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Miss Chen
2021年09月17日
Miss Chen
Baby's breath plants (Gypsophila spp.) have become somewhat of a cliché in floral arrangements. But they also can look lovely in the garden. There are more than 100 annual and perennial species within this genus with varying appearances. Some have a creeping growth habit, forming an attractive flowering ground cover. And others grow in more upright and contained mounds with extensive branching of their slender stems, giving the plants a light and airy feel. Their small, narrow leaves are gray-green to blue-green in color. In the summer, baby’s breath plants are covered in tiny, five-petaled, white or pink flowers that last several weeks. The blooms are known to attract butterflies and other pollinators. Baby’s breath should be planted in the spring after the danger of frost has passed. The plants have a fast growth rate. Botanical Name Gypsophila Common Name Baby's breath Plant Type Perennial, annual Mature Size 2–3 feet tall and wide Sun Exposure Full Soil Type Well-drained Soil pH Alkaline Bloom Time Summer Flower Color White, pink Hardiness Zones 3–9 (USDA) Native Area Europe, Africa, Asia, Australia Toxicity Toxic to people and pets
Baby's Breath Care Baby’s breath plants generally require very little maintenance. Plant them in a spot that gets lots of light and has good soil drainage, and they’ll practically take care of themselves. Plus, they rarely have serious issues with pests or diseases. You’ll typically only need to water during dry spells and feed annually. Once your plants mature, you might need to provide them with support, such as garden stakes, to prevent the thin stems from flopping over. You also can proactively install stakes at the time of planting that the baby’s breath can grow around. These plants don’t need deadheading (removing spent blooms). But they can benefit from a light pruning after flowering, which will help to maintain their shape and might promote another bloom. Light Baby's breath plants grow best in full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days. But they will tolerate a bit of shade, especially from hot afternoon sun. However, too much shade will result in leggy plants and poor flowering. Soil Baby's breath plants can grow in a range of soil types, as long as they have good drainage. Sandy soil works well whereas wet clay soil does not. So if your soil is heavy, consider planting baby's breath in raised garden beds or containers. These plants also like a slightly alkaline soil pH, so if your soil is acidic sweeten it with an application of garden lime. Water Baby’s breath has low water needs and thrives in dry soil. Keep the soil moderately moist for young plants. But then you typically won’t have to water established plants unless you have an extended period of drought. Overwatering can cause root rot and kill the plant. Temperature and Humidity Baby’s breath can tolerate a range of temperatures within its growing zones. Some species have more cold tolerance than others. These plants prefer a dry climate over a humid one. So if you have high humidity, it’s imperative to make sure your plant has excellent soil drainage and isn’t sitting in constant moisture.
Fertilizer These plants aren’t heavy feeders, and too much fertilizer can cause floppy growth. To promote healthy growth and profuse blooms, simply work some compost into the planting site each spring. Baby's Breath Varieties There is a diversity to the Gypsophila genus that you might not expect if you only know baby's breath from the floral trade. Here are some different varieties of the plant: Gypsophila elegans: This species is considered an annual, but it tends to self-seed and come back in the garden year after year. It features notably large, open blooms compared to other baby’s breath species. Gypsophila paniculata ‘Bristol Fairy’: This cultivar sports double blooms that are white and roughly 1/4 inch wide. It grows in mounds that reach around 2 to 3 feet tall and wide. Gypsophila paniculata ‘Compacta Plena’: This is a compact variety that grows in mounds only around 15 to 18 inches tall and wide. Its flowers are very similar to those on the ‘Bristol Fairy’ cultivar. Gypsophila paniculata ‘Perfekta’: This variety can grow up to 3 feet tall and wide. Its flowers are very similar in appearance to the ‘Bristol Fairy’ cultivar except that they’re around twice the size. Gypsophila paniculata ‘Viette’s Dwarf’: This is another compact cultivar that only reaches around 12 to 15 inches tall and wide and thus typically won’t need staking to keep it upright. It features double flowers in pink that slowly fade to white.
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Miss Chen
2021年09月16日
Miss Chen
These adorable succulents truly live up to their nickname: Baby toes succulents (Fenestraria rhopalophylla) are small, clump-forming succulents that are native to Namibia and South Africa. They are classified as window-leafed succulents because the top of their tube-shaped leaves are transparent due to a lack of green pigment that allows light to pass through the thick, fleshy tubes. Adding to their attractive nature, these succulents produce delicate white or yellow flowers in the spring and fall. Botanical Name Fenestraria rhopalophylla Common Name Baby Toes, Baby's Toes, Window Plant Plant Type Succulent Mature Size 3 inches tall Sun Exposure Full Soil Type Sandy, well-drained Soil pH Acidic Bloom Time Spring, fall Flower Color Yellow, white Hardiness Zones 10a, 10b, 11a, 11b Native Area Namibia and South Africa Toxicity Toxicity to pets is widely debated; exercise caution Baby Toes Succulent Care Baby toes succulents require typical succulent care: full sun and infrequent watering. If you can provide these heat-loving succulents with enough sunlight, they are relatively low-maintenance. The active growing period for baby toes succulents is the fall, winter, and spring, and they are dormant in the summer months.
Light Baby toes succulents require full sun when they are grown indoors and outdoors. Ideally, they should receive at least six to eight hours of direct sunlight every day to encourage healthy growth and prevent legginess. If you are growing baby toes succulents indoors, you might need to provide a grow light to ensure they are receiving enough light throughout the day. Soil These succulents are susceptible to overwatering and should be planted in a well-draining, sandy soil mixture to help control moisture around the roots. A cactus or succulent soil mix is ideal and can be found at most nurseries and garden centers. You can also make succulent soil at home by mixing one part regular potting soil, one part perlite, and one part sand. Water Baby toes succulents are drought-tolerant and do not require frequent watering. The soak and dry watering method is ideal. Allow the soil to dry thoroughly between waterings and then water deeply until water streams out of the drainage holes of the pot. Baby toes succulents are dormant in the summer so water them sparingly during summer to prevent root rot. Temperature and Humidity These desert-dwelling succulents are hardy in USDA zones 10a to 11b. They appreciate hot, dry climates and do not tolerate frost. If you are growing these succulents outdoors in a climate that experiences cold winters, it is best to grow them in containers so that they can be moved indoors for the winter. Fertilizer Be careful not to over-fertilize baby toes succulents because they are sensitive to fertilizer burn. These succulents can tolerate poor-quality soils and do not require regular fertilization. However, you can lightly fertilize them at the beginning of the growing season with a low-strength, balanced fertilizer to help encourage strong growth. Avoid fertilizing baby toes succulents during their dormant period. Propagating Baby Toes Succulents These succulents grow pups similar to haworthias and aloe veras and can be readily propagated by division. Baby toes succulents can also be grown from seed, however, the seed is extremely hard to find from a reputable seller so it is easier to propagate from an established plant. It is best to divide baby toes succulents while you are repotting them because you will need to divide the roots as well. Once the roots are exposed, gently divide offsets from the mother plant by teasing the roots away from the root ball. The offsets should have their own set of established roots, which will allow you to replant them immediately. Potting and Repotting Baby Toes Succulents Baby toes succulents are slow-growing and do not require regular repotting. Repot only when the plant has outgrown its container. When choosing a new container, keep in mind that the pot should have adequate drainage to prevent root rot. Also, keep in mind that baby toes succulents have shallow root systems and do not require a deep container.
