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Miss Chen
2018年07月01日
Miss Chen
If you're interested in growing potatoes (Solanum tuberosum) in your home garden, don't overlook a variety called Yukon Gold, which yields yellow-fleshed potatoes in the early to middle part of the season. Yukon Gold potatoes are high in vitamin A, which gives them their colorful flesh, and are good for eating unpeeled because they have extra-thin skins. They grow as annuals in all parts of the United States and are easy-to-grow plants, needing only basic care while growing and a bit of special attention at harvest time.
Starting Plants Like most varieties, Yukon Gold potatoes can be started from seed potatoes, which are small tubers grown during the previous season. You can also start plants from pieces of larger potatoes, as long as each piece you plant has at least one bud, or "eye," at its surface. Before planting, allow cut pieces to dry, or heal, for seven to 10 days at 65 degrees Fahrenheit and dust cut surfaces with a powdered fungicide labeled for use on potato pieces; do this in a wind-protected spot and wear gloves to protect your hands. Plant seed potatoes or pieces in early spring, but wait until the soil has warmed to 40 degrees Fahrenheit because Yukon Gold potatoes are a bit slow to sprout, and planting in soil that's too cool can promote growth of fungus. Soil, Sun and Water Yukon Gold potatoes grow best in well-drained soil that's loose and easily dug. If your soil is dense and heavy, and compacts easily, amend it with organic matter such as compost to loosen it while also improving fertility. Space potato pieces 10 to 15 inches apart, setting them in a trench at a depth of 6 inches; deep planting prevents tubers from jutting out of the soil as they grow. For best results, choose a sunny site where plants get at least six hours of sun each day. Plants need regular, consistent moisture during the period of greatest growth, early summer to midsummer; they do best when watered well every two or three days, to reach a total of 1 inch of water weekly, including rain; later in the season, when green tops begin to die back, avoid fungal problems by watering only when soil is dry to the touch. Fertilizing and Hilling Because potatoes form underground, you'll need to bury the plants' tops to ensure that tubers remain covered -- a process called hilling. When plants are about 8 inches tall, cover the lower half of the plants with soil or straw, and repeat this about three weeks later. Fertilizing Yukon Gold potatoes helps ensure a good harvest, starting when you plant seed potatoes or potato pieces. Scatter fertilizer into a small trench about 2 or 3 inches to the side of the planting row, preventing contact of fertilizer with the seed potatoes or pieces because it can burn tender roots. Use about 3 pounds of a granular, 8-16-16 formula for each 100 square feet of planted area. Once plants are about 6 inches tall, repeat fertilization by broadcasting about 2 pounds of the same formula per 100 square feet, applying it in a band about 10 inches away from the plants.
Problems and Harvest Yukon Gold potatoes can attract Colorado potato beetles, yellow and brown striped, hard-shelled insects; control these pests by hand-picking. Aphids -- small, soft-bodied greenish-yellow pests -- might also be a problem; wash plants with a strong water stream early on sunny days to remove and destroy them. Fungal problems such as blight, which might cause limp, blackened leaves and stems, can be prevented by purchasing seed potatoes certified free of the disease. Planting in an area with good air circulation and removing debris regularly from under the plants also keeps down fungus. Yukon Gold potatoes are ready to harvest about 50 days after planting, once vines begin dying back and foliage yellows. Use a fork to lift potatoes gently, then shake off loose dirt, cover tubers with paper or towels and let them dry in a cool, dark place for a few days; store them in a cool spot at 50 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit.
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Miss Chen
2018年07月01日
Miss Chen
Growing broccoli in a greenhouse gives you the ability to enjoy fresh broccoli year round. Although a greenhouse offers an enclosed environment in which to grow a variety of seasonal plants, if you live in an area with wide temperature swings, you must still control the temperature inside the greenhouse. Cold nights, for instance, can frostbite plants in an unheated greenhouse, wasting your hard work.
