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Miss Chen
2022年05月18日
Miss Chen
The namers of this coneflower cultivar got it right: The chief selling point of 'Firebird' coneflower is its fiery flower color. Its bright orange color makes it one of the best perennials to grow in full sun. The genus name Echinacea derives from the Greek word for "hedgehog," and its flowers' cones look like a network of tiny needles, much like the animal. The flower has a "shuttlecock" shape like a birdie in badminton. The leaves of this perennial are dark green and have a clumping habit. When the flowers first form, they, too, are green. The Firebird is fast-growing, germinating in about three weeks. However, it's a biennial, usually only blooming in its second growth year. It's best to plant it in the spring or fall. Botanical Name Echinacea 'Firebird' Common Name Coneflower, echinacea Plant Type Herbaceous, perennial Mature Size 36 inches in height with a 36-inch spread Sun Exposure Full, partial Soil Type Well-drained, sandy, clay, loamy Soil pH 6.5 to 7.0 Bloom Time June through October Flower Color Reddish-orange Hardiness Zones 4 to 8 (USDA) Native Area North America Fireball Coneflower Care This orange coneflower cultivar looks much like a type of wildflower and is used in a meadow planting. As it is drought resistant, it is often used in rock gardens and is useful for xeriscaping. The plant is valued as a long-blooming perennial and works well with other sun-loving perennials. Its fiery color will attract hummingbirds and it's also a butterfly and rabbit magnet. It is deer resistant but may attract slugs, snails, and cutworms. Neem oil or another organic insecticide soap should keep the bugs at bay. Light Coneflowers of all kinds thrive in full or partial sun, tolerating the heat without a problem. These plants need at least five hours of sunlight a day. Water This plant is drought tolerant. It only needs about an inch of water every week. Soil Coneflowers prefer well-draining fertile soil. However, it's not a fussy plant and can still live in poor soil. Temperature and Humidity Most coneflowers are cold-hardy in zones 3 to 8, including the Firebird variety. This means that they can be grown in most areas of the USA. They love the hot, dry heat of summer and can handle some humidity but do not like moist, soggy soil. Fertilizer At planting, you can give it fertilizer or humus-rich compost but go light with it. You may end up with lush foliage but fewer flowers. Pruning Gardeners may deadhead the flowers for aesthetic reasons; it doesn't promote reblooming (they will rebloom on their own). Propagating Firebird Coneflowers If your plant looks to be losing its vitality or overcrowding in its container or spot, divide the plants in the spring. These plants can grow from seeds, division of existing plants, or root cuttings. How to Grow Firebird Coneflowers From Seed These plants propagate easily from seeds. They prefer cold stratification (or storing the seeds just below freezing for two to three months, such as a fridge or freezer door). Warming up triggers the growth cycle for the seeds. Plant the seeds in the spring well after the last frost with temperatures in the 60s. Plant the seeds 1 to 3 feet apart. Germination begins after about 4 weeks. After 12 weeks, you should start seeing several sets of leaves. Unfortunately, coneflowers usually do not flower the first growing season. Potting and Repotting Firebird Coneflowers Firebird coneflower is a good selection for planting in outdoor pots and containers. It can grow about 3 feet tall and 3 feet wide. As far as the type of container, it makes a great thriller centerpiece. Plant it near the center of the pot surrounded by smaller plants that are "fillers" to fill in the spaces and "spillers" that spill over the pot. When growing plants in outdoor containers and baskets, they often require more frequent waterings than they would in the yard or garden. Overwintering You may need to give the plant some protection in the first winter in your garden, but after this, they are tough and rugged.
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Miss Chen
2022年05月16日
Miss Chen
Common tansy (Tanacetum vulgare) is a weed-like perennial flower that grows from rhizomatous roots and is also known as bitter buttons, cow bitter, and golden buttons. While now considered invasive in North America, at one time the plant was an important culinary herb in Europe. Given its pedigree in the European tradition, it is not surprising that tansy flowers were soon brought to the New World by American colonists and granted a position of garden prominence. From there, however, it soon naturalized into surrounding areas and is now viewed as a noxious weed over large areas of the United States.1 The name is derived from the Greek athanatos, meaning immortality, either because it is long-lived or because tansy was used for embalming in ancient times. In Greek mythology, Zeus was said to have made Ganymede immortal by giving the him tansy on Mount Olympus. Now, however, tansy has been listed by watchdog groups as one of the worst invasive plants in North America.2 Tansy can be identified by its aromatic, fern-like foliage, and bright yellow button-like flowers that appear in flat-topped clusters in summer. The leaves bear a similarity to yarrow, which is also a member of the Asteraceae family of plants. Botanical Name Tanacetum vulgare Common Names Common tansy, bitter buttons, cow bitter, golden buttons Plant Type Herbaceous perennial flowering plant Mature Size 2 to 4 feet tall, 12- to 18-inch spread Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade Soil Type Well-drained, fertile soil Soil pH 4.8 to 7.5 Bloom Time July and August Flower Color Yellow Hardiness Zones 3 to 8 (USDA) Native Area Temperate regions of Europe and Asia, naturalized over much of North America Toxicity Toxic to humans, dogs, cats, and livestock.
How to Care for Common Tansy Common tansy is a low-maintenance plant that requires very little care on the part of the gardener. Although it is considered an invasive plant, it does have its uses. When properly harvested and dried, the bright yellow button flowers produce a soft yellow dye. The plant's history as a strewing herb still bears out today as Common Tansy will repel flies and other pesky insects. Additionally, tansy flowers add potassium to soil and attract an important beneficial insect, the ladybug.2 If you're considering growing tansy flowers, make sure to clip off the spent flowers to prevent this troublesome plant from self-seeding. Keep in mind that the sale of these "noxious-weed seeds" are prohibited in Montana and Wyoming.3 The plant itself is prohibited to be sold or grown in Colorado, Minnesota, Montana, Wyoming, parts of Washington state, and the Alberta and British Columbia provinces in Canada. Light Tansy flowers grow best in full sun, though they can tolerate part shade. Soil This perennial plant prefers well-drained, fertile garden soil but tolerate almost any soil conditions. Water Tansy can tolerate drought and does not need regular watering. Temperature and Humidity Tansy flowers are winter hardy to minus-40 degrees Fahrenheit. The leaves will turn brown, curl, and dry up in extreme prolonged heat.4 Pruning Common Tansy One of the best methods for keeping tansy under control is deadheading the flowers. Cut the foliage and flower stems to the ground every year to keep growth in check. Tansy roots go deep so be prepared to do some heavy shovel lifting if you want to remove the plant completely. You can also try spot spraying with a broad spectrum weed killer. Always use caution, and wear protective clothing, gloves and goggles, when using chemical herbicides.