When repotting a baby toes succulent, be careful not to break any of the delicate roots or accidentally separate the plant. Gently loosen any compacted soil around the roots and fill the new container with fresh potting soil formulated for succulents. Thoroughly water the freshly repotted baby toes succulent. Common Pests and Diseases As with most succulents, baby toes succulents are not bothered by many pests or diseases. However, common pests such as mealybugs, scale, or aphids can be a problem for these fleshy-leaved succulents. Baby toes succulents are sensitive to root rot so ensure that the soil drains well and that containers have adequate drainage to prevent the roots from becoming waterlogged.
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Miss Chen
2021年09月14日
Miss Chen
Baby's tears (Soleirolia soleirolii) is a mat-forming tropical perennial with myriad tiny leaves. Often confused as a type of moss, it comes from the nettle family. What makes baby's tears special is its dense, delicate mat of fine round or bean-shaped leaves on short, fleshy stems. Baby's tears plants are easy to grow for beginners, but they require regular attention to look their best. It thrives in lower-light conditions and is commonly used in terrariums and mixed containers. In warmer climates, it's grown outdoors as an evergreen ground cover or filler plant for rock gardens. In colder zones, if planted outdoors, it's an annual that dies out as the winter season starts. This fast-growing plant is easy to grow from potted nursery plants in the spring. Although, it is an invasive plant in warmer, tropical climates. Common Name Baby tears, baby's tears, angel's tears Botanical Name Soleirolia soleirolii Family Urticaceae Plant Type Herbaceous perennial, often grown as an annual Mature Size 4 in. tall; 36 in. wide Sun Exposure Partial Soil Type Rich, moist loam Soil pH 5.0 to 6.0 ( slightly acidic) Bloom Time Late spring to early summer; May to June Flower Color Creamy ivory Hardiness Zones 9 to 11 (USDA) Native Area Mediterranean Baby's Tears Plant Care Baby's tears have a vigorous growth habit. It grows best outdoors in moist, well-drained soil in a partial to full shade spot. Despite its reputation for aggressive growth, baby's tears do not respond well to harsh sunlight or dry conditions. But in rich, well-drained, moist soil, the plant sends out runners and spreads throughout the area. This plant remains evergreen in warm climates but will die back with the first hint of frost. As a potted plant, baby's tears grow easily in a standard potting mix.
Outdoors, baby's tears have almost no serious pest or disease problems. Indoors, it may be affected by some of the same pests that affect many houseplants—aphids, mites, and mealybugs. Light Baby's tears plants can endure brief periods of intense sunlight, but they look their best in bright, filtered light. Plants growing in full sun may develop brown, scorched leaves. Baby tears plants can thrive under artificial lights indoors. Outdoors, place it in a shadier location. Soil A rich soil amended with humus, compost, or manure is sufficient for baby's tears plants. It will also help to regulate the moisture level for plants. Commercial potting soil is suitable for growing baby tears as a houseplant or in a container garden. Water Baby's tears plants are thirsty plants that never like to dry out. If you allow your plants to dry out, you'll notice a dramatic wilting. Water as soon as you notice wilting, and within a day, they should recover. Baby's tears houseplants will require slightly less water in the winter months. It's fine for the soil's surface to be dry, but the soil around the roots should be moist. Temperature and Humidity As an outdoor specimen, baby's tears plant grows best in a climate that remains between 50 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit. The higher the ambient temperature, the more attention the gardener must pay to light and humidity. Baby's tears plants can tolerate a light frost, but freezing temperatures that sometimes occur in U.S. Department of Agriculture hardiness zone 9, may kill the plant's top growth. The plant can regenerate after the transitional climate warms up again. Baby's tears appreciate high humidity with at least 75 percent humidty. These plants are ideal for a steamy bathroom or kitchen. If you live in a drier environment, these plants will appreciate life in a humid terrarium. Fertilizer A balanced plant fertilizer will keep the foliage of baby's tears plants bright green and dense. Give the plant liquid fertilizer through spring and summer every two weeks. The liquid form is easier to apply than spike inserts or granular fertilizer when no bare soil is visible. Types of Baby's Tears Soleirolia soleirolii 'Aurea': This variety has golden foliage; it grows a little lower than other types of this species and does not spread as widely. It does better in dappled shade. Soleirolia soleirolii 'Golden Queen': This variety has yellowish leaf margins. Soleirolia soleirolii 'Silver Queen': This variety has silver-gray foliage. Soleirolia soleirolii 'Variegata': This variety has variegated, silverish leaves with white stippling. It was formerly called 'Argentea.' Pruning Baby's Tears The green color is dominant across all varieties. If you have a variety that comes in a different color, such as a golden or variegated type, prune the green stems to prevent the cultivar from reverting to solid green. Although it isn't necessary to trim baby's tears, pruning will improve its appearance, encouraging new growth. If you grow baby's tears as a companion plant to another houseplant, give it a trim to keep it in bounds. Pruning is prudent in small terrariums. Baby's tears can quickly overrun other miniature plants in a confined space. Propagating Baby's Tears Baby's tears plant propagates easily, especially in its growing season, usually during the spring and summer. Wherever stems are touching the soil, they will form roots. Plants can spread without limit. If you want to keep the plant within its bounds but don't want to kill the overgrowth, move it to a container. These plants are seldom propagated by seed. Baby's tears plants are best propagated via division and cuttings. Here's how to do it: To propagate via division: To divide your plant, you will need a trowel, new growing container, or growing area for your divided plant. Separate a section of stems with soil and roots using a small trowel. Don't worry about damaging the plant; it will regenerate quickly. Replant the division in moist, well-draining potting soil. To propagate via stem cutting: You'll need scissors or pruning snips, a potting container, fresh moistened potting mix, and, optionally, some rooting hormone. Cut healthy stems that are at least 2 inches long. Remove the base leaves and keep only the leaves at the top of the stem. Make holes in the potting medium with your finger and plant the cuttings in the holes. For better results, dip the cut ends in water with the rooting hormone before burying the cut tip in the hole. Cover the cuttings with plastic wrap or a clear plastic or glass dome. After 3 to 4 weeks, the stems should be well-rooted. Potting and Repotting Baby's Tears Containers are another good option for people who live in subtropical zones, where this plant can get invasive if planted in-ground. Baby's tears plants adapt well to life in containers. In a small hanging basket, the spreading plants can spill attractively over the sides. In a terrarium, the plants can creep to the edges of the glass, hiding the bare soil. In a mixed outdoor planting, baby tears plants work great as an edging plant. Baby's tears plants grow quickly and need to be repotted regularly. Get a larger pot—in this case, the larger, the better—and get a commercial potting soil lightened with additional peat moss or perlite. The plant's stems are fragile, do not pull plants out of their containers by the stems or leaves. Turn the pots upside and tap, squeeze, or push on the drainage hole with a pencil to coax the plants loose. Place the roots in the new potting mix. Water thoroughly. Overwintering If you live in a place that gets frost or cold weather conditions, it's a good idea to grow baby's tears in containers. Bring these plants indoors when the weather approaches freezing temperatures. Frost will begin killing off the outer layer of leaves first. The plant will not survive outdoors if you live in a location with sustained wintery weather or in any hardiness zones less than 9. The plant should be able to bounce back if exposed to frost briefly. How to Get Baby's Tears to Bloom Baby’s tear plants produce tiny, creamy white, otherwise insignificant flowers. They bloom easily outdoors in late spring. They do not have petals and are not much to look at, so they are not used decoratively. Baby's tears rarely flower when kept indoors or cultivated. Common Problems With Baby's Tears Baby's tears are an easy plant to grow and care for—once you understand their needs. Your biggest considerations with this plant are making sure the plant gets sufficient water and humidity.
