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Miss Chen
2021年06月29日
Miss Chen
The African spear plant (Sansevieria cylindrica), also known as the cylindrical snake plant, is a succulent that consists of upright, gray-green, subtly striped leaves. The leaves are cylindrical in shape but narrow to a point at their tips. When grown in optimal conditions, African spear plants might send up a long flower spike from their center that's full of tiny, delicate, white blooms. They are best planted at the start of the growing season in the spring, and they’re generally a slow-growing succulent. Botanical Name Sansevieria cylindrica Common Names African spear plant, cylindrical snake plant, spear sansevieria Plant Type Succulent Mature Size 4–6 ft. tall, 1–2 ft. wide Sun Exposure Full, partial Soil Type Sandy, well-drained Soil pH Neutral Bloom Time Sporadic Flower Color White Hardiness Zones 10–11 (USDA) Native Area Africa Toxicity Toxic to pets and humans
African Spear Plant Care African spear plants are generally very low maintenance. They will survive if you forget to water or feed them, and they can thrive being root-bound in a pot. They are hardy plants that don’t typically have problems with diseases or pests, and they’re not overly picky about their growing conditions. In fact, you are more likely to put too much into their care and end up overwatering or overfeeding them than you are to harm them with neglect. During the growing season (spring to fall) they will appreciate semiregular watering and occasional fertilizing. And over the winter plan to avoid fertilization and water minimally. Get this routine right, and that's the majority of the care that goes into keeping an African spear plant happy and healthy. You typically won’t have any pruning to do on this plant, but you can remove leaves that have yellowed or otherwise discolored for aesthetic purposes. Simply cut them at their base with sterilized pruning shears. You also can remove plant offshoots that pop up from the soil to start new plants. Wait until these baby plants are at least 6 inches high before cutting them off from the main plant and planting them separately. If you’re growing your plant in a container, you likely won’t have to repot it more than every few years once the roots start noticeably growing out of the pot. Move it just to one container size up, as its roots still will like being a little cramped. A heavy pot that is shallow and wide is best, as it will anchor the weight of the leaves; otherwise, your plant might easily tip over. Also, be sure the pot has ample drainage holes. Light These plants can tolerate somewhat low light conditions, but they prefer some full sunlight along with bright filtered light. Outdoors they will appreciate morning sun but should be protected from direct hot afternoon sun. Indoors they like a bright north-facing window. Too strong of light can cause the leaves to yellow around the edges, and too little light can result in subpar leaf growth. Soil Like most succulents, these plants prefer a sandy soil that has excellent drainage and doesn’t retain water. A potting mix made especially for succulents is ideal. Water African spear plants can survive long periods of drought. And being left in soggy soil or standing water for too long can cause the roots to rot. Let the soil dry out between waterings, and then water the plant deeply. Watering every week to every other week is generally enough. If you’re growing your plant in a container, be sure to empty the saucer of any excess water that comes through the drainage holes. During the winter months, put a little more time between your waterings than you did during the growing season. Watering roughly once a month should be fine. Temperature and Humidity These succulents grow naturally in hot, dry climates, and cold temperatures can damage or kill them. Make sure they remain in temperatures above 50 degrees Fahrenheit. That includes protecting them from cool drafts, such as those from air conditioners. Humidity usually isn’t an issue as long as the soil isn’t saturated. Fertilizer African spear plants can live in lean soil, and they don’t require much fertilizer. Feed them with a succulent fertilizer diluted to half strength monthly from spring to fall. During the winter no fertilization is necessary.
Is the African Spear Plant Toxic? Like other members of the Sansevieria genus, all parts of African spear plants are toxic to pets and people when ingested. The reaction is usually mild, but it can cause severe symptoms in small animals or children who ingest a lot of the plant. Symptoms of Poisoning For both pets and people, symptoms of toxicity generally involve gastrointestinal issues, most commonly nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. If you suspect poisoning, contact a medical professional as soon as possible for treatment instructions. African Spear Plant Varieties There are just a few varieties of African spear plants available, including: Sansevieria cylindrica 'Spaghetti’: This cultivar features especially thin leaves. Sansevieria cylindrica ‘Skyline’: This cultivar sports large, erect leaves. Sansevieria cylindrica ‘Patula’: This plant’s leaves grow outward and bend down more than most other varieties.
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Miss Chen
2021年06月26日
Miss Chen
The African milk tree (Euphorbia trigona) is native to Central Africa. It is often grown as a hedge there, useful for its rapid and enthusiastic growth, though its roots are not invasive. Though it looks a lot like a cactus, it is actually a succulent plant. It has many folk names, including candelabra cactus, cathedral cactus, friendship cactus, good luck plant. or good luck cactus (the good luck attribution is probably due to how quickly it grows, and how easily it propagates). It stays lush and green throughout its growing season, and new growth has a lighter green color than the base plant. The Rubra or Royal Red cultivar is very popular for its dramatic coloring: it takes on bright red accents later in the season.
Botanical Name Euphorbia trigona Common Name African Milk Tree, African Milk Bush Plant Type Succulent Mature Size 6 to 8 ft. Sun Exposure Indirect sun to partial shade Soil Type Medium rich, well-drained Soil pH 6.1 to 7.8 (mildly acidic to mildly alkaline) Bloom Time Spring, Summer Flower Color White (outdoors only) Hardiness Zones 9b to 11 (USDA) Native Areas Central Africa Toxicity Sap toxic African Milk Tree Care The African milk tree is long-lived and can grow very vigorously, up to two feet a year in height, to a total of eight feet tall. It is fairly easy to propagate also, similar to a cactus, where one simply breaks off one of the "arms" and roots in potting medium. They're grown by many gardeners in states with arid climates where the temperatures at night don't go below 50 degrees Fahrenheit, such as parts of Texas, Arkansas, and Arizona. It's hardy in Zones 9b through 11 in the United States, and can probably survive to Zone 8 with winter protection. The African milk tree is also popular as a decorative landscape or container plant throughout South America, and in the Mediterranean regions of Europe. Its dramatic size makes it a sought after plant for plant enthusiasts, and they may require training through pruning and staking. The African milk tree is also very drought-tolerant and useful for xeriscaping. Because they grow so tall, but have a comparatively small root system, they can topple over, so be sure to keep them pruned and use staking when needed. Light This succulent likes indirect but bright sunlight. A southern-facing window will work well for it indoors or an outdoor spot with partial sun. Full sun is suitable as long as the summers are not too consistently hot. Extra watering may be needed to offset too much bright sunlight. Soil This plant is not too fussy about soil but good drainage is essential. Heavy clay soils may hamper growth, and impede drainage. Since this plant is a good choice for xeriscaping, sandy soils are a good fit, and sandy loam probably works best of all. Water Being a succulent, the African milk tree doesn't need much water. If there is a very bad drought, consider supplemental watering at the roots. But otherwise normal rainfall should be sufficient. Indoor specimens should be watered moderately once a week. Let the soil dry out between each watering to mimic its natural habitat. Temperature and Humidity This drought-tolerant plant enjoys a dry or arid climate, and can tolerate fairly hot temperatures. If grown in a place with very hot summers, the plant should be located in a spot with indirect sunlight or partial shade, to avoid overheating. This plant doesn't need any extra humidity, and growing it in an environment that is too humid may cause issues such as fungus or pests. Fertilizer During the plant's growing season in the spring and summer, treat it to water-soluble fertilizer once a month. Is African Milk Tree Toxic? The milky white sap responsible for this plant's common name is also a skin irritant, as well as an oral toxin, so handle the plant carefully and wear gloves. All parts of this plant are toxic to humans and animals if ingested. Wear protective gloves and wash hands when handling this plant. Symptoms of Poisoning If humans or animals ingest any part of the plant or sap, skin and/or eyes may experience burning, redness, blisters, and swelling. Sap in the eyes can cause