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Miss Chen
2018年06月20日
Miss Chen
To be healthy, people need vitamins, nutrients and antioxidants. By protecting cells against the damage of free radicals, antioxidants can help protect serious illnesses like cancer and heart disease, according to the National Institute of Health. Dangerous free radicals can be produced by the body as it breaks down food, or encountered in toxins like cigarette smoke, but a diet with antioxidant-rich vegetables can help combat these killers, leading to better health. Beans
Many types of beans are rich in antioxidants. Beans, be they kidney, pinto, lima or another variety, are good sources of antioxidants. Studies at Tufts University show a single cup of red beans contains over 13,000 antioxidants, and black beans, even though lowest in the legume family by the same study, still have over 4,000 antioxidants. Beans are also low in fat and cholesterol, but high in protein and fiber, making them filling, healthy and good for proper digestion. To incorporate beans into a diet, try tossing them in salad, blending them into a dip making them into a main dish like bean enchiladas. Tomatoes
Pizza sauce made from tomatoes is a good source of the antioxidant lycopene. Tomatoes derive their bright red color from the antioxidant lycopene and are one of the best sources of this free-radical fighting nutrient, according to the American Cancer Society. People who consume a diet high in tomatoes "appear in some studies to have a lower risk of certain types of cancer, especially cancers of the prostate, lung and stomach" says the society, which adds that studies have shown consuming cooked tomatoes is the most beneficial to health. Furthermore, including a healthy fat, like olive oil, with a lycopene source makes it easier for the body to absorb. Tomatoes are also high in vitamin C, potassium and other nutrients as well. Kale
Kale is a variety of lettuce that's high in nutrients. A type of cabbage, kale is a green leaf vegetable with curly edges and a study at Tufts University showed that it contains more than 11,000 antioxidants. According to the World's Healthiest Foods website, kale is particularly high in flavonoids and carotenoids, types of antioxidants which are believed to help fight cancer. World's Healthiest Foods also states these groups of antioxidants can help raise the amount of certain nutrients in the blood, such as beta-carotene and lutein, which keep the heart and eyes healthy. Kale is also high in vitamin K and essential fatty acids, which have powerful anti-inflammatory properties. Eggplant
Antioxidants in eggplant can help prevent cell damage. The chubby purple eggplant has been shown to contain high amounts of important antioxidants in government tests. The Agricultural Research Service conducted studies that showed eggplants are high in chlorogenic acid, "one of the most powerful antioxidants produced in plant tissues" according to the agency. A type of phenolic compound, chlorogenic acid, among other antioxidants, is produced by vegetables to protect themselves from infection and stress, and Harvard University states these antioxidants prevent cell damage, protect against infection and can help control cholesterol.
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Miss Chen
2018年06月20日
Miss Chen
Red onions can be eaten raw, boiled, broiled, baked, creamed, steamed, fried or pickled. These cool-season vegetables are grown by gardeners either from seeds or from small bulbs. Onions are biennial plants that take two years to complete their life cycle. When planted from seed, the red onion forms and above-ground steam--modified leave --and tiny underground bulbs. The next year, larger bulbs form until the red onions are mature and ready for harvest. Planting small red onion bulbs, known as onion sets, allows gardeners to bypass the first year of growing and harvest mature onions much more quickly.
Loosen the soil to the depth of 6 inches with a shovel two to four weeks before the last frost date. Till the soil until it is loose and ready for planting. Add 2 inches of compost to the soil to ensure good fertility.
Plant the red onion sets 1 inch deep and 2 to 4 inches apart. Cover them with soil, but do not compact the soil. Plant additional rows of onions 12 to 18 inches apart.
Weed the onion patch by hand. Red onions have shallow roots and do not grow well among weeds and grass, which compete for soil nutrients and moisture. Use a garden hoe to eradicate the weeds between the rows.
Water the red onion bulbs each week whenever the weather is dry. Water the soil around the base of the plants until the soil is moist to depth of 2 to 4 inches, depending on the size of the bulbs. Use a 1-inch layer of straw mulch around the red onion bulbs to suppress weed growth and hold in soil moisture.
Feed the red onions three weeks after active growth has started. Place a narrow band of 10-10-10 slow-release fertilizer 2 to 3 inches beside the row of onions. Scratch it into the top 1 inch of soil and water right away to start the fertilizer working. Use about 1 lb. of fertilizer for every 100 square feet of planting space.
Pull every other onion when harvesting for the first time. This allows the red onions left in the garden more room to grow. Harvest the onions on a dry morning. Let the onions dry for the day in the shade. Later, braid the tops together and hang the red onion bunches in a cool, dry area with good air circulation.
