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Miss Chen
2021年10月05日
Miss Chen
Becky shasta daisies (Leucanthemum x superbum 'Becky') are a cultivar of the hybrid shasta daisies. They grow larger than several of the other shasta cultivars, sporting many long-lasting, showy flowers that stretch roughly 3 to 4 inches across. The blooms have a classic daisy look with white petals around a central bright yellow disk. Becky shasta daisies rise up on rigid stems that bear leathery, lance-shaped green leaves. These flowers have a fast growth rate and can be aggressive spreaders in the garden if you let them freely sow their seeds. They can be planted in the spring or early fall. Botanical Name Leucanthemum x superbum 'Becky' Common Name Becky shasta daisy Plant Type Herbaceous, perennial Mature Size 3–4 ft. tall, 2–3 ft. wide Sun Exposure Full Soil Type Well-drained Soil pH Neutral Bloom Time Summer Flower Color White with a yellow center Hardiness Zones 5–9 (USDA) Native Area Hybrid developed in North America Toxicity Toxic to people and animals
Becky Shasta Daisy Care When provided with the proper growing conditions, Becky shasta daisies don’t require much care. Even though these flowers grow fairly tall, they typically don’t require staking due to their rigid stems. They’re commonly used as borders, in mixed flower beds, and in cutting gardens (as they make a wonderfully long-lasting cut flower). When the daisies are in bloom, deadheading (removing spent blooms) can help to promote additional flowering. Plus, removing the flower heads before they go to seed will prevent unwanted spread of the plants. Furthermore, every two to three years, plan to divide your plants to maintain their vigor. Simply dig up a clump and break it apart at its roots, keeping as many as possible intact. Then, replant the smaller clumps wherever you wish. Light Plant Becky shasta daisies in full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days. This will result in the best flowering on the plants. However, in climates with especially hot summers, some light shade in the afternoon can be beneficial for the daisies. But if they are starting to look leggy, that can mean they aren't getting enough sun. Soil These flowers aren’t picky about their soil type as long as it has good drainage. Soil that remains wet for too long can cause root rot and ultimately be fatal to the plants. Water Becky shasta daisies have low to moderate water requirements, and they have fairly good drought tolerance. During their first growing season, water your daisies regularly to keep the soil lightly moist (but ensure that it doesn’t get soggy). After that, you typically will only need to water during prolonged periods of drought when your plants have noticeable signs of wilt. Temperature and Humidity These plants have fairly good heat and cold tolerance within their growing zones. But extremely high temperatures can stress the plants and hinder their blooming. Likewise, a late frost or freeze in the spring can injure the buds and prevent some blooming. A layer of mulch around the daisies can help to protect the roots from extreme temperature fluctuations. Humidity typically isn't an issue for Becky shasta daisies as long as they have good soil drainage. Fertilizer Becky shasta daisies typically don't need fertilizer unless you have very lean soil. But it can be beneficial to work some compost into the soil around your plants annually in the spring.
Shasta Daisy Varieties There are multiple cultivars of shasta daisies besides 'Becky' including: ‘Esther Read’: This variety has pure white double flowers (having extra petals) with yellow centers. ‘Silberprinzesschen’: A compact plant, it only grows up to a foot tall but features profuse blooms that stretch about 3 inches across. ‘Snow Lady’: This is another compact variety that only reaches around a foot high and features the classic white daisy flowers, which stretch roughly 2.5 inches across. ‘Wirral Pride’: Double flowers adorn this variety which reaches around 1.5 to 2 feet tall. Common Pests/Diseases These daisies occasionally come down with a fungal disease called verticillium wilt, in which the plants quickly wilt and sometimes turn yellow first. It’s recommended to remove and destroy plants with this disease. They also are susceptible to leaf spot, a fungal disease that causes spots and damage to the foliage. This can be treated with a fungicide. Some common garden pests that might visit Becky shasta daisies include aphids and leaf miners, which can be treated with neem oil.
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Miss Chen
2021年10月03日
Miss Chen
Have you ever heard of the flowering penstemon? If not, don’t tell members of the American Penstemon Society. Yes, there is an organization dedicated to cultivating, propagating, and identifying species of this hardy native perennial, commonly known as beardtongue. If you still aren't sure about the beardtongue flower, perhaps the two men charged with felony theft in an attempt to steal 600 pounds of Palmer’s penstemon seedpods from Utah’s Zion National Park could tell you more about the value of this little plant. These men may regret exchanging their freedom for several bags of seed worth $25,000, but you won’t need to go to such extremes to grow the beardtongue flower in your landscape. The plantain family (Plantaginaceae) gifts us with some wonderful ornamental flowering plants, including snapdragons, foxglove, and the valuable Penstemon genus, which contains more than 250 beardtongue species ready to grow in your garden. Penstemon plants are herbaceous perennials that feature lance-shaped foliage and spikes of tubular flowers. Flower colors include pink, red, white, purple, and (rarely) yellow. The nickname of bearded tongue refers to the pollen-free stamen that protrudes from the flower, resembling a bearded iris in this aspect. This perennial is easy to grow from seeds planted in spring to early summer. It's somewhat slow to start and needs 10 to 21 days to germinate.
