drainage though. I took a large nail and hammered so many holes in the bottom of this box, that by the time I was done, it looked like Swiss cheese. Because the metal is pretty thin, I made sure to punch the holes with the metal sitting directly on the ground, so it wouldn't bend the box. After I punched the holes, I lined the box with plastic also with holes, so it wouldn't rust as quickly. I then filled it with a potting mix specifically designed for cacti and succulents. I packed the box full of plants, putting the ones that I knew would drape, near the edges, and the larger plants near the back. The box sits in full sun, and I water it enough to keep the soil moist, but not wet. I'll bring it inside in the late fall and keep it in bright, indirect light. In the winter I'll let the soil dry out completely between waterings.
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Miss Chen
2018年06月21日
Miss Chen
Description: This perennial plant is ¾–2½' long. It either floats on water or sprawls across the ground. The stems are light green to red (often the latter), glabrous to sparsely pubescent, and terete. Alternate leaves along these stems are 1¼–3" long and ½–1" across; they are elliptic, oblong-elliptic, oblanceolate, or oblong-oblanceolate in shape and smooth along their margins. The leaves are usually glossy green in appearance, although sometimes they develop patches of red or yellow. The upper leaf surface is glabrous, while the lower leaf surface is glabrous to sparsely pubescent. The leaf bases taper gradually into slender petioles about ½–2" long. Individual flowers develop from the axils of the middle to upper leaves on erect to semi-erect pedicels about 1–3" long. Each flower is about 1" across, consisting of 5 yellow petals, 5 light green sepals, 10 yellow stamens, and a narrowly cylindrical pistil with a single style. The petals are obovate in shape with pale pinnate nerves, while the smaller sepals are lanceolate. Compared to the size of the flower, both the stamens and style are relatively short. Between the apex of the pedicel and the bottom of the pistil, there is a pair of tiny bractlets (about 1.0–1.5 mm. in length). The blooming period occurs from late spring to early fall, lasting several months. The flowers are diurnal. Afterwards, the flowers are replaced by cylindrical seed capsules about 1–1½" long. Each seed capsule has 5 narrow cells, and each cell contains a row of seeds. The seeds are enclosed in chunky outer coatings (endocarps); they are about 1.0-1.5 mm. in length. The root system is fibrous and fleshy. When the nodes of the stems lie on wet ground, they are capable of developing new fibrous roots, from which new plants are produced vegetatively. Sometimes the root system produces small bladders that keep individual plants more buoyant in the water. This plant often forms large colonies. Cultivation: The preference is full sun, wet conditions, and muddy soil, although this plant can adapt to shallow water as a floating aquatic. Creeping Water Primrose (Ludwigia peploides glabrescens) can spread aggressively in shallow wetlands and muddy areas. It is potentially invasive.
Range & Habitat: Creeping Water Primrose is locally common and native to southern Illinois, while in the rest of the state it is uncommon and probably adventive in most areas (see Distribution Map). This species is slowly spreading northward. Habitats include borders of ponds, shallow areas of lakes, sluggish streams, swamps, marshes, and ditches. In some of these habitats, Creeping Water Primrose can become the dominant shoreline plant, forming large colonies. Faunal Associations: The flowers are cross-pollinated primarily by bees, including honeybees, digger bees (Eucerine), and Halictid bees. Other visitors, such as flies and skippers, are less effective at cross-pollination. These insects obtain nectar and/or pollen from the flowers. Some insects feed destructively on Creeping Water Primrose. This includes the flea beetles, Altica litigata and Lysathia ludoviciana, and a leafhopper, Draeculacephala inscripta. The Mallard and possibly other ducks feed on the seed capsules. Because of the large dense colonies that this plant often forms, it provides good cover along shorelines for various insects, frogs, and other wetland wildlife.
Photographic Location: Muddy shore of a pond in southern Illinois. Comments: Creeping Water Primrose has showy flowers and attractive foliage. Unfortunately, it is sometimes too aggressive for its own good. It can be distinguished from other Ludwigia spp. by its larger 5-petaled flowers and sprawling semi-aquatic habit. Across its range in the United States and tropical America, different varieties of this species have been described, although only var. glabrescens has been found in Illinois. This variety can be distinguished by its more glabrous foliage. Another scientific name of this wetland plant is Jussiaea repens glabrescens, while an alternative common name is Creeping Primrose Willow.
