绿手指
首页
动态
文章
百科
花园
设置
简体中文
已关注
+
关注
花园 (4)
动态 (4985)
Miss Chen
2021年12月05日
Miss Chen
Although Brussel sprouts date back to ancient Rome, they're named for the city of Brussels, Belgium, where they have been enjoyed since the 14th century. Part of the cabbage family, Brussels sprouts can be grown in just about any home vegetable garden as long as you have patience—they are slow-growing plants that require a long growing season. If you seen Brussels sprouts only in the grocery store, you will delight in the striking appearance of their plant form: The numerous mini cabbage heads form along thick, 30-inch-tall stalks, along with bold, jutting stems and broad, cabbage-like leaves. The leaves are also edible and can be prepared like other hardy greens. Like other vegetables in the Brassicaceae family, Brussels sprouts taste best after they have been subjected to cool weather. Usually, that means harvesting after a light frost or a snow. In cooler climates, they are best planted in early summer for a fall harvest. In warmer climates, they should be planted in late summer for a late fall or winter harvest.
Common Name Brussels sprouts Botanical Name Brassica oleracea (Gemmifera group) Family Brassicaceae Plant Type Annual vegetable Size 30 in. tall, 8 to 12 in. wide Sun Exposure Full sun Soil Type Loamy Soil pH Neutral (6.5 to 7) Bloom Time Non-flowering Flower Color Non-flowering Hardiness Zones 2 to 9 Native Area Mediterranean How to Plant Brussels Sprouts Brussels sprouts require a long growing season of 80 days or more, and they improve in flavor after being subjected to a light frost. In colder climates, you can start brussels sprouts seeds indoors around early May, and transplant the seedlings to the garden in mid-June, or about four months before the first fall frost. Plant only after the last spring frost. Be sure to allow the full time outdoors for required days to harvest. In warmer climates, fall planting is preferred. You should be able to direct seed in mid-summer for a late fall or early winter harvest. Brussels Sprouts Care Light The plants will grow and sprout best in full sun and need at least 6 hours of sun daily. Too much shade will slow the sprouts' maturity. Soil Brussels sprouts like a slightly acidic to neutral soil that is fertile, well-drained and moist, with plenty of organic matter. The soil pH should be between 6.5 and 7. A good amount of organic matter will help maintain the moisture they need for their intense growth. Brussels sprouts like the soil around them to be firm, but not compacted. Pat it down lightly. Water Keep the sprouts' soil moist but not soaked, giving it between 1 and 1.5 inches of water per week. Temperature and Humidity Brussels sprouts prefer temperatures between 45 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. They'll tolerate a couple of days below freezing, and even improve their flavor with a bit of light frost. This is not a warm-weather crop—sprouts that mature during hot or dry weather will be bitter and flimsy. Fertilizer Fertilize Brussels sprout plants twice a season with a nitrogen fertilizer—once when the plants are about 12 inches high and again four weeks later. Types of Brussels Sprouts 'Bubbles' F1 (85 to 90 days to maturity): This variety tolerates heat and drought, and grows 2-inch sprouts that are resistant to powdery mildew and rust. 'Jade Cross' F1 and "Jade Cross E" F1 (90 days): Jade Cross was a 1959 All-America Selections Winner. Both are compact plants that are good for windy locations. The sprouts are slightly larger on 'Jade Cross E.' Good disease-resistance. 'Long Island Improved'OP (90 days): This variety is another small but high-yield plant that stands up to wind and tolerates freezing. 'Oliver' F1 (85 days): An early producer, the 1-inch sprouts are easy to pick and the compact plant is disease-resistant. 'Royal Marvel' F1 (85 days): ''Royal Marvel' is an early and productive plant that is resistant to bottom rot and tip burn. 'Rubine' (85 to 95 days): These heirloom purple plants are late-maturing and lower-yield than green varieties but have good flavor. Harvesting Brussels sprouts take about three to four months from transplant before you can begin harvesting. They grow tall first and don't start producing sprouts until they reach almost full height. Each sprout grows in the leaf axil or joint. They begin maturing from the bottom of the plant upward. Start harvesting when the lower sprouts reach the size of large marbles. Pick the sprouts before they get too large and start cracking and turning bitter. Pulling off the sprouts is easier if you remove the leaf below the sprout first, then twist and pull the sprout. Some people prefer to cut, rather than pull the sprouts. Each plant yields approximately a quart of sprouts total. After harvesting, a second crop of Brussels sprouts may begin to grow at the base of the stem. These will not be as tight as the first buds, but they are still edible. The leafy tops are also edible and can be cooked as greens. Cutting the tops is a good way to speed up the development of the remaining sprouts, at the end of the season.
