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Miss Chen
2022年01月14日
Miss Chen
Native to the North American grasslands, the silene plant is renowned for its colorful early summer blossoms. Most often referred to as the catchfly, the plant typically blooms in shades of pink, magenta, white, and red. The plant's sticky leaves and stems (which are what give this flower its memorable "catchfly" moniker) are actually not strong enough to catch a fly, nor do these flowers attract the pesky insects. They are, however, a favorite amongst hummingbirds and butterflies, so silene makes a perfect addition to either container plantings or pollinator gardens, which will offer a medium green foliage for many months after the plant first blooms. Though the plant often grows as an annual in both meadow and prairie settings, there are some silene varieties with strong perennial tendencies, so they'll reliably pop up in the same spot each spring. These varieties will self-seed readily. The silene's foliage makes its grand debut in early spring and continues to persist through the late summer, however be aware that some varieties may go completely dormant in the heat of summer. An ideal plant for any landscape, silene has a natural ability to withstand dry conditions. It does have a preference for the sun, and makes a great addition to rock gardens, curbside planting areas, and other full-sun garden beds. Try planting silene with options like aster, bee balm, cosmos, alyssum, and calendula for a truly stunning colorful flower display that lasts from the first days of summer all the way through fall. You may find silene plants listed by one of their other common names, which include Campion, Catchfly, Weed Silene, Fire Pink, Maiden's Tears, Rose of Heaven, Wild Pink, and None-So-Pretty.
Botanical Name Silene Common Name Campion, Catchfly, Weed Silene, Fire Pink Plant Type Perennial (sometimes annual) Mature Size Three-quarters of an inch to 4 feet tall, depending on variety Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade, depending on variety Soil Type Neutral to acidic, rich in humus Soil pH 5-7 Bloom Time Spring and Summer Flower Color Red, white, pink, sometimes blue Hardiness Zones 5-8 Native Area North American grasslands How to Grow Silene Plants The great news is that not only are these plants beautiful, but silene is also easy and economical to start from a seed planted in the garden in the springtime (as well as from transplants that were purchased at your local garden center). They're relatively easy to maintain—the requirements for successfully planting silene include good drainage, regular watering, and only occasional feed. After the flowers begin to bloom in the summer, you'll want to allow the flower stalks to stand upright, as it will encourage the plant to self-seed. However, you should plan to replace the perennial in your landscape every couple of years, as their flower production tends to decrease as they age.1 Light Silene grows best in either full sun or partial shade. If planting in Zones 7 and up, be sure to place your silene plants where they will receive some afternoon shade. Soil It's absolutely essential to plant silene in fertile, well-drained soil. Water These plants will suffer (and ultimately die out) in overly wet conditions, so be sure not to subject silene to an abundance of water.2 Ensure that the soil is completely dry in between your regular waterings. Temperature and Humidity This is a plant species that should be sown at the start of spring for summer flowering, or in autumn for spring flowering, as they will struggle to survive in extreme temperatures (as well as through excessive winter moisture).
Fertilizer You can give your silene plants an added boost by incorporating a granulated starter fertilizer (or an all-purpose feed) to encourage blooming. Potting and Repotting You should consider starting the seeds indoors, such as in flats with a high-quality potting soil. Timing is everything—you'll want to plant silene a minimum of eight weeks before the last expected frost, but then allow approximately 15 to 25 days for the seedlings to sprout before either transferring them into your garden or into a larger pot or container. Propagating Silene The propagation for silene can be done with either seeds or cutting. Seeds can be sown outdoors right after they're collected, or you can store, pretreat, and sow them later. Mature plants should be divided in either the late fall or early spring by removing their outer rosettes. Keep in mind that silene is a plant that tends to decline quickly after flowering, so it's usually best to flag the plant.3 Some Varieties of Silene Silene Latifolia (White Campion) Silene Viscaria (Sticky Catchfly) Silene Marmorensis (Marble Mountain Catchfly) Pruning Depending on the variety of silene, pruning will require snipping faded blooms individually or waiting until the blooming period is over before removing the entire flower stalk. The pruning process will help keep your silene plant's energy focused on growth as opposed to seed production.
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Miss Chen
2022年01月13日
Miss Chen
The camellia is a flowering shrub cultivated for more than 1,000 years and is the southern U.S. answer to the peony. Similarities between peonies and camellias include lushly petaled blooms and a tendency to live for more than a century. They live so long because they grow slowly. Camellias are part of the Theaceae or tea plant family, including the most common ornamental species, C. japonica and C. sasanqua. Camellia sinensis yields flowers that produce tea, but it is not as ornamental. They can be planted anytime except for the hottest summer months. Camellias are evergreens with dark, glossy leaves. Flowers may be white, pink, red, or streaked, and blooms can be single or double. It is popularly used in shrub borders, backgrounds, and loose hedges. Camellia can be used as an espalier specimen—training the shrub to grow flat against a fence or wall. Camellias stand for faithfulness and longevity in the language of flowers and are a lush addition to winter wedding floral arrangements. Although the plant is an indigenous species in the Philippines, the flower became commonly named for Moravian Jesuit priest Brother Josef Kamel, a botanist, pharmacist, and missionary who classified plants in the Philippines. Botanical Name Camellia spp. Common Names Camellia Plant Type Broadleaf evergreen shrub Mature Size 2 to 12 feet (depending on variety) Sun Exposure Part shade Soil Type Moist, rich soil Soil pH 5.5 to 6.5 (acidic) Bloom Time Late fall, winter, and early spring Flower Color White, pink, red, yellow, or lavender Hardiness Zones 7 to 9 (USDA); a few varieties hardy in zone 6B Native Area Japan, China, Korea Camellia Care Camellias are best planted in rich, moist soil in a part-shade location. If planting multiple camellia shrubs, space them at least 5 feet apart. They do not like to compete for water and nutrients with trees in close proximity. Know the mature size of your camellia, and plan accordingly if planting close to a window or home foundation. You do not need to amend the backfill soil at planting time, instead, rake compost or well-rotted manure into the top few inches of the soil. If your camellia develops yellow leaves, inspect the undersides of leaves for tea scale, an insect pest that feeds on leaf juices. Although the leaves will appear yellow on top, the undersides will look white or fuzzy. Treat tea scale with horticultural oil. An iron deficiency can also cause yellow leaves. Test your soil, and feed your camellias with an iron supplement if needed. Light Camellias thrive in part shade. Camellia sasanqua cultivars can take more sun than japonica types. Soil Camellias require well-drained soil, and an ideal soil pH for camellias is within the 6.0 to 6.5 range. If your soil is dense clay and doesn't drain well, use containers instead. Choose at least an 18-inch container and a rich, loamy potting soil. Water Water camellias so that they are consistently moist. Dry periods that occur during bud development result in fewer flowers with a lower petal count. Drought-stressed plants also open the door to spider mite infestation. Apply a 3-inch layer of mulch to moderate soil temperatures, retain soil moisture, and stifle weeds. Temperature and Humidity Camellias are reliably hardy in USDA zones 7 to 9, although the fall-blooming ‘Winter’ series and spring-blooming ‘April’ series of camellias are hardy in zone 6B. Gardeners in cold climates can increase the chances of their camellias surviving the winter by carefully selecting their permanent site in the landscape. A northern-facing planting has an advantage over a warmer southern area. Southern locations may cause the plant to break dormancy too early, resulting in the loss of flowers to frost damage. A north-facing site combined with a building, hedge, or fence that acts as a windbreak will give cold climate gardeners the best success rate. Fertilizer Proper fertilization is essential for a large flower count. Apply a potassium-rich fertilizer in July to facilitate petal development. Apply a slow-release nitrogen fertilizer in the spring to keep foliage dark green and lush. You can also shop for fertilizers designed explicitly for camellias or even an azalea fertilizer. Camellia Varieties 'April Dawn': Hardy in zone 6; the white flowers are streaked with pink 'Elfin Rose': Pale pink blooms that appear in October and November 'Fragrant Pink': Small pink flower clusters with a sweet fragrance that is especially obvious on warm winter days 'Francis Eugene Phillips': Highly sought after for ornamental fringed foliage and its ruffled pink flowers 'Yuletide': Features red blooms on a compact, four-foot-tall shrub Pruning should be kept at a minimum with camellias, as it can ruin the shrub's natural shape. Prune camellias after flowering to keep the interior of the shrubs free of dead and non-blooming branches. Remove any branches that droop on the ground. Propagating Camellias Camellias can be propagated by seeds, but it can take quite a long time to grow mature plants. It's more common to propagate by layering. In summer, bend a long stem down to the ground and make an angled nick in it. Loop the stem into the soil, so the wounded area is buried in the ground, and use a rock or stiff wire to hold it in place in the soil. Over the course of a full growing season, a good network of roots should develop from the wound in the buried stem. At this point, you can clip it away from the parent plant and dig up the offspring to move elsewhere.
