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Miss Chen
2021年10月25日
Miss Chen
Homegrown fruit always beats market fruit for freshness and taste, but not everyone has the space to grow a fruit tree or a melon vine. For that reason, berries are the gateway fruit for many gardeners, and none are easier to grow in the home garden than the blackberry. As native North American fruiting shrubs that can typically be harvested from June to August, blackberries are primed to grow in your yard with little extra maintenance. All you need to grow summer blackberries for your pies, jams, and smoothies is a spot with full sun and a good supply of soil amendments such as compost or leaf mold. Blackberries are sold as dormant bare roots or as potted plants. They are best planted when the canes are dormant—generally in early spring. If you have the patience to grow blackberries from seed, plant them in the ground in the fall. Planted from seeds, blackberry canes generally will begin producing meaningful quantities of fruit in their second full year of growth. Botanical Name Rubus Fruticosus Common Name Blackberry Plant Type Perennial Size 3–5 feet Sun Exposure Full sun Soil Type Rich, well-drained loam Soil pH Slightly acidic to neutral (5.5 to 7.0) Hardiness Zones 5–8 Native Area North America, especially the Pacific Northwest How to Plant Blackberries As members of the Rosaceae family, the cultivation of blackberries resembles that of rose bushes. Fortunately, blackberries are closer to wild roses in their ease of care than they are to a hybrid tea rose. Blackberries will tolerate many growing conditions, but the harvest of a struggling blackberry plant will be disappointing compared to the harvest of a pampered plant. Plenty of sunshine, regular irrigation, and rich loamy soil will give plants the energy and nutrients they need to yield sweet, jumbo blackberries. Plants should be spaced 5 to 6 feet apart; if planting in rows, space the rows 5 to 8 feet apart. If necessary, amend the soil before planting so it is rich, well-drained, and slightly acidic. Blackberries should be planted relatively shallow—about 1 inch deeper than they were growing in the nursery pot. Trailing varieties of blackberries should have a trellis or other form of support to secure the canes.
Light Sites with full sun are best for productive blackberry bushes. Some afternoon shade is tolerated, especially in areas with hot summers. Soil Careful site selection will ensure a long life for your blackberries, which usually live for about a decade with proper care. The ideal soil is slightly acidic with good drainage; these plants do not do well in clay soil. An elevated site or raised beds will not only help drainage but will also prevent late spring frosts from damaging flower buds. Remove all weeds that might draw nutrients or water away from your blackberries, as their shallow roots are susceptible to this competition. Keep a good layer of mulch over the root zone at all times. This will feed the plants, conserve water moisture, and keep weeds down. Water Blackberries need moderate amounts of water, around 1 inch per week provided either by rainfall or from ground-level irrigation. Blackberries do not fare well in wet soils. Temperature and Humidity Blackberries require a period of cold dormancy to germinate, but because of their shallow root systems, they don't do well in areas where temperatures go below zero degrees routinely. Zones 5 to 8 provide the best environment for blackberries. Cold winter temperatures combined with wet spring soils may lead to plant death. The reverse environment of hot, dry winds is also unfavorable for blackberry growing and may result in stunted, seedy fruits. Fertilizer Fertilize your blackberries in the spring when plants are emerging from dormancy, using a balanced 10-10-10 formula. Fertilize plants again in the fall with an application of manure and compost, which will also suppress weeds and improve soil tilth. Blackberry Varieties Blackberries are usually categorized according to their growth habit: Erect thorny blackberries grow upright and don't require support for the canes. They have very sharp spines on the canes—sharp enough to tear clothing. Erect thornless blackberries are similar, but have canes without the prickly thorns. They, too, require no trellis supports. Trailing thornless blackberries have sprawling canes that require a trellis or system of wires to hold them up above the ground. 'Shawnee' is resistant to cold, and has self-supporting thorny canes. 'Natchez' is thornless and erect, and will form a hedgerow as it spreads by suckers. Semi-erect thornless varieties like 'Chester' and 'Triple Crown' grow as a clump, and benefit from a trellis. Varieties like 'Prime-Ark Traveler' produce fruit on new and old canes throughout the season. Blackberries vs. Raspberries Both blackberries and raspberries belong to the Rubus genus. Blackberry and raspberry plants look very similar—both featuring thorny canes and compound leaves with toothed edges in groups of three or five. One key difference between the fruits of blackberries and raspberries is the way the fruits are formed. The tiny globes of the fruits, called drupelets, are attached to a white core in blackberries. Raspberries, including black raspberries, form drupelets with a hollow core. Harvesting Because they are highly perishable, it's important to follow the development of your ripening blackberries carefully. Immature blackberries start out green, then transition to red before maturing to a deep, glossy black. Blackberries do not continue to ripen after harvest, so pick the berries only after they have turned completely black. Berries last about seven days in the refrigerator after harvest. Pruning Blackberry roots are perennial but the canes are biennial. This means that second-year canes that have produced their fruit need to be trimmed away after harvesting. For an established shrub, new canes that haven't yet fruited should be tip-pruned to about 3 feet in summer. This will cause the new canes to branch out, maximizing the fruit produced. Once these canes produce fruit, they should be removed to the ground immediately after the fruit harvest. In early spring before new growth has started, remove any canes damaged by winter, and thin out the remaining canes to the four or five strongest canes.
Propagating Blackberries It's easy to propagate blackberry plants from stem cuttings. Cut a 4-inch piece from the end of the stem in late spring when temperatures are mild and rainfall is plenty. Plant it in the soil, and keep it moist. Roots will form in two to four weeks. These newly started plants can be planted in the fall, or you can keep them in a sheltered location and plant them the following spring. Common Pests and Diseases Blackberries are prone to anthracnose, stem blight, and crown gall. Prevent disease by purchasing disease-free plant stock from reputable nurseries, and planting your blackberries away from areas with wild brambles, which may carry these diseases. Insect pests include stink bugs and raspberry crown borers. Keeping your plants healthy and vigorous will make them less attractive to insect attack. Blackberries are sometimes afflicted by viral diseases. Raspberry bushy dwarf virus and blackberry calico virus both cause bright yellow splotches to appear on leaves. Affected plants will need to be removed and destroyed. How to Grow Blackberries in Pots When growing blackberries in containers, choose a compact cultivar like Baby Cakes that does not need pruning. Choose large containers that hold at least five gallons of soil to prevent drying out.
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Miss Chen
2021年10月24日
Miss Chen
Named for its resemblance to the popular hardy garden flower black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia spp.), the black-eyed Susan vine (Thunbergia alata) is instead a tender perennial climbing yet bushy vine that is normally grown as an annual. It is a great plant for containers and hanging baskets and is particularly beloved for its distinctive flowers in vivid orange, yellow, and other colors. The flowers have dark centers, like the other black-eyed Susans, and the vine blooms for many weeks in the summer and into fall. Black-eyed Susan vine is a diminutive vine that grows to a maximum of about 8 feet in temperate zones or when grown in containers, although it can grow to 20 feet in frost-free zones, where the plant is evergreen. The leaves are arrow- or heart-shaped and up to 3 inches long. This vine climbs by winding its way up support structures rather than clinging with tendrils. Also called clockvine, the black-eyed Susan vine is grown as an annual in USDA hardiness zones 3 to 9 but can be grown as a perennial in zones 10 and 11.