Wilting Wilting occurs because the plant's leaves are not getting enough water. Pot-bound plants are more susceptible to drying out. You'll notice continued wilting in plants that need to be repotted. Divide the plant and transplant the division in a new pot. Browning Leaves Plants growing in full sun may develop brown, scorched leaves. Move the plant to a shadier location or give it some cover if it's in-ground. Blackening Leaves and Foul-Smelling Soil Root rot can kill a plant if not caught in time. Overwatering causes this deadly disease. If you notice a few blackening leaves and a foul smell, the soil is likely soggy too. However, all may not be lost; you still might be able to rescue the plant. Unearth the root ball and repot it in a better draining soil, amended with perlite. Prune off the blackened leaves. Cut off any rotten or blackened root sections. Look for fungus gnats or aphids on your plant, too. They often infest plants that are weakened by root rot. If you notice pests, apply an insecticide soap or neem oil to remove the insects and keep them away.
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Miss Chen
2021年09月13日
Miss Chen
Peperomia (Peperomia spp.) belongs to a wonderful genus of tropical plants native to Mexico, South America, and the Caribbean. With more than 1,000 known species, these hearty plants boast thick, fleshy leaves that contribute to their drought tolerance and vigor. If you haven't experienced much luck with flowering houseplants, you will appreciate that the peperomia sports ornamental foliage. Its leaves can be textured or smooth in red, green, gray, or purple; variegated, marbled, or solid; large, heart-shaped, or tiny. Plants in the peperomia genus can look so different from one to the next that it's difficult to discern if they are even related. All peperomia plants are low maintenance, slow-growing, and can be planted all year long. Common Names Baby rubber plant, pepper elder, radiator plant, shining bush plant, emerald ripper pepper Botanical Name Peperomia spp. (including P. caperata, P. obtusifolia, and others) Family Piperaceae Plant Type Perennial, epiphyte Mature Size 6–12 in. tall, 6–12 in. wide Sun Exposure Full or partial Soil Type Moist but well-drained Soil pH Neutral to acidic Bloom Time Summer Flower Color White, green, brown Hardiness Zones 10–12 (USDA) Native Area Central America, South America, and the Caribbean Peperomia Plant Care The peperomia plant is a smart choice for beginner houseplant enthusiasts. Not only are they forgiving plants that tolerate some benign neglect, but the spectacular variety of colors and textures available within the species means that you can amass an interesting collection of plants for every style and space, all of which require the same care.
Plant peperomia in a pot with ample drainage holes, using an orchid potting mix, then place the plant in bright indirect light. Peperomia plants require little in the way of attention. You only need to water them when the soil is dry. Plant food or fertilizer is rarely necessary. Light Peperomia plants need medium to bright light to maintain their vibrant foliage colors. Morning light and filtered light are fine, or you can do 12 to 16 hours of artificial light. Insufficient light will result in fewer leaves, leaf drop, and drab coloration. Direct sun rays should be avoided, as they can burn the leaves. Soil Many peperomia plant species grow as epiphytes, which means in the wild, they might settle into the nook of a tree and send their roots into some slightly decaying bark. The key to a thriving peperomia is choosing a soil blend that mimics these conditions—chunky, loose, and acidic. An orchid potting medium typically works well, but regular potting soil is fine too. You can always lighten it with a handful of peat moss or vermiculite. Water The peperomia has succulent leaves that indicate that these plants don't need frequent watering to maintain vigor. Allow the surface of the soil to dry out between waterings. Keeping the peperomia on the dry side is better than saturating it. Soggy soil can lead to root rot and fungus gnat problems.1 Temperature and Humidity Outdoors, peperomia plants are hardy to USDA zone 10; they cannot be exposed to temperatures less than 30 degrees Fahrenheit. As tropical plants, peperomia plants prefer a warm and steamy environment, especially in the summer months when their growth is most active. If your plant doesn't get an outdoor vacation in the summer, place it on a tray of pebbles and water to increase ambient humidity, or invest in a small-scale humidifier to place nearby. Fertilizer When it comes to fertilizing peperomia plants, less is more. Discolored or dropping leaves are usually a sign of inadequate light or excessive watering, not poor nutrition. As a slow-growing epiphyte, the peperomia can go its entire life without supplemental fertilizer, getting what it needs from its planting media. Types of Peperomia There are hundreds of different varieties of peperomia plants, many of which make exceptional houseplants. Some of the most popular varietals include: Peperomia verticillata 'Belly Button': An eye-catching varietal with a compact form and tiny leaves, somewhat reminiscent of the baby tears plant Peperomia metallica var. Colombiana: A dazzling, tri-colored plant with foliage of bronze, silver, and red Peperomia nitida (cupid peperomia): A varietal that's ideal for hanging baskets, complete with heart-shaped leaves edged in cream P. perciliata: A trailing varietal that has a tight growth habit and produces oval-shaped foliage and red stems Peperomia caperata 'Suzanne': A unique plant with deeply ridged foliage and silver accents Pruning Lightly prune peperomia plants in the early spring to correct any leggy, sparse growth. Pinching back the stems will help maximize the plant's lush appearance by encouraging more branching. Remove the end of each