How to Grow Camellia From Seed Camellias do not come true from seed, at least, very rarely. Camellia seeds ripen at different times depending on variety and location, but it's usually in the early fall. When seeds are mature, the pod begins to crack slightly and seeds are ready to be picked. If you have seeds, soak the seed for 12 hours or carefully crack the hard coat to aid in germination. Plant in good soil, peat moss, or a combination of peat moss and sand. Keep the soil damp. Seeds usually germinate in one month if planted immediately after harvesting. Some seeds may not germinate until spring. Better germination will occur when seeds are planted immediately upon ripening. Potting or Repotting Camellias Once the seeds have germinated, transplant into containers or outside. Cut off the taproot to produce a more fibrous root system. This step is helpful if planting in a container. If planting in a landscape, the taproot will help the plant survive during periods of drought or severe cold. Overwintering Camellia is an evergreen shrub that blooms in the winter in the South, where the winters are mild. If you have camellia in a container and you live in cooler climates, ensure that the soil and root systems are protected from freezing solid. Dry leaves and pine straw can be used as an excellent source of insulation; mound them around and over the top, fully covering the container and soil. If you live in a colder climate, such as zone 7 or lower, keep the pot covered until spring. If you expect extreme cold or a prolonged cold snap, protect the plant by creating a burlap or canvas fence around it. Fill the space with leaves.
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Miss Chen
2022年01月09日
Miss Chen
This tree was named for Joseph-Marie Callery, who first sent specimens from China to Europe in the 1800s. The Callery pear was introduced to the US in the mid 1900s and later in the 1960s, was promoted as a desirable tree for planting due to being inexpensive and fast-growing. While not a true pear tree in the sense of producing edible fruits (like a common pear tree), the Callery pear (Prunus calleryana) does produce small fruits in autumn. It also has glossy green leaves that turn multiple colors in the fall, including shades of yellow, gold, orange, pink, red and brown, making it a perfect accent tree for seasonal color. If there is an early frost, however, the tree may drop its leaves before they turn color. The Callery pear is native to Vietnam, Korea and China, and is in the Rosaceae family. The common cultivar is "Bradford" which was commonly planted in the United States as an urban landscape tree, but is these days regarded as an undesirable and even invasive species. The Callery pear is very resistant to disease, and generally sturdy, but the "Bradford" cultivar is susceptible to damage from stormy weather. This is due in part to their rapid rate of growth, which was also one of the characteristics that made them a desirable urban tree, until their various problems became evident. This includes spring blossoms that give off a faint but rather unpleasant carrion-like odor; if there is a whole row of these on one street he fragrance in spring can be quite overpowering, and not in a good way. Ironically, their showy and profuse blossoms were one of the qualities mentioned when this tree was being eagerly promoted for widespread planting. One sees many Bradford pear trees that still remain in cities across the United States, but where possible some cities have replaced them with heartier trees that remain healthier and more attractive over time.
However, if you can obtain a different cultivar, this can be a nice inexpensive and easy-to-grow spring-blossoming tree with autumn fruits that, after frost, will soften and attract birds. Other cultivars such as "Autumn Blaze," "Chanticleer," or "White House" may still prove to be somewhat invasive; the seeds are mainly spread via bird droppings after they consume the fruit. Botanical Name Prunus calleryana Common Name Callery pear Plant Type Deciduous tree Mature Size 30 to 50 feet Sun Exposure Full sun Soil Type Moist, well-drained, tolerant of most soils Soil pH Slightly acidic 6.0-7.0 Bloom Time Spring Flower Color White Hardiness Zones 4 to 9 Native Area China, Vietnam Planting the Callery Pear Choosing a site for this tree should allow for its mature height of at least thirty feet tall and twenty feet wide. The canopy tends to grow in a upright narrow shape, and can get quite cluttered unless pruned regularly, so avoid planting near electrical wiring or too close to a structure. It is also susceptible to ice damage, so avoid planting near drainage pipes or other spots, such as next to eaves, roofs or gutters, where water run off could be an issue. Despite having been wildly popular for several decades as an urban landscape specimen, many cities now discourage planting this tree in highly-visible areas. Some orchardists use this tree as grafting stock for edible pear varieties such as Bosc or Comice pears, so it can be an inexpensive option for starting a small pear orchard if you have some grafts of pear trees available.
Soil and Sun The Callery pear is tolerant of most soil conditions, including alkaline or clay soils. Ideally it should have slightly acidic, well-drained soil, but its tolerant nature means it may be planted in difficult areas where other trees are hard to grow. This tree does not tolerate salty soils well, so should not be planted by street or road edges where salt use in winter is common. This tree needs at least six hours of full sun per day to thrive and bear blossoms and fruit. Seedlings may spring up in shadier areas. Water The Callery pear is tolerant of drought, but regular rainfall or watering are best to keep it healthy. Mulching the base can help preserve moisture in a dry season. Pruning and Maintenance Due to its vulnerability to limb loss, couples with its fast growth rate, this tree can sometimes become asymmetrical in form, making it less desirable as a landscape tree. Careful and regular pruning in the first few years after planting can help to control the shape and form of this tree and make it less susceptible to damage or disfigurement from storm or wind damage. The life span of the Callery pear is often less than twenty-five years unless it is cared for in ways that address its particular weaknesses, namely its tendency to grow vertically and without forming well-angled limbs.
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Miss Chen
2022年01月07日
Miss Chen
Calibrachoa, also known as million bells, is one of the most popular plants for growing outdoors in containers. It comes in a rainbow of colors, in solids and two-tones, stripes, patterns, and stunning double blooms. Calibrachoa is a prolific bloomer and produces 1-inch blossoms that resemble tiny petunias. The compact leaves are oval-shaped and a bit sticky. In most growing zones, million bells is best planted or repotted in the spring. It can bloom continuously through the growing season, and its flowers attract butterflies and hummingbirds. It's also a fast grower and quickly reaches toward the ground as a "spiller" when grown as a container plant. Because of its trailing habit, it looks great in hanging baskets, bowls, or mixed containers. Common Name Calibrachoa, million bells, trailing petunia, mini petunia Botanical Name Calibrachoa group Family Solanaceae Plant Type Herbaceous perennial flower often grown as an annual Mature Size 6–12 in. tall, 12–24 in. wide Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade Soil Type Moist, rich, well-drained Soil pH 5.0–6.5 (acidic) Bloom Time Spring to fall Flower Color Coral, yellow, orange, red, pink, blue, purple, burgundy, lavender, cream Hardiness Zones 9–11 (USDA); grown as an annual in all zones Native Area South America Calibrachoa Care Although it is a short-lived perennial in very warm climates, Calibrachoa is grown almost everywhere as an annual. The plant is not hard to care for, but paying attention to its needs will keep it blooming from spring well into fall. While it can be planted in garden beds, the plant fares much better in containers. This is considered a “self-cleaning” plant, meaning it doesn’t need to be deadheaded to keep blooming; however, it will benefit from a serious cutting back toward the end of summer. Deer don't seem very interested in Calibrachoa, although it is not classified as deer-resistant. Light The plant blooms best with at least six hours of full sun, but it can tolerate partial shade—especially in warmer areas, where plants that get some shade are likelier to survive through the summer months. Insufficient sun exposure typically results in reduced blooming. Soil Calibrachoa likes fast-draining potting soil, so make sure your pot has good drainage. When planting in garden beds, amend with organic material to ensure richness, and make sure the soil drains well. Mulch is recommended to keep the soil moist and the root system cool.