To extend your Brussels sprouts harvest in cold seasons, mulch plants with straw and/or cover with a row cover for protection. Whole plants can be pulled, potted and stored in a root cellar. Bare root plants stored in a cool cellar will give you an additional two to three weeks of harvest. How to Grow Brussels Sprouts From Seed If you live in an area with cold winters, start your seeds indoors about two to three weeks before the last spring frost. For areas with mild winters, start the seeds outdoors in the early to mid-summer for a mid-fall or early winter harvest. If you live in a region with warm winters—where temperatures are rarely below freezing—start seeds outdoors in the late summer for a mid- to late-winter harvest. Cover the seeds with 1/4 to 1/2 inch of soil, and keep the soil moist. Space seeds for outdoor plants about 2 feet apart with 3 feet between rows, or stagger plants 2 feet apart in each direction, for a grid layout. When the plants are about 6 inches tall, thin them as needed to a spacing of 12 to 24 inches. Transplant indoor seedlings to the garden when they are about 3 inches tall. It is very important that you do not allow the seedlings to become root bound or the plants will remain stunted when transplanted. Common Pests and Diseases Brussels sprouts are prone to the same problems as cabbage and broccoli. The most common pests are cabbage looper, imported cabbage worm, cabbage root maggot, aphids, and Harlequin bug. Because this is a late-season crop, you have time to monitor for problems before the sprouts start forming. Diseases include blackleg, black rot, and clubroot. Disease control is best achieved by rotating the crop each year. Clubroot is diminished when you raise the soil pH to about 7.0.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年12月03日
Miss Chen
The Brunnera macrophylla plant goes by several common names, including Siberian bugloss, false forget-me-not, brunnera, large-leaf brunnera, and heartleaf. The common name "bugloss" is derived from the Greek words for "ox" and "tongue," as the leaves are thought to resemble an ox tongue. The bright blue flowers may have you doing a double-take with their resemblance to the blooms of the real forget-me-not. Whatever you call it, this long-lasting and low-maintenance species has always been a popular shade plant. This clumping perennial spreads from rhizomatous roots and has dark-green heart-shaped leaves. Small blue flowers with white centers rise on stems in spring; the bloom period lasts for about four weeks. Although Siberian bugloss is a slow grower, the species will eventually spread out and make a nice ground cover. The flashier variegated varieties are a bit slower to fill out, but provide interest and color all season. Siberian bugloss is generally planted from potted nursery plants in early spring, as soon as the ground can be worked. It grows rather slowly, which is an advantage since it doesn't demand frequent division and rarely becomes invasive.
Botanical Name Brunnera macrophylla Common Names Siberian bugloss, brunnera, large-leaf brunnera, heartleaf, false forget-me-not Plant Type Herbaceous, perennial Mature Size 12–18 in. tall; 18–30 in. spread Sun Exposure Full, partial, shade Soil Type Medium moisture, well-drained Soil pH Acidic, neutral to acidic, alkaline Bloom Time Spring Flower Color Blue Hardiness Zones 3–8 (USDA) Native Area Asia, Europe Siberian Bugloss Care Siberian bugloss is best planted in a part-shade to a full-shade location in a rich soil that has excellent drainage. In a good environment, this is a largely care-free plant that requires little more than division every three or four years. Siberian bugloss is often planted in shade gardens, woodland settings, and near ponds. It can make a great ground cover and looks beautiful lining a path or border, although it can take a while to fill in. Since deer do not often bother this plant, it makes a nice alternative to hostas. Companions with different textures and leaf shapes include hellebores, iris, hostas, bleeding heart, geraniums, and even late-blooming daffodils. Since Siberian bugloss prefers cool, moist shade, slugs may become a problem, but varieties with thicker leaves are rarely bothered. Light Siberian bugloss prefers shady conditions, though it can survive in full sun if it gets more moisture. But the variegated leaves can easily burn in direct sunlight and plants may go dormant in extremely sunny conditions. Soil This plant is not too particular about soil pH, but it does like rich, moist soil. Lots of organic matter and organic mulch will help it become established quickly and keep it growing well. Siberian bugloss does not tolerate dry soils. Water Keep new plants well watered. While Siberian bugloss plants prefer constant moisture, they will become more drought-tolerant once they are established. Mulching will help maintain the cool, moist soil that Brunnera prefers. Temperature and Humidity Though rated for hardiness zones 3 to 8, Siberian bugloss prefers regions with cool summers. You may have trouble with it in zones that have especially hot and humid summer conditions (zones 7 to 8). Fertilizer These plants prefer rich soil but do not require supplemental feeding, as long as the soil is not too poor or dry. Siberian Bugloss Varieties The species form of Brunnera macrophylla, with solid green leaves, is readily available. It has lovely sprays of blue flowers and is an extremely tough plant. In addition, there are several cultivars available: 'Diane's Gold' has golden-yellow leaves and blue flowers. 'Hadspen Cream' has extra-large leaves with irregular white outer margins. 'Jack Frost' has silvery leaves with green veins. 'Langtrees' (aka 'Silver Spot') is a very hardy plant with leaves that are dotted with silver. 'Looking Glass' has silver leaves that look almost metallic. 'Queen of Hearts' is an updated version of 'Jack Frost', this cultivar boasts larger, bolder silvery leaves. 'Alexander's Great' boasts jumbo-sized dark green leaves veined in silvery-white. Pruning The older leaves may start to get tattered and can be cut back during the growing season to encourage new leaves to fill in. Don't cut the whole plant back to the ground in the fall—the leaves will help protect the crown during winter and you can easily clean away the old foliage in the spring when the new leaves begin to emerge.
