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Miss Chen
2018年07月13日
Miss Chen
When grown in the ground, asparagus (Asparagus officinalis) needs plenty of room for its large root system. When garden space is at a premium, however, you can grow asparagus in a container, as long as you're prepared for a smaller plant and a less bountiful harvest than you'd get with in-ground asparagus. Asparagus also spreads. So growing it in a container can help keep it from getting into parts of the garden where you don't want it to be. Asparagus grows as a perennial plant in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 2 through 8, but some of its varieties are perennial in different USDA zones.
Choosing Varieties Because container-grown asparagus plants do not produce as prolifically as asparagus grown in the ground, the best cultivars for container-growing are those that produce the highest yields per plant. 'Jersey Knight' is one such cultivar. It produces many large spears, which are the plant's edible, new shoots, and it is perennial in USDA zones 3 through 10. Container-grown asparagus needs a fast start. So choose asparagus crowns -- 1-year-old, bare-root plants -- rather than trying to grow the plants from seeds. Selecting a Container Asparagus plants need a deep container that is wide enough not to crowd them. Each plant's container should be at least 18 inches deep and 1 foot wide, or give each plant that much width in a wider container. A ceramic, plastic or wooden container will work, and a large plastic storage bin is an option. The plants require good drainage, though. So if a container you choose does not have drainage holes in its base, then drill them yourself. Planting Crowns In spring, add organic potting soil to your container until the top of the soil is about 6 1/2 inches from the top of the container. Work about 1 ounce of granular 5-10-10 fertilizer per 3 square feet of soil surface area into the top few inches of the soil.
Set the asparagus crowns about 6 inches apart, and spread their roots on the top of the soil. Cover the crowns with 3 inches of soil, and water the soil thoroughly. Set the container in a spot that gets about eight hours of direct sunshine per day. When the crowns have grown to about 3 inches in height, cover them with 3 more inches of soil. Fertilizing and Watering the Plants Monitor the soil's moisture, and provide water whenever the soil dries out to a depth of about 2 inches. During hot, dry periods, the soil may need water daily. Fertilize every spring with a handful of granular 5-10-10 fertilizer, scattering it around the crowns and lightly scratching it into the surface of the soil. Water thoroughly after applying the fertilizer. Overwintering with Mulch After the asparagus plants' foliage dies back in fall, cover the plants with mulch to protect them through winter. The plants' own die-back foliage can function as a convenient mulch. Harvesting Spears The plants probably will be ready for harvest in the third year after they were planted. In the third year, harvest the plants' spears one time after they reach 6 to 8 inches in height. In following years, you can harvest spears continuously for six to eight weeks. The spears emerge above ground from the root crowns. Asparagus plants grown in the ground may continue to produce well for as long as 20 years, but container-grown plants will likely be productive for only three to five years.
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Miss Chen
2018年07月13日
Miss Chen
Cabbages produce seeds from flowers but you don't usually see them do it because it takes more than a year. If you want to get your own seed from your cabbages, choose open-pollinated varieties rather than F1 hybrids, so they'll breed true. Cabbages cross easily, not only with other cabbages but with kale, kohlrabi, cauliflower, broccoli, collards and Brussels sprouts, so you'll need to protect your seed cabbages if other plants of the same species are blooming within 1,000 feet.
Step 1 Plant your cabbage to mature as late in the fall as practical. Choose the best dozen heads to use for seed. If your winters are mild, rarely getting more than a few degrees below freezing, cover the heads with straw or other loose mulch to protect them from freezing. If your winters are severe, pull them up with roots intact and store them in a root cellar or bury them under at least a foot of dirt and mulch, deeper in the coldest climates. You want them to be kept cool but never frozen solid and damp enough so they don't dry out but not so damp that they mold. Step 2 Dig up or uncover the cabbage heads when the danger of hard freezing is past. Plant or transplant them 1/12 to 2 feet apart, spaced in a square or grid rather than a row if you'll need to protect them from cross-pollination. Plant them deep so the heads are at ground level. Cut an "x" in the top of each head, about an inch deep, to let the flowering stock emerge easily. Step 3 Set poles upright around the cabbages about 4 feet high and connect the tops with wire or heavy cord. When the seed stalks emerge in early summer but before they bloom, cover the framework with netting that's woven tightly enough that bees can't get through. When the flowers open, raise the cover long enough each morning to allow bees to enter and let them stay inside to pollinate the plants, then raise the cover to release them. Repeat while the plants are blooming, then remove the covering while the seeds mature. If no other plants that cross with cabbages are blooming at the same time within 1,000 feet, you can omit the protection and just let bees come and go to pollinate them naturally.
