绿手指
首页
动态
文章
百科
花园
设置
简体中文
已关注
+
关注
花园 (4)
动态 (4985)
Miss Chen
2021年08月29日
Miss Chen
It's a cruel trick of Mother Nature that that most glorious weather of the gardening season coincides with the decline of most blooming plants. Asters, however, don't play along with the prank. Like garden mums, asters flower in response to the shortening days of fall, giving gardeners a beautiful display of buds that can bloom from August through October. Native to North America, asters comprise many species in several different genera of plants, as well as dozens of cultivars, but for gardeners, asters are simply great flowers that provide purple or blue daisy-like flowers late in the season. Although home and garden centers often market asters as a seasonal purchase among displays of pumpkins and hay bales, asters are long-lived perennials that can become a permanent part of your landscape. Though aster flowers have that wildflower look, they are also beautiful in cut-flower arrangements. People aren't the only ones who find asters attractive—pollinators such as bees and butterflies also love aster flowers. If planted in the fall, they can be a rare source of late-season nectar, making them a crucial flower for pollinators. Asters can be planted almost any time of the year, though spring is typical since that's when potted nursery plants are readily available. These fast-growing perennials will be ready to put on a good fall display in their first year, and once established, they will hold their own for many years. Botanical Name Symphyotrichum Common Names Asters, New England asters, frost flowers Plant type Herbaceous perennial Mature Size 1–6 ft. tall, 1–4 ft. wide (varies by type) Sun Exposure Full sun Soil Type Loamy, well-drained Soil pH Neutral to acidic Bloom time Summer, fall Flower Color Purple, pink, blue, white Hardiness Zones 3–8 (USDA) Native Area North America Aster Care While you can grow aster flowers from seeds planted in the springtime, it may take several years for them to mature into full-sized plants. More often, asters are planted from potted nursery specimens. They do best in loamy, well-draining soil, and desire a good amount of space around the plants to allow space for their roots to expand. Every three years or so, the root clumps should be dug up and divided to keep the plants from getting too woody and dying out in the centers. The woody center can be discarded, with the outer portions replanted. When frost finally kills off the foliage, clip off the stems at ground level. This can also be done in the spring to allow birds to feed on the flower seeds throughout winter—both finches and chickadees are especially fond of aster seeds. Light Plant our aster flowers in an area that boasts full sun for the majority of the day. Too much shade can cause lanky plants and fewer flowers, especially for the more common cultivars and hybrids. There are some native species varieties, however, that will do quite well in partially shady conditions. Soil Asters appreciate loamy soil that's slightly acidic, with a pH ranging from 5.8 to 6.5. If your soil is alkaline, you can correct it by adding organic matter such as well-rotted manure, leaf mold, or compost. Water Keep new plantings moist and continue watering regularly until the flowers are finished blooming. As a rule of thumb, the soil your asters reside in should stay consistently moist but never saturated. One thing to note: Try to water the base of your asters without splashing water on the leaves—doing so can cause mildew or fungal growth. One inch of rain or watering once a week is usually recommended for most perennial plants. Temperature and Humidity Aster flowers thrive in cooler temperatures and are frost hardy, able to withstand near-freezing temperatures temporarily. When it comes to humidity, asters have no special preferences and therefore will not need increased humidity levels or extra spritzing. Fertilizer Asters are moderate feeders, and they appreciate being fed with a balanced flower fertilizer twice a month, beginning in spring and continuing until the blooms begin to open. Excessive nutrients can shorten the blooming time, so stop fertilizing asters in August. Aster Varieties The taxonomy of asters is somewhat complicated, as it now includes several genera of plants, all within the Asteraceae family. At one time, all the species were considered part of the Aster genus, but several species have now been reassigned to the Symphyotrichum genus. The flowers known as New England asters, for example, now belong to Symphyotrichum and are known as S. novae-angliae. And New York asters are now formally known as Symphyotrichum novi-belgii. Finally, a number of species still belong to the original Aster genus, including hybrid crosses and their named cultivars. A. amellus and A. thomsonii are two frequent parents used in the hybrid cultivars commonly sold in the nursery trade. Most gardeners do not need to worry too much about the taxonomical details, as all these plants are sold as asters and all have the familiar daisy-like flowers and perform the same way in the garden. The original species were wildflowers found in North America and Eurasia, but modern garden varieties are usually hybrids bred to produce new colors and tidier plants. Some of the more popular cultivars include: 'Celeste': These dark blue flowers bloom early and feature bright yellow centers. 'Hazy': Another early bloomer, the "hazy" aster boasts raspberry-pink flowers with yellow centers. 'Puff': The puff aster is hardier than many other white cultivars and will bloom among the earliest. Propagating Asters Asters can be propagated by collecting seeds or rooting stem cuttings, but by far the easiest way is by simply digging up the root clump and dividing it into pieces for replanting (the woody center portion of the clump should be discarded). The clumps will survive no matter when you perform the division, but if done in late fall or early the following spring, the plants will become established enough to put on a fall display in their first year. Aster roots are tough, so you will need to use a sharp spade to cut the clumps into pieces. Water thoroughly immediately after replanting, and feed the divisions with bone meal to provide phosphorus for immediate root growth. Common Pests/ Diseases Rust and powdery mildew disease can affect aster foliage. Follow proper plant spacing recommendations to improve air circulation, and avoid splashing watering to prevent these problems. Most insect pests leave asters alone, but lace bugs can be a bother. You're more likely to notice the damage they cause than the insects themselves, which are very small and a nondescript grayish-brown color. If you spot yellowing foliage and leaf drop in the summer, consider using insect soap on the plants, coating all sides of the foliage to impact the hiding pests. Fortunately, lace bug outbreaks precede aster blooming time, so spraying won't affect butterflies and bees.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年08月27日
Miss Chen