If you do not want your plants to self-seed, deadhead as the flowers start to fade. If you would like to collect the seed to sow, allow the flowers to dry slightly, then cut and let them finish drying in a paper bag. The seeds will fall off as the flowers dry. Propagating Siberian Bugloss The best means of propagation is to simply dig up an established clump in early spring, divide it into healthy segments, and replant. Siberian bugloss can be short-lived, and dividing your plants every three to five years will keep them around longer. Although the named cultivars may self-seed, the volunteers usually do not grow true to the parent plant and are best weeded out if you want to preserve the look of the parent. For example, volunteer seedlings of variegated plants often have solid green leaves. Growing in Pots This plant can be a great choice for containers that are placed in partial or full shade. The variegated leaf varieties will make a nice filler throughout the season. Many are hardy enough to remain in containers throughout the winter, with a little extra protection.v
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年12月01日
Miss Chen
The show-stopping hanging bugle-shaped flowers of brugmansia make this plant a delight for any garden. Grown either as a woody shrub or small tree, brugmansia is a tropical plant native to Central and South America. Brugmansia is best planted in mid-spring when temperatures outdoors no longer drop below 50 degrees at night. The plant will grow very quickly, often growing between 24 to 36 inches a year. All parts of the brugmansia plant are toxic to humans, dogs, and cats.1 It is also an invasive plant in Australia, New Zealand, Central America, the Caribbean, and the Pacific Islands. Common Name Brugmansia, trumpet of death Botanical Name Brugmansia Family Solanaceae Plant Type Perennial, shrub Mature Size 6–20 ft. tall, 3–15 ft. wide Sun Exposure Full Soil Type Moist but well-drained Soil pH Acidic Bloom Time Summer, fall Flower Color White, yellow, orange, pink, peach Hardiness Zones 8–10 (USDA) Native Area South America, Central America Toxicity Toxic to people, toxic to pets
Brugmansia Care Brugmansia can take the form of a shrub or small tree, depending on the area in which it's grown. Its leaves are 6 to 8 inches long, arranged alternately on the stems, and it's known for its spectacular drooping flowers, which can grow up to 20 inches long. In cooler zones, brugmansia can be grown as a container plant and brought indoors when temperatures drop. The flowers produce a strong, fragrant scent, most noticeable at night. Hummingbirds are also drawn to its flowers and fragrance. Light Generally, brugmansia does well in a spot that boasts full sun. However, in especially hot or dry environments, it can stand to have a bit of shade, especially during the warmer afternoon hours. Regardless of the location, though, you should aim to allow the plant between six and eight hours of sunlight daily for it to thrive. Soil Brugmansia is perhaps least picky about the soil it grows in. It can exist happily in almost any blend, from sand and clay to loam and richly organic mixtures. The most important factor lies in the soil's drainage. Brugmansia does not like to be waterlogged but prefers consistently moist soil, so there's a delicate balance. If growing in pots, brugmansia will typically do well in a potting mix designed for azaleas and camellias. Water This is a very thirsty plant that needs to be watered well—and often. If growing brugmansia in a pot, ensure there are ample drainage holes at the base so the plant doesn't get waterlogged. Root rot can occur if the soil becomes soggy. The exact watering cadence for your plant will depend on the weather and the method of planting (container vs. in ground). Brugmansia needs more water when the weather is warm. Plants housed in a container may need to be watered twice a day during the peak of summer. Ultimately, never let the soil dry out, and you should aim to grant your plant at least three inches of water a week. Temperature and Humidity Generally, brugmansia can withstand moderate to warm temperatures and should not be kept outdoors if the temperatures dip below 40 degrees Fahrenheit. If you live in an environment where fall or winter gets cold, plant your brugmansia in a container that you can move to a dark, frost-free place (like a garage) before the first frost of the season. You can allow it to go dormant. Fertilizer Like many other plants with large, spectacular blooms, brugmansia should be fertilized at least once a week (larger plants can even be fertilized two to three times a week). Use a water-soluble fertilizer, and avoid slow-release formulas, as these do not work fast enough for the plant. Bloom-boosting fertilizers, such as 15-30-15 or 10-50-10 mixture, are best. Types of Brugmansia Brugmansia species have distinctive, drooping flowers, and most have sweetly scented blooms at night. The biggest difference between species is color. Brugmansia suaveolens: Native to Brazil; this cream-colored blooming plant is one of the most popular species. Brugmansia aurea: This plant sports yellow blooms and is often called a golden trumpet. It's native to Ecuador and Venezuela. Brugmansia sanguine: This red-flowering species lacks a scent and is commonly pollinated by long-billed hummingbirds. It is native to Colombia and Chile. Brugmansia vulcanicola: Native to the Andean Mountains range from Colombia to Ecuador, this salmon-colored specimen is considered the rarest of the brugmansia. Its 'Rosa Lila' hybrid is a rose-colored cultivar. Brugmansia arborea: This plant features the shortest trumpet flowers, often a whiter cream color than most. This plant is native to the countries along the Andes Mountains range. Pruning Although they do not require pruning, trimming brugmansia will keep the plant producing flowers constantly. If growing it as a small tree, begin to prune when the main trunk forms its first "Y" and choose a central leader as the trunk. Systematically prune away older branches and stems to encourage the plant to produce more branches. Flowers will eventually appear on the terminal ends of the stems. The best time to prune brugmansia is typically in the fall. Keep at least six to 10 nodes on the branches. If your shrub is getting too tall, you can easily train a container-grown brugmansia tree into a smaller shrub size. Pruning your container brugmansia to a desired height or shape will not affect the size or frequency of the flowers. Propagating Brugmansia Brugmansia can be propagated through seeds and cuttings. The best time to get a stem cutting is in the morning. Attempt propagation in the spring for the best success. Stem cuttings are the best method because the plant matures quicker than from seed. Here's how to propagate from stem cutting: You will need potting soil, a pot, gloves, pruning shears, and optionally, rooting hormone. Don the gloves and cut a stem, measuring back 10 inches from the tip of the selected cutting. Make a cut 1/4-inch below a set of leaves using the pruning shears. Strip off the bottom set of leaves just above the cut to expose the leaf nodes. Apply rooting