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Miss Chen
2018年06月25日
Miss Chen
Description: This herbaceous wildflower is a biennial about 1-3' tall. During the first year, it forms a low rosette of leaves, while during the second year it bolts, forming flowering stalks. Small second-year plants branch sparingly, if at all, while robust second-year plants branch readily, especially above. The stems are light green, yellowish green, or reddish green; they are terete and glabrous. Pairs of opposite leaves occur along these stems. Individual leaves are 1-2½" long and ¼-1" across; they are ovate, lanceolate, or narrowly lanceolate in shape and smooth along their margins. Each leaf is rounded at the base, where it is sessile or clasps the stem. Both the lower and upper surfaces of the leaves are yellowish green to medium green and glabrous. The leaves have prominent central veins and a slightly succulent texture.
Upper stems terminate with individual flowers on long peduncles (up to 8" in length). Each flower is 1½-2½" long, consisting of a broad tubular corolla with spreading 4 lobes that are rounded and fringed, 4 lanceolate to ovate sepals that are about one-half the length of the corolla, 4 inserted stamens, and a pistil with a short style. The corolla varies in color from medium blue to deep dark blue. The sepals are light green to reddish green, glabrous, and keeled; 2 sepals are shorter than the other 2 sepals. The shorter sepals have membranous margins. The upright peduncles are light green to reddish green and glabrous; they are terete and sometimes slightly ribbed (striated). The blooming period occurs from early to mid-fall and lasts about 1½-2 months. The flowers are diurnal, opening up on sunny days, while remaining closed on cloudy days and during the night. There is no noticeable floral scent. The flowersStems & Opposite Leaves are replaced by elongated seed capsules. Individual capsules divide into 2 parts to release the numerous tiny seeds within. To some extent, they are distributed by wind and water. The seed surface is minutely bumpy. The root system consists of a shallow branching taproot. This wildflower reproduces by reseeding itself. Cultivation: The preference is full or partial sun, somewhat wet to moist conditions, and calcareous sandy soil with a neutral pH. Insect pests and disease organisms rarely bother this wildflower. Robust plants can sprawl if they are not supported by adjacent vegetation. Range & Habitat: Fringed Gentian is a rare native wildflower that is found in NE Illinois, while in the rest of the state it is absent (see Distribution Map). While populations have declined from habitat destruction, Fringed Gentian is not yet listed as 'endangered' or 'threatened' within the state. Habitats include wet to moist sand prairies, sandy pannes near Lake Michigan, edges of sandy sloughs and sandy swales, fens, open wooded swamps, wooded ravines, roadside ditches, and open damp areas along sandy trails. Fringed Gentian is usually associated with high quality wetlands where the original flora is still intact, although it has a tendency to colonize open disturbed areas both in and around these habitats. Faunal Associations: Information about floral-faunal relationships for this wildflower is scant. The nectar and pollen of the flowers attract primarily bumblebees. Costelloe (1988) observed the following bumblebees visiting the flowers of Fringed Gentian in Ohio: Bombus fervidus, Bombus impatiens, Bombus perplexus, and Bombus vagans. Apparently, the bitter foliage is rarely bothered by insects and mammalian herbivores. Photographic Location: Edge of a wet sandy meadow along a trail at the Indiana Dunes National Lakeshore in NW Indiana.
Comments: The flowers have an unearthly beauty that is positively stunning; Fringed Gentian ranks among the most attractive of all wildflowers within Illinois. Another similar species in this genus is Gentianopsis procera (Lesser Fringed Gentian). This latter species is a petite version of Fringed Gentian: it is usually shorter with smaller flowers and leaves. The flowers of Lesser Fringed Gentian have corolla lobes that are less deeply fringed, and its leaves are more narrow (becoming linear-lanceolate to nearly linear underneath the flowers). Lesser Fringed Gentian is even less common than Fringed Gentian, preferring similar to slightly wetter habitats. Another common name of Gentianopsis crinita is Greater Fringed Gentian; a scientific synonym of this species is Gentiana crinita.