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Miss Chen
2018年06月20日
Miss Chen
Soybean, lentil and pinto bean seeds grow rapidly, but the time it takes for a bean seed to germinate depends in part on where it sprouts. Germination of a seed in garden soil is measured from the day the seed is planted until just before its first shoot emerges above the soil. Germination outside the soil in a sprouting jar or other container usually is much shorter. Sometimes this is done as part of a science project or to produce edible sprouts.
Soybeans Soybeans are a good model for a science germination experiment, because they sprout in three to four days in petri dishes, according to the Science Project Lab website. But Michigan State University notes that germination in the soil takes six to 14 days. Cold and excess or inadequate moisture are among the conditions that can slow germination outdoors. Living Gently Quarterly notes that soybean sprouts are becoming more common in cooking. But it warns not to sprout commercial seeds intended for planting, because they are chemically treated. Lentils The Sprout People website says it takes two to three days to germinate lentil seeds in sprouters, which are typically lidded containers with holes for air circulation. If growing in the garden, lentil seeds germinate in about 10 days at 68 degrees Fahrenheit, according to the Harvest to Table website. They are hardy annuals and members of the pea family. Sprouting any bean seed involves a process of soaking and regularly rinsing the seeds until they germinate in a sprouter that is kept out of direct sunlight and stored at 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Lentil sprouts can be eaten raw or cooked.
Pinto Beans In soil, pinto beans germinate in four to eight days, according to the Texas A&M University Extension. But Sprout People says that when germinated in a sprouter, the process only takes 2 to 4 days. Unlike soybean and lentil sprouts, pinto bean sprouts are not edible unless cooked. Sprout People says they add a "delicate sweetness" to soup and that the process of sprouting alleviates some of the gaseousness associated with beans.
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Miss Chen
2018年06月20日
Miss Chen
An essential nutrient, all plants must have boron for normal, healthy growth. Because plants only require it in small quantities, it's categorized as a micronutrient. But boron is just as critical as nitrogen and other elements that plants need in larger amounts. Some vegetables prefer more of this micronutrient than other plants require, but adding boron to your vegetable garden demands great care. The range where boron helps plant growth is narrow. Too little boron causes poor vegetable production, but even slightly too much of this common element can leave soil toxic to all plant life.
What Boron Does for Plants Boron affects many aspects of plant growth, but it especially impacts fruit set and ultimate yields on vegetable crops. The element influences how vegetables process carbohydrates and move the sugars that control fruit taste, quality and color. Boron-deficient vegetables experience a breakdown of their growing points, which leaves plants stunted or deformed. Misshapen flowers inhibit good pollination and reduce fruit set and quality. Poor root growth inhibits the uptake of other essential nutrients. New growth on boron-deficient vegetables may be curled and thick or have a yellow or red tinge. Severely deficient plants fail to produce any seeds or fruit at all. Different Vegetable Requirements Vegetables differ considerably in their response to boron. Some types flourish with very little, while others show severe deficiencies at the same levels. Cauliflower and broccoli (both Brassica oleracea var. botrytis), turnips (Brassica rapa) and beets (Beta vulgaris) produce best with more boron than peas (Pisum sativum), cucumbers (Cucumis sativus) and peppers (Capsicum spp.), which need very little. Carrots (Daucus carota spp. sativa), lettuce (Lactuca sativa var. capitata), tomatoes (Lycopersicon esculentum) and radishes (Raphanus sativus) need only moderate amounts. Boron-deficient cabbage-family crops often develop hollow stems. Beets develop soft, dead spots in their centers. Even without visible symptoms, boron shortages can reduce harvests significantly. Testing Before Adding Always test your soil for boron levels before adding any type of boron product -- even common household forms. The difference between too little boron and toxic levels is small. The amount needed depends on soil type, soil pH, available soil boron, organic matter and the vegetables you desire to grow. Boron is most available in soil pH between 5 and 7. Standard soil tests may not include boron, so send samples to a soil testing laboratory for a specific test if you suspect boron levels are off. Reputable labs will tailor results to your goals. Boron is highly soluble, and it easily moves through moist soil. Deficiencies often occur in high-rainfall or high-irrigation areas or in sandy soils. Toxicities occur most often in in areas with low rainfall.
Adding Boron to Soil When boron is lacking, many products meet the need. From boron-based household products to commercial boron additives, the amount of actual boron in these products may range from 11 to 20 percent. Follow the test result recommendations precisely. Soil and Plant Laboratory, Inc. advises that boron can be toxic to some plants at levels near only 1 part per million. The actual boron needed to correct common soil deficiencies is as low as 1/2 to 1 ounce per 1,000 square feet. Apply the recommended boron to the soil, and water the area to move boron into the root zone. Wear protective clothing, including safety eyewear, and wash well with soap and water after applying the boron.
