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Miss Chen
2021年07月19日
Miss Chen
Sweet alyssum is a colorful carpet of tiny flowers that can be used to blanket your garden or landscape. Native to Europe, the low-growing foliage grows quickly, covering the ground with tiny cross-shaped, four-petal flowers within two months of being planted. Its gray-green leaves are slightly hairy, narrow, and lance-shaped. Easy to grow from plant or seed, sweet alyssum is a cool-season flower that can be set out in early spring once all danger of frost has passed (in frost-free climates, sweet alyssum can also be grown throughout the fall and winter). Most varieties will fade in the heat but bloom again in the fall.
Botanical Name Lobularia maritima Common Names Sweet alyssum, alyssum, carpet flower Plant Type Herbaceous perennial Mature Size 3–9 in. tall, 6–12 in. wide Sun Exposure Full sun, partial shade Soil Type Moist but well-drained Soil pH Neutral to acidic Bloom Time Spring, Fall Flower Color White, pink, purple Hardiness Zones 5–9 (USDA) Native Areas Europe Toxicity Non-toxic Sweet Alyssum Care Sweet alyssum is nearly unmatched when it comes to ease of care, and is hardy to both heat and drought. The flowers have a lively, honey-like fragrance and are actually members of the mustard family—they will self-sow and can provide bright color year-after-year, especially in milder climates. Sweet alyssum is generally problem-free, although aphids can become a pest, especially when the plants are under stress. As sweet alyssum plants spread, they create a living mulch under taller plants. You can use sweet alyssum along edges, in the garden, or to fill nooks and crannies on walkways and walls. The tight, free-flowering plants are also great in hanging baskets and containers. Light Sweet alyssum loves full sun, but it does not like prolonged dry periods. If your region is especially hot and dry, a slightly shaded area will work best for this plant, though you should keep in mind that it can get stem rot or leaf blight if too much shade prevents the leaves and soil from completely drying out. Generally, you should aim to plant your sweet alyssum somewhere where it can get six to eight hours of sunlight a day. Soil Sweet alyssum plants prefer soils that are of medium moisture and well-draining. They're tolerant of many different planting locations and can even be found on sandy beaches and dunes—though they can also grow on cultivated fields, walls, slopes, and even in cracks in sidewalks or walls. The plants will do poorly in boggy soil or where drainage is a particular problem. Water Provide your sweet alyssum plants with at least an inch of water every week, watering them more frequently during hot or dry spells. Make sure the water drains well, otherwise the plant is susceptible to rot. If you plant your sweet alyssum atop stone (or anywhere that dries out quickly), you will need to provide extra water—the same holds true of hot or dry weather. Temperature and Humidity In temperate weather, gardeners may be able to grow sweet alyssum all year long, though the actual plants themselves are short-lived. Typically, they self-seed so much that while it seems as though the same plants are surviving all year long, the reality is that new seedlings are filling in. Sweet alyssum plants repeat bloom, although many varieties tend to stop flowering in heat, only to often pick back up again in the fall. In areas of high humidity, you should compensate by reducing the amount of water given to plants. Fertilizer Typically, in-ground sweet alyssum plants do not need any fertilizer unless your soil is poor. Plants grown in containers will need monthly feedings using a water-soluble fertilizer for the container plants. Sweet Alyssum Varieties There are several common varieties of sweet alyssum: 'Easter Bonnet': An early blooming variety, typically found in lavender or white 'New Carpet of Snow': A low-growing variety, covered in petite white flowers 'Pastel Carpet': A varietal whose blooms blend pink, lavender, and cream 'Snow Crystals': A tidy, mounding variety with translucent white flowers
How to Grow Sweet Alyssum From Seed You can start sweet alyssum from seed or plant, both of which are widely available at nurseries (though some new cultivars are not available as seeds). To start from seed, simply scatter the seeds atop the soil and press them down lightly so they make good contact with the dirt but are still exposed to light. Keep the soil moist until germination, then water whenever the soil feels dry. You can direct seed outdoors once the soil feels warm to the touch or start alyssum seed indoors about eight weeks before your last frost date (do not transplant until after all danger of frost). Alyssum is somewhat frost-tolerant once established, but tender transplants are not hardy enough for frost. Pruning Deadheading sweet alyssum will keep the plants flowering—they will set new buds quickly. If you have a large drift of plants, shearing them by one-third would be an easier option than deadheading. Some varieties will readily re-seed themselves, but the plants tend to revert to the somewhat gangly species, so pruning will aid in that.