stem and the first set of leaves; you can pinch them off with your fingers or snip them off with hand pruners. Propagating Peperomia Plants Peperomia plants can be propagated at any time, although springtime is when its growth is more active and likely the best time. If you're already planning to prune your plants in the spring, you can take a stem's extra leggy growth and easily propagate from that stem cutting. Here's how: First, you'll need sterile pruning snips or scissors, a small pot, potting soil or orchid mix, plastic wrap, and a brightly lit location. Cut off a leaf including at least an inch of its stem from the mother plant. Place the cutting in a small container filled with potting soil, cut-end down. Place it in a bright spot with a lot of indirect light. Cover with plastic wrap to create a mini-greenhouse environment to help it retain moisture. Water consistently and never let the soil dry out. Roots will form within a few weeks; then, you can transplant your cutting into a larger container once it outgrows its original one. How to Grow Peperomia From Seed To grow peperomia from seed, you'll need a soilless seed starting mix, sufficient water, and a warm, bright sunny spot to germinate peperomia seeds. Keep the soil consistently moist until germination occurs. It can take 15 to 30 days for seedlings to emerge. Transplant the young seedlings into a container with a soil pH of 6.0 to 6.5 (orchid mix works well). Place the plant in a bright spot with indirect sun. Avoid overwatering as the plant grows. Potting and Repotting Peperomia Plants Peperomia plants can live for years in a relatively small container. They enjoy a somewhat root-bound existence, and this, combined with their slow growth rate, means you can leave them alone until you see roots coming out of the drainage holes. If you're moving your seedling from a small, 2-inch container, upgrade to a container that is 2-inches deeper and wider at the brim. Use an acidic potting mix or orchid bark. Container culture is the most popular way to grow peperomia plants. Choose a container that has excellent aeration to foster a healthy root system. An orchid pot with large openings is suitable, provided you use orchid bark that won't fall out of the drainage holes. Terracotta pots are also excellent containers for peperomia because their porous nature keeps soil from becoming too wet if you overwater by mistake. Overwintering Peperomia will turn to mush outdoors if you get freezing temperatures. Bring your peperomia plant inside if you live in a zone that is less than 10 on the hardiness zone map. In the winter, you can significantly reduce the amount of water it gets. Some do not water this plant at all during the winter months. How to Get Peperomia to Bloom Peperomia rarely flower when kept as houseplants, but they occasionally do. Their unscented blooms appear as spindly spikes of brown and greenish-white. They don't look like flowers; you might even think they're offshoots, detracting from the look of the plant. You can cut them at the base of the shoot or leave them to fall off once the flower withers naturally. Its natural bloom time is summer, but if you have lighting and temperatures indoors that mimic summer, it can bloom anytime indoors. Common Pests Peperomia plants are subject to common pests that can affect most houseplants: mealybugs, spider mites, and whiteflies. Insecticidal soap is the easiest treatment for these pests. Common Problems With Peperomia Peperomia is a low-maintenance plant that doesn't need much water. Once you've identified a bright but not direct sun location—and you remember to check the soil every once in a while—this slow-grower is not usually fussy. However, here are some signs that your plant might need some additional care.
Discolored, Droopy Leaves and Rotting Smell Root rot is a disease that is caused by overwatering your plant. You may also notice a rotting smell. Mushy stems are often a sign of a fungal infection. To prevent root rot or fungal disease, make sure that the plant’s soil is completely dry to the touch before you water it. If you catch it quick enough, you can remedy this plant without throwing it all out. Sterilize your pot in a diluted bleach solution. You will need fresh, well-draining soil. Pull out the infected plant from the pot, and cut away any rotting, black or dark brown, mushy roots. Wash the remaining healthy roots. Lay the plant out and allow the roots to dry for a few hours. Then, repot it in the clean pot with fresh soil. Leaves Curling or Yellowing In most cases, when peperomia leaves turn yellow or start curling, it means it's getting too much water. Remove the yellowed leaves. You can remove the plant from the pot and add some rocks to the bottom layer of the pot to improve drainage. This prevents the bottom of the roots from sitting in standing water. Deformed Leaves Ring spot is caused by the cucumber mosaic virus and is diagnosed when you see deformed leaves. It is often the cause of the plant being overwatered. Pull off the deformed leaves, and the plant should grow back healthy. To prevent this disease from reoccurring, make sure you water the plant only when the soil is dry. Wilting If you notice that your plant seems to be wilting, then it is probably not getting enough air to its roots. Repot the plant and use more gravel into the potting soil. Moldy Soil Overwatering causes whitish mold to grow on the surface of the soil. To prevent this condition, only water when the soil is dry. To fix it, remove the top layer of soil and replace it. Or, if the mold appears to go down deep, wash the pot and completely replace the soil with a sterile mix. Leaf Drop If your peperomia is losing its leaves and you're not overwatering the plant, then try to move it to a spot with a little more bright light. Do not put it in direct sun, but you can relocate the plant near a window with direct light.
