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Miss Chen
2021年12月25日
Miss Chen
Butternut squash (Cucurbita moschata) is a type of winter squash. The fruit starts out with a light green skin, but its skin, or shell, turns beige when the squash is ready to be harvested in fall. The flesh is dense and rich-orange in color. Some people roast butternut squash and use it in soups, while others boil it, mash it, and serve it in place of mashed potatoes. This nutritious vegetable (technically a fruit) is high in vitamin A. Butternut squash plants are annuals that grow in almost any climate. They are planted in spring, following the last frost of the season. Their vines grow quickly, but the fruits may not be ready to harvest for three to four months from planting time. Botanical Name Cucurbita moschata Common Names Butternut squash, Butternut pumpkin, Gramma Plant Type Annual Mature Size 9 to 18 inches tall, 10 to 15 feet wide (vine length) Sun Exposure Full sun Soil Type Rich, well-drained Soil pH Acidic to neutral (5.5 to 7.0) Bloom Time Summer Flower Color Yellow Hardiness Zones 2 to 11 Native Area Central America, South America How to Plant Butternut Squash If you want an instant garden, you can sometimes find butternut squash seedlings for sale in peat pots at the garden center. Peat pots break down naturally when planted in the ground, so there is no need to do any transplanting. Butternut squash also is very easy to grow from seed.
Commonly, gardeners plant butternut squash in groups of three, forming a so-called "hill." Hills should be spaced at least 8 feet apart and should be amended ahead of time with compost, manure, etc. Plant seeds 1/2 to 1 inch deep, in groups of four or five seeds. When the seedlings emerge, thin them to the spacing interval specified for the variety. When the seedlings are young, they are susceptible to drought (so keep their soil moist) and to damage from slugs and snails. Be sure to take control measures against these pests. Later in the season, Japanese beetles can become a problem. You can dust the leaves with garden lime to discourage them or simply pick them off by hand. During the summer, butternut squash vines profit from regular watering and fertilizing. As fruits form on the vines, place something under them so that they do not have direct contact with the soil. This will keep them dry and help prevent rotting. You can place small boards, flat stones, bricks, or straw mulch under them. Butternut Squash Care Light Butternut squash needs full sun, ideally 6 hours per day. More time in the sun is fine, provided the plants are not overheated. Soil The soil should be rich in organic material, and it must drain well. It can be slightly acidic to neutral, with a pH of 5.5 to 7.0. Water Seedlings must not be allowed to dry out. As the summer progresses and the vines get bigger, your plants will need even more water. During hot, dry weather, leaves may wilt on a daily basis but will revive as the day cools. If leaves are wilted in the morning, water the plants right away. Fertilizer Butternut squash is a heavy feeder. Start with rich soil, and side dress with organic compost or aged manure in the middle of the growing season. In addition, apply a compost tea or liquid fertilizer at two- to three-week intervals. Temperature and Humidity Squash are cold-sensitive and will not germinate unless the soil is at least 70 degrees Fahrenheit. These plants love the sun, but they can overheat. During the hot days of summer, it's normal for the leaves to wilt in the afternoon, then revive after the sun goes down. If your plants are not reviving, try giving them some afternoon shade. Winter Squash vs. Summer Squash A "winter squash" is defined as a kind of squash that has a hard enough skin that it preserves well if stored in a cool place. Thus, if you were to harvest one in October, it would keep until December (winter) if stored in a suitable place, such as un unheated basement or root cellar. Butternut squash is just one of several winter squashes that are commonly grown. Another popular winter squash is Hubbard squash (Cucurbita maxima), which has a gray, bumpy exterior. In contrast to winter squashes, there are also summer squashes, such as zucchini squash (Cucurbita pepo var. cylindrica). Summer squashes have a soft skin and perish quickly.
Harvesting Use the color of the fruits to determine when to harvest them. As summer winds down, their skin will begin to turn light beige. They are ready to harvest when that beige color becomes deeper; the skin will often have bronze highlights (and no green streaks) in it when the fruit is ripe. Three other indicators will help you determine maturity: Check the stem where it meets the fruit; it turns a brownish color (as if drying out) at maturity. The skin should have a dull appearance (no shine). Thump the fruit with your knuckle; it should be hard and produce a hollow sound. How to Grow Butternut Squash From Seed Most gardeners purchase butternut squash seed packets (available at grocery stores, hardware stores, online, and from seed catalogs). Once you have the seeds, you can start them indoors to get a jump on the season, or you can wait until danger of frost has passed and direct-sow outdoors. Direct seeding in the garden is easier, but starting seeds indoors can be helpful to those in areas with short summers. To start seeds indoors, plant them about three weeks before the last frost in spring. Fill peat pots with potting soil, and plant two seeds in each pot. Water, and place the pots in a sunny window. Do not let the soil dry out completely. If both seeds in a pot germinate, select the healthiest seedling as the one to keep and pinch out the other. Now begins the hardening off process. On warm days, set the pots outdoors for a few hours at a time. Bring them back indoors at night. Gradually increase the number of hours that they stay out. This process helps them adjust to the transition from an indoor environment to an outdoor environment. Plant the peat pots in the ground once the soil temperature is at least 65 degrees Fahrenheit and all threat of frost has passed. If you choose to direct seed, simply skip to the step where you create hills and plant four or five seeds in each hill, thinning them out later.
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Miss Chen
2021年12月23日
Miss Chen
Butterfly weed is a must-have plant for gardeners looking to coax the namesake winged insects into the garden. This clump-forming perennial grows from tuberous roots to a height of 1 to 2 feet and is characterized by glossy-green, lance-shaped leaves and clusters of bright orange-to-yellow blooms that are rich with nectar and pollen. A type of milkweed, butterfly weed is generally planted in late spring after the soil is workable. It is fairly slow to become established and may take as much as three years before it flowers. When it finally does flower, its clusters of bright orange-yellow flowers will display from late spring until late summer. Unlike other milkweeds, butterfly weed does not have caustic milky sap, but it does produce the characteristic seed pods that release silky-tailed seeds to disperse on the wind. Butterfly weed is considered mildly toxic to humans and to animals.1 But because it has much lower levels of the toxic sap found in standard milkweed, butterfly weed is regarded as a safer plant in homes with children or pets. Common Name Butterfly weed, butterfly milkweed, pleurisy root, orange milkweed Botanical Name Asclepias tuberosa Family Asclepiadaceae Plant type Herbaceous perennial Mature size 1–2 ft. tall, 12 to 18 in. wide Sun exposure Full Soil type Dry, well-drained Soil pH Slightly acid to neutral (6.0 to 7.0) Bloom time Summer Flower color Orange, yellow Hardiness zones 3–9 (USDA) Native area North America (eastern and southeastern U.S.) Toxicity Mildly toxic to animals and humans Butterfly Weed Care Beloved for its ability to attract a variety of helpful (and beautiful) insects to the garden, butterfly weed is an easy-to-nurture herbaceous perennial that can also be found growing as a native wildflower in a slew of untamed environments, such as meadows, prairies, and forest clearings. Typically grown from seeds you sow directly in the garden, butterfly weed does not require much tending to in order to thrive, prospering well in everything from clay soil to dry, rocky soil, and even in drought-like conditions.