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Miss Chen
2018年06月25日
Miss Chen
6.Kalanchoe So many of us only know these Kalanchoe as houseplants, forced into bloom at the florists. There are several hybrids with different forms, but all have flowers in clear, bright colors. Kalanchoe blossfeldiana is one of the most readily available. It can do quite well indoors but has the annoying habit of growing long and gangly and not wanting to flower again. When that happens,take a few cuttings and start over. It is frost tender. 7.Ice Plants (Lampranthus) There are about 100 species of Lampranthus, succulents plants from South Africa. They have bright colored daisy-like flowers. The best known is the Ice Plant, Lampranthus multiradiatus. These look best massed and where they are hardy, they make a great ground cover or turf alternative, although I wouldn't walk on them. They are very forgiving. If you forget to water them, they just kept on blooming. 8.Sedum (stonecrop) The tall Sedums, like ‛Autumn Joy' are wonderful showy, drought tolerant plants. Most bloom in late summer but look great for weeks as their broccoli-like flowers fill out. Even after blooming, the flowers just deepen in color and continue putting on a show. The creeping and trailing varieties have long been used in rock gardens and as ground covers. And they will cover ground very quickly. They have star-shaped blooms during the summer and are less attractive to deer than the tall varieties. You may see rabbits munching on them, though, probably for the water. Many varieties are extremely cold hardy. 9.Sempervivum Hen and chicks have made a huge comeback. I remember them in my grandmother's garden and thought they were interesting, but not real flowers. I have become a total convert and enjoy spotting them tucked in throughout other's gardens. Sempervivums are cold hardy, but a little touchy about long, hot, dry summers. They are perfect for all kinds of containers, from hypertufa troughs to strawberry jars. These look a lot like Echeverias, but Sempervivum have pointed leaves that are a little thinner than Echeveria and they are more spherical. 10.Senecio This is an odd group of plants, with bizarre shapes. The Candle Plants, Senecio articulatus, looks more like fingers, to me. Senecio talinoides var.mandraliscae, Blue Fingers, is icy blue-gray and these fingers are pointed. Then there's the perfectly charming Golden Groundsel, Senecio aureus, a ground cover with bright yellow, daisy-like flowers atop base rosettes. It's also hardy down to USDA Zone 4. Senecio rowleyanus (String of Beads or String of Pearls) looks more like a string of peas, but whatever it's called, it's striking.
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Miss Chen
2018年06月25日
Miss Chen
1.Aeonium The majority of us can't grow Aeoniums year round, in the garden. Don't let that stop you from enjoying them, though. Although they have the familiar rosettes of Hens and Chicks, these quirky succulents are so waxy and shiny, they almost look artificial. In warm climates, they can grow into shrubs. Just imagine coming across a Hens and Chicks at eye level. As with many of the succulents listed here, Aeonium makes a good houseplant. You can give it a summer vacation outdoors and enjoy it indoors during the winter, it's prime growing season. (USDA Hardiness Zones 9 - 11) 2.Agave You may be familiar with the giant Agave Americana, with its dangerous, serrated leaves. It's impressive, but not suited to most gardens. There are better choices among the dozens of Agave species. There are even some that can tolerate freezing temperatures. 3.Crassula With about 350 species in this genus, there's a lot of variety. Jade plants, Crassula ovata, (syn. C. argentea and C. portulaca) are probably the most familiar, but there are also the stacked types, Crassula perforata, that look a little like paper chaines. Colors range from deep green to creams and yellows, silvery gray and shade of red. In frost free climates, jade plants will form small shrubs. There's are now some very pretty variegated varieties available, which need full sun to retain their colors. The staked varieties lend themselves to use in hanging containers and over walls. You'll love this little Crassula alpestris. The triangular leaves form stacked pinwheels. They are a pinkish-red during the winter, into spring. At the end of summer, you may get spikes of small white. They can handle some shade and like their soil on the dry side. 4.Echeveria Another succulent that forms flower-like rosettes atop long stalks. Echeveria resembles Hens and Chicks and can be very ornamental. The leaves are more delicate than they appear and can be easily injured in garden beds. They are perfect for containers and hypertufa. 5.Euphorbia This is a large genus with a great deal of variety. Not all Euphorbia are succulents but they do all have a milky sap that can be irritating. Be careful about rubbing your eyes after collecting seeds.