Common Tansy vs. Tansy Ragwort Do not confuse this plant with "tansy ragwort" (Senecio jacobea), which is a different plant altogether. Tansy ragwort is a winter annual, biennial or short-lived perennial that is also considered a noxious weed. Common Pests and Plant Diseases Since the heavily scented leaves of common tansy act as insect repellent, the plant is not vulnerable to pests or disease. Unfortunately, unless measures are undertaken to control its spread, the plant itself could turn out to be the biggest problem.
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Miss Chen
2022年05月14日
Miss Chen
Rue is a short-lived perennial herb with a small, shrub-like growth habit. It features aromatic, blue-green foliage with a fern-like appearance. And in the summertime, it sports clusters of small yellow flowers that attract butterflies and other pollinators to the garden, as well as parasitic wasps. The ornamental herb has a moderate growth rate and should be planted in the spring after danger of frost has passed. Be aware that despite their past as a traditional use as a medicinal herb, rue leaves are toxic both to people1 and pets2. Common Name Rue, common rue, garden rue, herb of grace Botanical Name Ruta graveolens Family Rutaceae Plant Type Perennial, herb Size 2–3 feet tall and wide Sun Exposure Full sun Soil Type Well-drained Soil pH Acidic, neutral, alkaline (6.5 to 8.5) Bloom Time Summer Hardiness Zones 4–10 (USDA) Native Area Europe Toxicity Toxic to people, toxic to pets How to Plant Rue When to Plant Rue is normally planted from potted nursery starts or from seeds in the garden once spring soil temperatures reach around 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Seeds will germinate in one to four weeks.
Selecting a Planting Site If you choose a sunny site with good drainage for your rue plants, they almost certainly will thrive with virtually no care. Rue flowers are good candidates for tough sites and will even grow in gravel. If your garden has heavy or wet soil, consider container culture. Avoid putting the plants near walkways or other areas where you might come in contact with them, as the sap can cause skin irritation.3 Spacing, Depth, and Support Smooth the soil of your garden site prior to planting, and break up any soil clumps. Then, simply scatter the seeds over the moist soil surface and slightly press them in, as they need light to germinate. Space plants around 1 to 2 feet apart. Do not allow seedlings to dry out. A support structure typically won’t be necessary, as rue naturally has an upright growth habit. Rue Plant Care Light Rue grows best in full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days. But partial shade is also tolerated. However, plants will produce fewer flowers in the shade. Soil Sharp drainage is important for healthy rue plants. Add sand, perlite, or vermiculite to the soil to help drainage. Or use raised beds with prepared soil in gardens where heavy clay dominates. Rue likes a moderately rich soil but can tolerate poor soils. And it can grow in a slightly acidic to slightly alkaline soil pH. Water Once established, common rue is very drought tolerant and is a good candidate for a xeriscape or rock garden. You won't need to water except for periods of extensive dry weather. Avoid overwatering, which can cause root rot. Temperature and Humidity Rue plants thrive in hot weather and low humidity, similar to their native habitat of Greece, Turkey, and Italy. However, the plants are tolerant of humidity as long as they have good soil drainage and air circulation around them. Fertilizer Do not fertilize rue plants. Excess nutrients will cause the plants to produce more foliage at the expense of the flowers. Pollination Garden pollinators, including bees and butterflies, are highly attracted to rue and assist it in its pollination. Types of Rue There are several varieties of rue, including: ‘Blue Beauty’: This plant has especially vivid blue-green leaves. ‘Jackman’s Blue’: This variety features a strong blue color and a potent aroma. ‘Variegata’: The leaves on this variety have some white in them. Rue vs. Fenugreek As another bitter herb that bears small yellow flowers, it's easy to confuse fenugreek (Trigonella foenum-graecum) with rue. Fenugreek, however, is an annual legume and does not have some of the toxic properties that rue flowers do. You can grow fenugreek in the sunny garden after all danger of frost has passed and use the ground seeds in curries or the leaves in salads. Harvesting Rue Rue is often harvested to use as dried flowers. And some people make sachets out of rue and use them to deter pests, including fleas and ants. Wear gloves and long sleeves when working with rue to protect your skin. Cut a mature plant at ground level with pruners. Then, hang it in a dark, dry place to dry until the leaves become brittle. Keep the fully dried rue in an airtight container until you’re ready to use it for sachets or other purposes. How to Grow Rue in Pots If you don’t have garden space or have heavy soil, container growth is a good option for rue. Choose a pot that’s around 12 to 16 inches wide and deep, and make sure it has drainage holes. An unglazed clay container is ideal because it will allow excess soil moisture to escape through its walls. Pruning Rue is a semi-woody perennial that flowers on new growth. To keep the plant vigorous and looking its best, cut stems back to around 6 inches in the early spring. Don’t wait too long, or you’ll end up pruning off some flower buds. You also can prune in the fall after flowering is finished. Propagating Rue It's easy to make new rue plants via stem cuttings. This is a quick and inexpensive way to replace mature plants that are nearing the end of their life cycle, as rue plants only live around five years. The best time to take cuttings is in the late summer from new growth, but be sure to wear protective clothing during the process. Here's how: Cut roughly a 6-inch piece of stem from new growth. Remove any foliage on the lower half of the cutting. Plant the cutting in a container of moistened soilless potting mix. Place in a clear bag to maintain moisture. Keep the mix moist but not soggy. Once you feel resistance when you gently tug on the stem, you'll know roots have developed. How to Grow Rue From Seed Rue is easy to start from seeds in the garden or in trays. The soil must be at least 68 degrees Fahrenheit for germination, and some light must reach the seeds. When the seedlings develop at least two sets of true leaves, they can be transplanted into larger pots. Harden off seedlings before planting in the garden. Rue plants will self-seed, sometimes aggressively, in warm regions. You can collect the brown seed capsules in late summer after flowering to plant elsewhere. Potting and Repotting Rue You can use any well-draining potting mix for rue in containers. Repotting is necessary when you see roots coming out of the drainage holes of the pot. Remember to wear protective clothing when repotting. The bluish foliage of rue plants marries well with plants that have golden foliage, such as the gold cultivars of oregano, sage, or thyme. These herbs all like the same sunny, dry conditions and well-drained soil that rue thrives in, so they blend well in mixed containers. Overwintering In the northern portion of rue’s growing zones, add a layer of mulch around the plants to protect them over the winter. Aim to do this before frost hits in the fall. Common Pests and Plant Diseases Rue doesn’t have any major pest or disease issues. In fact, if you see caterpillars feeding on your rue plants, don't spray them. It's likely they are swallowtail butterfly caterpillars, which use rue as a host plant and benefit your entire garden. The primary disease issue that can affect rue is root rot from wet soils. So ensure that your plants are never waterlogged.
