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Miss Chen
2021年05月22日
Miss Chen
Distribution and habitat: Faucaria tigrina is a subtropical succulent plant native of South Africa in eastern Cape Province thicket and savanna and the Karoo desert. It is found in open, rocky patches, in a dark clay soil with a low pH, in mountain renosterveld. The Latin name for these succulent house plants is Faucaria meaning jaws and tigrina meaning tiger. The ‘teeth’ of the Faucaria tigrina however, are actually soft and harmless, and help to trap moist fog and direct it down to the roots. Fog that comes in from the coast provides a precious source of water for plants surviving in the hot, arid thickets. Description: Faucaria tigrina are low growing succulent plants with four or five layers of leaves arranged in criss-cross opposite pairs, forming a thick, star shaped rosette. Each pair of leaves is united at the base and these are virtually no stems. The leaves are fleshy and pointed, 2-5cm (0.8-2 inch) long and 2cm (0.8 inch) broad at the base. The roughly triangular leaves, which are usually edged with soft and bristle-like hooked teeth, have a flat upper surface, but the underside is convex. Leaf colour is greyish green marked with many small white dots. The teeth on the edge of the young leaves interlock, but they later strengthen and separate to give a jaw like appearance. The plants send out basal offsets that form crowded clumps. Relatively large, daisy-like flowers, which generally open in the afternoon, are produced from between the leaves in autumn. They are attractive golden yellow, stalk-less and can be up to 5cm (2 inch) wide. Proper care: The plants in this genus represent some of the more easily cultivated succulent species. Light: Faucaria tigrina must have at least three hours a day of direct sunlight all year long in order to flower. Temperature: Faucaria tigrina needs warmer temperatures from spring through fall 21-32°C (70-90°F). It needs average temperatures in winter, 16-24°C (60-75°F). If the plant is moved outdoors for the summer, be sure to bring it back indoors when nighttime temperatures drop below 16°C (60°F). This succulent plant requires an average to dry humidity. Water: Keep Faucaria tigrina soil lightly moist spring through fall. In winter, allow soil to dry out between waterings. Feeding: During the active growth period only, apply standard liquid fertiliser at half-strength once or twice during growth period. Too frequent feeding will result in soft, uncharacteristic growth. Potting and repotting: Use a mixture composed of two parts of soil-based mixture to one part of coarse sand or grit. Because Faucaria tigrina have relatively little root, plant them in shallow pans or half-pots. When a clump has covered the surface of the potting mixture, move plants into a container one size larger. Repotting should be necessary, however, only one in two or three years. The best time to pot is early spring. Gardening: In areas prone to frost, Faucaria tigrina should be overwintered in an intermediate greenhouse or conservatory, in pots of cactus compost. Although the plants will survive mild frost if kept dry – hardy as low as -5°C (23°F) – they should be protected from frost to prevent scarring. Faucarias become woody and untidy as they age. New plants can be started by cutting a rosette and planting it.
Position: Faucaria tigrina plants need full sun to light shade. Keep them shaded in summer, but provide maximum light the rest of the year. They do not do well in full shade as they tend to etiolate, fall over and rot easily. Soil: Faucaria tigrina need to be located in an accentuated and drained substratum. The substrate should be gritty-sandy soil. They thrive on a little compost and some fine mulch spread between the plants would also be a good idea. These succulent plants will grow in a well-drained soil mix, but can tolerate a wide variety of soil types and growing locations as long as there is plenty of sun. Irrigation: Faucaria tigrina is native to a primarily summer rainfall area but in cultivation the plant can be watered year-round. The plants are well watered during the growing season and allowed to dry thoroughly before watering again and will tolerate some over watering, but the challenge is to help them keep their compact form and prevent elongation of the stem. Faucaria tigrina plants grow on winter rain and were heading for spring-summer dormancy. Requires little water otherwise their epidermis breaks (resulting in unsightly scars). Water moderately from the middle of summer to the end of winter and keep the compost almost dry when the plants are dormant. Water minimally in spring and summer, only when the plant starts shriveling (but they will generally grow even in summer if given water). Fertiliser: Faucaria tigrina plants should be fertilised only once during the growing season with a balanced fertilizer diluted to half the recommended strength. Propagation: Carefully divide overcrowded clumps of Faucaria tigrina in late spring or early summer just after plants have restarted into growth. As individual plants are separated, some will come away with their roots attached. Insert each such rooted Faucaria tigrina directly into an 8cm or 10cm (3-4 inch) container of the recommended potting mixture and treat the new plant as a mature specimen. For the first week or two, however, keep the Faucaria tigrina in medium light, well out of direct sunlight. An individual plant without roots attached should be left unpotted for a few days to let the base of the plant harden. It may then be inserted in the recommended potting mixture. Surround the base with some additional coarse sand. This will help to prevent rotting and encourage the development of roots. Keep the plant in medium light and water only moderately until new growth indicates that rooting has occurred. Thereafter, treat the young plant as a mature Faucaria tigrina.