conjunctivitis. Ingestion of the sap irritates lips, tongue, and throat. Wash skin and rinse eyes of the sap immediately. If symptoms are severe, immediately seek medical assistance. Pruning African milk trees don't always require pruning. But because they grow so tall, but have a comparatively small, shallow root system, it's not unusual for them to become top-heavy or to even topple over, so pruning may be necessary. Use a sharp and sterilized knife to prune stems. The cut will dry over and create a callus on its own. Make sure the plant is balanced on both sides because a shallow root system can't always hold down a plant that's too heavy on one side. Propagating African Milk Tree The African milk tree propagates easily. You only need a pair of scissors or hand pruners, and a container with potting medium. Use proper protective gear when propagating, like heavy gloves, and wash immediately if you get any of the milky sap on your skin. Here are the easy steps: Cut one of the "arms" off with sharp shears or scissors at its base. Rinse the arm with running cold water until it stops oozing. Let the arm sit in a dry spot on a paper towel and out of direct sun for five to seven days so the cut tip can callus over (this prevents rotting). (Note: Many growers bypass the callus stage and put the cutting directly into soil as soon as it is cut. Growth should occur within three weeks with this method.) Once the callus has formed, then you can plant it in a small pot (about 4-inches wide). Plant the cutting so it sits about an inch below the soil. Add a layer of course gravel on top of the soil to help keep the cutting stay upright. Place the pot in a warm area with a temperature of between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. It should be well-lit but out of the direct sun. The cutting should root within two months. As soon as you see growth, transplant the plant into a slightly larger, 6-inch pot. How to Grow African Milk Tree From Seed Though you can grow the plant from seeds, it's not typically recommended. The seeds can be difficult to find and they are even more difficult and slow to germinate. It's better to propagate the plant using cuttings. If you do find seeds, plant them in well-draining soil. Potting and Repotting African Milk Tree Good drainage and reducing the risk of overwatering this plant are important considerations when potting and repotting. The African milk tree will do best in a porous clay pot that absorbs water. Avoid glazed pots that don't absorb water very well, which adds to the risk of overwatering the plant. A sandy soil or potting mix formulated for succulents allows for better water drainage. Add pumice or perlite to the potting soil, as well, to aid drainage.
Repotting the plant every year or two into a larger pot as it continues to grow taller will ensure that there's enough room for the roots to hold the plant in place, though potentially with a little staking help. It may take two people to repot a very large African milk tree so that the plant is not damaged in the process. Wear protective gear and gloves when working with this plant. Overwintering African milk trees won't survive the cold. They typically won't flourish if temperatures go below 50 or 55 degrees Fahrenheit. If the tree is potted, bring it indoors. Place it in a room with good air circulation to cut down on humidity. Set it near a brightly lit window, but one with indirect sunlight. Common Pests & Diseases The African milk tree is usually not problematic with pests or diseases. However, watch for cotton-like threads made by mealybugs on African milk trees. To remove them, mix a solution of water and a few drops of mild dish detergent. Wipe the bugs off with a cloth dipped in the solution. You can also use a paper towel and rubbing alcohol to remove the bugs. Outdoors, spray bugs off the plant with the garden hose. Overwatering can cause fungal problems, such as cork disease. The stems will develop cork-like patches. Try saving the plant by cutting off the stems with these patches. Yellowing or browning of the plant may also indicate root rot from overwatering. You will likely need to dispose of the plant.
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Miss Chen
2021年06月25日
Miss Chen
Hailing from Southeast Asia, Amazon elephant's ear is a popular tropical plant that is sometimes also referred to as African mask. It's a hybrid varietal that makes a striking and beautiful houseplant and is typically sold as such. It can be purchased, planted, and cared for year-round in an indoor environment. Amazon elephant's ear is defined by its deep green leaves, which are accentuated by whitish or light green veins. The leaves are roughly serrated, and in some cases, the leaf color appears as an almost purple-green. The plant will grow quickly, reaching a mature height of up to 2 feet. Amazon elephant ear plants rarely bloom (especially indoors), and are grown primarily for their eye-catching foliage. Botanical Name Alocasia x amazonica Common Name Amazon elephant's ear, African mask Plant Type Tropical Mature Size 1–2 ft. tall, 1–2 ft. wide Sun Exposure Partial shade Soil Type Moist but well-drained Soil pH Neutral to acidic Bloom Time Spring, summer (rarely blooms) Flower Color Green Hardiness Zones 9–11 (USDA) Native Area Asia Toxicity Toxic to humans, dogs, and cats
Amazon Elephant's Ear Care The good news is that growing Amazon elephant's ear is pretty easy. They like filtered sun or shade and rich, moist soil. Like most tropical plants, they thrive in warm temperatures and high humidity and crave plenty of water. These plants are best propagated by division during the spring. In a healthy specimen with multiple stems, corms can be dug up from the existing pot and repotted into smaller pots. Cut away dead and dying leaves for the best presentation. Light Amazon elephant's ear plants require lots of bright, indirect light. They can survive in 80 percent shade but prefer about 60 percent shade, which will guarantee you the best growth and a rich, green shade on the leaves. Take care not to expose the plant to harsh direct rays of sunlight, which can bleach or scorch the leaves. Soil This plant prefers a fast-draining, well-aerated potting soil. An organic, loose soil that contains a good amount of peat moss is ideal. If your soil mixture is too heavy, you can lighten it with some sand or perlite. Water Keep the soil moist but remember that Amazon elephant's ear plants do not like wet feet. If possible, water your plant in the morning from below (at the root zone) to keep the leaves from getting too wet. The plant needs a rest period in winter, so allow the soil to become almost dry between waterings during these months. However, if it dries completely, the plant may go dormant. Temperature and Humidity As a tropical plant, Amazon elephant's ear will go dormant or die if exposed to cold temperatures. It likes to be in a climate similar to its native Southeast Asia, with temperatures ranging between 65 degrees Fahrenheit and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Additionally, the plant loves above-average humidity levels. You can start by housing your Amazon elephant's ear in a typically humid room in your home (like a bathroom), but you may also need to place the plant on a humidity tray with pebbles or invest in a small space a humidifier to put nearby. Fertilizer Amazon elephant's ear tends to be a heavy feeder during its growing period and will respond well to applications of a diluted balanced fertilizer. Starting in spring, feed the plant every two weeks, stopping at the end of August, then beginning the cycle again at the start of the following spring. Occasionally, the plant's leaves will yellow—if this happens, try adding fertilizer with micronutrients, or sprinkle Epsom salts around the base of the plant once a month. Is Amazon Elephant's Ear Toxic? Elephant's ear is a mildly poisonous houseplant and should be kept away from any curious children or pets that may be tempted to eat or bite the plant. If a person or pet is poisoned by elephant's ear, call the proper poison control center or emergency services promptly. Most symptoms will disappear within several days to a week if treated properly. Symptoms of Poisoning in Humans Nausea Vomiting Stomach cramps Redness, pain, or burning of the eyes Burning in the mouth or throat Facial swelling (including tongue, mouth, and eyes) Symptoms of Poisoning in Animals Oral irritation Pain and swelling of mouth, tongue, and lips Excessive drooling Vomiting Difficulty swallowing
Potting and Repotting Amazon Elephant's Ear When growing Amazon elephant's ear in a pot, choose a stable container with ample room to support the plant's growth. A well-grown plant may need yearly repotting. Keep in mind, however, that these plants like to be slightly under-potted for best foliage development. Common Pests & Diseases Amazon elephant's ear is typically not susceptible to diseases, but over-watering can lead to fungal infections. If you notice dark brown or black spots (often accompanied by a yellowish rim on the leaves), that's a good sign that a fungal infection is brewing. To treat, remove the damaged leaves, move the plant away from any other plants, and treat it with a fungicide spray. Misting it with a soapy water mixture every few weeks can also help to help deter pests such as mealybugs, spider mites, and aphids—and serve to keep your Amazon elephant's ear dust-free.
