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Miss Chen
2022年02月04日
Miss Chen
Despite its common name, the cardboard palm (Zamia furfuracea) is not a palm tree. Its name comes from its growth habit, which is similar to that of palms. Cardboard palms grow pinnate leaves (a leaf composed of many small leaflets on either side of a stem) much like a palm frond that you'd find on a lipstick palm. The leaflets are bright green and oval, and they have a slightly fuzzy feel similar to cardboard. The plant is generally shorter than it is wide, with a thick, partially subterranean trunk. It has a slow growth rate and is best planted in the spring. Outside of its tropical growing zones, it’s commonly kept as a houseplant. Botanical Name Zamia furfuracea Common Names Cardboard palm, cardboard plant, cardboard sago, cardboard cycad, Jamaican sago, Mexican cycad Plant Type Perennial Mature Size 3–5 ft. tall, 4–6 ft. wide Sun Exposure Full Soil Type Sandy, well-drained Soil pH Acidic Bloom Time None Flower Color None Hardiness Zones 9–11 (USDA) Native Area Central America Toxicity Toxic to people and pets
Cardboard Palm Care Cardboard palms are hardy plants, and they generally don’t require a great deal of care. The key to growing them successfully is to provide them with well-drained soil and give them lots of sunlight, especially during the growing season (spring to fall) and when the plant is young. Other than that, you’ll have to water whenever the soil dries out and feed your cardboard palm twice a year. These plants don’t have major problems with pests or diseases. However, overwatering and allowing water to collect on the plant foliage can cause fungal diseases. So be sure only to water the soil around the base of the plant. Regular pruning is not necessary, but you can prune off dead, diseased, or damaged leaves as they arise. Light Cardboard palms grow best in full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days. Indoors, place your plant by your brightest window, and be sure to rotate the pot regularly so all parts of the plant get an even amount of light. Otherwise the cardboard palm will start to grow lopsided. Soil These plants can tolerate a variety of soil types as long as they have good drainage. A loose, sandy soil with a slightly acidic soil pH is best. Cardboard palms in containers will grow well in a potting mix made for cacti and palms. Water Only a moderate amount of water is required for cardboard palms. And overwatering can cause the roots to rot. From the spring to fall, water whenever the top inch of soil feels dry. But over the winter, reduce watering by about half of what you watered during the growing season. Temperature and Humidity Cardboard palms are fairly hardy plants. They can tolerate heat, but cold temperatures and frost can damage or kill them. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 60 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit, and they prefer low to average humidity levels. Fertilizer Feed your plant twice a year with a slow-release palm fertilizer. One application should be at the beginning of the spring and the other at the start of autumn.
Potting and Repotting Cardboard Palms Growing cardboard palms from seed is especially difficult, so it’s recommended to select a nursery plant to pot. Pick a sturdy pot with ample drainage holes that’s slightly larger than your plant’s root ball, and plant the cardboard palm in quality potting mix. This plant doesn’t like to have its roots disturbed, so only repot once the roots have outgrown the container and are poking out of it. This will typically occur every two to three years until the plant has reached its maximum size. Select one pot size up, gently remove the cardboard palm from its old container, and replant it in the new one with fresh potting mix at the same depth it was planted before. Zamia Varieties The cardboard palm is only one of more than 50 species within the Zamia genus. Most of these species grow in tropical environments, and many have palm-like features. Some Zamia species include: Zamia integrifolia: This species can be found in the Southeastern United States and features dark green leaves that extend around 4 feet from the trunk. Zamia pseudoparasitica: This species is epiphytic, meaning it generally grows on the surface of other plants. Zamia splendens: This species is known for its glossy reddish-brown leaves and has good shade tolerance. Zamia decumbens: This unusual species has trunks that run horizontally along the ground, rather than growing vertically.
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Miss Chen
2022年02月02日
Miss Chen
You may be familiar with capers, used for culinary purposes around the world, without realizing that they actually come from a popular (and quite beautiful) bush. Native to the Mediterranean, the caper bush is most often grown for its unripened flower buds, which are picked, dried, and brined, then used to add a burst of tangy, intense flavor to a variety of dishes. Even if you're not a fan of capers, these plants can make a wonderful addition to your garden. Best planted in the spring, caper bushes produce fragrant and ornamental white flowers with beautiful violet stamens. The flowers only last for a day, but if you let the bush spread freely, you're likely to see flowers all through the summer. These plants grow slowly, reaching maturity in about two years and hitting optimal bud production the following year. They're well-suited to gravelly soil, so they can make a good addition to a courtyard or rock garden that gets plenty of sunlight. Traditional caper bushes have sharp thorns on their vines, but many commercial varieties have been developed to be spineless. Botanical Name Capparis spinosa Common Name Caper bush Plant Type Evergreen shrub Mature Size 2–3 ft. tall, 3–6 ft. wide Sun Exposure Full sun Soil Type Dry, well-drained Soil pH Neutral to acidic Bloom Time Spring, summer, early fall Flower Color White Hardiness Zones 8–10 (USDA) Native Area Europe
Caper Bush Care Under the right conditions, caper bushes will grow prolifically and won't require a lot of maintenance. They don't need much water and can handle even rocky, nutrient-poor soil, so even novice gardeners (and those with less-than-desirable landscapes) will likely find success with them. Additionally, caper bushes have no serious issues with pests or diseases. Light Caper bushes need plenty of direct sunlight to thrive. Plant them somewhere where they can get at least six to eight hours of light a day. If partial shade is the only option in your landscape, aim for a spot that gets morning sun and afternoon shade, which will shield them from the hottest part of the day. Soil Caper bushes are pretty easy-going when it comes to their soil. They do well in blends of all types, including soil that is low in nutrients, sandy, or especially gravelly. The same goes for the pH level of their soil—acidic, neutral, and alkaline are all fine options. The only necessity caper bushes have is a planting location that is well-draining. The bush hates "wet feet" and will fail to thrive if its soil does not dry out quickly. Water Caper bushes have a deep root system and foliage that finds and retain moisture easily. When you first plant them, they will need more frequent watering in order to establish themselves in your landscape. After this, only minimal watering will be necessary and the plant will become drought-tolerant. Temperature and Humidity Just like in their native environment, caper bushes will thrive in locations where they can experience dry heat. In very hot regions, the plant can remain evergreen, but it will lose its leaves if temperatures drop significantly in winter. If you experience hot summers but chillier winters, you can consider keeping your bush in a suitably sized container and bring it indoors when the temperatures drop. Caper bushes are only hardy down to around 18 degrees Fahrenheit and will die if exposed to temperatures lower than this. Fertilizer An established caper bush can thrive in highly infertile soil and won't need additional feeding. However, for the first couple of years, while the plant is still young, feeding with a slow-release fertilizer solution a few times in the spring and summer can be beneficial. Pruning Caper Bush Hard pruning your caper bush each winter will encourage healthy new blooms the following year and help the shrub maintain a tidy shape. For newer young plants, wait several years to prune them as they get established—they should be producing buds for at least two years before you start pruning. Propagating Caper Bush Patience, perseverance, and care are required if you plan on trying to grow caper bushes from stem cuttings. Select spring basal cuttings that have a decent number of buds on them—ideally, they should be around 4 inches long. Dip the base of the cutting in a rooting hormone to up the chances of establishment, then plant in soil and keep warm and moist for at least two weeks.