Botanical Name Penstemon Common Name Beardtongue Plant Type Herbaceous perennial Mature Size 6 inches to 8 feet tall and 8 to 20 inches wide Sun Exposure Full sun Soil Type Well-drained Soil pH 5.8 to 6.2 Bloom Time Spring, early summer Flower Color Purple, blue, orange, red, yellow, pink, white Hardiness Zones 3 to 8 Native Area North America How to Grow Beardtongue Beardtongue plants typically bloom in early summer, filling that gap between the end of spring bulbs and the maturing of summer flowers like coneflowers, yarrow, and coreopsis. Most penstemons are 1 to 3 feet tall, but Palmer’s penstemon can grow up to 6 feet, giving you options for the middle and back of the border. Keep the penstemon flowerbed weeded regularly. A 3-inch layer of organic mulch can help to control weeds, and rock mulch is also a suitable choice. You can cut the spent flower stems back after blooming to help plants look tidy. Penstemons don’t compete well with other plants, so give them plenty of space in the garden. Light Plant your beardtongue in an area that receives full sun. Adequate sun exposure helps the tall stalks stay upright and not droopy. Soil The soil for beardtongue must drain very well. These plants are prairie natives and prefer rocky or sandy lean soil types over rich garden loam. It’s okay to amend the soil with compost to achieve proper tilth, but avoid manure applications. Water Penstemons tolerate drought, but 1 inch of water per week in the summer will keep plants vigorous and promote better blooming. Temperature and Humidity Gardeners in USDA growing zones 3 to 9 have the option to try penstemons, although some varieties may only be hardy to zones 4 or 5. It can thrive in a range of humidity conditions. Fertilizer Feed beardtongue plants once a year with an organic fertilizer, applied in the fall. Feeding these flowers with conventional bloom-boosting formula can promote too much growth and can shorten the life of the plants. Varieties of Penstemon 'Dark Towers' is similar to Husker Red, but with pale pink flowers and darker foliage. 'Elfin Pink' is a good rock garden plant, topping out just shy of 12 inches. 'Husker Red' is perhaps the most well-known variety, due to being named perennial plant of the year in 1996; if features reddish-purple foliage and white flowers. 'Jingle Bells' has reddish-orange flowers that are beacons to hummingbirds. 'Piña Colada', a series of cultivars, features blue, rose, or white flowers on compact plants. 'Red Riding Hood' has red flowers and an upright growth habit. Growing From Seeds Penstemons are easy to start from seed, which is just as well, as many of the species are short-lived perennials. Seeds may germinate better after a period of aging, mimicking their conditions in the wild, so you can store seed for several years before planting. If you sow the seeds in the garden, do so in autumn, to allow a natural stratification period. Alternatively, you can stratify the seeds in the refrigerator for three months if you plan to start them indoors. If you purchase penstemon seeds, be sure to check the growing zone, as tender varieties like the ‘Tubular Bells’ series are often sold alongside the hardy perennial types. Common Pests and Diseases Penstemons don't suffer from too many insect problems, but slugs and snails may snack on leaves, especially in damp or shady areas.1 Sprinkle diatomaceous earth around plants to deter gnawing gastropods, and set out beer traps to catch any stragglers.
Penstemon plants are usually disease-free when given the proper culture of full sun and good drainage. Gardeners with heavy clay may lose plants to root rot, especially in areas with heavy snow that experience a long spring thaw. In Southern gardens, plants that don't have adequate soil drainage or are planted too closely together may succumb to powdery mildew2 or Southern blight, a fungal disease also known as white mold. Fungicide sprays treat symptoms but not the cause, so lighten your heavy soils with compost, or plant penstemons in raised beds to add air circulation to plant roots. Landscape Uses for Beardtongue Penstemon plants look best in groups of at least three to five plants. Smaller or alpine varieties work well in rock gardens, while tall penstemon types can provide a colorful backdrop along the back of the sunny mixed perennial border. Penstemon flowers are a valuable source of nectar for bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds in a wildflower garden. They also make good cut flowers, although most people don’t think of them as bouquet candidates. The good news for those who prefer not to cut is that browsing deer avoid penstemon plants.
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Miss Chen
2021年10月01日
Miss Chen
Growing Batik German iris is all about the mesmerizing color pattern on the flower petals. The royal purple flowers are streaked with irregular blotches of white (a patterning sometimes termed "broken color"). Its flowers, produced over a period of about one month, are also fragrant. Batik German iris is truly a show-stopper for the flower border. Botanical Name Iris germanica 'Batik' Common Name Batik iris, Batik German iris, Batik bearded iris Plant Type Herbaceous perennial Mature Size 24 inches in height Sun Exposure Full sun Soil Type Friable, evenly moist, and well-drained Soil pH Neutral Bloom Time May Flower Color Royal purple, with white blotches Hardiness Zones 4 to 9 Native Area The eastern Mediterranean How to Grow Batik German Iris Plant the rhizomes of Batik German iris no deeper than one inch down into the soil. This perennial is notorious for preferring a shallow planting depth.