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Miss Chen
2021年07月17日
Miss Chen
Pilea cadierei is an evergreen perennial in the nettle family that is commonly called the aluminum plant. One look at its leaves, which look like they have been dry brushed by someone let loose with a gallon of aluminum paint, and you will see where it gets its name. It is because of this startling color, which contrasts so well with the dark green foliage, that the plant is so prized. The Aluminum plant was first introduced to the western world by famed French botanists Andres Guillaumin and François Gagnepain in 1928 while researching the flora of Vietnam, while it was still a colony of France. Named after countryman and fellow botanist, Father Léopold Michel Cadière, who was a famed missionary in what was called Indochina at the time. The plant was finally introduced in the United States but did not become popular till the houseplant boom of the 1970s, where it has stayed a favorite ever since. It is no wonder why when you look at the silver streaks on each of its leaves. Plus, given the right growing conditions, it is a great plant for houseplant novices. The Aluminum plant does occasionally flower, but the tiny white blooms are not ornamental. You will want to remove them as soon as they bloom to conserve energy for the impressive foliage growth. This plant does not get very large, twelve inches tall in a grouping cluster of stems. There is a dwarf cultivar available as well, called, Pilea cadierei ‘Minima’ which only reaches four inches in height. It does have a spreading habit. Though it is most often used as a potted plant, it should be noted that Pilea cadierei can be used near ponds, especially in warmer areas. On the topic of water, you will sometimes see this species sold as an aquarium plant. You should avoid using it in aquariums, however. It is not a true aquatic plant and will die eventually. If it remains submerged it will make a mess, mean you need to clean your tank more frequently, and it isn't a good investment. If you want a plant for your fish’s house, buy a plant that is a true aquatic. Botanical Name Pilea cadierei Common Name Aluminum Plant, Watermelon Pilea Plant Type Herbaceous perennial Mature Size 1 - 2 ft Sun Exposure At least four hours of indirect, sun a day Soil Type Sandy soil mixture Soil pH Slight acidic to neutral Bloom Time Rarely blooms Flower Color White Hardiness Zones 9b-11, USA Native Area North Africa Toxicity Toxic for cats and dogs. Aluminum Plant Care The Aluminum plant is easy-to-care-for but can get picky when it comes to its growing conditions. That should not dissuade you from growing this amazing plant. The most common issue you may have is checking the plant for overly abundant root growth each spring. When you first purchase the plant, it is a good practice to transplant it into a larger pot than necessary. The aluminum plant’s roots will actually outgrow your pot and break through its container. Head this off the first year by potting larger, then each subsequent year by transplanting into an even larger pot. Light When growing the aluminum plant indoors make sure the plant receives bright, indirect light for at least four hours each day. You need to be certain it does not receive too much sun, as this will scorch the leaves, leading to browning. Outdoor plants should be planted in partial shade. Soil Choose a well-draining soil that is rich in organic matter. You do not need to worry about pH with an aluminum plant. The biggest concern is drainage. You want a very rich soil that can nourish the plant, retain moisture but also drain well. You are looking for the goldilocks of soil. A brand name moisture control potting mix is a good solution. Water When it is growing season over the spring and summer, evenly moist soil is recommended for this plant. A good rule to follow is if the top quarter inch is dry it is time to water your plant again. During the winter months, the aluminum plant will need less watering. An occasional misting will be beneficial as will a rock humidity tray. Temperature and Humidity If you live in a tropical zone in the US, USDA zones 11 and 12, you will be able to grow your aluminum plant outdoors. Otherwise, you will need to keep this plant as a house plant. It likes humidity, so consider misting it occasionally and do not leave it near vents or heat sources that will wick moisture away from your plant. If you have a well-lit bathroom, this is an excellent home since there is a source of humidity from the shower. Fertilizer Like watering, you will want to adjust feeding as the seasons change. When in a growing season, you should fertilize this plant with a quality 5-5-5 water-soluble plant food monthly. During the winter months, it is not needed. Is the Aluminum Plant Toxic? The aluminum plant is toxic to our furry friends and can harm dogs and cats, so should be kept away from them. Indoor miniature greenhouses are great for keeping toxic house plants away from family pets.
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Miss Chen
2021年07月15日
Miss Chen
Rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus) bears many blooms, and its attractive flowers are its main selling point. As with other types of hibiscus, its flowers bear a striking stamen. Another feature giving the shrub value is its relatively late period of blooming (in many northern climates, it blooms in August). Rose of Sharon is thus able to offer white, red, lavender, or light blue blooms when many flowering shrubs have long since ceased blooming. Late-summer flowering shrubs can help gardeners manage the sequence of bloom in their landscapes. Rose of Sharon is classified by botanists as a shrub, but it can be pruned to form one main trunk so that it grows more like a tree. It can also be used for espalier. Its natural shrub form is multi-stemmed and vase-shaped. It has toothed green leaves that do not provide fall color. It can grow up to 24 inches each year and can be planted in spring or fall.
Botanical Name Hibiscus syriacus Common Name Rose of Sharon, althea, Korean rose, rose mallow, Chinese hibiscus Plant Type Shrub Mature Size 8-12 ft. tall, 6-10 ft. wide Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade Soil Type Moist Soil pH Neutral to acidic, alkaline Bloom Time Late summer, early fall Flower Color White, red, lavender, light blue Hardiness Zones 5 to 9 (USDA) Native Area China, India Toxicity Non-toxic Rose of Sharon Care Rose of Sharon is tolerant of air pollution, heat, humidity, poor soil, and drought.1 This species has naturalized well in many areas and can become invasive if its growth is not monitored. This shrub is primarily used as a specimen plant, hedge plant, and foundation shrub. Its attractive and plentiful blooms make it fully capable of holding its own as a specimen. The ability to shape rose of Sharon also makes the shrub a prime candidate for hedges. But since this bush is deciduous, it is an effective privacy hedge only in summer (select one of the evergreen shrubs to gain privacy all year). Light Rose of Sharon prefers full sun. Older bushes may fall prey to fungal damage if they are grown in shaded areas where moisture is likely to be high.2 Soil This plant thrives in rich soil. It can tolerate many soil types, including sand, clay, chalk, and loam. It prefers nutrient-rich soil but can survive in poor soil, too. Rose of Sharon thrives in a wide range of soil pH from 5.5 to 7.5. Water The plant is reasonably drought-tolerant. In fact, if your rose of Sharon has yellow leaves, it could be due to overwatering, rather than to a lack of water.3 Temperature and Humidity A heat lover, this shrub is also prized by growers in the southeastern U.S. who seek plants that can stand up to summer's heat. It is also tolerant of a wide range of humidity conditions. Fertilizer Fertilizer is recommended (although not mandatory for established shrubs). Use a slow-release fertilizer for shrubs and trees, feeding in late winter or early spring. If you wish to grow organically, work compost gently into the soil around the root zone and water it into the earth. Rose of Sharon Varieties Rose of Sharon can be found in a number of different colors. These are some popular varieties: 'Blue Chiffon': This cultivar has double flowers with a purple-blue tinge (they're not really blue) that bloom from mid-summer into autumn. What makes the flower so beautiful is the presence of inner petals that surround the stamen, giving the flowers a frilly look. It grows 8 to 12 feet tall, with a spread of 6 to 10 feet. 'Sugar Tip': The name of this cultivar refers to its variegated leaves with creamy-white edging. It has pink double flowers and grows six to eight feet tall and four to six feet wide. 'White Chiffon': This variety is graced with white flowers that are solid: they have no distinct center, or throat, because the petal is totally white. The shrub grows 6 to 8 feet tall and 4 to 6 feet wide. 'Red Heart': This shrub's flowers are ruffled and have a bicolored look with white petals and dark red centers. Lovers of low-maintenance landscaping will be glad to hear that this is a sterile cultivar, so there will not be any seedlings to remove. Propagating Rose of Sharon The best way to propagate rose of Sharon plants is by making stem cuttings and potting them. Cut several pencil-wide branches of rose of Sharon that have several leaves or leaf buds. Cut the stems 4 to 6 inches long and remove the leaves from the bottom half of the stem. Dip the end of the stem in rooting hormone. Plant the bottom third or bottom half of each stem. Place a piece of clear plastic over the top of each pot. Water well. Put your pots in a spot with shade or indirect light. Remove the plastic in seven days. Check the pots every few days to make sure the potting mixture remains moist. Add more water if needed, but do not let the soil get soggy. Check the cuttings for roots in one to two months. Pull gently on each stem; if it resists, the stem has rooted. You also should also see new leaves form on the branch stems that have rooted. Grow them larger, at least 2 inches of growth, before planting them in the garden. Pruning Although naturally a multi-stemmed shrub, this plant can be trained through pruning to have just one main trunk; thus, some people refer to it as the rose of Sharon "tree." Prune in late winter or early spring, since this is one of the shrubs that blooms on the current season's growth. It is easiest to give rose of Sharon its desired shape by pruning it accordingly during its first two seasons. It can also be trained for espalier (grown flat against a supporting structure).