Botanical Name Thunbergia alata Common Name Black-Eyed Susan vine Plant Type Flowering vine, annual or perennial Mature Size 3 to 8 ft. tall, 3 to 6 ft. wide Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade Soil Type Fertile, well-drained Soil pH 6.5 to 7.5 Bloom Time Summer (as an annual) Flower Color Orange, white, yellow, red, pink Hardiness Zones 10 to 11 (USDA) Native Area East Africa Black-Eyed Susan Vine Care Black-eyed Susan vines are usually planted as annuals in containers or hanging baskets with mixed plantings, but they can also be planted in the ground to cover trellises, arbors, fences, and other structures. The plant works well to cascade down over retaining walls, and it can also serve as a ground cover. Aesthetically, it presents very well when combined with plants that have purple leaves or flowers. If propagating or growing from seed, it's best to provide vertical structure in the ground or pots, for the vines before they need them, preferably before planting, so you don't have to disrupt the young plants later. You can simply plant them near a fence (with a post or planks they can climb), stand up a cage structure, or erect a tripod, or a tall pole. Light Grow these plants in full sun to part shade. Some afternoon shade is beneficial, especially in warmer climates, as the hottest sun's rays may be damaging. Soil Plant a black-eyed Susan vine in soil that is rich, fertile, and well-drained with medium moisture-retention properties. It prefers a soil pH that is close to neutral. Water Water regularly and deeply to keep the soil moist but not wet. If the leaves begin to wilt, the soil is probably too dry and needs a bit more water. In containers, do not let the soil dry out completely. Temperature and Humidity The black-eyed Susan vine thrives in warm, humid climates, which explains why it is invasive in tropical areas. However, it will grow anywhere in its zone range, provided it gets enough water. It tends to flower best after the hottest days of the summer are over. Fertilizer Feed the plants (indoors or outdoors) every two to three weeks during their bloom season. Follow the package directions, but in many cases, it's best to use a half-strength solution of fertilizer designed to boost blooming. Black-Eyed Susan Vine Varieties Cultivars of Thunbergia alata have very similar foliage and overall habits and are mostly distinguished by flower color. 'Angel Wings': White flowers 'African Sunset': Dark red-purple flowers 'Arizona Dark Red': Deep orange-red flowers 'Blushing Susie': Apricot and rose flowers 'Canary Eyes': Yellow flowers 'Lemon A-Peel': Bright yellow flowers with a very dark center 'Orange Wonder': Bright orange flowers with no dark center 'Raspberry Smoothie': Pale lilac-pink flowers and grey-green foliage 'Superstar Orange': Extra-large orange flowers 'Susie' mix: Orange, yellow, and white flowers with or without contrasting centers Propagating Black-Eyed Susan Vines Propagating this vine from stem cuttings is easy and it's usually best done over the winter. Take a cutting several inches from a terminal end of a healthy plant. Remove the bottom leaves of the cutting. Place the cutting in a glass of water to root. Change the water in the glass every two or so days. When the roots thicken, plant it in a well-draining pot in potting soil. Grow the plant until spring and then transplant outdoors after the threat of frost has passed. How to Grow Black-Eyed Susan Vines From Seed This vine is easily started from seeds sown directly in the garden after the last expected frost date (when the soil is at least 60 degrees Fahrenheit). In colder climates, nursery transplants are normally used; or, you can start them indoors six to eight weeks before the last frost. Germination occurs about 10 to 14 days after sowing in warmer temperatures of 70 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit, and up to 20 days in cooler temperatures.
Potting and Repotting Black-Eyed Susan Vines Black-eyed Susan vines grown in large pots with vertical structures can make beautiful decorations outdoors as well as inside your home. You can set a pair flanking a front door or define the edges of a patio or outdoor sitting area. Indoors, a pot of climbing vine can brighten the corner of a sunroom or even a large, bright bathroom. Indoor vines can even flower in the winter, provided they get plenty of sun and the temperature doesn't drop below 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Feed container plants (indoors or outdoors) every two to three weeks during the blooming period. Overwintering Move potted vines indoors so the vines can even flower in the winter, provided they get plenty of sun and the temperature doesn't drop below 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Feed indoor wintering container plants every two to three weeks during the cold season's blooming period. Common Pests & Diseases This showy vine is free of most serious insect or disease problems when grown outdoors, but indoors the plants can have problems with scale, spider mites, and whiteflies. Typically, these can be managed with neem oil or horticultural soap.
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Miss Chen
2021年10月20日
Miss Chen
The American elderberry, sometimes known as the common elderberry, is a deciduous shrub with bright white flowers and small, dark berries. Known by many different names, including black elderberry and American black elderberry, this shrub makes a lovely addition to any garden or landscape thanks to its lush green leaves, sprays of flowers, and edible fruits. Native to North America, the American elderberry is also known for its culinary qualities—elderberry fruits can be eaten and cooked with, but only when they are fully ripened. Best planted in early spring after the final frost, American elderberry is a moderately-fast growing bush that can reach up to 12 feet tall and 6 feet across once mature. It can be planted outdoors successfully in USDA zones 3 through 9 and harvested once the berries are dark purple or black, typically in August or September.
Botanical Name Sambucus canadensis Common Name Common elderberry, black elderberry, American elderberry Plant Type Deciduous shrub Mature Size 5–12 ft. tall, 3–6 ft. wide Sun Exposure Full sun, partial shade Soil Type Moist but well-drained Soil pH Neutral but acidic Bloom Time Summer Flower Color White Hardiness Zones 3–9 (USDA) Native Area North America Toxicity Toxic to people and pets; fruit is non-toxic to people once cooked American Elderberry Care American elderberry is an easy-to-care-for shrub that can tolerate a variety of different growing conditions ranging from wet soil and rocky terrain to bright sun and lots of shade. The one thing they do need is plenty of water. Enough H2O will ensure that your plant not only thrives and grows but produces lots of berries.