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Miss Chen
2021年09月10日
Miss Chen
Is there a more welcome sight in spring than an azalea shrub in full bloom? These shade-loving plants can bring delightful color to all corners of the spring garden. Heirloom varieties can grow as high as twelve feet tall, with spectacular displays in spring. The range of colors is spectacular, from white to pale pink to a range of reds and purples. Most azaleas bloom in mid-spring (mid to late April), but some bloom earlier or later than others, and it's easy to choose a variety for your design needs. Like their larger cousins, the Rhododendron ferrugineum, the azalea's thick leaves can remain evergreen, though most varieties grown in the United States are deciduous. In the garden industry, the names "azalea" and "rhododendron" are often used interchangeably, which can become confusing. One way to tell them apart at first glance is the size and shape of the blooms: traditional rhododendrons have large round clusters of flowers, whereas azalea blooms are more evenly distributed on the entire shrub. Rhododendron leaves are also larger, fleshier and darker green than azalea leaves. There are numerous cultivars, so do a bit of research before you buy to make sure you get the plant best suited for your needs. For example, some varieties are more cold hardy than others. There are also now many azalea-rhododendron hybrids, which makes for very hardy plants that are a more manageable size and that have a wide range of flower colors. Botanical Name Rhododendron Common Name Azalea Plant Type Deciduous or evergreen shrub Mature Size 3' to 12' Soil Type Acidic Soil pH 5.5 to 6.0 Bloom Time Early to late spring Flower Color White, pink, red, orange Hardiness Zones 3 to 9 (3 to 7, 5 to 9) Native Areas Asia, Europe, North America How to Grow Azaleas Proper planting is key to success with these long-lived shrubs. Amending the soil will probably be necessary to ensure it gets a good start: have some peat moss and compost on hand to mix in with some good soil. Water in when planting and water daily for the first week until established. Light Azaleas flourish in shady spots, though they like a bit of sun: a few hours of morning sun is best, so the flowers don't wilt if a spring day becomes too hot. Most azaleas stay in bloom for about two weeks, barring rain or wind damage from a storm. Soil Azaleas love acidic soil; this explains why potted nursery plants usually have mostly peat moss for the planting medium. Soil should also have good drainage and good fertility with plenty of organic matter (compost, chopped leaves, etc.) and azaleas do best with a natural mulch such as pine bark mulch. Water Azaleas need water to bloom, and spring rain showers usually do the job. However, if the spring is dry, extra watering can be beneficial. Temperature and Humidity Azalea hardiness ranges between 3 and 9, with most of them having a narrower range at one end or the other (3 to 7 or 5 to 9). With ranges this narrow it's important the choose your plant and your planting site carefully. Too cold, and buds may not form; too hot, and flowers may burn from over exposure. Mildew can be a problem with azaleas; make sure they have plenty of air circulation and don't plant them too close to other large shrubs. Garden Design Suggestions Azaleas look great planted beneath trees or at the back of a border. They can make a great specimen planting in a prominent place by an entrance or patio also. Since the flowers are so showy, ideally you want your azaleas to bloom when your garden needs a boost of spring color. Maybe after your early blooming daffodils are fading, and before the peonies light up? You could also coordinate tulip plantings for striking color combinations. Consider orange tulips (like April-blooming "Orange Emperor" tulips) with pink azaleas, or purple tulips (like "Passionale" or "Negrita") with white or red azaleas. Having more than one variety of azalea with overlapping spring bloom times is an ideal scenario. There are some reblooming cultivars (the "Encore" series) that will give you blooms from spring through late summer. Varieties to Choose One can't flip through a garden catalog without seeing a new variety of azalea.Here are some tried and true ones, including newer hybrids. "Rosy Lights" : This compact (4' to 6') deciduous cold hardy (USDA 3 to 7) shrub blooms in late spring and features a sprightly flower in a rosy red color with hues of coral and blush. This is one of the "Northern Lights" azalea-rhododendron hybrids. The flowers are borne in "trusses" - not as round as traditional rhododendrons but not as diffused as traditional azaleas. "Windbeam" : With smaller leaves and a tidy habit (3' to 4'), this popular cultivar features luminous pale pink flowers and olive green leaves that turn bronze in autumn. Hardy in Zones 4 to 8, it may need shelter from harsh winter winds, but it is more sun and heat tolerant than other azaleas. The spring display is stunning, beginning white and evolving to pink with tiny red freckles on the dorsal lobes. "Golden Lights" : The bright golden-orange blooms on this "Northern Lights" cultivar offer a dramatic color for the spring landscape. Cold hardy (USDA 3 to 7) and compact (3' to 6'), the flower trusses are flat and contain ten flowers each, in shades ranging from butter yellow to orange with salmon pink highlights. "Fragrant Star" : The pure white flowers on this small (3' to 4') mid-spring bloomer have a heady, spicy fragrance. The leaves are a pleasing bluish green. It is quite heat tolerant but not as cold hardy as others (USDA 5 to 9), though can withstand cold temperatures as low as -20F, if sheltered from harsh winds. "Gibraltar" : This popular azalea boasts frilly, faintly fragrant, bright orange flowers that emerge from crimson buds. It is medium height (4' to 5') and relatively cold hardy (USDA 5 to 8). This variety is also very mildew resistant. Care and Maintenance Azaleas benefit from mild pruning. They start forming buds in summer, so the best time to prune is right after the flowers drop off in late spring. Azaleas also do well if given some fertilizer. Without knowing the nutrients in your soil, a basic 15-15-15 fertilizer containing equal parts nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium is your best bet. But there are special products made just for azaleas: Espoma's "Azalea-Tone" is a good one. Fertilize in late winter or early spring, no later than the last week of March.
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Miss Chen
2021年09月08日
Miss Chen
Growing avocados outdoors as productive fruit trees can be tricky, but growing them as houseplants is fun and easy, resulting in a seedling that will eventually turn into an attractive little specimen with glossy, oval leaves 4 to 8 inches long. True, it's unlikely your tree will ever bear fruit (unless you give it about 10 years), and even if it does, the fruit from the offspring most likely won't resemble the original. But as an indoor plant, an avocado has plenty of merit as a decorative novelty. Keep in mind that all parts of the avocado plant are toxic to animals.1 Common Name Avocado Botanical Name Persea americana Family Lauraceae Plant Type Broadleaf evergreen fruit tree Mature Size 30 to 60 ft. in the landscape; potted plants can be pruned to remain small Sun Exposure Full sun Soil Type General-purpose potting soil Soil pH 6.0 to 6.5, tolerates acidic or alkaline soil Bloom Time Seasonal bloomer Flower Color Greenish-yellow Hardiness Zones 10-12 (USDA), any zone as a houseplant Native Area Mexico Toxicity Toxic to dogs, birds, and horses Avocado Plant Care When avocado is grown as a houseplant, it is often grown from seed (the fruit pits) that can be sprouted in water or directly in potting soil. Established plants will do best in sunny windows. Fertilize them regularly in spring and summer with a balanced granular fertilizer. Avocados grown indoors are mostly novelty plants. If you want it to bear fruit and turn into the tree it really is, you'll have to move your avocado outside, but this may only work if you live in a warmer climate. Light Like banana trees, avocado plants thrive in full sun. They will tolerate some shade, but potted indoor plants generally need the