FAQ Is rue easy to grow? Rue requires very little maintenance as long as it has a sunny spot with well-draining soil. How long does it take to grow rue? Rue has a moderate growth rate and will germinate in one to four weeks. Does rue come back every year? Rue is a perennial, coming back every year, but it doesn't tend to be long-lived. However, it will self-seed to produce new plants in the garden.
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Miss Chen
2022年05月11日
Miss Chen
Mugwort (Artemesia vulgaris) is a perennial herb with a long history. This is an aromatic plant, thought to promote and enhance dreaming during sleep. It has been used over many centuries as a bitter-tasting tonic for digestive disorders and as a flavoring agent in cooking and distilling. The dried leaves have antifungal and antiseptic properties, too. Common mugwort is just one of more than 500 Artemisia species, all of which are part of the Asteraceae (daisy) family. Traditionally grown for culinary and medicinal purposes, this aromatic plant has ornamental value in a wild or meadow garden setting. It's known for being attractive to pollinators like bees and butterflies.
A robust species with strong, woody roots that help support its impressive height—mugwort can grow up to six feet tall. Its attractive foliage develops interesting gray-green tones, and the dark green erect stems have a distinct purple hue. During the summer, mugwort displays small red, pink, orange, and yellow flowers. Although they aren't as showy as a lot of prized garden plants, they look lovely in dried flower arrangements. Their height means they can act as an attractive backdrop for smaller border or walled garden plants, and they also give off a pleasant sage-like fragrance. Mugwort is fast-spreading and is classed as an invasive noxious weed in some parts of the United States. You should always check before planting, and be aware that it can quickly choke out less robust plants in its vicinity. Common wormwood (Artemisia absinthium) is frequently mistaken for mugwort, and vice versa. While they're closely related, they're completely separate species. Mugwort can be identified through its foliage which has white hairs on the undersides, and the leaves have sharp edges, rather than the blunt type seen on wormwood. Botanical Name Artemisia vulgaris Common Name Common mugwort Plant Type Herbaceous perennial Mature Size Up to 6 feet tall Sun Exposure Full sun / partial shade Soil Type Tolerates a variety of well-drained types Soil pH Tolerates a variety Bloom Time Summer and early fall Flower Color Yellowish to reddish-brown Hardiness Zones 3 to 8 Native Area Asia, Europe and North Africa How to Care for Mugwort Although it prefers plenty of sun and well-draining soil, once it's established, mugwort is hardy, drought-tolerant, and can cope with a variety of conditions. It's even thought that infertile soils and dry conditions can increase the longevity and aromatic intensity of the plant, and it won't grow as tall. Mugworts rhizomatous roots spread quickly, and their seeds disperse across a wide area. This is why they're often classed as invasive. If you still want to grow mugwort, but have concerns about their invasive nature, planting them in containers or in isolation could be considered. Check with your local extension office before planting. Light Mugwort prefers a location where they'll receive full sunlight during the day. They can, however, still cope in partial shade, too. Soil Mugwort is tolerant of a variety of soil types, including those with high alkalinity or nitrogen content. Although it prefers slightly moist and well-draining soils, it survives well in dry and infertile conditions. In fact, although the plants won't grow as high, it can result in more aromatic and long-lived specimens. Water This plant doesn't appreciate being over-watered. Excessively wet soils will usually result in root rot. Young plants benefit from watering to keep the soil lightly moist, but once mugwort is well-established, it's pretty drought-tolerant. Temperature and Humidity This species is known for surviving across a wide range of temperatures. If you live in a region that experiences high heat and humidity during the summer, however, the foliage can begin to droop and won't look as healthy. The thick and tall stems can be prone to flopping too. Propagating Mugwort Mugwort can be easily propagated via basal cuttings or by dividing the rhizomatous roots. Division of the roots can be done in the spring (before the new foliage appears) or fall, and establishing a cutting is best done in the late spring when new growth starts to appear. Harvesting Mugwort harvesting can be done at different times of the year, depending on how you plan to use it. It's most commonly harvested in the fall in advance of the first frosts. The top third of the plant can be cut off and hung in a dry and shady position to dry out. Growing From Seeds Mugwort seeds are best sown close to the soil surface in the early spring after a period of cold stratification. They appreciate plenty of light and should be kept moist.
Pruning Like most herbs, mugwort will thrive with repeated pruning throughout the growing season. You can take up to a foot off the top, which will encourage branching and help give mugwort its appealing shrubby look. In regions with colder winters, this plant can also be cut back to the ground for overwintering. New shoots will begin to show in mid-spring once they are two to three feet tall, you should begin the pruning process.
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Miss Chen
2022年05月09日
Miss Chen
English ivy (Hedera helix) is an evergreen perennial. It is also classified as a woody vine. English ivy can act as a ground cover, spreading horizontally. But it is also a climber, due to its aerial rootlets, which allows it to climb to 80 feet high. he plant will eventually bear insignificant greenish flowers, but it is grown primarily for its evergreen leaves. In this regard, ivy can be classified as a foliage plant. The best time to plant English ivy is spring. It is a fast, aggressive grower that is considered invasive in many areas. Keep a watchful eye on children and pets because English ivy is toxic to humans and animals.1 Common Name English ivy, common ivy, European ivy Botanical Name Hedera helix Family Araliaceae Plant Type Perennial, evergreen climbing vine Mature Size N/A; climbs and spreads as much as possible Sun Exposure Part shade to full shade Soil Type Fertile and moist Soil pH Neutral to slightly alkaline Bloom Time Fall Flower Color Greenish-white, greenish-yellow Hardiness Zones 4-13 (USDA) Native Area Europe, Scandinavia, Russia Toxicity Toxic to people and pets English Ivy Care To the ancient Greeks and Romans, glossy-leafed, dark green ivy was sacred to the god Dionysus (Bacchus in Rome), and the pagan druids reflected on ivy in the Christmas carol, "The Holly and the Ivy," where the plant represents female divinity. This plant continued to impact ancient cultures as its evergreen vines physically covered vast areas of Europe without much intervention.
The fact that English ivy plants spread quickly means that they can be useful as ground cover for filling in hard-to-plant spots in your landscaping. Their aggressive nature suggests that they could be effective allies against erosion on hillsides. At home indoors or out, English ivy does well planted in containers or baskets where its trailing vines can hang down. Ivy needs protection from winter winds as well as the hot summer sun, so plant appropriately. English ivy is considered invasive in many areas, including the Pacific Northwest, California, several Southeast states, and parts of the Midwest. Before planting English ivy, consult a local extension office to confirm that it is not considered an invasive species in your area. English ivy is also widely known to be capable of causing damage to trees and brickwork. Light English ivy plants grow well in part shade to full shade. The ability to grow in shade has made English ivy a traditional ground cover for planting under trees, where most grasses may not grow well. Since ivy is vigorous and has a dense growth habit, it's an effective ground cover if your objective is to crowd out weeds. Ivy grown indoors needs bright, indirect light in summer but can benefit from some direct light in winter. Soil Grow this evergreen vine in well-drained soil. Although it will grow in poor soils and soils of a wide range of pH levels, it does best in average loams. A thick layer of mulch helps keep the soil moist in dry climates. Indoors, ivy does best in potting mix that is loose and well-drained.