Step 1 Install adequate central heating and cooling in the greenhouse, knowing that greenhouses get only 25 percent of their heat from the sun and require additional heating-and-cooling regulation in regions with moderate to extreme swings in temperature. Step 2 Install two fans, one facing inward, serving as air input and one facing outward, serving as air output (exhaust). Fans help ventillate the air and introduce fresh amounts of carbon dioxide. For small greenhouses of 200 to 600 square feet, select fans capable of moving 5,000 cubic feet of air, and for larger greenhouses of 600 to 1,200 square feet, select fans capable of moving 12,000 cubic feet of air. Step 3 Install wooden crates measuring a minimum of 3 feet wide per row and at least 2 feet deep. Step 4 Spread fertilized soil into the crates to a depth of 23 inches to 24 inches. The soil settles a little, so you should fill the crates as full as possible. Step 5 Plant the broccoli seeds 1 inch deep and about 15 inches to 24 inches apart in a layer of starter fertilizer that offers the broccoli seeds the required nutrients they need to encourage fast growth.
Step 6 Water the soil as the soil becomes dry to the touch, but when the broccoli sprouts, do not water the actual "heads"; water the stalks at their bases. Watering the brocolli heads encourages inedible blossoms. Step 7 Allow the plant to grow 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 months. Step 8 Harvest the plants by snipping them off beneath the head allowing for 5 inches to 6 inches of stalk.
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Miss Chen
2018年07月01日
Miss Chen
The small but mighty pea is a powerhouse of protein packed with disease-reducing vitamins and belly-filling proteins. Dried peas and green peas are basically derived from the same plant and hold the same characteristics, but to a point. They are literally like two peas in a pod with a few minor differences.
Pea School Although they may seem a separate type of food from the other dried items in your pantry, peas are in the same family as beans and legumes. They are usually considered separate because of their shape. Peas are spherical, which sets the legumes apart from their legume cousins. To dry peas, they are harvested in the pod when they have reached full maturity, then dried. When peas are fully dried, they split apart at the seam naturally. The Pea Differential The cool weather vegetable comes in many varieties. Green peas, snap peas and snow or sugar snap peas are the most common and are available seasonally. Shucking peas is the best way to get the freshest peas. Fresh, juicy and sweet, they are plump and perfect for munching straight from the pod. Steamed fresh peas have a bit of bite when cooked properly, and are a far cry from the variety that becomes dried peas. Most peas that are sold fresh can be dried, while those that are sold dried aren't usually sold fresh. The fresh peas you find at the grocery store and farmer's market are not the same as those that are harvested for their mature seeds and then dried. It can take up to two weeks to have the mature pea pods completely dry for processing. Mature seeds are higher in starch and make a better dried pea. Dried peas are built to last and can be stored for years in a cool, dry and preferably dark space. Fresh peas can only be kept cool and crisp in the refrigerator for just a few days before they begin to lose their firm, fibrous structure. Dried peas need to be rehydrated before being consumed.
Pea Health Although high in fiber, dried peas also offer protein, iron, vitamin C and B vitamins. They provide more than 65 percent of the daily value for fiber. The isoflavones in dried peas are phytonutrients, which have been linked to a reduction in breast and prostate cancer risks. Peas are also part of a heart-healthy diet, lowering the risk of heart disease by more than 80 percent.
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Miss Chen
2018年07月01日
Miss Chen
Colorado vegetable gardening success depends, in part, on which part of the state you live in. Gardeners on the Western Slope, near Grand Junction, can grow almost any vegetable successfully, while those living in the mountains face the challenges of poor soil and a short growing season. Gardeners in the Denver metro area can grow most crops successfully, with a few caveats: amend the soil thoroughly with compost and manure, use row covers and cloches to extend the growing season and expect to water the garden two to three times per week.
Greens Colorado's cool, wet springs are ideal for growing greens such as lettuce, spinach, kale and broccoli. Plant these crops between mid-March and late-April, depending on where you live, because they bolt and run to seed as soon as the weather gets hot. Many of these crops turn bitter during dry weather so monitor the soil carefully, especially if you have the sandy soil that's common east of Denver. Root Vegetables Plant potatoes, carrots and fennel from mid-to-late April for a late summer crop. If you have clay soils, try using raised beds or plant small varieties. The heavy soils found throughout much of the Front Range stunt the growth of long carrots, causing them to be deformed or crooked. Shorter varieties grow successfully, though. Beans Beans grow beautifully in Colorado's warm, dry climate. They are rarely bothered by pests or disease and mature long before the first fall frost. Beans will also come back if hit by a light hailstorm, unlike many garden vegetables. Plant either row or bush beans after the last expected frost, which is typically mid-May, according to the Colorado State University Extension. Tomatoes, Peppers and Eggplants Tomatoes, peppers and eggplant all grow well in Colorado, although most gardeners find that chile peppers are more successful than bell peppers in Colorado's dry climate. Plant these heat-loving crops two to three weeks after the last expected frost, or use cloches and row covers to keep them warm. Monitor the soil moisture carefully to avoid blossom end rot or cracked skins from over watering. Heirloom varieties that might succumb to disease in more humid regions grow easily in Colorado.