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Miss Chen
2021年06月23日
Miss Chen
African daisies (Osteospermum spp.) look a lot like common daisies, with petals radiating around a center disk. They are even in the Asteraceae family, along with shasta daisies and zinnias. But their vivid coloring is not at all like the classic daisy. In fact, when African daisies were first introduced to the market, some people thought they must have been dyed. The center disks of the flowers even can look like they're colored with metallic paint. The leaves vary by variety; they can be lance-like or broadly ovate and smooth, toothed, or lobed. Petals can be smooth and flat like a typical daisy, or they can radiate out in a tubular spoon shape. These flowers are best planted in the spring after the threat of frost has passed, and they have a fairly quick growth rate, blooming about two months after planting. Botanical Name Osteospermum spp. Common Names African daisy, blue-eyed daisy, Cape daisy Plant Type Perennial Mature Size 1–3 ft. tall, 1–2 ft. wide Sun Exposure Full Soil Type Moist, well-drained Soil pH Acidic Bloom Time Spring, summer, fall Flower Color Purple, pink, yellow, orange, white, bicolor Hardiness Zones 9–11 (USDA) Native Area Africa, Asia Toxicity Nontoxic
African Daisy Care African daisies work equally well in the ground or in containers. Blooms peak in late spring to early summer and again in late summer to early fall. Because African daisies stop blooming during hot spells, they are best grown in combination with other plants that will have visual interest in the peak of summer. These flowers are fairly low-maintenance when grown in an environment they like. Make sure they have lots of sun and soil with good drainage. Plan to water and fertilize regularly throughout the growing season (spring to fall). Also, deadhead the plants (remove the spent blooms) to encourage reblooming. Light African daisies bloom best in full sun. They can tolerate partial shade, but this will likely cause them to produce fewer flowers. Moreover, the blooms generally open in response to light and close at night and during overcast weather. However, some newer cultivars, including '4D Pink', '4D Silver', and '4D Berry', remain open at night. Soil African daisies prefer organically rich soil with sharp drainage and a slightly acidic soil pH. Add compost or other organic matter to the soil at the time of planting to improve drainage and add nutrients. Water Although somewhat drought tolerant once established, African daisies still need at least 1 inch of water per week to grow their best. During periods of drought or intense heat, the plants will slow down and go dormant. Aim to keep the soil evenly moist. But don't overwater, as soggy soil can encourage diseases such as root rot. Temperature and Humidity African daisies prefer mild weather, which is when they bloom most profusely. They can handle nighttime temperatures down to about 40 degrees Fahrenheit, though frost can damage or kill them. Humidity typically isn't an issue for them, as long as they have good air circulation and proper watering and soil drainage. Fertilizer These flowers like a lot of food to grow and bloom at their best. Besides mixing compost into the soil, apply a fertilizer for flowering plants monthly throughout the growing season. African Daisy Varieties There are dozens of African daisy species and varieties, including: Osteospermum 'Passion Mix': This compact plant reaches around a foot tall and comes in a variety of colors (pink, purple, rose, and white), all with blue centers. This is an easy variety to grow from seed and is known for its heat tolerance. Osteospermum '4D': Known for their fluffy, tufted centers, these flowers remain open all day even in hot weather. The plants grow up to 14 inches high. Osteospermum 'Flower Power Spider White': These blooms have odd, spoon-shaped, white and lavender petals with a gold center. The plants grow roughly 14 inches tall. Osteospermum 'Lemon Symphony': This plant's butter-yellow petals have a purple center and orange eye. The variety grows about 14 inches high. Osteospermum 'Sideshow Copper Apricot': This variety has striking pale apricot flowers with a purple center disk. It grows up to 12 inches high.
Propagating African Daisies The majority of African daisy varieties are hybrids and won't grow from seeds saved from the plants. But you can easily propagate your plants by cuttings. To do so, first fill a shallow tray with a sterile seed-starting mixture. Dampen the mix slightly. Then, take plant cuttings 2 to 3 inches long that have at least two sets of leaf nodes. Pinch off any flower buds that are present, and remove the lower leaves. Dip the cut end in rooting hormone, and then plant the cut end in the seed-starting mix. Cover the tray with a plastic dome, and place it in a location with bright indirect light and temperatures between 60 and 68 degrees Fahrenheit. In four to six weeks, the plants should be sufficiently rooted to transplant to pots or to an outdoor garden location. Common Pests/Diseases There aren't many pests or diseases that attack African daisies if the plants are kept stress-free in the proper environment. However, in damp or humid conditions be on the lookout for fungal diseases, such as gray mold.1 Such diseases will present with damaged or discolored foliage. Try to improve the air circulation around your plant, which can combat fungal diseases, and use a fungicide if necessary. Moreover, some common plant pests, including whiteflies and aphids, can become a problem, especially for stressed plants.2 But they can be controlled with an insecticidal soap or chemical spray if caught early.
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Miss Chen
2021年06月21日
Miss Chen
The Aerangis genus comprises many tropical orchids which can be distinguished by their lovely white, star-shaped flowers. The genus contains about 50 plants, and though they mostly originate in tropical regions of Africa, a few are also native to the islands of the Indian ocean. Aerangis orchids, though uncommon in cultivation, are not overly difficult to grow, even by novices. However, they don't react well to sudden environmental changes, and like all orchids, plants are often lost to sudden changes in temperature or humidity. Typically, these orchids are epiphytes—plants that grow attached to trees rather than in soil—and they’re often grown in hanging baskets filled with bark chip/ sphagnum moss mixture. The best and most distinctive feature of an Aerangis plant is its waxy flowers, which are usually white or yellow and shaped like five-pointed stars. Not only do these flowers give off a pleasant aroma, but they also bloom with regularity.