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Miss Chen
2018年06月21日
Miss Chen
Description: This is a perennial wildflower about 1½-3½' tall that branches occasionally. The stems are light green, red, brown, or nearly white; they are terete and glabrous (except for an uncommon variety with pubescent stems). The alternate leaves are 1¼-4" long and ¼-¾" across; they are narrowly lanceolate or elliptic, smooth along their margins; sometimes their margins are slightly ciliate or they are tinted red. The leaves are light to medium green and glabrous (except for an uncommon variety with pubescent leaves). The leaves are sessile or they have short petioles (less than ½" in length). Leaf venation is pinnate. Along the upper half of each plant, solitary flowers develop from the axils of the leaves on short pedicels (about 1/8" in length). Each flower is ½-¾" across, consisting of 4 yellow petals, 4 light green sepals, 4 short stamens, and a pistil with a short style. The tip of the style is light green and globular. The petals are oval to obovate in shape, while the sepals are ovate-cordate in shape; both petals and sepals are about the same length. The sepals are glabrous and smooth along their margins; sometimes their margins are slightly ciliate or tinted red. The blooming period occurs during the summer for about 2 months. Each flower remains intact for only a single day; the petals are early-deciduous andDistribution Map become detached when they are exposed to even minor disturbance. Later in the year, the flowers are replaced by seed capsules (about ¼" in length) with a cubic shape that turn brown at maturity. The tiny seeds are released from each capsule by a small pore at its apex. These capsules can float on water or be blown about by the wind, distributing the seeds to new areas. Individual seeds are 0.5-1.0 mm. in length and narrowly ellipsoid in shape. The root system is fleshy and fibrous. Cultivation: The preference is full to partial sun, wet to moist conditions, and an acidic sandy soil, although other soil types are tolerated. Range & Habitat: The native Seedbox is occasional in most areas of Illinois, except in parts of central and northern Illinois, where it is either uncommon, rare, or absent. Habitats include openings in floodplain woodlands, sandy swamps, acidic gravelly seeps, low areas along streams and ponds, wet prairies, wet sand prairies, and roadside ditches. The pubescent variety of Seedbox, Ludwigia alternifolia pubescens, occurs in southern Illinois, where it is uncommon. Faunal Associations: According to Robertson (1929), the flowers of Seedbox are visited primarily by bees, including Halictid bees (Augochlorella spp., Halictus spp., & Lasioglossum spp.) and leaf-cutting bees (Megachile spp.); the bees suck nectar or collect pollen from the flowers. Less common floral visitors include Sphecid wasps, small butterflies, beetles, and other insects. Some insects also feed on the foliage and other parts of Seedbox. These species include the leaf beetle Colaspis suggona, the flea beetle Altica litigata, and caterpillars of the moth Eudryas unio (Pearly Wood Nymph). White-Tailed Deer occasionally browse on the foliage during the summer. Photographic Location: Edge of a sandy swamp at the Heron Boardwalk in Vermilion County, Illinois.
Comments: Seedbox has showier flowers than most Ludwigia spp., and its cubic seed capsules have a distinct appearance. As a result, it is fairly easily to identify when either the flowers or seed capsules are present. Species in this genus are usually found in wetlands. Species in a related genus of the Evening Primrose family, Epilobium spp. (Willow-Herbs), have similar foliage and prefer similar habitats. They can be distinguished from Ludwigia spp. by their narrowly cylindrical seedpods and the presence of tufts of hair on their seeds.