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Miss Chen
2018年06月25日
Miss Chen
There are over 10,000 succulent plants, which include cacti. Many are native to South Africa and Madagascar and the Caribbean. Succulent plants have thick, fleshy leaves, stems or roots. This is one of the ways they have adapted to dry conditions by taking advantage of whatever water is available and holding onto it for later use. When full of water, the leaves can appear swollen. When they are becoming depleted, the leaves will begin to look puckered.
Other water conserving features you may find in succulents are narrow leaves, waxy leaves, a covering of hairs or needles, reduced pores, or stomata, and ribbed leaves and stems, that can expand water holding capacity. Their functioning is fascinating, but most are also quite attractive, too. They are perfect for dry climates and periods of drought anywhere, but many are not cold hardy below USDA Zone 9. Even so, they can be grown as annuals or over-wintered indoors. Several make great houseplants. Grow them all year in containers and you can just move the whole thing in when the temperature drops. General Succulent Care Water: During the summer, allow the soil to dry out between waterings and then water so that the soil is soaked through, but not dripping wet. Don't let the roots sit in soggy or waterlogged soil. In winter, most succulents will only need water every month or so. They are basically dormant. If your house is particularly dry, you may need to water more often. The leaves will pucker slightly and begin to look desiccated if they need water. But just as in the summer, don't leave the plants sitting is soggy soil. Soil: In pots, use a chunky, fast draining soil. This is one group of plants that does not thrive in the traditional loamy garden mix. There are special potting mixes sold for succulents. In the ground, most succulents like a slightly acidic soil pH (5.5 – 6.5). Add some organic matter to very sandy soils, to retain moisture long enough for the plants to take it up. In clay soils, raised beds are your best option. Choosing Succulents Below are some popular succulents that are generally easy to grow.
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Miss Chen
2018年06月24日
Miss Chen
Description: This herbaceous perennial plant has branching leafy stems that are 4–16" long. These stems have a tendency to sprawl and cling to adjacent vegetation; they are light green to light greenish purple, and 4-angled. The stems have short stiff hairs along their angles, otherwise they are hairless. Whorls of 4 spreading leaves (never 5–6 leaves) occur at intervals along these stems; these leaves are sessile, or nearly so. Individual leaves are 6-19 mm. (¼–¾") long, narrowly elliptic or narrowly elliptic-oblanceolate in shape, and toothless along their margins. The leaf tips are rounded. The leaf surfaces are yellowish green to medium green; short stiff hairs occur along the margins of the leaves and along the underside of their central veins. The short stiff hairs of both the stems and leaves can cling to neighboring vegetation or objects. Each leaf has a prominent central vein. The stems often terminate in small clusters of 2-3 flowers; either solitary or small clusters of 2-3 flowers are also produced from the axils of leaves. Each flower is about 1.5–2 mm. across, consisting of a white corolla with 3 lobes, 3 stamens, 2 styles that are joined together at the base, and 2 spheroid light green ovaries that are connected together. The lobes of the corolla are oval-ovate in shape. The pedicels of the flowers are usually longer than the corresponding leaves. These pedicels are light green to light purplish green and usually more or less curved; they have short stiff hairs that can cling to adjacent vegetation or objects. The pedicels become even longer as the ovaries mature. The blooming period occurs from mid-summer to late summer for about 1½ months. Only a few flowers are in bloom at the same time. Afterwards, the maturing paired ovaries expand in size, changing color from light green (or light purple) to brown (or black) at maturity. These ovaries are hairless and single-seeded; they eventually split apart. The small seeds are spheroid in shape and partially hollow inside; they are capable of floating on water and being distributed by it. The root system is shallow and fibrous. Cultivation: The preference is full or partial sun, shallow water or wet conditions, a substrate containing some sand or organic material, and a relatively cool climate.