Problems: The spring weather, with a high temperature swing between the day and night hours and pretty frequent rains, can favour the development of fungus diseases (phytophthora) indicated by sudden wilting and pale green discolouration. Treatement: Remove infected plants and treat remaining plants preemptively with a systemic fungicide, before the gems grow excessively. Avoid fungus infections by improving drainage and over-fertilization. Waxy fibres and honeydew on leaves and shoots indicate an infestation with mealybugs. Scale insects sit on the undersides of the leaves. Treatment: At the end of the winter a wide range insecticide is recommended to be applied to prevent the insects attack. It is recommended to do these treatments when there are not flowerings in the garden. Alternatively, control biologically with predatory ladybirds or parasitic wasps can be used in garden. Note: Continued urban development and over-grazing within its current natural habitat means Faucaria tigrina plant is classed as endangered in the wild. Uses and display: Faucaria tigrina is used as a border or filler plant in rock gardens, xeriscaping or wild gardens. It will attract bees, butterflies and other insects into the garden. It is a suitable succulent plant for smaller gardens and can be used to stabilise banks and and reduce land erosion. Although it can be grown just as easily indoors as windowsill plant, being well suited to growing in containers and pots. SUMMARY: CHARACTERISTICS: Foliage – green Features – flowers Shape – low growing, clustering habit Height: under 15cm (6 inch) PROPER CARE: Watering in rest period – sparingly Watering in active growth period – plentifully Light – direct Temperature in rest period – min 10°C max 13°C (50-55°F) Temperature in active growth period – min 16°C max 24°C (61-75°F) Humidity – low Hardiness zone: 9b-11
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Miss Chen
2021年05月20日
Miss Chen
Distribution and habitat: Aeonium arboreum is a subtropical succulent sub-shrub native to the hillsides of the Canary Islands where their natural range includes arid desert regions. It bears rosettes of leaves and large pyramidal panicles of bright yellow flowers in the spring. Each rosette that bloom will die. Description: Aeonium arboreum is a treelike in that its woody stems branch out freely, but it is unlikely to exceed 90cm (3 feet) in height. The 5-8cm (2-3 inch) long leaves of its rosettes are spoon-shaped and shiny green. The leaf rosettes are arranged at the ends of its branches. These plants grow quickly and produce abundant small, star-like, bisexual, yellow flowers on racemes from late winter through early spring. Flowers stems emerge from the center of the rosettes. The rosette die after flowering. If the plant has produced side shoots, they will live on. If not, the entire plant will die off. New plants can be started from the seed. Proper care: In regions where winters are cool, Aeonium arboreum plants appreciate summer sun outdoors and then can grow indoors as houseplants when weather cools. Aeonium arboreum plants are quick growers. Leggy branches do tend to fall over and snap off from the weight of the rosettes. If this happens, the broken stem can be used for propagation. The plants tend to go dormant in the summer and look a little tired sometimes, but they perk up again in the fall. Care should be taken with these plants to avoid overwatering. Light: To keep their form, Aeonium arboreum need full sunlight, even during rest periods when they are not actively growing. Too lithe light will result in elongate, prematurely falling leaves and gap rosettes. Temperature: Aeonium arboreum grow well in warm rooms about 18 to 24°C (64-75°F), but like most other succulents – they are not tropical plants. If possible they should be encouraged to rest during the winter months by being moved to a cool place – preferable around 10°C (50°F). Watering: During the active growth period water Aeonium arboreum moderately – enough to make the potting mixture moist throughout, but allowing the top 1cm (0.4 inch) of the potting mixture to dry out between waterings. During the rest period, allow half of the potting mixture to dry out between waterings. Less than this will result in shriveled leaves. On the other hand, over-watering will encourage soft, untypical leaf growth, which is likely to droop. Feeding: Use liquid fertiliser about every two weeks during the active growth period only. Potting and repotting: Use a porous potting mixture composed of one part coarse sand or a substance such as perlite added to two parts of a standard soil based mixture. Because Aeonium arboreum can grow quickly, the taller kinds should be moved into pots one size larger every year, preferably just as new growth begins. Newly potted plants should be especially firmly pressed into the potting mixture and taller Aeonium arboreum must be staked. Gardening: The Aeonium arboreum thrives in temperatures that range from 4 to 38°C (40-100°F). During the winter, it will grow best with nighttime temperatures of 10°C (50°F). These succulents can be interesting and fun plants to grow, thriving outdoors in areas with dry summers and warm winters. The ideal climates are Mediterranean- relatively dry with seasonal rainfall (preferably in winters, not summers) and no freezes. Growing these plants in the tropics, the hot deserts or where it snows will be very difficult. These plants are suitable for pots and they can be moved in and out depending on weather situations. Plants in containers require more frequent watering than those in ground. Position: Aeonium arboreum grows best in full sun during the cooler months and when grown in coastal areas. When grown inland or during the summer, provide these succulents with afternoon or partial shade. Avoid placing Aeonium arboreum plants in sites with western sun exposures. Soil: Though Aeonium arboreum tolerate a variety of soil types – as long as the soil is well-drained – it prefers light, porous soil. Is recommended to amend the planting site with sand and limestone chips. For container gardening, plant Aeonium arboreum in a moderately moist medium with excellent drainage such as a planting mix that includes 2 parts sand, 1 part loam and 1 part peat moss with a handful of small gravel pieces thrown in to enhance drainage. Although it is recommended to place a thin layer of inorganic mulch, such as ornamental rock, around the plants. Irrigation: Water Aeonium arboreum plants deeply but infrequently. Allow them to dry thoroughly in-between waterings. In the wild, these succulents go dormant in summer, so water sparingly during the hotter months, allowing the soil to dry out between waterings. Watering during the summer is require only in very dry conditions. During the winter months restrict water to about once a month or just enough to keep the foliage from shriveling. In extreme heat, their leaves will curl, to prevent excessive water loss. It growing