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Miss Chen
2018年06月21日
Miss Chen
Description: This perennial plant is 1-4' tall. It is erect and usually remains unbranched. The central stem is light to medium green, terete or angular, and glabrous to sparsely hairy. The alternate leaves are up to 5" long and 2" wide; they are oblanceolate, obovate, ovate, or broadly elliptic in shape, and their margins are serrated. The lower leaves clasp the central stem, while the upper leaves are sessile. The upper surfaces of leaves are medium to dark green and sparingly covered with short hairs. The central stem terminates in a spike-like raceme of flowers about ½-2' long. The flowers are 1-1½" long, angled upward, and densely distributed along the raceme. Each flower has a blue-violet corolla (rarely white) that is narrowly bell-shaped (campanulate) and 2-lipped. The upper lip has 2 slender erect lobes that curve slightly inward or backward, while the lower lip has 3 descending lobes that are oblong-lanceolate. Near the throat of the flower at the base of the lower lobes, there is a pair of small white patches. The green calyx is deeply divided into 5 linear-lanceolate teeth; it is conspicuously hairy. The calyx teeth are long and spreading. The blooming period occurs from late summer into fall, lasting about 2 months. Afterwards, the flowers are replaced by capsules containing small seeds. These seeds are probably distributed by wind or water to some extent. The root system consists of a central taproot, fromDistribution Map which occasional basal offshoots are produced. Cultivation: The preference is wet to moist soil and partial sun. Full sun is tolerated if the soil is consistently moist, and light shade is also acceptable. The soil should be fertile and loamy. This plant withstands occasional flooding, but it will become muddy and ragged-looking if it receives too much abuse. The small seeds require light to germinate. Great Blue Lobelia can be highly variable in height, depending on environmental conditions and its stage of development. Range & Habitat: The native Great Blue Lobelia occurs throughout Illinois, except for a few counties in southern Illinois. It is occasional to locally common. Typical habitats include moist black soil prairies, soggy meadows near rivers, low areas along rivers and ponds, floodplain and bottomland woodlands, woodland borders, bottoms of sandstone canyons along streams, swamps, fens, gravelly seeps and springs, ditches, and moist areas of pastures. Great Blue Lobelia can be found in both disturbed areas and high quality habitats. Faunal Associations: The nectar and pollen of the flowers attract primarily bumblebees and other long-tongued bees (Anthophora spp., Melissodes spp., Svastra spp.). Less common visitors include the Ruby-Throated Hummingbird, large butterflies, and Halictid bees. The Halictid bees collect pollen only and they are non-pollinating. The caterpillars of a moth, Enigmogramma basigera (Pink-washed Looper Moth), feed on the foliage of Great Blue Lobelia (Schweitzer & Roberts, 2007). Most mammalian herbivores don't eat this plant because the foliage contains several toxic alkaloids, chief among them being lobeline and lobelanine. These toxic substances produce symptoms that resemble nicotine poisoning. However, it has been reported that deer occasionally eat this plant, perhaps enjoying greater immunity to these toxic substances than other animals. The seeds are too small to be of much value to birds. Photographic Location: The photographs were taken at a garden of the Anita Purves Nature Center in Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: Great Blue Lobelia is a lovely plant that produces some welcome diversity with its violet-blue flowers during late summer or fall, when forbs with yellow flowers are typically dominant. Unfortunately, its value to wildlife is rather limited. Among the Lobelia spp. with bluish flowers in Illinois, Great Blue Lobelia has the largest flowers and they are usually a more deep shade of blue-violet, making it easy to identify.