For the first few years of growing American elderberry, just focus on allowing your bush to get established. Do the bare minimum when it comes to pruning your shrub and check it for invasive weeds (a common problem for the shallow-rooted plant) periodically. Don't expect to reap any huge berry harvests, either—you likely won't get a worthwhile harvest until your second or third year. The berries are quite sour on their own, so if you opt to make them into a jam or pie, you'll want to use lots of sugar. Additionally, the small white flowers on the plant, which form in a cluster called a cyme, can be used to make wine, cordials, and syrups. Light American elderberry can be grown in a variety of different sun locations, making it an ideal pick for nearly any spot in your yard or landscape. Though it can handle it all, it prefers a spot that boasts full sun or partial shade. Soil For the most successful bush, plant your American elderberry in a soil that is humusy and moist. That being said, the plant can tolerate a variety of soil conditions, but whatever you choose must be well-draining. A neutral-to-acidic pH level is recommended as well. When planting your American elderberry, choose a spot that isn't prone to standing water (the plants have shallow roots and can rot easily) and plant each shrub at least a few feet apart from one another to allow them to grow freely. Water When it comes to the American elderberry, drought is pretty much the one thing it cannot tolerate. Your elderberry will need around an inch or two of water weekly during its peak growth period or during times of extremely hot or dry weather. Remember, the plant's roots are very close to the surface, so if the top layer of soil is dry, it's a good indication that they are too. As long as you have well-draining soil, there is little risk in overwatering the American elderberry. Temperature and Humidity American elderberry isn't picky about its temperature conditions, given its wide range of hardiness zones. That being said, it's a plant that would much rather be cool and moist than hot and dry. Though it prefers temperate weather, it does not have any special humidity needs—but it loves rain! Fertilizer While fertilizing your American elderberry plant isn't totally necessary, it is a great way to ensure ample fruit growth. For starters, consider amending the soil you plant your bush in with manure or compost to increase its nutrient density. Beyond that, fertilizer your bush every spring with a 10-10-10 fertilizer mixture. American Elderberry Varieties 'Aurea' cultivar': a shrub with yellow leaves, and red fruit instead of black 'Variegata': for foliage with variegation 'Laciniata': offers lacy dissected leaves 'Adams No. 1,' 'Adams No. 2,' 'York,' and 'Johns': produce an abundance of large drupes, and are cultivars most used if you're cooking the fruit Pruning This shrub does tend to form a lot of suckers. This can be a beneficial characteristic if you're trying to populate a native garden inexpensively, for instance, but it can be annoying otherwise. It may even become invasive in some areas. Your local garden center should know if this is the case. You can make the shrubs into a standard (small tree) form by choosing and developing a central leader. Otherwise, it is usually a multi-trunked shrub. Plan on removing dead, damaged and diseased canes (flexible branches) at the start of spring. You should also remove canes that are over three years old since younger ones produce better and this pruning will encourage new growth. Pruning can also be used to make a shrub's appearance neater, as it can become a bit lanky. Propagating American Elderberries Elderberry can be propagated by taking cuttings and rooting them. Use rooting hormone, to protect them from bacteria and fungus. Keep cuttings in a jar filled with clean water, for at least two months. Refill the water as needed, mist occasionally. Once strong roots have grown, you can plant them directly into your garden, in a well-draining area with partial shade. Potting and Repotting American Elderberries Elderberries have shallow roots, making them perfect for container planting. It's best to pot in spring, in an oversized pot, at least 2 feet wide and 20 inches deep. Make sure it has drainage holes (or create your own using a drill). Use a rich potting soil, with a pH of 5.5 to 6.5. Mulch the surface with compost and water frequently so they never dry out. Common Pests and Diseases While there aren't too many problems that arise when growing American elderberry, you may end up dealing with familiar issues such as aphids, mealybug, elder shoot borer, and scale. Additionally, American elderberry can be susceptible to a variety of diseases, including canker, leaf spot, and powdery mildew. Weeds are actually the most dangerous risk to the plant—gone untreated, they can easily choke out its shallow roots. Clear the soil frequently of any weeds you notice encroaching on your elderberry shrubs.
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Miss Chen
2021年10月18日
Miss Chen
Bird's nest ferns (Asplenium nidus) are naturally epiphytic, meaning they grow on the surface of other plants. In their rainforest homes, they can be found growing high in the crooks of trees. They form a series of erect, spoon-shaped, bright green fronds that rise from a central rosette. Healthy plants can have fronds up to 5 feet long, but bird's nest ferns kept as houseplants typically have fronds that grow only about 2 feet long. These ferns have a slow growth rate. They're best planted in the spring, though houseplants generally can be started year-round. Common Name Bird's nest fern, nest fern Botanical Name Asplenium nidus Family Aspleniaceae Plant Type Perennial Mature Size 3–5 ft. tall, 2–3 ft. wide Sun Exposure Partial, shade Soil Type Loamy, moist, well-drained Soil pH Acidic Bloom Time None Flower Color None Hardiness Zones 11–12, USA Native Area Asia, Australia, Africa Bird's Nest Fern Care The key to a healthy bird's nest fern is providing it with ample warmth, humidity, and moisture. When growing it as a houseplant, one of the best places to situate a bird's nest fern is near a shower or tub in a bathroom where it will receive optimal humidity and warmth, though it must have a light source as well.
New leaves will constantly emerge from the central area of the plant, which resembles a bird's nest. Do not touch, move, or handle the new, delicate fronds as they emerge from the center. They are extremely fragile, and if you touch them, there is a high chance of them becoming damaged or deformed. Light Bird’s nest ferns grow well in filtered sunlight to a moderate amount of shade. Don’t expose them to direct sunlight other than the very early morning sun. Harsh direct sunlight can burn the leaves. Indoors, an east- or north-facing window is ideal. Soil These plants like soil that’s loose and rich in organic matter with excellent drainage. A peat-based potting mix is good for container plants. Water The ferns prefer a consistent amount of soil moisture, but they don’t do well sitting in soggy soil. Water whenever the top inch of soil is dry. Avoid watering directly into the center of the plant, as this can encourage mold growth and rot in the dense nest. Aim water at the soil to avoid wetting the fern's fronds. Temperature and Humidity The bird’s nest fern thrives in warmth with temperatures between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. It can tolerate temperatures down to 50 degrees, but anything colder than that can harm the plant, especially with prolonged exposure. Indoors, be sure to protect your plant from cool drafts, such as air blowing from an air-conditioning vent. This fern prefers high humidity and moist environments, such as a bathroom, greenhouse, or terrarium. To raise the humidity around a bird’s nest fern, you can use a humidifier. Or you can set its pot on a tray filled with pebbles and water. But make sure the bottom of the pot isn’t sitting in the water because that can lead to root rot. Fertilizer During the fern's active growing season (April through September), fertilize once a month with a balanced liquid fertilizer that's diluted to half strength. Make sure to apply the fertilizer to the soil and not the fronds, as direct contact with fertilizer can burn foliage. Withhold fertilizer for the rest of the year because too much food can cause the fronds to have an abnormal shape or take on a yellowish or brownish color. Types of Bird's Nest Fern There are only a handful of varieties of bird’s nest ferns, which typically feature different leaf shapes. They include: Asplenium nidus 'Crispy Wave': Sword-shaped ruffled leaves Asplenium nidus 'Osaka': Narrow, strap-like leaves with rippled edges Asplenium nidus 'Antiquum': Wavy leaf margins Asplenium nidus 'Victoria': Long, wavy, tongue-shaped fronds Propagating Bird's Nest Fern Bird’s nest ferns can be tricky to propagate for beginner gardeners. Many people opt to purchase nursery plants instead, though propagating them yourself will save you some money. Propagation occurs via spores, which look like fuzzy brown spots on the undersides of fronds. When they look especially plump and fuzzy, that's when it's time to propagate. To collect the spores, cut off a frond with these spots and place it in a paper bag for a few days. The spores will drop into the bag. Next, add the spores on top of a container of sphagnum moss that’s placed in a water dish, so the moss will soak up the water. The moss should be moist throughout but not waterlogged. Cover the container with plastic wrap to keep the environment moist, and place it in a warm, shaded spot. Keep the dish filled with water, and mist the moss if it doesn't feel moist. Germination should occur in a few weeks. Potting and Repotting Bird's Nest Fern Bird's nest ferns must be potted in a container with ample drainage holes. As an epiphytic plant, bird's nest ferns are accustomed to growing with minimal potting media. So your plant generally won’t need repotting because its roots have run out of space. Instead, these ferns will need repotting once they’ve grown so large that they’re unstable in their pot and need a larger container to attach themselves to. This will typically occur every two to three years, and spring is the best time to repot. When it’s time to repot, select a container that's large enough to keep your plant stable. A clay container is often better than plastic to anchor the plant. Carefully loosen your plant from its previous pot, set it in the new pot at the same depth as it was before, and fill around it with fresh potting mix. Common Pests No serious disease or pest problems affect bird's nest ferns, though they can be affected by some insects common to houseplants, such as scale. Natural insecticidal soaps are the best solution to combat pest issues, since chemical pesticides will damage this plant's fragile leaves.