brightest spot you can find. If you're starting from a seed, the seed can be kept on a bright windowsill until roots form, and the first leaves emerge. Water Avocado plants should be kept continuously moist, but adequate drainage is essential. Watch for leaf yellowing, which is a sign of too much water. Temperature Avocado plants prefer warm growing seasons, but can take winter temperatures down to 50 degrees Fahrenheit, when growth will slow. Soil A rich, fast-draining potting soil mix is ideal. Fertilizer Fertilize abundantly during the growing season with a balanced fertilizer. Types of Avocado Plants Although there are about 1,000 varieties of avocado, the one most likely to find its way into your home is the Haas avocado, which is grown in tremendous quantities in California and throughout Latin America. These are small, pebbly avocados with high-fat content and delicious flesh. Larger, lighter green Florida avocados are also found in season. These have less fat and are sometimes marketed as health-conscious avocados. You'll find plenty of healthy pits inside any of these types of avocados that you can use to grow your plants. Pruning The first serious trimming should occur when the plant is only 12 inches tall. At that time, cut it back to 6 inches and allow for new leaves and stems to form. As it gets taller, pinch off new growth throughout the summer to force new branches to form, because avocado fruit develops on new growth. Keeping the new growth pinched off will also keep the plant bushy while controlling its size. Propagating Avocado Plants Avocado can be propagated in a number of ways., but is usually done for avocado trees planted in the landscape. Professionals graft desirable avocado varieties onto disease-resistant root-stock to produce a disease-resistant tree with the desired kind of fruit or preferred size. They can also be propagated by air-layering: Encouraging roots to grow by scarring a tree branch, wrapping the wounded area with a small amount of rooting medium, and allowing a bundle of roots to develop while the branch is still on the tree. Once a network of roots are developed, the branch is snipped off and planted in soil. How to Grow Avocado Plants From Seed For houseplants, propagate an avocado plant with the seed of the fruit. The seed of an avocado is the large brown pit. Here's how to grow your avocado houseplant: To sprout an avocado seed, insert three toothpicks into the seed and suspend it with the broad end down over a glass of water. Cover about an inch of the seed with water. Keep it in a warm place, but not in direct sunlight. The seed should sprout in two to six weeks. Let the young plant grow to six inches, then cut it back to three inches to encourage stronger root growth. When the roots have grown thick and the stem has new leaves again, plant in soil in a pot about 10 inches in diameter, leaving half the seed still exposed above the soil. Make sure the pot has a drainage hole. Potting and Repotting Avocado Plants Repot your avocado every spring when the plant begins to grow again. For the first few years, trimming your avocado is necessary to encourage a bushy plant. You can place the avocado outside during summer, and bring it inside before first frost. Overwintering Bring your plants inside if it's going to be below 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Winter's lack of humidity may cause your plant to lose leaves, but they will come back when the weather is warm. Common Pests & Plant Diseases Look for symptoms like leaf yellowing, which can indicate too much water or sluggish drainage. They may develop root rot in overly wet potting soil. Also, keep an eye out for a white crust on the soil, this means an excess of salt build-up from the fertilizer. Flush the pot regularly.2 When grown outdoors, avocado trees are threatened by laurel wilt, caused by the Raffaelea lauricola fungus. It is transmitted by several different species of ambrosia beetle. Infected trees usually succumb within 4 to 8 weeks.
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Miss Chen
2021年09月06日
Miss Chen
Autumn Sage (Salvia greggii) is a native perennial shrub that blooms prolifically from mid-summer to mid-fall. During this time it will be attracting bees, birds, and butterflies. Hummingbirds are especially drawn to the flowers' typical red color. This hummingbird magnet is a bushy shrub. The two-lipped flowers are usually red, though some offer shades of purple, pink, yellow, white, or violet. They bloom in whirls atop foliage that smells of mint and the small, downy green leaves are each about two inches long. A versatile and lasting perennial, sometimes flowering starts with the autumn sage as early as spring and continues until the first frost. While flowering may decrease in the heat of summer, it will pick back up again in the fall. Growing rapidly up to two to three feet tall and wide, this species mingles well in wildflower gardens or in conventional floral landscapes. Botanical Name Salvia greggii Common Name Autumn Sage, Cherry Sage, Gregg Salvia Plant Type Native perennial flowering shrub Mature Size 3 ft. tall, 3 ft. wide Sun Exposure Full sun Soil Type Moist; well-draining; chalk, loam, or sand Soil pH Neutral Bloom Time Mid-summer to mid-fall Flower Color Pink, Rose/Mauve, Red, Yellow, White/Near White, Violet Hardiness Zones 6-9, USDA Native Area Mexico; North America (Southwest, specifically southern Texas and New Mexico) Autumn Sage Care Plant this small flowering shrub in a perennial border or as a low hedge. Welcome to beds, patios, and containers in a city or courtyard garden, a coastal garden, a gravel and rock garden, or among a more informal setting of a cottage-style flower patch. Dig a hole twice as wide and deep as the root ball of the purchased or propagated plant. Set it in the hole and gently place soil into the hole. Light Select a site with full sun. Autumn Sage can benefit from a sheltered position, though, generally, it needs a lot of light. Soil Give the plant moderately fertile, well-drained soil. Water Water regularly after planting. Once established, plants require only average watering. Do not overwater; rainfall is usually enough. Like most types of salvia, Autumn Sage does not do well with excess moisture. If the ground does not meet this need, consider planting in a container or in a xeriscape landscape. Temperature & Humidity Native to southern Texas, New Mexico, and Mexico, this type of salvia is tolerant to heat, humidity, and drought. Autumn Sage is generally hardy to about 15 degrees Fahrenheit (-9 Celsius). Any lower temperatures may cause damage or the plants to be completely lost. It can last as an evergreen in warmer climates. Pruning Cut individual stems at their main branch throughout the growing season, and prolong flowering by deadheading. Remove spent blooms at the stem. Gently pinch or pull the flower from its sepal, and toss it in the compost. Only let flowers drop on the soil if you want volunteer plants next season. One way of pruning is shearing. This encourages new woody growth. If done once every two or three growing seasons, you will be rewarded with an exceptionally bushy plant. Prune the shrub in its dormant months, before or after flowering, to prevent overcrowding. Cut off all the branches of the shrub down to its root, as close to the ground as possible. Do this at the end of each growing season, closer to the final flowering, to stimulate new growth. Propagating Autumn Sage Cuttings or transplants will produce a plant truer to its original type, as compared to seeds which may produce differences. In spring or early summer, propagate by basal cuttings or softwood cuttings. In late summer or autumn, propagate by semi-ripe cuttings. The rootball can also be divided into separate plants. Or, allow pods to dry on the plant and break them open to collect and properly clean the seeds. Sow seeds indoors before the last frost and outdoors directly after the last frost. Common Pests/Diseases Keep an eye out for leafhoppers, slugs and snails, and rosemary beetles. Being nearly disease-free and deer resistant, the Autumn Sage plant is overall easy to maintain. Welcome this flowering shrub into your sunny garden and watch the flowers flourish for a long growing season.