hormone to the cut end and bury the cut end in moistened potting soil. Firmly pack the soil around the stem to hold it up. Put the pot in a slightly shady spot, and cover the pot with plastic. Water the plant from the bottom by placing the pot with its bottom-set drainage holes in a tray of water. After a few weeks, the cutting will develop a good root system and be transplanted into the garden or a larger pot. How to Grow Brugmansia From Seed Moisten a quality potting mix in a pot and lay the seed on the soil surface. Cover with about a quarter to one-half inch of soil. Keep the soil moist. Place the pot in a warm place and look for signs of germination. Germination can take from two weeks to several months, but most seedlings will emerge within a month. Potting and Repotting Brugmansia Brugmansias can grow well in containers and are the way to go if you plan to keep it outdoors in a non-tropical zone. You will need to bring it if the temperatures drop lower than 50 F. Plant brugmansia in a 24-inch diameter container. Keep your potted brugmansia thoroughly watered while outside. Potted plants need more water than in-ground plants. Expect to water your outdoor brugmansia at least twice a day at the height of the season's hot, sunny days. Most brugmansias will not grow to their full height if they are grown in a container. At the most, the typical container-grown brugmansia will reach about 12 feet. Keep the plant pruned to maintain that size. Potted brugmansia should be gradually repotted as it grows to its final container—about 20 gallons in size. Overwintering Once winter sets in and outdoor temps drop below 50 F, bring in your brugmansia. You can treat it as a houseplant or allow it to go into dormancy. As a houseplant, give it light and water. Water it when the soil dries out, like any other houseplant. It may not flower while inside, but the foliage will look nice. If you decide to allow it to go dormant, place it in a dark garage, basement, or closet (not colder than 50 F). You can trim it back by one-third and not harm the plant. Only water it sparingly about once a month. It may lose its leaves and look dead, but as long as the trunk is green, it's still alive. As spring approaches, about a month before you can reintroduce the plant to the outdoors, gradually increase watering (about once a week). Put the plant in a sunny spot or give it a grow light for at least 8 hours. In about one week, you should notice some new leaves or branch growth. After you put the plant back outside, its growth will boom, and you will notice its signature flowers within weeks. Common Pests Whiteflies are a big problem for brugmansia.3 Cabbage worms, spider mites, and aphids are also common. Other pests that may appear include cucumber beetles (in the midwestern United States), slugs and snails, fungus gnats (inside), and mealybugs. To treat these pest infestations, use isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol on a cotton ball or cotton swab to dab the insects. Another option, make a spray solution of equal parts water and isopropyl alcohol and spray the plant. You can also treat the plant with neem oil or insecticidal soap to repel pests. How to Get Brugmansia to Bloom Only a mature brugmansia will bloom. If you started your plant from seeds, it could take up to five years before you see blooms. If you started your brugmansia from a cutting, it might speed up the process, but it can still take about four years. Brugmansia needs ample water to produce blooms and good drainage for good root health. Brugmansia is also a heavy feeder, requiring fertilizer regularly. If all of these factors are met, make sure that it's not root-bound. If it's in too small a container, it may not produce flowers. Move it to a larger container, water, and feed it.
Common Problems With Brugmansia This plant requires little care and eventually yields some of the most noteworthy blossoms, however, brugmansia is susceptible to pests and diseases that can compromise the health and longevity of the plant. Stunted Plant Growth and Blotches Mosaic virus and tomato spotted wilt are common viruses that affect plants in the Solanaceae family. They both can cause stunted plant growth and irregular streaking or blotches. Though the plant may survive and bounce back with proper care, these viruses are permanent and cannot be cured. Avoid planting angel trumpets next to heirloom tomatoes or tobacco plants (Nicotiana spp.) to prevent these viruses. Wilting Leaves Fusarium and verticillium wilt are two fungal infections. Both fungi affect the roots and travel up the stem, stopping water from entering the plant and causes wilted foliage. Fusarium wilt usually occurs in warm weather, while verticillium is more common in cooler temperatures. There is no cure; you can only manage the disease. The fungi can live in the soil for a long time. The best bet is to start with new plants and new soil. Blackening Leaves and Smelly Odor Root rot is a common fungal disease caused by excessive watering. You can prevent root rot by keeping the potting mix moist but never soggy. Decrease watering when temperatures drop in late summer or autumn. Root rot can be deadly, but if caught early enough, you might be able to save the plant. Pull the root ball out of the container; cut away rotten, mushy roots; sterilize the potting container; and plant the healthy portion of root in fresh, well-draining soil.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年11月30日
Miss Chen
Broom plants are small- to medium-sized shrubs with evergreen or deciduous foliage. Leaves are green and small, usually lanceolate. The two main species that share the common name Broom are Cytisus and Genista. Both look very similar. The main difference is Genistas are more tolerant of lime in water and soil. From the Fabaceae (legume) or Leguminosae (pea) family, broom plants bear pea-like flowers in shades of yellow as well as many others. It grows quickly in a lax, bushy habit. One quite common sweet broom (Cytisus racemosus syn. Genista racemosa) is often found along highways on the West Coast of the United States. Some gardeners regard the broom plant to be an invasive weed, while others favor this attractive fast-spreading plant for its airy feel and scented summer blossoms, which attract many pollinators. Botanical Name Cytisus spp. and Genista spp. Common Names Broom, Broom Plant, Sweet Broom Plant Type Evergreen shrub Mature Size 6-8 ft. tall, 5-6 ft. wide Sun Exposure Full Soil Type Well-drained, loam, poor Soil pH Acidic, neutral, alkaline Bloom Time Late spring, summer Flower Color Yellow, cream, crimson, brown-red, orange, rose, mauve, lavender Hardiness Zones 5-8 (USDA) Native Area Europe Toxicity Toxic to cats, dogs, and humans Broom Plant Care Broom plants can be used in a variety of areas in your landscape thanks to their varying heights and colorful displays. For example, brooms will display pops of color in the spring and summer which can contrast nicely when planted in front of other green shrubs. Or, use taller varieties of broom plants as a hedge or border. The dwarf varieties of brooms look beautifully nestled as mass plantings in a rock garden.