The asparagus fern isn’t exactly a common houseplant, but with its feathery, light foliage, it's quite attractive and can be successfully grown indoors. In warmer regions, the fern can be easily adapted to outdoor culture, where it sometimes grows like a creeper and can even become invasive. Indoors, the key to a robust asparagus fern is to keep the plant bushy and dense so its lace-like foliage forms an attractive mound. Asparagus fern is a fern in name and appearance only. It actually belongs to the family Liliaceae and is a relative of lilies, including tulips, daylilies, amaryillis, and hostas. Asparagus fern has a lot of good qualities, but it comes with some important cautions. In warm, humid climates, asparagus ferns can spread rapidly when planted outdoors. It is considered an invasive species in Florida, Texas, and Hawaii. Asparagus fern is also toxic to children and pets1. Botanical Name Asparagus aethiopicus Common Name Asparagus fern Plant Type Annual, houseplant Mature Size Up to 2 feet high and 6 feet long Sun Exposure Indirect light (indoors); part sun (outdoors) Soil Type Well-drained potting soil Soil pH 6.5 to 6.8 Bloom Time Summer Flower Color White; flowers are insignificant Hardiness Zones 9 to 11 Native Area South Africa Toxicity Toxic for dogs and cats Asparagus Fern Care If you live in planting zones 9 or above, you can grow asparagus fern outdoors as a perennial. In all other zones, it can be planted as an annual or kept indoors as a houseplant. It's also popular as an outdoor container plant, where it is often used as a spiller. You can bring the container inside when the weather turns cold. Asparagus fern's “leaves” are actually tiny branchlets called cladophylls that are flat and look like leaves. Mature plants become woody and can develop sharp spines on the branches, so take caution while trimming older specimens, and wear gardening gloves if you plan to prune an older plant. When asparagus fern is content in its location, it can produce small flowers and berries. You can plant these berries to propagate the fern. Asparagus fern is fairly trouble-free, but indoors it may suffer from the same maladies common to most houseplants, especially mites and aphids.2 Insecticidal soap is usually effective. Light The asparagus fern thrives in dappled shade, although it can be acclimated to more light. Keep it out of direct, bright sunlight. Soil Plant asparagus ferns in pots or containers in loose, well-drained potting soil. Outdoors, plant it in rich, well-drained soil that is slightly acidic. It is generally tolerant of less-than-ideal soil conditions. Water Keeping an asparagus fern hydrated takes a little effort, and this plant thrives on humidity. Indoor growing conditions can often be dry, especially due to winter heat. Mist the plant daily, focusing on the arching stems. If the plant appears to be turning brown and droopy, it likely needs more water. While the asparagus fern can dry out to the point of appearing dead, it likely isn't. Warmer, humid air and daily misting will help revive it. Outdoors, keep asparagus fern well watered to prevent the soil from completely drying out. Temperature and Humidity Try to maintain a warm temperature (around 70 degrees Fahrenheit) and not dip below 55 degrees Fahrenheit for too long. If you have a shady porch outside, or a greenhouse, the indoor plants will likely respond with abundant growth over the summer. Fertilizer Feed asparagus fern with liquid or water-soluble all-purpose plant food diluted to half strength. During summer, the plant may need weekly feedings; otherwise, feed monthly. Asparagus Fern Varieties Asparagus setaceus: Lacy foliage often used in flower arrangements; can grow to 10 feet in height if trained Asparagus densiflorus 'Myeri': Also called foxtail asparagus; dense foliage on upright stems Asparagus densiflorus 'Sprengeri': Popular as a hanging plant, with long dropping stems and a full, almost fluffy form Pruning Asparagus ferns are fast growers, and you may want to trim yours to keep it tidy. Conversely, it's okay if you want it to look wild and shaggy. Use clean garden shears or sharp scissors to give your plant shape. Propagating Asparagus Fern While this plant can be propagated by planting the seeds found in the berries, the easier and faster way is to dig up and divide the tuberous roots. In spring, dig up the entire plant and divide it into sections, each with a portion of root and growing shoots. Replant the pieces into individual pots or their own garden locations. It is best to keep the plant shaded until new growth begins. How to Grow Asparagus Fern From Seed Asparagus fern seeds come from their berries. Before planting, soak seeds overnight. Then, create starters by planting them 1/4" deep in pots or trays, indoors. Soil temperature should be at 70–80 degrees, Fahrenheit. Germination should take 4–8 weeks. Potting and Repotting Asparagus Fern Plant asparagus ferns in pots or containers in loose, well-drained potting soil. Outdoors, plant it in rich, well-drained soil that is slightly acidic. It is generally tolerant of less-than-ideal soil conditions. Asparagus ferns don't mind being slightly pot-bound, and can go up to two years before repotting. For the most successful repotting, divide the plant into big clumps, and be sure to take multiple underground roots when dividing. Place the divided plants into similar-sized pots to retain the tight growth habit. Asparagus ferns do not need large pots, as they are slow indoor spreaders. Overwintering If your outdoor temps dip below 55 degrees Fahrenheit, bring your asparagus ferns inside (if they're not already there). Keep them in bright light, away from drafts and radiators. Do not overwater, this can cause root problems. Common Pests or Diseases Spider mites, aphids, and mealybugs like to hang out in this plant's leaves, get rid of them with insecticidal soap. Overly wet conditions can cause root-rot.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年08月25日
Miss Chen
Asparagus is one of the first vegetables that is ready to harvest in the spring and also one of the few perennial vegetables grown in the garden. Since it will be in the same spot for years, it's important to find a spot where it will have all the growing conditions it needs. Asparagus plants are slow to mature, taking three to five years to really fill in and mature, but it's worth the wait. Once they start hitting their stride, you will be harvesting asparagus spears for more than a month every spring. The asparagus spears are straight young shoots of the plant, with scale-like tips. Later in the season, the foliage matures into an airy, light-green, fern-like cloud, which changes to a golden color in the fall. This perennial is typically planted from roots, or crowns, in early spring. Botanical Name Asparagus officinalis Common Name Asparagus Plant Type Perennial vegetable Mature Size 5 feet tall, 3 feet wide Sun Exposure Full sun Soil Type Sandy, loamy Soil pH Acidic to neutral (6.0 to 7.0) Bloom Time Spring, summer, fall, winter Flower Color Pale yellow, greenish Hardiness Zones 4 to 9 Native Area Europe, Africa
How to Plant Asparagus Since you won't be harvesting for three years, asparagus requires some patience and preparation. Because asparagus is a perennial, you'll need to pick an out-of-the-way spot in the vegetable garden without competing plants. Asparagus also needs space, about 4 to 5 feet for each plant. They won’t spread out much the first couple of years, but once established they will quickly fill in. Heirloom varieties need extra space, as there are both males and female plants, meaning they will produce seeds and will self-sow. Newer hybrid varieties are bred to produce only male plants that don't produce seeds, so they need a little less space, as they'll spread only through the growth of the existing crown. Plants can be started from seed about four weeks before the last expected frost. However, seeds will add several years to your wait. Most people find it easier to grow asparagus from crowns, which are widely available in the spring. They look like a worn out string mop, but they are very much alive. Unlike many plants, the roots of asparagus crowns can withstand some air exposure, and you will usually find them for sale loose. They should look firm and fresh, not withered or mushy. The most common way to plant asparagus crowns is in a trench. In the spring, dig a trench about 12 inches deep and 12 inches wide. Combine your compost, fertilizer, or other organic matter, and create mounds with it about 18 inches apart. Set the crown on top of the mound, spreading the roots down the sides. The top of the crown should be about 6 inches below the soil line. Cover the crown with soil, and water well. As shoots appear, add more soil to fill the trench until it's ultimately filled and flush with the soil line. Remove weeds when preparing the bed, and keep weeding while the asparagus plants are young. Asparagus roots form a tightly woven mat, from which it is challenging