How to Grow Caper Bush From Seed Many gardeners opt to buy a young caper bush from a nursery, as the dormant seeds from the plant are known for being tricky to germinate. If you want to give it a try, begin by soaking the seeds for 24 hours. If the seeds aren't fresh, they will also need a period of cold stratification—the seeds should be kept moist, sealed, and refrigerated for at least a couple of months. After the stratification process is complete, make sure that you give the seeds an additional 24 hours soaking in warm water before sowing them. The medium you choose to sow the seeds in should be loose, well-draining, and moist. Although germination can start around a month after sowing, it can also take up to three months. Great care should be taken when transplanting delicate seedlings—they don't take kindly to having their roots disturbed. Overly hot or cold temperatures are also problematic, and seedings should be kept out of direct sunlight or housed indoors during colder temperatures until they're well-established. Harvesting Capers Once your bush is producing well, you'll be able to start harvesting buds during the summer. Make sure any buds you pick are dark green, tight, and at least 1/4-inch wide. Pick them in the morning—they may start to open as the day gets hotter. The buds will then need to be sun-dried before they're brined, salted, or pickled.
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Miss Chen
2022年01月29日
Miss Chen
Cape honeysuckle flowers are a blazing orange hue, sure to brighten up your tropical garden. It is used as either a shrub or liana and its color and sweet nectar attract hummingbirds. Not only is it versatile in looks, but it also is easy to maintain, making it a perfect idea for a splash of uniqueness in your garden. The name "Cape honeysuckle" came about because the native region for this shrub is in South Africa, by the Cape of Good Hope. It is a bit misleading: This is not true honeysuckle. Real honeysuckles belong to the Caprifoliaceae family and are found in the Lonicera genus. Other members include the desert willow, northern and southern catalpa, and jacaranda. How to Grow and Care for a Peperomia Plant Each pinnately compound leaf is made up of five to nine diamond-shaped leaflets. Whether they are evergreen or deciduous depends on how cool the climate gets in winter. Cape honeysuckle is a fast-grower that can gain anywhere from 13- to 25-inches tall in its first year after a successful spring planting.
Botanical Name Tecoma capensis Common Name Cape honeysuckle Plant Type Flowering evergreen shrub Mature Size 3-10 ft. tall as a shrub; 25-30 ft. long as a vine Sun Exposure Full sun to partial shade Soil Type Well drained Soil pH 5.6-8.5 Bloom Time Fall, winter, spring Flower Color Orange to orange-red Hardiness Zone 9-11 (USDA); it can survive in zone 8 with some protection. Native Area South Africa Cape Honeysuckle Care The shape of this plant depends entirely on how you let it grow, as it can either be a shrub or vine. As a shrub, it can be anywhere from 3- to 10-feet tall, depending on how consistently you prune it. In vine form it will travel a lot farther, reaching lengths of 25-30 feet or more. Usually, the cape honeysuckle is treated as a shrub and clipped into a box shape. However, this plant also likes to vine, so consider it for your trellis or pergola. During the fall through spring (possibly the entire year), the Cape honeysuckle will be covered with an abundance of orange (sometimes reddish or yellow, depending on variety) trumpet-shaped blooms. Once the flowers have been pollinated, long capsule fruits are produced. There aren't many problems with this plant. If your zone gets some frost, this can cause damage to the leaves and branches. You may run across problems with too little or too many nutrients, which is usually most apparent in the foliage. There may be other environmental problems like leaf scorch. Overall, though, this shrub should stay happy and healthy over its lifetime with little maintenance. Light Cape honeysuckle is a tropical plant and does prefer full sun. Some light shade, however, is acceptable, though shaded plants will produce fewer blooms. Soil Don't fret about the pH of your soil too much, as this plant can handle both acidic and alkaline soils. It also grows in salty locations like coastal regions and can handle gusts of wind. Water Water your Cape honeysuckle weekly if you are growing it in full sun, or just once or twice a month if it is in shade. After a year of regular watering, the roots should be established enough to provide drought tolerance. Temperature and Humidity Cape honeysuckle is a tropical plant that thrives in hardiness zones 9–11. It is heat and drought tolerant, but its branches and leaves tend to die back at temperatures under 25 degrees Fahrenheit. Fertilizer If you've tested the soil and detected a lack of nutrients, go ahead and use some fertilizer. It is usually not needed, though. It is a good idea to mulch your cape honeysuckle if there is a predicted frost. Cape Honeysuckle Varieties 'Aurea' features golden-yellow flowers. 'Coccinea' has blooms that are bright red or scarlet. 'Salmonea' produces orange or pink flowers. Pruning Pruning your Cape honeysuckle depends on the shape you've chosen for it. If you're going for a hedge, trimming may be required on a regular basis since this grows fast. Cut it back to the ground every three to four years in the spring (or as needed) to help keep it from sprawling. You should also prune away branches that were damaged by frost at the start of spring. This plant does produce suckers. Clip them away if you don't want them to spread. Less maintenance will be needed if you are using it like a vine. You will just need to keep it trained on its support system.