Range & Habitat: Small Bedstraw (Galium trifidum) is uncommon in Illinois, occurring in the NE section of the state, and a central section of the state along or near the Illinois River (see Distribution Map). Illinois lies along the southern range-limit of this species. It is more widely distributed in North America further to the north and it also occurs in Eurasia. Habitats include edges of sphagnum bogs, cattail marshes, low sandy areas along rivers, and northern swamps. In Illinois, Small Bedstraw is found in high quality wetlands in natural areas. Faunal Associations: Various insects feed on foliage or sap of bedstraws (Galium spp.). These insect feeders include the larvae of a leaf-mining fly (Galiomyza galiivora), larvae of the Bedstraw Midge (Dasineura americana), larvae of an introduced sawfly (Halidamia affinis), and larvae of the Galium Sphinx (Hyles gallii); see Spencer & Steyskal, 1986; Felt, 1917; Smith, 2006; Wagner, 2005). Other insects that have been observed to feed on bedstraws include aphids, the larvae of Geometer moths, plant bugs (Miridae), stinkbugs (Pentatomidae), and ebony bugs (Thyreocoridae). The nectar and pollen of the flowers of these plants attract primarily small bees and flies (Robertson, 1929). Bedstraws that inhabit wetlands are a minor source of food to Muskrats (Hamerstrom & Blake, 1939).
Photographic Location: A cattail marsh near Volo Bog in Lake County, Illinois. Comments: This bedstraw is quite small in size and rather inconspicuous. It can be distinguished from other bedstraw species (Galium spp.) primarily by the 3-lobed corollas of its flowers, the whorls of 4 leaves along its stems, the long curved pedicels of its flowers or fruits, and its strong preference for wetland habitats. The only other bedstraw species that produces 3-lobed flowers in Illinois, Stiff Bedstraw (Galium tinctorium), is a little larger in size overall. Unlike Small Bedstraw (Galium trifidum), Stiff Bedstraw sometimes has whorls of 5-6 leaves along its stems and sometimes it also produces 4-lobed flowers (even on the same plant). The pedicels of Stiff Bedstraw with maturing fruits are shorter in length and more straight than those of Small Bedstraw, and they are hairless. Another similar bedstraw, Wild Madder (Galium obtusum), is also slightly larger in size than Small Bedstraw. Wild Madder always produces flowers with 4-lobed corollas; it has whorls of 4-6 leaves along its stems, and its stems lack the short stiff hairs that are found on the stems of Small Bedstraw and Stiff Bedstraw. Unlike many other bedstraws, all three of these species have hairless ovaries/fruits. Another common name of Galium trifidum is Three-petaled Bedstraw.
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Miss Chen
2018年06月24日
Miss Chen
Description: This perennial wildflower is ¾-2½' tall, abundantly branched, and sprawling across adjacent vegetation. The stems are light to medium green, sharply 4-angled and sparsely rough-edged from short stiff hairs. Along these stems are whorls of 4-6 sessile leaves; whorls of 5-6 leaves sometimes occur where the stem branches, otherwise there are 4 leaves per whorl. Individual leaves are up to 1" (25 mm.) long and ¼" (6 mm.) across; they are medium to dark green and narrowly elliptic or narrowly elliptic-oblanceolate in shape. The leaf margins are without teeth and rough-edged from short stiff hairs. There is a single prominent vein per leaf. Both terminal and axillary cymes of 1-3 flowers are produced. Individual flowers are 1/8" (3 mm.) across or a little less; each flower has a white corolla with 3 (less often 4) spreading lobes, a bifurcated two-celled ovary with a pair of styles, and 3 (less often 4) stamens. The surface of the ovary is green and smooth. The pedicels of the flowers or fruits are up to 1" long, straight, and angular; their edges are smooth. The blooming period occurs during the summer for about 2-3 months. Usually, only a few flowers are in bloom at the same time. Each flower is replaced by a two-celled seedpod that is about 1/8" (3 mm.) across. The seedpod changes color as it matures from green, to purple, and black. Each cell of the pod is globoid-ovoid in shape, smooth, and single-seeded. The root system is fibrous and rhizomatous. Cultivation: The preference is full or partial sun, wet to moist conditions, and soil containing loam, clay-loam, sand, or gravel. Standing water is readily tolerated if it is temporary.