to remove weeds. Add mulch to the asparagus bed to control weeds. Do not add any other plants to the asparagus bed—they dislike any competition for nutrients. Asparagus Care Light Asparagus plants grow best in full sun. Without enough daily sunlight, you will wind up with thin spears and weak plants that are prone to problems. Soil For a long-lived perennial like asparagus, it pays to take the time to improve your soil before you plant it. Work in plenty of organic matter and make sure the soil pH is in the neutral 6.5 to 7.0 range. Also get rid of any weeds and large stones in the area before planting. The soil must drain well so the plants are never sitting in water. Water Asparagus needs regular watering, especially while young; give it 1 to 2 inches of water per week during its first two growing seasons; give older plants about 1 inch per week. If you give them a good start when you first plant them, and you'll have fewer problems in future years. Consider adding drip irrigation or a soaker hose to the asparagus bed. Temperature and Humidity During the growing season, asparagus prefers a temperature of 70 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit during the day and 60 to 70 degrees at night. In the spring, it will begin to grow shoots when the soil temperature reaches 50 degrees. Any frost after the shoots start growing will cause discoloration. You may see slow growth with temperatures above 85 or below 55 degrees. Fertilizer When preparing your asparagus bed, add compost and an all-purpose organic fertilizer to the trench, as well as rock phosphate, a natural mineral powder that promotes root growth. These nutrients will help your asparagus develop a good, strong root system. To keep the soil rich and help feed the asparagus plants, top dress the soil annually with compost. You can do this in early spring before the shoots appear, or in the fall after the fronds have died back and been cut to the ground. Asparagus is a heavy feeder, and you should also give it a dose of fertilizer in mid-spring when it is actively growing. Varieties of Asparagus The newer cultivars are bred to be all male, which means they will put all their energy into growing the plant, not setting seed. Some popular choices include: 'Mary Washington': The most commonly found variety; bred for rust-resistance 'Jersey Giant': Yields early and is resistant to rust and fusarium wilt 'Brock Imperial': Prized for its high yield 'Princeville': Does well in warmer climates 'Purple Passion': A sweet purple variety Green vs. White Asparagus White asparagus is the same plant as green asparagus, but it is made white through a process called blanching, which deprives the plant of light so it does not photosynthesize. This is accomplished by covering the growing spears with either soil or plastic tunnels. The final product is smooth, white and virtually fiber-free, provided the harvested spears are immediately chilled to prevent the fiber from forming. Harvesting You should not begin harvesting your asparagus spears until the third year after they are planted. They need that time to become established and build up their root systems. This is especially true the first year of planting, when the shoots aren't large. For healthy, well-established asparagus plants, patience is key. You can harvest a few spears in the third year of growth. The plants are not fully mature, so harvest for two weeks, then let the new spears grow undisturbed after that initial harvest. Fronds will unfurl from the spears, creating the pretty, airy foliage that feeds the plant. In the fourth year, begin harvesting spears that are 5 to 7 inches long before the tip becomes loose (diameter doesn't matter). You can either snap off the spears or cut them with a knife, just above the soil line. If you use a knife, be careful you don't also slice the later shoots that are still underground and haven't yet poked through. Your harvest time can extend to three weeks.
Harvest for about four to six weeks in the fifth year. In subsequent years, the shoots will continue emerging from the soil throughout the spring. After you've been harvesting for more than a month and the weather starts to warm, the shoots will begin to get spindly. At this point, allow the plants to grow into their mature ferny foliage, which will feed the roots for next year's crop. Asparagus plants can continue producing for 20 to 30 years and can be divided or transplanted if they become overcrowded or could benefit from a move. Overwintering Asparagus plants need to be cut to the ground each year before new growth starts. You can do this in late winter or fall. Removing the dead foliage in the fall offers the advantage of preventing problems, like asparagus beetles, from over-wintering in them. However, some gardeners like to leave the foliage for winter interest. Common Pests Asparagus does not have too many problems in the garden. Fusarium wilt can be a problem with older varieties, but you can avoid it by planting resistant hybrid varieties.1 The biggest pest is the asparagus beetle.2 Keep watch for them as the spears emerge in spring. They're most active in the afternoon. Hand pick the beetles and drop them in a bucket of soapy water when there are only a few. Otherwise, diluted Neem oil should keep them under control.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年08月23日
Miss Chen
If you have not seen an Ashe's magnolia in a garden or its native setting you are not alone. The diminutive magnolia with the larger than life leaves and flowers is a rarity. Magnolia ashei is a species of magnolia that baffles botanists to this day. The tree is so perplexing that scientists continuously research why it has not spread past its restrained native range of only six northwest Florida Panhandle counties. The good news is that this stunner is finally catching on and people are learning how to responsibly propagate the Ashe's magnolia for use in the nursery trade. It has gained so much popularity that it was named 2017 plant of the year by the Garden Club of America. When looking for a tree to purchase or research, you might be directed to the bigleaf magnolia (Magnolia macrophylla). Depending on what botanist is classifying the plant, this is left open for interpretation. Some call Magnolia ashei a subspecies of Magnolia macrophylla. The difference is evident when you see the two next to each other. The tall, M. macrophylla, towers over its stout cousin. The bigleaf magnolia averages 30-40 feet. An Ashe magnolia grows 15-25 feet. As you can imagine, that is not a mistake you want to make. The Ashe's magnolia has interesting traits that make it desirable to seek out for a garden project, even if it does take a little searching. It is shrubby in form and only grows to about 25 feet but obtains the same width. The tree flowers in a relatively short time after establishing itself, sometimes as little as two years, and is even known to produce flowers in one-gallon containers. It will flower much more if its lateral roots are given room to grow. The tree is also light adaptable in that it possesses unique leaves that allow their size to expand or contract if it is in a lower or higher light area. The leaves grow to a wow-inducing 24 inches long by 10 inches across. Then the tree starts to produce the sweet-smelling blooms that are creamy-white with purple centers. The blooms can reach up to 15 inches across with 9 lazily drooping tepals (petals on a magnolia tree). In nature, you will typically find an Ashe's magnolia in ravine slopes and mixed hardwood forests of those six Florida counties. Here they number in the thousands not hundreds of thousands or millions. Sadly, the Ashe's magnolia has been declared endangered. Researchers are worried that the tree is not replenishing its own population and that has them concerned for the Ashe's magnolia’s future in the wild. Adding this tree to your landscape would not just be a great idea aesthetically, it would add horticulture interest and be ecologically friendly too!