Propagating Cape Honeysuckle You can easily propagate Cape honeysuckle with softwood cuttings, which should start producing new roots within two to 14 weeks. How to Grow Cape Honeysuckle From Seed Cape honeysuckle grows well from stratified seeds; plant them in shallow trays and covered in sand or seed-starting mix. Seeds will germinate in six to 21 days. Plant seedlings when they feel sturdy; Cape honeysuckle will bloom in the second year. Potting and Repotting Cape Honeysuckle Cape honeysuckle makes for great container plants if you live outside the tropical weather they crave. Plant them pots with good-sized drainage holes, in standard potting mix, and increase the container size by 2-inches each time you repot. Bring these pots indoors in colder months, to protect them for next season. Common Pests & Diseases Cape honeysuckle attracts aphids and scale insects, both of which enjoy the plant's new growth and foliage. You can rid your plant of these pests with insecticidal soap.
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Miss Chen
2022年01月27日
Miss Chen
Canterbury bells is a biennial that has been popular for many years in European and North American landscapes. It is a medium-sized specimen with an upright plant form. Its best feature is the numerous, bell-shaped flowers it produces. Botanical Name Campanula medium Common Name Canterbury bells, cups and saucers Plant Type Biennial Mature Size 20 to 26 inches tall and 12 to 18 inches wide Sun Exposure Full sun to partial shade Soil Type Rich, well-drained, and kept evenly moist Soil pH Neutral to slightly acidic or slightly alkaline Bloom Time Early summer, on average Flower Color Pink, white, purple, and blue Hardiness Zones 5 to 8 Native Area Southern Europe
How to Grow Canterbury Bells Indigenous to the Mediterranean climate of southern Europe, Canterbury bells do poorly in the humid climate of regions such as the southeastern United States but perform well in all but the coldest portions of the northern United States. As a biennial, Canterbury bells takes two years to bloom, after which time it will die. The best way to grow a crop of them is to start them by seed. Here's how: Sow the seed in a tray filled with potting soil in late winter. Sprinkle a light covering of vermiculite over the seeds. Using a spray bottle full of water, spray the vermiculite lightly to keep it evenly moist but not soggy. Maintain a consistent temperature of 65 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit. When the seedlings emerge (three to four weeks), put the tray in a sunny window and keep the soil evenly moist. In mid-spring, begin hardening off the seedlings. Transplant the seedlings into the spot in the garden that you have selected for them once the danger of frost has passed. You will have only leaves the first year. The next year, you will have flowers. Light Although it will survive in partial shade, Canterbury bells flower better when planted in full sun. Soil Mix compost into the ground where you plant your Canterbury bells. This will not only increase fertility but will also improve soil drainage. Water Water regularly during the growing season. The goal is to keep the soil consistently moist but not soggy. Fertilizer Fertilize in late spring with a balanced fertilizer. Hose down the soil thoroughly afterward so that the fertilizer goes down to the roots. Varieties of Canterbury Bells Canterbury bells come in a number of cultivars and seed mixes, including: Campanula medium var. calycanthema alba: 24 to 36 inches tall; white flowers Campanula medium Bells of Holland: 18 inches tall; pink, purple, or white flowers Campanula medium Champion Pink: 2 feet tall; pink flowers Campanula medium Dwarf Bella Mix: 14 inches tall; blue, lilac, pink, or white flowers Campanula medium Double Melton Mix: 3 feet tall; flowers dark pink, light pink, or purple; double blooms Common Pests/Diseases Common pests and diseases include aphids, mites, slugs, snails, powdery mildew, and rust. Given the height of the plant, it is helpful to provide support by staking it. The Bellflower Family Canterbury bells is a member of the bellflower family, so-called for the bell shape of the flowers. Members of the family typically have "bell" in their common names, such as harebell (Campanula rotundifolia).
The Campanula genus is diverse, having not only upright plants such as Canterbury bells but also plants that behave more like ground covers. An example of the latter is Dalmatian bellflower (Campanula portenschlagiana). Such shorter plants are well suited for use in rock gardens. North American gardeners interested in growing native plant gardens can use a Campanula native to their region. It is aptly named Campanula americana (the common name is tall bellflower). This herbaceous perennial reaches 3 to 6 feet in height and 1 to 2 feet in width and has blue flowers. Grow it in zones 4 to 7 in full sun to partial shade. Landscape Uses for Canterbury Bells Canterbury bells are not known to be poisonous, either to people or to pets. It does well in containers. These facts make it a great choice when you need a plant to grow in an urn or whiskey barrel on a deck or a patio where kids will be playing or where pets will be basking in the sun. More commonly, Canterbury bells are grown in flower beds, where its medium height makes it just about right for the second row in a bed of three rows, staggered according to height. It is also wonderful massed together in border plantings. It is a classic cottage garden plant.
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Miss Chen
2022年01月25日
Miss Chen
On a hot summer day, there are few things as refreshing and rewarding as a cool sweet slice of melon fresh from the garden. While some people might instantly think of the large, juicy watermelon, the cantaloupe melon variety has grown in popularity thanks to its versatility and numerous health benefits. This melon comes from the plant Cucumis melo var. reticulatus—a fruiting vine. The cantaloupe is easily recognized by the beige, netted pattern that forms over the green rind, and the orange flesh is deliciously sweet. These heat-loving plants are sometimes grown in the south from the early spring or even in the fall. In slightly milder northern climes, they can be grown as an annual summer fruit. You can expect to have a harvest within three months of planting.