A single Aerangis specimen can bear many flowers at once. Their leaves are evergreen, and their spurs contain nectar that is pleasing to birds. Despite their relative rarity, several species of Aerangis plants, such as A. citrata, are sometimes grown by hobbyists, and there are also a few hybrids available to orchid aficionados and botanical experts. Gardeners who can mimic the tropical conditions in which the Aerangis orchid thrives will want to consider this understated and pleasant genus. Botanical Name Aerangis spp. Common Name Aerangis orchids Plant Type Epiphytic orchids Mature Size 6–24 inches (varies by species) Sun Exposure Part sun, bright filtered light Soil Type Orchid potting mix Soil pH 5.5 to 6.0 (acidic) Bloom Time Spring to fall (varies by species) Flower Color White, yellow Hardiness Zones 10–11 (USDA) Native Area Tropical Africa, Madagascar Toxicity Non-toxic Aerangis Orchid Care As is true of most tropical orchids, successfully growing Aerangis plants depends on maintaining a proper balance of the various elements on which they depend. They need a well-aerated environment, lots of sunlight, and lots of moisture in the air. Remember to feed them regularly, and if their blooms are insufficient you can always increase the fertilizer levels. ​ Aerangis plants are especially well-suited to grow vertically on a hard surface, so certainly consider mounting your plant if you grow one. These are fairly simple orchids that beginners should be able to grow with a little effort; just watch out for common orchid pests, like scale and aphids, that may prey on your plants. Light These tropical orchids need lots of bright indirect light in order to thrive, but they don't care for direct sunlight. They prefer a bit more shade than other orchids, and the best environment will simulate the light of an open location location on a brightly overcast day. Soil A well-draining epiphyte mix is best, such as chopped sphagnum moss with styrofoam or wood chips. A standard orchid mix works well when growing these plants in hanging baskets. Good drainage is essential, as standing water will kill these plants. Water Aerangis orchids need a very moist environment, especially when grown epiphytically. Keep them well-watered at all times. A thorough misting every day is often required. Temperature and Humidity These plants require warm tropical temperatures above 50 degrees Fahrenheit. These plants are not frost-tolerant, and they don't react well to sudden changes in temperature. In native locations, many of these species grow at higher altitudes in tropical zones, so they don't necessarily need the deep heat of jungle bottomlands. Nighttime temps in the 50- to 60-degree range and daytime temps from 70 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit are ideal. These plants like humidity levels of at least 75 percent, so they will grow best in a greenhouse or terrarium environment. If grown in an open environment, plan on misting them every day with room-temperature water (not cold water). Fertilizer Feed regularly with a balanced, diluted fertilizer during the growing season in spring and summer. Their fertilizer can be scaled back during the dormant season in fall and winter. Aerangis Orchid Varieties One relatively popular Aerangis is A. citrata, a variant from Madagascar with yellowish flowers. It’s from those flowers that it derives its name, which means “lemon-colored”. Some other popular species include A. articulata, A. biloba, A. fastuosa, A. flabellifolia, A. mystacidii, and A. somasticta. Also popular with collectors are the several hybrids, developed by crossing Aerangis with other orchid genera—the Aerangis genus hybridizes easily with Angraecum, Aeranthes, and several other orchid variants. Potting and Repotting Many people mount Aerangis plants on a sheer, vertical surface, like cork or hardwood. If you choose to grow your plants this way, repotting them won’t be necessary. However, they are often grown hanging baskets filled with a typical orchid mix that blends sphagnum moss and fine wood chips. In this case, it’s a good idea to change out the container once every few years. Lift the plant as a whole and try not to damage its root systems, which are fairly fragile.
Propagating Aerangis Orchids These epiphytes can be propagated by division. Cut away a large section from the stem and replant it in warm, moist conditions. Many gardeners cover new divisions with bags in order to seal in moisture, and you can also treat the cuttings with rooting hormone. Be patient: It can take a little while for tropical orchids to root in a new environment. Common Pests/Diseases Orchids can be temperamental plants, susceptible to many pests and diseases, which are more likely to occur when plants are in less-than-ideal cultural conditions. Mites, mealybugs, and scale insects are common pests, best treated by dabbing them with a swab soaked in isopropyl alcohol. Fungal or bacterial leaf spots often occur when the plant is too wet or too cold. Affected spots on leaves should be carefully cut away with a razor blade, with the cut edges of the leaves treated with a fungicide powder. These plants have sparse foliage, so this is usually not a difficult task. Viral infections can cause serious distortion of leaves, and affected plants will need to be destroyed. Flower bud drop can be caused by too much or too little water, or temps that are too low or too high. Getting these conditions just right is the biggest challenge when growing orchids.
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Miss Chen
2021年06月19日
Miss Chen
Aeonium is a genus including about 35 succulent plant species with unusually glossy, waxy leaves arranged in rosettes. The species range from the low-growing A. tabuliforme and A. smithii, just a few inches across, to large species several feet across, such as A. arboreum, A. valverdense, and A. holochrysum. The leaves and structure of the plant are so perfect that these species are sometimes mistaken for artificial plants. The leaves of Aeoniums are typically rounded and arranged in rosettes around center hubs at the end of stems. The foliage can be a solid color, or variegated in white, yellow, red, and green. Small, star-like flowers grow in clusters from the center of the rosettes, but they are not particularly showy. The fleshy leaves make these plants quite similar to several other succulent plants, most noticeably ​Echeveria and Sempervivum—the popular hens and chicks. Aeoniums can be planted in the garden at any time. These are rather slow-growing plants, and it may take as much as five years before they bloom. Latin Name Aeonium spp. Common Names Aeonium Plant Type Perennial succulent Mature Size 2–60 inches (depending on species and variety) Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade Soil Type Sandy loam Soil pH 5.6–6.0 (slightly acidic) Bloom Time Late winter or spring Flower Color Pink (flowering is rare, occurring only in mature plants) Hardiness Zones 9–11(USDA); often grown as potted plants brought indoors for winter Native Area Canary Islands, Africa Toxicity Non-toxic Aeonium Care In warmer climates, Aeoniums can be grown as in the ground as perennials, but it is also common to grow them as potted plants on decks or patios. In colder regions, they should be grown in containers and taken inside before frost. When grown in the garden, Aeoniums command the most attention when grouped in masses. Tall varieties can look like bonsai when they get shrubby; you can trim them if they get too leggy. The cuttings will readily root and make new plants, helping you fill out your planting area. If you have the proper growing conditions, Aeoniums require very little pampering. Otherwise, your major task will be moving them from hot sun to shade and back again, watering, and moving them indoors when the temperature drops too low. Aeoniums have shallow root systems since they store their water in their leaves and stems. Unlike other succulents, which prefer dry soil, Aeoniums prefer soil that is moist but not wet. They can produce roots along their stems, which you may notice if the plant gets pot bound or the stems fall and touch the soil. Make sure these roots do not dry out. The stem roots will quickly turn the fallen pieces into new plants. Leggy branches do tend to fall over and snap off from the weight of the rosettes. If this happens, you can re-plant the broken stem. Keep an eye out for pests on Aeoniums. Slugs can do some damage, and aphids, mealybugs, and ants also enjoy Aeoniums. Treat the plant with a spray of water or mild insecticidal soap to remove these pests. Light As with most succulents, Aeonium plants grow best in full sun to part shade. In hot summers and desert conditions, light shade may be necessary. Indoors, give them bright indirect light. Soil A sandy loam or regular potting mix amended with perlite is better than a mix specifically for succulents and cacti since Aeoniums need some moisture. If grown in garden beds with dense soil, it may be necessary to amend with peat moss to improve soil porosity. Water In the winter, water whenever the top inch of soil has dried out. Test by poking your finger down into the soil an inch or two. These plants do like more moisture than many other succulents, but too much moisture or allowing them to sit in wet soil will cause root rot. Temperature and Humidity These plants prefer a Mediterranean climate—not too hot, not too cold, not too dry. Most Aeonium varieties are only hardy in USDA Zones 9 to 11. Growing Aeoniums in moist shade will keep them growing in high heat, but their true growth season is winter to spring, when temperatures are cool (65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit) and damp. They may go dormant in summer and do not require excessive watering, except in excessively dry conditions. In extreme heat, their leaves will curl to prevent excessive water loss. Fertilizer Feed during the growing season with a half-strength balanced fertilizer every month or so. Do not feed while dormant. Aeonium Varieties Aeonium arboreum: This widely available plant has bright green rosettes on a branching stem. It has a shrubby form and can grow as tall as 6 feet in the garden, or 3 feet in containers. Aeonium arboreum 'Atropurpureum': This 3- to 5-foot tall cultivar has maroon leaves if grown in bright light.