v Broom plants like workable, well-draining soil that's prepared in an open, sunny locations. The plants will tolerate wind, poor soil, and even rocks. This wild shrub will thrive throughout drought and cold for years to come. Light Brooms grow best in an open area with full sun, though they will tolerate some shade. Follow the light and location directions for the specific variety. Overall, too much shade tends to make broom plants leggy with fewer blooms. Soil Establish in well-drained loam or poor soil (clay, sand, or loam). Acidic soil is best. Cytisus dislikes alkaline/chalky soils and Genista tolerates lime more easily. Sweet broom can thrive in poor soil, through drought and neglect, and can even fix the nitrogen in the soil with fibrous, fast-growing stabilizing roots. Mulch alkaline soil in the spring with ericaceous compost. Water Water regularly for the first few months if there is not enough rainfall to keep the soil moist. Maintain moisture in its first year to establish roots. Give an inch of water each week during its first summer and during heat or drought. Let the soil dry out between waterings. Sweet broom benefits from habitual watering if the location is dry and the soil is poor. Temperature and Humidity Sweet broom performs best in conditions that would cause many other flowering shrubs to fail. It will bloom as early as late winter and through the early spring months in the cool temperatures of USDA Zones 8-10. Temperatures between 35 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit during the autumn and winter months encourage blooming. Apply a 2-inch layer of lightweight shredded bark mulch to keep the roots cool and the soil moist. This will also provide a layer of insulation against the hot summer sun. Make sure the mulch doesn't touch the base. Is Broom Plant Toxic? These plants can be problematic to pets such as dogs, cats, and horses. Ingesting large quantities could impact the heart or central nervous system of a pet because of the toxic alkaloids they contain. The alkaloids, cytisine and sparteine, are closely related to nicotine. Symptoms of Poisoning Symptoms of cytisine poisoning include: Vomiting Convulsions Chest pain Potential death Sparteine is a class 1a antiarrhythmic agent, acting as a sodium channel blocker and interfering with the natural rhythm of the heart. Symptoms of sparteine poisoning include: Abdominal discomfort Diarrhea Incoordination Lethargy Loss of appetite Nausea Numbness Weakness Pregnant women should avoid consuming this plant because it may also induce contractions. Broom Plant Varieties Cytisus Plant Varieties Cytisus 'Ardoinii' grows a humble 5 inches tall. This dwarf, prostrate alpine shrub plentifully blooms in yellow every spring. Cytisus x kewensis reaches 2 feet tall and is ideal for rock gardens. This wide, low-growing shrub displays pale yellow to creamy white flowers in spring. Cytisus ‘Lena’ is another dwarf variety and grows 4 feet tall. Foliage is deep green and flowers are ruby red and yellow through spring and early summer. This compact variety is sometimes sold as C. 'Volcano.' Cytisus x praecox (Warminster Broom) grows to 5 feet tall offering pale yellow flowers in early May. Cytisus 'Burkwoodii' reaches between 5 and 7 feet tall. It has crimson flowers in late spring. Cytisus scoparius (common broom) puts on a long show of yellow flowers on its 5-foot reach from May to June. Modern hybrids offer a wide range of colors. 'Andreanus' has deep brown-red and yellow flowers. 'Cornish Cream' has ivory cream and yellow flowers. 'Goldfinch' is crimson and yellow with pink and yellow wings. 'Killiney Red' is a smaller, compact variety with red blooms. Cytisus racemosus nana (dwarf yellow broom) has so many yellow flowers from spring to summer they nearly cover the whole plant. Good for creating a hedge in dry conditions, this 10-foot plant is also known as hedge broom. The dwarf variety reaches about 5 feet tall and also grows well in containers. Cytisus 'Battandieri' grows 15 feet tall. Also known as pineapple broom or Moroccan broom, its bright yellow flowers produce a distinct pineapple scent from May to June. It is not particularly broom-shaped, formed more like a medium woody shrub that can be trained as a small tree. Protect from severe winter conditions by growing it against a southeast- or west-facing wall. Give it lots of sunshine. Genista Plant Varieties Genista lydia (Lydian broom) grows 2 feet tall and spreads 3 feet. Its green arching stems are covered with golden yellow flowers in May and June. Genista hispanica (Spanish gorse) reaches 3 feet tall and spreads at least 7 feet wide. Golden flowers cover this dense, spiny shrub in June and July. Genista aetnensis (Mount Etna broom) grows 10 feet tall and spreads 8 feet wide with linear leaves and yellow flowers that bloom in July. Pruning This low-maintenance plant usually does well without pruning, but because many brooms have relatively short lives, pruning can extend their line span. There are slight differences in pruning Cytisus and Genistas. Pruning Cytisus Prune Cytisus varieties every year after they have stopped flowering. When pruning sweet broom (Cytisus racemosus), timing is of the essence. Flowers come on old wood and pruning at the wrong time could prevent or delay blooming. Prune in late spring or summer after bloom season is over. Do not prune in autumn or winter. Give the plant enough time to produce mature wood so that it will flower in spring again. Use very sharp, sterilized pruning shears to cut the plant back by a third. Cut each time at a 45-degree angle. Cutting straight across will cause the stem to hold rainwater and rot. Consider pineapple broom (Cytisus battandieri) as more of a woody shrub by removing any dead or damaged shoots after it stops flowering. Pruning Genistas Pruning of Genistas can be more complicated. For example: Genista aetnensis can be cut back quite a few times each season to encourage bushy growth. Genista hispanica can be lightly sheared after it is finished flowering. Genista lydia does not need to be pruned at all. Propagating Broom Plant Be certain to transplant cuttings in the spring when they reach a few inches tall because their root systems run deep and aren't always happy to be disturbed. Clip 3-inch cuttings below a leaf node that are especially ripe and healthy off of semi-mature wood in July or August; don't take cuttings any earlier or they may not root. Dip the bottom in rooting hormone. Place in flats filled with moist, well-draining potting compost. Keep moist while rooting the cuttings slowly in a cold frame. Plant in the spring, but don't wait too long as the roots will grow deep and the plant will resent the transplant. How to Grow Broom Plant From Seed Harvest and sow seeds when the pods turn black which means they're ripe. Note that