Its seed pods will turn brown towards the end of the growing season (early autumn) and if left on the plant, they will burst and spread seeds throughout your garden to emerge as new volunteer plants the following spring. While the plant can take up to three years to fully mature and produce flowers, its blooms will gradually grow denser with each season that passes. Like other types of milkweed, butterfly weed produces large seed pods that disperse small seeds with hairs that disperse on the wind. Thus, it can be an invasive plant that spreads every which way unless you break off the seed pods before they mature and split. Be careful when using this plant in gardens near wild prairie or meadow areas, as spreading is likely. Light If possible, choose a spot in your garden that boasts lots of bright sunlight daily, as this plant loves to soak up the rays. Full sun is definitely your best bet, but his hardy plant can tolerate a few hours of shade, too. Soil Butterfly weed can prosper in a variety of soil conditions and compositions, from clay to gravel, and it generally prefers a neutral to slightly acidic pH. Water During its first year of life (or until new plants start showing mature growth), you should maintain a moist soil environment for butterfly weed, giving it about 1 inch of water per week through combined rainfall and irrigation. Once the plant appears to be well-established, you can cut back to watering it only occasionally, as it now prefers dry soil. Mature plants can do well with just monthly watering in all but the driest climates. Temperature and Humidity Butterfly weed thrives in a variety of different temperature and humidity settings, growing well in zones 3 to 9. Generally, the plant emerges in late spring, hitting its peak bloom during the warmer summer months and drying on the stem throughout the autumn and winter. It handles high-humidity and arid climates equally well, provided it gets adequate soil moisture. Fertilizer Butterfly weed is a low-maintenance plant that does not require any additional fertilization—in fact, doing so can harm the plant, making it excessively leggy and reducing blooms. Types of Butterfly Weed There are a number of named cultivars of this plant. Most varieties, as well as the native species, are orange. But some popular varieties offer color variations: 'Hello Yellow' is a variety with bright yellow flowers. 'Gay Butterflies' has decidedly reddish flowers. ‘Western Gold Mix’has golden-orange flowers and is bred especially for the alkaline soils of the western U.S. Pruning Butterfly Weed Though butterfly weed does not need much pruning throughout the year, it can be cut back to the ground ahead of the winter season. In late autumn, you'll notice the leaves on the butterfly weed are beginning to yellow and the stems are drying out and turning brown. This is a sign that the plant is entering dormancy for the season—at this point, you can take a clean set of pruning shears and cut the plant to the ground, where it will stay until it reemerges in spring. How to Propagate Butterfly Weed Butterfly weed is very easy to propagate from seed, but because seeds can take two to three years to mature into flowering plants, many gardeners choose to propagate from root cuttings. Here's how to do it: In fall after flowering is complete, use a trowel or shovel, dig up the plant's long taproot, Using a sharp knife, cut the taproot into 2-inch-long sections. Plant the pieces in the desired location in a vertical orientation, with the tops just barely covered with soil. These plants do not like to be moved, so make sure to plant the pieces with this in mind. How to Grow Butterfly Weed From Seed Typically, the easiest and most successful way to add butterfly weed to your garden is to grow it from seed. Plant fresh seeds in fall for growth the following spring, or allow any established butterfly weeds already in your garden to do the work for you. Beginning in late summer or early fall, the plants should start to develop seed pods at the base of the pollinated blooms. If left on the stem, the pods will eventually burst and the seeds inside will be blown throughout your garden, allowing them to establish themselves in the soil in time for the following year. If you'd rather have more control over the eventual location of any new butterfly weed plants, you can remove the seed pods from the plant before they burst open and simply plant new seeds by hand instead. Overwintering Overwintering butterfly weed is a simple matter of cutting off the plant stem near ground level as soon as the plant succumbs to cold temperatures in the fall or early winter. There is no harm to leaving the plant stalks in place, though this encourages rampant self-seeding, which is usually not desired. Don't mulch over the root crowns, as this can encourage rot. Common Pests and Plant Diseases In most circumstances, butterfly weed is largely trouble-free, but it can be susceptible to root rot if it is planted in dense soil that gets too much moisture. It can also be susceptible to fungal diseases such as rust and other leaf spots, though these are usually merely cosmetic and not fatal. The plant can be susceptible to aphid damage, which usually is controlled by lady beetles and other predator insects unless the infestation is severe, at which point you can spray with an insecticidal soap or pesticide. How to Get Butterfly Weed to Bloom In general, butterfly weed is not a difficult plant to cultivate and should bloom freely on its own once it has reached maturity (which can take up to three years). That being said, if you're struggling to get your butterfly weed to bloom, there could be a few factors at play. It's important to get your watering cadence right for the plant. It should be watered regularly until new growth starts to appear (this includes leaves and stems, not just blooms), at which point you can decrease the frequency with which you water. Additionally, butterfly weed plants should not be fertilized. While fertilizer may work to make other plants bloom, it can actually harm butterfly weed and discourage blooming. Common Problems With Butterfly Weed Other than the root rot that can appear in dense, wet soils, there are only a couple of common problems with butterfly weed. Self-Seeding The most common issue with butterfly weed is the rampant self-seeding that happens if the seed pods aren't removed before they burst and scatter their seeds. This can be prevented by removing the seed pods before they dry and burst open. The volunteer plants that appear due to self-seeding should be removed before they establish long tap roots. Rabbit Damage Butterfly weed is very attractive to feeding rabbits. Rodent repellant granules or sprays can provide some prevention, but metal fencing around the plants is the best solution.
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Miss Chen
2021年12月21日
Miss Chen
Move over common moth orchids (Phalaenopsis) - it’s time for the Psychopsis orchids to shine! These hardy, unique-looking orchids are the perfect addition to any home or orchid collection. The striking appearance of the Psychopsis flowers led to its common nickname - the “butterfly orchid” as they closely resemble large brightly-colored butterflies. The flowers have long, thin petals that look like antennas and brightly colored sepals that resemble butterfly wings. In fact, Psychopsis orchids evolved to trick insects into pollinating them through pseudocopulation, meaning that male insects attempt to mate with the flowers thinking they are female insects of the same species. During this process, the flowers are inadvertently pollinated. This deception is used by many other orchid (Orchidaceae) species as well including the fly orchid (Ophrys insectifera) and the bee orchid (Ophrys apifera).