these succulents along the coast, the humidity and rains or mist will often be enough to satisfy the water needs of these plants. But in dry climates they will probably need to be watered frequently or put on drip irrigation. They do not need to be thoroughly watered, though as the main water-absorbing roots are near the surface with the deeper roots functioning nearly solely as support. Fertilisation: The Aeonium arboreum does not require much fertilizer. Two to three applications of a balanced fertilizer during the growing season will feed these succulents. Propagation: Aeonium arboreum are easy to propagate from tip cuttings. The best time to do this is early in the growth period. Cleanly detach a complete rosette together with 2-4cm (0.8-1.5 inch) of stem, dip the stem into hormone rooting powder to encourage rooting and plant it is a moistened mixture of equal parts peat moss and coarse sand or a substance such as perlite. Cuttings will root in two to there weeks in a warm room – 18 to 24°C (64-75°F) if given bright light and watered only enough to make the potting mixture barely moist. They can then be repotted in the potting mixture that is used for mature plants. Propagate by seed sown at 18-24°C (64-75°F) in spring, but is a slow propagation method. Problems: Aeonium arboreum plants enter dormancy as summer temperatures climb, dropping their foliage rosettes to direct energy toward their stems or growing tips and roots. Leaf loss from seasonal dormancy is temporary and natural and is not accompanied by other worrying symptoms such as wilting, discoloration or stem dieback. Fall rain revives the plants until colder temperatures set in and prompt a second, less profound dormancy period in winter. Though Aeonium arboreum is not particularly susceptible to infestations, insect pests include aphids, mealybugs, scale insects and thrips. Treatment: Combat these insects with horticultural soaps or neem oil. However, care should be taken when using soap spays as too frequent spraying can cause discoloration and lesions on the skin of the plant. If an Aeonium arboreum succulent is planted in a site with poor drainage, its roots may rot. Treatment: Root rot is prevented by using clay pots with good drainage or checking soil percolation prior to planting. Keep the roots moist but never soggy. Temperatures below minus 7°C (20°F) will badly damage the leaf tips and may cause foliage loss. Conversely, direct sun exposure and temperatures above 38°C (100°F) will also cause foliage loss and damage, particularly if the soil is too dry. Slugs, snails, deer, grasshoppers can do some damage to Aeonium arboreum plants and the occasional bird may take a bite. Lifespan: Aeonium arboreum is a monocarpic species, meaning that it dies after flowering. It is expected to live about 3 to 10 years as it reach its full maturity. Although their yellow flowers are attractive, each time they bloom, a rosette dies. Flowering can be avoided by clipping off the flowerheads as they begin to emerge. Also, this succulent can be preserved in time by cutting the terminal rosette every year in late winter and propagating it by planting the rosette at the plant’s base, where it will form roots, creating a new Aeonium arboreum plant. Recommended varieties: Aeonium arboreum var. atropurpureum (Dark Purple Houseleek Tree, Black rose, Black Beauty, Black Tree Aeonium) has a slightly smaller deep purple leaves, but the colouring loses intensity if the plant is grown in full sunlight. Aeonium arboreum cv. Schwarzkopf (Aeonium Blacktop, Black Rose, Black Beauty, Black Tree Aeonium) is a variety with almost black foliage. Aeonium arboreum var. albovariegatum is a variety with white margined leaves. Aeonium arboreum var. atropurpureum forma cristata (Crested Black rose, Crested Black Beauty, Crested Black Tree Aeonium) is a crested succulent shrub that produces magnificent, fun shaped purple, leaf rosettes at the ends of its branches and seems to to change in and out of its crested mode during the years. Companion plants: Consider growing Aeonium arboreum as part of a cactus or succulent display. It can be combined with other plants such as Aloe, Agave, Crassula (jade plants), evergreen Echeverias species or can be combined with other members of its own genus. Note: Aeonium species are often confused with Echeverias species or other several rosette-like succulents such as Dudleyas, Graptopetalums, Pachyverias and Graptoverias species. One thing that sets these plants apart is the way their leaves attach to the stem – they are wrapped around the stem with a fibrous attachment so that when a leaf is pulled away, the stem is intact with only a transverse line showing where the leaf was attached. The other rosette Crassulaceas have succulent attachments and their being pulled off the stem leaves a divot in the stem. Uses and display: Aeonium arboreum make excellent bedding plants, since their architectural shape contrasts well with most other bedding plants. When grown in the garden, Aeonium arboreum command the most attention in masses. Place them along sunny borders or in rockeries or they can be used as part of xeriscaping, being drought tolerant plants. These succulents are often used in architectural city and courtyard gardens in coastal mediterranean sub-tropical climate. In temperate or cooler zones, frost may kill the foliage and the rosette will fall off. If the plant is mulched it will grow a new one in spring. Aeonium arboreum can also be used effectively planted in containers and grown indoors. Consider growing them as part of a cactus or succulent display. Aeonium arboreum is a tall variety with bonsai like look when they get shrubby. They can be trimmed if they get leggy. SUMMARY: CHARACTERISTICS: Foliage – green or coloured Features – flowers Shape – bushy Height: 90cm (3 feet) PROPER CARE: Watering in rest period – sparingly Watering in active growth period – moderately Light – direct Temperature in rest period – min 10°C max 13°C (50-55°F) Temperature in active growth period – min 18°C max 24°C (64-75°F) Humidity – low Hardiness zone: 9b-11
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Miss Chen
2021年05月18日
Miss Chen
Distribution and habitat: Aichryson laxum belongs to the group of hairy herbaceous species. It is endemic to the Canary Islands, occurring at over 1000m (3280 feet) altitudes. It is adapted to dry areas, but prefers partial shade where is less exposed to direct sun, growing as understory plant. Aichryson laxum forms small populations along woods or sheltered by cliffs with its roots embedded on the crevices of volcanic rocks. This plant does not like wet feet, but the local frogs provide it with minimum humidity necessary to sustain its vegetation. Aichryson laxum is annual or biennial, but it will produce volunteer seedlings around itself after flowering. This species is also naturalised in Portugal. Is is a pretty rare species in culture may be because of its potential short life.