Water When watering your ivy, always check the soil before adding water. Ivy prefers to be kept slightly on the dry side, so let the soil dry out some (dry to the touch on top) before you water your ivy plants again. Indoor or outdoor ivy prefers evenly moist but not soggy soil. Also, make sure that your plant has excellent drainage. Ivy should not be kept in standing water or overly wet soil. Temperature and Humidity English Ivy plants grow best in temperatures between 70 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit. Their leaves will stay dark green when grown in steady temperatures and medium to high humidity. It does not like cold winter wind or high summer heat. In some areas and with some species of ivy, it's possible to keep potted plants outdoors in winter, and new growth emerges from the stems in spring. Fertilizer Feed English ivy every two weeks during the spring and summer season, using a 20-20-20 fertilizer (or a 2-2-2 organic formula). Do not use fertilizer or plant food if the plant is in a stressful situation: very hot, very cold, or very dry soil, or when leaf production has stopped. Pruning Use clean and sharp cutting shears to trim ground cover plants in the spring to keep them manageable and discourage bacterial leaf spot. Prune any ivy into a bushy shape by pinching off its growing tips, also in spring. A hard pruning every few years helps revitalize the plant. If English ivy is already climbing one of your trees, be careful if you wish to remove it. Do not just rip a vine off, which could hurt the tree's bark. Instead, cut each vine where you find it coming out of the soil at the base of the tree, where it begins its ascent. When cut off from the earth (and thus from a water source), the part of the vine left anchored in the tree bark will eventually wither and die. This removal technique is the best way to get rid of the plant organically, but it does require some patience. You will need to go back year after year and cut new growth until all strength has been sapped out of the plant. It is only at this point that new shoots will stop emerging every spring. Propagating English Ivy The same trimmings or stem cuttings that you take from pruning your ivy can be used to propagate new plants taking these easy steps: Use healthy stems that are 4 to 5 inches long. Submerge the cut ends in water and wait for roots to develop. Transfer the stems to a pot or the ground. Plants grown as ground cover naturally spread when stems contact the soil and take root; you can cut rooted stems and dig them up to move them to a pot or a different garden location. Potting and Repotting English Ivy Some gardeners grow these plants in hanging baskets, letting them cascade over the sides. Indeed, considering their invasive quality, this is a very sensible way to grow the vines for their beauty without having to worry that they will spread out of control. Small ivy plants can be repotted once a year, while larger plants can be repotted every two years. Always repot with new potting soil to ensure adequate nutrition. Older plants that can use a boost often can be revived by simply replacing the soil in the same container. Common Pests & Plant Diseases English ivy may become host to aphids, spider mites, mealybugs, and other pests, which can usually be sprayed off with water and can be controlled with neem oil or insecticidal soap.1 One homemade remedy for aphids is to spray the foliage with a mixture of dish soap and water. Diseases that affect ivy include bacterial leaf spot and root rot.3 Leaf spot appears as black or dark brown spotting on the plant foliage. Unfortunately, the best remedy is to remove the affected plants. Help protect any remaining plants by spraying them with a 10-to-1 mixture of water to vinegar. Root rot is typically caused by warm and humid weather and can be fatal to affected plants. Again, removal is the best remedy. Unaffected remaining plants can be treated with fungicide for protection.
FAQ Is English ivy easy to care for? Outdoors, English ivy needs little to no care for it to thrive. Indoors, you'll need to pay a bit more attention to the plant. How fast does English ivy grow? Since English ivy is aggressive, it can grow rapidly. It establishes quickly outdoors (within months). English ivy grows slower indoors and can take at least a year to establish itself before it has a growth spurt. Can English ivy grow indoors? English ivy can be grown indoors, where it thrives with relatively cool nights and frequent misting to maintain humidity. However, it is generally considered to be a finicky houseplant, despite its being a common offering at garden centers.
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Miss Chen
2022年05月07日
Miss Chen
The sweet floral scent of honeysuckle in the air is a sure tell that summer has arrived. The honeysuckle family (Lonicera spp.) includes 180 species of low-maintenance deciduous and evergreen shrubs or climbers with twining stems.1 Many have naturalized in the United States and some are native to specific regions of the country. If you plan to include this old time favorite in your landscape, be sure to do your homework. Other species of honeysuckle are highly invasive and prohibited in parts of the country. Check with your local cooperative extension to make sure the variety you choose can be planted in your region. The tubular or two-lipped showy honeysuckle flowers are easy for bees and hummingbirds to slip into. After the yellow, red, pink, purple, or white blooms fade, you'll find lot of juicy berries in the fall. Depending on the variety, honeysuckle grows hardy in USDA zones 4 through 10. Common honeysuckle (Lonicera periclymenum) is also called European honeysuckle or woodbine. Native to Europe, North Africa and western Asia, it has naturalized in some areas of North America such as Nova Scotia, Ontario, New England and the Pacific Northwest. It is a deciduous shrub with a vine-like habit, growing 10 feet tall and occasionally to 20 feet tall. Leaves are ovate to obovate, about two inches long, appearing on the stems in pairs. Leaves are dark green above and blue-green underneath. Two shades of green appear in the center of the leaf, which has creamy white edges. New leaves emerge in spring and mature as smooth leaves by summer, becoming hot pink in autumn. Buds are pink. Colorful flowers open with ivory interiors and purple exteriors. Two-lipped flowers, each two inches long, bloom steadily in summer and more sporadically in autumn to frost, in three to five whorled terminal spikes that give way to glossy, red berries. Honeysuckle also has strong nocturnally scented flowers attracting large pollinating hawk moths that roam dense bushy and woodland areas.