Squash Even the most inexperienced gardener can grow zucchini in Colorado. In fact, gardeners are often tired of zucchini long before it is done producing. Pumpkins also grow well in Colorado's dry climate and make decorative accents for fall. Plant both from seed after the last expected frost and give them plenty of room to grow.
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Miss Chen
2018年06月30日
Miss Chen
Aloe vera is commonly grown as a houseplant and gained favor because the gel from its leaves makes a soothing skin salve, although some people are actually irritated by the gel. There are over 300 species of Aloe vera, but the one most commonly grown as a houseplant is Aloe barbadensis. It has thick, succulent leaves that are plumped up with a watery gel. The leaves grow from the base of the plant, in a rosette, and have jagged edges with flexible spines.
The spiky flowers appear on tall stalks, in shades of yellow, orange and red. Young plants don’t generally flower and aloe grown as a houseplant can take years to produce a flower stalk. Botanical Name Aloe barbadensis Common Name Aloe Vera Hardiness Zones Aloe is only hardy in U.S.D.A. Hardiness Zones: 9 - 11, but it is often grown as a houseplant. In colder zones, you can grow potted aloe vera outdoors for the summer and bring it indoors for the winter. Mature Plant Size Plants grow to approximately 2 ft. x 2 ft. Potted plants don't get as large as plants grown in the ground. Sun Exposure Outdoors:Full Sun / Partial Shade. Indoors:Bright Light. Too much hot sun can burn the leaves and give the plant a scraggly appearance. Bloom Period Blooming occurs in late spring/early summer. Plants need to be quite mature to begin blooming and may not bloom every year if the leaves are being harvested. Design Tips for Aloe Vera Plants Since aloe vera needs a sandy or gravelly soil, when grown outdoors it is best used with other succulents with similar needs.
To blend aloe into a border planting, pot it separately and use as a focal point. Raising the pot to eye level will make it more prominent. Potted aloe grows well on decks and patios where it is handy for emergency burns and bites. Suggested Aloe Vera Varieties Most of the plants for sale in greenhouses are hybrids. Just look for one that has plump, firm leaves with few brown tips. A small plant growing as a tight rosette will adapt best to being potted indoors. If you find a plant that is splitting with lots of offshoots, replant the offshoots as suggested below in Propagating Aloe Vera. Aloe Vera Growing Tips Growing Aloe Outdoors: Although aloe can handle a brief frost, it can only be successfully grown outdoors in USDA Zones 9 and above. Here the difficulty is controlling water. Aloe can go for months without water, but too much rainfall will rot the roots. Do not give the plants any supplemental water during the rainy season. Most aloes go dormant in the winter and won’t require any water at all, provided they received sufficient water during the growing season. If your climate is rainy during the winter, consider planting your aloe in gravel or stones. They will allow the water to run off. Growing Potted Aloe Vera, Indoors or Out: Soil - Soil needs to be well-draining. In its natural habitat, Aloe generally grows on slopes so that good drainage is guaranteed. To ensure drainage in a pot, you can use a special cactus potting soil or mix in some perlite or coarse sand and make your own mix. Water: Aloe can handle drought well, but prefers to be watered regularly, allowing the soil to dry out completely between waterings. If the plant is left dry too long, the leaves will shrivel and pucker slightly. They will recover when watered, but prolonged stress, either too much drought or too much water, will cause the leaves to yellow and die. Caring for Your Aloe Vera Plant Fertilizer: Aloe vera does not require a high soil fertility. Feeding once a year, in the spring, with a houseplant fertilizer should be sufficient. Propagating Aloe Vera: Aloe vera can be propagated by seed or by removing and potting the offsets that develop at the base of the plant. Break off each offshoot, making sure there are some roots attached to each piece, and replant the offshoots separately. Repotting Aloe Vera: Aloe Vera has a rather shallow root system that likes to spread out close to the surface. As the plant grows and needs repotting, move up to a wider pot, rather than a deeper one. Pests & Diseases There are not many pests or problems that affect aloe era. Rotting is the most common problem with aloe vera. Pay attention to the wilting of the leaves and water or withhold water accordingly. Ants are attracted to the center of aloe vera plants. They are known to carry their aphid prey in there with them and the excess moisture can lead to rotting. Using Aloe Medicinally To use as a skin salve, remove a lower leaf and slice or break it open. Rub the inside gel onto the skin. For more information about the medicinal uses and effects of aloe vera gel read Health Benefits of Aloe Vera.