Botanical Name Psychopsis Common Name Psychopsis orchid, butterfly orchid Plant Type Orchid Mature Size 12-16" tall Sun Exposure Bright, indirect light Soil Type Sphagnum moss, bark mix Soil pH 5.5 - 6.5 Bloom Time Varies Flower Color Yellow, orange, pink, red. Native Area Central America, Southern America How to Grow Psychopsis Orchids Psychopsis is a unique genus of sympodial orchids native to the wet rainforests and upland forest habitats of Central and South America. In their native habitat, Psychopsis orchids are epiphytic - meaning they grow on the surface of plants and trees and derive most of their nutrients and moisture from the air around them. However, Psychopsis orchids are well-adapted to indoor growing as well and are generally considered to be a hardy genus of orchids. When grown in the right conditions, Psychopsis orchids can flower at regular intervals throughout the entire year. Mature and healthy Psychopsis can have several inflorescences with more than one flower per inflorescence. In fact, they can flower continuously on the same inflorescence for up to 10 years! So once the flowers on your Psychopsis fall off, be sure not to remove the inflorescence until it falls off naturally. Unlike some other orchid species, Psychopsis orchids do not require a well-defined rest period to stimulate flowering. Light Choose a location that receives bright, indirect light for your Psychopsis orchid. Psychopsis orchids can tolerate direct morning and/or evening sun but must be shielded from the intense midday sun. Too much light can result in smaller, paler flowers while conditions that are too shady will result in fewer flowers (or no flowers at all) that are small and brightly colored. Ideally, Psychopsis orchids should receive at least 10 hours of daylight, which may require grow lights to achieve depending on your location and the time of year. Soil Since Psychopsis orchids grow as epiphytes in their natural habitat, they typically do best when grown in soilless potting mediums. Sphagnum moss or a mixture of bark and organic matter are popular choices for Psychopsis orchids. Ensuring that the roots receive adequate airflow is important, so keep this in mind when choosing a potting medium for your Psychopsis orchid. Alternatively, if you want to take the guesswork out of choosing an appropriate potting mix, many greenhouses and nurseries offer pre-made orchid potting mixes.
Water Like most orchids, Psychopsis orchids thrive in moist conditions and appreciate frequent and abundant waterings. However, they should be allowed to nearly dry out between waterings and should never remain waterlogged. Do not allow stagnant water to sit around the delicate roots of the Psychopsis orchid - during watering excess water should flow freely from the bottom of the pot. Psychopsis orchids also benefit from having their potting medium regularly flushed out with pure, filtered water to ensure that the delicate roots are not burned by any salt present in unfiltered water. Temperature and Humidity Psychopsis orchids are native to the humid regions of South America and Central America, and as such, they require consistent humidity in order to thrive, and especially to bloom. Additionally, Psychopsis orchids require adequate air movement, as they do not tolerate stale conditions well. In terms of temperatures, Psychopsis orchids grow well indoors as they require consistently warm temperatures. Temperatures should be kept above 60 degrees Fahrenheit during the evenings, and up to 90 degrees Fahrenheit during the day. Fertilizer Fertilizing Psychopsis orchids on a regular basis will help them to grow well and flower consistently. Experienced orchid growers use the “weekly, weakly” rule of thumb when it comes to feeding orchids which states that adding diluted fertilizer into regular waterings is better than feeding a full dose once a month. Apply a balanced fertilizer diluted to half or a quarter strength once per week for the best results.
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Miss Chen
2021年12月19日
Miss Chen
The Buttercup Winter Hazel is a medium-sized deciduous shrub in the witch hazel family that is a native of Japan. It grows no higher than six feet tall with a spreading form that fills out to a branchy width that is as wide as it is tall. The foliage is not particularly spectacular in the spring and summer, and can often be lost in these seasons, though it does provide an excellent nesting habitat for birds and small mammals. It is in the fall and especially the winter, as its common name suggests, that the species truly shines. In the fall the leaves turn bright fiery yellow that is much brighter in color than the muted yellow that will be on display later. These fall leaves shed to make way for ghostly gray branches that will. for a short time, exhibit no sign of life at all. That is when the show begins.
Depending on how mild a winter you experienced, new growth will start to develop along the branches of the Buttercup Winter Hazel in the form of reddish flower buds. Soon, these burst open and reveal a pendulous cluster of translucent buttercup-shaped and colored flowers. These pale-yellow little flowers will linger for a few weeks to a few months, depending on the weather. While in bloom, be sure to take advantage of their lovely fragrance as much as possible, too. As the weather warms and other plants soon start to show signs of life, the Buttercup Winter Hazel will continue to be of interest. You will notice the plant’s blossoms wilting and falling off and new leaf buds forming. The spring beckoning flowers will make way for the leaf buds. Shoots that appear as green growth emerge, and the other plants around the Buttercup Winter Hazel enter the limelight to a much more crowded spring stage. Botanical Name Corylopsis pauciflora Common Name Buttercup Winter Hazel Plant Type Shrub Mature Size 4.00 to 6.00 ft. Tall 4.00 to 6.00 ft. Wide Sun Exposure Full Sun to Part Shade Soil Type Rich, medium moisture, well-drained Soil pH Acidic Bloom Time Late Winter- Early Spring Flower Color Pale Yellow Hardiness Zone 6 to 8, USA Native Range Japan, Taiwan Winter Hazel Care Picking the perfect place for the Buttercup Winter Hazel is important. Aesthetically, this is a gorgeous plant on its own, there is no doubt about it. Adding elements can and will highlight and add to its features by using a few things to enhance the beauty that is already there. First, consider selecting a place to take advantage of its translucent flowers. With the sun shining through the blossoms, it will almost create a yellow stained-glass effect. For this, you want a low sun angle. Second, consider color theory and negative space. Remember during the fall, winter, and early spring, you will have yellow branches. Consider backdropping the shrub with a conifer to give the colors a boost and to work the lighter colored bones of the Buttercup Winter Hazel against the darker conifer. Finally, think about putting some colorful winter blooming herbaceous flowers under the Buttercup Winter Hazel such as Hellebore, Snowdrops, or Winter Aconite. When you have found a visually appealing place, it is time to get planting. It will be a good idea to test the soil before planting. You can add any amendments now if the soil is deficient or in need of some help. Planting your Buttercup Winter Hazel will be done as usual for a shrubby tree. Dig a hole wider and deeper than the root ball. Add compost to the hole, then place the plant so that the root ball is even with the soil line. Fill in the hole with a mix of compost, the soil you removed, a few heaping handfuls of perlite, and then cover with mulch to the drip line. You will want to water your plant weekly, deeply, and thoroughly for the first growing season. Once your Buttercup Winter Hazel is established, enjoy the hope it instills every year with the beautiful smells it unleashes into the crisp winter air.v
Light Planting the Buttercup Winter Hazel in full sun to part shade will help your plant thrive. More sun will increase the number of blooms on your shrub. As stated above, consider using the sun as a design element when placing the tree in your landscape. Soil The ideal soil for the Buttercup Winter Hazel is acidic, light, organically rich, and well-drained, not compact. It does not tolerate heavy, compact clay soil. Water Once established, watering the Buttercup Winter Hazel can be left to nature unless you live in an especially dry area, or you are experiencing a drought. Temperature and Humidity The Winter Hazel is hardy to Zones 6 to 8. Flower buds can be damaged from early spring frosts. The shrub is also susceptible to damage from high winds. Placing the shrub in a sheltered area can help it thrive. Fertilizer Yearly feeding can help with flower production. The Buttercup Winter Hazel enjoys acidic soils, so testing the soil pH yearly to see what fertilizer will be most beneficiall should be a priority. Prune the shrub immediately after flowering in the spring.