How to Grow and Care for a Swiss Cheese Plant Botanical Name Cucumis. melo var. reticulatus Common Name Cantaloupe, rockmelon, muskmelon Plant Type Fruiting vine Mature Size Vine grows up to 18 in. tall and spreads up to 6 ft. The fruit usually weighs around 4 lbs. Sun Exposure Full sun Soil Type Loamy, sandy, well draining Soil pH Slightly acidic, neutral (6.0 to 6.5) Bloom Time Differs Flower Color Yellow Hardiness Zones 5-11 (USDA) Native Area South Asia, Africa How to Plant Cantaloupe A good method for growing any melon, pumpkin, or squash is to plant them in a row of mounds. This will ensure adequate drainage, as cantaloupes need a lot of water but do not like to sit in soggy soil. Light Cucumis melo needs full sun. If an area without at least eight hours of sun a day is not available, cantaloupe may not be the best plant to grow. Soil Cantaloupe plants should have rich, loamy, well-draining soil that is neutral to slightly acidic. Testing the soil prior to planting is highly recommended to ensure a good quality harvest. Too much nitrogen can give off an abundance of foliage and not enough fruit. Soil lacking in magnesium can result in fruit that is lacking in flavor. Test the soil again if the weather is especially wet. Too much rain during fruiting periods can also lend itself to bland fruit. Water Ensuring your cantaloupe plant gets the right amount of water at the right time is going to be one of the most important things for ensuring a juicy healthy crop. While the plants are growing, blooming, and setting fruit, they need two gallons of water per week. Watering in the morning is preferred to allow leaves to dry off in the afternoon to prevent the development of fungus or mildew. As the fruit grows, taper the watering. Hot, dry conditions in the final stages of maturation produce the sweetest melons. Temperature and Humidity Temperatures consistently ranging from 70 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit during the growing season will produce the best harvest. The plant isn't frost-tolerant, plus temperatures exceeding 90 degrees Fahrenheit can cause flower drop and a poor fruit harvest. Cantaloupes prefer higher humidity in their initial growth phase before lowering slightly to around 60 to 70 percent during the flowering and fruit development stages. Fertilizer Feeding is not recommended until a soil test is performed. Excessive nitrogen can result in the spread of leafy vines rather than good fruit production. Adding composted manure when planting and then a balanced organic fertilizer (like a fish emulsion) every few weeks is common practice. Cantaloupe vs. Muskmelon The melon people in North America know as the cantaloupe is also often referred to as the muskmelon. More accurately, however, the term muskmelon refers to any Cucumis melo species. There are two Cucumis melo muskmelon varieties referred to as cantaloupes. The North American variety (Cucumismelo var. reticulatus) and the European variety (C. melo var. cantalupensis). The net-like pattern on the rind distinguishes the North American cantaloupe, and it has a subtler flavor than the European type. Plus, the European cantaloupe is rarely produced or sold in this hemisphere. Harvesting Cantaloupe Melons You can expect a harvest from your cantaloupe plant around 35 to 40 days after flowering depending on weather conditions. Watch for signs the fruit is ready to be harvested, and do not wait for it to fall off the vine. The skin turns greenish beige, the netting becomes rough and dry, and the tendrils near the fruit turn brown and dry. Gently twist the fruit from the stem. If it doesn't come off easily, let it ripen a bit more.
Cantaloupes typically grow to be 3 to 4 pounds when ripe, but some cultivars have been known to reach up to 20 pounds! Pruning Melon flowers require pollination to set fruit. Cucumis melo is a monoecious plant, so it produces male and female flowers separately on the same plant. The vine will begin producing male blooms several weeks before the females appear. The males will not prod When fruit production does start, it might sound counterproductive but cut off new blossoms on the end of the vine. This will decrease the yield but increase the size and taste of the fruit already on the vine. If your plants are not fruiting, you can always hand-pollinate. Remove a male flower from the vine. Take off the petals revealing the stamen. Insert the stamen into a female flower and softly shake the stamen on the stigma, coating it with pollen. Propagating Cantaloupe Cantaloupe can be grown from seed or starters. If living in a colder area, starters are recommended. Starting with established plants will lengthen the growing season and give them a head start. Of course, starting the seed indoors is also an option. This should be done four to six weeks before the first frost to allow enough time for germination and emergence. Seedlings should not be transplanted until all frost dangers are gone, and the ground temperature is above 65 degrees Fahrenheit. For the lucky people in areas with longer growing seasons and warmer climates, seeds can be directly sown when the frost conditions and temperatures listed above are met. Plant the seeds and starters an inch deep and 18 to 24 inches apart. Depending on the amount of space, a trellis system may be needed to help the vine climb. Once the seeds or starters are planted, mulching is recommended to help keep the soil moist and to combat weeds.
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Miss Chen
2022年01月23日
Miss Chen
Growing cannas in your garden is an easy way to create instant tropical flair. Cannas are tropical and subtropical flowering plants with large, banana-like leaves. Cannas' popularity and active hybridizing have resulted in a dazzling array of cannas to choose from, many with large, showy flowers and variegated leaves that look like stained glass when the sun shines through them. Striking flowers notwithstanding, cannas are often grown for their foliage alone. The large, paddle-like leaves come in a range of greens and blue-greens and can have variegation and stripes. Somewhat tubular and lily-like, Canna flowers come in shades and combinations of yellow, orange, red, and pink and are borne on tall stalks poking out of the foliage. Rhizomes planted in spring after the last frost will take a few weeks to sprout but will then grow at a rapid pace and may even flower in the first year. Because most Cannas sold today are the result of many crosses, Cannas are rarely classified and are simply considered hybrids.