Botanical Name Magnolia ashei Common Name Ashe's Magnolia, Ashe Magnolia Plant Type Tree Mature Size 25 ft. tall Sun Exposure Full Sun, Partial Shade Soil Type Fertile, Well-drained Soil pH Acid, Neutral, Alkaline Bloom Time Spring, Summer Flower Color White Hardiness Zones 6-9, USA Native Range Florida Ashe's Magnolia Care For a rare plant, the Ashe's magnolia is incredibly unpretentious. It has been known to grow quite happily in gardens that experience New England winters, while still thriving as it does in its native range. It can be grown with the help of fertilizer in a container on a patio or in the sweltering Midwest summers. Truly the only area where it will not grow in is the harsh deserts of the Southwest United States. The key to success is giving the Ashe's Magnolia room for roots to grow laterally, a good amount of light, good soil and you will have success. The Ashe magnolia is pretty easy-going and does not give you many excuses to think twice about including it in your landscape design. The tree grows as wide as it does high and its roots grow out laterally quite far. So, when planting, it might be a good idea to give it a spot by itself with nothing around it. It deserves a place of pride. The more light it gets, the bigger and the more blooms it puts off. The Ashe's magnolia will be a small plant when you get it from the nursery, most likely in a one to three-gallon container. The first thing you need to do is dig a hole as deep as the container then expand the diameter to three times the width of the container. Fill the hole with water and add a root stimulator. Place your tree in the hole keeping it straight and upright, replace the soil and tamp it down. Lightly mulch the tree without touching the trunk to a depth of three inches. Water the tree weekly for the first year until established. Light Light is not a major concern to the health of the Ashe's magnolia and will only effect blooms and form. Without full sun, the form of the tree will be spindly and have intermittent blooms. The limbs are heliotropic, the plant moves towards the sun, and its form will be affected greatly by that. Otherwise, there will be no negative health effects. In nature, this is an understory tree and it normally gets dappled sunlight. When it gets an abundance of light it really excels. Soil The Ashe magnolia thrives in deep sandy soil types that are well-drained and rich in humus. In its native Florida, there is an abundance of clay and limestone in the soil, so it will really take to soils that mimic those conditions. You do not need to worry about pH unless you are growing your plant in a container. Water Like most other magnolias, once you have helped it get established with a weekly soaking, you can let nature do what it does best. The only time you might need to be concerned is if you are growing your Ashe's magnolia in a container. Then weekly watering is in order if there are dry or drought conditions. Temperature and Humidity The Ashe's magnolia is adaptable to a range of climates but does not do well in hot and dry conditions. Fertilizer The Ashe's Magnolia will not need to be fertilized unless you grow it in a container. If you have used a container, then use a slow-release fertilizer. Look for a fertilizer that consists of 15-30-8. Growing Ashe's Magnolia in a Container Putting your Ashe magnolia in a container on a patio is a great idea if you are lacking room or just prefer having it on your deck or as an accent. What you need to remember is that this plant will need a lot of root space to grow.
If your tree comes in one-gallon container, then buy the largest possible planter you can and plant your magnolia in the pot close to the surface and let the roots do their work. The soil you plant in should be a good organic mix of humus, vermiculite, perlite, peat, and compost. Check the pH to make sure it is on the acidic side. You can make the environment perfect for your tree since you are building its home.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年08月20日
Miss Chen
Calla lilies are gracefully-shaped flowers that are sought after for both special occasion bouquets and beautiful home gardens. The blooms are truly timeless, and calla lilies have a storied history, including mentions in Greek and Roman mythology, where they were tied to both Hera, the goddess of marriage and birth, and Venus, the goddess of love and beauty. Native to Africa, calla lilies also grow in other tropical climates, but can sometimes be considered invasive, specifically in Western Australia and some areas of the southern United States. The blooms come in a range of colors, from white and pale pink to deep burgundy, with some recent hybrids in dramatic colors like bright orange and black. They are a long-lasting cut flower and are popular in floral arrangements for this reason, especially when it comes to weddings.
When growing calla lilies for yourself, be sure to plant them in the springtime. They will grow moderately fast, often producing flowers by early-to-mid-summer and blooming throughout the season until early fall. Botanical Name Zantedeschia aethiopica Common Name Calla lily, arum lily Plant Type Rhizome Mature Size 2–3 ft. tall, 1–2 ft. wide Sun Exposure Full sun, partial shade Soil Type Moist but well-drained Soil pH Acidic Bloom Time Summer Flower Color White, pink, coral, maroon, orange, yellow Hardiness Zones 8 to 10 Native Areas Southern Africa, South Africa, Swaziland Toxicity Toxic to dogs and cats Calla Lily Care Calla lilies are easy to grow outside, as long as you live in USDA hardiness zones 8 through 10. They grow from a rhizome, not from a bulb, which is a key indicator that they're not actually true lilies. Calla lilies will die back in summer and regrow each year, but in colder zones, you can plant calla lilies as an annual. By doing so, you'll have to either dig up and overwinter the rhizomes or buy new rhizomes each growing season. Light True to their tropical nature, calla lilies thrive in a warm environment, which includes plenty of light. If you live in an area that boasts hot and humid summer weather, your calla lilies will probably do better in a spot that experiences partial shade, while calla lilies grown in a slightly more temperate summer climate can handle full sunlight. Soil A rich, moist, well-drained soil is best to keep calla lilies blooming. Calla lilies often do well growing alongside ponds and can happily tolerate a moist soil location, though you should avoid allowing them to become waterlogged, which can lead to root rot. To increase the nutritional density of your soil, you can amend it with organic matter before planting your flowers. Water Don't water your calla lilies too heavily, especially after initially planting them. Once the rhizomes are established, you can water the plants once a week, or more frequently if experiencing especially hot or drought-like conditions. Calla lily plants potted indoors will need constant moisture, as pots will dry out sooner than ground plantings. Temperature and Humidity Calla lilies like a fairly warm environment and temperatures that range between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit are ideal for them. They also enjoy a decent amount of humidity and moisture, so humid summers keep the flowers blooming just fine. If temperatures go much below 50 degrees Fahrenheit, the plants will tend to go dormant. If you want to dig up your rhizomes for overwintering, do so before temperatures go below freezing in your area in the fall. Fertilizer Calla lilies need feeding upon planting, and again every spring at the beginning of their growing season, in order to promote bountiful flowering. Most well-balanced fertilizers will work just fine, but avoid choosing a blend with too much nitrogen, which can reduce the plant's flowering. Potting and Repotting Calla Lily One indication that your calla lilies are ready for a bigger pot is if the roots look slightly crowded. Root-bound plants are not likely to thrive, so you should replant your blooms if you notice an issue with their roots. Repotting calla lilies is actually pretty easy—to do so, carefully lift the flowers out of their smaller pot and gently place them into the larger one taking care not to damage the delicate roots. Fill the new pot with soil up to about an inch from the pot's rim. Calla lilies need to be kept moist for a few days after repotting, so make sure to keep an eye on the soil's moisture levels.