Water Calibrachoa needs to be kept well hydrated but not water-logged. Add water only after the top inch or so of the soil dries out. To check if your plant needs water, stick your finger into the soil up to the second knuckle. If the soil feels dry at your fingertip, water deeply until it drains out of the bottom of your pot. Don’t water again until the soil dries out again. Heat, wind, and lack of humidity can cause your soil to dry out quickly. Depending on your conditions, you may have to water as often as twice a day. Check the soil frequently, especially at the beginning of the season, until you get to know your plant's needs; watering requirements may change as the summer heats up. Take care not to overwater the plant, as this can encourage root rot. Temperature and Humidity The plant is pretty drought- and heat-tolerant, and even cold-tolerant, but to get the best blooms, don’t let it dry out repeatedly. It prefers temperatures between 55 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit. A hardened-off plant can be brought outdoors in the spring months and it can tolerate a mild frost. At the other end of the spectrum, hot weather and dryness can be stressful to the plant. You can revive wilted foliage with a daily misting, but be careful not to mist in direct sun, as this can burn the leaves. Fertilizer This plant is a heavy feeder that can be fed with a slow-release fertilizer and/or a diluted liquid fertilizer regularly. For example, you can start with an organic, slow-release fertilizer mixed into your potting medium, and then give the plant a diluted liquid every couple of weeks throughout the season. Feeding is particularly necessary near the end of the season to promote late blooms. Be careful not to over-fertilize—follow the directions on the label of the plant food closely. Leaves turning light green or yellowish is a sign that the plant needs fertilizer, or possibly more sun. Types of Calibrachoa There are 28 different species in the Calibrachoa genus, but those used for garden cultivation are generally complicated hybrids derived from crossing various species. There are dozens of varieties of Calibrachoa available in a vast array of colors, including: Calibrachoa 'Cabaret Hot Pink' produces loads of bright pink flowers on trailing stems up to 8 inches long. C. 'Cabaret Purple Glow' grows 12 inches wide and trails to 8 inches. C. 'Million Bells Terra Cotta' has orange flowers streaked with red and gold on stems trailing to 8 inches. C. 'MiniFamous Double Blue' has double flowers of deep blue-purple on a trailing plant with 10-inch-long stems. C. 'Superbells Pomegranate Punch' has velvety-red flowers that get darker toward the center and grows 8 inches tall. C. 'Kabloom' is a series of hybrid plants that can be grown from seed and they are available in pink, white, red, yellow, and deep blue. Propagating Calibrachoa Calibrachoa plants grown in gardens are hybrids that produce few seeds. And because many of the varieties are trademarked hybrids, vegetative propagation through cuttings is technically illegal. If you do attempt to propagate through cuttings, the process is as follows: Try to find a stem that has small buds but no flowers on it. Using a clean, sharp cutting tool, cut off the stem at least 6 inches from the tip, then remove any lower leaves. Place your cuttings in an equal mix of half potting soil and half peat moss. Water well. Set the pot under bright light, and keep the cuttings moist and warm (about 70 degrees Fahrenheit). Roots should begin to develop within a couple of weeks. Potting and Repotting Calibrachoa Most million bells plants are badly root-bound when you buy them—so much so that there is very little soil left in the pot. This means that your margin of error for watering is very slim and there isn’t much nutrition for the plants to use. If you repot the plant from its original container, be sure to loosen the root ball and add a slow-release fertilizer into a general-purpose potting mix. These are short-lived plants that won't require any more repotting. These spiller plants can live in a container of any material, but make sure there are plenty of drainage holes. Common Pests Calibrachoa plants are extremely susceptible to aphids. Spray aphids off the plant with water, a water and dish detergent mix, or neem oil. Common Problems With Million Bells Besides battling aphids, the most common problem you'll encounter with the otherwise easy-going Calibrachoa plant is yellowing leaves. There are a few reasons for yellowing leaves: Iron deficiency (new growth will yellow) Nitrogen deficiency (old growth will yellow) Root rot Root rot or mold infection can set in if these plants are overwatered. (Plants that wilt after watering may be suffering from root rot.) The best defense is to prevent these issues through good air circulation, proper water management, and good soil porosity.Light The plant blooms best with at least six hours of full sun, but it can tolerate partial shade—especially in warmer areas, where plants that get some shade are likelier to survive through the summer months. Insufficient sun exposure typically results in reduced blooming. Soil Calibrachoa likes fast-draining potting soil, so make sure your pot has good drainage. When planting in garden beds, amend with organic material to ensure richness, and make sure the soil drains well. Mulch is recommended to keep the soil moist and the root system cool. Water Calibrachoa needs to be kept well hydrated but not water-logged. Add water only after the top inch or so of the soil dries out. To check if your plant needs water, stick your finger into the soil up to the second knuckle. If the soil feels dry at your fingertip, water deeply until it drains out of the bottom of your pot. Don’t water again until the soil dries out again. Heat, wind, and lack of humidity can cause your soil to dry out quickly. Depending on your conditions, you may have to water as often as twice a day. Check the soil frequently, especially at the beginning of the season, until you get to know your plant's needs; watering requirements may change as the summer heats up. Take care not to overwater the plant, as this can encourage root rot. Temperature and Humidity The plant is pretty drought- and heat-tolerant, and even cold-tolerant, but to get the best blooms, don’t let it dry out repeatedly. It prefers temperatures between 55 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit. A hardened-off plant can be brought outdoors in the spring months and it can tolerate a mild frost. At the other end of the spectrum, hot weather and dryness can be stressful to the plant. You can revive wilted foliage with a daily misting, but be careful not to mist in direct sun, as this can burn the leaves. Fertilizer This plant is a heavy feeder that can be fed with a slow-release fertilizer and/or a diluted liquid fertilizer regularly. For example, you can start with an organic, slow-release fertilizer mixed into your potting medium, and then give the plant a diluted liquid every couple of weeks throughout the season. Feeding is particularly necessary near the end of the season to promote late blooms. Be careful not to over-fertilize—follow the directions on the label of the plant food closely. Leaves turning light green or yellowish is a sign that the plant needs fertilizer, or possibly more sun. Types of Calibrachoa There are 28 different species in the Calibrachoa genus, but those used for garden cultivation are generally complicated hybrids derived from crossing various species. There are dozens of varieties of Calibrachoa available in a vast array of colors, including: Calibrachoa 'Cabaret Hot Pink' produces loads of bright pink flowers on trailing stems up to 8 inches long. C. 'Cabaret Purple Glow' grows 12 inches wide and trails to 8 inches. C. 'Million Bells Terra Cotta' has orange flowers streaked with red and gold on stems trailing to 8 inches. C. 'MiniFamous Double Blue' has double flowers of deep blue-purple on a trailing plant with 10-inch-long stems. C. 'Superbells Pomegranate Punch' has velvety-red flowers that get darker toward the center and grows 8 inches tall. C. 'Kabloom' is a series of hybrid plants that can be grown from seed and they are available in pink, white, red, yellow, and deep blue. Propagating Calibrachoa Calibrachoa plants grown in gardens are hybrids that produce few seeds. And because many of the varieties are trademarked hybrids, vegetative propagation through cuttings is technically illegal. If you do attempt to propagate through cuttings, the process is as follows:
Try to find a stem that has small buds but no flowers on it. Using a clean, sharp cutting tool, cut off the stem at least 6 inches from the tip, then remove any lower leaves. Place your cuttings in an equal mix of half potting soil and half peat moss. Water well. Set the pot under bright light, and keep the cuttings moist and warm (about 70 degrees Fahrenheit). Roots should begin to develop within a couple of weeks. Potting and Repotting Calibrachoa Most million bells plants are badly root-bound when you buy them—so much so that there is very little soil left in the pot. This means that your margin of error for watering is very slim and there isn’t much nutrition for the plants to use. If you repot the plant from its original container, be sure to loosen the root ball and add a slow-release fertilizer into a general-purpose potting mix. These are short-lived plants that won't require any more repotting. These spiller plants can live in a container of any material, but make sure there are plenty of drainage holes. Common Pests Calibrachoa plants are extremely susceptible to aphids. Spray aphids off the plant with water, a water and dish detergent mix, or neem oil. Common Problems With Million Bells Besides battling aphids, the most common problem you'll encounter with the otherwise easy-going Calibrachoa plant is yellowing leaves. There are a few reasons for yellowing leaves: Iron deficiency (new growth will yellow) Nitrogen deficiency (old growth will yellow) Root rot Root rot or mold infection can set in if these plants are overwatered. (Plants that wilt after watering may be suffering from root rot.) The best defense is to prevent these issues through good air circulation, proper water management, and good soil porosity.