Step 4 Tie the seed stalks loosely to poles to keep them from bending or breaking in strong wind or rain as the seeds mature. Wait several weeks for the seeds to ripen. Step 5 Pick the seedpods when they first turn brown, before they burst open and spill their seeds. Some mature before others, so pick them every few days. Lay them on a tray in the sun to finish drying. If you don't mind losing some, you can wait until the majority have turned brown, cut the whole seed stalk and lay it on a tray or sheet to dry. For the most viable seed, let the pods mature as long as possible on the plant. Step 6 Put the pods in a cloth bag and lightly pound it or crush it to knock the seeds loose, then carefully pour them out. Use a coarse sieve to separate them from larger debris or pour them from one container to another in a light breeze to let the lighter pieces of broken pod blow away. Keep the seeds in a dark, dry place until you want to plant them. They should keep several years.
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Miss Chen
2018年07月13日
Miss Chen
The climate in the state of Missouri is continental, with a great variation between the local and regional areas. The average annual temperature in the state is 50 degrees in the northwest areas and about 60 degrees in the southeast. The Missouri boot heel area, considered the best in the state for vegetable production, offers good quality light or sandy soil. Tomatoes
A number of varieties of tomatoes do well in Missouri, including Avalanche, Better Boy, Conquest, Jet Star, Pink Delight and Show Me. All these tomatoes mature in about 70 days. The soil used for growing tomatoes should be amended with 2.5 percent organic matter, which helps to improve soil tilth and moisture retention. When choosing tomatoes for Missouri, the University of Missouri Extension suggests avoiding the varieties with large fruit, green shoulders, tomatoes with a known tendency to crack, late maturing tomatoes or with a low resistance to disease. Rhubarb
Rhubarb thrives in areas with moist, cool summers and winters just cold enough to freeze the ground several inches. Rhubarb does not do well in southern Missouri but grows well in higher elevations. Use well-drained, fertile soil for planting rhubarb and amend soil with rotted manure, sod, leaf mold or other organic matter. Rhubarb can be grown easily from seed or transplanted. The vegetable is best harvested in early spring and should be divided every 7 to 8 years. Potatoes
Potatoes grow well in Missouri. The University of Missouri Extension site lists several varieties that do well in the state. Irish Cobbler and Kennebec are the recommended white skin varieties. Kennebec is late maturing, skins easily and is highly resistant to late blight. The red skin varieties include Red Norland, a smooth, early variety which is scab resistant and has shallow eyes; Dark Red Norland, also an early variety with scab resistance and smooth, dark red skin; and Red Pontiac, a good quality, late maturing variety. The recommended russet skin potatoes for Missouri include russet Burbank, Norgold Russet, considered the best russet, and Russet Norkotah, an early variety that is also a good baking potato.
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Miss Chen
2018年07月13日
Miss Chen
Weeds are the bane of every gardener. They seem to flourish with no care or support while the plants the gardeners want require attention almost daily. Weeds steal water, nutrients, sunlight and space from vegetable plants and jeopardize the viability of the garden. Gardeners must take defensive measures to stop and control weeds to enjoy a plentiful harvest of vegetables.