Description: Aichryson laxum is probably one of the most attractive species within this genus due to its large ovoid dark green leaves which are very hairy on both sides. It is a succulent that is freely branching shrublets. Of dwarf-tree-like appearance, it seldom grows over 30cm (12 inch) high. Its many thin, forked branches bear spoon-shaped leaves on short leaf stalk. The leaves form rosettes at the stem ends and blooms in the center of the rosette in numerous buds grouped. Clusters of many pale yellow flowers are regularly produced. This plant is liable to die after it has finished flowering. Houseplant care: Aichryson laxum is a fast growing plant, but tends to lose their lower leaves. In order to promote vegetative growth, the inflorescence should be cut off in time, otherwise this species will naturally grow as a biannual, dieing after flowering. Light: Provide bright light with some direct sunlight. Aichryson laxum grow spindly and fail to bloom if they are grown in poor light. Temperature: Aichryson laxum plants do well in wide range of temperatures. Under normal room conditions, Aichryson laxum that survive after flowering grows continuously. If they are kept in place where the temperature falls below 13°C (55°F) – and where the light is poor -, however, they will have a short winter rest period. Watering: During the active growth period water Aichryson laxum moderately – enough to make the potting mixture moist throughout, but allowing the top half of the potting mixture to dry out between waterings. During the rest period, if any, water only enough to keep the potting mixture from drying out completely. Feeding: In areas where light and temperature are low in winter (and plants have a rest period), apply standard liquid fertiliser every two weeks during the active growth period only. Elsewhere, Aichryson laxum plants may be fed throughout the year. Potting and repotting: Use a soil based based potting mixture. Because Aichryson laxum have small root systems, they do not need large pots but should be able to mature and flower in 10 or 13cm (4-5 inch) pots. If necessary, move small surviving plants into pots one size larger in spring. Gardening: Aichryson laxum can tolerate minimum temperature as low as 2°C (36°F) when planted in ground. Position: In culture Aichryson laxum plants are placed in light shade or sunny positions, but according with their natural habitat they will prefer light shade, especially in hot climates. The leaf colour varies depending on exposure to sunlight. In the shade they are green and in full sun they become slightly brownish green or khaki. Soil: The planting substrate for Aichryson laxum plants should be sandy, gritty-sandy, loamy, sandy-loamy, clay, sandy clay or loamy clay soil, a well drained soil with mild acidity (around 6.1 to 6.5 pH). Irrigation: Aichryson laxum prefer moderately moist soil at their roots. These plants will thrive in humid atmosphere. Short showers are preferred to deep irrigation. Allow the soil to dry out between waterings. They tolerate a cool, frost-free winter if kept fairly dry. They are drought-tolerant plants protected by the hairy leaves. Fertilising: The Aichryson laxum does not require much fertiliser. Two to three applications of a balanced fertiliser during the growing season will feed these succulents. Propagation: Small tip cuttings root easily if taken in spring or summer. Take shoots 8-10cm (3-4 inch) long, strip them of their lower leaves and plant them in a slightly moistened potting mixture of equal parts peat moss and coarse sand or perlite. Give the cuttings bright light and just enough water to prevent the potting mixture from drying out. Rooting should take place in three to four weeks. When rooted, plant the cuttings in 8cm (3 inch) pots of soil-based mixture and treat them as adult plants. Seeds are produced in abundance and will easily sow themselves. Problems: If too many leaves seems to be falling, it may be happening because Aichryson laxum plants are probably getting to much hot, dry air or scorching sun. Treatment: Move them to a more suitable position. Lifespan: Aichryson laxum tends to behave like an annual or biennial. This plant may die after flowering – but by no means always. Uses and display: Aichryson laxum plant is attractive to bees, butterflies and/or birds. As succulent plant, it is suitable for xeriscaping or rockeries, suitable for shaded parts of the landscape. Also it is used as houseplant. Consider growing it as part of a cactus or succulent display.
SUMMARY: CHARACTERISTICS: Foliage – green Features – flowers Shape – bushy Height: 30-45cm (12-18 inch) PROPER CARE: Watering in active growth period – moderately Light – bright Temperature in active growth period – min 16°C max 24°C (61-75°F) Humidity – low Hardiness zone: 9b-12
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Miss Chen
2021年05月16日
Miss Chen
Distribution and habitat: Bryophyllum daigremontianum is a succulent perennial plant native to the Fiherenana River valley and Androhibolava mountains in southwest Madagascar. It has been introduced to numerous tropical and subtropical regions, such as Florida, Puerto Rico, Hawaii, parts of the Canary Islands and Australia. Like other members of the genus Bryophyllum, it is able to propagate vegetatively from plantlets (epiphyllous buds) that develop on the leaf edges. The plantlets that grow on the edges of each leaf fall easily and root wherever they land.
It is commonly found growing on gravelly and sandy soils. This succulent plant is a weed of bushland and disturbed sites such as roadsides, along fence lines, around rubbish tips and abandoned rural dwellings. It also occurs frequently along creeks and rivers where it is spread by floodwaters. Description: Bryophyllum daigremontianum grows from a single unbranched stem 45-90cm (18-35 inch) tall, which carries opposite pairs of fleshy, shiny, lance-shaped leaves that are 10-25cm (4-10 inch) long. The leaves grow at an 8° angle to the stem and are bluish green with purple blotched undersides. The saw-toothed leaf edges curl slightly inward. The tiny plantlets that form in the gaps between the teeth often have tiny aerial roots attached. One leaf can carry as many as 50 such plantlets in a single season. Pink flowers, which bloom only on mature plant, are roughly tubular, 2cm (0.8 inch) long and pendent. They are carried in rather flat clusters at the top of 30cm (12 inch) tall stalks in late autumn and early winter. The plant dies after blooming. Flowering is, however, not an annual event and will occur sporadically if at all. Particularly in climates with distinct seasonal temperature differences, flowering is most frequently observed at the beginning of a warm season. Bryophyllum daigremontianum take a year or two to mature. Houseplant care: Bryophyllum daigremontianum requires minimal care and can tolerate dry conditions and high temperatures. It is an unusu SUMMARY:
CHARACTERISTICS: Foliage – green Features – flowers Shape – upright Height: 90-120cm (36-48 inch) PROPER CARE: Watering in rest period – sparingly Watering in active growth period – moderately Light – bright Temperature in rest period – min 16°C max 24°C (61-75°F) Temperature in active growth period – min 16°C max 24°C (61-75°F) Humidity – low Hardiness zone: 9b-11
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Miss Chen
2021年05月14日
Miss Chen
Black mage is a kind of succulent plant with unique and beautiful plant type. It usually blooms, but the phenomenon of flowering is relatively rare. After each flowering, the plant will wither and die. It is best to ensure sufficient light treatment every day during the growth period. It needs to be placed in the shade in summer, and control a certain temperature difference, which is conducive to the differentiation of flower buds.
1、 Black mage will blossom Black mage is a kind of succulent plant with unique plant type, but many friends don't know whether black mage can blossom. In fact, it blooms, but the phenomenon of flowering is relatively rare. Even some individual varieties don't blossom. After each flowering, the flowers are very small, the color is mainly yellow, and the plants usually die after flowering.