Range & Habitat: The native Stiff Bedstraw is occasional in northern Illinois, and uncommon or absent in the rest of the state (see Distribution Map). Habitats include marshes, fens, low areas along rivers and ponds, swamps, wet sand prairies, prairie swales, and ditches. Stiff Bedstraw is usually found in higher quality wetlands in Illinois. Faunal Associations: The flowers are cross-pollinated by flies and small bees. The caterpillars of some moths feed on the foliage or flower tissues of Galium spp. These species include: Epirrhoe alternata (White-Bordered Toothed Carpet), Hyles gallii (Galium Sphinx), Lobocleta ossularia (Drab Brown Wave), and Scopula inductata (Soft-Lined Wave). The species Myzus cerasi (Black Cherry Aphid) uses Galium spp. as summer hosts. Three plant bugs in Illinois are known to feed on these plants: Criocoris saliens, Polymerus proximus, and the introduced Polymerus unifasciatus. White-Tailed Deer browse on the foliage sparingly or not at all. Because the bristly hairs of the stems and leaves can cling to passing objects, animals may play a minor role in spreading the seeds to new locations.
Photographic Location: A wet sand prairie at the Indiana Dunes National Lakeshore in NW Indiana. Comments: Stiff Bedstraw is unusual because its corollas can have 3-4 lobes on the same plant. In Illinois, the only other bedstraw with 3 lobes on its corollas is Small Bedstraw (Galium trifidum). This latter species is similar to Stiff Bedstraw, but smaller in size and slightly more bristly. In particular, the pedicels of Small Bedstraw are bristly and curved, while those of Stiff Bedstraw are smooth and straight. While Stiff Bedstraw is scattered throughout Illinois, Small Bedstraw is restricted to northern Illinois and a sandy area of central Illinois. This latter species has a more northern distribution and prefers a cool climate.
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Miss Chen
2018年06月24日
Miss Chen

6.Plant the Container Once you are happy with the arrangement, remove the plants from the container, then begin removing them from their nursery pots and placing them back into the container, one-by-one. The soil in the nursery pots may be fairly coarse and loose, so be careful when removing the plants. Hold the plant gently at the top with the stem between two fingers. Turn the pot over on its side and gently tap the bottom of the pot and ease the plant out. (If you are handling a spiny succulent, make sure to use gloves when doing this.) Once all plants are placed in the container, duplicating the design you want, gently pack additional succulent potting soil around each plant. As you do this, make sure to keep the plants at the same level they were growing at in their nursery pots—don't bury them deeper than they were already growing. Make certain that you have filled in all the holes and spaces between the plants and also between the plants and the sides of the container. If you don’t, the roots will dry out, which can be lethal to your plant.
7.Finishing Touches Gently remove any soil that is covering leaves and stems of the plants. You can do this with a soft-bristled brush, or even by gently blowing on the plants. To give your container a finished look, cover the surface of the potting soil with a topdressing of some form of coarser stone, such as fine gravel, pebbles, sea glass, or marbles. The topdressing material can be brightly colored or neutral, depending on the look you want to achieve. Using a contrasting colored material for a topdressing can add zing to a pot; a more subtle topdressing can add elegance. The right topdressing can tie all the elements in your pot together or it can make plants stand out in contrast.
8.Caring for Your Succulents To care for your succulent container garden, the goal is to mimic the conditions they would experience naturally. During spring and summer—the growing season for most succulents— keep the soil moist, not wet. It's better to let the soil get a little dry between watering than it is to over-water. During the winter, when succulent plants are normally dormant, water much less frequently, keeping the soil on the dry side but not letting it dry out entirely. Fertilization should be fairly minimal with succulent plants, and may not be needed at all. It will depend largely on the type of plants you are growing—research each species to learn its needs. If feeding is called for, do it only during the active growing season, using a diluted liquid fertilizer designed for succulents.