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Miss Chen
2022年01月05日
Miss Chen
Calendula (Calendula officinalis) is a short-lived perennial in warmer climates, but it is usually grown as an annual flower in garden beds and containers. Although commonly known as pot marigold, calendula is different from the common marigold (Tagetes spp.). It is, however, part of the same Asteraceae family, along with daisies and chrysanthemums, and has a daisy-like appearance. It is planted in spring after the last frost and grows relatively quickly, flowering six to eight weeks from seeding. The common name of pot marigold originated from the gold flowers that bloomed during the festivals of the Virgin Mary in Renaissance times (mary + gold = marigold). Traditionally, people often used the flowers in cooking. Today, gardeners grow these plants for their cheery flowers and profuse blooming habit. Though they most commonly are seen in varieties with yellow and orange flowers, you can also find them in subtle shades of pink and cream. Botanical Name Calendula officinalis Common Name Calendula, pot marigold, common marigold Plant Type Herbaceous perennial flower, usually grown as an annual Mature Size 1 to 2 feet tall and wide Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade Soil Type Average, well-drained soil rich in organic material Soil pH Neutral (6.0 to 7.0) Bloom Time May to early fall; will rebloom constantly if old blooms are dead-headed Flower Color Yellow, orange, cream, pink Hardiness Zones Perennial in zones 9 to 11 (USDA) Native Area Unknown Calendula Care Calendula is easy to grow from seeds directly sown in the garden or containers. Plant seeds in early spring and repot or transplant sturdy seedlings after the threat of frost. Calendula will tolerate poor conditions but grows best when it has rich soil. Once established, it doesn't need much water or fertilizer to grow. Calendula is a full sun plant, however, it's not a fan of sweltering hot temperatures and might start wilting in intense heat.
Calendula has no serious insect or disease problems. They can sometimes be susceptible to powdery mildew (remedied by good air circulation), and slugs and snails may feed on them, especially young plants. Keep ground areas clear of debris to minimize slug and snail damage. Aphids and whiteflies can sometimes be a problem; spraying with water or treating with insecticidal soaps can control these pests. Light Calendula generally prefers full sun, but it sometimes languishes during the hottest months unless it receives some afternoon shade in hotter areas. Soil Like most members of the daisy family, calendula needs a well-drained soil high in organic material. Dense, wet soils can cause the roots to rot. This plant tolerates a wide range of soil pH but prefers a slightly acidic to neutral soil. Water Water frequently until the plants are established. Mature plants thrive on only occasional watering. Avoid too much water with these plants. Temperature and Humidity Calendula prefers mild summer temperatures and may die away by the end of summer in very hot climates. Fertilizer Calendula does not need much in the way of feeding. If planted in fertile garden soil, it requires no additional feeding at all. Marginal soils may require feeding with a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer, but over-feeding can make the plants leggy and spindly. Container plants require monthly feeding with a diluted, balanced fertilizer. Calendula Varieties 'Pink Surprise': Ruffled gold and yellow flowers, sometimes with pink edges and dark apricot centers 'Touch of Red': Flowers with a mixture of orange and red shades with red-tipped petals 'Greenheart Orange': Flowers with orange petals surrounding lime-green centers; a very unusual looking plant 'Citrus Cocktail': A compact, short plant with yellow and orange flowers; works well in containers 'Dwarf Gem': A compact variety with double-petal blooms of orange, yellow, and apricot; another good variety for containers Harvesting Calendula Although some people find the taste somewhat bitter, the flowers and leaves of calendula can be used in salads and other recipes, either fresh or dried. Calendula is also a medicinal herb that has been used in topical ointments for cuts and scrapes. Collect calendula flowers in the late morning, after the dew has dried. Pick flowers when they are fully open, and often check because they come and go quickly. To dry the flowers, spread out the cut flower heads on a screen in a dry, shady spot. Turn them occasionally until they are papery dry, then store them in canning jars until ready to use. Pruning Pinching back young plants will promote more compact, bushy growth and prevent the plants from becoming leggy. Then, deadhead the old flowers to encourage reblooming. Propagating Calendula Calendula is very easy to grow from seeds or transplants. You should plant purchased seedlings after the danger of frost has passed; you can sow seeds just before the last frost date in the spring.
How to Grow Calendula From Seed Calendula is a short-lived perennial that is generally propagated from seeds, which easily germinate and sprout. Seeds collected from the flowers can be saved and replanted; the plants will also readily self-seed in the garden. Start calendula seeds indoors in seed starter mix about six to eight weeks before the last frost date. Or, you can sow them directly into the garden just before the last spring frost date. Most plants bloom within two months of seeding. These plants very often self-seed in the garden; don't mistake the seedlings for weeds. Potting and Repotting Calendula Although the "pot" in the common name "pot marigold" refers to this plant's traditional use in cooking, calendula is also commonly planted in pots, where it thrives. Most varieties grow well in containers, particularly shorter cultivars. Use any well-draining, organic potting soil, or make a mixture with a blend of half garden soil and half compost. Make sure the pot has plenty of drainage holes since this plant does not like to be soggy. Potted specimens need regular feeding with a balanced fertilizer. Overwintering Calendula is primarily an annual unless you live in the 9 through 11 hardiness zones. A hard freeze will kill the plants, but if you expect some frost for a day or so, you can protect the plants with a frost blanket overnight and uncover as the sun warms up the air the next day. Three to four inches of mulch will also protect the plants.