2、 The key points of maintenance to promote the blossom of black mage 1. Shade and sunscreen Black mage likes to grow in a sunny environment, but in the strong light season in summer, it should be placed in the half shade, but it should not be placed too long, otherwise the branches and leaves will appear spots, and the color is dim. Long sunshine treatment should be given in spring and autumn and winter, and the daily illumination time should not be less than 7-8 hours, so as to facilitate the differentiation of flower buds. 2. Temperature change Black mage likes to grow in a warm climate. The suitable temperature for its growth is about 18-26 ℃. If it is lower than 10 ℃ in winter, it will not grow well. In autumn, the temperature can be controlled at about 25 ℃ in the daytime and 12 ℃ in the evening. This temperature difference environment is conducive to the differentiation of flower buds. If the air temperature is too low, it needs to be treated with light warming. 3. Sufficient nutrients Will the black mage blossom The black mage will grow faster under the condition of sufficient nutrients. When he goes to the pot, he can add an appropriate amount of plant ash or bone powder as long-term fertilizer. During the growth period, he can apply fertilizer according to the growth trend. He can apply a thin compound fertilizer solution every month to provide the nutrients needed for flowering.
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Miss Chen
2021年05月12日
Miss Chen
Flower Pots - Terra CottaFlower pots have had various uses over time: moving plants to new locations — sometimes great distances, starting seeds, patio gardening, cultivation of indoor plants, and often for year-round growth in very cold climates, which usually have a short growing season. During the 18th century Josiah Wedgwood manufactured flower pots that were as gorgeous as his China dinnerware; they were often chosen as table centerpieces. Flower pots were historically made from terra cotta; coarse, porous clay fired in a kiln and used mainly for vases, roofing and architectural purposes. Known and made use of from as early as 3,000 B.C., terra cotta died out when the Roman Empire collapsed; it was revived in Italy and Germany in the 1400’s and remains popular to this day. Clay pots are commonly used for both house plants and outdoor plants; the unglazed clay allows air and moisture to penetrate the pot; they also act as a wick to take excess moisture from the soil, possibly preventing root rot and improving plant health care. They are an excellent choice for Roses, African Violets, Succulent plants, tropical plants (including Palm Plants), and there are even special terra cotta flower pots made for Orchid care. Flower Pots - Metal Kit Alternative Flower Pots Presently we have commercial flower pots made of many materials such as plastic, wood, stone, and biodegradable materials. Recycling plastic food containers or tin cans by pounding drainage holes in the bottom with a hammer and nail also gives us flower pots. Flower Pots - Terra Cotta Pot in a Wrought Iron Tricycle During difficult financial periods we have often used tin cans for flower pots; you can decorate them by painting or gluing on tiny objects or just wrap with foil or pretty paper and tie a bow – voila! – beautiful and unique! Other ideas for flower pots, planters or just as garden ornaments include baskets, pails, coffee/tea pots, tea kettles, tubs or mailboxes – just stretch your imagination and use whatever fits in with your indoor, yard, patio or garden design. Flower Pots - Hanging Hanging planters are great for Spider Plants and similar types of houseplants, but they need to be placed where heads won’t be bumped; hanging them on fence panels adds a nice touch and they can usually be seen before you crack your skull! Hanging planters are also a good idea for poisonous plants because they can be kept out of reach of children and pets. Flower pots usually have a hole in the bottom for drainage; sometimes there is a saucer placed beneath the pot to catch the water – often plants can use this water by taking it up through the root system. There are plants however, that should not be saturated and many that should not have water remain in the saucer even if they can be saturated – know the watering instructions for each plant you plan to grow. Flower Pots - Self Watering Planter More recently flower pots have been designed with an automatic watering system and their own reservoir for water storage, this innovation is particularly convenient if you must be away from home. Some Indoor plant stands, like the one in Figure 6, hold an assortment of flower pots and are self watering. Container Gardening Container gardening is as old as Rome, with the boxes also made of terra cotta. In the first century B.C most Romans cultivated their small cottage gardens to provide food, medicinal herbs, and flowers. Flower Pots - French Style Window Box Peasants had little if any gardening space and began to grow the plants they needed in window boxes. Eventually they were so popular that the rich upper classes began to develop balcony and rooftop gardens – elaborate with vines, shrubs, flowers and even fishponds. The window boxes kept their popularity and spread to Europe and later to America. English cottage gardens boasted wire hay baskets as a new form to grow plants in at the windows; France often used wrought iron window boxes like the one pictured in Figure 7. Flower Pots - Planter Box Large planter boxes for vegetable gardening can be built at home, such as the one in Figure 8, constructed for peppers and tomatoes. Cyclamen also thrive in planters like these. Original garden ideas can be checked for appropriate lighting, watering, fertilizing and aesthetic appeal at your local garden center. If you need fresh opinions or just suggestions also look through books at the library or search online. If you don’t have a gardeners’ supply center nearby, Amazon.com is an excellent source of books for garden ideas but also offers: tools, soil, fertilizers, herbicide/pesticide sprays, gloves, flower pots, fence panels, planter boxes, garden ornaments, plant pots, and window boxes along with the seeds or growing plants – and almost anything else you could need. If you love to garden and are creative, I’m sure you’ll find things to put your foliage and flowering plants in that may be unusual but very useful and attractive in a specific setting.