After blooming, deadhead by removing flower stems right down to ground level. To avoid bacterial and fungal diseases, be fastidious in cleaning up a bed in which you are growing Batik German irises. After a hard frost in autumn, clean up any debris around the plants. Some experts recommend that you cut the leaves down to ground level at this time. This is a deer-resistant perennial. In spite of Bambi's disdain for it, it is a plant that attracts butterflies; you can also use it as a flower to attract hummingbirds. Dividing in August every four years or so will prevent overcrowding and rejuvenate your clumps of Batik German iris. Light Batik German iris tolerates light shade, but it will flower best when grown in full sun. Soil Work humus into the soil to promote good drainage. Water Keep the soil of Batik German iris evenly moist. But the plant does not like soggy soil, so make sure that the ground drains well. It is a moderately drought-tolerant perennial once established. Fertilizer For fertilizer (which some gardeners apply twice a year), use a product high in phosphorus (the middle number in the NPK sequence). Batik, Border, Bearded, German: What the Names Mean You probably recognize the germanica in the botanical name as the source for the "German" in the common name. I. germanica also goes by the common name of "bearded iris," due to the presence on the flowers of small hairs reminiscent of the hairs in a beard just beginning to grow. Like other genera brimming with hordes of different species, this genus has a lingo all its own, meant to help in classifying plants and facilitating descriptions of plant parts. For example, you will see Batik German iris listed as a "border" type. Among other qualifications, a border type will, by definition, attain a height of from 16 to 27.5 inches, according to the American Iris Society (AIS). Since Batik German irises have a height of 24 inches, they meet this qualification. The cultivar name of 'Batik' refers to an ancient artistic technique, whereby select portions of a medium are made resistant by applying wax to them, after which the surface is dyed. The dye-resistant areas retain their original color, whereas the rest of the surface assumes the color of the dye. Apparently, whoever named the plant thought of the batiking process when gazing upon the flower's purple-and-white coloration. The pattern could easily suggest an original color of white, made resistant with wax, over which a purple dye was applied (or vice versa). Usually associated with fabric, the concept can readily be applied elsewhere, as well. The batiking process is popular in artwork done on hardshell gourds (Lagenaria spp.), for example. Other Iris Batik is one of the many hybrid bearded irises available, but there are various types of irises. They come in many colors and sizes (including flower sizes), and they can differ substantially in growing requirements. Examples include:
Reticulated iris (Iris reticulata): This is a much smaller species (both in height and in flower size). It also blooms earlier. Blue flag (Iris versicolor): Being native to eastern North America, the blue flag is a good alternative for gardeners in that region who crave native gardens. It works well around water features. Japanese iris (Iris ensata): Another choice well-suited for planting around water features. Both this iris and blue flag require more water than Batik German iris, and they tolerate wet soil. Uses for Batik German Iris in the Landscape Batik German iris, being of intermediate height for a perennial, is a good plant for the middle row of a layered perennial flower bed. Alternatively, use it as an edging plant. It is a good cut flower, too. The plant exhibits a clumping growth habit, growing from a base of rhizomes. Its leaves are sword-shaped. Combined with its tall flower spikes, the leaves inject a vertical element in your flower borders that allows you to create contrasts in plant form.
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Miss Chen
2021年09月30日
Miss Chen
The black bat flower is an exotic looking, unusual plant that is somewhat difficult to grow, but rewarding for its unusual shape, texture and color in the garden. True to its common name, the bat flower looks like a bat with its wing shaped bracts and seed pods that look a bit like bat faces. It is an understory plant native to the forests of Asia and Australia, and grows best in a semi-tropical environment. It is sometimes also referred to as tiger beard, due to its long bracteoles which look like whiskers. The purple variety is a dark dusky color that ranges from maroon to purple, but often looks black. There is also a white flowering variety (Tacca integrifolia) that grows twice as large as the black one. Dramatic in the garden, bat flowers do not really survive long in a vase and so aren't really useful as cut flowers. The bat flower will bloom from late spring through early fall with new blooms appearing repeatedly throughout the season. Botanical Name Tacca chantrieri Common Name Bat flower Plant Type Perennial Mature Size 36 inches tall, 12 inches wide Sun Exposure Partial sun to dappled shade Soil Type Fertile, well-drained Soil pH 6.1 to 7.5 Bloom Time Late summer through fall Flower Color Black (dark purple), white (Tacca integrifolia)) Hardiness Zones 9b to 11 Native Areas Asia, Australia How to Grow Bat Flower While this is a fairly tropical plant, it does do well in some parts of the United States, and can be grown successfully in Florida, Louisiana, Mississippi and parts of California, wherever a moist, warm environment can be found. It may be necessary to create a small micro climate that is hospitable to this somewhat delicate plant. The bat flower is generally not vulnerable to pests, other than the usual slugs and snails one finds in a tropical garden. Light The bat flower requires warm temperatures but prefers a shady location. Plant where it will get indirect light, on the north side of a house, preferably in a setting with additional tropical understory plants. Soil Bat flower needs a rich, well-drained soil with plenty of organic matter. Amending soil with peat moss, pine bark, and compost may prove necessary. For container growing, use a rich potting medium with 50 percent soil, 40 percent amendments and 10 percent sand for good drainage.
Water After planting, keep the soil moist and water consistently. Bat flowers should not be allowed to dry out for too long. But make sure the planting location has good drainage. Fertilizer Black bat flowers benefit from fertilizing. Using a liquid fertilizer suitable for orchids is appropriate, applied every week, or use a general slow release fertilizer. Temperature and Humidity Since bat flowers are a semi-tropical plant, they do not withstand cold temperatures. If the temperature goes below 55F, bat flowers may die. They are happiest when the temperature is between 70 and 80 degrees. They can also be grown indoors but a consistently moist environment should be provided. Using a plant mister and having a humidifier will help ensure the bat flower gets the moisture it needs. Propagating Bat Flower The bat flower may be propagated from seeds that have been allowed to dry well, but they will take some time to germinate. Harvesting the seeds from the plant requires waiting until the seed pod has matured and split open. Bat flower can also be propagated from a tuberous root or rhizome cutting. Divide these rhizomes in the fall, and plant three feet apart. You can also order rhizomes from a catalog. Be patient when propagating, as the rhizomes need to reach a large enough size before they will form flowers. Growing in Containers It's possible to grow black bat flower in containers. If keeping them indoors, locate them near a window where the light is indirect. They also appreciate decent air circulation, as opposed to a closed greenhouse environment. Don't allow the plant to become root bound; keep an eye on it and repot into a bigger container as needed. Repotting once every year is a good rule of thumb. A wide shallow pot works best. You can put the containers outside in the summer, but avoid placing them in direct sunlight.