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Miss Chen
2018年06月30日
Miss Chen
Has your four-year-old ever looked at you begrudgingly over a plate of veggies, and said, “I wish there was an ice cream plant.”? Well, move over parsnips and eggplant, because with some orchid-growing know-how, you can cultivate one of the most aromatic and intoxicating spices on earth for ice cream, coffee drinks, and desserts.
The vanilla orchid is not an easy plant to grow for beginners. Some previous success with orchid growing is beneficial. A greenhouse is also highly desirable, especially for gardeners who don't live in a frost-free climate. An Ancient Delicacy How lucky were the ancient Aztec people of Mexico? Not only were they the first to discover the delights of cocoa, they also were the first to harvest the only edible produced by the family Orchidaceae. It's amazing that the secrets of the pods from the genus Vanilla planifolia were ever discovered, as the fresh pods bear no flavor. Only a careful process of steaming and fermentation release the perfumed essence contained within the seeds. Like many orchids, the vanilla bean orchid is an epiphyte, and lives on a host tree without drawing nutrients from it. The vine clambers up to the treetops in a zigzag fashion, exhibiting long succulent lance-shaped leaves. Each blooming branch will bear one to two dozen creamy blooms, for a total of several hundred flowers on a mature vine. Put Your Greenhouse to Use The vanilla orchid, like most orchids, grows best in bright filtered shade and high humidity. Think of the native jungle habitat of the vanilla orchid; you must replicate this as well as possible using a combination of temperature controls and pampering mists and irrigation. Ideal temperatures are between 60-70 degrees F at night, and 80-95 degrees F during the day. The plants are not frost tolerant, which means those who don't live in a tropical climate must use a greenhouse to rear the plants. In its native habitat, a mature vanilla orchid vine can grow to 300 feet or greater. However, you can keep your vine to a manageable 20 to 30 feet in greenhouse conditions. Training the vine laterally instead of straight up allows you to get more vine in a smaller space. Planting the Vanilla Orchid Start your vanilla orchid in a mixture of half bark and half potting mix. This is slightly more dense and heavy than most orchid growing media. Your cutting or small starter plant will need this combination of excellent drainage and nutrients to nourish the plant while the vine develops. After the vine develops its epiphytic roots, it will no longer depend on the roots in the potting mix. Patience is a requirement for those who wish to harvest vanilla pods, as the plants take anywhere from three to five years from cuttings to flower production.
Vanilla Plant Care Wherever you grow your vanilla orchid, you must provide this large vine with a sturdy support. In tropical climates, a large tree makes an ideal support. If you grow your vine in a conservatory or greenhouse, a solid wood trellis can support the plant. Don’t bother with fancy latticework; a simple lumber structure is stronger and will soon be obscured by the vine. Fertilize your vanilla orchid every two weeks during the spring and summer with an orchid fertilizer. Mist your plant regularly and make every effort to keep an 80% humidity level. Hand-pollinate the flowers in the late morning with a chopstick. Remove pollen from the stamen of one flower and place it on the stigma of another flower. If you are able to allow pollinating insects access to your greenhouse, your chances of a successful pollination may increase. Flowers that have pollinated will wither on the vine rather than falling off within a day. Small green pods will form within a week, eventually elongating into six-inch pods, and are ready to harvest in 9-10 months. Harvesting Your Vanilla Pods If pollination is successful, your three-year-old vanilla orchid will produce green bean-like pods from October through March. Good quality pods should be at least six inches long. The curing process is labor-intensive, and involves sweating and drying, which contributes to the premium price of vanilla beans sold in markets. Every day for six weeks, you must wrap the beans in a blanket at night to facilitate moisture condensation on the pods. During the day, place the beans on trays in the sun, or under a heat lamp indoors. Following this sweating process, you should dry the now brown and shriveled pods in a dark, dry place for an additional three months. You can store the cured beans in an air tight container indefinitely.