Common Problems With Bird's Nest Fern Bird's nest ferns are generally healthy plants, but they can be prone to a few issues that largely have to do with an improper environment. Leaves Turning Yellow Too much sun can cause the foliage of a bird's nest fern to turn yellow. Likewise, too much fertilizer also can cause yellowing. Check your plant throughout the day to make sure it's always in proper sunlight conditions. And adjust fertilization if necessary. Browning Tips Fronds naturally turn brown as they die and are replaced with fresh growth. But browning along the edges of a frond is often due to drafts hitting the plant. Move your fern away from air-conditioning vents and any drafty windows or doors.
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Miss Chen
2021年10月16日
Miss Chen
The distinctive bird of paradise (Strelitzia spp.) is one of the best-known tropical flowers. It is closely related to the banana plant. The bird of paradise plant is named for closely resembling the tropical bird of the same name. It is easier to grow than many tropical plants and makes for a vigorous, rapidly growing indoor plant. It can be moved outside in the summer and thrives outside for half the year. Bird of paradise typically flowers in the late winter or early spring, but it can flower at other times of the year when provided optimal conditions. These plants grow with upright leaves emerging directly from the soil and have no trunk. The large leaves range from 12 to 18 inches long and can get splits in the leaf when exposed to windy conditions or brushed against in a busy hallway. Strelitzia is toxic to cats and dogs.1 Common Name Bird of paradise, crane flower Botanical Name Strelitzia reginae, Strelitzia nicolai Family Strelitziaceae Plant Type Herbaceous perennial Mature Size 3.5-6 ft. tall, 3-4 ft. wide Sun Exposure Full to partial Soil Type Loamy Soil pH Slightly acidic Bloom Time Late winter to early spring Flower Color Orange or white Hardiness Zones 10-12 (USDA) Native Area Africa (South Africa) Toxicity Toxic to pets Bird of Paradise Care Strelitzia are beautiful plants that can be successfully grown inside; however, the biggest drawbacks are their size; they can grow 5 to 6 feet tall. These plants need 3 to 5 years to mature before they flower. They work well in massed plantings outside or as a specimen plant in warm climates, where their flowers rise above the foliage for an impressive display.
The trick to successful growth indoors is bright light with direct sun, regular watering, and warmth. Feed the plant with compost early in spring before new growth begins and fertilize every week during the growing season. To increase survival rate, grow the plant in a container that can be moved outside in warm summer months and returned inside during the winter. Light This plant needs bright light, including some direct sunlight, to bloom well. However, it requires shielding in the direct midday summer sun, which can burn the leaves of younger plants.2 A good position is in a room with windows facing east or west. Avoid rooms with only a north-facing window. Soil Use rich, well-drained potting mix for potted plants or a compost mixture. If using a pot, make sure it has ample drainage holes to allow water to flow through the soil and out of the pot. Water Keep the soil continually moist throughout the year. While it should not be waterlogged, expect to water it daily in the spring and summer as it loses moisture through its big leaves. You can water it until you see the water draining from its drainage holes, but make sure it does not sit in a pool of water. If overwatered, the plant will develop crunchy brown leaves. If underwatered, the leaves farthest from the center will turn yellow. Temperature and Humidity Bird of paradise prefers high humidity. You might want to keep a spray bottle handy to mist it if your home is dry. Keep the air temperature above 60 degrees Fahrenheit in the winter. This is not a cold-tolerant plant, and it recovers slowly from frost damage. Fertilizer This plant is a heavy feeder. Feed it in the springtime with slow-release pellets or weekly during the growing season with liquid fertilizer. Types of Strelitzia There are five Strelitzia species, but only two are commonly grown as indoor plants: S. reginae (orange bird of paradise) and S. nicolai (white bird of paradise). Strelitzia reginae 'Glauca': This orange variety has powdery grayer foliage and stems. Strelitzia reginae 'Humilis' or 'Pygmaea': This orange variety only grows to about 3 feet in size. Strelitzia reginae 'Ovata': This orange variety features rounded leaf blades. Strelitzia juncea: The leafless bird of paradise lacks leaf blades, so its stems and leaves look like reeds. Strelitzia caudata: This 25-foot-tall species grows in the higher elevations of South Africa and is also called the mountain bird of paradise. It blooms with white-and-blue petalled flowers and is the rarest and hardest to obtain. Pruning Birds of paradise flowers last for about three weeks before dropping their petals and dying. Remove old or damaged plant matter. This is the best way to thin the leaves. Remove the leaves by pulling them off or use sharp cutting instruments. Sterilize the implements in between different plants. If a leaf appears mostly healthy, leave it intact. If your plant has grown really large, and you need to do significant cutting down, use loppers, hand pruners, or a pruning saw in the early spring. Do not use hedge trimmers, which leave ragged cuts. You can cut all leaves and stems down to just above the ground. If the plant remains too crowded, use long-handled pruners and remove selected stems and leaves. Propagating Bird of Paradise The best ways to propagate birds of paradise are division and sowing seeds. Division is easier and quicker than growing from seed. It's best to use mature plants that have been previously blooming for at least three years. Here's how to divide strelitzia. To propagate by division: Depending on the size of your plant (and its rhizome or underground root structure), you will need larger instruments like a shovel and saw for in-ground or large plants. For smaller plants, you can use a sharp knife. If potting the division, you will need a new pot and a well-draining potting mix. You can also remove the new growth or offshoots at the base of the plant that has at least three leaves and divide the rhizome below ground with a shovel, saw, or knife. Repot in a new container with a well-draining potting mix. How to Grow Strelitzia From Seed Be patient when growing strelitzia from seeds. It can take two months for the seeds to germinate. Soak seeds in room-temperature water for 24 to 48 hours before planting. Remove any orange stringy material. Nick the seed with a knife or nail file. Plant the seed in a well-draining potting mix about 1/2 to 1 inch deep and at least 3 inches apart from other seeds. Place the container in a warm, indirect sun location (at least 80 degrees Fahrenheit). Cover with a cloche or plastic wrap, keeping the soil moist but not soggy. Once the seedling germinates and produces two to three leaves, transplant to a 6-inch pot. Once your plant reaches 6 inches, it is ready for a more permanent home. Potting and Repotting Strelitzia Bird of paradise is a rapidly-growing plant that needs to reach a certain size before it blooms. A bird of paradise that is 3 to 4 feet tall grows well in a 10-inch pot. A 5- to 6-foot plant usually thrives in a 14-inch pot. Repot it every spring into the next-size-up pot. Once it reaches maturity, allow it to be pot-bound so that it will bloom. You can divide it by the time it has matured or bloomed at least once but do it infrequently since crowded clumps produce the most blooms. Repotting disrupts the bloom cycle. Overwintering If it gets below freezing where you live for a prolonged time, you might kill this plant if you do not take it inside for the winter. However, if you live in an area like zone 9, where it only dips low for short periods, you may be able to overwinter your plant outdoors; but it will need help to survive. To overwinter outdoors, cut the stem and leaves down to just 12 inches above the ground. Cover the entire stem and rhizome area with a layer of mulch, then leaf litter, and straw. Cover that with breathable row cover material and stake it down. As soon as spring arrives and the threat of the last frost is gone, remove the toppings. Common Pests and Plant Diseases Monitor the plant for aphids, scale, and whiteflies.3 If you see them, use insecticidal soap for control and apply it to the undersides of the leaves. Systemic pesticide is also effective. If you use systemic pesticide, the plant will distribute it from its roots through to its leaves and flowers. Bird of paradise is also susceptible to Botrytis cinerea (gray mold).3 Flowers and leaves with this condition will develop dark spots followed by a layer of gray mold. Remove the affected parts of the plant and allow them to air out. How to Get Strelitzia to Bloom Once your plant is at least four to five years old, it is mature enough to bloom. To spur flowering, keep it pot-bound. Give it a lot of sun (at least 6 hours of full sunlight or bright light) and feed it on schedule. One of the most common reasons a bird of paradise fails to flower is insufficient light. These plants should also be kept evenly moist throughout summer, but allow them to dry out between watering. Common Problems With Strelitzia Strelizia is a relatively easy-going plant with very few issues. It is most prone to root rot and insects that prey on the plant when its optimal conditions are not met. But, if it's not overwatered, kept fed, and given ample light and air circulation—it can keep most problems at bay. Wilting or Browning of Leaves The most common disease affecting strelitzia is root rot. When the roots of the plant sit in water or the soil gets soggy for a prolonged amount of time, a fungus that causes root rot can overtake a plant. It can be avoided by letting the soil dry out between waterings. Another sign you have root rot includes a rotting smell. Some plants can be saved if caught early. To fix root rot, pull up the root ball, cutting away blackened, moldy parts of the rhizome, apply a fungicide according to the instructions, and repot in a sterilized container with fresh, well-draining soil.