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Miss Chen
2021年09月28日
Miss Chen
The baseball plant (Euphorbia obesa) is a succulent perennial that is native to the Cape Province of South Africa. Since its discovery during the late 1800s, baseball plants have exploded in popularity as houseplants due to their unique appearance and low-maintenance needs. Though baseball plants are actually considered an endangered species in their native habitat due to unsustainable harvesting, they can easily be found in garden centers. Today, national and international legislation that prohibits harvesting baseball plants has been enacted in an effort to protect the remaining native populations of baseball plants. These long-lived, slow-growing succulents are characterized by bulbous shape, V-shaped markings, and seam-like ridges that resemble stitching. Rather than branches or leaves, the plant consists of a single wide stem body from which the flowers sprout. Young baseball plants are round in shape but become more elongated and cylindrically shaped with maturity. Baseball plants are also called sea urchin plants since they loosely resemble that creature. The plants are dioecious, with either male or female flowers that are yellow in color and rather insignificant in appearance. To produce seeds, the female flowers must be cross-pollinated by a male plant, and for this reason, the plant is rarely propagated by seed except in the nursery trade.
Botanical Name Euphorbia obesa Common Name Baseball plant, sea urchin plant Plant Type Succulent perennial Mature Size 7 to 8 inches tall, up to 4 inches wide Sun Exposure Bright, direct light; tolerates some shade Soil Type Well-draining cactus/succulent potting mix Soil pH 6.0–7.0 (slightly acidic to neutral) Bloom Time Summer (flowers are fairly insignificant) Flower Color Grayish-green Hardiness Zones 10–11 (USDA); grown as houseplants in all zones Native Area South Africa Toxicity Mildly toxic Baseball Plant Care Baseball plants are relatively easy plants to care for as long as their light and water requirements are met. They thrive if grown in a standard coarse potting mix formulated for cactus and succulents and placed in a location that receives plenty of sunlight or at constant bright indirect light. They are slow-growing plants that can be allowed to fill their pots before repotting becomes necessary. Few houseplants require less care than baseball plants. Baseball plants do not produce leaves or foliage but they do produce small, fragrant flowers in the summer months. The tough stem structures are largely impervious to pest and disease problems, but if overwatered or allowed to soak in water, the roots may develop rot. Light In their native habitat, baseball plants are accustomed to plenty of bright, direct sunlight. When grown indoors, baseball plants should receive at least four hours of direct sunlight a day if possible. Loss of color and pattern, as well as a loss of shape, are all indications that your baseball plant is not receiving enough light; etiolated ("leggy") growth is another indication. Place your baseball plant in a south or east-facing window in your home to ensure it receives adequate sunlight. Soil Baseball plants require coarse, well-draining potting soil in order to thrive and should be planted in a potting mix intended for cacti and succulents. Cactus soil is available at most commercial nurseries and garden centers, but if you don’t have one readily available you can easily make your own by mixing 3 parts regular potting soil, 2 parts coarse sand, and 1 part perlite. Water Baseball plants, like most succulents and cacti, do not tolerate overwatering. Water the plant only when the soil is thoroughly dry. Baseball plants require more water during the spring and summer months, and significantly less water during their dormant period in the fall and winter months. Temperature and Humidity Baseball plants appreciate warm temperatures. When grown inside, the average household temperature is more than sufficient. However, be careful to avoid placing your baseball plant in areas with cold drafts, as it can inhibit growth. If grown outdoors, they can tolerate occasional temperatures down to 30 degrees Fahrenheit.
Fertilizer As with most succulents, baseball plants do not require regular fertilization, as they are accustomed to growing in nutrient-poor soil. However, fertilizing your baseball plant during the spring can help it to thrive during its peak growing season. Be sure to use a cactus/succulent fertilizer for the best results. Propagating Baseball Plant Like other species of Euphorbia, baseball plant is difficult to propagate from seeds, since male and female plants require cross-pollination in order to produce seeds. Further, the seeds are very slow-growing. Euphorbias such as E. obesa, which have a single stem structure rather than individual branches, are normally propagated by first decapitating the plant at soil level. When small new growth structures emerge around the remaining root body, each new offset can be carefully cut away and replanted in coarse cactus/succulent planting mix. These are quite -growing plants that can take as much as eight years before they mature into flowering plants. Potting and Repotting Baseball plants do well in any coarse potting mix formulated for cactus and succulents. They do not require frequent repotting, and should only be repotted once the circumference of the plant is pushing against the edge of the pot. Protective gardening gloves should be worn at all times while repotting baseball plants as their sap can irritate the skin upon contact.
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Miss Chen
2021年09月26日
Miss Chen
There are dozens of species and varieties of banana and plantain trees (Musa spp.). While these tropical fruiting plants are commonly referred to as trees, they’re technically huge herbaceous plants, meaning they don’t have a woody stem. Instead, they have fleshy, upright stalks from which large, oblong, bright green leaves grow. Showy flowers appear typically in the spring, giving way to the fleshy, elongated, green or yellow fruit. No matter the size of your yard or home, there is a banana tree to fit. Plus, they can make good houseplants with enough light, though they typically don't bear fruit indoors. Banana trees generally have a fast growth rate and should be planted in the spring.