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Miss Chen
2018年06月19日
Miss Chen
Asparagus is a perennial vegetable plant that can be a long-lasting, permanent addition to a home garden. This vegetable requires well-draining soil to thrive, as waterlogged soil causes root rot. Growing asparagus in raised beds offers them proper drainage and an easier planting bed that doesn't require deep tilling.
Preparing a Raised Bed Prepare the raised bed before the last frost of the season ends. Though asparagus can tolerate some light shade, it's best to locate the raised bed in an area that gets six to eight hours of sunlight each day. Raise the bed to at least 12 inches in height to accommodate drainage and growth. Use a good-quality topsoil that is blended with compost or other organic matter such as manure or peat moss. Laying black plastic over the entire raised bed helps to retain heat within the soil for an early spring planting. Remove the black plastic when there's no more danger of frost and dig trenches six inches deep and five feet apart with a garden trowel. In each trench, sprinkle one pound of triple superphosphate (0-46-0) for every 50 feet of soil. Planting Asparagus Purchase 1-year-old asparagus crowns. For the best harvest, ensure the asparagus crowns are healthy and male. Female asparagus use too much energy on producing seeds, leaving a less-than-desirable crop production. To tell the difference, look at the seeds and size of each plant. The female asparagus plant bears berry-like seeds, while the male produces thicker spears and larger flowers. Soak the asparagus crowns in a bucket filled with warm water for one hour before planting. Plant the asparagus crowns into the trenches, about 12 inches apart, and cover with dirt. Water the plantings until the soil is moist, taking care not to saturate. Continue to water the crop once or twice per week to keep the soil moist. Spread two to three inches of peat moss throughout the asparagus bed when the tips begin to emerge from the soil, usually in one to two weeks. This will help the soil to retain more moisture and will act as a weed barrier within the raised bed.
Keep the asparagus bed free of weeds, pulling them out regularly by hand. A weedy bed means both weeds and vegetables are competing for the same nutrients and water and can cause a weak crop for future growing seasons. Harvesting Asparagus Leave the asparagus crowns to grow tall and ferny their first growing season within the raised bed. This first season will provide the asparagus crowns the energy they need to grow a more productive harvest in the years to come. Harvest a few asparagus spears when the plants are in their second growing season and reach heights of seven to nine inches tall. Cut the spears off the plant at soil level with a sharp knife. Leave half of the asparagus spears on the plant to provide energy for the third season's crop.
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Miss Chen
2018年06月19日
Miss Chen
Ohio has a mild climate, with U.S. hardiness zones of 5a to 6a. Certain micro-climates exist around the state, so growing seasons vary slightly. Plant seed potatoes in Ohio that mature in the time frame for your climate.
Varieties Early season varieties good for Ohio include superior and norland, which mature in 90 to 100 days and 80 to 90 days respectively. Planting four weeks before your expected frost date allows early harvesting of these potatoes. Hardiness Zones The southern part of Ohio warms up a few weeks earlier than the northern areas. You can plant seed potatoes in Ohio as soon as the soil is dry in your area. Select a time when no rainfall is expected. This generally happens in mid-March for southern Ohio and late April for northern Ohio.
Diseases Potatoes are not without problems and late blight has affected Ohio when spring weather is extremely wet. Control late blight disease by selecting certified seed potatoes, properly drying the potatoes before planting and waiting until the soil is dry. Northern areas of Ohio still yield an abundant harvest even when delaying planting until mid-June.
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Miss Chen
2018年06月19日
Miss Chen
Determining the best time to plant your vegetable garden in Kentucky involves more than looking at the calendar. To find the best planting date for each crop, you'll have to take into account your location within the state, the particular vegetables you're planting and when you want to harvest them.
Last Freeze Dates Learn the typical date of the spring's last freeze so you can avoid the danger of setting out freeze- and frost-sensitive plants too early. The date of the last freeze varies from year to year, of course, but knowledge of typical freeze-free dates can help you reduce the risk of planting too early. In western Kentucky, the average date of the last freeze comes relatively early; in Paducah, the median date of the last freeze is April 8. In central Kentucky, the last freeze comes somewhat later; the median last freeze in Lexington comes on April 18. In western Kentucky, freezes tend to occur even later; the median last freeze date in Ashland is May 4. Soil Conditions and Temperatures You can plant cool-season crops in the spring as soon as the soil is workable, meaning the ground is no longer frozen and the soil can be tilled. The soil should also not be so wet that it forms clumps when it's tilled or compressed in your fist. Early crops should also be planted when the air temperature is relatively cool -- between 50 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit, so the plants have time to develop before the heat of late spring and summer begins. Cool-Season Crops Cool-season crops are not vulnerable to damage from frost, and they can be planted in Kentucky even before the danger of spring frosts has passed. Cool-season crops include broccoli (Brassica oleracea (Italica group)), cabbage (Brassica oleracea (Capitata group)), lettuce (Lactuca sativa) and onions (Allium cepa).