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Miss Chen
2018年06月24日
Miss Chen

2.Assemble Materials and Plants A trip to a full-service garden center will likely provide you with all the materials you need. Or you can order materials (except for the plants) from online retailers. The things you'll need include: A container with drainage holes (shallow containers are best) Succulent plants selected to fill container Plastic window screening (or a piece of landscape fabric or a coffee filter) Cactus or succulent potting soil Stones, gravel, sea glass or marbles
3.Cover Drainage Holes Cut a piece of plastic window screening big enough to cover your pot's drainage holes. This will keep your potting soil in while letting the excess water drain out of the container. If you don't have window screening, you can use a piece of landscape fabric cut to size or a coffee filter to cover the holes. Although they are a little more expensive, you can also use commercial pot screens, available at garden centers and online retailers.
4.Add Soil Cover the bottom of the container with enough succulent mix potting soil so that when the plants are placed, the soil line on their stems will remain about 1/2 inch below the rim of the container. This will mark the final soil level, and will make it easier to water without overflowing the sides of the container.
5.Test-Fit the Plants First, place your plants, still in their nursery pots, into the container to get a general idea of the container design. Move the plants around until you are satisfied with the arrangement. Classic container garden design practice is to make sure that any container garden has a central "thriller" specimen, a group of "filler" plants and others that are "spillers" that flow over the edges of a container. But this arrangement is entirely up to you. Wonderful containers gardens often result from breaking traditional design rules.
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Miss Chen
2018年06月24日
Miss Chen
Anyone can learn how to container garden. Seriously. I used to be a confirmed slayer of all plants. My thumb was not green, it was a destroyer of green. However, over time I learned how to keep plants in containers alive, at least for the most part. I still do kill plants--on a fairly regular basis--but have come to the conclusion that all gardeners do. It's just part of the deal. All you can hope for is that the pleasure of gardening will outweigh the inevitable pain of losing plants. But the good news is that there can be huge joy in container gardening and you can learn how to do it.
1.Learn Basics of Succulent Planters Growing a succulent container garden is easy and immensely satisfying. By nature, succulent plants are tenacious, vigorous plants with low-moisture needs—they have evolved to thrive in some of the world's harshest conditions, so they are generally very easy to care for. In fact, the biggest challenge to most succulent plants is avoiding excessive nurturing—they don't do very well if they are overwatered and overfed. This makes them perfect for the gardener who doesn't have a lot of time to spend on tending plants. Design Considerations Although most succulents are not typically grown for their blooms, they come in an amazing array of colors and leaf textures, and combining them in interesting ways is a large part of the fun. Colors and textures that you wouldn’t think would go together can make beautiful arrangements. The plants you choose and how you arrange them is a personal choice, but it is important to choose plants that are in scale to one another and to the container in which you'll plant them. Small containers call for miniature varieties, while huge pots can take very tall specimens. Because succulents store their nutrients and water in their leaves, the root systems are quite compact. This means that you can crowd plants quite close together in containers. Choice of Containers Perhaps more than with any other container garden, the pot choice is key. Because the roots of succulents are relatively shallow, they can thrive and look fabulous in a shallow, wide bowl or dish. Just make sure that your pot has good drainage, or be prepared to drill your own holes in the bottom of the container. Standing water in a container can mean death to succulent plants. Soil for Succulents Equally important is the soil used in a succulent planter. You can buy any number of potting mixes designed expressly for succulent container gardening. Look for words like "cactus mix" or "succulent mix" on the labels. You can also easily make your own succulent potting soil. Ordinary potting soil is usually a bit too fluffy and not gritty enough for a succulent planter, but if you blend equal parts potting soil, coarse sand, and perlite or pumice, you will have a very suitable succulent mix soil that will work for your planters. Plant Selection There are hundreds, if not thousands of succulent plants to choose from. When choosing your plants, be aware that they may have varying light and care requirements. It’s best to check the plant tag for specifics and to make sure that the plants you intend for the container have similar needs.