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Miss Chen
2021年12月17日
Miss Chen
Although the names "butterhead" and "buttercrunch" are sometimes used interchangeably, 'buttercrunch' is actually one variety that fits in the larger category known as butterhead lettuces. These lettuces feature small, loosely formed leaf heads and a notably smooth flavor. In most ways, butterhead and buttercrunch are identical plants, though the buttercrunch variety is known to be somewhat more tolerant of heat. As far as leaf lettuce varieties go, these lettuces set the standard for melt-in-your-mouth flavor and texture. Seeds are quick to germinate, plants are slow to bolt, and the taste is sweet, mild, and complex. Gardeners looking to get into vegetable gardening for the first time couldn't choose an easier or more productive plant to get into the hobby, as butterhead lettuce tolerates a wide variety of growing conditions, and continue to grow new leaves as you harvest. How to Grow and Care for Violas Butterhead lettuce (Lactuca sativa var. capitata), including the buttercrunch variety, form loose but distinct heads. Both Boston lettuce and Bibb lettuce are also considered forms of butterhead. Boston lettuce has a small, round, looser head, while Bibb lettuce has as a tighter, smaller, fist-sized head. Butterhead lettuce takes about 45 days to mature from seed. It is normally planted in the spring, and sometimes again in the early fall for harvest in late fall or early winter. Botanical Name Lactuca sativa var. capitata Common Name Butterhead lettuce, buttercrunch lettuce Plant Type Annual vegetable Mature Size 9–15 in. tall Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade Soil Type Average to rich Soil pH Slightly acidic to neutral ( 6.0–7.0) Hardiness Zones 2–11 (USDA); grown as annual in all zones Native Area Mediterranean basin Butterhead Lettuce Care Butterhead lettuce is a low-maintenance vegetable that rewards gardeners with mature plants in two months' time. It's a good space filler in the garden while you wait for the weather to warm up for summer staples such as tomatoes and peppers. You can also grow a row of attractive butterhead lettuce plants at the front of the spring border, in front of your flowering bulbs and pansies. When the spring flowers are done, you can harvest the lettuce and free up the flowerbed for something summery. Sow seeds about a week before the last frost. Cover seeds with about 1/4 inch of soil. Keep moist, and expect germination to occur in about a week. Thin seedlings to 8 inches apart in the garden. For frequent use or heavy harvesting, make a new sowing every two weeks. Light Butterhead lettuce grows best in full sun. Plants will tolerate part shade, and in hot climates, some afternoon shade will help delay bolting. Soil Like all lettuces, butterhead lettuce does well in an average to rich, somewhat sandy soil. Lettuce can succumb to rot in heavy clay soils, so if this describes your soil, consider container culture. A slightly acidic to neutral soil (6.0 to 7.0) is best. Water Keep your butterhead lettuce plants consistently moist from planting until harvest. The ideal moisture will have your soil feeling like a wrung-out sponge. Temperature and Humidity Butterhead lettuce grows best in cool to moderate temperatures between 45 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Temperatures above 80 degrees Fahrenheit signal plants to form flowers (bolt), which decreases eating quality. When summer temps get the best of your lettuce crop, take a break and plan on planting a second crop of lettuce when fall arrives. Fertilizer Nitrogen-rich fertilizer promotes the leafy growth of butterhead lettuce. You can choose a single ingredient simple fertilizer such as blood meal, or feed by adding generous amounts of compost or manure to the soil. For a quick nutrient boost for successive plantings, use a liquid fertilizer formulated for vegetable gardens. Butterhead Lettuce Varieties ‘Buttercrunch’ is very tender and does better than other varieties in warmer climates. ‘Boston’ has a medium-large head of loosely arranged broad light-green leaves. ‘Bibb’ is a traditional butterhead with a smaller, compact head of short dark-green leaves with dark-red edges. ‘Four Seasons’ (‘Merveille Des Quatres Saisons’) has red outer leaves and inner leaves with a pink and cream color. Butterhead Lettuce vs. Leaf Lettuce While butterhead or buttercrunch lettuce forms a loose head shaped like a rosette at maturity, leaf lettuce does not form a head, and it is slightly more crisp. Leaf lettuce has a mild flavor but is somewhat more astringent than butterhead lettuce. Combine the two in a container to add variety to your salad garden. Harvesting Unlike many vegetables, it’s almost impossible to harvest butterhead lettuce too early. The smallest leaves are tender and delicious as baby lettuce in salads. Make use of these leaves when thinning young plants in the garden. As the plants grow, you can harvest the outer leaves only, leaving the inner leaves to grow. Or, you can remove the entire plant if you desire a head of lettuce. By cutting the plant at the base and leaving the roots to grow, new leaves will sprout, giving butterhead lettuce a cut-and-come-again quality. It’s important to harvest butterhead lettuce before the plants bolt (produce flower stalks). The leaves of bolting plants become bitter and unpalatable. Butterhead lettuce is delicate and wilts quickly after harvest. Pick the leaves in the late morning when the dew has dried, or in the evening. Store the leaves dry in the crisper drawer of your refrigerator, set on high humidity if your drawer has controls. Store the lettuce away from ethylene-producing produce such apples and other fruit, which will hasten the wilt and decay of the leaves. How to Grow Butterhead Lettuce in Pots Butterhead lettuce is compact and has a shallow root system, making it an ideal container specimen. Container growing can also help you thwart ground-dwelling slugs and snails. Butterhead lettuce is surprisingly attractive in a mixed container garden—grow it with edible cool-season blooms such as nasturtiums, pansies, and calendula flowers to yield a spring mix that you can harvest for weeks If you purchase butterhead lettuce transplants, pot them up with about 4 inches between plants. The plants can tolerate this closer spacing in pots, where they won't have any competition from weeds. Use a lightweight potting mix rather than garden soil or topsoil to ensure good drainage. Plants should not need repotting; if they begin to get crowded, harvest and start over with a new planting. Common Pests and Diseases Slugs and aphids are the worst pests for the succulent, rapid-growing butterhead lettuce leaves. Practice cultural controls, such as handpicking and traps for slugs, or blasts of water for aphids.