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Miss Chen
2018年06月30日
Miss Chen
The Aeonium genus includes about 35 succulent plants, mostly hailing from the Canary Islands. Members of the Crassulaceae family, these generally follow the growth recommendations for most succulents: lots of light, perfect drainage, and not too much water. Like other succulents, these are also highly prized for their beautiful foliage. On the most popular variety, the leaves are held on a nearly bare branch and grow in attractive rosettes that turn a deep, burgundy red in the summer time.
They are not especially common in cultivation, and if do see one, it's likely to be an immature plant. When they are young, it's easy to confuse Aeoniums with the closely related Echeverias, which are much more common in the nursery trade. It's easier, however, to tell adult plants with adequate light as the most popular species offer their spectacular leaf coloring. Growing Conditions Light: They like plenty of bright light, but dislike intense direct light, especially in the summer. These plants are not very tolerant of heat, so try to avoid locations where they are exposed to harmful direct heat radiation, whether from the sun or a light. Water: When grown in containers, Aeonium like a regular supply of moisture during the growing season, which will typically be in the summer time. It's best to let the plants dry slightly between waterings, but because Aeonium have small roots, they are a bit less drought tolerant than other succulents and appreciate a steady supply of light water with good drainage. Fertilizer: A typical cactus fertilizer can help them look their best, especially in older plants where the potting media is getting older and lost some of its nutrients. Soil: A light, fast-draining potting soil is perfect. Cactus soils allow more latitude with watering because they hold less water, but regular potting soils can also be used. Propagation Many kinds of Aeonium do not clump as freely as more familiar succulents, which partially explains why they are less common in the trade (propagation is somewhat harder). However, they do root readily from leaf cuttings. Take a single leaf, allow it to dry out slightly, then place it in a seedling potting soil and keep barely moist and warm. New growth will eventually emergy. In some varieties, it's only possible to propagate from seed; this is more typical of the plants that do not branch but grow only single rosettes. Repotting These will not need frequent repotting. They are usually weakly rooted, so when you're repotting, be careful not to damage the roots or fragile leaves. Repot in the beginning of the growing season and keep in a warm, bright place until new growth begins to emerge. Varieties Collectors enjoy finding rarer Aeoniums, which grow in fantastic leaf forms and colors. Here are a few types of Aeonium that you might see:
A. arboreum. A fairly common species with mint green colored rosettes and branching growth habitate. This plant grows up to 5 feet and is easily propagated from leaf or branch cuttings. It has been extensively hybridized. A. arboreum 'Atropurpureum'. This variety of the A. arboreum features the same green leaves that transition to purple or burgendy when exposed to sunlight. This is a very beautiful and relatively common Aeonium, compared to some of the more esoteric plants. A arboreum 'Zwartkop.' Similar to the other two varieties, with the exception being that its leaves are dark purple and almost black. This plant is exceptionally beautiful when grown in masses. Grower's Tips: Aeonium are wonderful succulents that can really add visual interest to a succulent collection. They are relatively cold and heat sensitive, however, and do best in a faily temperate range. The same is true for watering: they dislike intense droughts or too much water. Ideally, Aeonium thrive in a Mediterranean climate, with mild winters and mild summers, and regular but not overwhelming water. Aeonium is vulnerable to mealybugs and aphids.