Curling Leaves Curling leaves are a sign of underwatering. You can avoid this problem by giving more water and making sure that the water runs freely from the bottom of the pot. This thorough watering ensures that all the roots have access to water, but make sure that the plant doesn't sit in that water. Soggy soil can cause other problems. Yellowing Leaves Yellowing leaves can mean several things. First, if the occasion leaf turns yellow, and the plant is a mature plant, it can be the normal life cycle of the leaf of that plant. However, if many leaves begin to yellow it can be a sign that the plant does not have ample humidity, it needs more nutrients, or if the yellowed leaves are toward the outside of the plant, it's not getting sufficiently watered. Increase each of those factors—one at a time—to see if that solves the problem. Slits or Breaks in the Leaves This plant's leaves are large. If your strelitzia develops slits or breaks in the leaves, especially if your plant lives outside for some part of the year, it's natural and normal. The plant develops slits to allow the plant to circulate air around its leaves and roots. Wind and breezes contribute to slitting. Air circulation keeps mold and other pests from settling in.
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Miss Chen
2021年10月14日
Miss Chen
The bigleaf magnolia (Magnolia macrophylla) can be a stunning addition to the landscape. The oblong to obovate leaves on this magnolia tree can measure up to 3 feet long and 1 foot wide, hence the species name of macrophylla, which is Latin for "large leaves." The leaves are medium green on top and a silvery color on their undersides. The tree bears fragrant white flowers that are equally impressive and massive, with a span of roughly 8 to 12 inches. Even the elongated red fruits that follow the flowers offer visual interest. The fruits also are popular with birds and other wildlife. The tree has a moderate growth rate, gaining around a foot per year and forming a pyramidal shape. It can be planted in the fall or early spring.
Botanical Name Magnolia macrophylla Common Names Bigleaf magnolia, large-leaved cucumber tree, great-leaved macrophylla, umbrella tree Plant Type Tree Mature Size 30–40 ft. tall and wide Sun Exposure Full, partial Soil Type Loamy, moist, well-drained Soil pH Acidic, neutral Bloom Time Late spring to early summer Flower Color Creamy white with purple petal bases Hardiness Zones 5–8 (USDA) Native Area Caribbean, North America, Central America Bigleaf Magnolia Care Bigleaf magnolias are easy to care for when grown in optimal conditions. They do not suffer from any serious pest or disease issues, nor do they require regular pruning to maintain their shape. If you do need to prune to remove a misshapen branch, try to do so in the late winter or early spring. This will prevent the sap from bleeding. Remove any dead, damaged, or diseased branches as they arise. A drawback of bigleaf magnolias is it can take a decade or longer for them to begin to produce blooms. Also, because the leaves are so large, raking them can be quite a chore in the fall. Furthermore, they are fairly fussy about the soil in which they grow. They do not like very dry or very wet ground. And they are intolerant of pollution, meaning they do not make good street trees. Light Bigleaf magnolia trees need a site that has full sun to part shade. Two to five hours of direct sunlight each day is typically sufficient. Soil These trees prefer conditions that mimic their native woodland habitat. Loamy soil that is high in organic matter and drains well is ideal. And a slightly acidic to neutral soil pH is best. Water Bigleaf magnolias don't do well in soggy or bone dry soil. Always allow the soil to dry out somewhat between waterings, but never allow it to stay dry for too long. Water when the top inch of soil is dry to the touch. Bigleaf magnolias grown in exceptionally well-draining soil will need more frequent watering than trees grown in slow-draining soil types. Temperature and Humidity The bigleaf magnolia tolerates the temperature highs and lows of its growing zones well. Humidity also typically is not an issue as long as the tree's moisture requirements are met. A layer of mulch around the tree can help to keep the roots cool and retain soil moisture. One specific climate requirement of bigleaf magnolia trees is a location that does not experience strong winds. Because the leaves of this tree are so large, they are easily damaged by wind gusts. Fertilizer When grown in organically rich soil, bigleaf magnolias often don't need supplemental fertilizer. Signs that fertilizer is necessary include weak new growth in the spring and significant dieback. Use a slow-release fertilizer with a balanced formulation, and apply it during late spring or early summer Bigleaf Magnolia Varieties The bigleaf magnolia has been divided into three subspecies that some people treat as separate species. They are:
Magnolia macrophylla subsp. macrophylla: Known also as bigleaf magnolia, this tree sports leaves that can stretch from 20 to 36 inches long. And the tree itself can grow more than 60 feet tall. Magnolia macrophylla subsp. ashei (also Magnolia ashei): Known as the Ashe magnolia, this tree can grow up to 40 feet high. And its leaves stretch around 10 to 24 inches long. Magnolia macrophylla subsp. dealbata (also Magnolia dealbata): This tree has two common names: the Mexican bigleaf magnolia and the cloud forest magnolia. It can grow more than 60 feet high with leaves around 1 to 2 feet long. Its fruits also are fairly large at around 3 to 6 inches long. Propagating Bigleaf Magnolia Most growers prefer buying bigleaf magnolia trees from nurseries, but the trees can also be grown from seed. Collect ripe, fallen fruit from the ground, and remove the flesh, leaving only the seeds. Clean seeds can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator. Sow the seeds in the fall, but be aware that bigleaf magnolia seeds are known for having low seed viability. If you're not keen on trying your luck with the seeds, bigleaf magnolias can also be propagated via rooting softwood cuttings in the summer.
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Miss Chen
2021年10月13日
Miss Chen
You may not be familiar with the term bidens plant, but there is a good chance you’ve spotted this prolific growing plant with daisy-like blooms. Part of the aster family, there are more than 200 species of bidens plants with native types in such farflung places as Hawaii, Mexico, and Europe. In the United States, these plants are considered a native species in every state except Wyoming. If you encounter wild-growing bidens, you’ll recognize them for the tiny, sticky seeds that cling to your clothing or in your dog’s fur. The good news is that most commercially-available bidens have been cultivated to avoid the sticky seed problem. These flowering plants typically have blooms in yellow or orange, but newer varieties include pink, gold, and white blossoms. In warmer climates where winter temperatures stay above 40 degrees Fahrenheit, bidens are a perennial plant. Though they lose their blooms in late fall and winter, the beautiful foliage of this plant stays green all year long. In northern climates where winter temperatures fall below freezing, they are considered an annual and need to be replanted each year.