Botanical Name Canna × generalis Common Name Canna lily Plant Type Annual flower (in most zones) Mature Size 18 inches to 10 feet tall and 1.5 to 6 feet wide Sun Exposure Full sun Soil Type Rich, moist Soil pH 6.0 to 6.5 Bloom Time Summer Flower Color Yellow, orange, red, pink Hardiness Zones 8 to 11 Native Area Tropics How to Grow Canna Plants In planting zones 8 and up, cannas will repeat-bloom throughout summer, and throughout the year in zones 9 and above. For everyone else, there are three options: You can let them die off each fall and start with fresh rhizomes in the spring; you can pot the plants and bring them indoors to live as houseplants; or you can dig up and store the rhizomes for the winter (and replant them in spring). Canna leaves are covered with a waxy substance that repels water and protects against fungus. They may be bothered by rust or bacterial blight especially in poorly drained soils. Pest problems can include leaf rollers and caterpillars while slugs and snails may munch on the leaves. Light Cannas do best in full sun. This means they may need more water in really hot climates, but they need heat to spur their growth. In the hottest area, some afternoon shade helps flowers last longer. Soil Plant cannas in rich, moist soil, ideally with a slightly acid to neutral soil pH. Water Cannas need consistent water and evenly moist soil. Water often, especially in extreme heat. Insufficient water will cause the leaves to tear or crack. Temperature and Humidity Blooming depends on the climate and weather. In areas with cool springs, the plants may be slow to get started. Potting them up indoors, before your last frost date, and moving them out while they are already growing, will help them bloom earlier. As tropical plants, cannas prefer humid air but can tolerate relative dryness, especially if they are properly watered.
Fertilizer In addition to needing lots of water, cannas are hungry plants, although they store some food in their rhizomes. Feed them in early spring and midsummer, using a balanced fertilizer. Propagating Canna Plants Since most of the newer varieties are hybrids, canna lilies are generally grown from rhizomes rather than seed. If you live in a climate with frost and would like to preserve outdoor plants for the next season, cut the foliage and stem to 6 inches. Then, dig the rhizomes and let them dry in a protected, shady spot. When dry, shake off the excess soil, wrap the rhizomes in newspaper, and store them in a dark, cool location until spring. Check on them periodically to make sure they are not rotting or drying out. The size and amount of blooms of cannas are linked to the number of "eyes" on a rhizome. The more eyes, the bigger plant and better blooms. Look for rhizomes with 3-5 eyes, and plant them in spring with the eyes facing up 4 to 5 inches deep. Or, if you'd like to get a head start on the season, pot them up indoors, four to six weeks before your last frost, and move them out once the temperature warms. Keep the rhizomes moist but not soaking wet. Varieties of Cannas 'Lucifer': red flowers with yellow borders; green leaves; 2 feet tall 'The President': scarlet blossoms; green leaves; 3 to 3.5 feet tall 'Pretoria' ('Bengal Tiger'): orange flowers; yellow and green striped foliage; 4 to 6 feet tall 'Stuttgart': orange flowers; green and white variegated foliage; 3 to 4 feet tall 'Tropicanna': dark variegated leaves with large, orange flowers; also comes in Black and Gold; 4 to 6 feet tall Pruning To keep your plants flowering throughout the season, deadhead them as the blooms start to fade. If you prefer to grow cannas for their foliage alone, you can cut back the flower stalks before they even have a chance to bloom. Landscape Uses Cannas can't help but be focal points. A single specimen can anchor a circle garden. Planted in a mass, they can look both tropical and Victorian. The colors and tropical feel combine well with other "hot" colors. There's even a variety of canna that grows in extremely wet soil--or even in water gardens. This plant is a hybrid of Canna glauca. They look gorgeous in bog gardens, or can be planted in baskets in water gardens.
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Miss Chen
2022年01月21日
Miss Chen
Cannas (Canna spp.) are a genus of beautiful, easy-to-grow tropical and sub-tropical plants with showy flowers that come in red, pink, yellow, orange, and cream. Their flowers are very attractive to hummingbirds. Canna leaves are wide and long (resembling banana leaves) in green, bronze, or multicolored patterns. Most cannas grow up to 6 feet tall and occasionally as tall as 8 feet. These plants grow from rhizomes, modified stems that store nutrients and send up shoots. Throughout their hardiness zone, cannas can remain in the ground as true perennials. In colder climates, the rhizomes can be lifted in the fall, stored over winter, and replanted in the spring. Best planted from rhizomes in the early spring, cannas can take a few weeks to sprout. After sprouting, they grow at a fairly quick pace and typically flower in their first year. How to Grow and Care for Avocados as Houseplants Botanical Name Canna Common Name Canna, canna lily Plant Type Flowering perennial (annual in colder zones) Mature Size 1 1/2– 8 feet tall, 1 1/2–6 feet wide Sun Exposure Full sun Soil Type Rich, moist, well-draining Soil pH 6.0 to 6.5 (slightly acidic) Bloom Time Summer Flower Color Red, orange, yellow, pink, cream, white; solid color or with contrasting spots ​Hardiness Zones 7 to 10 ( USDA); rhizomes must be dug and stored over winter in colder climates Native Areas South America, Central America, West Indies, Mexico, southeastern United States