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Miss Chen
2018年06月21日
Miss Chen
Description: This perennial wildflower is ½-1½' tall and either branched or unbranched. The slender stem(s) is light green to purple. Alternate leaves about ½-2" long and 1-5 mm. across occur along the stem(s). The leaves are light to medium green, linear to linear-oblong in shape, and usually smooth along their margins. The central stem and any lateral stems terminate in racemes of flowers; the flowers are distributed sparsely along the rachis of each raceme. Each flower is ¼-½" across, consisting of a 2-lipped tubular corolla that is light blue (rarely white), a bell-shaped (campanulate) calyx with 5 slender teeth that are light green to purple, 5 stamens, and a 2-celled ovary with a single style. The stamens tightly surround the style. The upper lip of the corolla is divided into 2 small narrow lobes, while the lower lip is divided into 3 large lobes. At the base of the corolla's lower lip, there is a conspicuous patch of white; sometimes this patch becomes yellow along its upper boundary near the throat of the corolla. The corolla is hairless throughout, while sometimes the bottom of the calyx is pubescent. The slender pedicels of the flowers are ¼-1" long; they are light green to purple and either glabrous or minutely pubescent. Toward the middle of each pedicel there is a tiny linear bractlet; at the base of each pedicel there is a linear bract that is about the same length as the pedicel. The blooming period occurs from mid-summer to early fall and lasts about 1 month. Afterwards, the flowers are replaced by seed capsules about 4 mm. across; each capsule splits open at its apex to release numerous tiny seeds that are narrowly oblongoid and compressed (somewhat flattened) in shape. The seeds are small enough to be blown about by the wind or transported by water. The root system is shallow and fibrous. Cultivation: The preference is full sun, wet to consistently moist conditions, and soil that is sandy to sandy-peaty and calcareous. Episodic periods of shallow water are tolerated. Range & Habitat: The native Kalm's Lobelia occurs in northern Illinois, where it is uncommon (see Distribution Map). Illinois lies along the southern range limit of this species. Habitats include grassy fens, wet sandy meadows, borders of interdunal swales, low areas along springs, and bogs. This conservative species is found in high quality wetlands where the original flora remains intact.
Faunal Associations: Very little is known about floral-faunal relationships for this species. The flowers are probably cross-pollinated by various bees and small butterflies. Like other Lobelia spp., Kalm's Lobelia has an acrid sap that is more or less toxic to mammalian herbivores. Photographic Location: A fen in NE Illinois. The photographs were taken by Lisa Culp, Copyright © 2011. Comments: This is one of the less common Lobelia species in Illinois. Kalm's Lobelia has a delicate beauty that derives from its pastel blue flowers and slender foliage. It is somewhat similar in appearance to Pale-Spiked Lobelia (Lobelia spicata), but its leaves are more narrow (less than ¼" across). Other Lobelia species in the state also have wider leaves, and some species have larger flowers. Another common name of Lobelia kalmii is Brook Lobelia.
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Miss Chen
2018年06月21日
Miss Chen
Description: This herbaceous perennial plant is usually unbranched and 2–3½' tall. The central stem is light green, terete, and sparingly to densely hairy. The alternate leaves are up 6" long and 1½" across, but they are typically about one-half of this maximum size. The rough-textured leaves are lanceolate in shape and coarsely serrated along their margins; they have a tendency to curl upward along their central veins. The lower leaves have short petioles, while the upper ones are sessile. The undersides of leaves usually have fine hairs. The central stem terminates in a spike-like raceme of showy red flowers (rarely white). This raceme is about ½–1½' long. The red corolla of each flower has a narrow tubular structure that is upright and terminates in grayish white reproductive organs; these organs nod downward. Beneath this are 2 narrow lateral lobes and a lower lip that is 3-lobed. The green calyx is deeply divided into 5 linear teeth that spread outward. The flowers are held at an upward angle in relation to the stem; they are about 1–1½" long and ¾–1" across. The blooming period occurs from late summer to early fall, lasting about 1–1½ months. There is no floral scent. The small seeds can be carried aloft by the wind. The root system consists of a taproot.
Cultivation: The preference is light shade to full sun, and wet to moist conditions. Cardinal Flower adapts to loam, sandy loam, or gravelly soil; the soil should contain some organic matter to retain moisture. This plant doesn't like to dry out and it has a reputation of being temperamental and short-lived. It is easier to establish this plant using transplants, as the seeds are quite small and the young seedlings are rather fragile.
Range & Habitat: The native Cardinal Flower has been observed in most counties of Illinois; it is occasional to locally common in southern Illinois, while in northern and central Illinois it tends to be less common or absent (see Distribution Map). Habitats include wet prairies, prairie swales, openings in floodplain and bottomland woodlands, soggy meadows along rivers and streams, gravelly seeps and springs, borders of ponds, edges of small marshes, and ditches. These habitats include both sandy and non-sandy areas. Cardinal Flower is often found in sunny areas near sources of water, or it is found in open woodland areas where moist depressions occur.