Botanical Name Bidens Common Name Bidens Plant Type Annual or perennial Mature Size 6-12 inches tall, 1-3 feet wide Sun Exposure Medium to full sun Soil Type Rich and well-drained Soil pH Slightly acidic to neutral Bloom Time Summer Flower Color Yellow, Gold, White, Pink, Orange Hardiness Zones 8 to 11 Native Area Americas, Africa, Polynesia, Europe, Asia How to Grow Bidens Growing virtually all types of bidens is relatively easy. These plants have abundant greenery growth and produce many blooms—as long as they have rich soil and sufficient drainage. They tolerate drought and heat relatively well and require part to full sun. You won’t need to deadhead the plant for it to continue blooming during its long flowering season of May to October. In the winter, the plant will die off if temperatures fall below freezing. Otherwise, it will retain its greenery through the winter months and rejuvenate in the spring. Popular in both gardens and in containers, bidens are considered an excellent choice as a spiller plant. Light Bidens can grow in partial sun conditions, but for the biggest and best blooms, full sun is preferred. Any location you choose to plant bidens should receive at least 4 hours of direct sunlight per day. Without adequate light, the plant will still grow but may not produce as many blooms and is likely to be leggier. Soil Whether you’re planting bidens in an outdoor garden or a container, ensure that they have well-drained soil to avoid problems with root rot. In addition, this abundantly blooming plant thrives in rich, humus soil. It can tolerate a variety of pH levels in soil, but is generally considered to do best in neutral to slightly acidic soil types.
Water These plants are considered fairly drought-resistant. However, they do require regular watering for their best appearance and longevity. An inch of water per week is typically sufficient; water before wilting begins. Temperature and Humidity Warm temperatures don’t put a damper on the growth and blooming of most varieties of bidens. With many of these plants being native to warm weather locales like Hawaii, Mexico, and Polynesia, it’s safe to say that they won’t mind a little heat and humidity! The drought resistant quality of this plant also helps it to endure hot, dry conditions. However, if such a spell of dry weather persists, it’s best to provide these plants with regular watering to offset the impact of the heat on the plant’s foliage and blooms. On the other hand, if temperatures dip too low, bidens plants will suffer. These plants are not frost-resistant and will die under 40 degrees Fahrenheit. In climates that keep above this threshold, the plant will return year after year as a perennial. Otherwise, it will need to be re-planted as an annual each year. Fertilizer To flourish, the abundantly flowering bidens plant will require nutrient-rich soil. How much fertilizer to use and what type is generally specified by the specific type of bidens plant you’re growing. It’s generally recommended to supplement this plant with a general-purpose fertilizer or to use a timed-release fertilizer when planting. Fertilizer is especially important if you are growing bidens in a container. Propagating Bidens It’s relatively easy to turn one bidens plant into many, since these plants can be propagated by seed, cuttings, or through dividing. To propagate by seed, you should plan to sow the seeds at the end of winter or beginning of spring. Keep in mind that this plant prefers warm weather, so wait until after the last frost if you’re sowing seed in an outdoor location. If you want to propagate by cuttings, take an actively growing stem with a node from the plant. Plant it in moist, rich potting soil and water generously and often until new growth emerges. Finally, you can divide bidens plants to create more of these flowering beauties. For bidens growing as perennials in southern regions, wait to divide the plants until the spring. Varieties of Bidens Bidens alba – Resembling a daisy, this bidens plant variety features white petals and a bright yellow center. It’s also sometimes referred to as beggarticks or Spanish needles. Bidens 'Campfire Burst' – This variety of bidens is hard to miss, thanks to the brightly hued flowers crowning each plant. The tri-colored petals are shaded inward from a deep red to a blazing orange and a zippy yellow. They flower abundantly from the summer into the fall and are a great colorful addition to any landscape design. Bidens ferulifolia 'Golden Nugget' – With yellow petals that resemble a star and an orange center, the Golden Nugget variety is one of the most eye-catching bidens plants. It’s a native of Mexico and is also called the Apache beggartick or fern-leaved beggartick, courtesy of its fine, soft foliage. Pruning Bidens are easy to maintain and don’t need to be pruned or deadheaded. However, in favorable growing conditions, you might choose to prune the plant back if it becomes too large. Being Grown in Containers While bidens are a popular pick for gardens and landscaping, they also make an excellent choice for container gardening. The abundant foliage and flowers are well-suited to flower boxes or hanging planters. Much of the care of bidens grown in containers remains the same, however it will be important to fertilize these plants since they require rich soil for flowering and overall vitality.
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Miss Chen
2021年10月11日
Miss Chen
Belladonna (Atropa bella-donna) is extremely toxic to toxic to humans,1 cats, dogs, and horses.2 It’s a plant that by no means should you ever plant it in your yard. Belladonna escaped its native areas in Eurasia and has naturalized in other parts of the world. It can be anywhere, almost. It is important to be able to identify belladonna and remove it promptly before it can cause any harm. The botanical name of the genus already gives away how deadly the plant is. Atropa was named in the mid-1700s after Atropos, the Greek goddess who, as one of the three goddesses of fate and destiny, holds the shears to cut the thread of life. The common name and the species name, belladonna, comes from the Italian word for beautiful woman, “bella donna”. Ladies at the Venetian court used eye drops made of belladonna to dilate their pupils, viewed as a sign of special beauty at the time. FEATURED VIDEO How to Remove Coffee Stains From Carpet Which Parts of Belladonna Are Toxic? All parts of belladonna—leaves, flowers, fruits, and roots—are highly toxic.3 Belladonna is also highly toxic to dogs, cats, horses, and other domesticated animals. It is not toxic to birds and wildlife. When honeybees feed on belladonna, the honey they produce can contain significant amounts of atropine, which also makes the honey toxic3—another compelling reason to remove belladonna promptly wherever it pops up.
How to Identify Belladonna Belladonna is a tall, bushy, upright, perennial of the nightshade family. It grows three to four feet high and wide. As a perennial, it comes back every year. The dark green leaves are oval and unevenly sized, ranging from three to ten inches in length. The leaves on the lower part of the plant are solitary, on the upper part of the plant, they grow in pairs. Belladonna blooms for an extended period of time, from June through early September. The flowers are dull purple or lavender with a green tinge and distinctly bell-shaped. The flowers are located in the leaf axils, the angle between the leaf and the upper part of the stem. They are distinctly bell-shaped and have a mild floral scent. The fruit, which ripen between late August and September, are black and shiny like a cherry. The berries are not evenly sized and can reach about three quarters of an inch in size. Once they ripen, the berries dry up quickly. Due to their slight resemblance with wild edible berries, such as blueberries and blackberries, the purplish-black, sweet-tasting fruit of belladonna pose a particular risk of being ingested. Where Does Belladonna Grow? Belladonna is native to England through central and southern Europe, North Africa to Iran. In the United States, belladonna has been found in several states, including New York, Michigan, California, Oregon, and Washington. It often grows in wasteland and areas with disturbed soil such as dumps and quarries, and along roadsides. How Does Belladonna Spread? Belladonna spreads rapidly like a weed. The plant dies back during the winter and regrows in the spring from its thick, fleshy roots. Birds that eat the seeds without any ill effects spread the plant to other locations in their droppings.