Common Names Banana tree, plantain tree Botanical Name Musa spp. Family Musaceae Plant Type Herbaceous, perennial Mature Size 2–30 ft. tall, 1–15 ft. wide (varies widely by species) Sun Exposure Full Soil Type Loamy, well-drained Soil pH Acidic Bloom Time Spring Flower Color White, purple, orange Hardiness Zones 9–11 (USDA) Native Area Asia, Africa, Australia Banana Tree Care While most species grow best in warm climates, there also are somewhat cold-hardy banana trees. If you're planting the banana tree outdoors, choosing the right planting site is key to making care easy. Grow this plant in a location where it will be sheltered from strong winds, as it is very susceptible to damaged leaves. Prepare your planting site by mixing some compost into the soil. And make sure you have enough space for the height and spread of your particular species. During the growing season (spring to fall), banana trees are water hogs. You might have to water daily, especially during hot weather, to maintain adequate soil moisture. The plants also will need regular fertilization throughout the growing season. Bananas form in the late summer in a cluster called a hand. Once the fruit is green but plumped up, it can be cut off the stalk and placed in a cool, dry space to finish ripening. Light Most types of bananas plants prefer to grow in full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days. However, some varieties can scorch easily and will do better in partial shade. Soil These plants love organically rich, deep soil with good drainage and a slightly acidic soil pH. They typically have poor tolerance for salt in the soil. Water Banana trees are tropical and originate in rainforests, so they need a lot of water and plenty of moisture in the air. They do best when planted in groups fairly close together, as this helps to retain moisture in the leaves. Water regularly to make sure the soil stays evenly moist but not soggy. Avoid overwatering, which can cause root rot. Temperature and Humidity These plants thrive in warm, humid conditions, but they don't like temperature extremes. Even the hardy, cold-tolerant banana tree species prefer consistent temperatures ranging between 75 and 95 degrees Fahrenheit. Cold temperatures and dry conditions can cause the plants to quickly die back. To increase the level of humidity, mist the leaves daily. Fertilizer Banana trees are heavy feeders. Apply a balanced fertilizer regularly throughout the growing season, following label instructions. Also, mix compost into the soil annually to raise the level of organic matter. Types of Banana Trees There are roughly 70 species and even more varieties of banana trees, including: Musa acuminata: This species reaches around 12 to 20 feet tall and is often grown for its ornamental foliage thanks to its paddle-shaped leaves that can reach around 6 to 10 inches long. Musa ornata: Commonly referred to as the flowering banana, this species is mostly grown for its ornamental value; its small fruit is not typically eaten. Musa basjoo: Known as the Japanese banana, this species has fairly good cold tolerance and reaches around 6 to 14 feet tall. Pruning Before the banana tree fruits, prune it so there is only one main stem. After it has been growing for six to eight months, leave one sucker (small shoot at the base of the stem). This plant will replace the main stem in the next growing season. After the fruit is removed, cut the main stem down to 2.5 feet. Remove the rest of the stem in a few weeks, leaving the replacement sucker intact. Propagating Banana Trees The best method of propagation is division. To divide banana plants, separate the suckers from the rhizome (horizontal underground stem) using a sharp spade. Before you do this, wait until the suckers are at least 3 feet tall and have their own roots. Once you separate a sucker from the parent plant, allow the surface of the rhizome section to dry for a day or so. At this point, it will be ready for replanting in any appropriate location.
Potting and Repotting Banana Trees Banana trees can grow in containers, but they generally will need at least a 15-gallon pot at minimum for optimal growth. Ensure that the pot has drainage holes, and use a loose, organically rich potting mix. A benefit to potting your banana tree is you will be able to bring it indoors to shelter it from cold and inclement weather. However, potted banana trees tend to have higher watering and feeding needs, as they will use up what is in their limited soil faster than banana trees in the ground. In addition, they likely won't reach their maximum size and might not bear fruit. Still, many people prefer them for their foliage. You typically will need to divide and repot container banana trees every three years, separating any suckers from the parent plant. Common Pests & Plant Diseases Owners of banana trees need to stay vigilant of the many pests and diseases that can afflict a banana tree. Pests include the following: Aphids: These pests cause curled and shriveled foliage and can also transmit other diseases that will affect any fruit produced. Black weevils: If you see jelly-like sap oozing from the plant, you may have black weevils that can be eliminated with pesticides. Nematodes: This is the banana tree's most common pest that will rot the plant and fruit. Sap-sucking insects:Mealybugs and red spider mites are also common to banana trees. Scarring beetle: This pest invades bunches of the plant's fruit and can be eliminated with pesticide. Thrips: This pest will stain and split the peel of the plant's fruit. There are many diseases common to banana trees in large orchards and are taken care of with commercial fungicides and pesticides. As for indoor potted banana trees, be on the lookout for root rot, leaf-spot disease, wilt, and powdery mildew.