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Miss Chen
2022年01月03日
Miss Chen
Calathea are a tropical species that are popular houseplant additions because of the bold markings on their abundant foliage. They are also called peacock, zebra, or rattlesnake plants, referring to their decorative leaves resembling characteristics from those animals. In their native habitat, calathea species are known for their striking inflorescences. But they rarely flower indoors when grown as houseplants. It's best to divide and transplant this species in spring or summer. The variegated foliage of the calathea 'White Fusion' cultivar features a leaf top side with contrasting white markings alongside the green. The underside has a pretty light purple-pinkish hue that runs down the stems. Although their care can be a little more particular than some houseplants, once you get it right, you will be rewarded with an eye-catching display of foliage that grows profusely and quickly. Common Name Calathea 'White Fusion' Botanical Name Calathea lietzei Family Marantaceae Plant Type Herbaceous Perennial Mature Size Up to 2 ft. tall Sun Exposure Partial Soil Type Moist, Well-drained Soil pH Acidic Bloom Time Summer Flower Color Yellow, purple, white Hardiness Zones 11-12, USA Native Area South America Calathea Care Calathea can be rather specific regarding their care requirements, and calathea 'White Fusion' is no exception. These plants like moisture, but not excessive amounts, sun is good, but not too much, and extreme temperatures need to be avoided.
You should regularly wipe down the calathea 'White Fusion' large leaves to remove dust. Removing dust from leaves allows the plant to breathe well. Don't use any leaf shine products; they can cause damage. Don't panic if you see an infrequent, small amount of discoloration or brown tips is to be expected; the foliage on this cultivar is delicate. Light Finding the right light level for your plant is one of the most critical care elements for your calathea 'White Fusion.' The wrong light level may cause poor development of the variegation on the plant. This plant needs filtered bright light. Too much light can cause the markings to fade and leaf curling; too shady a position and the markings won't develop properly in the first place. Soil Mixes recommended for African violets are often well-suited to calathea cultivars like 'White Fusion' as they retain moisture well and drain excess water. You can make a peaty, airy, lightweight potting mix by combining orchard bark, perlite, and standard potting soil. Water The calathea 'White Fusion' prefers to be consistently moist, but soggy and waterlogged conditions are a recipe for disaster. These plants like high humidity, but overly wet soils can lead to root rot and bacterial and fungal issues. Ensure the plant's pot has suitable drainage holes. Water thoroughly, but make sure the water drains out the bottom and does not pool in a collection plate. Once the top inch of soil is dry, this is usually a good indicator that your plant needs more water. In the summer, you'll likely water once a week. Since the plant slows down its growth in the winter, it will require less water, probably only needing water every two weeks. Use the finger test to check the first inch of soil for moisture, but crisping leaves indicate that your plant is overly dry. Many enthusiasts chose to use collected rainwater or distilled water for their calathea since this plant can be sensitive to chemicals in the water. Still, room temperature tap water is fine. Temperature and Humidity Avoid temperature extremes. Tropical species like calathea like humidity in their environment. Although they like warmer temperatures, sweltering heat can be too much for this plant. For example, if you heat your home all day in the winter but stop heating it at night, this sudden change can shock your plant. Also, the drying conditions from heating units can be a problem in decimating humidity levels. If retaining humidity around the plant is a concern, you can sit the plant pot on top of a tray with some pebbles. Any water that drains out and collects in the pebbles will eventually evaporate and increase humidity levels without soaking the plant's roots. Or, you could invest in a humidifier, mainly if you are a collector of various tropical houseplants. Also, keep your calathea 'White Fusion' out of direct drafts but strike a balance by providing decent ventilation. Fertilizer Your calathea 'White Fusion' will appreciate a monthly application of liquid fertilizer during its growth period—spring through fall; stop feeding in the winter. Pick fertilizer designed for houseplants with dense foliage, likely a type that is more nitrogen-rich. The plant will only need a weak dose or half the strength recommended on the fertilizer container. Pruning If your calathea 'White Fusion' has a few leaves that have browned or curled excessively, don't be afraid to cut these off at the stem. Prune any dead, dying, or damaged leaves as soon as you spot them and remove them from the soil. If your plant is healthy and given the care and conditions it needs, new leaves grow and fill in for the dead ones. Deadhead faded blooms. Propagating Calathea 'White Fusion' The best time of year to propagate this plant is during the spring or summer during its period of vigorous growth. It can be propagated by division, leaf node cutting, or sown seeds. Use root division only if the mother plant is healthy. Dividing your plant helps you maintain your plant's size and keep the plant thriving. Once you divide, it will immediately make the plant look less full, but you will have two full-looking plants in time. Here's how to divide your calathea: You'll need a 3-inch pot, well-draining potting soil, a sterilized knife or trowel, and a clean, flat workspace. Several days before you divide your plant, water it thoroughly. Inspect the plant for offsets or new shoots. These are baby plants developed by the mother plant. You can isolate that one shoot, its roots, and replant it. Or, you can take the current mother plant and split it in half. Or, you can do both. The offset should be at least 7 inches tall. To take the plant out of the pot, turn the pot upside down, keep your hand fanned out wide at the base, securing the plant and its root ball in your hand. If you have offsets or pups on your workspace, pull out those separate roots first. If you want to divide your plant in half, take your clean knife or trowel and make a sharp, clean cut through the root system. Ensure that each half has part of the root system and each leaf is attached to a stem. Replant the pup in a smaller container than the mother plant; use a 4- to 6-inch container to start. Place the plant in a bright spot but not directly in the sun. To propagate via leaf note cutting: You'll need a 3-inch pot, well-draining potting soil, sterilized scissors or pruning snips, and a clean, flat workspace. Find a leaf node—the place where new leaves shoot from the stem—and cut about an inch below it. Make sure you have a few leaves intact with that node. Plant the cutting in well-draining potting soil. Keep the soil moist but not soggy. Place the pot in a bright spot but not in direct sun. In two weeks, roots will develop. Pull out the plant and its trailing roots and replant in a larger pot, about 2-inches larger. How to Grow Calathea 'White Fusion' From Seed To grow calathea from seed, use a moistened seed starting mix or well-draining potting soil. Plant the seed about 1/4-inch deep. Cover the container with plastic wrap to keep in the soil's humidity and maintain warm soil. If the soil needs warming, use a heating pad to help spur germination. Put the pot in a bright but indirectly lit location. It can take up to a month for the seeds to sprout. Once a seedling grows at least an inch tall, carefully lift the sprout, keeping its root structure intact. Replant into a larger container, at least 2-inches larger. Potting and Repotting Calathea 'White Fusion' Repot it once a year (or every two years) to replenish the soil. Calathea plants that get rootbound invite fungal infections that will kill the plant. Increase the size of the container an inch or two each time. If you tend to overwater your plants, get an unglazed terra cotta pot since it’s porous and allows water to evaporate through the walls. If you tend to forget to water your plants, you might want to get glazed clay, plastic, or fiberglass pots. Repot your plant in spring or early summer during its active growing season. Water it thoroughly the day or two before repotting; it lessens the stress on the plant. Overwintering All calathea plants are tropical and will not survive a frost or freezing winter. As the temperatures begin to cool, prepare to bring your plant indoors to a bright spot with indirect sun by getting the plant used to indoor life slowly—only two hours a day at first, then increase by an hour each day. Keep the plant away from drafts and heaters. Keep the humidity high around the plant and mist the plant, if necessary. Once the outdoor climate warms again, gradually reintroduce the plant to outdoor life by bringing the plant out for two hours a day, then increasing by an hour each day. Temperature shifts are shocking for this plant and may cause a few leaves to drop. Common Pests & Plant Diseases Because they prefer a high humidity environment, fungus gnats can occasionally be a problem for calathea 'White Fusion.' They won't do any significant damage, but they are unsightly and not particularly pleasant. Apply neem oil to the leaves as a natural deterrent. Other common pests include aphids, mealybugs, spider mites, and scale. You can treat each with horticultural oil or insecticidal soap. Calathea plants tend to get overwatered because they require high humidity, making them prone to bacterial or fungal infections. If your plant develops Pseudomonas leaf spot, looking like white splotches on the leaves, you will have to destroy the plant since there is no treatment for this bacterial infection; and it can spread to other plants. To reduce the risk of getting this disease again, do not water from overhead—water the soil only (not the leaves) or water from underneath. Root rot is a fungal disease that causes rapidly yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and the base of the plant turns brown and rots. Take the plant out of the pot and inspect the roots below the soil line to treat root rot. Yellow roots are fine, but if browning, you must treat rotting roots immediately. Using sterile pruning snips or a knife, cut away any brown or mushy roots and discard them. Wash the pot in warm soapy water. Replace the soil with fresh, well-draining soil. Treat the place where the root was cut with an antifungal and plant it in the fresh soil. Keep the soil loose in the container so the roots can breathe. How to Get Calathea 'White Fusion' to Bloom Calathea 'White Fusion' produces small flowers when it reaches maturity, usually in the spring or summer. But when calathea are grown indoors, they very rarely bloom. If you replicate and maintain their ideal conditions indoors, then you might be rewarded with a bloom to let you know that you have figured out the secret to their growing success. However, the flowers are not much to look at and have no fragrance.