How to Get Rid of Belladonna from Your Yard If you have positively identified belladonna in your yard, take all the necessary precautions to avoid skin contact. Wear long sleeves, long pants, boots, and gloves. If the plant is tall and there is the slightest risk that your face can get in contact with the plant, also wear goggles or a full-face respirator. Dig out the plant with all its roots. Be thorough because belladonna regrows from any roots left in the soil. Safely dispose of the entire plant including its roots in the trash. Don’t forget to disinfect the tools you have been using for removing the plant—shovel, pruners etc. with bleach water (1 cup bleach per 1 gallon water). When cleaning the tools, wear waterproof gloves. Wash your clothes immediately and separately from other clothing. If belladonna starts to regrow from residual roots, the most efficient chemical to use is a non-selective herbicide such as glyphosate. Make sure to apply the herbicide when the shoots are still very small to minimize the use of herbicide and hit the plant before it can spread again.
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Miss Chen
2021年10月08日
Miss Chen
The beet plant (Beta vulgaris) is a fast-growing vegetable that can be grown just about anywhere. Although beets are known as a root crop, all parts of the beet plant are edible. Tender beet greens can be harvested when thinning a row of beets, and mature leaves make good greens when it's time to pull up the whole plant. The most commonly known root beets are red, but golden and striped varieties are also available. Beets are a cool-season vegetable crop, so you might be able to get both an early crop planted in the spring as well as a crop planted in the summer or fall. Most beet varieties are ready to harvest about two months after planting.
Common Name Beet, beetroot Botanical Name Beta vulgaris Family Amaranthaceae Plant Type Annual, vegetable Size 12–18 in. tall, 18–24 in. wide Sun Exposure Full sun, part sun Soil Type Loamy, moist, well-drained Soil pH Acidic, neutral (6.0–7.0) Bloom Time Seasonal Hardiness Zones 2–11 (USDA) Native Area Europe How to Plant Beets When to Plant When planting in the spring, wait until the soil has warmed to at least 50 degrees Fahrenheit. You can sow successive plantings roughly every two to three weeks as long as the daytime temperature isn't above 75 degrees Fahrenheit. If you plant your beets in the summer or fall, be sure to leave at least a month before your first expected frost from your last seeding. In warm climates, you might even be able to plant in the fall for a winter harvest. Selecting a Planting Site Beets are easy to grow from seed in the ground or in containers. They need a sunny spot with good soil drainage. Aim to plant them somewhere away from Swiss chard and spinach, as the plants are relatives susceptible to the same pest and disease issues. Spacing, Depth, and Support Plant seeds about 1 to 2 inches apart, and space rows about a foot apart. The seeds should only be about 1/2 inch deep. When seedlings reach 3 to 4 inches tall, thin them to around 4 inches apart. A support structure won’t be necessary. Beet Plant Care Light Beets prefer to grow in full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days. However, they can tolerate some light shade. Soil A light, rich, well-draining soil with a slightly acidic to neutral pH is best. Rocks, clay, weeds, and anything else that can interfere with root development should be removed. Moreover, beets need boron in the soil to prevent black heart, a condition that causes deformed leaves and corky black spots on the roots. You can provide boron by using compost or seaweed extract as a soil amendment. Water Provide at least 1 inch of water every week. Mulching will help to keep the soil from drying out and getting too warm. Temperature and Humidity Beets are not quite as cold-tolerant as some cool-season vegetables, such as broccoli, but they can tolerate a light frost. Temperatures between 50 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit are ideal. Humidity also typically isn't an issue as long as proper soil moisture is maintained and there's air flow around the plants to help inhibit fungal growth. Fertilizer If your soil is not rich in organic matter, supplemental feeding will be necessary starting about two weeks after the beets emerge. Any good vegetable fertilizer will do, following label instructions. Pollination Beets are primarily pollinated by the wind, with flowers not appearing until the plant's second year as it completes its life cycle. As most gardeners grow beets as annuals, not biennials, pollination is not a factor. Types of Beets 'Burpee Golden' beets have a beautiful yellow-orange color but are relatively temperamental when growing. 'Chioggia' is an heirloom beet with concentric red and white circles. 'Detroit Dark Red' is great for fresh eating or canning and pickling. 'Mini Ball' produces individual-sized beets and is great for growing in containers. Beets vs. Radishes Radishes and beets look like they could be varieties of one another. However, they are two entirely different species. While both are round and typically red or purple in color, beets are generally much larger than radishes. Beets also have a bumpier texture. Taste-wise, beets have a bittersweet, earthy flavor while radishes are more peppery. Harvesting Beets Beets take around 55 to 70 days after planting to mature. You can start harvesting beet greens once the plants reach around 3 to 4 inches tall. The greens are most tender before they reach 6 inches, and they can be eaten raw or cooked. Be sure to leave some leaves on the plants, as they’re necessary for root development. Beetroots are ready to harvest when they’re around 1 1/2 to 2 inches in diameter. Larger roots will be tougher and more fibrous. Harvest the beetroots by loosening the soil and gently pulling them out. Leave at least 1 inch of the stem to avoid bleeding during cooking. Beets are ideal root cellar vegetables and can be stored for three to four months packed in sand or sawdust in a cool, dry spot. Beets can also be canned, pickled, or frozen. Fresh beets will keep in the refrigerator for up to a week. How to Grow Beets in Pots Their compact growth habit makes beets a good choice for containers. And container growth is a good option if you don't have the garden space or the right soil conditions to successfully grow beets. The pot should be at least 12 inches deep and 12 to 24 inches wide across the top. Make sure it has holes in the bottom to provide good drainage. Small varieties of beets, including 'Mini Ball' and 'Baby Ball', do particularly well in containers. Pruning Pruning isn't necessary for beet plants beyond thinning seedlings and trimming off leaves as needed to eat. Also, trim off any broken leaves that are dragging on the ground, as they can introduce pests and diseases to the plant. Propagating Beets Beets are one of the many vegetables than can be propagated via scraps. This is an inexpensive, quick, and easy way to get a second harvest of leaves. However, you won’t get bulb regrowth from it. Here’s how: Remove the leaves from the beet, and use them for cooking. Also, remove most of the beetroot, but save the top part (no more than a third of the beet overall). Put the top part in a shallow dish of water with the cut side facing down. Place the dish by a sunny window. Change the water every day or two. You should see new leaf growth in a few days. Start harvesting leaves in about a week as needed. The beet will keep growing leaves for several weeks. How to Grow Beets From Seed The beet seeds that come in packets are really clumps of four to six seeds. You can plant the whole clump and thin the seedlings when they are a few inches tall, or you can try to separate the clumps into individual seeds before planting. The safest way to do this is to gently run a rolling pin over the clumps—but be careful not to crush the seeds. Most gardeners find it easier to simply thin the young greens. You can eat the thinned leaves in salads. To prevent damage to the roots of the plants staying in the ground, thin seedlings by cutting them at the soil line with scissors or shears; do not pull them up. Beet seeds can be slow to germinate because of their tough outer shell. Soaking the seed clusters overnight will help to soften the shell and speed germination. Germination will take about a week in soil above 50 degrees Fahrenheit or up to three weeks in cooler soil. Potting and Repotting Beets A potting mix formulated especially for vegetables is ideal for beets. It's best to pot beets in a container that will accommodate their mature size to avoid having to repot. That way, you won't have to disturb the sensitive roots. Overwintering Beets are most commonly grown as annuals, so no overwintering is necessary. In zones 9 and above, they often can be grown over the winter months. Common Pests and Plant Diseases Many of the common problems with beets are shared by other root vegetables, such as potatoes. In addition to black heart, caused by a boron deficiency (described above), be on the lookout for:
Bacterial infections: A variety of soil bacteria can cause discolored spots on leaves, which can gradually infect the roots. Affected plants should be removed, and rotate crops the next season. Do not plant beets in garden space previously occupied by potatoes. Viral infections: Various viruses, often transmitted by leafhopper insects, can cause twisted, distorted leaves. Combat viruses by planting resistant varieties and fighting leafhoppers with pesticides. Fungal infections: Similar to bacteria, fungal infections cause small brown or gray spots to cover the leaves. To prevent, rotate crops every two to three years. At the first sign of infection, apply a fungicide. Root rot: Usually caused by the Fusarium fungus, root rot causes the above-ground foliate to wilt, as though in need of water, while the underground roots begin to rot away. Root rot tends to appear in cycles; two or three disease-free years might be followed by a bad season where many plants are affected. Root rot can be minimized by keeping your garden weed-free and by avoiding overwatering. Affected plants should be removed. Insect pests: Watch for leaf miners, leafhoppers, flea beetles, aphids, and caterpillars. Pests usually are identified by ragged holes left when they feed on leaves. Use an appropriate pesticide, or pick off pests by hand.