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Miss Chen
2021年09月24日
Miss Chen
Despite its name, bamboo palms (Chamaedorea seifrizii) are not bamboo at all but are a type of palm in the Araceae family. These tropical plants are native to Mexico and Central America and grow naturally as forest understory plants. They are ideal houseplants that can add a tropical feel to any room. Plus, they are listed on NASA's clean air varieties list 8 Palms Plants to Grow Indoors Botanical Name Chamaedorea seifrizii Common Name Bamboo palm Plant Type Perennial, clustered parlour palm, reed palm, cane palm Mature Size 4-12 ft. tall, 3-5 ft. wide Sun Exposure Partial, shade Soil Type Moist but well-drained Soil pH Acidic, neutral Bloom Time Spring, summer Flower Color Yellow, orange Hardiness Zones 10-11, USA Native Area Central America
Bamboo Palm Care Bamboo palms are popular houseplants because they are low-maintenance and they do well in a variety of lighting conditions. They do require consistent moisture, so if you tend to under-water your plants you may want to skip this palm. Light Bamboo palms are the perfect tropical plant for medium to low-light conditions. Unlike other palms, they do not require bright light in order to thrive. They do well in a variety of light conditions ranging from low light to bright light, and can even tolerate being placed in north-facing windows. Avoid hot, direct sunlight as it will burn their delicate leaves. Soil Moist but well-draining soil is best for bamboo palms. Soil that is porous but humus-rich is ideal. Amending standard potting soil with peat moss, orchid bark, and perlite is a great DIY soil mix for bamboo palms. Water The soil of bamboo palms should be kept evenly moist, but never waterlogged. Bamboo palms are sensitive to both overwatering and under-watering, but it is always best to under-water rather than overwater. Allow the top of the soil to dry slightly between waterings. Temperature and Humidity These tropical palms enjoy warm temperatures and humid environments and are hardy in USDA zones 10-11. They are not frost-tolerant. Bamboo palms do well in typical household temperature and humidity levels but appreciate extra humidity where possible. Placing your palm near a humidifier or on a pebble tray will help to increase the humidity around the plant. Fertilizer Bamboo palms should be fertilized during the growing season to help encourage healthy growth. Granular, time-release fertilizers work best. Spread the fertilizer on top of the potting medium and ensure that you water it in. Avoid fertilizing during the fall and winter when the plant is in dormancy. Pruning Bamboo Palms These palms are low-maintenance and rarely need pruning. Consistently tidying up any dried, brown leaves or leaf tips will help keep the plant looking healthy and attractive.
Propagating Bamboo Palms Bamboo palms are sensitive to trauma and can be tricky to propagate. Mature bamboo palms produce offshoots that can be separated and established as new plants. Use a clean, sharp knife to separate offshoots from the mother plant. If the offshoots have their own root systems (which they should), ensure that you separate those as well. Pot the offshoots in loamy, well-draining soil and keep them in a consistently humid environment until established (approximately 2-3 months). Potting and Repotting Bamboo Palms Bamboo palms should be repotted once they have outgrown their previous container. They tend to be slow-growing so you should not need to repot them too often. Keep in mind that the plant will grow as large as the pot you give it—so if you want to keep your bamboo palm small, don’t increase the pot size very much when you repot. This will help to control the size of the palm. Common Pests/Diseases Bamboo palms are susceptible to a range of common houseplant pests such as mealybugs, aphids, whiteflies, fungus gnats, and scale. These pests can be mitigated with insecticide treatments if necessary. Be sure to regularly check over your bamboo palm for pests to help catch any infestations early.
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Miss Chen
2021年09月22日
Miss Chen
The common name bamboo is applied to over a thousand plant species. In the wild, several of these species can grow to towering heights of 50 feet or more. However, it is possible to grow certain types of bamboo in containers—even indoors. Golden bamboo (Phyllostachys aurea) is one of those species. This bamboo features bright green upright canes that turn to a golden color with age and sunlight exposure. Its narrow, lance-shaped leaves grow in clusters on short stems off of the canes. The plant grows quickly and can easily spread throughout a garden if you let it. Thus, planting it in a pot is ideal to keep it contained. It won’t grow as large, but that means it will be much more manageable. It’s best planted in the spring or early fall, though indoors you generally can plant it any time of year. Botanical Name Phyllostachys aurea Common Names Bamboo, golden bamboo, fishpole bamboo, monk’s belly bamboo, fairyland bamboo Plant Type Perennial, shrub Mature Size 15–30 ft. tall, 8–15 ft. wide (outdoors), 5–8 ft. tall, 2–4 ft. wide (indoors) Sun Exposure Full, partial Soil Type Loamy, moist, well-drained Soil pH Acidic Bloom Time Nonflowering Flower Color Nonflowering Hardiness Zones 6–10 (USDA) Native Area China
Bamboo Care Bamboo is usually a low-maintenance, hardy plant. It rarely has issues with pests or diseases, and it typically doesn’t require pruning. You can remove old canes at their base if they begin to look unsightly. And you also can remove new shoots as they pop up from the soil if you want to limit your plant’s growth. Regular watering and feeding will make up the bulk of your plant maintenance. To maintain the soil moisture bamboo likes, you might have to water your container plant more than once a week. But especially for an indoor plant where the climate doesn’t change drastically, you should be able to establish a predictable care routine fairly easily. Light Bamboo prefers a spot that gets full sun to partial shade. Too much shade can result in a weak plant that does not grow to its fullest potential or develop its brilliant color. Indoors, keep your bamboo by your brightest window, and rotate the pot every week or so to be sure all sides of the plant get light. Soil This plant can tolerate a variety of soil types, but it prefers organically rich soil with good drainage. A quality commercial potting mix should be fine for container plants. Water Bamboo has some drought tolerance once it’s established, and it can handle soggy soil for a short time. However, sitting in pooled water can ultimately rot the roots and kill the plant. The plant ideally should have evenly moist soil. Test the soil by sticking your finger an inch or two in it and watering whenever it feels dry. Never let the soil dry out completely. But during the winter months, slightly cut back on watering. Temperature and Humidity This species of bamboo is known for its cold tolerance. It can survive temperatures even around 5 degrees Fahrenheit for short amounts of time. However, cold weather can cause the plant to drop foliage and might eventually kill it. The plant will thrive in typical indoor temperatures between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Keep it away from cold drafts, such as those from an air conditioner, as well as from drying heat vents. These plants prefer fairly humid air but can tolerate some indoor dryness as long as you keep them well watered. Fertilizer To maintain an optimal amount of nutrients in your container plant’s soil, feed your bamboo with a balanced liquid fertilizer once a month, following label instructions. It also can be helpful to mix some organic compost into the soil, especially in the spring, to promote healthy plant growth. Potting and Repotting Bamboo When starting with a small nursery bamboo plant, choose a container that is at least 12 inches wide and deep. Pick a pot made from a heavy material to anchor the weight of the bamboo canes. You can even add some rocks or gravel to the bottom if you feel the container isn’t sturdy enough to anchor the plant’s weight. Also, make sure the container has ample drainage holes. Place the root ball in the pot, and fill in around it with a loose, nutrient-rich potting mix. If you wish, mix in some compost at this time to encourage growth. Then, water the bamboo well.