germination may not happen with every fussy broom plant seed. Soak seeds in hot water for about 24 hours before sowing. Use pots or flats filled with sandy soil. Germinate at 65 degrees Fahrenheit (indoors in March or outdoors in April depending on the climate). Cover early seeds or seedlings with a fabric or cold frame. Plant in the spring, but don't wait too long because the roots will grow long and the plant does not do well when transplanted at a late stage. Common Pests & Diseases Webworms are the most common issue to look out for. They tend to overwinter in old debris, so rake the area around the plant completely clean. Broom plants are also susceptible to gall mites, an attack caused by fungus dieback; it will result in stunted growth, which is sometimes desired where the plant is considered invasive.Light Brooms grow best in an open area with full sun, though they will tolerate some shade. Follow the light and location directions for the specific variety. Overall, too much shade tends to make broom plants leggy with fewer blooms. Soil Establish in well-drained loam or poor soil (clay, sand, or loam). Acidic soil is best. Cytisus dislikes alkaline/chalky soils and Genista tolerates lime more easily. Sweet broom can thrive in poor soil, through drought and neglect, and can even fix the nitrogen in the soil with fibrous, fast-growing stabilizing roots. Mulch alkaline soil in the spring with ericaceous compost. Water Water regularly for the first few months if there is not enough rainfall to keep the soil moist. Maintain moisture in its first year to establish roots. Give an inch of water each week during its first summer and during heat or drought. Let the soil dry out between waterings. Sweet broom benefits from habitual watering if the location is dry and the soil is poor. Temperature and Humidity Sweet broom performs best in conditions that would cause many other flowering shrubs to fail. It will bloom as early as late winter and through the early spring months in the cool temperatures of USDA Zones 8-10. Temperatures between 35 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit during the autumn and winter months encourage blooming. Apply a 2-inch layer of lightweight shredded bark mulch to keep the roots cool and the soil moist. This will also provide a layer of insulation against the hot summer sun. Make sure the mulch doesn't touch the base. Is Broom Plant Toxic? These plants can be problematic to pets such as dogs, cats, and horses. Ingesting large quantities could impact the heart or central nervous system of a pet because of the toxic alkaloids they contain. The alkaloids, cytisine and sparteine, are closely related to nicotine. Symptoms of Poisoning Symptoms of cytisine poisoning include: Vomiting Convulsions Chest pain Potential death Sparteine is a class 1a antiarrhythmic agent, acting as a sodium channel blocker and interfering with the natural rhythm of the heart. Symptoms of sparteine poisoning include: Abdominal discomfort Diarrhea Incoordination Lethargy Loss of appetite Nausea Numbness Weakness Pregnant women should avoid consuming this plant because it may also induce contractions. Broom Plant Varieties Cytisus Plant Varieties Cytisus 'Ardoinii' grows a humble 5 inches tall. This dwarf, prostrate alpine shrub plentifully blooms in yellow every spring. Cytisus x kewensis reaches 2 feet tall and is ideal for rock gardens. This wide, low-growing shrub displays pale yellow to creamy white flowers in spring. Cytisus ‘Lena’ is another dwarf variety and grows 4 feet tall. Foliage is deep green and flowers are ruby red and yellow through spring and early summer. This compact variety is sometimes sold as C. 'Volcano.' Cytisus x praecox (Warminster Broom) grows to 5 feet tall offering pale yellow flowers in early May. Cytisus 'Burkwoodii' reaches between 5 and 7 feet tall. It has crimson flowers in late spring. Cytisus scoparius (common broom) puts on a long show of yellow flowers on its 5-foot reach from May to June. Modern hybrids offer a wide range of colors. 'Andreanus' has deep brown-red and yellow flowers. 'Cornish Cream' has ivory cream and yellow flowers. 'Goldfinch' is crimson and yellow with pink and yellow wings. 'Killiney Red' is a smaller, compact variety with red blooms. Cytisus racemosus nana (dwarf yellow broom) has so many yellow flowers from spring to summer they nearly cover the whole plant. Good for creating a hedge in dry conditions, this 10-foot plant is also known as hedge broom. The dwarf variety reaches about 5 feet tall and also grows well in containers. Cytisus 'Battandieri' grows 15 feet tall. Also known as pineapple broom or Moroccan broom, its bright yellow flowers produce a distinct pineapple scent from May to June. It is not particularly broom-shaped, formed more like a medium woody shrub that can be trained as a small tree. Protect from severe winter conditions by growing it against a southeast- or west-facing wall. Give it lots of sunshine. Genista Plant Varieties Genista lydia (Lydian broom) grows 2 feet tall and spreads 3 feet. Its green arching stems are covered with golden yellow flowers in May and June. Genista hispanica (Spanish gorse) reaches 3 feet tall and spreads at least 7 feet wide. Golden flowers cover this dense, spiny shrub in June and July. Genista aetnensis (Mount Etna broom) grows 10 feet tall and spreads 8 feet wide with linear leaves and yellow flowers that bloom in July. Pruning This low-maintenance plant usually does well without pruning, but because many brooms have relatively short lives, pruning can extend their line span. There are slight differences in pruning Cytisus and Genistas. Pruning Cytisus Prune Cytisus varieties every year after they have stopped flowering. When pruning sweet broom (Cytisus racemosus), timing is of the essence. Flowers come on old wood and pruning at the wrong time could prevent or delay blooming. Prune in late spring or summer after bloom season is over. Do not prune in autumn or winter. Give the plant enough time to produce mature wood so that it will flower in spring again. Use very sharp, sterilized pruning shears to cut the plant back by a third. Cut each time at a 45-degree angle. Cutting straight across will cause the stem to hold rainwater and rot. Consider pineapple broom (Cytisus battandieri) as more of a woody shrub by removing any dead or damaged shoots after it stops flowering. Pruning Genistas Pruning of Genistas can be more complicated. For example: Genista aetnensis can be cut back quite a few times each season to encourage bushy growth. Genista hispanica can be lightly sheared after it is finished flowering. Genista lydia does not need to be pruned at all. Propagating Broom Plant Be certain to transplant cuttings in the spring when they reach a few inches tall because their root systems run deep and aren't always happy