​ Aeonium arboreum 'Zwartkop': This cultivar has very dark, almost black leaves.​ It, too, is a fairly large plant. Aeonium 'Garnet': A hybrid cross of A. 'Zwarkop' and A. tabuliforme, this variety's leaves are green toward the middle and tipped with dark red. Aeonium davidbramwelli 'Sunburst': This variety is a shorter, 1- to 2-foot tall plant but has rosettes up to 1 foot across with pale yellow, white and green stripes, and pink tips. Aeonium haworthii 'Tricolor' or 'Kiwi': An easy growing 2- to 3-foot plant, it has 4-inch flowers that have pale yellow centers when young, maturing to red and green. Potting and Repotting Needing so little soil, Aeoniums are great for growing in containers, where you can get a closer look at their unique features and have better control over their growing conditions. In high humidity or rainy areas, you may not need to water them at all. Choose a container with a drainage hole to avoid standing water and root rot. To help maintain the necessary moisture levels, use a regular potting mix rather than a fast-draining succulent/cactus mix. If you are growing Aeoniums in containers, re-pot every 2 to 3 years with fresh potting soil. Propagating Aeoniums Like many succulents, Aeoniums are very easy to propagate from cuttings. Even stem pieces that fall off the plant may readily take root in the surrounding soil. Cut off a stem piece containing a leaf rosette. Place the cutting in shade and allow the cut end to heal for about three days. Fill a small pot with drainage holes with a mixture of half regular potting soil and half cactus/succulent potting mix. Place the severed end of the cutting into the potting mix, just deep enough to hold it upright. Place the pot in bright indirect light and water it lightly once each week. Once the plant has developed strong roots, allow the top 2 inches of soil to dry out before watering. Re-pot into a larger container as needed. Most Aeoniums are monocarpic, meaning that the mother plant dies after flowering. However, if the plant has produced side shoots, those side shoots will live on. If not, the entire plant will die off. That's why it is nice to start new plants from cuttings periodically. You can also start new plants from the seed.
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Miss Chen
2021年06月17日
Miss Chen
The Acoma crape myrtle is a hybrid variety of the Lagerstroemia, most frequently known by its common name the crape (or crepe) myrtle. This particular variety only attains a height up to ten feet or so and is frequently reported as staying small in size and being more shrub-like instead of appearing like a tree. These plants are a great option for planting in urban or suburban environments. Its small size makes it an ideal option for gardens or lawns, or it can be used as part of a commercial landscaping plan. In addition, this cultivar demonstrates greater resistance to powdery mildew—a frequent problem with some crape myrtle trees. Botanical Name Lagerstroemia x ‘Acoma’ Common Name Acoma crape myrtle Plant Type Tree Mature Size 2 to 10 feet tall and 2 to 10 feet wide Sun Exposure Full sun Soil Type Well-draining Soil pH Slightly acidic to neutral Bloom Time Spring, summer Flower Color White Hardiness Zones 7 to 9 Native Area Asia, Australia How to Grow Acoma Crape Myrtle The Acoma crape myrtle is a rewarding shrub or small tree to cultivate since it produces weeping branches with lush foliage and delicate blooms. While this variety requires abundant sun, it succeeds in a variety of soil conditions and has just basic needs for water or fertilizer. Described as having a medium rate of growth, you’ll have plenty of time to watch these trees mature. Just don’t think you'll have much more to do than watch; the Acoma crepe myrtle requires only occasional pruning of its lower branches. Light Full sun is necessary for crape myrtle to bloom to its full potential. These plants are known for their beautiful blooms, and to make the most of the flowering display, ensure that your crape myrtle receives at least six hours of sun each day. Soil The crape myrtle is adaptable to varying soil conditions—including loam, clay, or sandy soils, as long as the ground is well-draining. When it comes to soil pH, these plants prefer slightly acidic to neutral pH levels, but they can grow in slightly alkaline soils as well. Water When first planted, the crape myrtle will need regular watering as it gets established. However, once mature, these plants have modest water needs and do well with about an inch of water per week. They have proven to be relatively drought-resistant, but keep in mind that a lack of water during bloom season may result in a less showy display. If possible, supplement rainfall with regular watering if you experience an extended period of dry weather and you don’t want to see your flower production impacted. Temperature and Humidity Like other crape myrtle varieties that thrive in the sun and heat, the Acoma crape myrtle does well even in hot climates, and it has a tolerance for humidity or drought. On the other end of the spectrum, it is hardy in USDA zones 7 to 9, and can generally withstand temperatures down to about zero-degrees Fahrenheit successfully. Fertilizer For the best blooms, you may need to fertilize your crape myrtle. While these plants are adaptable to even low nutrient soil conditions, they do require sufficient nitrogen to support bloom production. If you have soil that is lacking, then you might consider fertilizing your Acoma crape myrtle with a balanced formula—like an 8-8-8 or 10-10-10. The fertilizer can be applied at the start of the growing season and should be distributed immediately after rain or else watered sufficiently afterwards. While the right amount of fertilizer can bring out the best in your crape myrtle, too much can have an adverse effect. Be cautious that you don’t supply too many nutrients—doing so can lead to foliage overgrowth and reduced blossoms. Propagating Acoma Crape Myrtle The most successful way of propagating Acoma crape myrtle is by cuttings. You can either use soft or hardwood cuttings, in addition to root cuttings. Follow these steps to propagate with cuttings: Use clean scissors or garden shears to remove hardwood or softwood cuttings. Hardwood cuttings should be about eight inches in length. Take hardwood cuttings once the tree has become dormant for the year, typically in the late fall. Softwood cuttings are obtained in the spring or summer and should be about six inches in length with several nodes. Plant the cutting in a container with quality potting soil, leaving about one inch of the cutting above the soil line. Maintain soil moisture and position the pot in a location that receives plenty of sun. Softwood cuttings should see new growth in about a month. Hardwood cuttings will grow more slowly, but won’t be ready for planting until summer anyway. Once the cutting has taken root and is showing signs of new growth, it can be planted out. Be sure to water generously and position your new plant in a location with abundant light. Toxicity of Acoma Crape Myrtle If you’re concerned about your pets or other animals nibbling on your crape myrtle, you can rest assured that this tree will do them no harm. The Acoma crape myrtle is non-toxic, to both animals and humans. Pruning Keep your Acoma crape myrtle in good form with light pruning; this is best done in the spring before the lush foliage fills the branches. Since this hybrid variety is known for having a petite form, it won’t need extensive pruning to retain its height, but you may want to clean up low branches on the tree to show off the attractive red-and-white smooth bark. In addition, you can spur the tree on to increased branching by pinching off new growth, which will encourage your crape myrtle to grow fuller and bushier rather than taller. In addition, remove spent blossoms to support further flowering. Common Pests While crepe myrtle trees are often subject to powdery mildew, one of the advantages of this hybrid variety is increased resistance to this fungus. However, Acoma trees are still subject to infestation by aphids. While this can produce a black mold, it isn’t overly threatening or damaging to the tree.