Common Problems With Calathea 'White Fusion' Calathea plants of all types require a moderate amount of care. They are sensitive about their humidity, temperature, drafts, water level, and lighting. When any of these variables are out of balance, the plant becomes prone to growth issues or health problems. Leaves Turning Brown Leaves turn yellow, brown, or die when calathea white fusion is overwatered. Dead calathea white fusion leaves should be removed immediately so that the plant doesn't start to rot, smell bad, and invite fungus. The leaves of calathea 'White Fusion' may turn brown and droop or fall off if they are placed too close to a window or in direct sunlight. Move the plant further away from the window to protect the plant's delicate leaves. Leaves Wilting or Drooping When calatheas need more water, the leaves will wilt, curl, or droop downward from the main stalk. Increase water frequency or volume. You can also mist the plant's leaves or invest in a small humidifier to give the plant more moisture. Leaf Patterns Disappearing When this plant gets overexposed to the sun, it will produce more chlorophyll, making the green coloration in the leaf more dominant. Find a shadier spot with filtered or dappled light to fix this situation.
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Miss Chen
2022年01月01日
Miss Chen
Acorus (Acorus spp.) is a perennial aquatic plant with sword-like leaves. It is often used along the borders of landscape ponds and other water features. Acorus is a perennial that spreads by underground rhizomes; it is not an ornamental grass. It should be planted in the late fall or early spring. Native to Japan and China, Acorus generally grows in USDA hardiness zones 6 to 9, with a few cultivars appropriate as far north as zones 4 and as far south as zone 11. The plant also goes by the common names of sweet flag and calamus. The term "flag" derives from the Middle English word flagge, meaning "reed." The tallest acorus top out at about 39-inches tall, while the smallest dwarf cultivars can be as short as 3 inches. The species is slow-growing but often needs to be controlled (usually through division) over time, to prevent excessive spread. The leaves are typically light green to golden-yellow in color and can help brighten dim garden areas. Small greenish-yellow flowers appear on spikes in spring and early summer, followed by red berries. The "sweet" label comes from the pleasant, spicy aroma the leaves produce when crushed.
Botanical Name Acorus Common Name Acorus, sweet flag, calamus Plant Type Herbaceous perennial, rhizome Mature Size 3 in. to 3 ft. tall, 6 in. to 2 ft. wide Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade Soil Type Moist to wet, variety of types Soil pH 6.5-7.5 Bloom Time Spring Flower Color Greenish-yellow (not showy) Hardiness Zones 6-9 (USDA) Native Area Japan, China Toxicity Toxic to humans and animals Acorus Care Acorus is a nearly effortless landscape plant to grow. Plant it in full sun to partial shade, in a location that is moist to constantly wet. It often performs its best right at the edge of a pond or stream. When growing acorus directly in a pond or other standing water, first place the plant in a container, then set it in water less than 4-inches deep. This is one of the rare garden plants that has no serious insect or disease problems. Leaf scorch can occur if the soil is not consistently moist or wet. Although slow-growing, it can be somewhat invasive in ideal conditions. Where this is a concern, growing it in submerged containers can be the best strategy. This plant is a good choice for stabilizing damp areas prone to erosion, such as the banks along creeks or landscape ponds. The bright color is good for brightening shady areas. It can be also grown in containers within landscape ponds or other water features. Acorus works well as a ground cover in boggy areas, similar to liriope plants. Light This water-loving plant also likes a fair amount of sun. It grows well in full to part shade, but more sun usually means that the soil needs more water to prevent it from drying out. Soil Acorus is tolerant of a variety of soil types, including heavy clay, but it prefers fertile soil that stays moist at all times. Water This is an aquatic plant, so constant or near-constant contact with water is essential. If the plants are not growing at the water's edge, water as needed to keep the soil moist. Leaf scorch is an indication of too little water. Temperature and Humidity Native to hot, humid climates of Asia, acorus can tolerate the heat and humidity in any U.S. region; dryness is another matter. But as long as the plant gets enough water, it will do fine. Protection from the hot afternoon sun can be beneficial in very hot weather. Leaves can brown at the edges in cold winter weather. Fertilizer Feed acorus as needed with a slow-release, slow- to medium-rate fertilizer, applied according to the product directions. If the plants are near a pond with fish, be aware of any fertilizer's effect on the water. Varieties ​'Ogon' features variegated leaves with a green stripe running along one side and a yellow stripe along the other. 'Variegatus' grows to about 30 inches in height. 'Pusilus Minimus Arueus' has gold-colored foliage and spreads to form a dense mat, it's a diminutive variety. Pruning Acorus rarely needs any pruning. If it starts to look unkempt, you can tidy it up with some clean garden shears.
Propagating Acorus Divide acorus in spring every three or four years. The small divisions can be planted in small pots to mature for a year or so before transplanting them into permanent garden locations. When separating from the mother plant, be sure to get a decent-size rhizome with the separated portion. Potting and Repotting Acorus Acorus is a whimsical addition to your container garden. Choose a container where your sweet flag grass will live for several years, so 4-inches larger than your plant's root balls, giving it room to grow. Use a high-quality potting medium, and be sure your container has adequate drainage holes. Remove your acorus from the container it comes in and gently loosen the roots with your fingers. Add some gravel to the bottom of your container, then cover with potting medium. Place the plant on the soil and fill the pot with potting medium to 1 inch from the top of the container. Water well, until it drips through the drainage holes.