Also, do not give up on rose of Sharon, thinking it is dead just because it has not leafed out by early summer. This shrub not only blooms late but leaves out late as well, so be patient. Common Pests/Diseases The chief pest problem for this bush is Japanese beetle infestations.4 Japanese beetles are somewhat easier to control than many other insect pests because they are large enough to spot immediately before they have done too much damage to your plants. The easiest and safest way to kill them is to pick or shake them off by hand, dropping them into a container filled with soapy water. The insect breathes through its skin, so a coating of soap over its body effectively suffocates it.
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Miss Chen
2021年07月13日
Miss Chen
Tropical plants in the Alocasia genus feature stunning foliage that can become the centerpiece of a garden or room. Large rhizomes or tubers produce enormous heart-shaped or arrow-shaped ears, leading to the popular common name, elephant's ear. They are most often grown as houseplants, but it's common to bring them outdoors during the warm months, sometimes burying the entire pot in the ground to create a natural look. Alocasias can grow very fast, and in the right conditions, some species are considered invasive, especially along the gulf coast of the United States. Thus, verify with your local municipality before planting this species outdoors in the garden. If you have children or pets, you might want to avoid these plants altogether because the leaves are toxic to humans and animals.
FEATURED VIDEO How to Grow and Care for Avocados as Houseplants Botanical Name Alocasia Common Name Alocasia, elephant ears, African mask Plant Type Tropical plant grown as a houseplant in non-tropical climates Mature Size 2–15 feet in height; 2–8 feet in spread (depends on species and variety) Sun Exposure Bright indirect light indoors; part shade outdoors Soil Type Loose, well-draining potting mix or crumbly loam Soil pH 5.5 to 6.5 (slightly acidic) Bloom Time Spring and summer Flower Color Light butter-yellow (flowers are not showy) Hardiness Zones 10–11 (often grown as a houseplant) Native Areas Tropical and subtropical regions of Asia, eastern Australia Toxicity Many species are highly toxic to humans and pets Elephant's Ear Care Even with a short growing season in northern climates, these plants can grow rapidly. In the warm summer months, Alocasia plants can produce a new leaf every week, and each new leaf can be twice the size of the previous week's. The leaf shapes can vary from slim arrowheads to wide heart-shaped leaves. have colorful veins and a variety of textures from thick, waxy, slick, and glossy. Once the plant is in its dormant period (in the late fall and winter), it will begin resting. The rapid leaf growth will stop and the plant will likely remain as-is throughout the winter season. Continue to care for it, and the rapid growth will return the following growing season. Light Needs vary from shade to full sunlight, depending on the variety. Ask the grower or seller if the plant is sun-trained. Leaf color tends to be better among plants that grow best with more light. Soil Plant elephant's ear in loose, well-drained potting mix or crumbly loamy soil. Water Keep Alocasia plants moist all year; they are water-loving plants. There is a fine line with these plants. You want to keep the soil moist, but not soggy. They require less water during the winter months because the plant is dormant. Allow the top few inches of soil to become nearly dry before watering. This will help keep the soil evenly moist. Soggy soil makes the plant susceptible to fungal infections. Temperature and Humidity Elephant ear plants will suffer below 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Some varieties will die back during colder weather and re-sprout from the rhizome. They require, and thrive in, very humid environments. To raise the humidity around your plant, place it on a tray filled with pebbles and then add water until it rises to just below the bottom of the pot. Keep them away from cold drafts from windows, doors, and air conditioning. Fertilizer Alocasias can be heavy feeders, especially large specimens. Feed with liquid fertilizer during the growing season or frequent, small applications of granule fertilizer. Is Elephant Ear Toxic? Alocasia is a very poisonous plant; the leaves contain insoluble oxalate crystals. A human or pet chewing or biting into a leaf releases the crystals which can cause swelling and irritation of the mouth and GI tract. Very rarely, extreme swelling of the upper airway can occur making it difficult to breathe. Keep the plant away from children and pets and call poison control, your doctor, or veterinarian if a person or animal ingests a plant leaf. Elephant Ear Varieties There are about 70 species of Alocasia, as well as dozens of hybrids. Alocasia plants are primarily hybridized because of the appeal of their leaf form, color, and size. Consider these varieties: Alocasia sanderiana, also known as the Kris plant, has extremely dark green foliage and provides an exotic-looking houseplant. Its long, pointed leaves have white veins and scalloped edges outlined in white. Alocasia x amazonica is a hybrid that features leathery, wavy-edged, arrowhead-shaped, dark bronze-green leaves (up to 16 inches long) Alocasia macrorrhizos, also known as giant taro, is a truly enormous plant that can grow up to 15 feet tall and 8 feet wide with leaves that can reach 3 to 4 feet long and 2 to 4 feet wide. Additionally, the plant has been extensively hybridized. Most Alocasia species will survive in shade, but they often appreciate slightly brighter filtered sunlight. The bigger varieties can be trained to handle the full tropical sun. Keep all species warm, moist, and humid. Trim away faded leaves. Like all aroids, Alocasias flower with a typical spathe and spadix, but the flower is usually unremarkable.