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Miss Chen
2018年06月30日
Miss Chen

07.Dudleya Pronunciation: Traits: Native to the southwestern United States and Baja California, Dudleya is another species that also has a lovely flower, rosette shape, and pattern, with fleshy "petals" in green, red, purple, grey, or a mix. They are sometimes confused with Echeverias, although have completely opposite growing seasons. The white and grey varieties are often covered with a chalky powder, which can wash off or get pitted or spotted when it rains. That's why this type is best kept under a patio or pergola cover. During the summer these succulents are dormant, and prefer to be kept dry. These easy-to-care-for plants will grow on slopes, in decomposed granite (DG), in rock gardens, and in various types of containers. Flowers emerge on long stalks in shades of red, pink, yellow, and white, and attract hummingbirds. Try These: Dudleya brittonii D. cymosa D. edulis D. lanceolata Chalk Live Forever: D. pulverulent
08.Echeveria Pronunciation: ech-eh-VER-ee-a Traits: Native to the Americas, these succulents form beautiful, intricate rosettes in a variety of colors: white, grey, green, pink, and red. Leaves are fleshy and green or grey-green Try These: Echeveria elegans Echeveria imbricata E. derenbergii E. haageana E. Pulvinata
09.Euphorbia Pronunciation: yoo-FOR-bee-uh Traits: Also known as spurge, there are more than 1,000 species in the euphorbia family. Some resemble cactus, others are globe-shaped, and some make striking accents in the garden. Probably the best-known euphorbia is the poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima), which can be grown into shrubs or trees in mild climates. Try These: Euphorbia echinus E. burmannii E. characias 'Humpty Dumpty' E. grandicornis E. ingens E. lactea E. horrida E. mammilllaris E. milii 'Crown of Thorns' E. obesa E. obovalifolia E. submammilaris E. tirucalli 'Sticks on Fire' E. x martini
10.Graptopetalum Pronunciation: grap-toh-PET-al-um Traits: Native to Mexico and the southwestern United States, most of the graptopetalum species are fleshy white or light grey succulents that form beautiful rosettes. Unlike other succulents, graptopetalum can survive a freeze and can revive after being in temperatures below 20 degrees. In the garden, it is a great-performing ground cover, and also can be used in rock gardens, on rocky slopes, spilling over garden walls, or in containers or hanging planters. Graptoverias are hybrids of graptopetalums and echeverias, some of which are similar in color and form (rosette). The most popular types are G. 'Fred Ives' and G. 'Opalina'. Try These: Ghost Plant: Graptopetalum paraguayense Graptopetalum amethystinum
11.Haworthia Pronunication: ha-WORTH-ee-a Traits: These natives to South Africa are quite succulent and are filled with a translucent gel that resembles that produced by the Aloe vera. Depending on the type, they can vary in size, and colors range from green to brown to variegated, like the Zebra Plant (Haworthia attenuata). Most prefer shade or dappled sunlight and grow during the winter in mild climates. Too much water or moisture can kill them. Try These: Zebra Plant: Haworthia attenuata H. angustifolia H. batesiana H. coarctata H. cooperi H. cymbiformis H. reinwardtii H. 'Slices' H. tessellata
12.Kalanchoe Pronunciation: kal-un-KOH-ee Traits: Native to tropical America, Africa, and southeast Asia, these succulents don't tolerate frost and prefer a moist climate. Leaves can be smooth or felted (felt plant); while flowers are often showy and come in shades of yellow, red, orange, pink, and white. Try These: Kalanchoe thyrsiflora (Flap jack, dog tongue plant) K. beharensis K. blossfeldiana K. tomentosa
13.Sedum Pronunciation: SEE-dum Traits: These succulents have fleshy leaves, but their size, shape, and color vary among the species. Some are bush and upright, while others are small and trailing. Flowers are small, starlike, and bloom in clusters. Sedums grow well in rock gardens, on banks, or in small areas that need texture or color. Larger species can be used as shrub-like plants. Try These: Sedum alboroseum 'Frosty Morn' S. anglicum Autumn Joy: S. herbstfreude S. 'Blue Spruce' Burro Tail: S. burrito Dragon's Blood: S. 'Dragon's Blood' S. multiceps S. 'Vera Jameson' S. pachyphyllum
14.Senecio Pronunciation: sen-EE-see-oh Traits: Native to the Americas and Mediterranean regions, Senecio comes from the daisy family. There are about 100 succulent species, including the popular blue chalk or fingers that are used for borders and edges in drought tolerant landscaping. The beautiful Fishhooks species is easy to grow, requires little water, and makes an attractive hanging plant, especially in dry climates. Try These: Senecio mandraliscae Fishhook Plant, String of Fishhook, or String of Bananas: Senecio radicans Blue Chalk Sticks or Chalk Fingers: S. serpens Himalayan Senecio: S.talinoides spp. cylindricus String of Pearls or Beads: S.rowleyanus