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Miss Chen
2021年09月04日
Miss Chen
Clusia is a large genus of trees and shrubs native to tropical America characterized by their branches, which grow horizontally, and their leaves, which are thick and tough. There are about 150 Clusia species, but Clusia rosea, or the autograph tree, is the only one commonly grown. It is notable for its tendency to grow on top of other plants (often strangling them). It is widely considered to be an invasive species. Another unusual quality, this species is part of the only genus of plants capable of absorbing carbon dioxide at night.1 The autograph tree has stiff, dark green or olive-colored leathery leaves that grow to about 8 inches long. The leaves are tough enough that they can be carved into, hence the common name “autograph tree.” It has long flower heads with pink or white flowers that bloom in the summer, followed by small green fruits that ripen to black and eventually split open to reveal bright red seeds. The seeds are very attractive to birds and other fauna. The autograph tree is commonly grown as an indoor plant. Where it is able to survive outdoors—in zones 10 and 11—it can be planted in spring or fall. Botanical Name Clusia rosea Common Name Autograph tree, copey, balsam apple, pitch apple Plant Type Perennial evergreen Mature Size 8 to 10 feet tall and wide (can reach 25 feet tall as a tree) Sun Exposure Full sun Soil Type Sand, clay, loam; well-draining Soil pH Slightly acidic to neutral Bloom Time Summer Flower Color White or pink Hardiness Zones 10 to 11 Native Area Caribbean Toxicity Toxic to humans, toxic to pets
Autograph Tree Care The autograph tree tends to spread out fairly wide as it grows. It should be pruned about once a year, in early spring, to keep it nicely formed. Fertilization will help it grow fully. The plant makes an excellent hedge because of its dense growth habit and its minimal maintenance needs. Alternatively, if you grow it tall as a tree, you can underplant things close to its base. The autograph tree is salt-tolerant and can be grown in exposed positions near the ocean. Grown as a houseplant, the autograph tree needs warmth, humidity, and a moderate amount of sunlight daily. A room with a south- or west-facing window is ideal for giving it a few hours of bright sun plus some indirect light and some shade. Light Full sun is best, but this plant can tolerate partial shade as well. When it is grown indoors as a houseplant, it will cope with medium light levels and some degree of shade. Soil A sandy, soft, loose, well-draining soil is best. It should be fertile and rich in organic matter. When growing in pots, blend the potting mix with a small amount of growing medium for orchids. Water The autograph tree should be watered regularly for the first year or so until the plant is fully established. You can scale back its water after that, although regular watering will help it grow more fully. This species is fairly drought-tolerant, but you should never let the soil get completely dry. Autograph tree houseplants typically need water once a week in summer and three times per month in winter. Temperature and Humidity This plant can be kept outside only in tropical areas, as will not tolerate temperatures below 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Indoors, it prefers temperatures between 60 and 85. It also prefers high humidity. If you have an indoor container plant, you can place it on a shallow gravel tray filled with water and mist regularly. Fertilizer Fertilize three times per year in the spring, summer, and fall. Use organic, granular fertilizer. Or, you can fertilize more frequently but must use an evenly balanced diluted liquid fertilizer. Potting and Repotting Due to its quick growth, C. rosea can often overgrow its container. To repot, lift out the root ball as a whole and move to a larger container that can accommodate the root system. As the plant matures, it may become too large to be kept in containers at all unless it is well-pruned. If the climate is suitable, large plants can be replanted outdoors.
Propagating the Autograph Tree C. rosea is a hemiepiphyte. It begins its life as an epiphyte—a plant that grows on another tree or structure without being parasitic—and grows toward the ground until it eventually plants itself in the soil. Over time, it overgrows and eventually suffocates its host. This growth pattern is what has made the autograph tree a dangerous invasive species in several tropical areas. The tree can propagate fairly easily by seed or by cuttings. To propagate by cuttings, simply sever the stems and replant in the warm, wet soil to allow them to root. This is a fast-growing and hardy plant that is quite easy to propagate, especially in containers.
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Miss Chen
2021年09月02日
Miss Chen
Contrary to its name, the Australian tree fern is actually more tree than fern. Typically, when we think of ferns, we picture plants such as painted ferns (Athyrium niponicum), which achieve a mature height of just 18 inches. But in its native habitat of Australia, it can grow up to 25 feet or more. This tropical plant is easily too large for most indoor growing situations except for large greenhouses. Still, if your space and environment allow, it can be a beautiful addition to your landscape. Characterized by lacy, feathery fronds, and a hair-like, scale-covered trunk, the fast-growing Australian tree fern can bring an exotic touch to any garden. It's best planted in the early spring and prefers warm temperatures and plentiful sunlight year-round. Botanical Name Cyathea cooperi (also known by sphaeropteris cooperi) Common Name Australian tree fern, Cooper's tree fern, lacy tree fern, scaly tree fern Plant Type Evergreen fern Mature Size 15–25 ft. tall, 10–12 ft. wide Sun Exposure Partial shade, full shade Soil Type Moist but well-drained Soil pH Neutral to acidic Bloom Time Non-flowering Flower Color Non-flowering Hardiness Zones 9–11 (USDA) Native Area Australia Australian Tree Fern Care Australian tree ferns thrive in mid-elevation tropical environments, where they can sometimes be found growing in great, prehistoric forests swathed in tepid mist. The key to growing a healthy Australian tree fern is to provide it with ample humidity and consistency. Additionally, these plants are tolerant of salty winds near coastlines, but not salty soil conditions. The trunk of the Australian tree fern starts out as a low, wide clump and spreads as much as six feet in a year before growing upward into a single slender trunk covered in glossy, ginger-brown hairs. The fronds are broad, bright green with triangular lacy leaves; they do not change color in the fall, and there are no flowers or fruit. The Australian tree fern is one of the most commonly-used tree ferns in the tropics, but unless you live in Australia or a similar region, you may have to go out of your way to get an Australian tree fern. They're mostly grown as large, potted ornamentals in the United States and, when they are grown outdoors, are found mainly in public gardens and arboretums in tropical or semi-tropical zones. The plant has also naturalized itself in Hawaii, where it's regarded as invasive due to its fast growth and prolific self-propagation. Light Although Australian tree ferns are shade-loving plants in general, they can also thrive in partial sun or full sun locations where they get over six hours of light a day. Keep in mind, the more direct light the plant receives, the more likely it is that you'll need to increase your watering cadence. Soil Australian tree ferns can tolerate a variety of soil conditions including sand, loam, and clay. That being said, they will thrive best in a moist, loamy mixture that is rich but well-draining with a neutral to acidic pH level. It's also recommended that you add a layer of mulch around the tree, which will add more nutrients to the soil and act as a barrier to seal in moisture (particularly during very hot weather). Water Keep the soil moist at all times. Australian tree ferns are not drought-tolerant and need weekly watering, with especially high levels of moisture or humidity in dry weather. Avoid watering the crown directly as this can cause rot—instead, water the trunk and ensure it's consistently moist. Temperature and Humidity Australian tree ferns like a consistently warm and humid environment, with temperatures ranging from 65 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Australian tree ferns do not acclimate well to rapid changes in humidity or temperature, which can result in browning fronds. In colder areas, you can grow the fern in a container, giving you the flexibility to move it indoors for the fall and winter once temperatures drop too low. Fertilizer During the growing season, feed your Australian tree fern with controlled-release fertilizer monthly, or biweekly with weak liquid fertilizer. Larger specimens are heavier feeders and may require feeding every other week year-round. Varieties of Australian Tree Ferns There are about 1,000 different kinds of tree ferns, all found in tropical or subtropical settings. The New Zealand or Tasmanian tree fern is closely related, but the species is actually Dicksonia antarctica, and it tends to have a narrower crown than the Australian tree fern (but has similar growth requirements). Potting and Repotting Australian Tree Ferns An Australian tree fern will grow rapidly, so make sure you plant it somewhere in your landscape where it has room to grow and expand. If you're growing your tree fern in a container, replant it annually into a larger pot (with fresh soil). When the plant reaches the maximum size allowed by the growing space, stop repotting to slow growth. Eventually, it will likely outgrow both the pot and the room. Common Pests and Diseases While the Australian tree fern doesn't have any major issues with diseases or pests, it can be hit by the occasional bought of mites or mealybugs. Try first removing the infestation with strong sprays of water; if that doesn't work, treat the plant with neem oil or an insecticide until all signs of infestation have gone.