to be disturbed. Clip 3-inch cuttings below a leaf node that are especially ripe and healthy off of semi-mature wood in July or August; don't take cuttings any earlier or they may not root. Dip the bottom in rooting hormone. Place in flats filled with moist, well-draining potting compost. Keep moist while rooting the cuttings slowly in a cold frame. Plant in the spring, but don't wait too long as the roots will grow deep and the plant will resent the transplant. How to Grow Broom Plant From Seed Harvest and sow seeds when the pods turn black which means they're ripe. Note that germination may not happen with every fussy broom plant seed. Soak seeds in hot water for about 24 hours before sowing. Use pots or flats filled with sandy soil. Germinate at 65 degrees Fahrenheit (indoors in March or outdoors in April depending on the climate). Cover early seeds or seedlings with a fabric or cold frame. Plant in the spring, but don't wait too long because the roots will grow long and the plant does not do well when transplanted at a late stage. Common Pests & Diseases Webworms are the most common issue to look out for. They tend to overwinter in old debris, so rake the area around the plant completely clean. Broom plants are also susceptible to gall mites, an attack caused by fungus dieback; it will result in stunted growth, which is sometimes desired where the plant is considered invasive.Light Brooms grow best in an open area with full sun, though they will tolerate some shade. Follow the light and location directions for the specific variety. Overall, too much shade tends to make broom plants leggy with fewer blooms. Soil Establish in well-drained loam or poor soil (clay, sand, or loam). Acidic soil is best. Cytisus dislikes alkaline/chalky soils and Genista tolerates lime more easily. Sweet broom can thrive in poor soil, through drought and neglect, and can even fix the nitrogen in the soil with fibrous, fast-growing stabilizing roots. Mulch alkaline soil in the spring with ericaceous compost. Water Water regularly for the first few months if there is not enough rainfall to keep the soil moist. Maintain moisture in its first year to establish roots. Give an inch of water each week during its first summer and during heat or drought. Let the soil dry out between waterings. Sweet broom benefits from habitual watering if the location is dry and the soil is poor. Temperature and Humidity Sweet broom performs best in conditions that would cause many other flowering shrubs to fail. It will bloom as early as late winter and through the early spring months in the cool temperatures of USDA Zones 8-10. Temperatures between 35 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit during the autumn and winter months encourage blooming. Apply a 2-inch layer of lightweight shredded bark mulch to keep the roots cool and the soil moist. This will also provide a layer of insulation against the hot summer sun. Make sure the mulch doesn't touch the base. Is Broom Plant Toxic? These plants can be problematic to pets such as dogs, cats, and horses. Ingesting large quantities could impact the heart or central nervous system of a pet because of the toxic alkaloids they contain. The alkaloids, cytisine and sparteine, are closely related to nicotine. Symptoms of Poisoning Symptoms of cytisine poisoning include: Vomiting Convulsions Chest pain Potential death Sparteine is a class 1a antiarrhythmic agent, acting as a sodium channel blocker and interfering with the natural rhythm of the heart. Symptoms of sparteine poisoning include: Abdominal discomfort Diarrhea Incoordination Lethargy Loss of appetite Nausea Numbness Weakness Pregnant women should avoid consuming this plant because it may also induce contractions. Broom Plant Varieties Cytisus Plant Varieties Cytisus 'Ardoinii' grows a humble 5 inches tall. This dwarf, prostrate alpine shrub plentifully blooms in yellow every spring. Cytisus x kewensis reaches 2 feet tall and is ideal for rock gardens. This wide, low-growing shrub displays pale yellow to creamy white flowers in spring. Cytisus ‘Lena’ is another dwarf variety and grows 4 feet tall. Foliage is deep green and flowers are ruby red and yellow through spring and early summer. This compact variety is sometimes sold as C. 'Volcano.' Cytisus x praecox (Warminster Broom) grows to 5 feet tall offering pale yellow flowers in early May. Cytisus 'Burkwoodii' reaches between 5 and 7 feet tall. It has crimson flowers in late spring. Cytisus scoparius (common broom) puts on a long show of yellow flowers on its 5-foot reach from May to June. Modern hybrids offer a wide range of colors. 'Andreanus' has deep brown-red and yellow flowers. 'Cornish Cream' has ivory cream and yellow flowers. 'Goldfinch' is crimson and yellow with pink and yellow wings. 'Killiney Red' is a smaller, compact variety with red blooms. Cytisus racemosus nana (dwarf yellow broom) has so many yellow flowers from spring to summer they nearly cover the whole plant. Good for creating a hedge in dry conditions, this 10-foot plant is also known as hedge broom. The dwarf variety reaches about 5 feet tall and also grows well in containers. Cytisus 'Battandieri' grows 15 feet tall. Also known as pineapple broom or Moroccan broom, its bright yellow flowers produce a distinct pineapple scent from May to June. It is not particularly broom-shaped, formed more like a medium woody shrub that can be trained as a small tree. Protect from severe winter conditions by growing it against a southeast- or west-facing wall. Give it lots of sunshine. Genista Plant Varieties Genista lydia (Lydian broom) grows 2 feet tall and spreads 3 feet. Its green arching stems are covered with golden yellow flowers in May and June. Genista hispanica (Spanish gorse) reaches 3 feet tall and spreads at least 7 feet wide. Golden flowers cover this dense, spiny shrub in June and July. Genista aetnensis (Mount Etna broom) grows 10 feet tall and spreads 8 feet wide with linear leaves and yellow flowers that bloom in July. Pruning This low-maintenance plant usually does well without pruning, but because many brooms have relatively short lives, pruning can extend their line span. There are slight differences in pruning Cytisus and Genistas. Pruning Cytisus Prune Cytisus varieties every year after they have stopped flowering. When pruning sweet broom (Cytisus racemosus), timing is of the essence. Flowers come on old wood and pruning at the wrong time could prevent or delay blooming. Prune in late spring or summer after bloom season is over. Do not prune in autumn or winter. Give the plant enough time to produce mature wood so that it will flower in spring again. Use very sharp, sterilized pruning shears to cut the plant back by a third. Cut each time at a 45-degree angle. Cutting straight across will cause the stem to hold rainwater and rot.