Canna Care In the garden, plant canna rhizomes horizontally in a planting hole four to six inches deep, fill the planting hole with soil and then add a thick layer of mulch. Space rhizomes 18 to 24 inches apart. These plants don't like to be crowded, and if other plants encroach they might refuse to bloom. In colder climates, after the first frost in fall, cut the canna back to the ground. Carefully dig up the rhizome clumps and store them through the winter in peat moss or vermiculite in a location that doesn't fall below 40 degrees Fahrenheit. Spray the rhizomes with water infrequently to prevent them from drying out, but don't allow them to sit in a consistently damp medium. You can bring container-grown plants indoors in their pots. Canna leaves have a waxy coating that helps resist fungal diseases. They are also generally resistant to pest problems, although you might find caterpillars or grasshoppers eating the leaves—remove them by hand. Light These plants prefer full sun to grow vibrant leaves and flowers, but they can survive in partial sun. Just make sure that the soil doesn't become overly moist. Soil Cannas can tolerate a variety of soils with proper drainage. They prefer rich soils that are high in organic matter. A soil pH of roughly 6.5 is ideal, but cannas can handle a wide range of acidic to alkaline soils. Water Water your canna once or twice a week. The soil should be kept uniformly moist but not soggy. Otherwise, this can lead to rot. Temperature and Humidity Cannas are sensitive to cold temperatures and frost, but they thrive in temperatures up to 90 degrees Fahrenheit. In areas that have relatively cool springtime temperatures, canna growth might start slowly. In cooler climates, Zones 7 and lower, you can get a head start on the growing season by starting them indoors in pots and then move them outdoors once they are actively growing and all danger of frost has passed. These plants are native to tropical zones, so they also do well in warm and humid conditions. If you live in a dry climate, you can raise the humidity around a container plant by placing it on a dish filled with water and pebbles, making sure the bottom of the pot isn't touching the water. Fertilizer Cannas are heavy feeders. So use plenty of compost or organic fertilizer to keep the plant happy. If you are using organic materials, you cannot overfertilize a canna. Feed monthly throughout the growing season, starting in the early spring, with a balanced fertilizer. Canna Varieties There are hundreds of varieties of cannas, ranging in color and size. Some popular varieties include: 'King Humbert': an older variety with dark bronze-purple foliage and large red to orange-red flowers 'Shenandoah': bears deep pink flowers with burgundy leaves 'Tropicana': produces orange flowers with leaves striped with burgundy, gold, yellow, pink, and green 'Pretoria' ('Bengal Tiger'): bicolored orange flowers and yellow and green striped foliage 'The President': very large scarlet flowers provide striking contrast with its deep green foliage 'Stuttgart': produces orange flowers and is distinguished by its bold striped green-and-white foliage Pruning Cannas generally do not need pruning, but deadheading the flowers (once they have faded) will produce more blooms. If you prize the foliage of your cannas over their flowers, you can cut off the flower stalks before they bloom to enable the plants to direct their energy toward the foliage. Propagating Cannas Cannas are readily propagated by digging up the rhizomes and dividing them for replanting. Do this early in the spring or in the fall. Carefully dig up the entire plant, taking care not to damage the rhizomes or the roots of the mother plant. Trim the above-ground growth so only about 1 inch extends from the crown (where the stems meet the rhizomes). Clean excess soil from the rhizomes and note where the old rhizomes meet the new; cut along these joints to separate the rhizomes, making sure each piece has one or more eyes. If dividing in the fall, store them for the winter, then replant in the spring. Plant each rhizome division in prepared soil at a depth of four to six inches.
Growing Cannas in Containers Cannas are large plants, so bigger is better in terms of choosing an appropriate container. Choose a container that is no smaller than 16 inches in diameter with adequate drainage holes. A large container is not only important for aesthetic reasons of scale, A large container also gives the plant space to grow a strong and healthy root system, and prevents the container from becoming top heavy and tipping over as the plant matures. Make sure the container has good drainage, and fill it with quality potting soil. Because cannas are heavy feeders, mix some slow-release fertilizer into your potting soil before you plant. If you live in a cold-winter climate and have saved rhizomes from last year's plants, you can get a head start on the next growing season by potting up the rhizomes indoors four to six weeks before the last frost in spring. Maintain adequate moisture but do not make the soil overly wet. Move the pots outdoors or plant in the ground after the danger of frost has passed. Common Pests/ Diseases Slugs, snails, and Japanese beetles delight in chewing holes in canna leaves and flowers. But the worst pest is a caterpillar known as the canna leaf roller. The canna leaf roller moth lays its eggs in the bud of a growing stalk, and the hatching caterpillars leave a sticky webbing that prevents the leaf from unfurling. Remove a leaf if you see that it's unable to unfurl, and consider spraying the plant with insecticidal soap if pests are present Cannas also are susceptible to rust fungus, canna mosaic virus, and aster yellows. Observe foliage that appears sickly and discolored. With rust fungus, you often can simply remove the affected leaves. But with canna mosaic virus and aster yellows, you often have to dispose of the entire plant.
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Miss Chen
2022年01月19日
Miss Chen
Candytuft (Iberis sempervirens), a ground-hugging perennial flower frequently used as pathway edging, is a late bloomer that brightens gardens in April or May. Best planted in early fall, it is a slow grower that will brighten gardens for many years. Its white or pink blooms are abundant and showy. Masses of blinding white flowers dot the stems. The color of the blossoms stands out nicely against the backdrop of the dark green foliage and also makes these plants good for moon gardens. The petals form a pretty pattern that never fails to hold your attention if you are willing to take a good, close-up look. They are effective for drawing bees and butterflies to your landscaping, thereby improving pollination for other perennials. One thing the flowers do not have going for them is a nice aroma; the scent is actually unpleasant.