Propagating Calla Lily Calla lilies can be propagated from rhizomes by dividing plants that have been growing outdoors. Over time, calla lilies grown outdoors will form large clumps that can be easily divided into smaller units and planted that way. After several years these divisions tend to lose vigor, so most people who want to grow them outdoors will invest in new divisions (available from catalogs) or nursery plants. Common Pests/Diseases There are several issues you may have to contend with when growing calla lilies, most notably bacterial soft rot, which affects the rhizomes,1 and botrytis, which is a fungal disease that causes a filmy grey mold to grow over the plant's petals, stems, and leaves.2 To reduce the risk of fungal diseases, be mindful of watering frequency, and be sure to plant your calla lilies far enough apart so that they have ample air circulation. Various pests can also be an issue for calla lilies, including insects like aphids, slugs, and spider mites.3 To combat these issues, treat the plants with a mild insecticidal soap or horticultural oil like neem oil.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年08月18日
Miss Chen
Arrowwood viburnum (Viburnum dentatum) is a fairly small flowering shrub that is part of the honeysuckle family. It grows in an upright, rounded shape with stems of glossy green, oval foliage with toothed edges. The leaves are around 4 inches long. In the late spring, the shrub bears showy white flowers that stretch roughly 2 to 4 inches across. Blue-black fruits appear after the flowers and tend to attract birds and other wildlife. In the fall, the shrub’s foliage turns to shades of yellow, orange, and red. Arrowwood viburnum has a moderate growth rate. It can be planted in the spring or early fall. Botanical Name Viburnum dentatum Common Names Arrowwood viburnum, southern arrowwood, American arrowwood, roughish arrowwood Plant Type Shrub Mature Size 6–10 ft. tall and wide Sun Exposure Full, partial Soil Type Loamy, moist, well-drained Soil pH Acidic Bloom Time Spring Flower Color White Hardiness Zones 2–8 (USDA) Native Area North America Arrowwood Viburnum Care Arrowwood viburnum shrubs are good for border plantings, as well as for use as hedges and screens. In ideal growing conditions and with excellent care the shrubs can reach 15 feet tall, but normally they are a bit smaller than that. They also are a good choice for planting in areas of your yard that are too wet for many other plants, as they can handle wet soil. In terms of their care, plan to water whenever the soil begins to dry out. Fertilization will generally be an annual task, along with pruning. The shrubs can spread out of their bounds via suckers traveling through the soil. So cut back these suckers if you wish to prevent the shrub’s spread. Moreover, if you live in a climate that has considerable temperature fluctuations, a light layer of mulch around your shrub can help to keep its roots at a consistent temperature as well as to retain soil moisture. Light This shrub grows well in full sunlight to partial shade, meaning it needs at least roughly four hours of direct sunlight on most days. In hot climates, shade from the strong afternoon sun is ideal. But too little sun can impede flowering. Soil Arrowwood viburnum prefers a loamy, well-drained soil. But it can tolerate a range of soil types, including clay soil. It likes an acidic soil pH. Water The shrub needs at least a moderate amount of soil moisture, though mature plants have some drought tolerance. They also can handle occasional flooding. Keep young shrubs well watered, and continue to give established plants water whenever the soil begins to dry out. Temperature and Humidity The shrubs prefer temperate conditions, though they have fairly good heat and cold tolerance within their growing zones. Make sure to water them well in very hot weather to minimize plant stress, and give them protection if your temperatures will be unseasonably cold to prevent foliage damage. Humidity typically isn’t an issue for the shrubs. Fertilizer To encourage healthy growth and profuse flowering, apply a balanced, slow-release fertilizer in the spring. It also can be beneficial to mix compost into the soil around your shrub. Common Pests/Diseases Arrowwood viburnum shrubs don’t have serious issues with pests or diseases. However, they might be bothered by the viburnum leaf beetle (Pyrrhalta viburni). This beetle has become a major problem for viburnum shrubs in Europe and North America. Both the adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of the bushes. And if not controlled, the pest can defoliate your shrubs completely, resulting in their death. The female beetles lay their eggs on the undersides of the shrub stems. So if you notice dark spots there, it’s best to prune off those stems and dispose of them before the eggs hatch in the spring. Use organic pesticides only for serious infestations, as they also can kill beneficial insects. Pruning These shrubs don’t need extensive pruning. Right after the plant is done flowering, prune any stems necessary to maintain the shrub’s shape. But avoid taking off more than a third of the shrub's overall size. Remove any dead, damaged, or diseased portions of the shrub whenever you spot them. Viburnum Varieties There are several species and varieties of viburnum shrubs, including: Burkwood viburnum: Burkwood viburnum grows to around 8 to 10 feet tall with a slightly smaller spread. Its glossy leaves and fragrant flowers are its main selling points. Doublefile viburnum: Doublefile viburnum is a beetle-resistant bush and has showier flowers than arrowwood viburnum. Korean spice viburnum: Not only is Korean spice viburnum beetle-resistant, but it is also very fragrant. Mapleleaf viburnum: Mapleleaf viburnum sports unusual pinkish fall foliage and reaches around 4 to 6 feet tall and wide. Snowball bush viburnum: This shrub's common name says it all. Gardeners grow snowball bush for the rounded shape of its white flower heads.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年08月15日
Miss Chen
The arrowhead vine is a pretty trailing or climbing vine that tends to grow quickly under the right conditions. Native to a wide region of South America, it has become a popular houseplant, thanks to its easy-going nature and appealing hanging shape. The arrowhead vine's leaf structure changes as it matures, going from a simple arrow shape to a deeply lobed or divided mature leaf. Its leaves can vary in hue depending on their age, ranging from dark green and white to lime green and bright pink. Arrowhead vine is only viable outdoors in USDA hardiness zones 10 through 12, so in most locations in the United States, it is grown year-round as a houseplant. The vine does best if left relatively alone, making it a great pick for novice gardeners or those who just forget to tend to their in-home garden frequently.