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Miss Chen
2021年06月15日
Miss Chen
Selecting the Cuttings SELECT THE BEST POSSIBLE STOCK PLANTS The best stock plants produce the best cuttings used for propagation. During each growing cycle, growers must select plants that exhibit the best growth characteristics; these are selected as ‘stock plants’. ‘Off-shore’ cuttings are from selected and maintained stock plants. The same selection process can be done at one’s own growing facility. JUVENILE CUTTINGS Cuttings taken from the newer juvenile parts of many plants root better than older mature parts. Shoots at the tops of the plant are physiologically older (more mature) than the shoots at the bottom of the plant (more juvenile). The top shoots have the characteristics of the more mature parts of the plant from which they originate. Juvenile cuttings require lower plant rooting hormone rates compared to the ‘older’ cuttings. To maintain juvenality, annual and perennial cuttings should be taken from young stock plants. These stock plants, often a half year old, are used to produce the next generation stock plants from current cuttings. For woody plants ‘hedging’ can be done. THE 'BEST' TIME TO TAKE CUTTINGS Some plants, especially those which go dormant, have different rooting ability at different times of the year. Timing of a few weeks in taking of cuttings may have success or failure. After maturing to a certain age, often years, cuttings taken from certain plants may not be able to produce roots.
TYPICAL TIMING TO TAKE CUTTINGS • Herbaceous cuttings from greenhouse crops, annual and tropical plants: anytime. • Deciduous and evergreen plant cuttings: early summer through early fall. • Dormant hardwood cuttings: fall or winter. PREPARATION AND CARE OF CUTTINGS Before taking cuttings, stock plants must be provided with good light and fertilization. This will boost stored carbohydrates used to feed the newly formed roots. • Herbaceous plant cuttings should be treated and stuck soon after being taken. To prevent heat damage, in hot climates cuttings are put in coolers soon after being cut. Perennial and annual cutting suppliers may have offshore stock plant nurseries. When shipped, cuttings from these nurseries are kept chilled during transit using special cartons that protect the cuttings from temperature variation. The cuttings are packed in plastic bags to assure continued hydration. Shipping time is kept short, assuring prompt arrival at the rooting facility. Certain plants do not ship well; to assure propagation success, those stock plants should be grown near the rooting faculty. • Winter woody cuttings taken in the fall can be treated with rooting hormones, kept in plastic, stored in cold storage, then planted-out in the spring. • Growers usually take plant shoot cuttings from plant growth of the current growing season. Generally, thin cuttings will root more easily than thick cuttings. No one cutting type is useful to propagate all plants. TYPES OF CUTTINGS STEM CUTTINGS ‘Stem cuttings’ are the out-growing stems, mature sprouts or tip cuttings. Growers may take many types of stem cuttings. • SOFTWOOD & HERBACEOUS CUTTINGS: these are the fast growing soft tips of stems, usually taken in the spring. Herbaceous cuttings, sometimes called ‘tip cuttings’ or ‘shoot cuttings’, are taken from the young soft tips of stems. Softwood and Herbaceous cuttings have many variations. Cuttings taken from annuals, herbaceous perennials, tropical plants and house plants are easier to propagate from cuttings than more hardened cuttings. • HARDWOOD CUTTINGS: these are taken from the fully mature stems of deciduous shrubs and trees. Stock plants for these cuttings require careful selection and preparation before growers take the cuttings. Pruning of the stock plants allow them to produce new growth early in the growing season. The new growth can produce roots. Growers take these cuttings at the end of the growing season or during the dormant season. • GREENWOOD CUTTINGS: these are the soft tips or stems after the spring growth has slowed. The stem is harder and woodier than the soft wood cutting. • SEMI-RIPE CUTTINGS: these are taken during the late summer after the annual growth has slowed. The stem is harder than softwood or green wood cuttings. Other Types of Cuttings SCION CUTTINGS ‘Scion cuttings’ are dormant 'ligneous' woody twigs. EYE CUTTINGS ‘Eye cuttings’ are pieces of foliated or defoliated stalks with one or more eyes. ROOT CUTTINGS ‘Root cuttings’ are parts of the root, usually annual. Growers take these from certain plants which have the capacity to regenerate stems from root parts. LEAF CUTTINGS ‘Leaf cuttings’ are parts of the leaf. New roots develop at the base or veins of the cutting. Dry powder rooting hormones are usually used to treat these cuttings. HANDLING UN-ROOTED CUTTIGS • After taking cuttings, stick as soon as possible. • USE PLANT ROOTING HORMONES. • Do inspection. • Reduce wilting during rooting. • Maintain the appropriate environmental controls. • Practice good sanitation. HANDLING OFF-SHORE UN-ROOTED CUTTINGS After receiving cuttings from off-shore sources, open all boxes immediately. Inspect the un-rooted cuttings for damage, dehydration, heat or freeze damage, breakage or rot. Report any missing items or damaged cuttings to the vendor. Do not allow the boxes to remain in sunny or hot places, or below freezing temperatures. Growers should stick the un-rooted cuttings into pre-moistened, well drained, soil-less media with 5.5- 6.5 pH. If it not possible to stick the un-rooted cuttings immediately they can be held for several days in a cooler between 35-45°F. The cuttings will deteriorate rapidly at warm temperatures. WOUNDING • Hardwood cuttings may root better if a 1/2 to 3/4 inch long notch, “wound,” is made at the basal end before applying the plant rooting hormone. • Tropical and other herbaceous cuttings are not 'wounded'. MEDIA Stick cuttings as soon as possible after either taking cuttings or receiving off-shore cuttings. Use pre-moistened, well drained, soil-less media with 5.5- 6.5 pH. ‘Airy’ media allows oxygen to stimulate root growth. (See page 45 for notes.)