How to Keep Your Flowers Fresh (We Tested ALL the Methods!) Botanical Name Iberis Sempervirens Common Name Candytuft Plant Type Perennial Mature Size 12–18 in. tall, 12-16 in. wide Sun Exposure Full, partial Soil Type Well-drained, gravelly Soil pH Alkaline Bloom Time Spring Flower Color White, pink, lilac, red Hardiness Zones 4 to 8 (USDA) Native Area Mediterranean Candytuft Care Candytuft is considered an evergreen or semi-evergreen sub-shrub, but most gardeners treat it as they would any other perennial flower. This flowering ground cover is part of the mustard (or cabbage) family. This makes it a so-called "crucifer," even though that name usually calls to mind food crops such as broccoli. Candytuft flowers are suitable for growing in USDA hardiness zones 4 to 8. When planting, space them about 6 inches apart in moist soil if you want a ground cover that will fill in quickly. Because candytuft flowers crave well-drained soils, they are perfect for rock gardens, where Angelina stonecrop makes for a good companion plant to grow with them. Their drought resistance also makes candytuft a good choice for xeriscaping. Their rich-green foliage and showy blooms make candytufts effective where short edging plants or ground covers are required. They are short enough that they won't block your view of the flowers growing behind them. Light 'Purity' candytuft will tolerate some shade but bloom best when planted in the sun. For zone 8, all varieties of candytuft will benefit from a spot where the flower will have partial shade in the afternoon during the hottest part of the day, especially during the heat of summer. Soil Candytufts are native to southern Europe, including areas along the Mediterranean coast; they prefer the kind of gravelly soil found in their land of origin. More importantly, it is critical to provide them with excellent drainage. This perennial prefers to be grown in​ the ground with a soil pH that is on the alkaline side. Water Once established, candytuft flowers are moderately drought-tolerant, but make sure to water young plants, particularly during dry periods. Temperature and Humidity In cold regions such as zone 5, the leaves are only semi-evergreen. Some gardeners in cold regions gently place pine boughs over the plants in late fall to shelter them from the cold, drying winds of winter and to keep them green longer. The natural environment for candytuft tends to have drier air conditions. For that reason, it is not recommended for areas with high humidity such as the southeastern United States as the flowers tend to wilt. Fertilizer Fertilizing candytuft is not necessary but can help ensure abundant blooms. A slow-release fertilizer will help candytuft grow if applied in early spring. Choose a low-nitrogen, high-phosphorous mix for best results. Varieties of Candytuft The name "candytuft" probably conjures images of tufts of candy. However, the name actually originates from the word "Candia," an early name for the island of Crete, which was the source of the first plants imported to Europe. "Tuft" may refer to either the clusters of flowers or the mounded growth habit of the plant. The Latin genus name indicates the plant harkens from Spain and the Iberian peninsula (Iberia), while the second part of the name, sempervirens, indicates that the plant has evergreen foliage—the term is derived from the Latin words for "always" and "alive." Here are a few popular varieties of candytuft: 'Purity' has sparkling white flowers and can reach 10 inches in height, with a slightly greater spread. 'Nana' is a shorter cultivar that reaches a height of 6 inches and has lovely white blooms. 'Autumn Snow' is a well-named cultivar that will rebloom in the fall. 'Pink Ice' is a springtime favorite, bearing pink-colored blossoms with dark pink centers.
Pruning To keep candytuft looking tidy, you can prune away the top one-third of the foliage after blooming—this will keep them from getting leggy. However, if you are planting candytuft flowers behind a retaining wall, legginess may actually be a good quality. In this case, prune them only if you think the stems are getting too woody-looking. Pruning will spawn new, fresh growth. Propagating Candytuft If propagating from cutting, select a green, healthy stem that is a bit long or tall. While the stem will self-root, it does take a while. Be patient if you use this method. Propagating can also be done through root division in the fall right before candytufts begin their winter dormancy. One large plant can be divided into two to three new plants and stems and roots are included in each clump. Common Pests/Diseases Candytufts are deer-resistant perennials and are also rabbit-proof. In fact, this plant is mainly free of pests and most disease problems, although root rot can be an issue if they are planted in boggy soil.
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Miss Chen
2022年01月17日
Miss Chen
Candy corn plant is a small semi-woody evergreen shrub that derives its name from the color and shape of the flowers, which closely mimic the familiar bulk candy by the same name. These are clumping plants with narrow leaves that cover upright red stems, from which bloom the yellow and red tubular flowers that resemble kernels of candy corn. Candy corn plant (Cuphea micropetala) is member of the Cuphea genus containing more than 250 perennials and semi-woody shrubs native to tropical and temperate regions. This species is perennial in warm climate zones (8 to 12), but it is often grown as an annual in cooler climates. It is frequently planted in border beds and cottage gardens, or as an edging plant along walkways, and can also be used as a container plant on decks and patios. This plant is also great for attracting butterflies and other pollinators. How to Grow a Zebra Plant Indoors Botanical Name Cuphea micropetala Common Name Candy corn plant Plant Type Semi-woody shrub, often planted as an annual Mature Size 3 feet tall, with a 2-foot spread Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade Soil Type Average, well-drained soil Soil pH 5.5 to 6.5; slightly acidic to neutral Bloom Time Summer to fall Flower Color Orange and yellow Hardiness Zones 8 to 11, USDA Native Area Mexico How to Grow Candy Corn Plants Gardeners who have experienced a mature candy corn plant will tell you it's a centerpiece in any pollinator garden, attracting scores of butterflies and hummingbirds with its tubular, nectar-rich blossoms. Candy corn plants are easy for beginners, as they require little care beyond proper sitting in a warm, sunny garden. They do best in ordinary, well-drained soil.
These plants may become leggy as the growing season progresses, and pinching them back can rejuvenate them and improve the blooms. Light Full sun will reward you with the highest bloom count on your candy corn plants. Plants will also grow in partial sun, though with fewer blooms. Soil In spite of its delicate blooms, candy corn plant is a tough species that will tolerate clay soil as well as the salty conditions of a beachside garden. Candy corn plants do not grow well in wet or boggy soils. Water Once candy corn plants are established, they are drought-tolerant plants. An inch of water per week in the growing season is adequate to keep plants thriving. Temperature and Humidity As natives of Mexico, candy corn plants relish hot weather. They aren't picky about humidity, and will grow in both dry or humid climates. Fertilizer Candy corn plants are known for their rugged nature and their ability to thrive in poor soils. Supplemental fertilizer isn't necessary, and may cause plants to produce excessive foliage at the expense of fewer blooms. However, spreading 1 inch of good compost around the plants each spring does improve the vigor and blooming of the plants. Propagating Candy Corn Plant Increase your candy corn plant collection by taking softwood cuttings from plants in the spring. Cut about 4 inches from a non-blooming stem, and insert the stem into moist potting soil. Place in a partially shady location, and keep constantly moist until roots develop, which takes about six weeks. If you live in a warm region and your candy corn plant survives from past seasons, you can propagate it by division. This also rejuvenates plants that get too woody after a few years in the same location. Pruning Because the flowers grow all along the stems of candy corn plants, you can prune the plant to give it a tidy shape without sacrificing any flowers during the growing season. Cut the plants back hard in late winter to encourage a new flush of growth in the spring. Growing in Containers Candy corn plants can grow in large containers or urns outdoors, using an all-purpose potting soil. (They are generally too large to grow in pots as indoor plants.) Choose a container at least 18 inches to accommodate these large plants. Repotting isn't necessary for plants grown as annuals, but when growing them as perennials in warmer climates, it may help to repot them every few years as they fill their pots with dense roots.