Cultivation Method Cultivating or tilling the soil around vegetable plants in a garden is an effective, nontoxic method for weed and grass removal. A day or two after a soaking rain is the best time to hand-pull weeds. Wear waterproof garden gloves; you might also want a small stool to sit on. Reach your fingers into the soil and grab the main root ball of the weed before pulling. Twist as you pull to break the weed's ancillary roots. The use of a hoe or manual cultivator with a long handle trumps hand-pulling if weeding in the standing position is more comfortable. The tines of a cultivator loosen and turn soil, but the unwanted plants often require hand-pulling anyway. While weeds typically grow roots near the surface of soil, some vegetable plants do as well. The closer the weed is to the vegetable plant, the greater the risk of damaging the vegetable plant's roots with cultivating tools. When working close to vegetable plants, pull weeds by hand. The Old Farmer's Almanac reports that a German study found that cultivating soil at night resulted in a 78 percent reduction in new weed germination. Weed seeds often need only a flash of light, which turning soil provides, to start growing. Mulching Method Distributing a thick 3- to 4-inch layer of mulching materials around vegetable plants in your garden discourages the growth of weeds and unwanted grass. Mulch blocks the sun so new seeds cannot germinate. When spreading mulch, keep the material 2 to 3 inches away from the stems of the plants. Keep in mind mulch modifies ground temperatures. Inorganic mulch materials such as plastic sheeting, old carpet or weed-blocking fabric can warm soil. Warm soil benefits seeds undergoing germination or newly transplanted seedlings. However, when summer's heat arrives, organic mulch materials excel at cooling soil. Organic sources of mulch include mature compost, shredded wood, pecan shells, wood bark, grass clippings, straw, shredded leaves and newspaper.
Sawdust is a poor choice for mulch as the bacteria needed to break it down steals nitrogen from the soil and garden plants. Vinegar Method Weeds cannot stand up against a soaking spray of vinegar. Vinegar contains acetic acid that lowers the pH to an intolerable level. Mix 4 ounces lemon juice concentrate with 1 quart white or apple cider vinegar in mixing bowl. Stir until thoroughly mixed. Pour mixture into the spray bottle. Spray vinegar mixture directly on the targeted weed. Coat the entire weed with the vinegar mixture. Wait to spray until the hottest part of the day. Take care to not let the spray drift over to garden plants. This vinegar mixture will kill the leaves and roots of young weeds. Established weeds with strong roots will likely require several applications. Spray established weeds daily until the roots die.
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Miss Chen
2018年07月12日
Miss Chen
Eggplants (Solanum melongena) are not exactly fuss-free. They require plenty of sun, supplemental feeding and regular watering. Eggplants also get their share of pests. Although eggplants potentially grow as perennials in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 to 12, most people treat the heat-loving vegetables as annuals. To keep these high-maintenance Mediterranean favorites happy, grow them near other plants that either have the same needs, or which enhance the growing conditions for eggplants.
Nourishing Neighbors Eggplants thrive on nitrogen, often requiring extra fertilizer at the height of their growing season. Planting eggplants in the same beds as annual legumes benefits the eggplants because peas (Pisum sativum) and beans (Phaseolus vulgaris) pull nitrogen from the atmosphere, then fix it into the surrounding soil. If you grow pole peas or pole beans, set the eggplants in front of the trellised legumes so the eggplants won't be be shaded. If you grow bush peas and beans, alternate rows of the eggplants with beans or peas, or alternate the plants within rows. Pest Patrol Bush green beans also repel one of the eggplant's pests, the Colorado potato beetle. The perennial herb, French tarragon (Artemisia dracunculus "Sativa"), which grows in USDA zones 5 through 8, helps protect eggplants from a broad range of pests. To deter garden moths from damaging eggplants, grow thyme (Thymus vulgaris), a herb that's perennial in USDA zones 5 through 9. Mexican marigold (Tagetes minuta), an annual flower, repels beetles from the eggplant patch. Marigolds are toxic to beans, so choose only beans or marigolds as an eggplant companion -- not both. Family Affair A member of the nightshade family, the eggplant grows well with hot and sweet peppers (Capsicum annuum), which are also nightshade plants. Peppers and eggplants have the same growing needs -- full sun, regular watering and rich soil -- while also contending with the same pests and diseases. Grow them in alternate rows, or stagger them within rows. Some people also interplant eggplants with tomatoes, which are nightshade family members with similar growing needs. If you do so,you'll need to take tomatoes' height into account and make sure the tomato plants don't shade the eggplants.