How to Grow and Care for Rosemary Botanical Name Lonicera periclymenum Common Names Common Honeysuckle, European Honeysuckle, Woodbine Plant Type Deciduous shrub with a vine-like growth habit Mature Size 12 to 20 ft. tall Sun Exposure Dappled sunlight Soil Type Moist, well-drained soils Soil pH Neutral; tolerates both acidic and alkaline Bloom Time Spring, summer, fall Flower Colors Crimson purple outside and yellow and white inside Hardiness Zones 5-9, USDA Native Area Europe, Northern Africa, Southwest Asia Common Honeysuckle Care Tie young vining honeysuckle to a vertical stake to support its growth. Establish the stake before planting to avoid disturbing the soil or roots. If you plan to include common honeysuckle in your landscape, be sure to do your homework. Other species of honeysuckle are highly invasive and prohibited in parts of the country. Check with your local extension office to make sure the variety you choose can be planted in your region. Light Common honeysuckle prefers dappled sunlight, but it will grow in full sun to part shade. Give the plant a similar environment to its native habitat of scrub and woods. If possible, shade the roots and let the plant climb towards the sun. Soil Give common honeysuckle any fertile, rich, well-drained soil. Water Water newly planted honeysuckle consistently. Keep the soil evenly moist until the plant shows signs of vigorous growth. Once established, it is quite drought tolerant. Water only if summer droughts last two weeks or more, offering at least one inch of water per week. Adding about two inches of organic mulch around the plant's base will prevent water from evaporating. Temperature and Humidity Honeysuckles usually thrive best in cooler regions with cooler summer climates. Place in part afternoon shade where summers are especially hot.
Fertilizer If planted in fertile soil, the honeysuckle will grow vigorously without any added fertilizer. If needed, encourage blooming by applying a low-nitrogen fertilizer in spring such as 2-10-10, 0-10-10 or 15-25-10. Too much nitrogen will encourage more growth in the leaves and not enough in the flowers. Such "flushes of foliage growth" could make the plant more susceptible to pests. Learn to read and understand garden fertilizer labels to give each plant exactly what it needs. Pruning Once established, most honeysuckle plants will grow vigorously. Prune your common honeysuckle as you would any shrub or vine, removing dead or damaged twigs and branches throughout the season but save any hard pruning for after bloom. Early-blooming vining varieties that bloom on last year's growth, like common honeysuckle (Lonicera periclymenum), benefit from being cut back by one-third after the blooming period is over. If the vine gets out of control, cut it two feet above the ground. Other Varieties Early Dutch Honeysuckle (Lonicera periclymenum 'Belgica' ) plants bear streaked, raspberry red flowers. A popular woodbine (Lonicera periclymenum 'Serotina') produces flowers that are dark red on the outside and yellow and white inside. Berries Jubilee (Lonicera periclymenum 'Monul') have yellow flowers, giving fruit to bright red berries. Propagating Common Honeysuckle Semi-ripe cuttings can be taken for propagation in summer. Put the cuttings in a well-draining soil and wait for them to take root. Common Pests and Diseases While there are rarely any serious insect or disease issues, watch for honeysuckle aphids and scale. Leaf roller, dieback, and blights may also arise. Growing honeysuckle in regions with hot and humid summers could result in powdery mildew and leaf spots, which is why it's best to grow honeysuckle in cooler regions where it will thrive.
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Miss Chen
2022年05月05日
Miss Chen
If you are looking for a flower to add to a charming cottage garden, look no further than the common hollyhock (Alcea rosea). This traditional garden favorite can grow up to 8 feet tall with large, heart-shaped foliage and long-blooming ornamental flowers. This biennial herbaceous plant adds plenty of interest, and readily self-seeds to provide new growth year after year. You can plant hollyhocks in late summer when growing from seed, and they will bloom the following year. Botanical Name Alcea rosea Common Name Common hollyhock Family Malvaceae Plant Type Biennial, Herbaceous Mature Size 6-8 ft. tall, 1 to 2 ft. wide Sun Exposure Full sun Soil Type Moist, Well-drained Soil pH Acid, Neutral, Alkaline Bloom Time Summer Flower Color White, Pink, Red, Yellow, Lavender Hardiness Zones 2-10, USA Native Area Turkey How to Grow and Care for Aloe Common Hollyhock Care These adaptable plants can grow in a range of conditions but aren't fans of wet winter soils. Hollyhocks grow on strong, sturdy stems which will stay upright without staking when planted in a sheltered spot. With large, showy blooms in a range of colors, this old-fashioned favorite is eye-catching when planted at the back of a border or along a fence or wall. Space your common hollyhocks far enough apart when planting to promote good air circulation and reduce problems with the fungal disease rust. Positioning them about 18 inches apart should be adequate. Light Although common hollyhocks can tolerate partial shade, they prefer a warm, full sun position. Too much shade will result in these tall plants flopping over, but excessively hot, dry weather can cause lower leaves to wither and die. Soil Part of the appeal of common hollyhocks is their ability to succeed in most soils. They prefer fertile, heavy soils, but, providing you enrich poor soils with organic matter, your plants should still do well. Water Common hollyhocks prefer evenly moist conditions, but wet winter soils are problematic. If your soil is not draining well during a wet winter, you could amend it with compost to improve air circulation and drainage. Water the roots and not the leaves of this plant, as wet leaves promote problems with the fungal diseases these plants are susceptible to. Temperature and Humidity Hardy down to about 5 degrees Fahrenheit, hollyhocks are pretty cold tolerant. However, early frosts can damage the flowers. Ideal daytime temperatures for flowering plants are around 65 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Excessive humidity can result in problems with the fungal disease hollyhock rust.
Fertilizer In terms of maintenance, one of the most important considerations for common hollyhocks is their nutrient levels. These plants love fertile conditions and are heavy feeders. Adding organic matter to your soil in the spring and applying an organic flower fertilizer or fish emulsion that is high in nitrogen every few weeks during the bloom period will result in bigger flowers and healthier foliage. Poor nutrient levels can result in yellowing of the plant's leaves and disappointing blooms. Propagating Common Hollyhock You can propagate common hollyhocks through division in the fall or spring when the plants are not flowering. Take root cuttings in winter (around Decembe, and you can propagate basal cuttings at any time of the year. Make sure to select rust-free plants. How to Grow Common Hollyhock From Seed Common hollyhocks are easy to grow from seeds. Sow seeds around late spring or late summer. The ideal temperature for germination is around 60 degrees Fahrenheit. After danger of frost, direct sow in the garden bed about 1/4 inch deep and 18 to 20 inches apart. Cover lightly with soil. If you plan to start your seeds in pots, start about 2 weeks prior to the last frost. Select deep pots and transplant outdoors as soon as true leaves emerge. Hollyhocks have a deep taproot which, once established, may not transplant well. Regardless of where you start your hollyhock seeds, be patient: they typically take around two weeks to germinate. Common Pests & Plant Diseases The fungal disease rust can be a major problem for the foliage and it can quickly spread resulting in premature leaf drop and stunted growth. Removing the leaves on the lower part of the plant stem, cutting the plants back in the fall, and promptly removing the debris will help to minimize fungus problems and spread. You might also find that Japanese beetles and spider mites are attracted to your common hollyhock, and young growth tends to be a tasty treat for slugs.