Botanical Name Syngonium podophyllum Common Name Arrowhead vine Plant Type Vine Mature Size 3–6 ft. tall, 1–2 ft. wide Sun Exposure Partial shade Soil Type Moist but well-drained Soil pH Neutral to acidic Bloom Time Summer (rarely flowers) Flower Color White Hardiness Zones 10–12 (USDA) Native Area South America, Mexico Toxicity Toxic to dogs and cats Arrowhead Vine Care Arrowhead vine is a relatively easy houseplant to care for—it will thrive under the same conditions as its very popular relative, the philodendron. Arrowhead vines are climbers in the wild and will eventually grow from shade into full sun in the canopy of trees, with leaves maturing and gaining size as the plants gain altitude. As a houseplant, they're often used as trailing plants once mature and can be trained up a pole or moss stick for added visual interest. Alternately, you can pinch new growth to maintain the young plant's upright stems. Tropical in nature, arrowhead vines are perfect for a sunroom or greenhouse conservatory where ample heat, light, and humidity will encourage their growth. Provide your arrowhead vine with the right growing conditions, and you will have a lush and healthy plant. Light Arrowhead vine likes bright light but no direct sun. Diffused light is best, as harsh rays can burn or bleach the delicate leaves and vines. Variegated colorways can handle a bit more direct sun, while deeper green varieties are better adapted to partial shade. Soil Plant your arrowhead vine in a traditional soil-based potting mix. Arrowhead vines are prone to root rot, so you'll want to make sure whichever potting soil you choose is well-draining. Additionally, consider planting your vine in a terracotta or clay vessel to wick away extra moisture from the soil. Water Water your arrowhead vine regularly during the spring and summer months, and reduce your watering cadence come winter. During the spring and summer, you want to allow your vine to dry out partially between waterings but never completely. Likewise, the plant should not be kept too wet, either. Temperature and Humidity True to its tropical nature, arrowhead vine prefers warm and humid conditions. If possible, maintain temperatures above 60 degrees Fahrenheit. While the plant can tolerate average humidity, it will thrive best with added moisture in the air. Consider keeping your plant somewhere in your home with naturally higher humidity (like a kitchen or bathroom), or utilize a method of increasing humidity, like a portable machine or placing a bed of wet river rocks beneath the pot. Fertilizer Feed your arrowhead vine once a month with liquid fertilizer throughout the spring, summer, and fall months. You can halt feeding throughout winter when the plant will naturally slow its growth. Propagating Arrowhead Vine Arrowhead vine plants root readily from stem cuttings and can easily be propagated in the spring or summer months. If your plant has aerial roots along the stem, take a section of the stem with attached roots to increase your odds of success. To propagate arrowhead vine, place your cutting into a glass of water—within a few weeks, you'll notice new roots have begun to form. Wait at least a month until the roots have strengthened, topping off the water periodically. At that point, you can plant the cutting into the soil as you normally would.
Repotting Arrowhead Vine These plants are aggressive, rapid-growing vines, so the frequency of repotting depends somewhat on how big you want the vine to get. Repot yearly for a larger vine. Otherwise, refresh potting media every spring and repot every other year to ensure the plant does not become root-bound. Common Pests and Diseases Arrowhead vine is relatively resistant to pests on its own. However, dwelling in the home amongst other plants can expose it to pests like spider mites, mealybugs, aphids, and scale. If you notice any of these afflictions, treat your plant immediately with neem oil or another natural solution.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年08月13日
Miss Chen
Black chokeberry (Aronia melanocarpa) is a deciduous shrub that is native to the eastern part of North America. It grows in an upright and fairly rounded shape. Its glossy, dark green leaves are around 1 to 3 inches long and either lanceolate or elliptical in shape. The foliage turns red to reddish-purple in the fall, providing striking color to the landscape before dropping off the plant for winter. Clusters of small five-petaled flowers appear in the spring, and purplish-black to black fruits that are around the size of blueberries appear in the late summer to fall. Black chokeberry has a slow to moderate growth rate and can be planted in the fall or spring.
Botanical Name Aronia melanocarpa Common Names Black chokeberry, aronia berry, aronia, chokeberry Plant Type Shrub Mature Size 3–6 ft. tall and wide Sun Exposure Full, partial Soil Type Well-drained Soil pH Acidic Bloom Time Spring Flower Color White Hardiness Zone 3–8 (USDA) Native Area North America Black Chokeberry Care This shrub is highly adaptable and hardy. It can grow well in both moist and dry locations. Plus, ideally the soil pH should be acidic, but it can also grow in alkaline soil. And while it prefers soil that drains well, it is also tolerant of boggy soil. You can take advantage of the adaptability of black chokeberry when deciding how to use it in the landscape. For example, its tolerance of boggy soil makes it an excellent choice for wet areas where many other plants refuse to grow. Because black chokeberry is so tolerant to many different growing conditions, it also tends to readily spread in the landscape. If you don't want multiple shrubs forming a thicket, you will have to monitor for and remove suckers around the base of the plant from which new plants with grow. Other than that, maintenance is very low for this shrub, as it will mostly take care of itself. It also generally doesn't have any major problems with pests or diseases. Plan to water during dry spells and prune annually to maintain its shape. Light You can plant a black chokeberry shrub in either full sun or partial shade. But you will get the best flowering and fruiting in locations with full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days. In too much shade, the shrub will likely only minimally flower and fruit, and it will produce weak growth that ultimately could kill the plant. Soil A virtue of this shrub is how adaptable it is to a wide range of soils. It can tolerate both sandy and clay soil, though it prefers to grow in something in between those two. It also can handle some salt in the soil, making it a good option for a site near roadways that use road salt. Water Black chokeberry has moderate water needs. It can tolerate both the occasional drought and occasional flooding. But during prolonged dry spells and during particularly hot weather, it is ideal to give your shrub some water.
Temperature and Humidity Black chokeberry has good tolerance for both the cold and hot temperatures of its growing zones. It flowers fairly late in the spring to avoid frost. But if there happens to be a late frost, this can damage the blooms and affect later fruiting for that growing season. So if your area does expect frost when your shrub is in bloom, consider covering the shrub with a sheet to protect it. Moreover, humidity typically isn’t an issue for the shrub as long as there is good air circulation around the foliage to prevent fungal diseases. Fertilizer Black chokeberry likely won't need supplemental fertilization unless you have nutrient-deficient soil. You can mix compost into the soil when you plant your shrub to give its growth a boost. Then, each spring apply a light layer of compost for continued healthy growth. Black Chokeberry Varieties There are several varieties of black chokeberry that vary slightly in appearance, including: ‘Autumn Magic’: This shrub has a more compact growth habit than the main species plant but with large clusters of fruit. ‘Iroquois Beauty’: This variety also has a compact growth habit and features particularly vivid fall color. ‘Viking’: This variety is known for its large black fruit and also sports vivid fall color. ‘McKenzie’: This is a tall variety that can grow up to 12 feet. Pruning Besides removing suckers around the base of the shrub as needed to prevent unwanted new shrubs from growing, pruning will not be an extensive chore for the black chokeberry shrub. After the plant is done flowering in the spring, lightly prune the stems to shape the shrub to your liking. Also, remove any dead, damaged, or diseased portions of the shrub as you spot them.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年08月12日
Miss Chen
It is hard to believe that the areca palm (Dypsis lutescens) was once an endangered species. Drive down almost any street in a warm climate, and you are likely to see dozens of these tall, attractive, clumping palms that look a lot like bamboo. The palms have smooth, sometimes golden trunks that are reminiscent of bamboo clumps. Their fronds are narrow and full, almost like bamboo leaves. When grown outdoors, they are often used as a privacy screen. They also are commonly grown as houseplants. These palms are best planted in the spring, and they have a slow to moderate growth rate.