Growing From Seeds As candy corn plant flowers fade, look for papery seed capsules and collect the brownish-green seeds. Seeds won't grow in temperatures lower than 70 degrees F. Seeds need light to germinate, so press lightly on the soil surface. Keep moist until germination occurs, usually within two weeks. Compared With Cigar Plant, Candy Corn Vine Candy corn plant is closely related genetically to the cigar plant (Cuphea ignea), with whom it shares a similar size and flower shape. The difference is principally the flower color. As the name suggests, cigar flower resembles the glowing embers of a burning cigar, with a warm red color and none of the yellow hues found in the blooms of candy corn plant. Candy corn plant is also frequently mistaken for candy corn vine (Manettia luteorubra). Although they are entirely different species from unrelated genera, the flower resemblance is quite close; however, candy corn vine (sometimes called firecracker vine) is a twining, climbing plant. The two plants can make pleasing companions in a sunny landscape, and are sometimes planted together.
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Miss Chen
2022年01月15日
Miss Chen
The Plectranthus genus is large, with more than 350 species of annuals, perennials, semi-succulents, and shrubs from Africa, Madagascar, Asia, Australia, and Pacific Islands. Members of the genus come in a variety of colors and sizes. But the blue spur flower (Plectranthus barbatus) stands out for its large, upright bushy structure. Also known by the botanical name Coleus barbatus, this plant is native to Africa but has spread abundantly. These plants can grow up to five feet in size and have aggressive runners that can choke out native plants if not kept in check. However, this same destructive behavior makes them wonderful plants for creating dense garden beds. The blue spur flower features deep green foliage and sends up stalks with six to eight deep blue-to-purple flowers. Before planting, be sure to check your area to ensure it is not an invasive pest concern. One way to avoid unwanted spreading is by planting them in containers. The Plectranthus genus does well grown in pots and can even be kept indoors. Botanical Name Plectranthus barbatus, Coleus barbatus Common Name Blue Spur Flower, Candlestick Plant, Speckled Spur Flower, Zulu Wonder Plant Type Perennial Mature Size 5 feet tall Sun Exposure Sun to partial shade Soil Type Rich, well-draining Soil pH Neutral to acidic Bloom Time Late summer to early fall Flower Color Lavender Hardiness Zones 9 to 11 Native Area Africa
Blue Spur Flower Care Though it has vibrant blooms and a commanding presence, the blue spur flower is an easy-to-care-for addition to your garden. These plants thrive in dappled sunlight and well-draining soil. Try to mimic the environment of the rich forest floor and your Plectranthus barbatus will be very happy. Because blue spur flowers are such prolific spreaders, occasional pruning is needed to help maintain a bushier, fuller plant. They are quite hardy and can withstand a wide range of temperatures. However, a deep freeze will kill these flowers, so be sure to protect them from very cold temperatures. Light Most blue spur flowers can tolerate full sun, but they prefer partial shade to really thrive. They are naturally found in forests or river banks with filtered light, so imitating this type of lighting will create the healthiest specimens. For indoor lighting, place in an area with bright, indirect lighting for best results. Soil These vibrant flowers need rich soil like those found in the forest. Adding some organic matter or compost to your soil before planting will mimic this fertile environment. This will also help the soil to drain well and prevent problems with overwatering. Water The Plectranthus genus is drought resistant and, therefore, not very picky when it comes to watering. A regular watering schedule is still beneficial but resist the urge to water it constantly. If you live in a hot, dry climate, more watering may be needed to keep it healthy. However, be sure not to overwater, as this can quickly kill your plant. Water when the top inch of soil feels dry. Temperature and Humidity Consistent with its hardy nature, the blue spur flower can withstand a wide range of temperatures. It does well with heat and can also survive a frost. As a tropical plant, a deep freeze will kill this plant though, so be sure to protect it if you have any harsh weather heading your way. One way to do this would be to bring your blue spur flower inside for the winter. Fertilizer The Plectranthus family is quite hardy and does not require frequent fertilizing to maintain a full and healthy plant. Adding organic material and compost to the soil before planting will provide its nutrition needs. If you would like to encourage growth and flowering, a general fertilizer will do the job nicely. Potting and Repotting The blue spur flower does quite well in pots and can even be brought inside during harsh winters to be kept as a houseplant. If you would like to keep this plant in a pot, make sure you choose one with good drainage. Since these plants are drought-tolerant, they do not like to sit in water. Too much water can quickly kill them. This makes drainage holes a must. Propagating Blue Spur Flower The blue spur flower is an aggressive spreader. It does this by sending out offshoots under the soil. To propagate, you can simply dig up some of these offshoots and move the divided plant to its new area.
Another option for propagation is by using stem cuttings. The cuttings root easily in soil and can be grown without much hassle. Here’s how: 1. Using sharp garden snips or scissors, cut a section from your plant that is a few inches in length. 2. Remove the bottom leaves. 3. Place your cutting in damp soil. Keep moist while rooting. Your new Plectranthus should take root rather quickly, and, before you know it, you will have another thriving plant.
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