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Miss Chen
2021年05月08日
Miss Chen
Distribution and habitat: Phyllostachys aurea is a running type of bamboo native to China which was introduced in Taiwan and in Japan long ago. These cold hardy bamboo was naturalised in Indonesia, New Zealand, southern USA, Australia and Hawaii. Description: Phyllostachys aurea are easily identified by their characteristic compressed internodes in the lower part of the canes which have a tortoiseshell-like appearance. This internodal compression result in shorter heights and thicker cane diameters (relative to height) than many other Phyllostachys species. The canes are typically green, but will turn yellow in full or partial sun, and deepen into a gold-orange colour as the plant matures. Branching and foliage tend to start lower to the ground than many other Phyllostachys, but some prefer to cut off lower branches to show off the interesting ‘tortoise shell’ lower part of the canes. The leaves are clustered and produced on short shoots which grow from the joints on the branches. They consist of a leaf sheath 25-35mm long, which surrounds the stem and a spreading leaf blade. The base of the leaf blade is very narrow and stalk-like in appearance. Leaf sheaths are mostly hairless, except near their margins and where the sheath meets the leaf blade there is a tiny membranous structure about 1mm long topped with long hairs. On either side of this structure there are sometimes also 1-3 larger bristles. The leaf blades, 5-15cm (2-6 inch) long and 5-22mm wide are elongated in shape, may be either hairless or softly hairy and have rough but entire margins. Flowers and seeds are very rarely produced, if ever. When produced, flowers occur in spikelets up to 5cm (2 inch) long with 8 to 12 flowers. Most reports indicate that Phyllostachys aurea produces masses of flowers sporadically and synchronously, but reported intervals between mass flowering events range from 7 to 30 years. When they do come into flower most of the plants energies are directed into producing seed and consequently the plant is severely weakened. They sometimes die after flowering, but if left alone they will usually recover though they will look very poorly for a few years. Phyllostachys aurea is a long-lived bamboo with upright stems usually growing 2-8m (6-26 feet) tall, but occasionally reaching up to 12m (40 feet) in height. Plants form dense or loose clumps and spread rapidly via creeping underground stems, with the upright stems being produced from their joints. They will grow in large thickets or groves if left alone.
Gardening: Phyllostachys aurea is cultivated as an ornamental plant for gardens. It is the most commonly cultivated bamboo in the United States. Growing rigidly upright, this bamboo is one of the best for hedges and for planting next to driveways and walkways. Phyllostachys aurea can be an aggressive spreader in hot climates, where care must be used in its placement. It is a fast grower in warm climate zones, but less aggressive in colder climates. Provides a thick impenetrable grove when untrimmed. In some micro climates of zone 6, this species does not remain evergreen. This beautiful bamboo will drop foliage when temps drop to around 15°C bellow 0 (5°F). Canes will most likely be killed when temps drop to 20°C below 0 (-5°F). Unless temps drop to 34°C bellow 0 (-30°F) the root system of established well mulched groves will put up new canes each spring. But, these plants will need a frost-free period of at least 26 weeks to survive. Of course, growth rate depends a lot on soil, climate, food and water. Small plants are slow to get going, so starting off with a bigger plant will grow much faster. Location: Phyllostachys aurea will grow in sparsely wooded secondary forests and does best in full sun or part shade. It is best to protect these plants from cold drying winds. Soil: Phyllostachys aurea growth is considered best in rich, deep, well-drained sands or in moist, deep loams with a pH between 5 and 7,5. These plants need a soil depth of at least 36cm (14 inch) for good growth. Although, it may persist on a variety of soils, stem diameter and height are likely reduced in fine textured and/or poorly drained soils. These plants should be planted where they can be monitored and contained. The use of barriers, sunk to a depth of 60cm (24 inch) may contain their spread. Irrigation: Give to this bamboo species plenty of water in warmer months. These plants will be less likely to suffer from overwatering. Phyllostachys aurea prefers moist soil and established plants can tolerate drought. Fertilising: Fertilise Phyllostachys aurea in spring with decayed animal manure. Container plants: Phyllostachys aurea can be grown in containers. When grown in containers these plants will not exceed 2m (6 feet) in height. The containers should be at least 30cm (12 inch) diameter and filled with good moisture retaining compost based on peat, leaf mould and charcoal. They need to be kept well watered. Spray the foliage when grown indoors. Fertilise monthly with liquid fertiliser if used in a container. Propagation: Phyllostachys aurea by division in spring as new growth commences. Divisions from the open ground do not transplant well, so will need careful treatment and nurturing under cover in pots until at least late spring. Division is best carried out in wet weather and small divisions will establish better than large clumps. Alternatively, take large divisions from established clumps and transfer them straight to their permanent positions, misting or drenching them frequently until they are established. Also, Phyllostachys aurea can be propagated by basal cane cuttings in spring. Plant pieces of runners in early spring, just as new shoots are bursting into life. Keep them continuously moist and these soon root in the pot and continue growing. Problems: Bamboo is a strong and resilient plant and is more likely to die from lack or too much water. The most common pests are most likely biological and come in forms of insects such as aphids, scales, mealybugs and mites. Treatment: Use adequate pesticide to combat these insects. It is essential that the pesticide to be applied to both leaf surfaces. When chemical application is not feasible, infested plants can be cut down and infested debris destroyed to avoid reinfestation. Note: In sub-tropical and warmer temperate regions, Phyllostachys aurea is problematic in untended areas, near gardens, along roadsides and waterways and in urban bushland. Rhizome growth by these bamboo clones can result in the development of dense thickets and colonies. A single Phyllostachys aurea clump can produce up to 15 km (9.3 miles) of stems in its lifetime. This bamboo once established, is very aggressive in both its rate of growth as well as the sprouting of new stems. Spread is often rapid in all directions from the point of establishment.