Good Roommates In some cases, the best garden bed companions are the ones whose spacing and sun needs allow them to be tucked between bushy eggplants. Spinach (Spinacia oleracea) and eggplant are often listed as having a positive effect on on another. Whether there is a scientific reason for this is unclear, but certainly spinach, a cool-weather crop, appreciates the shade cast by eggplant during the dog days of summer. Earlier in the season, younger eggplants won't be tall enough to block sun when the spinach needs it most.
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Miss Chen
2018年07月12日
Miss Chen
Potatoes are low-maintenance vegetables that you can grow in your home garden and that produce an abundant harvest. Grow potatoes from seed potatoes, which are small potatoes or pieces of larger ones. Pre-sprouting them before planting, also called chitting, ensures the seed potatoes are ready and able to produce plants. Plant these sprouted potatoes properly; otherwise, they rot in the ground instead of becoming healthy and productive plants.
Step 1 Prepare a full-sun garden bed for planting. Apply a 2-inch layer of compost over the entire bed, and one-half pound of 10-10-10 analysis fertilizer to each 10-foot row. Till the compost and fertilizer into the top 6 inches of the bed. Step 2 Cut large, sprouted seed potatoes into 1- to 2-inch pieces, leaving at least one sprout - and up to three - on each seed piece. Set the seed pieces on a tray with the cut side up, and leave them overnight so the cut sides scab over, which helps prevent rot. Small seed pieces can be left whole. Step 3 Sow the seed pieces to a 3-inch depth, and space each piece 8 to 12 inches apart in the row. Space the rows 2 to 3 feet apart. Plant each seed piece so the sprout is on top and the cut side, if applicable, on the bottom. Step 4 Water the bed after planting until the soil is moist to a 6-inch depth. Water once weekly to maintain this moisture level, or twice weekly during extended dry periods.
Step 5 Cover the bed with a 2-inch layer of straw mulch once the potato plants are 5 inches tall. The mulch preserves moisture, inhibits weeds and also prevents sunburn on potato tubers growing near the soil surface.
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Miss Chen
2018年07月12日
Miss Chen
If you enjoy growing vegetables, then don't overlook snow peas (Pisum sativum var. saccharatum) and snap peas (Pisum sativum var. macrocarpon). These peas don't produce ordinary, round, green peas you'll find in cans at the grocery store. Instead, they both offer special kinds of peas with edible pea pods that have a crunchy texture and slightly sweet flavor, with snap peas being a bit sweeter. Snow peas and snap peas share many similarities, but each has a unique and clearly distinguishable pod. These varieties are also harvested at different maturity levels. Both plants grow as annuals in all U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones.
Dissimilar Pods Although snow peas and snap peas both have edible pea pods, their pods are very different. The snow pea pod is especially large, up to 5 inches long. It is broad, flat and very thin. Snow pea pods are also translucent, allowing you to see light through them. These peas taste best when picked young, before the peas inside them produce visible bulges along the back of the pod. The flatter the pod the better. Snap peas, in contrast, produce narrow, oval-shaped pods. These pods are thick, fleshy and opaque. You can't see the peas inside snap pea pods because the pod itself is so thick. Despite this fleshy cocoon, snap peas remain quite crisp and produce an audible snap when broken in half. This is how the plant got its name. The best time to pick snap peas is when the pods are full-size and filled with young but well-developed peas. Growth Supports Like all pea varieties, snap and snow pea plants grow as trailing vines that have tendrils capable of attaching to a support. Some snow pea varieties have shorter vines than those of snap peas and can grow well without any support. For example, the snow pea cultivar "Oregon Sugar Pod II" has vines that are only about 28 inches long or tall, while the cultivar "Snowbird" has even shorter vines, about 18 inches. Snap pea vines, however, are tall and almost always require the support of a fence or trellis. If necessary, you can make your own simple support by stringing stiff wire between two stakes in the ground. Climate Both snow and snap peas are cool-season crops, thriving during cool spring or fall weather. Plant either type early in spring, as soon as the soil becomes workable, or in early fall while time remains for a crop before winter arrives. Both plants are frost-resistant and will likely survive until the first killing frost. Snap peas also resist a short hot spell well, growing a bit faster in warm temperatures but still producing a sweet, crunchy crop. Because snow peas need picking before the peas grow inside the pods, however, they're a bit more sensitive than snap peas to heat. If a heat wave lasts more than one or two days, your peas may mature a bit too rapidly. If they do, the peas may be a bit tougher than normal but will still have a pleasant taste.