You likely will have to move your bamboo to a larger pot every year or two once the roots have spread through the entire pot and you see them coming out the holes in the bottom or poking up out of the soil on top. Don’t allow your plant to remain in a pot that’s too small for it for very long, as it won’t be able to get enough nutrients to remain healthy. An indoor plant typically will do fine being repotted at any time of year, but at the start of the growing season in the spring when the plant is revving up its growth is generally the best time for repotting. Bamboo Varieties There are several varieties of Phyllostachys aurea, including: Phyllostachys aurea ‘Flavescens Inversa’: Some lower sections of the canes of this variety can have a yellow stripe. Phyllostachys aurea ‘Holochrysa’: The canes of this variety often turn golden faster than others of the species. Phyllostachys aurea ‘Koi’: This variety has canes that turn yellow with green stripes. Phyllostachys aurea ‘Takemurai’: This variety tends to grow larger than other plants of the species.
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Miss Chen
2021年09月21日
Miss Chen
Balloon flowers (Platycodon grandiflorus) are clump-forming perennials and members of the easy-to-grow bellflower family of plants although the blooms do not resemble bells. Instead, puffy, balloon-like buds swell up to produce the 2- to 3-inch star-shaped flowers. This easy-grower blooms all summer long with intense blue-violet flowers, but there are also cultivars with white and pink blooms. Balloon flowers are generally planted in the spring after the danger of frost has passed, growing quickly to bloom in the first year. Common Name Balloon flower, Chinese bellflower, Japanese bellflower Botanical Name Platycodon grandiflorus Family Campanulaceae (bellflower) Plant Type Herbaceous perennial Mature Size 1– 2 1/2 ft. tall, 1–1 1/2 ft. wide Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade Soil Type Rich, loamy, medium moisture, well-draining Soil pH 5.5–7.5 (acidic to slightly alkaline) Bloom Time Summer Flower Color Blue-violet, white, pink Hardiness Zones 3–8 (USDA) Native Area China, Korea, Japan, Russia Balloon Flower Care Balloon flowers make excellent plants for border gardens or rock gardens and the blooms attract pollinators such as bees and butterflies thanks to their wide-open petals. These perennials will self-sow their seed, though they aren't aggressive spreaders. Overall, balloon flowers are fairly low-maintenance plants and are quite pest- and disease-resistant outside of root rot in areas with large amounts of rainfall.1 The taller varieties of balloon flowers can become a bit floppy. You can stake them or plant them in clumps to let them support one another. Start with nursery plants or grow your balloon flowers from seed. Light You will get the most flowers if you plant balloon flowers in full sun (at least six hours of sunlight on most days). However, they will be fine in part shade and might actually prefer some shade from where the afternoon sun is especially hot. Soil Balloon flowers prefer organically rich, loamy soil that has good drainage. They don’t grow well in dense soil, such as clay. They like a soil pH in the 5.5 to 7.5 range. Water Keep the soil of young plants consistently moist but not soggy. Once established, balloon flowers like a moderate amount of moisture in the soil, but they can tolerate short periods of drought. They won’t need a lot of supplemental watering unless you have a long period without rainfall that causes the soil to dry out. Temperature and Humidity Balloon flowers are hardy and do well in USDA growing zones 3 to 8. Their ideal temperature range is between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit, but they can withstand higher temperatures if they have some shade in the afternoon. Frost can kill young plants and will cause established plants to die back into the ground in the fall. Balloon flowers tolerate both humid and dry air conditions, provided they have the right amount of soil moisture. Fertilizer Balloon flowers typically don't need supplemental feeding if you have rich soil. But a layer of compost in the fall can help them replenish the energy they expend blooming during the growing season. If you have poor soil, use an all-purpose, slow-release fertilizer in early spring. Types of Balloon Flowers There are several popular varieties of balloon flowers, including: Platycodon grandiflorus Astra series: This type grows double flowers with 10 petals in blue, pink, or white. They're an ideal choice to start from seeds. P. grandiflorus Fuji series: This is the most commonly sold variety, as well as the tallest, with 30-inch stems and flowers in blue, pink, or white. P. grandiflorus 'Komachi': The purple-blue flowers in this variety stay in their puffy pillow stage even after blooming. P. 'Sentimental Blue': This dwarf variety grows about 6 inches tall with lots of 1- to 2-inch purple flowers. Pruning Pruning generally isn't necessary with balloon flowers, though you can do so for appearance. To achieve stockier plants, you can cut back tall stems by about half in the late spring. This can help to prevent the plants from flopping over. Also, deadheading your plants (removing spent blooms) will keep them looking good and repeatedly blooming. Don't remove the whole stem, just the faded flowers. The remaining buds on the stem will continue to open. Propagating Balloon Flowers Propagating by division is generally not recommended for balloon flowers because the deep taproots do not like being disturbed. Instead, you can propagate by taking stem cuttings. Use sterile, sharp pruners to trim a 4-inch length of stem, and remove the lower foliage to expose the bare stem. Use a rooting hormone on the bare stem if you wish, and then pot it in moist soil. Keep the soil moist (but not soggy) as you wait for roots to take hold. Once you see leaf growth and feel resistance when you give the cutting a gentle tug, you’ll know roots have grown. Then, the plant is ready to be transplanted into the garden. How to Grow Balloon Flowers From Seed Start seeds indoors in the early spring about six to eight weeks before your area's projected last frost date, using seed starter mix or ordinary potting soil. Barely cover the seeds with 1/16 inch of soil. Place the container in a warm location until the seeds germinate. After the weather has warmed, you can transplant the seedlings outdoors. If you plant seeds directly in your garden, do so after your last frost date, but know they likely won't flower in their first year. Common Pests and Plant Diseases Balloon flowers generally attract slugs and snails, as do many other outdoor bloomers, which can be coaxed off the plants with bait. However, the plant may become afflicted with crown rot, root rot, botrytis gray mold, powdery mildew, or fungal leaf spot. Crown and root rot may cause plants to die over the winter. Leaves presenting powdery spots, mottling, or blotching can usually be treated with a fungicide. Quickly discard plants with gray mold so it doesn't spread, then use a preventative fungicide on remaining plants.