Common Names Areca palm, bamboo palm, butterfly palm, golden cane palm, yellow palm Botanical Name Dypsis lutescens (formerly Chrysalidocarpus lutescens) Family Arecaceae Plant Type Perennial Mature Size 10–30 ft. tall, 8–15 ft. wide Sun Exposure Full, partial Soil Type Moist, well-drained Soil pH Acidic, neutral Bloom Time Summer Flower Color Pale yellow Hardiness Zones 10–11 (USDA) Native Area Madagascar Areca Palm Care When grown outdoors, it is important to start an areca palm off right in a planting site that has good drainage. Soggy soil can easily cause root rot on a palm. As a houseplant, a well-draining container is essential. In terms of regular care, plan to water your areca palm whenever the soil starts to dry out. This is especially important for outdoor palms in hot weather to keep them healthy. Moreover, indoor palms often don’t get enough light unless you have a very bright window. So it can benefit your palm to bring it outdoors in warm weather to be exposed to diffused sunlight. Feed both indoor and outdoor palms throughout the growing season. These palms don't need much in the way of pruning. Wait to remove any dying fronds until they are mostly brown, as they still can play a role in photosynthesis. Light Outdoors, these plants like bright, filtered sunlight, but they also can tolerate full sun. Ideally, they should have protection from strong afternoon sun, as too severe of light can scorch the foliage. Indoors, areca palms do best with bright light exposure from a south- or west-facing window. Soil For potted indoor plants, a well-draining, peat-based potting mix is perfect. Outdoor specimens do best with a rich, slightly acidic soil that has very good drainage. Amending with sand and peat moss might be necessary to improve porousness and lower the pH of the soil. Water Like many palms, areca palms like moist soil, but they are sensitive to overwatering and cannot tolerate being waterlogged or sitting in a water-saturated potting mix. So let the soil or potting mix dry out slightly between waterings. Areca palms also are sensitive to fluoridated water, so use distilled water or collected rainwater.1 Temperature and Humidity Indoors or outdoors, this plant does best in average temperatures of 65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit. It will do fine planted in the garden in regions where outdoor temperatures don't dip below about 50 degrees Fahrenheit. When grown as an indoor plant, keep the leaves away from cold windows, air conditioners, and heat sources. And if you place potted plants outside during the summer, be sure to bring them in before temperatures dip below 50 degrees. Sudden cold bursts can cause dark spots on the leaves. Furthermore, high humidity is essential to keeping an areca palm looking its best. The plant will acclimate to normal indoor humidity. But if the air is too dry, it is common for the leaf tips to turn brown. Fertilizer The areca palm is a heavy feeder and requires fertilizing from spring to early fall with a liquid fertilizer, following label instructions. Do not feed during the late fall and winter when the plant is dormant. Propagating Areca Palm You can propagate areca palm by root division, which will give you a lush plant faster than from seed, but you will not be successful doing so with cuttings. Root division can be done at any time during the year, but the plant will be its strongest in the spring. To divide by root division from a potted areca palm: Choose a mature plant with multiple stems. Water well the day before dividing to loosen up the roots from the soil. Remove the palm from its pot by patting the sides of the container to loosen the root ball. Shake soil from the roots. Rinse soil from roots so you can see which roots go to which stems. Choose four to five stems and, with a sharp knife, cut them away from the parent. Gently place divided stems together in a pot with a 2-to-1 mixture of regular potting soil and coarse sand. Place the pot in bright and indirect light (not direct sun) and water normally. How to Grow Areca Palm From Seed Areca palms can also be planted from seeds. It is unusual to find areca palm seeds at garden centers; however, you can harvest seeds from the fruits that appear after the palm's yellow flowers bloom. If you propagate with seeds, germinate them at home by planting them slightly covered in a seed-starting mix. The older, orange-colored seeds generally have a better germination rate than the newer, greener seeds. Germination takes about six weeks with soil over 80 degrees Fahrenheit and relatively high humidity. Keep the seed-starting mix moist but not soggy as you wait for germination, and then continue to keep the seedlings moist as well. When the seedlings grow a few leaves, plant them outdoors 3 to 6 feet apart, or plant three to four seedlings to a 12-inch pot to create a bushy look. Potting and Repotting Areca Palms Areca palms like a somewhat cramped container with ample drainage holes, and crowded roots will aid in keeping the palm's size in check for growth as a houseplant. However, it's still ideal to repot every other year or so to refresh the potting mix and remove fertilizer salt deposits that have built up in the container. You may use the same pot if the palm's root ball still comfortably fits it. Otherwise, use just one container size up. Replant the palm at the same depth as it was previously. Common Pests & Plant Diseases Areca palms don’t have serious issues with pests or diseases. Occasionally a palm will come down with lethal yellowing, an insect-transmitted bacterial disease that causes fronds and ultimately the whole palm to die. Outdoor palms are generally the ones afflicted with this, and because treatment usually isn’t effective it’s typically best to remove the palm before the disease can spread. Indoor areca palms are vulnerable to common houseplant pests, including mites, aphids, mealybugs, scale, and whiteflies, which can cause foliage damage and discoloration. Treat any infestation as soon as possible.
Common Problems With Areca Palm Although the plant can be easy to care for, it's prone to one particular issue that happens to both indoor and outdoor areca palms: Keep an eye out for leaf tip burn. Leaf Tip Burn Leaf tip burn means the tips and leaves have turned yellow or brown. This can happen from: Chilled air Overwatering Underwatering Poor soil conditions Compacted roots The areca palm is self-cleaning, which means it typically will shed its brown fronds on its own. For an indoor areca palm, it may be best to first amend the soil to make sure it's draining and the roots are not sitting in water. Or, move the pot to a spot with less light and higher humidity before thinking about the last resort of repotting the plant. You can also manually sheer off brown spots to tidy up your indoor or outdoor plant.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年08月10日
Miss Chen
Anthurium is a genus of around 1,000 species of perennial plants native to Central America, northern South America, and the Caribbean. While they can be grown outdoors in the garden in warm climates, anthurium is more often grown as houseplants by enthusiasts willing to put forth the effort for a plant that can be fussy. Some species are highly prized for their bright, exotic flowers, while others are grown mostly for their foliage. The flowering varieties of these plants are distinctive for their multicolored spathes and red or yellow tail-like flower spikes. Other varieties feature large-leaved, deeply veined foliage. Many anthuriums are climbers and all need high humidity and warmth to thrive. They tend to thrive in greenhouses, and no type of anthurium is particularly well-suited for indoor, domestic living without a lot of attention and care.