Soil and Water Snow and snap peas both grow in any type of garden soil, provided it is well-drained. They need even moisture to set a good crop and do best with about 1 inch of water weekly, including rain. Provide supplemental water during dry spells, but avoid overhead watering to lower the risk of fungal disorders. Instead, use a soaker hose or drip-irrigation system. Adding a 3-inch-thick layer of organic mulch, such as straw or shredded bark, helps conserve soil moisture and keeps down weeds that compete with the pear for moisture and soil nutrients. Don't allow the mulch to touch the plant stems.
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Miss Chen
2018年07月12日
Miss Chen
Avocados originated in Mexico and Central America. The first records of avocados were discovered in Aztec writings, and avocado seeds were discovered buried inside Aztec cities along with other rubble. (The modern name "avocado" actually comes from the Aztec word "ahuacati," meaning testicles, which described how the avocado fruit looked hanging on the tree.) Avocados are now grown in warm and tropical climates around the world. Preferred Climate
The preferred climate and zone for avocados is a climate with warm temperatures year-round. The tree is a tropical plant and does not like frost or temperatures under 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Avocado trees prefer high humidity of 60 to 80 percent. They can also grow in dryer climates (with no less than 40 percent humidity), but more problems may occur with the fruit or tree. The tree needs a high level of moisture and plenty of nutrients in the soil. Mexico, Central and South America
Mexico, Central America, and some regions of South America have the frost-free climate, high water quality and rich soil necessary to keep avocados healthy. About half of all avocados sold in the United States come from Mexico, with Indonesia and the USA growing an additional third. The rest of Central America and South America make the rest of the percentage of avocados grown for U.S. import. United States
It is possible to grow avocados in the United States in certain conditions. The best growing zones for avocado trees are U.S. hardiness zones 9 to 11. These zones are frost-free and have relatively even climates. All areas in these zones may not be suitable, however, because avocado trees need moisture and rich soil. Many of the warmer zones in the United States are too dry for avocado growing. Australia
Australia has a large avocado-growing industry, with over 70 varieties grown all over the country. Avocado trees were first introduced to Australia in 1840. The seeds were planted in the royal garden, and it was determined that Australia was an ideal growing climate for avocados. As of 2010, Australia does not export its avocados to any other country, although a plan to export avocados to New Zealand and Asia is in development. Growing Latitudes
Latitudes at the 0 degree latitudinal mark (right around the equator) grow the healthiest avocados. However, avocado trees can grow between the latitudes of 30 degrees north to 35 degrees south—as far north as Maryland and as far south as South Africa and Australia.
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Miss Chen
2018年07月12日
Miss Chen
Zucchini, a summer squash, is an abundant producer in the home vegetable garden. Zucchinis ripen from midsummer until fall, continually blooming and producing until cold weather kills off the plant. Frequent harvesting encourages further fruit set on the plants, so pick the ripe ones daily during the height of the season. Zucchinis left too long on the plant become tough and woody, and are no longer fit for the kitchen. Harvesting the zucchinis at the proper time ensures they are also at their peak of flavor.
Step 1 Inspect the plant for zucchinis that have reached 6 to 8 inches in length, as this is the size when most varieties begin ripening. Harvest vegetables that have glossy skin and are firm, but that can still be dented with a fingernail. Step 2 Grasp the ripe zucchini in one hand. Cut the stem ½ inch up from the zucchini with a sharp knife. Avoid pulling on the zucchini, as this can damage both the vegetable and the plant.