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Miss Chen
2021年12月15日
Miss Chen
Donkey's tail (also commonly known as burro's tail or lamb's tail) is a popular and easy-to-grow succulent with rows of fleshy, tear-drop shaped leaves. Native to Honduras and Mexico, mature specimens grow slow and steady but can reach trailing lengths of up to four feet long in six years' time (though the average length is closer to 24 inches). Indoors, the succulent can be planted and propagated year-round, while outdoors it does best planted in early spring. Red, yellow, or white flowers can emerge in late summer, though the plant rarely blooms indoors. Botanical name Sedum morganianum Common name Donkey's tail, burro's tail, lamb's tail Plant type Evergreen succulent Mature size 1–4 ft. long, 1–2 ft. wide Sun exposure Full Soil type Loamy, sandy Soil pH Neutral to acidic Bloom time Late summer Flower color Red, white, yellow Hardiness zones 10, 11 (USDA) Native area North America
Donkey's Tail Care All things considered, donkey's tail succulents are pretty forgiving plants. Like most succulents, they do well if left slightly neglected—if you forget to water them once or twice, they'll still be just fine. Where you really have to treat your donkey's tail with care is while handling it. Its eye-catching beaded stems are actually extremely fragile and can break off with even the slightest touch. For that reason, it's best to choose a sunny spot to place or hang your donkey's tail succulent and then, quite literally, forget about it. Light As with many succulents, donkey's tail thrives best with lots of warm sunlight. If you're choosing to house your plant indoors, opt for a sunny windowsill that boasts several hours of daily light. If you're growing your succulent outdoors, place it in a pot or spot in your garden that gets plenty of morning sunlight but is partially shaded during the more aggressive afternoon hours to avoid scorching its beaded leaves. If you notice your plant turning grey or a very dull green (rather than its typical rich blue-green), that's probably a sign that it's getting too much harsh light. You may also notice a chalky white, waxy appearance on the beaded leaves of your donkey's tail succulent. Don't stress—it's a completely normal occurrence called epicuticular wax, which the plant produces to protect itself from too much harsh sun exposure. Soil In order for your donkey's tail succulent to grow successfully, it should be housed in well-draining, sandy soil. If you plan to plant your succulent in a container (either to keep outdoors or to live inside), opt for a gritty soil mixture suited specifically for cacti or succulents. If you're including it as part of a larger garden, be sure to choose a spot amongst other plants that prefer well-drained soil, as too much retained water will cause it to die (you can even consider mixing sand into your ground soil to aid in drainage). Additionally, donkey's tail thrives in soil with a neutral to acidic pH of around 6.0, but isn't too picky in this regard. Water When it comes to watering your donkey's tail succulent, less is more. Like many succulents, donkey's tail is drought resistant once established, so you'll want to water it more frequently during its spring and summer grow season, then taper off throughout the fall and winter months. Generally, opt for a single heavy watering each month if your plant is indoors, increasing to once every two or three weeks if you're housing your succulent outdoors. A good rule of thumb: The soil of your succulent should dry out completely in-between waterings. To aid in drainage, choose a pot with holes at its base; a terracotta or clay material can also help wick water from the soil. When it doubt, err on the side of less watering rather than more—donkey's tail holds moisture in its beaded leaves and can tolerate periods of drought but is not at all tolerant of over-watering. Temperature and Humidity Donkey's tail prefers warm weather, though it stands up better to cooler temperatures than some other succulents. On average, try to maintain an environment of 65 degrees Fahrenheit to 75 degrees Fahrenheit whether you keep your plant indoors or outdoors. It can survive when exposed to temperatures as low as 40 degrees Fahrenheit, but only briefly, so be sure to bring it inside before the first frost or move it away from drafty windows in the winter months. When it comes to humidity, donkey's tail has no special needs. In fact, it prefers average levels of humidity and can rot if attempts are made to increase the humidity of its environment (so no need to mist its leaves or keep it somewhere more humid, like a bathroom). Fertilizer While fertilizing donkey's tail succulent isn't totally necessary to its successful growth, it also won't hurt and can be a great way to give the plant added nutrients. Focus on feeding your plant at the beginning of its grow season in spring, using a controlled release, balanced 20-20-20 fertilizer, which contains equal parts nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Mature succulents may prefer the fertilizer at one-quarter strength, while younger plants may prefer fertilizer with less nitrogen. Propagating Donkey's Tail Succulents Like most succulents, donkey's tail is easy to propagate through its leaves, which is good news, as they seem to fall off at the slightest touch. If you notice your plant has shed some of its beaded leaves recently, simply put them aside until the skin has scabbed over, about two to three days. From there, you can insert the leaves into a new pot filled with cacti or succulent soil mixture, leaving about half of each leaf exposed above the soil line. Water regularly (about once a week) until you see new growth start to emerge.
Repotting Donkey's Tail Succulents Because of their fragile nature, great care should be taken to never repot a donkey's tail succulent unless absolutely necessary. Do so, and you risk losing many of your "tails" to jostling and replanting. However, if you must repot your succulent, you will find the most success in the warmer months. Make sure the soil is completely dry before beginning, then gently remove the succulent from its current vessel, knocking away any old soil from the roots of the plant. Place it in a new pot and backfill with soil, making sure to spread out the roots in the new, larger pot. Allow it to "rest" for a week or so before giving it its first watering in its new home. Common Pests The donkey's tail succulent is not particularly susceptible to pests, but if it does experience an infestation, it's likely to be from aphids. Though aphids can typically be hosed off a plant, that's not the best solution for donkey's tail succulents given their fragile nature. Instead, opt to mist them every few days with organic neem oil until the aphids disappear (typically around two to three weeks).
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Miss Chen
2021年12月13日
Miss Chen
The adjective that is most often used to describe bur oak is “majestic” and it fits. This long-lived native oak reaches a height and spread of up to 90 feet, hence it is not the tree that you would want to plant in your average urban back yard. But if you have space, it is an excellent shade tree for a sprawling landscape. The fall foliage of bur oak is unremarkable, but the tree makes up for it with its deeply ridged bark and corky twigs that stand out, especially during the winter. The gray bark has deep furrows and grooves that become more distinct as the tree ages. Bur oaks are long-lived; some specimens are estimated to be 300 years old. Landscape architects value bur oak as a shade tree because of its symmetrical canopy. It’s also very tough. Bur oak is not affected by air pollution, it adapts to all kinds of soils, even compacted types with poor drainage, and it is drought-tolerant.