Faunal Associations: The nectar of the flowers attracts the Ruby-Throated Hummingbird and various Swallowtail butterflies, including such species as Papilio polyxenes asterias (Black Swallowtail), Papilio troilus (Spicebush Swallowtail), and Battus philenor (Pipevine Swallowtail). Sometimes the larger bumblebees will steal nectar through slits in the tubular corolla. Halictid bees sometimes gather pollen, but they are ineffective at pollination. The larvae of a polyphagous fly, Metopomyza scutellata, mine the leaves of Cardinal Flower. The caterpillars of a moth, Enigmogramma basigera (Pink-washed Looper Moth), also feed on the leaves (Schweitzer & Roberts, 2007). The seeds are too small to be of much interest to birds. Mammalian herbivores usually don't consume this plant because of the toxic white latex in the foliage. While it's a beautiful plant, the ecological value of Cardinal Flower to wildlife is relatively low. Photographic Location: Most of the photographs were taken by the webmaster at Meadowbrook Park in Urbana, Illinois; the plants were growing in a prairie swale. The photograph of a Cardinal Plant with rare white flowers was taken by Paul Showers (Copyright © 2013) in northeast Illinois.
Comments: The Cardinal Flower has striking red flowers that remind me of the Northern Cardinal and other exotic birds. Red is an unusual color in wildflowers – an attribute that it shares with Silene regia (Royal Catchfly) and Silene virginica (Fire Pink). Plants with red flowers typically attract hummingbirds; sometimes they also attract Swallowtail butterflies because their compound eyes, unlike those of bees, can detect the color red. The Cardinal Flower is often sold at garden centers, but such plants are often hybrids or special cultivars. One such hybrid is Lobelia X speciosa, which is a genetic cross of Lobelia cardinalis and Lobelia siphilitica (Great Blue Lobelia). This hybrid can naturalize in the wild, and resembles the former species to a greater extent than the latter. Its flowers are often magenta or deep rose, rather than brilliant red.
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Miss Chen
2018年06月20日
Miss Chen
Broccoli (Brassica oleracea var. italica) and cauliflower (Brassica oleracea) grow during the cool season, growing from seed to harvest size in as little as 65 days. Although both plants can survive a freeze, extended periods of cold can slow growth or damage the plants. Waiting to plant until the temperatures are right for the best growth, and providing some protection from extreme cold, keeps the plants healthy and productive.
The Big Freeze Broccoli and cauliflower can usually survive temperatures as low as 26 degrees Fahrenheit with only minor damage to the leaves. They may survive even lower temperatures if they are acclimated, but usually anything below 26 F will kill the plants if the weather was warmer leading up to the cold snap. Temperatures between 31 and 33 F rarely cause any damage to broccoli or cauliflower, although growth may slow if temperatures remain near or below freezing for an extended period. A Happy Medium Cauliflower and broccoli grow best between 65 and 80 F. Broccoli grows well when planted in late winter or early spring for an early summer harvest, or in late summer or fall for a late fall or early winter harvest. Cauliflower is more heat sensitive, so it grows better when planted in mid- to late-summer for a fall harvest. Temperatures above 80 F can cause both broccoli and cauliflower to slow their growth, or they may go to seed prematurely without forming large heads. Hardening Off Taking a week to harden off new broccoli or cauliflower transplants in spring makes them better able to survive freezing temperatures. Seedlings started indoors are used to warmer temperatures, so a cold snap in the garden is more likely to damage them if they aren't acclimated. Set the seedlings outside in a protected area, such as on a covered patio, seven days before transplanting. Leave the seedlings outside for only four hours the first day, but gradually increase the time outdoors each day until they stay out all day and night by the final day in the hardening off period. If a hard freeze is expected, bring the seedlings indoors and resume hardening off when the temperatures rise.
Protection Pointers If your broccoli or cauliflower plants are recently transplanted, or if temperatures below 31 F are expected, you can provide protection to prevent freeze damage or plant death. Planting in a cold frame works, because you can close the glass lid on the frame during freezes and then reopen it when the temperature inside the frame rises above 60 F. For a brief cold snap, place an upturned pot over the plants or mulch around the plants with straw to provide some insulation.
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