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Miss Chen
2021年09月19日
Miss Chen
The Parodia magnifica genus includes a multitude of showy and easy-to-grow small ball cacti. Native to central South America, they are easy to care for, making them excellent beginner cacti. Their round appearance is to credit for their shapely name, and they can grow in clusters up to over a foot wide. While they prefer a warm and dry climate, they are more adaptable than some of their cacti cousins, able to withstand temperatures that hover around freezing as long as they're kept dry. Ball cacti are moderate growers, adding about 4 inches to their height each year. Older plants will frequently produce flowers in beautiful shades of yellow, red, orange, or pink, and all varietals feature ridges of spikes that start out white and grow to a yellow-brown with age.
Botanical Name Parodia magnifica Common Name Ball cactus, balloon cactus, silver ball cactus, blue ball cactus Plant Type Cactus Mature Size 3–12 in. tall, 3–18 in. wide Sun Exposure Full sun, partial shade Soil Type Sandy, well-drained Soil pH Acidic Bloom Time Summer Flower Color Yellow, pink, red, orange Hardiness Zones 9–12 (USDA) Native Area South America Ball Cactus Care If you can grow cacti and succulents successfully, you can likely grow the popular ball cactus without too much trouble. It's important to remember that the ball cactus doesn't like direct sunlight and is accustomed to more water than many other cacti species. Additionally, it's imperative that the cactus is not exposed to prolonged dampness or sitting water. Never let your cactus sit in a dish of water, and take care to ensure its soil is very well-draining. To encourage better flowering, allow the plants to enjoy a cooling period in the winter and dramatically cut back on watering cadence. Lastly, make sure to fertilize during the growing season for the best results. Light Ball cacti like lots of light—just not too much of it. Don't let that confuse you, though—it's actually simpler than it seems. Essentially they can take direct sunlight in the softer hours of the mornings and afternoons but should be kept in partial shade throughout the hottest hours of the day. If your yard or garden can't account for both, consider planting your cactus in a pot that you can move into a shadier spot during high noon. If you're planting your cactus indoors and are sitting it at a window sill for sunlight, be sure to rotate it periodically to ensure even (not skewed or crooked) growth. Soil Like many cacti, the ball cactus prefers an airy, dry soil mixture. Drainage is especially important as well, so if you're opting for a store-bought blend (cacti or succulent-specific mix is your best bet), consider adding coarse sand, perlite, or pumice to the mixture to help aerate the soil. Overall, the pH level of the soil isn't terribly important to the ball cactus, but it does thrive best in a slightly acidic mixture with a pH between 6.1 and 6.5. Water Ball cacti are drought tolerant but do like water during their growing season. Provide regular water during the spring and summer months, but only when the soil is dry to the touch, thoroughly soaking the soil through when you do water. In the winter the cactus will go dormant and need very little water, so you can cease complete cut back watering and let the soil almost dry between waterings, but do not let it completely dry out. If planted in a container, make sure there are several holes in the bottom of the pot to aid in drainage. Temperature and Humidity True to their nature, ball cacti prefer warm, desert-like conditions. That being said, they can survive in below-freezing temperatures as low as 20 degrees Fahrenheit, though it's not recommended that they're kept that cold for very long at all. Dry heat is the key to keeping any cactus, and ball cacti will not do well if exposed to too much moisture—either from watering or in the form of humidity. Therefore, it is unnecessary to spritz them or increase the humidity in their environment. Fertilizer Though not necessary, the ball cactus will respond well to fertilizer. During the growing season, fertilize with a cacti fertilizer mix, and suspend feeding during the dormant winter period.
Propagating Ball Cactus Ball cacti can be propagated easily from offsets, which readily form in clusters around the base of the mother plant. To propagate, carefully remove an offset and allow the cut section to dry on a paper towel for a few days–depending on the size of the cut area, a callous will form over the cut surface. Once the callous has formed, place the new plant in a pot with a cactus or succulent soil mixture and keep it in a warm place until new roots emerge. Once the cactus is established, repot it into a regular-sized container. Potting and Repotting Ball Cactus Repot your ball cactus as needed, preferably during the warm season. Make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the cactus and surrounding soil from the pot. Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide. Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot. Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot.
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