Potting and Repotting Repot Alocasia varieties annually into larger pots with fresh, free-draining potting soil. Also, it's best to divide the rhizome annually to keep the plant a manageable size and increase your collection. Propagating Alocasia Most Alocasia plants can be propagated by clump or rhizome division. Cut off a piece of the underground rhizome and pot it up separately. Keep it warm and moist until new growth begins. Common Pests/Diseases While quite striking, these plants can be quite sensitive to a variety of diseases including crown, stem, and root rot, leaf spot, and Xanthomonas infection. Signs of diseases are typically black or dark brown spots on the leaves and a yellowish rim around the spots. You can prevent disease with proper watering practices; do not overwater these plants. Keep the foliage dry and provide proper air circulation around and near the plant. Common pests of Alocasia include mealybugs, scale, aphids, and spider mites. Every few weeks, spray the plant with warm soapy water to prevent these pests and keep the plant dust-free. If an infestation occurs, use an ultra-fine insecticide oil or neem oil. These products will kill the pests and their eggs.
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Miss Chen
2021年07月11日
Miss Chen
Bugleweed (Ajuga reptans), also called common bugleweed, is a fast-growing herbaceous perennial ground cover (the species name reptans means "creeping"). Although it produces beautiful flower spikes and is available in several different cultivars that work well in landscaping, it can also make quite a nuisance of itself through its aggressive spreading via underground runners (called stolens). However, there are a few situations in which its good qualities will be enough reason for some gardeners to grow it. Bugleweed excels at filling in large, shady areas where lawns are difficult to grow, and it can work well on banks or slopes or planted around trees and shrubs. It forms a dense mat that will choke out weeds, and it is known to be fairly deer-resistant. It is so tough that it can even grow under black walnut trees (Juglans nigra), which produces a chemical that discourages most plants. However, avoid planting bugleweed near lawn areas because it can quickly spread into turf grass. Bugleweed has shiny, dark green leaves and produces blue, violet, or purple flower spikes in mid- to late-spring that can reach 8 to 10 inches tall, although the flower spikes on some cultivars are shorter. Several cultivars offer variegated foliage colors and patterns.
Botanical Name Ajuga reptans Common Name Bugleweed, common bugleweed, ajuga, carpet bugle, blue bugle, carpetweed, carpenter's herb Plant Type Herbaceous perennial Mature Size 6 to 9 inches tall and 6 to 12 inches wide Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade Soil Type Medium-moisture, well-drained Soil pH 3.7 to 6.5 Bloom Time May to June Flower Color Blue, violet Hardiness Zones 3 to 10 Native Area Europe, northern Africa, southwestern Asia How to Grow Bugleweed Plant bugleweed in an area where air circulation is good, spacing the plants about 1 foot apart. Cut off the flower spikes in late summer after the flowers have faded. To shear back a large area of bugleweed, use a lawnmower set to a high blade height. To keep the plant under control, rigorously prune runners twice a year. Be sure to remove any runners escaping the desired planting area. If the planting area becomes crowded, thin out the plants in the fall by digging up the entire clump and replanting half of the roots. Water thoroughly after replanting. Because bugleweed spreads aggressively via runners, that fact should alert you to its potential to be invasive. To control it in your planting beds, you'll have to be faithful about pulling it out from where it doesn't belong. If you're not vigilant about controlling it, it will soon gain a toehold and become a pest. Light Bugleweed does well in full sun to part shade locations. Foliage color is most vibrant when the plant receives at least three to four hours of sunlight daily. Soil Bugleweed prefers medium moisture, well-drained soils with a good amount of organic matter. It will tolerate moderately dry soil. In the South, watch out for crown rot, also called "Southern blight," which is caused by a fungus (Sclerotium rolfsii).1 You can help prevent crown rot by assuring the soil drains well. Water Water bugleweed weekly while plants are getting established, then once every two to three weeks when they're established. Water whenever the top 1 to 2 inches of soil become dry. Temperature and Humidity Bugleweed does well in a wide range of temperatures, but in very hot, humid areas, it requires good air circulation to prevent crown rot. Fertilizer Feeding is rarely necessary unless the plant is growing in poor soil. When it is needed, apply an all-purpose granular fertilizer. Or, use a water-soluble fertilizer at a rate of 1 tablespoon per 1 gallon of water. Morning feeding is best, and make sure to rinse off any fertilizer granules from the leaves.
Propagating Bugleweed Ajuga is one of the easiest plants to propagate. It spreads by underground runners that form clumps surrounding the parent plant. At the point where these clumps begin to get crowded, you can dig them up and transplant them. This is best done in spring or fall when there is no chance of frost. Dig up the entire mother plant and surrounding clumps, then separate them by hand or with a knife. Discard brown or withered clumps, and plant the individual plants in new locations. Varieties of Bugleweed A. reptans 'Atropurpureum' has bronze-purple foliage. A. reptans 'Chocolate Chip' has darker leaves than the species plant, including a hint of chocolate brown. A. reptans 'Burgundy Glow' has burgundy tri-colored variegated foliage (white, pink, and green). A. reptans 'Dixie Chip' is another variety with tri-color variegated foliage (creamy-white, deep-rose, and green) and produces a mat 2 to 4 inches tall. A. reptans 'Black Scallop' has perhaps the darkest foliage of all cultivars with almost-black, scalloped leaves and deep blue flower spikes. It produces a mat 3 to 6 inches tall. The darkest foliage color is achieved when plants are located in full sun. Growing From Seed Start bugleweed seed indoors in pots filled with a seed-starter mix. Cover the seeds with a thin layer of compost; they will sprout within a month. When the seedlings are viable, pot them up into larger containers. Once robust, transplant the seedlings into the garden.