Botanical Name Anthurnium spp. Common Names Anthurium, tailflower, flamingo flower, laceleaf Plant Type Herbaceous perennial Mature Size 12 to 18 inches, 9- to 12-inch spread Sun Exposure Bright indirect light Soil Type Coarse, moist potting mix Soil pH 5.5 to 6.5 (slightly acidic) Bloom Time Flowers freely Bloom Color Red, pink, or white, with contrasting spadex Hardiness Zones 11 to 12 Native Area Central America, northern South America, Caribbean. Anthurium Plant Care Anthurium plants thrive in bright, indirect light. They do not like exposure to direct sunlight, except in the winter months or in plants that have been carefully acclimated. Wild anthuriums generally live in temperatures at or above 60 degrees Fahrenheit and the foliage types prefer temperatures even warmer. If temperatures dip below this level, the plant will suffer. Potted anthuriums prefer a rich but well-draining potting mix that should be kept moist but not wet. A potting mix tailored for orchids, with a few handfuls of sand and a few handfuls of peat moss mixed in, is ideal. In natural settings, many anthurium plants are "epiphytic"—they grow on other plants instead of in soil. If your plant fails to support itself, give it a stake or small trellis to climb on. Repotting should be done whenever the plant fills up its pot with roots.This can occur every year or two, when you see "air roots" begin to extend up above the soil level. This is a sign that the plant can be repotted, which is also a good time to propagate new plants. Light Indoors or out, anthuriums grow best in bright, indirect light. Avoid direct sun, which can burn the leaves. Soil Anthuriums prefer a coarse, well-draining potting. An orchid mix with additional sand and peat moss mixed in, makes a perfect potting mix for anthuriums. Water The soil should be kept slightly moist and never allowed to dry out completely. Setting the pot in a tray of water-filled gravel will help the plant drain and also help keep humidity levels high. Allow the top of the soil to dry out to the touch before watering again. Temperature and Humidity All species of anthurium are native tropical plants and mimicking those conditions will give you the best chances for success. This plant prefers high humidity and temperatures between 65 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. These plants can be grown outside only in zones 11 to 12, and will likely perish at temperatures 40 degrees or less. In dry climates—or during dry winter months—mist the plant daily to keep humidity levels high. You may find it necessary to run a humidifier constantly during dry months. Fertilizer It is safe and recommended to use liquid fertilizer throughout the growing period. Use a fertilizer high in phosphorus, and dilute it to half strength to feed the plants every two weeks or so. Propagating Anthuriums An easy way to create new anthuriums is by cutting off the "air roots" that grow up above the soil level in the pot, dipping these root pieces in rooting hormone, and burying them in a new pot with fresh potting mix. Roots will start to send up stems and leaves within four to six weeks. Anthuriums can also be propagated from cuttings. Select a stem at least 6 inches long with two or three sets of leaves. Dip the cut end of the stem in rooting hormone, then bury it in potting mix up to the first set of leaves. Water the cutting thoroughly when you plant it, then whenever the soil becomes dry. Mist the cutting each week to provide humidity. The cutting should develop roots within four to six weeks, and new growth shoots will soon follow. Potting and Repotting When an anthurium fills up its pot with roots and begins to send up plentiful air roots, it is time to repot. Normally, this is necessary every two years or so. Transfer the plant to a pot that only slightly larger than the old one—no more than 2 inches larger. Fill the pot only about 1/3 full of potting mix, then set the plant onto the soil and lightly pack additional soil around the base, up to the level the plant was buried in its old pot. As new air roots form above the soil over the following weeks, lightly pack additional potting mix around the exposed roots.
Varieties of Anthurium Common varieties sold as house plants include: A. andreanum: These feature heart-shaped leaves that grow up to 1 foot, with flowers available in red, white, pink, and variegated colors. They are distinguished by a straight flower spike. A. scherzerianum: The most forgiving of anthuriums, it features a curling orange flower spike and the leaves are arrow-shaped. Anthuriums are collector's plants, and many of the most magnificent varieties are rarely found outside of greenhouses and botanical gardens. Other, less common species to consider include: A. crystallinum: These have deep green, velvety leaves with pronounced white ribs. The leaves grow up to 2 feet across. A. faustinomirandae: A monster-sized plant with cardboard-stiff leaves that grow up to 5 feet long. This is almost exclusively a greenhouse plant. A. crystallinum: These have deep green, velvety leaves with pronounced white ribs. The leaves grow up to 2 feet across. A. faustinomirandae: A monster-sized plant with cardboard-stiff leaves that grow up to 5 feet long. This is almost exclusively a greenhouse plant. Common Pests/ Diseases These plants are subject to some of the same pests that commonly affect most houseplants: mealybugs, spider mites, whitefly, and scale. Horticultural oils and soaps can be used to treat these. If dry or drafty locations, the foliage on anthuriums may scorch. In rare cases, fungal rots, blights, or leaf spots may occur.
0
0
文章
8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23
相关用户
筒叶花月
筒叶花月
来自： 斑目
玉露
玉露
来自： 安静的种花人
玉露
玉露
来自： 石头剪子布
天津
玉露
玉露
来自： 绿野鱼悅
温州市
筒叶花月
筒叶花月
来自： Heidi Liu
玉露
玉露
来自： 一万吨少女心
筒叶花月
筒叶花月
来自： KiddaHoo
郑州
保利安娜
保利安娜
来自： 辣木姐--璐颖
玉露
玉露
来自： 倾心
福州
玉露
玉露
来自： 小欢喜
广州
举报 反馈

您有什么意见或建议，欢迎给我们留言。

请输入内容
提交
取消
设置
VIP
退出登录
关闭
分享

分享好文，绿手指（GFinger）养花助手见证你的成长。

关闭
请前往电脑端操作

请前往电脑端操作

关闭
转发
插入话题
提醒好友
发布
/
提交成功 提交失败 最大图片质量 成功 警告 啊哦！ 出了点小问题 转发成功 举报 转发 显示更多 _zh 文章 求助 动态 刚刚 回复 邀你一起尬聊！ 表情 添加图片 评论 仅支持 .JPG .JPEG .PNG .GIF 图片尺寸不得小于300*300px 最少上传一张图片 请输入内容