Although virtually all succulents do well in hot, dry conditions, that isn't to say they all thrive in direct, hot sun all day long. Contrary to popular belief, most succulents do best if they are in the direct sun for only a few hours a day. Although all need some bright, indirect light, many need protection from getting scorched in the mid-day sun. Succulents can actually suffer from sunburn, so when you first buy them, it's best to give them an adjustment period. Similar to the “hardening off” process by which tender plants are acclimated to the outdoors, succulents should be hardened off by exposing them gradually to increasingly long periods of direct sunlight. Most garden centers today have entire sections devoted to succulent plants, and the plants are often organized by size. Sample planters may be available for you to copy, or you can experiment with arrangments of different plants right in the store to see how they look together.
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Miss Chen
2018年06月23日
Miss Chen
Succulents are booming in popularity for two simple reasons: they are beautiful and nearly indestructible. Technically, a succulent is any plant with thick, fleshy (succulent) water storage organs. Succulents store water in their leaves, their stems or their roots. These plants have adapted to survive arid conditions throughout the world, from Africa to the deserts of North America. Fortunately for us, this adaptive mechanism has resulted in an incredible variety of interesting leaf forms and plant shapes, including paddle leaves, tight rosettes, and bushy or trailing columns of teardrop leaves.
As a group, succulents include some of the most well-known plants, such as the aloe and agave, and many almost unknown plants. Cacti are a unique subset of the succulent group. Succulents make excellent display plants in dish gardens. The Rules for Growing Succulent Houseplants No matter what kind of succulent you're growing, the rules are pretty similar between the different species. Here are the general rules for growing top-quality succulents: Southern Light Succulents prefer bright light, such as found on a south-facing window. Watch the leaves for indications that the light level is correct. Some species will scorch if suddenly exposed to direct sunlight. The leaves will turn brown or white as the plant bleaches out and the soft tissues are destroyed. Alternatively, an underlit succulent will begin to stretch, with an elongated stem and widely spaced leaves. This condition is known as etoliation. The solution is to provide better light and prune the plant back to its original shape. Many kinds of succulents will thrive outdoors in the summer. Temperature Succulents are much more cold-tolerant than many people assume. As in the desert, where there is often a marked contrast between night and day, succulents thrive in colder nights, down to even 40ºF. Ideally, succulents prefer daytime temperatures between 70 F and about 85 F and nighttime temperatures between 50 F and 55 F. Watering Succulents should be watered generously in the summer. The potting mix should be allowed to dry between waterings, but do not underwater. During the winter, when the plants go dormant, cut watering back to once every other month. Overwatering and ensuing plant rot is the single most common cause of plant failure. Be aware, though, that an overwatered succulent might at first plump up and look very healthy. However, the cause of death may have already set in underground, with rot spreading upward from the root system. A succulent should never be allowed to sit in water. The following are signs of under- or overwatering: Overwatering. Overwatered plants are soft and discolored. The leaves may be yellow or white and lose their color. A plant in this condition may be beyond repair, but you can still remove it from its pot and inspect the roots. If they are brown and rotted, cut away dead roots and repot into drier potting media, or take a cutting and propagate the parent plant. Under-watering: Succulents prefer generous water during the growing season (spring and summer). An under-watered plant will first stop growing, then begin to shed leaves. Alternatively, the plant may develop brown spots on the leaves.
Potting Soil Succulents should be potted in a fast-draining mixture that's designed for cacti and succulents. If you don't have access to a specialized mix, consider modifying a normal potting mix with an inorganic agent like perlite to increase aeration and drainage. These plants have shallow roots that form a dense mat just under the soil surface. Fertilizer During the summer growing season, fertilizer as you would with other houseplants. Stop fertilizing entirely during the winter.
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