On average, the earliest planting date for cabbage and lettuce is March 15 in western Kentucky, March 25 in central Kentucky, April 1 in eastern Kentucky. The earliest planting date for broccoli plants is March 30 in the west, April 5 in the central part of the state, April 10 in the east. Onion sets can be planted as early as March 1 in the west, March 10 in central Kentucky and March 15 in the east. Warm-Season Crops Warm-season crops will be injured by frost, so they can't be planted until after frost danger has passed in the spring. Warm-season crops include tomatoes (Lycopersicon esculentum), cucumbers (Cucumis sativus), peppers (Capsicum annuum) and summer squash (Cucurbita pepo). The earliest safe planting date for tomato plants is April 20 in western Kentucky, May 5 in central Kentucky and May 15 in eastern Kentucky. The earliest planting date for cucumbers is April 20 in the west, May 1 in the central part of the state, May 10 in the east. Pepper plants can be planted around May 1 in the west, May 10 in central Kentucky, May 20 in the east. Summer squash safe-planting dates are April 20 in the west, May 10 in the central region, May 15 in the east. Fall Crops A second planting of cool-season crops during the summer will allow you to take advantage of the cooler weather of the late season to produce a fall harvest. Planting should be timed so that the young plants are not subjected to the hottest summer temperatures, but so they have enough time to mature before hard freezes in the late fall. Plant cabbage, for example, by July 1 in western Kentucky, July 15 in central Kentucky and August 1 in eastern Kentucky. Plant lettuce by August 1 in the west, August 15 in the central region and September 1 in the east.
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Miss Chen
2018年06月19日
Miss Chen
The average American adult eats more than his weight in potatoes (Solanum tuberosum) every year. This annual crop -- a staple in diets the world over -- can be harvested for immediate eating or stored for later use. Be sure to get them all safely stored before they are subjected to a hard frost, or you may lose your crop. Potatoes come in many different varieties, but all are harvested in the same manner.
Watch the Vines One of the best indicators for deciding when to harvest your potatoes is the condition of the vines. Let your potatoes grow until the vines die, drying out and turning brown. This very visual clue tells you it is time to harvest. This is not the same as what happens when the vines freeze; frozen vines will turn black and begin to rot. Before you dig up all of your potatoes, check them for readiness to make sure that they are mature enough to harvest and will store well. Cured potatoes can be stored at a temperature of around 40 degrees Fahrenheit. Check for Readiness After the potato vines have died, leave the potatoes in the ground another two or three weeks. Next, you'll need to check your potatoes for maturity. Carefully dig up one or two hills of potatoes and pick up some of the tubers. Rub the skin with your thumb or fingers. If the skin slides or rubs off easily, your potatoes are not ready for harvest and won't store well if you dig them now. Leave the rest of your crop in the ground a few more days and then check again. Eat immature potatoes soon after digging, since you won't be able to store them. Watch the Calendar Seed potatoes used for planting indicate how long it will be from the time you plant them until they are mature, usually from 80 to about 115 days. Consider the times a guideline, since variables in soil conditions, climate and rainfall can all affect how long it takes your potatoes to be ready. Mark the planting date on your calendar and then mark the potential maturity date. Start checking your potatoes near the maturity date and harvest them when they are large enough and the skins don't slip.
Early Potato Harvest You don't have to wait for potatoes to mature before harvesting some of them. Small, immature potatoes, generally called new potatoes, can be harvested any time after the tubers have begun to form and are an inch or more in diameter. Loosen the soil near a potato vine and carefully dig into the hill or ridge where the potatoes are growing. Remove just enough for immediate use because immature potatoes can't be stored. Replace the dirt to let the rest of the potatoes continue growing.
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Miss Chen
2018年06月19日
Miss Chen
Zucchini are summer garden favorites, growing quickly and easily and producing such abundant crops that they inspire the old joke that you'll run out of friends before you run out of extra zucchini. After you sow your zucchini seeds into your garden, you will watch the plant grow, emerging as a tiny seedling and, within a few months, sprawling as a long vine across your garden, producing flowers and, eventually, fruits.