STICKING DEPTH Stick the cuttings just deep enough that the medium anchors them. Thin cutting may be stuck 1/4-1/2 inch deep. TRAY SIZE AND DIRECT STICKING Tray sizes range from 36 to 128 cell. Larger cells are used for cuttings scheduled to remain in the starting tray longer. Un-rooted cuttings can also direct stick in the finishing container or sometimes beds. ROOTING SOLUTIONS AND ROOTING POWDERS Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts & Rhizopon AA dry powder rooting hormones are applied to cuttings from ‘easy-to-root’ to ‘difficult-to-root’. Treated cuttings quickly form new uniform roots, strong root mass and homogenous propagation crops. CONTROL OF THE GROWING AREA Raising selected stock plants under controlled conditions is important. When growers give their stock plants proper care, the plants will produce the best cuttings. ‘Just taking’ cuttings from random ‘field plants’ leads to marginal results. The same way, control of the propagation house is equally important to the propagation of new plants. Before production, always perform trials on selected plants, within the same facility. INSPECTION Growers must inspect their crops regularly to observe both intended and undesired results. Records should be kept that include information of the methods, materials, and plants used, and the quality of stock plants and cuttings. ROOTED CUTTING CARE Early stage treatment of the cutting crop is essential to produce high quality finished plants. Do not allow the rooted cuttings to become over-rooted, dried-out, crowded or under-fertilized. These situations may reduce plant growth. PROVIDING THE BEST POSSIBLE CONDITIONS FOR ROOTING Cuttings given less than optimal rooting conditions will waste energy. The result will be inferior root systems. To produce its own store of carbohydrates a plant needs the raw materials of light, water, carbon dioxide and oxygen. LIGHT Growers should regulate the propagation house so that the cuttings are not under direct sunlight. The effect of direct sunlight and the resultant heat will cause stress to the cuttings. Light is necessary for photosynthesis. Un-rooted cuttings are not able to engage in much photosynthesis; a small amount of light, 100-125 um PAR light, during the rooting process is sufficient. It is important at this stage is to provide a long period of light. A photo-period of 16-18 hours is adequate. Artificial lights are useful to extend natural daylight hours. Natural lighting or artificial lights may cause a rise in ambient temperature. Growers must control the growing area to avoid high temperatures from light sources. WATER CONTENT OF THE MEDIA A plant must have a good root system in order for it to absorb water. Water is crucial while the cuttings begin to form roots. If the substrate that is too dry, the plant will have cell death. Dead cells increase the risk of rot. A very dry substrate encourages callus formation. Although many believe that callus is beneficial for root formation, this is not true. The callus hinders and slows root formation. Growers measure how much moisture in the soil with a tensiometer. For best rooting, the meter should display a reading between moist and wet. Another way is to weigh the trays regularly. By trial, the growers determine if the trays have the proper weight for the “the proper moisture level,” then provide water based on these observations. CARBON DIOXIDE (CO2) IN AIR & OXYGEN IN MEDIA Photosynthesis is important for cuttings. Photosynthesis requires sufficient carbon dioxide (CO2), light, and water. An advantage of an increased level of CO2 in the air is that it reduces the transpiration, loss of water, through the plant. Cuttings in an environment with sufficient light and an increased CO2 level (800-1000 ppm) will form better roots. CO2 can be controlled using special generators. Oxygen is necessary for cell division and crucial for root formation. Growers must stick the cuttings into a substrate that has a structure which is sufficiently open to allow air, containing oxygen, to reach the developing roots. Dense media inhibits oxygen stimulation. AIR CIRCULATION & TEMPERATURE CONTROL Good air circulation is necessary when rooting un-rooted cuttings. Shade to approximately 50% light conditions, or as required, to reduce temperature during high heat periods. TEMPERATURE • Soil Temperature Soil temperature has a direct influence on the speed of rooting. A soil temperature ranging between 68-77°F is ideal during the initial rooting stage. After this initial stage, growers can allow the temperature to drop a few degrees. • Air Temperature To prevent excess transpiration, controlling the temperature is important. To reduce aerial growth, air temperature should be a bit lower than soil temperature. The cuttings should be encouraged to use their energy mainly for developing roots. Above ground growth will come later. • Light and Temperature Relationship During the winter, when there is a low level of natural light, with no artificial lights, use a lower temperature. For example, cuttings will die if kept at temperatures near 74°F, short day and low light levels. Rooting activity in the soil will outpace its ability to do photosynthesis induced by the light. FERTILIZATION Follow fertilizer label instructions. Growers should fertilize un-rooted cuttings during propagation. Apply a complete N-P-K fertilizer. For many plants, use a fertilizer containing 300 ppm of nitrogen approximately two to three times a week. Start on the third day after sticking or when the callus is starting to form. Quality can suffer if the roots become rootbound. Fertilize the cuttings when planting. Apply liquid fertilizer solutions at a rate of 300 to 400 ppm immediately after planting. INSECT AND DISEASE CONTROL Good cultural practices and clean, well-ventilated growing space are your best defense against disease. Botrytis, the chief fungal threat, thrives in a moist, stagnant environment. Good air circulation and adequate light will reduce its harmful effects. Apply appropriate fungicides, insecticides, and other control products following label instructions. HUMIDITY Un-rooted cuttings must receive the highest amount of humidity. Temperature influences the ambient humidity. When the first roots appear, the humidity can be lowered; the rooted cuttings can adapt to the surroundings better. MISTING GUIDELINES Apply mist immediately and frequently to maintain turgidity and minimize wilting while roots develop. Extended days of high humidity may cause some plant cuttings to form aerial roots.
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Miss Chen
2021年06月13日
Miss Chen
What are the origins of plant rooting hormones Since Medieval times plant growers have known that many plants can be propagated from cuttings. The new plants have the same characteristics as the parent plant. Some cuttings root easily, some with difficulty and some never on their own. In the 1930's horticultural researchers isolated the plant growth regulators which promote rooting of cuttings and improve the root mass of rooted plants. These regulators even produce rooting of some cuttings which do not self root. In 1939, using these revolutionary regulators, Dutch scientists developed rooting products and techniques now used worldwide. The manufacturer, Rhizopon b.v., is the world's largest company solely devoted to plant rooting products and technology.