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Miss Chen
2018年06月30日
Miss Chen

01.Grow These Succulents Almost Anywhere It seems like pretty much everyone has developed a thirst for succulents—those plants with exotic shapes and diverse forms that are easy to maintain and create a bold statement wherever they grow. Even beginning gardeners are tempted to buy one or two out of curiosity; with some getting hooked after seeing how beautiful and manageable they are. Many of the uninitiated take a look at a bed of succulents and refer to them as Hens and Chicks (Sempervivums). But there are hundreds—thousands—of others that aficionados collect, trade, share and discuss in person and online. Some people love them because they are so easy to propagate—just take a snip, let callous over, and plant in the ground or in a container. In regions that have been affected by drought or practice water-wise landscaping, succulents are a gorgeous and simple addition to the garden. They also thrive on patios, decks, and balconies, and make smart choices for pool area landscaping. Planting the Right Succulents Things you should know before you get started: Succulents require more water in summer. If you live in a region with little rainfall, plan to water in-ground succulents once a week. Those in containers will require water about three times per week. Reduce irrigation in fall and winter so that succulents can withstand lower temperatures. Soggy soil and soft, new growth make succulents more susceptible to damage from freezes. What grows best in your region? If you aren't sure, buy from local suppliers: nurseries, succulent plant groups, botanical gardens, etc. This will ensure that they will survive. While all-succulent gardens are attractive, start out by working them into your existing landscape. Discover some of the best companion plants for succulents. Learn more about these easy-to-care-for beauties, including how to pronounce them (so you can impress everyone). And remember: cactus are succulents, but succulents are not cactus. Species are presented alphabetically.
02.Aeonium Pronunciation: a-OH-nee-um Traits: These natives of North Africa's Canary Islands prefer more moisture than most succulents. Darker ones, like the purple/black Aeonium 'Zwartkop', can tolerate sun more than the lighter varieties. Many aeoniums are in the forms of flowers and rosettes, making them especially pretty in container gardens or even cut bouquets or arrangements. Try These: Black Aeonium: Aeonium arboreum 'Zwartkop' A. artropurpureum Kiwi Aeonium: A.decorum "Kiwi' Canary Island aeonium: A. canariense Sunburst Aeonium: A. 'Sunburst'
03.Agave Pronunciation: a-GAH-vee Traits: Native to the Americas, in-ground specimens grow more quickly and produce more blooms than their cousins confined to containers. Easily identifiable by their strong forms and large sizes—they make striking landscape plants. Leaves can be smooth, sword-shaped, toothed, or carried in rosettes. Blooms are infrequent but can be magnificent and huge--sometimes 14 feet or more. After flowering the larger agaves die, but offshoots or pups usually form before this occurs. Try These: Tuxedo Agave: Agave americana Fox Tail Agave: A. attenuata; 'Kara's Stripes' A. 'Blue Flame' A. 'Cream Spike' A. filifera A. lopantha 'Quadricolor' Parry's Agave or Artichoke Agave: A. parryi Butterfly Agave: A. potatorum 'Kissho Kan' or 'Kichi-Jokan' Queen Victoria Agave: A. victoriae-reginae
04.Aloe Pronunciation: AL-oh Traits: Native to Africa, the Mediterranean, Madagascar, aloes have fleshy, pointed leaves often arranged in rosettes that resemble agaves. Aloes, however, have showy flowers that bloom regularly, with the biggest display of flowers from February to September. Some blooms are tubular shaped and come in shades of orange, red, or yellow, while others are bicolor.​ Aloes can be just a few inches high to as tall as trees, with leaves that are either smooth, bumpy, or prickly. It's those leaves that help funnel water down to the plant's crown, keeping it moist and succulent. Aloes prefer more water than agaves and other succulents. Their roots are fairly close to the surface, making them ideal next to houses or near pools. Try These: Aloe africana A. arborescens A. plicatilis A. striata A. vera
05.Crassula Pronunciation: KRASS-oo-la Traits: Native to South Africa, this large genus features small-to-medium succulents that have fleshy leaves arranged in a variety of patterns. Some crassula have branching stems, while others have are low-growing plants with dense foliage that are often good ground covers. Try These: Jade: Crassula ovata Crassula argentea C. falcata C. cooperi C. deltoidea