How to Get Common Hollyhocks to Bloom The flowers of the common hollyhock are large (around 4 to 5 inches in diameter), face outwards on the long central stem, and come in various colors, including white, pink, red, yellow, and lavender. Some say the flowers resemble those of opium poppies (Papaver somniferum). Although these plants are typically grown as biennials, meaning there will only be one flowering season, they have a long bloom period, lasting from mid-summer to early fall. A fertile soil with lots of nutrients, consistent moisture, and deadheading wilted blooms will encourage abundant, large, healthy blooms. FAQ Are common hollyhocks easy to grow? Although the common hollyhock grows from seed easily, they need the right amount of nutrients, spacing, and moisture levels to encourage healthy blooms and minimize problems with the fungal disease rust. How long can common hollyhocks live? This species is a short-lived perennial that is typically grown as a biennial. This means the plant takes two years to complete it's life cycle. Look for a leafy rosette the first year, followed by a sturdy central stock with blooms the second year. With the right care and conditions, you may get an additional year of flowering from your common hollyhock. Where can I grow common hollyhock in my garden? These tall cottage garden favorites are well suited to be grown against walls or fences or as a stunning backdrop in beds and borders.
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Miss Chen
2022年05月03日
Miss Chen
Common bleeding heart (Lamprocapnos spectabilis) is a spring-blooming herbaceous perennial plant that grows arching stems from rhizomatous roots and produces sprays of small heart-shaped flowers of pink and white. The plant is a fast grower that typically reaches 2 or 3 feet in height within 60 days or so. Though it flourishes best outdoors, growing it indoors is entirely possible and rewarding. Common bleeding heart contains isoquinolone alkaloids, which can be toxic to humans and some animals. FEATURED VIDEO How to Grow and Care for Aloe Botanical Name Lamprocapnos spectabilis (formerly Dicentra spectabilis) Common Names Common bleeding heart, bleeding heart Plant Type Herbaceous perennial flower Toxicity Toxic to people, toxic to pets Can You Grow Common Bleeding Heart Inside? The need for partial or full shade, as well as the plant's love of moderate to cooler temperatures, makes this a fantastic option for growing indoors. An ambient temperature of 65 degrees Fahrenheit or less is ideal. Though it might grow faster outdoors, the use of excellent potting soil and proper placement away from windows will help it grow. Give it the proper conditions and you won't have to give it much attention beyond regular watering. Keep in mind that it will need a larger pot, at least 12 inches in diameter, to truly thrive.
How to Grow Common Bleeding Heart Indoors Sunlight Grow this plant in partial shade to full shade. In partial shade, Lamprocapnos spectabilis will need approximately 6 to 8 hours of sunlight. It will tolerate some sun, especially in cooler climates. Watch to make sure it does not become overheated. This could result in a lack of flowering. Temperature and Humidity The bleeding heart likes relatively cool conditions and will not do well with too much sun, especially in the southern part of the hardiness range. It tolerates a wide range of humidity levels. The ideal growing temperature for common bleeding heart is 65 degrees Fahrenheit; this makes them especially well-suited to the indoor environment. Watering Keep the soil moist but the foliage dry. These plants need a full 1 inch of water each week. However, do not allow the roots of bleeding heart to soak in water, as this can lead to rot. Fertilizer Mix compost or peat moss into the soil before planting, then feed each month with a slow-release, granular fertilizer mixed into the soil around the base of the plant. Pruning and Maintenance No pruning is required for common bleeding heart. Cut back dying foliage for a better appearance. When stems die, cut them down as close to the base as possible. Keep in mind that the plant might go dormant, even under the best of indoor conditions, but it will rebloom. Container and Size Since common bleeding heart can reach several feet in height, it is imperative to pot it in a container that accommodates the growing roots. Start with a container at least 12 inches in diameter. The material doesn't matter as long as the container has good drainage. Potting Soil and Drainage Moist, well-drained soil with a high-level of organic humus is best for this plant. It prefers a slightly acidic to neutral soil pH. Potting and Repotting Common Bleeding Heart Common bleeding heart can grow for four or five years in a large pot until it must be divided and repotted. When repotting, make sure to leave 2 to 3 inches of growing room around the root ball and fill the pot with fresh soil. Moving Common Bleeding Heart Outdoors for the Summer Bleeding heart can easily move outdoors during the summer months. Keep in mind, however, that the optimum growing temperature is about 65 degrees Fahrenheit; this means springtime is great for moving it outside, but the summer months might be warm enough to make the plant go dormant. Considerations Ensure that your plant is kept in partial to full shade. When the temperature ticks up beyond 65 degrees Fahrenheit, the plant might go dormant. Watch the sky to ensure the plant doesn't receive too much water.
When to Bring Common Bleeding Heart Back Inside Before bringing the plant inside, make sure it is free of garden pests. Though there is no need to acclimate it to the indoor atmosphere, keep in mind that if it was subjected to temperatures higher than 65 degrees Fahrenheit while outside, it might go dormant regardless of the care you give it indoors. FAQ Is it easy to propagate common bleeding heart? To propagate, dig up the roots in the early spring, and divide them into pieces. Discard any dried pieces, then replant the segments. How do you force common bleeding heart to bloom indoors? It should bloom easily in the right conditions, including indirect sunlight and good humidity levels during the winter season. Keep in mind the life cycle of the common bleeding heart means it will go dormant during cooler weather.
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Miss Chen
2022年05月01日
Miss Chen
Columbine (Aquilegia spp.) blooms are said to resemble jester's caps, and their effectiveness at attracting hummingbirds will certainly put bird watchers in a merry mood. This herbaceous perennial is an airy plant with attractive clover-like foliage. The blooms come in many colors, and most have spurs: long, narrow strips streaming horizontally from the back of each flower. This plant is generally planted in early spring. Established plants typically bloom for about four weeks starting in mid-spring. Columbines are short-lived perennial plants, but if you let the flower heads go to seed rather than deadheading them, they will readily self-sow and might soon form a colony of plants when growing conditions are optimal. They have a moderate growth rate, and seeds germinate in about 20 to 30 days. Columbine plants are toxic to humans.1 How to Keep Your Flowers Fresh (We Tested ALL the Methods!) Common Name Columbine Botanical Name Aquilegia spp. Family Ranunculaceae Plant Type Herbaceous perennial Mature Size 1-3 ft. tall, 1-2 ft. wide Sun Exposure Full or partial Soil Type Sandy, loamy, moist but well-drained Soil pH Neutral to slightly acidic Bloom Time Spring to summer Flower Color Red, orange, yellow, blue, purple, violet, pink, white Hardiness Zones Zones 3 to 8 Native Area North America, Europe, Asia Toxicity Toxic to humans Columbine Care Columbines are great re-seeders. Many gardeners save money by starting the plants from seed rather than buying them at the nursery in pots (although you will have to wait a year for flowers). Not deadheading will result in plenty of self-sown replacements.