Select cuttings to improve rooting success Why do cuttings from the same parent plant root while others do not? What is the 'best' time to take cuttings? Rooting of cuttings is affected by many variables. Some plants have different rooting ability at different times of the year. A few weeks difference in taking of cuttings may produce success or failure. Woody plants are especially influenced by timing. When taking shoot cuttings from the same plant at the same time some cuttings may have different rooting ability. One reason may be the position of the shoots on the plant. Current year shoots may root differently from second year shoots. Shoots from the lower part of the plant may have had less sunlight then upper shoots; the upper shoots may be a few weeks older than the lower shoots. In general, younger shoots need less stimulation to root than older shoots and require a more stable propagation environment. Use a lower Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts concentration. It is important to keep notes. Include data such as the number of days after the flowering of forsythia to account for seasonal variation, the origin of the cuttings, the time and weather when the cuttings were taken and sticking, the date taken, the rooting method used and concentration of Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts, the conditions at the time cuttings take root, and the relative quality of the roots. Difficult cuttings CAN be rooted How can I increase the rooting yield of difficult to root hardwood cuttings? How do I control the concentration of Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts to increase yield? Some cuttings root with difficulty. Lacking success, some growers erroneously increase the concentration of Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts. An increased concentration may inhibit root promotion. Try a LOW concentration of Rhizopon AA or Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salt with an INCREASED basal end immersion time. Increased immersion time allows the cutting to absorb the active ingredients. A low concentration is also economical. Use the IMMERSE METHOD by immersing the basal end of cuttings approximately 1" into solution for 4-12 hours. Root cuttings by Quick Dip How do I use the QUICK DIP METHOD to root herbaceous or woody cuttings? The QUICK DIP METHOD is a fast treatment method to root cuttings. Quickly immerse the basal end of the cutting approximately 1" into solution. Plant immediately. Use rates as suggested on the plant list. Use fertilizers and fungicides with care Can I use fertilizers or fungicides with Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts? Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts do not contain fertilizers or fungicides. Apply these materials based upon plant requirements. When rooting cuttings do not fertilize until after root initiation. Fertilizer salts may dehydrate the cutting. When transplanting you can apply or Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts with fertilizer at the same time. Fungicides may inhibit root formation by stressing plant tissue and slowing rooting and plant growth. Use fungicides only as required. Two easy ways to produce symmetric roots I use the SPRAY DRIP DOWN® METHOD to root herbaceous cuttings such as chrysanthemum. How do I know how much solution to spray? What is the difference in performance between the SPRAY DRIP DOWN® METHOD and TOTAL IMMERSE METHOD? Using either the SPRAY DRIP DOWN® or TOTAL IMMERSE METHOD, Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts develop symmetric roots on herbaceous plant cuttings. The active ingredients are absorbed into the leaves and stems then transported to the basal end where it induces roots. When using the SPRAY DRIP DOWN® METHOD first plant the cuttings. Spray the leaves with solution until the liquid drips down into the media near the basal end. Use Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts at rates suggested on the plant list. For broad leaf cuttings it might be easier to use the TOTAL IMMERSE METHOD. The cutting is immersed a few seconds in the solution. Plant immediately. Transplants have improved success. Roses have higher flower yield How do I improve transplanting of bare root plants, plugs, and plants in media? How many times should I treat plants with Rhizopon or Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts? How do I increase flower yield when transplanting young rose bushes? How can I improve transplant success of Christmas trees? I want to improve our reforestation program which requires that conservation plants recover quickly. Treatment with Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts help the rooted plants regenerate roots rapidly so to rapidly absorb water and nutrients. The plants develop a strong early root mass before sprout initiation. Select the method of application based upon practical needs. Treat once at planting time.
For plants in plug or root ball, spray or dip with solution until the media is saturated. For herbaceous plants use Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts (at 50-100 ppm IBA); for woody plants use about twice this rate. After treating the roots optionally spray the leaves and stems lightly with a solution using Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts (at 50-100 ppm IBA); Using IMMERSION ABSORPTION, trees, shrubs, and other plants planted in the field, nursery bed, or greenhouse have less transplant shock and stress. Treated young rose bush transplants have earlier and increased flower yield. Product Selection to make Fresh Rooting Solutions HORTUS IBA WATER SOLUBLE SALTS Use the easy to measure powder with water to make your own freshest solutions in any concentration. You can make solutions to over 100,000 ppm IBA active ingredients. The Salts are an economical for making large solution volumes. Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts is an easier to use and registered replacement technical IBA and K-IBA. These plant rooting products are completely free of potentially phyto-toxic and flammable alcohol. You make solutions from very dilute to extremely concentrated. The solutions are odorless. Both are US EPA registered with WPS Zero Hour REI. Growers can apply the products and remain in the growing area. There is minimum PPE with no notification requirement.
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Miss Chen
2021年06月11日
Miss Chen
Basics of taking plant cuttings Plant shoot cuttings are usually taken from plant growth of the current growing season. Cuttings may be taken from various stages of plant growth. The range of cuttings is from succulent to hardwood. It is not possible to state one type of cutting which is useful for all plants. Adjust the timing to take cuttings based upon the locale. Cutting for most plants propagated in the greenhouse can usually be taken at any time. Cuttings from deciduous plants are usually taken in early summer. Cutting should not usually be taken from the end of a branch nor the top part, rather, in between. Testing and experience will allow you to select at what stage of maturity each type of plant will root best. Select the 'best' time to take cuttings from the stock plant Seasonal Variation Some cutting from the same stock plant may root while others may not. There may be a 'best time' to take cuttings from the plant. Rooting of cuttings is affected by many variables. Some plants have different rooting ability at different times of the year. A few weeks difference in taking of cuttings may produce success or failure. Woody plants are especially influenced by timing. After a certain age, often years, some plants may even have difficulty producing cutting viable to produce roots. Juvenile cuttings
Some plants produce better rooting when cuttings are taken from juvenile parts of the plant. When taking shoot cuttings from the same stock plant at the same time some cuttings may have different rooting ability. While a cutting may be young in growth age they may be old relative to the stem from which the cutting is taken. Physically young cuttings taken from the top of a two year old tree branch may exhibit root initiation performance as if they were two year old cuttings. Cuttings taken from near the base of the plant may exhibit rooting characteristics similar to the real age of the cuttings; months old rather than years old. One reason may be the position of the shoots on the plant. Current years shoots may root different from second year shoots. Shoots from the lower part of the plant may have less sunlight than the upper shoots. The upper shoots may be a few weeks older than the lower shoots. Younger shoots need less stimulation, to root than older shoots; use a lower Rhizopon AA or Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts concentration. The younger shoots require a more stable propagation environment. Sometimes it is beneficial to induce juvenility by maintaining relatively young mother plants or to hedge the young mother plants. Pruning of the mother plants should be limited since the mother plant must constantly produce energy to produce new shoots. Change the mother plants frequently to induce better quality cuttings. An excellent short description of juvenile plants, taken from 'Donor Plant Maturation and Adventitious Root Formation' by Wesley Hackett in Adventitious Root Formation in Cuttings, is reprinted in the DISCUSSION FORUM Keep good notes When taking cuttings it is important to keep notes. Include data such as the number of days after a key repeatable event, such as the flowering of forsythia to account for seasonal variation. Also note the origin of the cutting, the time and weather when the cuttings were taken and time of sticking, the date, etc. Care of cuttings before Rhizopon AA or Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts treatment Plant cuttings to be rooted should be propagated soon after being taken from the stock plant. Cuttings of some plants may be kept fresh by keeping the basal end wrapped in moist fabric until ready to treat and plant. Do not keep unused cutting for an extended period. Stored in plastic, some cuttings, such as prunus root stocks, can be kept fresh by storing in a cool place. Keep the cuttings for a day or so in cold storage (about 40F) with a high relative humidity (95%) to give the cuttings a good turgor. Tropical plants are often stored at room temperature.
Wounding: notching the cuttings before treatment Some plant cuttings, such as hardwood cuttings, root more easily if a small notch or wound is made at the basal end before treating with Rhizopon AA and Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts. The cuts often 1/2-3/4 inch long made with a 'v' cut. Tropical and other herbaceous plants are usually not 'wounded'. Treatment Treat the cuttings with the Rhizopon and Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts rooting products according to the need of the plant and the desired method. Selection of media for rooting of cuttings Different kinds of media are used for rooting cuttings of different species of plants. The grower should select the media appropriate for the plant. Some media variations commonly used are all peat moss, combinations of peat with sand, all sand, rockwool, and pearlite or vermiculite with soil mixes. When you use media, such as rockwool, which have no retention properties you must lower the Rhizopon AA or Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts concentration.
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