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Miss Chen
2021年07月09日
Miss Chen
Tillandsia stricta is a common species in the air plant family, but this doesn’t make them any less special. Their versatility makes them a popular choice, and their vibrant blooms make them a beautiful addition to your home. This air plant comes in many different varieties, meaning there are a plethora of looks to choose from. Some varieties have soft leaves while others have hard. In addition to foliage structure, Tillandsia stricta plants also vary in color. Many are different tones of green, but there is also a variety with foliage so dark it is almost black. Their flowers may be red, pink, blue, or purple. Interestingly, the actual flower only lasts one day when it blooms. However, the beautiful bracts that these flower sprout from will remain colorful and attractive for weeks.
Botanical Name Tillandsia stricta Common Name Air plant Plant Type Houseplant or annual Mature Size 6 to 12 inches Sun Exposure Bright, indirect light Soil Type Not applicable Soil pH Not applicable Bloom Time Once, when fully matured Flower Color Red, pink, blue, or purple Hardiness Zones 9 to 11 Native Area South America Tillandsia Stricta Care The Tillandsia stricta is a hardy, low-maintenance specimen to add to your houseplant collection. They don't need soil and the key to their care if getting their watering and airflow right. Eventually, your plant may reward you with its beautiful, vibrant blooms. This only happens when your plant reaches maturity, which may take years. Occasionally, pests like mealybugs and scale may infect these plants. Light Most air plants thrive in bright, indirect light and the Tillandsia stricta is no exception. Place them in an area that receives bright sunlight from a window, but avoid positioning them directly on the windowsill. Too much direct sun can burn its foliage. Soil The fun thing about air plants is that they need air, not soil. Steer away from the temptation to place it in soil or moss just for looks. This can lead to rot and can kill your air plant. Instead, embrace this soil-less plant and place it just about anywhere with good airflow. This could be sitting on a table or desk, hanging from the wall or ceiling, in a seashell, attached to a picture frame; the possibilities are endless. If you would like to put it somewhere that needs a little extra support to keep it put, try fishing line, wire, or even a dab of glue. Just stay clear of copper or superglue, because these will kill your plant. Water Since your Tillandsia stricta has no soil to water, these plants need to go for a swim to get all the hydration they need. To do this, submerge your air plant in a bowl of clean water and let it soak it for 10 to 30 minutes. If your Tillandsia stricta is sporting a flower at the time, be sure to keep the delicate flower out of the water to prevent damage. When finished soaking, remove your plant from the water and shake out any excess water hiding in the leaves. Check your plant after a couple of hours to ensure that it is completely dried off. If water sits too long in the leaves and core of the plant, it can cause rot. Springwater, filtered water, or rainwater are best when watering your air plant. Steer away from tap water if you can, but if you must, be sure to let it sit for at least 24 hours before using it. This allows the chlorine commonly found in tap water to dissipate. If you live in an area where you can grow Tillandsia stricta outside, placing it where it can receive natural rain is a great option. This will water your plant naturally and may eliminate the need to soak them as often. Temperature and Humidity Between these larger soaks, your Tillandsia stricta will thank you if you give it regular misting. This gives it the humidity and moisture it likes without overwhelming it or causing rot. In hotter or drier climates, it would do good to mist your air plant every day. If you live in a more humid climate, you may only need to mist every three days or so. As for temperature, most air plants do well in hot climates. However, they can handle anywhere from 50 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit just fine. Though they are hardy, keep your Tillandsia stricta away from AC or heating units. The intense heat or cold from these units can damage or kill your plant. Fertilizer Fertilizer can help create a healthy, happy air plant and may encourage blooming, growth, and pup production. However, your Tillandsia stricta does not require fertilizer and will grow just fine without any. If given too much fertilizer, your plant can be burned or even die. If you would like to encourage more growth, fertilize once a month using a Bromeliad or Tillandsia fertilizer. These are designed to be absorbed through the leaves. Common fertilizer is meant to be absorbed through the roots of a plant, which is not how air plants receive their nutrients. Fertilizer is especially helpful when your Tillandsia stricta is blooming.
Propagating Tillandsia Stricta Propagating your Tillandsia stricta is simple and an exciting way to take your plant cultivation hobby to the next level. When it is mature, your plant will produce pups at its base. These baby air plants are easily removed. Here is how: 1. Wait until your pup is at least a third of the size of the mother plant. 2. Identify where the pup is attached to the plant. 3. Carefully pop the pup off the mother plant with a gentle twist. To avoid damaging the new plant, grip the pup at the base and not from the top. If the pup does not easily pop off, a sharp knife or pair of snips may be needed to trim it from the mother. 4. Once the pup is detached, place in a well ventilated, bright spot of its own. Air plants can take years to bloom and produce pups, so don’t get discouraged if you don’t see any. With proper care, your Tillandsia strict will reward you with bright blooms and pups in time.
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Miss Chen
2021年07月07日
Miss Chen
No potting soil? No problem. You don’t need soil to keep your home full of gorgeous houseplants. Meet Tillandsia kolbii, a variety of air plant. These plants actual absorb nutrients and water through their leaves, not their roots. Because of this, they don’t have big root systems like the usual houseplant. These plants can be set wherever you’d like a little greenery, no pot needed. In fact, you can even hang them. The Tillandsia kolbii has compact, fuzzy leaves that are a soft green color. With proper care, they may also produce beautiful, unique blooms in red, orange, or purple.