In common with all oaks, the bur oak has acorns—whose bur-like covers gave the tree its name. The large acorns attract wildlife who cart them off and gobble them up. Blue jays, deer, squirrels, and other small mammals eat the acorns, and the acorns taste better to wildlife than those from red oaks because they contain less tannin making them less bitter. Botanical Name Quercus macrocarpa Common Name Bur oak, mossycup oak Plant Type Deciduous tree Mature Size 70 to 90 height, 60 to 90 feet width Sun Exposure Full sun Soil Type Sandy, silt, clay, loamy Soil pH 5.5 to 7.5 Bloom Time Spring Flower Color Inconspicuous Hardiness Zones 3-8 Native Area North America Bur Oak Care The most important thing to successfully grow bur oak is to make sure that there is sufficient space, both for the tree’s significant height and width and for the roots. Bur oaks have a deep taproot and their expansive roots grow more deep than wide. Though they are as a result of their wide roots less likely to damage sidewalks, it's still possible because the absorbing roots occur in the top 12" of soil. Another important consideration when choosing a location for a bur oak is that while the tree is tough, it does not tolerate salt spray well. For that reason, it should not be planted next to a road or driveway with winter maintenance. Light Bur oak prefers full sun with at least six hours of direct light. Soil The tree can adapt to many different soils, both in terms of texture and structure. It grows in sand, silt, and clay, and can withstand compacted soils and poor drainage. Occasional flooding of the planting site is not a problem. However, the tree won’t do well when there is repeated and extended flooding, especially during the growing season. Bur oak does best in alkaline soils with a high or neutral pH. Water A newly planted bur oak needs to be watered deeply and regularly for at least two years after planting. In the absence of rain, continue to water the tree also during the third year growing season to make sure it develops a strong root system. Once the tree is established, it is drought-tolerant thanks to its taproot that lets it draw water from the deeper layers of the soil. Temperature and Humidity Bur oak is well adapted to the continental climate of its native range with its humid summers and subzero winters. The tree can be found as far north as Nova Scotia and as far south as Texas. It is one of the most cold-tolerant oak species. Fertilizer If at planting time, the soil is amended with organic matter, or the tree starts out in soil with a good nutrient balance, bur oak does not need extra fertilizer. In fact, a high-nitrogen fertilizer will harm the tree. Propagating Bur Oak If you don’t mind tending to it for a few years before the seedling is large enough to be transplanted, you can grow bur oaks from acorns. Inspect the acorns for cracks and holes and choose only fully intact ones. Soak them in water for 24 hours, which helps you identify hollow ones that float on top. These should be discarded. Remove the caps if they haven’t fallen off on their own yet. Fill a one-gallon planting container with a drain hole with the same soil as the location where you intend to plant the tree and mix in about one to two trowels full of organic matter or compost. The container might seem much too large at first but keep in mind that bur oaks are finicky to transplant because of their tap root so you want to avoid transplanting the seedling to a larger pot when it outgrows the original one. Place two to three of the soaked viable acorns in the container, laying them on their sides. Cover with one to two inches of soil. Water regularly and deeply. The acorns will start to sprout in about one month. Once the seedlings emerge, only keep the strongest one and gently pull out the others with their acorn. Protect the young roots from root burn by shielding the exterior of the container from the sun either with wood, heavy fabric or a second, larger pot. Keep the container outside year-round on a patio or in a location where it is easy to monitor. During the growing season, water the seedling regularly and make sure the soil never dries out. Light Bur oak prefers full sun with at least six hours of direct light. Soil The tree can adapt to many different soils, both in terms of texture and structure. It grows in sand, silt, and clay, and can withstand compacted soils and poor drainage. Occasional flooding of the planting site is not a problem. However, the tree won’t do well when there is repeated and extended flooding, especially during the growing season. Bur oak does best in alkaline soils with a high or neutral pH. Water A newly planted bur oak needs to be watered deeply and regularly for at least two years after planting. In the absence of rain, continue to water the tree also during the third year growing season to make sure it develops a strong root system. Once the tree is established, it is drought-tolerant thanks to its taproot that lets it draw water from the deeper layers of the soil. Temperature and Humidity Bur oak is well adapted to the continental climate of its native range with its humid summers and subzero winters. The tree can be found as far north as Nova Scotia and as far south as Texas. It is one of the most cold-tolerant oak species. Fertilizer If at planting time, the soil is amended with organic matter, or the tree starts out in soil with a good nutrient balance, bur oak does not need extra fertilizer. In fact, a high-nitrogen fertilizer will harm the tree.
Propagating Bur Oak If you don’t mind tending to it for a few years before the seedling is large enough to be transplanted, you can grow bur oaks from acorns. Inspect the acorns for cracks and holes and choose only fully intact ones. Soak them in water for 24 hours, which helps you identify hollow ones that float on top. These should be discarded. Remove the caps if they haven’t fallen off on their own yet. Fill a one-gallon planting container with a drain hole with the same soil as the location where you intend to plant the tree and mix in about one to two trowels full of organic matter or compost. The container might seem much too large at first but keep in mind that bur oaks are finicky to transplant because of their tap root so you want to avoid transplanting the seedling to a larger pot when it outgrows the original one. Place two to three of the soaked viable acorns in the container, laying them on their sides. Cover with one to two inches of soil. Water regularly and deeply. The acorns will start to sprout in about one month. Once the seedlings emerge, only keep the strongest one and gently pull out the others with their acorn. Protect the young roots from root burn by shielding the exterior of the container from the sun either with wood, heavy fabric or a second, larger pot. Keep the container outside year-round on a patio or in a location where it is easy to monitor. During the growing season, water the seedling regularly and make sure the soil never dries out.
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Miss Chen
2021年12月11日
Miss Chen
The bunny ear cactus (Opuntia microdasys) is a popular houseplant that is not only attractive but is also low-maintenance. Native to Mexico, Opuntia microdasys is known by several common names including bunny ear cactus, angel’s wings cactus, and polka dot cactus. But don’t be fooled by these cute nicknames, while the bunny ear cactus might look less threatening than other cacti varieties with large and intimidating spikes, this cactus is just as prickly. Each white “dot” on the surface of the bunny ear cactus is actually a glochid, which are patches of hundreds of small spines that can easily dislodge in the skin. Thus, take care when handling a bunny ear cactus, and use protective gloves if necessary. However, before you get your heart set on obtaining one, we hate to be the bearer of bad news: it's nearly impossible to find an actual plant for purchase. Botanical Name Opuntia microdasys Common Name Bunny ear cactus, angel's wings cactus, polka dot cactus Plant Type Cactus Mature Size 2-3 ft. tall, 4-5 ft. spread Sun Exposure Full sun Soil Type Sandy, well-draining Soil pH Acidic, neutral Bloom Time Summer Flower Color Yellow, white Hardiness Zones 9a, 9b, 10a, 10b, 11a, 11b Native Area Mexico Bunny Ear Cactus Care This cactus is easy to care for and thrives on neglect. The most important factor in keeping the bunny ear cactus happy and thriving is ensuring that it has enough sunlight and does not get overwatered.
Light The bunny ear cactus requires consistent bright, direct sunlight and when grown as a houseplant, it should be placed in the sunniest spot in your home. Ideally, this cactus should receive between six to eight hours of direct sunlight each day. When grown indoors, this usually means that it should be placed in a south or west-facing window, or you can use a grow light to provide supplemental light. When grown outdoors, ensure that the cactus is not planted in a location that is not shaded. Soil Like most cacti, the bunny ear cactus prefers dry, sandy, well-draining soils. A standard cactus or succulent potting mix is sufficient and can be easily found at most nurseries or garden centers. Alternatively, you can make your own potting mix at home by mixing equal parts potting soil, coarse sand, and perlite. Water This desert dweller is drought-tolerant and does not require frequent watering in order to survive. In fact, the bunny ear cactus is actually extremely sensitive to overwatering and prone to root rot if it is exposed to too much moisture. Allow the soil to dry out thoroughly between watering, and when in doubt, wait a bit longer before you water again. Remember that in the desert, cacti can survive weeks, sometimes even months, without water. Temperature and Humidity The bunny ear cactus requires warm, dry conditions and does not tolerate frost or excess humidity. Keep temperatures between 70 to 100 degrees Fahrenheit (21 to 37 degrees Celsius) and avoid excess moisture by ensuring that the potting mix is well-draining and the potting container has drainage holes. This cactus can be grown outdoors year-round in USDA zones 9a to 11b, but otherwise should be overwintered indoors to avoid damage from cold temperatures.