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Miss Chen
2021年12月31日
Miss Chen
Caladiums are heat-loving perennials that have almost unparalleled foliage and make showy houseplants. The plant's large, arrow-shaped, paper-thin leaves come in a striking array of colors and patterns. A mass of caladium is an explosion of whites, greens, reds, and pinks that are mottled, veined, and striped. They can easily offer the visual impact of having planted flowers while only being foliage plants. Though they are grown mainly for their foliage, they do produce some flowers, which start in the form of spathes, or spikes. Plant these tubers in the springtime after the threat of frost has passed. As striking as they are, caladium plants are toxic to animals and humans.1 Common Name Caladium, elephant ears Botanical Name Caladium Family Araceae Plant Type Perennial Mature Size 12–30 in. tall, 12–24 in. wide Sun Exposure Indirect light (indoors), full to partial shade (outdoors) Soil Type Rich, well-drained Soil pH Slightly acidic Bloom Time Spring, summer, fall Flower Color Green, pink, white, red Hardiness Zones 9–10 (USDA) Native Area Central America, South America Toxicity Toxic to people and pets
Caladium Care Many gardeners use masses of these striking plants as summer accents and conversation pieces. Indoors or out, caladiums are seasonal tuberous plants that grow foliage from spring into autumn, peaking in the summer. Cut off any spathe as soon as they appear to ensure that all of the plants' energies are used for their gorgeous leaves. Caladium's rest period comes in the autumn or winter. Their rest period isn't determined by temperature or light cycle, but by how long the plants have been growing. Caladiums are seasonal plants even in the tropics, where gardeners plant them in the spring and summer months when they'll thrive in the heat and humidity they require. Unless you live in zones 9 to 10, you should plan to grow them as annuals, or dig up the plants' tubers at the end of the growing season and store them for the winter. When grown indoors, they do best with lots of heat, bright but indirect light, and plenty of humidity. Even under the best conditions, caladium foliage lasts only a few months before the leaves start to die back and the plant goes dormant again, which is normal. Light Caladium plants prefer indirect light or moderate shade indoors. The narrower the leaves, the greater the amount of sun they can withstand. Growing them outdoors in containers gives you more control over light conditions. In some climates, container plants can be grown in full sun, with careful monitoring. When growing them in a garden, give them partial shade to full shade; full sun scorches their leaves.2 Soil Plant caladium in a rich, well-drained potting mix, such as a damp mix of soil and peat. Garden soil should be similarly rich and well-drained. The ideal soil pH is slightly acidic, at 5.5 to 6.2. Water When leaves appear on the plant, water as needed to keep the soil evenly moist. Never let the plant dry out. Stop watering the plant when the leaves start to die back. Resume watering when the leaves reappear next season. Temperature and Humidity The warmer the better for caladium houseplants. Aim for 70 degrees Fahrenheit, if possible, as that is the temperature at which tubers begin to grow. Keep the humidity as high as is practical. When planting outdoors, you can transplant potted tubers (or, better yet, simply transfer them in peat pots) after the last frost date for your area. Plants grown this way should be started indoors four to six weeks prior to transplanting. Fertilizer Fertilize the plant weekly during the growing season with liquid fertilizer or use slow-release pellets. Types of Caladium There are literally too many cultivars to keep track of—caladium cultivars are green, red, pink, white, even orange. In many cases, cultivars are sold without names. Almost all cultivars are descended from C. bicolor, which is native to South America. Some books list these plants as C. hortulanum. Choose your variety based on its appearance. They will make a showy border or a single plant. A few noteworthy cultivars include: Caladium 'Creamsicle': This variety can be a vigorous grower. It features large green leaves accented with vibrant red and veined with bright white. Caladium 'White Christmas': Large, arrow-shaped green leaves with a heavy "dusting" of bright white make a simple and striking color combination in this variety. Caladium 'Miss Muffet': This dwarf variety reaches only about 8 inches in height and has lime-green leaves flecked with bright pink spots. Caladium 'Puppy Love': This relative newcomer has pink leaves edged in green and can tolerate full sun in some climates. Propagating Caladium When the plants die back in the fall or early winter, you can save the tubers in a bag and replant them next year for another show. Tubers of mature caladium can also be divided using the following steps: After the leaves begin to die back in the fall or early winter, use a sharp, sterile cutting tool to cut tubers. Make sure that each new tuber section has at least one growing site (with an eye or a knob). Either keep the tubers in the same pot (keeping them dry) or remove them, clean them, and put the tubers into sawdust or sand for storage. Let the tubers heal with a callous to prevent root rot. Store the tubers above 55 degrees Fahrenheit to minimize the loss of healthy samples. Plant the tubers outdoors or in pots again (callous end down) when the next growing season begins and soil temperatures are over 70 degrees Fahrenheit.3 Common Pests Caladium are not bothered by many detrimental pests. But, they may be afflicted by caterpillars and grasshoppers that will chew on the leaves and need specific ways to eliminate the activity. Other pests that suck on the leaves and can be eradicated with insecticidal soaps include: Aphids Mealybugs Mites Thrips Whiteflies Common Problems With Caladium Caladium leaves are typically colorful and attractive, so you easily notice if the plants have problems. If your caladium leaves turn unsightly colors, the issue may be easy to fix.
Leaves Turning Yellow Caladium leaves will turn yellow if the plant is overwatered, underwatered, getting too much light, or experiencing temperature and humidity level stress. The plant may also be experiencing nutrient deficiencies, such as a lack of magnesium, nitrogen, or iron. Leaves Turning Brown There could be many reasons your caladium leaves are turning brown, including: The plant is too dry. It's getting too much direct sunlight. It's not getting enough humidity. It's over-fertilized.
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Miss Chen
2021年12月29日
Miss Chen
All cactus plants are members of the Cactaceae family, and there are thousands of species in all. There are two large groups of cacti grown as houseplants: desert cacti and forest cacti. Both are popular and familiar, and both can thrive indoors with relatively little maintenance. Cactus plants come in many sizes, but most indoor varieties are small to moderate, Desert cacti are the more "traditional" cacti, usually covered with spines or hair and often growing in paddles, balls, or obelisks. Forest cacti grow in wooded areas, ranging from temperate forests to subtropical and tropical regions. The most well-known forest cacti may be the Christmas cactus, which is native to Brazil, and blooms in red, pink, purple, and even yellow. Both desert and forest cacti are slow-growing and boast beautiful blooms, but they have very different growing habits. Botanical Name Cactaceae Common Name Cactus, desert cactus, forest cactus Plant Type Succulents (with some exceptions) Mature Size Varies depending on variety Sun Exposure Some direct sun; quantity varies depending on variety Soil Type Well-draining, sandy soil Soil pH 5.5-7 Bloom Time Varies Flower Color Varies Hardiness Zones 9-11 (USDA) Native Area Deserts and rainforests around the world Indoor Cactus Care Desert cacti have a unique, stark beauty, and some of them feature the most beautiful flowers. Growing desert cacti is not difficult. These are among the toughest of all houseplants. There are dozens of kinds of desert cacti on the market and some species will bloom after three or four years in cultivation; others will take longer or never bloom indoors. Forest cacti grow in tropical and subtropical regions throughout the world. They are often climbing or epiphytic plants that cling to trees and can make excellent hanging plants. Light Strong light is essential for healthy desert cacti, especially in the winter. Some species may scorch in direct summer sun if they haven't been hardened off first. Forest cacti like bright, but not direct, sunlight. Move them outside during the summer.
Soil Pot desert cactus into a fast-draining cacti mix. If one is not available, amend the regular potting soil with inorganic agents like sand or perlite to increase drainage and aeration. Cacti are slow-growing plants and will rarely need repotting. Also, remember that many species of cacti will bloom better when they are slightly under-potted. For forest cactus, use a regular potting mix.​ Repot at the beginning of the growing season. Water In the spring and summer, when your desert cactus is actively growing and blooming or both, water whenever the compost begins to dry. During these waterings, make sure the plant is thoroughly watered. During the winter rest period, nearly cease watering. Only water if the plant begins to shrivel. The most common mistake with desert cacti is overwatering in the winter, which will cause rot either at the base of the plant or the tips of the growing areas. If the rot is advanced, it might be necessary to start new plants from cuttings or discard the whole plant. Water your forest cactus as a normal houseplant during the summer months and when the buds begin to show. During the resting period, only water when the soil is dry to the touch. As with succulents and desert cacti, forest cactus should not be watered heavily during the rest period. Root rot will result. Advanced root rot can only be treated by taking new cuttings and starting over. Temperature and Humidity During the active growth period, desert cacti prefer hot, dry temperatures, ranging from 70-80 F In the winter, the plants prefer a cooler period, down to 55 F. In their desert habitats, many cacti are accustomed to very chilly nights. You must protect them from very cold winter drafts. Forest cacti are somewhat less picky about temperature; during the growing season, they have a wide range, from 55-70 F. During the rest period, a colder spell of 50 F is essential.