Germination Hold a zucchini seed in your hand and you are holding the raw materials for one of your garden's largest and most productive plants. The zucchini's life begins with germination, when soil temperatures warm to about 70 degrees Fahrenheit, causing the seed to absorb large quantities of water. Water triggers the embryo to begin growing, and soon, it exceeds the tight confines of the seed coat and bursts free. The root emerges first, correctly orienting and anchoring the seed in the soil. Next, the primitive leaves, called cotyledons, stretch upward, pushing aside the soil and reaching for the light. Growth Zucchini grow in two forms: bush, or determinate, and vining, or indeterminate. Growth from a tiny seedling into these large forms requires rapid mitosis, a process during which cells make an extra copy of their genetic material and split into two cells. Growth occurs in a part of the plant called the meristem, which you can find at the growing end of a zucchini vine, the tips of the roots and in the nodes, points along the stem that develop into leaves and flowers. The ability of the zucchini plant to produce so many different structures from a single type of cell allows the plant to grow rapidly, producing edible fruits within a matter of a few months.
Reproduction During the final stage of the zucchini's life, it concentrates its energy on producing seeds to ensure the survival of the next generation. When the days lengthen in midsummer, meristems along the vine grow into flower buds. Zucchini, like all members of the squash family, produce male and female flowers separately on a single vine and rely on bees to carry pollen from male flowers to female flowers. Once pollination occurs, the pollen grows into a tube that enters the ovary of the female flower and deposits sperm cells where they can fertilize the egg within. Each ovule within the ovary develops into a separate seed, and the wall of the ovary thickens into a fleshy fruit coat, the tasty green fruit that you recognize as zucchini.
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Miss Chen
2018年06月18日
Miss Chen
Description: This herbaceous perennial plant is unbranched and about 3-6' tall. The central stem is smooth and sometimes reddish. The alternate compound leaves are up to 2' long. They are often yellowish green, and become much smaller and sparser while ascending the central stem. Each compound leaf consists of 1-7 palmate leaflets that are aligned along each reddish leaf-stem in succession. Each leaflet is up to 6" long and across and has 2-5 cleft lobes. The margins are coarsely dentate. The inflorescence occurs on a long naked stalk, consisting of a panicle of pink buds and flowers about 5-8" across. Each flower is about 1/3" across, consisting of 5 pink petals and numerous long white stamens with pink anthers. The overall appearance of the inflorescence resembles wind-tossed fluff or foam, and is quite beautiful. The flowers bloom from the bottom up, and have little or no fragrance. The blooming period occurs from early to mid-summer, and lasts about 3 weeks. Afterwards, straight reddish fruits develop that are about ¼–½" across. The root system consists of a taproot and rhizomes. Queen-of-the-Prairie tends to form colonies under moist conditions. Cultivation: The preference is full or partial sun, and wet to moist conditions. The soil should be high in organic content, and can contain a little sand. The cooler climate of the Great Lakes region is preferred, rather than hot, dry summer heat. Occasionally, the leaves become spotted from foliar disease, otherwise it is not subject to any special problems.
Range & Habitat: The native Queen-of-the-Prairie occurs primarily in scattered counties along the upper basin of the Illinois River and in the Chicago area. It has also been observed in east central Illinois (see Distribution Map), where it has been successfully introduced. This uncommon plant is listed as 'threatened' in Illinois. Habitats include moist black soil prairies, moist sand prairies, moist meadows along rivers in woodland areas, shrubby fens, and wet areas in or around seeps and springs. This is an indicator plant of high quality habitats, although in some areas it has been introduced as part of restoration efforts. Faunal Associations: The colorful flowers provide pollen as a reward for insect visitors, but not nectar. Various species of bees collect pollen from the flowers and probably are the most important pollinators. Beetles and flies feed on the pollen. Wasps and butterflies may land on the flowers looking for nectar, but their search will be futile. Little is known about the floral-fauna relationships for birds and mammals. The foliage doesn't seem to be bothered by deer and other herbivorous mammals.
Photographic Location: The photographs were taken at Meadowbrook Park in Urbana, Illinois. Comments: This is a wonderful plant, if only it would bloom longer! In prairies, the pink flowers rise above the surrounding vegetation and can be seen from a considerable distance. It has a very distinctive appearance, and can't be confused with any other native plant. However, the introduced Filipendula ulmaria (Queen-of-the-Meadow) is somewhat similar. This latter species differs from Queen-of-the-Prairie by having white flowers and twisted fruits.
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