06.Dasylirion Pronunciation: das-uh-LIH-ree-uhn Traits: Although they more closely resemble a palm, this species surprises some people when they learn that they are actually succulents. Popular in xeriscape gardens, they have a southwestern look, and many have green, greyish, or blue-green strap-like leaves with small, sharp teeth that line the leaf edges. Small trunks can become woody, which makes them appear even less like succulents. These striking succulents like some water, but will grow in desert and drought-tolerant gardens and make attractive container plants. Try These: Mexican Grass Tree: Dasylirion longissimum or D. quadrangulatum Desert Spoon: D. wheelerii Texas Sotol D. texanum
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Miss Chen
2018年06月29日
Miss Chen

1.Ice Plants Ice plants are an interesting genus of succulents, with daisy-like flowers. There is a good amount of variety among ice plants; some are low growing spreaders, others become bushy subshrubs. There are over 150 species in this genus from southern Africa. Most are easy growers that bloom freely. The botanical name, Lampranthus, is from the Greek words "Lampros" (bright) and anthos (flower). Leaves: The stocky leaves grow in pairs and can be cylindrical or almost triangular. They are short, very succulent and often blue-green. Flowers: Daisy-like flowers with thin petals that only open in the sun. Different species bloom in vivid shades of yellow, orange, pink and red. The flowers form near the stem tips. Some varieties bloom over a long period, others only a few weeks. Botanical Name Lampranthus species and hybrids Common Names Ice Plant. You may see individual species labeled as Ice Plants and some have quantifiers like Trailing Ice Plant. It can be confusing. If you are looking for a specific plant, you would be wise to have the botanical name. Cold Hardiness Hardiness will vary with the species and variety, but most are only perennial in USDA Hardiness Zones 8 - 10. Some species can tolerate a light frost, but despite their name, prolonged periods of cold, damp conditions will cause them to rot. Gardeners in colder areas can grow them as annuals or houseplants. Sun Exposure All varieties of ice plant grow and bloom best in full sun. Mature Plant Size The size will vary among the species, but most of the commonly grown ice plant varieties remain 2 ft. (60 cm) tall or lower, with a spreading habit. Bloom Time Many ice plants put on their best show in spring, with sporadic repeat blooms throughout the season, however, a few, like Lampranthus spectabilis, bloom all summer. Suggested Varieties of Ice Plant Lampranthus aurantiacus - Spring blooming, upright plant with bright orange petals around a yellow center. H 2 ft. (60 cm) Lampranthus coccineus / Redflush Ice Plant - Bright red flowers throughout the season. Somewhat frost tolerant. H 2 ft. (60 cm) Lampranthus haworthii - Blue-green leaves held up like a candelabra are covered with pink or purple flowers in the spring. Repeat blooms sporadically. H 2 ft. (60 cm) Lampranthus spectabilis /Trailing Ice Plant- Long blooming in white or purple-pink. Low growing and spreading. H 2 ft. (60 cm) Design Suggestions Using Ice Plant Where the plants are hardy, they make a nice ground cover. Ice plants thrive in poor soil and make a wonderful alpine or rock garden plant or tucked in a stone wall. Their spreading habit means they quickly fill a container and spill over, so they are equally nice in hanging baskets and free-standing containers.
2.Growing and Caring for Ice Plants Ice Plant Growing Tips Soil: A neutral soil pH is fine, but it is more important to provide sandy, well-draining soil. Plants will rot if left in wet or damp soil for prolonged periods of time. Planting: Ice Plants can be grown from either seed or cuttings. Seeds need warm temperatures (55 F.) to germinate. Taking cuttings is the fastest method. Make cuttings while the plant is actively growing, from spring to early fall. Cut shoots about 3 - 6 inches long and remove all but the top set of leaves. Succulent cuttings should be allowed to dry slightly and callus. Leave them out in the air for several hours or overnight. Then root in sandy soil, in containers. Keep the soil evenly moist, until the cutting root. You can tell they have rooted by gently tugging on them. If they offer resistance, they have rooted and can be potted up. Caring for Ice Plants Established plants are extremely drought tolerant, however, they do prefer regular weekly watering during the summer. Allow the soil to dry out between waterings in the winter, when they are somewhat dormant. Flowering is more abundant if container grown plants are fed a balanced fertilizer, according to label directions. In-ground plants should be fed if the soil is poor or if blooming is sparse. Plants can be divided or repotted in early spring. Pests & Problems of Ice Plants Weather is the biggest problem when growing Ice Plants. Few diseases have been reported, but mealy bug and scale can occasionally infest.
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