Botanical Name Tillandsia kolbii Common Name Air plant Plant Type Houseplant or annual Mature Size 1 to 3 inches Sun Exposure Bright, indirect light Soil Type Not applicable Soil pH Not applicable Bloom Time Once, when fully matured Flower Color Red, orange, or purple Hardiness Zones 9 to 11, USA Native Area Mexico and Guatemala Tillandsia Kolbii Care Caring for these plants is a breeze. Choose an area with bright, indirect lighting and good airflow to keep your Tillandsia kolbii the happiest. The biggest thing they require is regular watering. How do you water a plant with no soil, you may ask? Regular misting is a wonderful way to keep your plants humid. With proper attention and care, your Tillandsia kolbii may even bloom. These amazing little plants only bloom once in their lifetime, and the process may take years. Once they are mature, they will produce pups. These are new little air plants that will pop out of the base of the mother plant. You can either leave these attached so they slowly grow a huge connected colony of air plants, or remove them to create more plants to spread around. Occasionally, mealybugs and scale may pose pest problems. Light Tillandsia kolbii, like most air plants, loves bright, indirect lighting. Despite being native to Mexico and Guatemala, too much sunshine can actually harm or burn the plant. Signs of too much sun include burn marks or red-tipped leaves. The red coloring is caused by stress. Soil The name “air plants” has become a popular way to describe plants belonging to the Tillandsia family because they don't need to be grown in soil. Instead, just set your Tillandsia kolbii wherever you’d like to add a little greenery. Whether that be your desk, atop a decorative piece of driftwood, or even in a hanging terrarium. In warm areas, these plants can even be grown outside and make a wonderful addition to your porch décor. Water Unlike most houseplants, the Tillandsia kolbii cannot be watered in the usual fashion. To give your air plant the water it needs, soak it in a bowl of water for 10 to 30 minutes every week or two. If your air plant is blooming, be sure to keep the delicate flower above the water during a soak to avoid damaging it. Once you remove your air plant from the water, tip it upside-down to let the excess water drain from its foliage, and then return it to its display area. Let your air plant dry completely before the next soaking session. This will help avoid problems with rot. Make sure to use clean water, like spring or filtered water. If you must use tap water, let it sit for at least 24 hours to allow the chlorine to dissipate.
Temperature and Humidity Tillandsia kolbii loves humidity. Regularly misting it will provide the humidity and moisture that it needs. In drier areas, you may need to mist your air plant daily. In more humid areas, you may only need to mist it every three days or so. These plants also love warmer temperatures. However, avoid placing them near heating or AC units. Too much heat or cold can damage the plants. Placing them in a well-ventilated area with bright indirect sunlight is ideal. Fertilizer Because air plants do not have soil, you will need to fertilize during their monthly soak by adding it to the water. Using a fertilizer designed for air plants is best. However, fertilizer is not a huge need for these little plants. They will grow wonderfully even without additional feeding. Too much fertilizer can even kill your Tillandsia kolbii. Propagating Tillandsia kolbii Propagating an air plant is fun and easy. In fact, your air plant will tell you when. These plants create what are known as “pups” once they are mature. These pups are new air plants. Once your Tillandsia kolbii is mature and producing pups, here is how to remove them. 1. Wait until your pup is at least a third of the size of the mother plant. 2. Locate the base of the pup. 3. Gently pop the pup off the mother plant. Be sure to grip the pup at its base leaves so no tearing occurs on its top leaves. If the pup does not easily pop off, a sharp knife or pair of snips may be needed to trim the pup from the mother. 4. Once the pup is detached, place it in a well ventilated, bright spot of its own. Before you know it, you’ll have a whole family of air plants. Don’t be discouraged if you do not see pups for some time, though. Air plants can take years to bloom and produce pups. Patience is key.
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Miss Chen
2021年07月05日
Miss Chen
Distribution and habitat: Euphorbia milii is a species of flowering plant in the spurge family Euphorbiaciae, native to Madagascar. It is a succulent climbing shrub with densely spiny stems. The straight, slender spines help Euphorbia milii scramble over other plants. The leaves are found mainly on new growth and are obovate. The flowers are small, subtended by a pair of conspicuous petal-like bracts, variably red, pink or white. Description: Euphorbia milii is a dense shrub up to a metre (3 feet) or so tall, it has 2cm (0.8 inch) tick dark brown stems armed on all sided and at frequent intervals with sharp spines of varying length (mostly around 1-2cm (0.4-0.8 inch)). Clusters of bright green, elliptic, 5-6cm (2-2.4 inch) leaves, which are produced near the growing tips of the stems, last for at least several months before dropping off, leaving the plant’s spiny stems permanently bare. Old leaves are not replaced and new ones will appear only on new terminal growth. The flowers are tiny, but each is surrounded by a pair of 2cm kidney-shaped, bright red bracts, which look rather like petals. Clusters of from two to six of these paired, flower-like bracts appear on 5cm (2 inch) stalk at the ends of actively growing spiny stems. They are not produced on the old stems. A sticky substance on the flower stalks adheres to the finger if touched. The main flowering season normally last from early spring through late summer, but flowering can be continuous if plants get exceptionally good light.