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Miss Chen
2021年08月31日
Miss Chen
Aubrieta, a cheerful ground cover, is a great candidate for edging your paths or tucking into stone walls if your site meets some basic growing requirements. When the profuse magenta flowers have faded, the grayish-green foliage maintains a handsome mat that covers bare areas under leggy roses or between paving stones on a garden path. These plants are far more common in Europe than in North America. The genus name derives from Claude Aubriet, a European landscape artist from the 17th century. Botanical Name Aubrieta spp. Common Name Aubrieta, false rock cress Plant Type Herbaceous perennial Mature Size 4 to 6 inches tall; 12-to 24-inch spread Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade Soil Type Lean, rocky soil Soil pH 6.5 to 7.5 (slightly acidic to alkaline) Bloom Time April, May Flower Color Pink, purple, white Hardiness Zones 4 to 9 (USDA) Native Area Rocky regions of southwestern Europe How to Grow Aubrieta Aubrieta thrives best when planted in well-draining, alkaline soil in a full sun location. In midsummer, the foliage tends to die back and will benefit from a hard shearing. As a member of the mustard family, this is a tough plant that requires little care. Once established, it has a good tolerance for drought, and it resists nibbling by deer.
Aubrieta is rarely bothered by insect pests. Plants growing in damp, shady areas may experience downy mildew.1 Prevent this fungal disease by providing enough light and spacing for air circulation. Light Aubrieta plants shine in full sun, but will also grow in part shade. For best results, grow plants where they will receive at least a half-day of sun. Plants that grow in too much shade will lose their compact, mounded appearance, take on a leggy look, and have sparse flowers. Soil Aubrietas like a rocky, alkaline soil, which mimics the soil found in their native alpine habitats. If the pH is low, increase it with the addition of lime. Good drainage is important to prevent root rot.2 Use gravel, vermiculite, or another non-organic soil amendment that will help drainage without lowering soil pH. Water Aubrieta plants need a moderate amount of water, but they don't like wet feet. Rocky soils that prevent standing water will keep healthy root systems on your aubrieta plants. Temperature and Humidity Aubrieta plants grow best in areas with cool summers that mirror their alpine climate. Periods of high humidity are fine; in fact, the cool, damp climate of Great Britain or Washington state is where you are most likely to find extraordinary specimens of aubrieta plants. Fertilizer Aubrietas grow in lean soil and need no supplemental fertilizer to make beautiful blooms. At most, occasional watering with compost tea is all the feeding aubrieta plants need. Being Grown in Containers Aubrieta complements the container garden as a trailing plant, softening container edges. Plant it as a companion to other rock garden flowers with similar growing needs, like dianthus. Potting and Repotting Pot up your aubrieta plants with a lightweight all-purpose potting soil. A potting mix meant for cacti is also appropriate for aubrieta plants. Take care not to bury the foliage when potting up aubrieta. There are a few inches of brown stem beneath the foliage, and this is the working area of the plant when repotting. Lift the foliage, and carefully mound soil around the stems and roots to secure the plant in its place. Pruning Aubrieta can get a bit scraggly after blooming. Keep it tidy by trimming plants back after flowering. Use shears, and trim no more than half the plant's growth at any one time. Propagating Aubrieta You can divide aubrieta in early fall to increase your stock. Dig the plant, and tease the clump apart with your hands or a garden fork. Replant the divisions 12 inches apart. Growing From Seeds Aubrieta can be hard to find as nursery plants, so it is often grown from seed. Sow aubrieta seeds on top of sterile potting mix. The seeds need light for germination, so press seeds down but don't cover them. Keep seeds moist at about 68 degrees Fahrenheit. Germination will occur in two to three weeks.
Varieties of Aubrieta 'Rokey's Purple' is among the most commonly seen aubrieta in gardens; it features bright violet flowers. 'Doctor Mules Variegated' aubrieta offers a completely different look; it's important to know, however, that variegated types may revert to green, so prune away any all-green stems that form. 'Snowdrift' is a popular all-white cultivar. Aubrieta vs. Creeping Phlox The flowers and form of aubrieta and creeping phlox (Phlox subulata) are so similar as to be indistinguishable at first glance. Both plants grow as a creeping mat, spreading across the border's edge or trailing down walls. However, creeping phlox plants are more heat- and drought-tolerant than aubrieta, which may account for its preference in American gardens. Landscape Uses Spring-blooming aubrieta makes a perfect pocket plant for garden walls and rock gardens. The plants have a very small footprint and can establish a deep root system in the soil behind a retaining wall, while foliage and flowers can spread up to 18 inches or more, giving the appearance of a living wall. Aubrieta plants also provide good erosion control on hillsides and attract butterflies with their prolific spring flowers.
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