Fertilizer For desert cactus, use a cacti fertilizer during the growing season. Some growers have poor results with standard fertilizers, so it's probably worth it to seek out a specialized cacti fertilizer. For forest cactus, fertilize during the growing season with a standard fertilizer. Reduce fertilizer during the growing season. Indoor Cactus Varieties 'Bunny ear' has "bunny" shaped ears and white flowers. Bunny ear is a desert cactus. 'Old lady' has hair and plenty of spines, and looks like a pincushion. It's a desert cactus. 'Easter' offers bright, colorful blooms. Easter is a forest cactus. 'Star' features a star-shaped mound and yellow flowers. Star is a desert cactus. Pruning Most cacti don't need pruning, just the removal of dead or damaged growth with clean, sharp garden shears. We strongly suggest wearing protective gardening gloves while you perform this task. Propagating Indoor Cactus Plants If your cacti produce offshoots, you can propagate them. First, make sure you a have clean, sharp, sterile knife. Next, put on protective gloves to protect yourself: You do not want to get pierced by a cactus spine. Slice off the offshoot as close to the base as possible. Let it sit in a dry place for a few days, giving it time to callus over the cut. Then, dip the cut end in rooting hormone, and lay it flat on top of a good growing medium, we suggest potting mix for cacti and succulents, and mist often. Once it develops strong roots, it can be planted in its own pot.
How to Grow Indoor Cacti From Seed Growing both desert and forest cactus plants from seed takes patience: these are very slow-growing plants. But if you insist, you can either collect seeds from a cactus that's bloomed or buy packaged seeds. The seeds may need to be stratified before planting. Prepare a potting mix for cacti and succulents, filled with perlite and sand. Plant seeds as deep as they are wide, and cover with a thin later of either sand or the cacti potting mix. Water lightly, cover with plastic, and sit in a bright location (but not direct sun). Most cacti will germinate in about three weeks, and once they do you can remove the plastic covering during the day. In about six months, seedlings should be ready for their own pots. Potting and Repotting Indoor Cactus Plants Cacti should be repotted when they need fresh soil (most are fine being pot-bound). To repot both forest and desert cacti, start by putting on a pair of protective gloves. Remove your plant from its current pot, and use a clean trowel to loosen the roots. Fill the bottom of a terra-cotta pot with fast-draining cacti potting mix (for desert cacti), or regular potting mix (for forest cacti). Add your plant, spoon in the potting mix around the sides, and use a stick-shaped tool—a chopstick works—to push the soil down. Water lightly.
Common Pests and Diseases All types of cactus can be prone to pests including mealybugs, scales, fungus gnats, and spider mites.1 In most cases, it's possible to carefully wash these pests off of plants using cotton swabs and water.
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Miss Chen
2021年12月27日
Miss Chen
Leafy cabbage (Brassica oleracea) is a vegetable grown for its densely packed heads. Some can be quite beautiful. They are classified by head shape, round and flat-head being the most commonly seen. There are cabbages with smooth leaves and pronounced veins and some with crinkled, or savoyed, leaves. You'll find cabbages in shades of white, green, and purple, and the flavor varies by variety. There are even ornamental cabbage varieties bred for their looks, not their flavor. Cabbage is in the Brassica genus along with broccoli, cauliflower, and other cole crops. Cabbages are some of the most popular vegetables to grow, although most home gardeners tend to grow a small fraction of the hundreds of varieties available.​ Cabbage plants are moderately fast growers and typically are ready to harvest about two months after the seedlings emerge or are transplanted in the garden. They are biennial plants that are typically grown as annuals. These are cool-weather plants that grow best in late-summer to fall in most climates. They can also be planted in spring. Botanical Name Brassica oleracea Common Name Cabbage, Head cabbage Plant Type Biennial (typically grown as annual) Mature Size 12 to 18 inches tall and wide Sun Exposure Full sun Soil Type Rich, well-drained Soil pH Neutral (above 6.8) Bloom Time Typically does not flower Flower Color Typically does not flower Hardiness Zones 2 to 11 Native Area Europe How to Plant Cabbage Cabbage plants can grow in cool weather, so you can get an early start on the season. They can also be re-seeded throughout the summer, provided the temperature isn't to high, to provide a continual harvest of heads as you need them, rather than having them all mature at the same time. There are cabbage seedlings available at every garden center in spring, but for the best variety you will need to start yours from seed. Luckily that's easy to do. You can start seeds indoors about 6 to 10 weeks before your last expected frost date. Because cabbages can handle a little frost, you can transplant the seedlings outdoors a couple of weeks before your last frost date, as long as the soil is workable. Later plantings can be direct sown in the garden. Plant transplants, or thin direct-sown seedlings, to a spacing of about 1 to 2 feet. Cabbage Care Light Cabbage plants can handle full sun to light shade. Since cabbage plants are not setting flowers or fruit, they do not need a full day of sun. Gardeners in warmer climates will want to provide some shade during hot months, so the plants do not dry out. Soil Cabbages need a well-drained soil that is rich in organic matter. To help prevent a common cabbage disease called club root that is most prevalent in acidic soil, keep the soil pH above 6.8. Water The biggest maintenance issue when growing cabbages is keeping them watered. Watering is also the key to preventing the heads from splitting. You want the cabbage heads to fill out, but not so quickly they burst open. Temperature and Humidity Cabbages do best in the relative cool of spring and fall and begin to suffer when daily temperatures stay around 80 Fahrenheit and above. Afternoon shade is recommended during the high heat of summer.
Fertilizer Cabbages can be heavy feeders, and side-dressing with compost every three weeks will keep the soil rich. Cabbage Varieties 'Drumhead' has deeply savoyed leaves and a wonderful savory crunch. 'Early Jersey Wakefield' is a classic cabbage that has been popular for years. 'January King' is a beautiful purple and green cabbage that is extremely frost-hardy. 'Murdoc' has a pointed head and tender, sweet leaves. 'Red Acre' and 'Red Delight' are early, easy-to-grow purple varieties. Harvesting The length of time a cabbage takes to mature will vary by variety, but most require about 50 to 60 days from transplant. Harvest when the head forms fully (depending on the variety) and they are firm to the touch. If you leave the heads on the plants for too long, they may split. You can remove the entire plant, or cut off the head at its base and leave the wide, outer leaves and roots in the ground for a second harvest; keep just a few of the new heads and let them grow to about 2 1/2 to 3 inches in diameter before harvesting. Cabbages can be stored for months in a root cellar where the temperature is between 45 degrees Fahrenheit and freezing. Common Pests and Diseases Unfortunately, there are many problems that plague cabbage. Cabbage worms and cabbage loopers are the main pest threats. They will munch holes throughout the leaves. Their coloring allows them to blend in with the cabbage, but they can be handpicked easily if you can see them. Slugs will also attack your cabbages as will cutworms. Diseases include club root; a fungus called blackleg that causes dark spots on the stems and leaves; black rot, which affects the veins, making them dark and foul-smelling; and the yellows (fusarium wilt), which leaves you with stunted, yellow heads. Once your cabbages are infected, there's not much you can do. You have to prevent these diseases by choosing disease-resistant varieties and by not growing cabbages in the same spot year after year. The fungus spores can remain in the soil over winter and reinfect new plantings. Another preventative measure is to never leave cabbage debris, or any cole crop debris, in the garden over winter. Once again, the spores can linger and over-winter, waiting to reinfect next year's plants.
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