Houseplant care: Euphorbia milii does not require too much care but as Euphorbia milii is one of the spiniest plants, be particularly careful when handling the plant. Euphorbia milii is not fast growing, so pruning is usually not necessary until the second or third year. Pruning is best done during cool, dry weather in late spring to lessen the risk of stem disease. Remove only dead and overly tangled stems. Light: Euphorbia milii needs all the sun it can get. The brighter and more constant sunlight, the longer its flowering season will be. Temperature: Warm rooms and dry air normally suit these plants, through they can, if necessary, tolerate temperature as low as 13°C (55°F). If the air becomes any cooler, the leaves are likely to begin falling prematurely. Watering: Water plants grown in normal room temperatures moderately, enough to make the entire potting mixture moist, but allowing the top couple of centimetres (0.8 inch) of the mixture to dry out between waterings. After the main flowering season ends, give to plant a little less water; and if the temperature fall below 16°C (61°F) for long time, let the top half of the mixture dry out between waterings. Never let the roots to dry out completely as dry roots can cause premature leaf-fail. Fertilising: Apply week liquid fertiliser every two weeks from the late spring to early autumn. If plants are in such an ideal condition that they will continue to flower during the winter, feed them once a month. Potting and repotting: Use a combination of two-thirds of soil-based potting mixture and one third of coarse sand or perlite for good drainage. Move the plants into pots one size larger in early spring every second year. Older plants which have reached maximum convenient pot size should be top-dressed annually with fresh potting mixture. It is essential to pack the mixture firmily around the roots of the plant when potting Euphorbia milii. Gardening: When grow Euphorbia milii outdoors, choose a sunny, well-drained planting site. This plant will tolerate a few hours of shade during the hottest part of the day but does require sunshine for at least two-thirds of the day. Soil drainage must be excellent or the plant will develop root rot, fatal for plant. Add soil amendments, such as compost or peat moss, if the soil is sandy or of poor quality. Dig a hole for each plant as deep as the root ball and twice as wide. Space plants 0.5m (2 feet) apart to ensure proper air circulation. Carefully remove the plant from its container and inspect the roots. Prune away any broken, shriveled or mushy roots, then gently loosen the soil around the outside of the root ball with the fingers. Set the plant into the planting hole at the same level as it was in the container. Backfill around the roots with soil, pressing firmly with the hands to remove air pockets. Water around the base of the plant to settle the soil; keep water off the foliage. Water newly planted Euphorbia milii often enough to keep the soil slightly moist. The plant has established itself when it start new growth. At that point, water Euphorbia milii only when the top 3cm (1 inch) of soil is dry. Propagation: New plants can be raised from short tip cuttings taken in spring or early summer. Use a sharp knife or razor blade to cut off growing tips 8-10cm (3-4 inch) long and stop the latex flow immediately by spaying the old plant and dipping the cuttings in water. Allow the cuttings to dry out for a day before setting them in small pots containing a slightly moist equal-parts mixture of peat moss and sand or perlite. It is important not to let the mixture become more than slightly moist; if the potting mixture is too wet, the cuttings will rot before they can produce roots. Place the pots where they can get bright light but without direct sunlight, at normal room temperature. Keep the potting mixture just barely moist, allowing the top two-thirds to dry out between waterings. When rooting occurs (in five to eight weeks), move the young plants into the standard soil-based potting mixture and treat them as mature specimens after they have made around 5cm (2 inch) of top growth. Problems: Euphorbia milii is generally trouble-free. The plants will survive drought conditions, though under extreme drought leaves will drop permanently. Stems that are cold-damaged (soft stems with burned leaves) are likely to rot and should be removed as soon as the damage is evident. Plants should be protected from freezing temperatures. Uses: Euphorbia milii easily develops a hanging habit and is grown in window boxes or terrace planters. The attraction is the bright scarlet-bract flowers which may appear all year. Both salt and drought-tolerant, Euphorbia milii is a valuable addition to tropical gardens. Toxicity: The sap of Euphorbia milii can irritate the sensitive skin; that of some species is poisonous and acrid and it is therefor advisable to place the Euphorbia milii where they are unlikely to be knocked and out of the reach of young children. Recommended varieties: Euphorbia milii var. hislopii has tick stems armed with 2cm (0.8 inch) long spines; its lance-shaped leaves are 2cm (0.8 inch) long and its red or pink bracts are up to 2cm (0.8 inch) across. Euphorbia milii var. splendens differ from the species in that it can grow 2m tall, its stem are 1-2cm thick and its leaves are more oblong in shape than those of Euphorbia milii.
SUMMARY: CHARACTERISTICS: Foliage – green Features – flowers Shape – upright Height: 1m (3 feet) PROPER CARE: Watering in rest period – moderately Watering in active growth period – moderately Light – direct Temperature in rest period – min 13°C max 24°C (55-75°F) Temperature in active growth period – min 16°C max 24°C (61-75°F) Humidity – low Hardiness zone: 9b-11
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Miss Chen
2021年07月03日
Miss Chen
Looking for an air plant to really make a statement? The Tillandsia cacticola may just be the perfect, eye-catching addition. This tillandsia species is rare and only found in the high altitudes of Peru. They can be seen clinging to rocks or cacti, and are distinguished by their light, sage green foliage. These air plants are covered in tiny hairs, making their leaves soft in texture. The Tillandsia cacticola grows upwards along a tall stem, sending its sprawling foliage outward to make a wild, beautiful display. When these air plants bloom, they create tall white or lavender blooms sure to stand out among your plants. These blooms are long-lasting and may stick around for months on end. Botanical Name Tillandsia cacticola Common Name Air plant Plant Type Houseplant or annual Mature Size 6 inches tall and 6 to 18 inches wide Sun Exposure Bright, indirect light to full sun Soil Type Not applicable Soil pH Not applicable Bloom Time Once, when fully matured Flower Color White or lavender Hardiness Zones 9 to 11 Native Area Peru Tillandsia Cacticola Care The Tillandsia cacticola makes an easy and unique addition to almost any area of your home, inside or out. Since the Tillandsia cacticola is an air plant, it needs no soil and can be placed in a variety of locations. An area with bright, indirect lighting and good airflow would make the perfect place for your air plant. Though intimidating at first, caring for these soil-less plants is actually very easy. The biggest thing they require is regular watering. With patience and care, your Tillandsia cacticola can even bloom. This process may take years to achieve, but their one-time display is worth the wait. Once these plants are mature, they will produce pups or new air plants. Once these appear, you can gently remove them to create more air plants. Removing them is not necessary, though. You can also leave them attached and slowly grow one large clump of air plants. Common pests include mealybugs and scale. Light Tillandsia cacticola love bright, indirect lighting. This variety can tolerate and enjoy even more direct sunshine than most air plants. This is due to its many tiny hairs, or trichomes, on its foliage. Soil Air plants need no soil at all. In fact, they require good airflow. Placing their base in soil or moss will restrict airflow and keep them too moist. Since no pot is needed, you can set your Tillandsia cacticola wherever you’d like to add a little greenery. Placing them in seashells, a decorative piece of