These plants do not tolerate hot, full sun well; they decline in the summer. They prefer medium moisture, well-drained soil. However, once established, columbine plants are drought-tolerant perennials. These plants are perfect for rock gardens and woodland gardens. Their attractive foliage makes them suitable as edging plants, and they are also frequently used in cottage gardens. Light Partial shade is the standard recommendation for growing columbine, but this plant tolerates full sun in cooler climates and during cool spring days. Soil Grow columbine plants in well-drained humusy soil with a neutral to slightly acidic pH. Mix some compost into the soil before planting to provide them with rich organic material. They prefer sandy or loamy soil over clay because good drainage is key. Water Columbine requires moderate soil moisture, so apply water when the top inch or two of soil dries out. As young plants are becoming established, keep the soil evenly moist but never soggy. Established plants only need watering about once a week. Mulch the plants to conserve water in the summer. Temperature and Humidity Columbines are perennial in USDA hardiness zones 3 to 8, but choose a variety that's well-suited for your specific climate. The plants flower best in cooler temperatures. They don't tolerate excessive heat. Fertilizer Use a liquid, water-soluble fertilizer once a month during the growing season (spring to fall) to promote healthy foliage and better blooming. This plant requires phosphorus for healthy root development. Fertilizer too high in nitrogen can affect flower production; try using 5-10-5 NPK fertilizer, which is boosted in phosphorus. Types of Columbine Aquilegia flabellata 'Nana': A dwarf cultivar with light blue and white bi-colored flowers; six to nine inches tall Aquilegia 'Crimson Star': Crimson red and white bi-colored flowers with long spurs; 24 to 30 inches tall. Aquilegia 'McKana Hybrid': Bi-colored flowers with long spurs in shades of blue and white, red and yellow, and combinations of pink and purple; plants are tall, up to 30 inches Aquilegia caerulea: Rocky Mountain columbine has grayish-green, fern-like foliage; very large white flowers with violet-blue sepals and yellow stamens; grows up to 24 inches tall Aquilegia vulgaris 'Clementine Salmon-Rose': A long-blooming variety with salmon-colored, upward-facing blooms that resemble the blossoms of a double-flowered clematis; 14 to 16 inches tall Pruning Prune columbine plants back to their healthy base leaves just after blooming. Doing so might promote a second set of stem growth within a few weeks enabling you to enjoy another wave of blooms later in the season. Columbines can be cut back to about one-half of their height after flowering to keep the plant attractive and green for the remainder of the summer. Propagating Columbine Columbine is best propagated by sowing seeds or by division. Columbine seeds can be directly sown in the garden in early spring or summer. Columbine can be divided in the spring, once every two or three years. A divided plant remains vibrant and vigorous for many years. Columbine has deep roots, so if you must divide it, dig down deeply. Here's how to propagate by division: You'll need a shovel or spade and a sharp knife. With a spade or shovel, deeply dig in a circle around the plant to loosen up the plant from the ground. Lift the plant out of the ground being careful not to break up the soil around the root system. Work fast to divide and re-plant: divide the plant as quickly as you can with a sharp, sterilized knife. Try not to dislodge soil around the roots. Replant one division into the same planting hole and backfill the hole with well-draining soil. How to Grow Columbine From Seed Propagating from collected seeds is the easiest way to grow columbine. After the flowers have faded and dried up, harvest the ripened seed pods left inside and break them open to collect the shiny black seeds. Store them in the refrigerator over winter. They need three to four weeks of cold before germinating, which ensures they will be ready to sow when the time comes. Plant them in the garden the following spring. Or you can let your columbines reseed naturally by not deadheading spent blooms If you start the seeds indoors, plant them in moist soil by laying one to two columbine seeds on top of the soil mix and cover lightly with additional soil. Set them in a sunny location. The seedlings will emerge in three to four weeks. When the plants reach three to four inches in height, harden them off gradually, then plant them outdoors about ten inches apart. Potting and Repotting Columbine Plant each seedling in a medium-sized (ten inch) container. Container material can be plastic, clay, wood, or stone, but ensure the container has drainage holes at the bottom. Fill each container with good quality, well-draining potting soil.
Overwintering Columbines can withstand cold temperatures. At the end of their growing season, remove any wilted columbine foliage and cut columbine stalks to the ground. Flower stalks will regrow next spring, along with any new plants that successfully self-seeded. For extra protection from winter temperatures, scatter a light layer of mulch or decaying leaves around the plant crown. Common Pests & Plant Diseases Columbine foliage often bears the "doodling" of leaf miners, but the damage usually is not serious and gives the foliage a sort of randomly "variegated" look that can be appealing to some gardeners.2 Keep an eye out for the first signs of doodling, inspect the leaves for the larvae, and crush them with your fingers. You can also handpick leaves at the first sign of mining activity. Other common pests include columbine sawflies3 and columbine aphids. Aphids can cause stunted growth while sawflies cause defoliation. To control aphids and sawflies, you can spray with ultra-fine horticultural oil or insecticidal soap. Fungal diseases like gray mold and powdery mildew4 can affect columbine. Remove faded flowers to control gray mold from developing. If symptoms like a fuzzy gray mold or white mildew starts forming, apply a fungicide to control it. How to Get Columbine to Bloom Columbine plants bloom in mid-spring to early summer. Most columbine varieties have little to no scent, but Rocky Mountain columbine (Aquilegia caerulea) has a distinctive sweet smell. You can extend columbine's bloom period by pinching spent flowers back to just above a bud. If you do not deadhead spent blooms, the resulting seed production takes energy away from the plants. Columbine sown in spring will not bloom the first year; however, plants started in fall will bloom the following spring. Common Problems With Columbine Columbine plants can be grown in a range of climates and are easy to grow in a home garden. Like any garden plant, they are susceptible to a few problems, such as insect activity and fungal infections. Yellowing Leaves In areas with hot or dry summers, columbine leaves can turn yellow. If you keep the soil evenly moist, the plant might sustain itself. But if heat turns the leaves yellow or the plant dies down, cut the plant to its basal leaves. The plant is not dead. It might not come back until the next spring, but sometimes it can re-emerge in the early fall. Leaves Turning White Powdery mildew creates white powdery patches on the leaves. It can take over an entire plant, mainly during periods of high humidity when temperatures are warm and nights cool down. The fungus spreads through splashing water and travel by wind to infect other plants. Once established, powdery mildew is difficult to control. Treat an infected plant with a fungicide as soon as you notice symptoms; be sure to read instructions on the product label for proper application methods.5 Leaves Disappearing One day you can have a full columbine plant, and the next, the leaves are gone. This defoliation is a sign of a slug infestation. Slugs come out at night. Put out bait such as a pan of beer or an upside-down melon rind. The slugs will be attracted to both. They'll drown in the beer, and you can dispose of the slug-infested melon rind. You can also spread diatomaceous earth around the base of the plant. The slugs will not cross that barrier. FAQ How long can columbine live? Columbine plants are generally short-lived with an average lifespan of about three or four years. Can columbine grow indoors? Columbine is a perennial flowering plant that isn't well suited for growing indoors. You can try growing it from seed indoors and sustaining it in a sunny window, but it likely will not live long and might not bloom. What's the difference between columbine meadow rue and columbine? Columbine meadow rue (Thalictrum) is a herbaceous perennial also in the Ranunculaceae (buttercup) family that is native to Europe and central Asia. It leaves look very similar to columbine (Aquilegia). But the leaves of the columbine meadow rue are gray-green and more delicate than Aquilegia. Columbine meadow rue bears clusters of long-lasting fluffy cottony flowers in shades of lilac, purple, or white in early summer. Columbine has five-petaled flowers that have long, backward-extending spurs that give it a unique, distinctive look.