Step 3 Check the plant daily once zucchinis begin reaching maturity. Harvest the vegetables as soon as they reach maturity.
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Miss Chen
2018年07月11日
Miss Chen
Description: This herbaceous perennial plant is 2-6' tall and unbranched, except sometimes toward the apex, where the flowers occur. The central stem is relative stout, pale green, terete, and usually short-pubescent (less often glabrous). The opposite leaves are up to 8" long and 3½" wide, broadly oblong in shape, and smooth along their margins. The upper leaf surface is pale-medium to dark green and hairless above, while the lower leaf surface is densely covered with woolly hairs that are very short. There is a prominent central vein along the length of each leaf, and finer side veins that radiate outward toward the smooth margins. When either the central stem or leaves are torn, a milky sap oozes out that has variable toxicity in the form of cardiac glycosides. Umbels of flowers, each about 2½-4" across, emerge from the axils of the upper leaves. These flowers are quite fragrant, with a scent resembling violets or pansies, and they range in color from faded light pink to reddish purple. Each flower is about ¼" across, consisting of 5 reflexed petals and 5 raised hoods with curved horns. The hoods are more light-colored than the petals. The pedicels of the flowers are light green to pale red and hairy. The blooming period lasts about 1-1½ months from early to mid-summer. The seedpods (follicles) are 3-4" long, broadly lanceoloid, and covered with soft prickles and short woolly hairs. At maturity, each seedpod split along one side to release numerous seeds that have large tufts of white hair. Dispersion of seed is by wind. The root system has long creeping rhizomes, promoting the vegetative spread of this plant.
Cultivation: The preference is full sun, rich loamy soil, and mesic conditions, but this robust plant can tolerate a variety of situations, including partial sun and a high clay or sand content in the soil. Under ideal conditions, Common Milkweed can become 6' tall and spread aggressively, but it is more typically about 3-4' tall. This plant is very easy to grow once it becomes established. Range & Habitat: The native Common Milkweed occurs in every county of Illinois and it is quite common (see Distribution Map). Habitats include moist to dry black soil prairies, sand prairies, sand dunes along lake shores, thickets, woodland borders, fields and pastures, abandoned fields, vacant lots, fence rows, and areas along railroads and roadsides. This plant is a colonizer of disturbed areas in both natural and developed habitats.
Faunal Associations: The flowers are very popular with many kinds of insects, especially long-tongued bees, wasps, flies, skippers, and butterflies, which seek nectar. Other insect visitors include short-tongued bees, various milkweed plant bugs, and moths, including Sphinx moths. Among these, the larger butterflies, predatory wasps, and long-tongued bees are more likely to remove the pollinia from the flowers. Some of the smaller insects can have their legs entrapped by the flowers and die. Common Milkweed doesn't produce fertile seeds without cross-pollination. The caterpillars of Danaus plexippes (Monarch Butterfly) feed on the foliage, as do the caterpillars of a few moths, including Enchaetes egle (Milkweed Tiger Moth), Cycnia inopinatus (Unexpected Cycnia), and Cycnia tenera (Delicate Cycnia). Less common insects feeding on this plant include Neacoryphus bicrucis (Seed Bug sp.) and Gymnetron tetrum (Weevil sp.); see Insect Table for other insect feeders). Many of these insects are brightly colored – a warning to potential predators of the toxicity that they acquired from feeding on milkweed. Mammalian herbivores don't eat this plant because of the bitterness of the leaves and their toxic properties.
Photographic Location: The photographs were taken at Meadowbrook Park in Urbana, Illinois, and along a roadside ditch in Champaign, Illinois. Comments: Depending on the local ecotype, Common Milkweed is highly variable in appearance. The color of the flowers may be highly attractive, or faded and dingy-looking. This plant is often regarded as a weed to be destroyed, but its flowers and foliage provide food for many kinds of insects. Common Milkweed can be distinguished from other milkweeds by its prickly follicles (seedpods) – other Asclepias spp. within Illinois have follicles that are smooth, or nearly so.
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