Fertilizer This cactus grows well in poor quality soils and does not require regular fertilization. However, it can benefit from a yearly application of a cactus or succulent fertilizer in the early spring to help boost growth during the active growing period. Propagating the Bunny Ear Cactus Like most cacti, the bunny ear cactus can be readily propagated by cuttings. Simply remove one of the pads from the cactus and set it aside for 24 hours so that the base of the pad can callous over. Then, pot the pad in a container filled with a well-draining potting mix and place it in a location that receives a couple hours of direct sunlight each day. Wait to water the new plant until a few weeks have passed to ensure that roots have begun to sprout. Potting and Repotting the Bunny Ear Cactus The bunny ears cactus should be repotted every two to three years. To repot this cactus safely, ensure that you have access to a pair of thick gardening or work gloves to protect yourself from the sharp bristles. You can also use tongs to ensure that you don’t touch the cactus yourself. Using the gloves or tongs to hold the cactus in place, gently wiggle the root ball out of the old pot and remove as much of the old soil from around the roots as you can. Then, transfer the cactus into the new pot, adding the fresh soil around the roots and patting it firmly into place. Common Pests and Diseases The bunny ear cactus can be occasionally bothered by common pests such as mealybugs or scale, but are otherwise fairly pest-free. Both of these sap-sucking pests can be treated with regular applications of rubbing alcohol with a Q-tip or cotton swab to the affected areas. The most common disease to watch out for is root rot which results from overwatering or excess moisture and can be identified by brown mushy stems or roots. Unfortunately, once root rot is found it is usually too late to do anything about it. However, you can remove the unaffected pads and propagate them to save the remaining portions of the plant.
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Miss Chen
2021年12月09日
Miss Chen
You might also know Common Cattails (Typha latifolia) as bulrushes. These perennial aquatic plants are widely associated with growing in shallow waters in boggy marshes and wetland areas across temperate regions in North America. Cattails have an upright growth habit with basal leaves, a long, narrow upright stem, and a tall cylindrical inflorescence. With the right conditions, these plants can grow up to three meters tall. They have a rhizomatous root system and spread rapidly to form attractive thick clumps. Cattails are monoecious, so the male and female flowers grow on the same plant. The male flowers, which are a shade of yellow, form at the top, and the female ones develop underneath in shades of green. The flowers appear during the summer, and in the fall, the tip of the stalk becomes bare when the male blooms drop off. The female flowers change to a brown shade, and this is when the iconic sausage-shaped spike is visible. It might be stretching it somewhat, but the common name from these plants comes from the fact that it could be said the mature flowering plant looks a bit like a kitties tail!
Cattails can spread rather aggressively, but aside from this, they are known to be a beneficial plant in their natural habitat. The tall, dense clumps provide cover and nutrition for wildlife. Birds often create nesting areas within cattail growing areas. Over the years, cattail roots have also been used as a starchy food source and the stems have been harvested for making thatch materials, paper, furniture, headwear, and more. Known for being an effective biomass source, they are often added to compost heaps and used as fuel. In garden landscapes, cattails are well suited to being grown around pounds, in water gardens, or in areas prone to flooding - they can easily grow in water up to ten inches deep. They can also be a good choice for erosion control on wet slopes, and they make a great privacy screen too. The attractive stems are frequently added to flower arrangements in fresh or dried form. It's great that these plants are so easy-to-grow, but their fast spreading habit means they can quickly overtake the areas they are grown in. If you have limited space or are worried about them choking out other species, your cattails would be best kept in containers. Botanical Name Typha latifolia Common Name Common cattail, Broadleaf cattail, Bulrush Plant Type Perennial, Herbaceous Mature Size Up to 10 ft. tall Sun Exposure Full Sun, Partial Shade Soil Type Moist Soil pH Acid, Neutral, Alkaline Bloom Time Summer Flower Color Brown Hardiness Zones 3 - 10, USA Native Area Much of the Northern Hemisphere Cattail Plant Care With the right conditions, you can develop a cattail colony in no time at all. They are fast-growing and require little maintenance. They do, of course, need the right amount of moisture, though, and they can become invasive if not kept in check in bottomless containers or something similar. Their spreading rhizomes can be tough to get rid of once established. However, they are a great choice in boggy environments where other plants struggle to survive. Light Cattails need a full sun or partial shade position to thrive. They can't survive in full shade. Soil These plants benefit from a rich, loamy soil that contains plenty of organic matter. They can, however, grow in most soil types. Water As you would expect from a marshland species, cattails need a lot of moisture to thrive, and this is the most vital element of their care. The soil should be kept wet, and this is why they do best in areas where this can happen naturally. These plants can grow in standing water, with some reports suggesting they will still survive even if this is as much as two feet deep.