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Miss Chen
2021年10月07日
Miss Chen
Beefsteak tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum "Beefsteak") are meaty, juicy fruits perfect for summer sandwiches or as sliced snacks with a sprinkle of sea salt. Large, thickly fleshed beefsteaks are the biggest type of tomatoes, weighing 1 pound or more. Growing quickly to at least 6 feet tall, the late-maturing tomato plant will produce a bountiful harvest in about 85 days. It needs a sturdy cage, trellis, or stake to support its fruit. Learn to grow and care for this abundant plant and welcome a plentiful harvest to your vegetable garden.
Botanical Name Solanum lycopersicum "Beefsteak" Common Name Beefsteak Tomatoes Plant Type Annual, vegetable Mature Size 6 feet tall or more Sun Exposure Full sun Soil Type Fertile, well-drained Soil pH Slightly acidic Bloom Time Summer Bloom Color Yellow Hardiness Zones 2-11, USDA Native Area Central and South America Toxicity Foliage (not fruit) is toxic to humans and some pets FEATURED VIDEO How to Grow and Care for a Peperomia Plant Beefsteak Tomato Care and Trellising Space tomato plants at least 18 to 36 inches apart. Beefsteak varieties are especially tall and require lots of space and training. For optimal growth and air circulation, space 5 feet or more apart. Tie the plant to a trellis, stake, or cage. They usually grow too tall for a typical tomato cage, so they will need extra support as their baseball-sized fruit can be quite heavy. Dig a 10- to 12-inch deep hole for each plant and consider using a post-hole digger. Establish a post or stake down the center of the row between the two end posts at each end of the row if end posts are more than 20 feet apart. Posts that are 3 inches in diameter and 6 feet tall are ideal. Replace the dirt and pack it in firmly so that the posts do not fall over. Wrap a 12-gauge wire around the top of one end post about 6 feet above the soil surface. Nail or staple the end of the wire to the post. Stretch the wire to make it taut, extend it to the next post, and keep the post anchored in place. Tie a second wire between the posts about 12 inches above the ground. Tie twine to the bottom wire and stretch it to the top wire. Tie the other end to the top. Attach any additional lengths of twine for each plant and space the twine 36 inches apart on the length of the trellis. Once the trellis system is ready, plant a seedling at the base of each length of twine. Plant each seedling deeper than it was growing in its starter pot. Establish deep enough so that the bottom leaf is just above the soil surface. Do this by planting it straight into the soil or sideways to encourage healthy rooting. Beefsteaks thrive most if planted deeper in the ground rather than being planted in containers. As the plant grows, you should prune it regularly. As side branches form on the main stem, pinch out "suckers" or new growth when they are young and only 1/2 inch long that form in the crotch of the stronger branches. Do this weekly throughout the growing season to ensure that the plant develops no more than one or two main stems. This will make it easier for the plant to grow on the trellis, and it will slow upward growth and promote better branching. As the stem grows, wrap it around the twine in the same direction each time. Handle the stem carefully so that it doesn't break. Light Give beefsteak tomatoes full, direct sunlight 8 hours or more per day. Make sure no shadows are cast by nearby buildings or trees. For best results, grow them on a slight slope with southern or southeastern exposure. A well-drained raised garden bed is especially good in cooler climates because it will warm early in the season. Soil As for all tomato plants, provide beefsteaks with well-drained fertile soil that is high in organic matter. Fertile clay and loam produce high yields, while lighter soils drain and warm quickly and will produce earlier harvests. Maintain a pH between 6.0 and 6.8. Keep the bed weeded, and mulch between rows of tomatoes to prevent weed overgrowth and to conserve moisture. Black plastic mulch will warm the soil and radiate heat. Water After planting, water immediately to moisten and settle the soil. Throughout the growing season, keep tomatoes consistently watered, especially as they begin to fruit. Moisture will prevent fruits from cracking and encourage deep rooting. If it rains less than one inch in a week, be sure to water them well. They will need one to two inches of water weekly. Never let the foliage begin to wilt. Fertilizer Before planting, work in compost or other organic amendments. Fertilize plants every three weeks with 1 pound per 100 square feet. Ideal NPK ratios are 8-32-16 or 6-24-24. For smaller gardens, use about one to two level tablespoons of fertilizer per plant every three weeks. Temperature and Humidity Plant tomatoes when temperatures are above 55 degrees Fahrenheit or ideally above 60 degrees. Since they are warm-weather crops, even a light frost can damage plants. In the event of a potential frost or temperature dip, cover the plants with a frost blanket. Growing from Seed Many beefsteak tomato varieties take at least 85 days to harvest. Since this is not possible in much of the United States, it's best to start your own seedlings. Start seedlings indoors six to eight weeks before the first frost of spring when they will be ready to transplant. To extend the fruit-producting season, especially in the southern states, start a second planting of seeds about two or three weeks later. Sow seeds in flats and care for them until they are at least 8 inches tall. Then harden off the seedlings and transplant them after the last spring frost. Your local Cooperative Extension Service can advise you on planting times in your growing zone.
Varieties of Beefsteak Tomato Beefsteak varieties produce fruits in many colors, including red/burgundy, gold/yellow, green, orange, pink, purple/lavender, and variegated. 'Beefmaster,' 'Big Beef,' and 'Big Boy' are among the most popular and easy to find varieties that have adapted to southern heat. 'Mortgage Lifter' and 'Grosse Lisse' are good choices for very humid areas. if you enjoy heirloom varieties, try 'Red Brandywine', 'Pruden's Purple Tomato', also known as 'Prudence', or 'Chocolate Stripes'. Common Pests and Diseases All beefsteak tomato varieties are prone to various diseases and pests. Watch closely for any issues and take care of them as soon as possible. Some common pests are tomato hornworms, aphids, rodents such as squirrels, and flea beetles. Humid weather may cause fungal diseases like early blight and late blight. To remove any aphids, apply a warm stream of water. You can also handpick and destroy beetles, eggs, and larvae. To protect plants from early flea beetle damage, use row covers. To prevent fungal diseases and blossom end rot, water early in the day at the base of the plant, not overhead, and maintain consistent moisture while avoiding waterlogging the soil. Weeding around beefsteak will also encourage good air circulation. Moving forward, the best way to prevent many of these issues is to practice proper crop rotation.
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