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Miss Chen
2022年04月27日
Miss Chen
Collards are a member of the Brassicaceae family. They are grown for their leaves, which are cooked much like kale. This cooking green is most often associated with Southern U.S. cooking. Collard greens are native to the eastern Mediterranean and Asia Minor, but the plants are easily grown in most U.S. climates. Like kale, collards are non-head forming cabbages. Collards and kale are quite similar genetically, but breeding and cultivating over the years has produced plants with different textures and flavor. Collard leaves are smooth and almost waxy, with pronounced veining. They are quite large, with a bright to dark green color, and the stems are very fibrous and tough. Collards also tend to have a stronger and more bitter flavor than kale. True to the cruciferous family, collard flowers have four yellow petals in the form of a cross. The flowers are edible and have a sweet, cabbage-like flavor. Cooking greens are some of the most nutritious vegetables you can eat, and collard greens, in particular, are packed with vitamins A, C, and K; soluble fiber; calcium; folate; manganese; and tryptophan—and less than 50 calories per serving. Eating your collards even helps to lower your bad cholesterol. Collards can be planted in early spring for early summer harvest, or in late/summer or early fall for a late fall harvest. Most varieties are ready to harvest in 55 to 75 days. Botanical Name Brassica oleracea L. subsp. acephala Common Name Collard greens, collards, tree cabbage Plant Type Biennial vegetable; usually grown as an annual Size 20 to 36 in. tall; 24- to 36-in. spread Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade Soil Type Moist, fertile, well-drained Soil pH Slightly acidic (6.5 to 6.8) Native Area Mediterranean and Asia Minor Hardiness Zones 6 to 11 (USDA); grown as an annual in all zones
How to Plant Collard Greens You can start collard plants from seed or nursery transplants. Start seeds outdoors about two weeks before your last spring frost date or get a head start by sowing seeds indoors, four to six weeks earlier, and planting the seedlings right around your last frost date—these plants can readily handle chilly spring weather. For a fall harvest in cool climates, plant in mid-summer, about six to eight weeks before the first fall frost date. With protection, you can harvest collard greens well into winter. Sow seed 1/4 to 1/2 in. deep. Collards are large, open plants. You can space them 18 to 24 inches apart or plant them more thickly, then thin and eat young plants until you reach the desired spacing. In USDA hardiness zones 8 and higher, you will get your tastiest crop by planting in the fall and harvesting throughout the winter. Cool weather sweetens most cooking greens and collard greens are no exceptions. Collard Green Care Light Collard greens prefer to grow in full sun but will tolerate some shade. A shady location may slow bolting in warmer climates. Soil Collards prefer rich soil with lots of organic material, with a pH level of 6.5 to 6.8. Water Keep the plants well-watered and harvest regularly to keep them sending out new leaves. These plants need 1 to 1 1/2 inch of water weekly. Mulch will keep the soil moist and the leaves clean. Temperature and Humidity Collard greens are a cool-season vegetable that will usually go to seed (bolt) when the weather grows warm in mid-summer. For this reason, they are often planted early or late rather than for mid-summer harvest. Collard greens can take a light frost, but you will lose your plants if the temperatures stay below freezing for long periods. To continue harvesting in cold areas, protect your collard greens with some type of hoop house or cold frame. Collards do equally well in humid and dry conditions, provided the soil is kept moist. Fertilizer Side dress with composted manure or a slow-release fertilizer every four to six weeks to keep the plants growing through repeated harvests. Varieties Collards are often grouped by two growing characteristics: those that are loose-leaf and those that form a loose head. Traditional varieties, such as 'Vates' and 'Georgia', form loose, open plants. Some of the newer hybrids, such as 'Morris Heading', grow quickly and curve in on themselves, forming a loose head and a more compact plant. Loose heading varieties are good choices if you want to harvest the whole plant at once. If you want a steady supply of leaves, opt for a loose-leaf variety. 'Champion' is a 'Vates' hybrid, with cabbage-like leaves that store well. Good for smaller gardens, this variety matures in 60 days. 'Flash' is a smallish plant but a very vigorous grower. The leaves are smooth and sweet; the plant matures in 55 days. 'Georgia' is a large plant with tender, waxy leaves. Heat tolerant and slow to bolt, it matures in 75 days. 'Green Glaze' has glossy, dark green leaves that are less often damaged by caterpillars. It matures in 75 days. ' Vates' is a compact plant with very smooth leaves. It matures in 75 days. Harvest You can harvest leaves as needed or cut the entire plant. If you cut the entire plant while it is still young, the crown should resprout for at least one additional harvest. Harvest leaves while they are smooth and firm; young, tender leaves will be the least bitter. You can store them in damp paper towels for about three to four days, but the longer they are stored, the more bitter they become. It's better to harvest as needed. Collard greens are very versatile. You can try the traditional method of boiling them, but you can also leave them with some substance and either lightly steam, sauté, or braise them. There's good reasoning behind the phrase "mess o' greens." One pound of uncooked leaves yields about a 1/2 cup of cooked greens. Some favorite collard green recipes include: Southern Style Collards Raw Collard Greens with Ginger Sautéed Collards and Kale Propagating Collards are biennial, so plants will need to be overwintered if you plan to save seed since they will not flower until the second year. After the plants flower, allow the seed pods to dry out until they are very hard and brittle, then collect the pods between paper towels and apply pressure to break the pods and collect the seeds.
Common Pests and Diseases Collards are affected by the same diseases and pests as other members of the cabbage family, although their tough leaves offer some protection. Be on the lookout for aphids, cabbage loopers, cabbage worms, cabbage root maggots, flea beetles, and even slugs. Whenever possible, use a control method such as citrus oil or insecticidal soap. Common diseases include blackleg, black rot, clubroot, and cabbage yellows. Diseases tend to build up in the soil, so do not plant collards in the same spot every year. Rotate all your cruciferous vegetables and if you have a disease or pest problems, don't leave them standing through the winter.
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