Temperature and Humidity Cattails are most commonly found in temperate regions of North America, but they can also grow in subtropical and elevated tropical regions. Although young shoots don't cope with frost well, established cattails can handle harsh winters in their dormant state. Fertilizer Fertilizing cattails isn't generally required or recommended. Propagating Cattail Plants Cattails can self-seed freely and spread through their rhizomes. These rhizomes also make it easy to propagate if you want to add a new cluster of plants to a different large landscape area. Young shoots can also be divided in the spring when they are between five and ten inches tall. Just make sure a decent amount of undamaged root is attached. How to Grow Common Cattail Plants From Seed If growing cattails from seeds, they need a lot of water for successful germination. They should be sown on the surface of the soil and kept very moist, to the point of being soggy.v
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Miss Chen
2021年12月07日
Miss Chen
If you are unfamiliar with Tillandsia or Tillys, as they are affectionately called by air plant aficionados, this article is going to introduce you to one of the genera’s most popular species. Most plants of the genus are epiphytes, which means they grow on and take nutrients and moisture from other plants, rather than from the soil. Some plants in the genus do not even need another plant and can grow on constantly moving desert sand. This is definitely different from most people’s idea of how a plant grows. Most air plants are unique-looking and Tillandsia bulbosa is certainly a great example of this. The bulbous air plant is an otherworldly looking species that features tendrils that appear from a prominent bulb at the base. This is, of course, where it gets both its botanical name and its common name. The leaves of bulbousa are a dark green that turn a really lovely violet when the plant is ready to bloom. Don't expect a floral display every year, though, as it only flowers once in its lifetime. Once it blooms it then offsets pups and will clump or can be separated from the mother plant. Air plants are normally easy to grow but bulbosa is especially easy as it has very relaxed watering needs. If you are interested in trying your hand at an air plant, this is the perfect starter option. For people with a notoriously black thumb, who want to grow a plant in the worst way, air plants are the most sensible option, and Tillandsia bulbosa is really the best bet in succeeding with air plants. Botanical Name Tillandsia bulbosa Common Name Bulbous Air Plant Plant Type perennial herbaceous Mature Size 4–7 inches Sun Exposure Bright, indirect light or part shade Soil Type None Soil pH None Bloom Time Once per lifetime Flower Color Violet Hardiness Zones 9–11 Native Area Mexico, Central and South America
Tillandsia Bulbosa Care Caring for Tillandsia bulbosa is extremely simple. Unlike most plants, the bulbosa will not need a container or soil. The vessel for displaying the air plant can be something as improvised as a found shell or a piece of driftwood. It can be suspended from a piece of wire or it can be placed in something as elaborate as a terrarium. Light Tillandsia bulbosa is very adaptable to light and partial shade. It does not particularly like bright sun and would prefer indirect light and partial shade, but it is a flexible plant. Soil Placing the plant in soil is actually going to harm it as it will cause moisture to remain in its hollow bulb and create the opportunity for rot. Water Watering a bulbosa is an easy task. Air plants differ from other plants in how they absorb water as they do not use their root system. Their roots are mainly used to secure them to other plants or rocks. Instead, along the leaves of tillandsias are tiny hair-like structures called trichomes and this is how they take in moisture. The Bulbosa’s habitat is a relatively wet region so the leaves do not have an excess amount of trichomes, and they appear smooth. In air plants that live in drier climates, the number of trichomes will be profuse and give the air plants that famous silver or white look they are known for. For bulbosa, it will usually only need two or three light mistings every week with a spray bottle. Try not to soak the leaves. Temperature and Humidity The Tillandsia bulbosa is native to the humid climates of South and Central America. It likes a moist environment and this can be achieved with regular, light mistings. The temperature is flexible as long as it remains above 55o Fahrenheit. Fertilizer Fertilizing is not necessary, but if you feel the need to fertilize seek out a specially formulated tillandsia variety. Tillandsia Bulbosa Varieties The wild type of Tillandsia bulbosa is really stunning and long-lasting. But one of the great things about the Bulbous air plant is the number of hybrids and cultivars that are commercially available. They offer a wide choice of colors, shapes and size while demanding no further care. The cultivars range in size from Tillandsia bulbosa ‘Baby’, which is quite small, to the absolutely huge Tillandsia bulbosa ‘Gigante’. Hybrids range from Tillandsia bulbosa x ionantha ‘Joel’ to Tillandsia Lucille x bulbosa ‘The Perfect Blend’ which change not only the form but color of the plant. Propagating Tillandsia Bulbosa It is also so easy to create new plants in this species. They put out offsets, called pups, at the base of the original plant. When these form to around half the size of the mother plant, you can easily remove them to mount them in a separate position. Although bulbosa can be grown from seed it isn't an easy proposition and germination can take many months or even years.Light Tillandsia bulbosa is very adaptable to light and partial shade. It does not particularly like bright sun and would prefer indirect light and partial shade, but it is a flexible plant. Soil Placing the plant in soil is actually going to harm it as it will cause moisture to remain in its hollow bulb and create the opportunity for rot. Water Watering a bulbosa is an easy task. Air plants differ from other plants in how they absorb water as they do not use their root system. Their roots are mainly used to secure them to other plants or rocks. Instead, along the leaves of tillandsias are tiny hair-like structures called trichomes and this is how they take in moisture. The Bulbosa’s habitat is a relatively wet region so the leaves do not have an excess amount of trichomes, and they appear smooth. In air plants that live in drier climates, the number of trichomes will be profuse and give the air plants that famous silver or white look they are known for. For bulbosa, it will usually only need two or three light mistings every week with a spray bottle. Try not to soak the leaves. Temperature and Humidity The Tillandsia bulbosa is native to the humid climates of South and Central America. It likes a moist environment and this can be achieved with regular, light mistings. The temperature is flexible as long as it remains above 55o Fahrenheit. Fertilizer Fertilizing is not necessary, but if you feel the need to fertilize seek out a specially formulated tillandsia variety. Tillandsia Bulbosa Varieties The wild type of Tillandsia bulbosa is really stunning and long-lasting. But one of the great things about the Bulbous air plant is the number of hybrids and cultivars that are commercially available. They offer a wide choice of colors, shapes and size while demanding no further care. The cultivars range in size from Tillandsia bulbosa ‘Baby’, which is quite small, to the absolutely huge Tillandsia bulbosa ‘Gigante’. Hybrids range from Tillandsia bulbosa x ionantha ‘Joel’ to Tillandsia Lucille x bulbosa ‘The Perfect Blend’ which change not only the form but color of the plant. Propagating Tillandsia Bulbosa It is also so easy to create new plants in this species. They put out offsets, called pups, at the base of the original plant. When these form to around half the size of the mother plant, you can easily remove them to mount them in a separate position. Although bulbosa can be grown from seed it isn't an easy proposition and germination can take many months or even years.Light Tillandsia bulbosa is very adaptable to light and partial shade. It does not particularly like bright sun and would prefer indirect light and partial shade, but it is a flexible plant. Soil Placing the plant in soil is actually going to harm it as it will cause moisture to remain in its hollow bulb and create the opportunity for rot. Water Watering a bulbosa is an easy task. Air plants differ from other plants in how they absorb water as they do not use their root system. Their roots are mainly used to secure them to other plants or rocks. Instead, along the leaves of tillandsias are tiny hair-like structures called trichomes and this is how they take in moisture. The Bulbosa’s habitat is a relatively wet region so the leaves do not have an excess amount of trichomes, and they appear smooth. In air plants that live in drier climates, the number of trichomes will be profuse and give the air plants that famous silver or white look they are known for. For bulbosa, it will usually only need two or three light mistings every week with a spray bottle. Try not to soak the leaves. Temperature and Humidity The Tillandsia bulbosa is native to the humid climates of South and Central America. It likes a moist environment and this can be achieved with regular, light mistings. The temperature is flexible as long as it remains above 55o Fahrenheit. Fertilizer Fertilizing is not necessary, but if you feel the need to fertilize seek out a specially formulated tillandsia variety. Tillandsia Bulbosa Varieties The wild type of Tillandsia bulbosa is really stunning and long-lasting. But one of the great things about the Bulbous air plant is the number of hybrids and cultivars that are commercially available. They offer a wide choice of colors, shapes and size while demanding no further care. The cultivars range in size from Tillandsia bulbosa ‘Baby’, which is quite small, to the absolutely huge Tillandsia bulbosa ‘Gigante’. Hybrids range from Tillandsia bulbosa x ionantha ‘Joel’ to Tillandsia Lucille x bulbosa ‘The Perfect Blend’ which change not only the form but color of the plant. Propagating Tillandsia Bulbosa It is also so easy to create new plants in this species. They put out offsets, called pups, at the base of the original plant. When these form to around half the size of the mother plant, you can easily remove them to mount them in a separate position. Although bulbosa can be grown from seed it isn't an easy proposition and germination can take many months or even years.
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