Management and control: This bamboo is fast growing and will quickly spread via underground rhizomes. Despite containment efforts, the rhizomes of Phyllostachys aurea will often find their way out of confinement to infest nearby areas. The first step in preventative control of Phyllostachys aurea is to limit planting and removal of existing plants within the landscape. Care must be exercised to prevent seed spread and dispersal during the removal process. Cutting and mowing can be used on small infestations or where herbicides cannot be used. Cut plants as close to the ground as possible. Repeat several times throughout the growing season as plants resprout. Monitoring and re-treatment will be necessary for several growing seasons until the energy reserves in the rhizomes are exhausted. Foliar applications are most effective if canes are cut and herbicides applied to newly expanded leaves. Air temperature should be above 18°C (65°F) to ensure absorption of herbicides. Uses and display: Phyllostachys aurea is cultivated for its edible shoots in China; it has the sweetest taste of the genus. It has been widely planted as an ornamental in the Mediterranean and seems to be naturalizing there. This is a good companion species to grow in a woodland because the plants have shallow root systems that do not compete with deep tree roots. Grown for its screening abilities, Phyllostachys aurea provides visual as well as noise barriers. It is a prime choice for privacy screening or a bamboo fence. Also, this bamboo is suitable for planting in tubs or planter boxes: balconies, patios or indoor displays of bamboo create an exotic atmosphere. Container Plants Height: 2m (6 feet) Ground Planting Height: 8-12 (26-40 feet) Hardiness zone: 6a-11
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Miss Chen
2021年05月06日
Miss Chen
Houseplant care: Indoor cultivation of Camellia japonica is bound to be plagued by some problems as they are very sensitive to any change in their position, temperature, humidity and moisture. They drop their buds easily, especially if they do not get enough water when they are forming flower and leaf buds (and in any case, are unlikely to flower well indoors, unless they are grown in a cool, conservatory-type situation). In warm weather, they are better off being transferred to the garden, if possible (the pot can be buried in the soil for the duration) or to a semi-shady spot on a verandah.
Light: Grow Camellia japonica in bright filtered light throughout the year. Temperature: In the dry warmth of the average home Camellia japonica will not flower, but they grow well in cool porches, patios and plant rooms such as conservatories. An ideal temperature during the bud-forming stage (autumn and winter) is between 7 and 16°C (45-61°F). Camellia japonica cannot survive for long time indoor temperature above 18°C (64°F). Stand the pots on trays of moist pebbles and mist-spray the plants at least once a day. Watering: During the active growth period water plentifully but never allowing the pot to stand in water. During the rest period – about six weeks from the end of the flowering season until late spring or autumn (depending on the variety) – water only enough to keep the potting mixture from drying out. Feeding: Apply standard liquid fertiliser every two weeks during the active growth period. Potting and repoting: Use equal parts of peat moss, coarse leaf mould and a lime-free soil based potting mixture. Move plants into slightly larger pots in autumn whenever necessary. After maximum convenient size pot has been reached, top-dress the plant with fresh potting mixture at the end of each rest period. Do not repot plant in flower. Gardening: Camellia japonica will grow in most areas apart from the hot tropics. This plant is normally hard to minus 12°C (10°F), but sudden changes in temperature can damage the foliage or kill open flower buds. A light trim every two or three years is adequate, rather than an annual prune. It will reduce the canopy and force the flowering growth out, making the bloom more visible and will lower down the shrub. As an optional practice, can be removed some flower buds (called “debudding”) to promote larger, showier blooms. To do this, simply remove a bud that is touching another or remove all the interior buds and just leave the ones on the tips of the branches. Location: Camellia japonica need protection from direct sun and strong winds. They grow best in partial shade as they do not like early morning or late afternoon sun. A planting site under tall pine trees or on the north or west side of a building is ideal. The plants grown in full sun may develop leaf scorch. In the winter Camellia japonica need protection from direct sun and drying winds. Soil: Camellia japonica prefer a slightly acid (pH 5.5-6.0), humus-rich soil with good drainage. Incorporate a 5 to 8cm (2-3 inch) layer of organic matter such as pine bark mulch before planting. In areas with alkaline soils, they may need to be grown in containers with potting mix for acid loving plants. Late fall to winter is the best time to plant or transplant Camellia japonica. Space plants according to their mature size. Space plants about 1.8m (6 feet) apart when planting a hedge. Individual holes should be two to three times as wide as the root ball. The depth of the hole should be the same as the root ball. Place the plant root ball into the planting hole and fill the hole with soil, tamping it down as it is filled. Avoid planting this plant too deep. Water heavily, to settle the soil and remove air pockets in the soil. After planting, mulch the plants with a 8 to 10cm (3-4 inch) of pine bark to help maintain the moisture. Irrigation: Camellia japonica plants are moderate drinkers and they are not particularly drought-tolerant, although older plants are more adaptable. Keep Camellia japonica well watered, particularly when they are in bud or in bloom or when the weather is hot and dry. The soil should be kept evenly moist at all times. Special attention needs new planted Camellia japonica. Keep it well watered until it is well established. In a high rainfall area it will probably require raised beds, to allow any excess water to run away easily. Fertilise: Camellia japonica are generally not heavy feeders, but if growth is weak or the leaves begin to turn yellow, they should be fertilised with a slow release fertiliser in late winter or very early in the spring when new growth begins. Always water fertilised plants thoroughly after the application. At the same time, mulch the plant for enriching the soil and maintaining the soil moisture. Propagation: Camellia japonica are mostly propagated by cuttings. However, this procedure is quite difficult to carry through successfully and the amateur gardener is best advised to leave propagation to the experts and purchase a healthy young tree from a reputable nursery or plant supplier. Propagation from cuttings is done with softwood cuttings taken from new growth in early summer, but it is a slow process. Each cutting should have at least 5 nodes. Remove the lowest leaves and trim the remaining leaves by one half before inserting the cutting into a sand and peat moss mix. Use rooting hormone to stimulate roots growth. Insert the cuttings one-third to one-half their length into the medium. Maintain the vertical orientation of the stem. The cuttings should never be allowed to dry out and should be kept moist at all times. Cover the cuttings with plastic bag and place in indirect light. When new growth emerge is sigh that the plant have been rooted (will take few months to root). At this moment remove the bag and water the cuttings enough to keep the potting mixture just moist. The fastest and most reliable method of propagating new Camellia japonica plants is by air layering. This method will allow much larger clones to be created. Air layering of these plants can be done at any time of the year but the best results are accomplished if the process is done in the spring when the plant is actively growing. Select a limb to air-layer. Cut through the bark a section of about 3cm (1 inch) at approximately (18-24 inch) from the top of the plant. The idea is to remove the bark on this section. After pealing off the bark, a green film like coating will surround the woody part of stem which have to be removed so that the bark will not grow back. Use a knife to scarp it away down to the woody part of stem. Use sphagnum peat moss completely saturated with water as medium for roots to grow on. Squeeze the excessive water from the sphagnum moss to make this to be moist but not wet and arrange it around the prepared stem for air layering (the segment with the bark pealed out). Wrap a piece or plastic around the sphagnum moss ball to keep the ball in place and preserve its moisture. Finally wrap the entire thing in aluminum foil to protect the ball. Always keep the ball loose. It takes 3-6 months for the air-layering to establish sufficient roots to survive when is cut off from the parent plant. Once enough roots are formed the next step is to sever the air-layer from the original plant, cutting just below the root ball. Plant the new plant in a container (better for the new plant to establish quicker after severing from the parent plant) or in ground. Furthermore, treat the new plat as a mature Camellia japonica.