wood, or in hanging terrariums all make wonderful options. Water The Tillandsia cacticola is more drought-resistant than other air plants. Even so, these plants still need a good soak every week. A good indicator to look for is curling leaves. This is a sign that your Tillandsia cacticola needs a drink. When this occurs, submerge your plant in a bowl of water and leave it for 10 to 30 minutes. If your plant is in bloom, keep the delicate flower above the water to prevent damage. Once your air plant is done soaking remove from the water and shake out any excess water pooling in the leaves. Be sure that your air plant dries completely in a couple of hours to prevent rot. Also, ensure that your water is clean when soaking your Tillandsia cacticola. Springwater, filtered water, or rainwater are best. If you have to use tap water, let it sit for at least 24 hours to reduce chlorine levels. If you are growing this plant outside, placing it in an area where it will receive natural rain may eliminate the need to soak as often. Temperature and Humidity Tillandsia cacticola, although being more drought resistant, still loves a healthy dose of humidity. A regular schedule of misting will give it the additional moisture that it needs. If your Tillandsia cacticola is in a very dry, hot climate you may need to mist daily. In humid environments, every four to five days will do. These plants do well in hot climates. However, if kept inside, avoid placing them near heating or AC units. The intense heat or cold from these units can damage the plants. Your Tillandsia cacticola will appreciate being in an area with good airflow and ventilation. Fertilizer Regular fertilizing is not necessary for your Tillandsia cacticola to survive. In fact, too much fertilizer can burn and kill air plants. However, the proper fertilizer given in the right amounts can contribute to a healthy, happy plant and may encourage blooming, growth, and pup production. Be sure to use a Bromeliad or Tillandsia fertilizer since these are designed to be absorbed through the leaves. Common fertilizer is meant to be absorbed from the soil through the plant’s roots, which is not how air plants receive their nutrients. Fertilize once a month for the best results, especially if you see your Tillandsia cacticola beginning to bloom. Propagating Tillandsia Cacticola Propagating Tillandsia cacticola is simple. However, this variety of air plants is not as prolific as others, so you may only see one or two pups once it is mature. Once you see these pups, you can easily remove them to create more air plants. Here is how: 1. When the pup is at least a third the size of the parent plant, it is mature enough to separate. 2. Identify the pup's base, where it is attached to the parent plant. 3. Gently separate the pup off the parent plant. Aim to pull the pup from its base leaves so you don't damage the top leaves. You may need to use a sharp knife or scissors if the pup doesn't easily detach. 4. Once the pup is separated, place in a well ventilated, bright spot of its own. Keep in mind that air plants can take years to bloom and produce pups, so you may need to cultivate Tillandisa cacticola for some time before propagation.
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Miss Chen
2021年07月01日
Miss Chen
Agave plants (Agave spp.) generally are succulents with large leaves that end in spiny tips. There's a lot of variety in the agave genus. There are the large, stiff specimens that can grow to 10 feet or more in height and width. And there are the small dish-sized agaves, as well as a few agave species with soft leaves and no spines. Agave foliage tends toward a blue-green in hardier varieties and a gray-green in warm-climate varieties. There are also some that are variegated with gold or white markings. It's typically best to plant this slow-growing succulent in the spring or early fall. When agave matures after several years or even several decades, a tall flower stalk often grows out of the plant’s center. The flowers are bell-shaped and long-lasting in shades of white, yellow, and green. For most agave species, once the flowers produce berry seed pods, the plant dies. Botanical Name Agave Common Name Agave, century plant Plant Type Perennial succulent Mature Size Different varieties average 1 to 20 feet tall and 1 to 10 feet wide. Sun Exposure Full sun Soil Type Sandy or rocky, dry, well-draining Soil pH 6.6 to 6.8 Bloom Time Most plants only bloom once in their lifetime. Flower Color Green, white, yellow Hardiness Zones 5 to 11 Native Area Hot, arid regions of the Americas; also some tropical areas How to Grow Agave Agaves are grown for their dramatic foliage, not their flowers. One large agave is all you need to make a sculptural focal point in the garden. Just make sure there is plenty of room to walk around it, so no one accidentally brushes against the spiny tips. Agaves also can make a nice border grouping and are a textural contrast with other plants. Pairing them with ornamental grasses softens their hard edges. Plus, small agave species are excellent for containers, indoors or outside. Agaves thrive on neglect. The key is to make sure they have well-draining soil and ample sunlight. When grown in an environment they like, they need very little supplemental care from you. Light Agave plants prefer a spot with full sun, but they can tolerate a little shade. The hotter the climate is, the more shade they can handle. Soil Agave plants will tolerate any well-draining soil, but their preference is rocky or sandy soil. Poor soil drainage can lead to root rot, which can kill a plant. Water Mature agave plants are very drought tolerant. You generally only need to water them if you've had a long stretch without rainfall and the soil is completely dry. However, when you are first establishing a plant, water it every four or five days for the first month. Then, water once a week, gradually spacing watering to every other week, depending on rainfall. Temperature and Humidity The majority of agave plants can't tolerate frost and only can grow as far north as USDA growing zones 8 or 9. But there are some, such as Agave parryi, that are reliably perennial to zone 5. Moreover, most agaves prefer a climate with low humidity. High humidity can lead to crown rot on a plant. Fertilizer Feeding typically isn't necessary for agave plants. In fact, feeding encourages flowering, which you don’t want to happen too soon because most agave plants die after flowering. Growing Agave in Containers As with many succulent plants, agaves have shallow roots. So you can grow them in a shallow container because they don’t need much soil. Just make sure the container can anchor the weight of the plant. Use a well-draining potting mix made for succulents. Water the container about once a week in the summer and monthly in the winter. Wait until the surface of the soil is dry before watering. Plan to repot your agave plant every couple of years with new soil. If the pot is overcrowded with roots, go ahead and cut the roots back. Then, give the plant a week or so to adjust before you water it again. Common Pests and Diseases Agaves generally have very few problems with pests and diseases. However, the agave snout weevil can burrow into a plant’s center to lay its eggs, causing the plant to collapse. Unfortunately, you probably won’t notice this until it’s too late to save the plant. So instead remove the plant to avoid the pests spreading to any other agaves you might have. Varieties of Agave There are many agave species that range in size and appearance, including: Agave attenuata: This is a popular spineless variety, also known as the foxtail or dragon-tree agave. It grows around 4 to 5 feet tall and a bit wider. Agave parviflora: Its leaves have white markings and curling filaments that give it a hairy look. It only gets about 6 inches tall and blooms in six to eight years with green flowers. Agave tequilana azul: Weber's blue agave is used to make tequila, but it is also a very attractive garden plant, reaching upward of 6 feet tall and flowering in six to eight years with yellow blooms. Agave victoria-reginae: As this plant matures its broad leaves cup inward, forming a dome. It reaches a height of about a foot, and cream flowers appear in 20 to 30 years.
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