Camellia seeds harvested from hybrid plants may be sterile and those that are viable may produce plants that are not true to their parent. Soak Camellia seeds in warm water for 24 hours before sowing them indoors during the spring or fall. Maintain a temperature in the growing medium of 21 to 24°C (70-75°F) until germination, which takes 1-2 months. Problems: Scale and spider mites are the main insect problems with Camellia japonica. Treatment: Treat with insecticidal soap, spray or alcohol. To help prevent the fungus known as petal blight, rake up and remove fallen blooms and petals. If the leaf veins are turning yellow, the soil pH may be too high. To find out, conduct a soil test and adjust as needed. Camellias naturally shed older leaves, so a small amount of leaf loss is normal. Large amounts of dead, yellowed, or blotchy leaves can be a sign of disease or pest. Buying tips: Inspect plants closely before buying. Look for wounds or scars at the base of the plant that can become cankerous and cause the plant to die. Check the root system as well. Look for white roots. If the roots are brown, the plant have been poorly cared for or may have a soil borne disease.
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Miss Chen
2021年05月05日
Miss Chen
Why are other people's succulents Variety of colors, fat, cute and stylish; Your fleshy is just a dish, grow into a dog? The only reason is: you! Do not! meeting! support! but! You are not to blame! Today I will teach you some methods Let flower friends take their own fleshy Raise more beautifully, more beautifully! ps: Note that the following methods are mainly for sedum succulents
Get more sun! Get more sun! Want to be more fleshy and fatter and beautiful The most important thing is to get more sun, In addition to shading in summer, we need to bask in spring and autumn The longer the drying time, the better, It’s better to be more than 8 hours, and not to dry through the glass, It’s the direct sunlight outside, which doesn’t work well through the glass. Because glass blocks a lot of ultraviolet rays. Of course, if you don’t have an open-air breeding environment at home, Put it in the place where the light is the strongest and the longest time in the home, show! show! show! Some scented meat, The scent will only appear after drying! The longer the sun is, the stronger the fragrance!
1. In summer, the sun is too violent and you can’t just dry it outdoors. Need to shade or move indoors. 2. In winter, the outdoor temperature is lower than -3 degrees and can not be watered and dried outdoors. Easy to frostbite, The pot soil must be kept dry before it can be dried outside.
Water less! Water less! Many people think that watering can make the flesh fatter Actually it's not like this, Too much water will only make the flesh grow higher up blindly In this case, it will be lost. It’s not that you can gain weight with more water, Only after controlling the water Let the flesh have the concept of lack of water, Long time Flesh will use its own leaves to store water, The leaves will gradually thicken But it can't be too dry, If it is too dry, the leaves will also shrivel So this watering must be well controlled! In addition to the fleshy flesh that is still in the slow-rooting state, When the root system has grown, Generally, watering 1-2 times a month during the growing season is enough. Pour it through every time! Water in the morning or evening!
Precautions 1. The seedlings need more peat, Because Xiao Miao’s water storage capacity is weak, The old piles can be more granular, so that the plant type is better! 2. The growth of plants can be directly proportional to the ratio of particles, The bigger the plant, the more particles you can add! Watering too! Xiao Miao can not control the water!
Great temperature difference! Great temperature difference! If you want succulents to have beautiful colors The temperature difference is also a very important reason. If spring and autumn The outdoor temperature difference between morning and evening exceeds 15℃, open-air maintenance, Within three days, the whole pot of fleshy meat will change color. Of course, this is basically dependent on the sky, Unless there are special conditions at home, temperature control can be carried out. Some methods of manually controlling the temperature difference are basically not mature, So it’s better to do the previous things well, Your succulents must not be ugly.
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Miss Chen
2021年04月29日
Miss Chen
Now more and more flower friends are no longer blindly raising succulents, but are prepared to maintain them. Today we will talk about how long the succulents are in the sun after they are potted. In fact, this involves a process of slowing down the seedlings, and This process is also very important for the balcony family to raise succulents, because the slow seedling is not good, and the succulents in the back will wilt and wither more and more, and then reprocess the pots to form a vicious circle.
Generally speaking, the succulents can be basked in the sun about 1 week after they are potted, but it is not directly placed in a well-lit place to bask in the sun, but step by step. Let’s briefly talk about the process of potting the succulents that we bought.
For newly bought succulents, we first clean up the old soil of the root system. You can swing the roots back and forth in the water basin. When you see the white root system, it is enough. It is not recommended to rinse with a tap. After washing off the old soil, we can properly repair the roots and cut off some of the withered roots. If you think the roots are healthy, you don’t need to cut them. The following is disinfection. If you can, you can use potassium permanganate and multi-bacteria. Soak a solution such as Ling, Chlorothalonil, if you don’t have it, you don’t need to soak!
Put the succulents in a cool place to dry. It doesn’t take too long to feel that the roots are not watery, usually about 2 hours, and then it’s potted. The succulents do not need to be watered after potting. To explain, if the soil we use for potting is moist soil, it is in a state of moisture but not high water content. After potting, place the succulents in a place where light is scattered. Don't move around during the process, this is also very important, when it doesn't exist.
After about a week, you can water and gradually give light to the seedlings. If the soil dries out during the process of slowing down the seedlings, you can spray a little water, or give a little water along the edge of the pot to keep the soil a little bit moist. That's it.
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