Consider pineapple broom (Cytisus battandieri) as more of a woody shrub by removing any dead or damaged shoots after it stops flowering. Pruning Genistas Pruning of Genistas can be more complicated. For example: Genista aetnensis can be cut back quite a few times each season to encourage bushy growth. Genista hispanica can be lightly sheared after it is finished flowering. Genista lydia does not need to be pruned at all. Propagating Broom Plant Be certain to transplant cuttings in the spring when they reach a few inches tall because their root systems run deep and aren't always happy to be disturbed. Clip 3-inch cuttings below a leaf node that are especially ripe and healthy off of semi-mature wood in July or August; don't take cuttings any earlier or they may not root. Dip the bottom in rooting hormone. Place in flats filled with moist, well-draining potting compost. Keep moist while rooting the cuttings slowly in a cold frame. Plant in the spring, but don't wait too long as the roots will grow deep and the plant will resent the transplant. How to Grow Broom Plant From Seed Harvest and sow seeds when the pods turn black which means they're ripe. Note that germination may not happen with every fussy broom plant seed. Soak seeds in hot water for about 24 hours before sowing. Use pots or flats filled with sandy soil. Germinate at 65 degrees Fahrenheit (indoors in March or outdoors in April depending on the climate). Cover early seeds or seedlings with a fabric or cold frame. Plant in the spring, but don't wait too long because the roots will grow long and the plant does not do well when transplanted at a late stage. Common Pests & Diseases Webworms are the most common issue to look out for. They tend to overwinter in old debris, so rake the area around the plant completely clean. Broom plants are also susceptible to gall mites, an attack caused by fungus dieback; it will result in stunted growth, which is sometimes desired where the plant is considered invasive.v
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年11月28日
Miss Chen
The showy bromeliad may look difficult to grow but it can easily adapt to average home conditions with its astonishing array of colors and textures. Although many do have very splashy flower displays, bromeliads are just as popular as beautiful foliage plants with leaves in red, green, purple, orange, and yellow colors and with bands, stripes, spots, and other features. Bromeliads are relatively slow-growing plants that take one to three years to mature into flowering plants. Common Name Bromeliad Botanical Name Bromeliaceae genera Family Bromeliaceae Plant Type Perennials; family includes both epiphyte ("air plant") and terrestrial species Mature Size Varies by genera and species Sun Exposure Bright, indirect light Soil Type Fast-draining potting soil Soil pH 5.0 to 6.0 (acidic) Bloom Time Blooms once; timing varies Flower Color Red, green, purple, orange, yellow Hardiness Zones 10-11 (USDA); usually grown as houseplants Native Area Tropical and subtropical Americas
Bromeliad Care In general, bromeliads need a fairly specific set of conditions to bloom—and these conditions vary from genus to genus, and even from species to species in a single genus. Their bloom cycle is affected by day length, temperature, humidity, water, and feeding. You will need to research specific genera and species to determine how best to grow them. Bromeliad species can either be terrestrial (grown in soil) or epiphytic (clinging to trees and absorbing nutrients through their leaves), but when grown as houseplants, both types are usually grown in a porous, well-draining potting mixture. As a general rule of thumb, bromeliads will thrive in the same conditions as epiphytic orchids. However, they are considerably more tolerant than orchids of fluctuations in temperature, drought, and careless feeding. When cultivated as indoor plants, most bromeliads—both epiphytic and terrestrial species—are usually planted in a mixture of potting soil and sand. Watering is done either by moistening the soil or by filling the center depression ("cup") formed by the rosette of leaves. Light Different genera of bromeliads are tolerant of different levels of light. Some can withstand full tropical sun, while others will quickly scorch. In general, the varieties with soft, flexible, spineless leaves usually prefer lower light levels, while those with stiff, hard leaves prefer bright indirect light. Plants that are yellowish might be receiving too much light, while plants that are dark green or elongated might be receiving too little light. Increasing light exposure can help the plant bloom, provided the other conditions are appropriate.1 Soil Bromeliads grown indoors thrive in fast-draining potting soil that holds moisture but drains well. A mixture of two-thirds peat-based soil and one-third sand is often ideal. You can also use orchid mix, charcoal, or soilless potting mix. Many bromeliads that are epiphytic can be grown in containers, or you can try to grow them as authentic "air plants" mounted to boards or logs (typically secured with ties or glue). Water Bromeliads are very tolerant of drought conditions. In a typical house, it's usually not necessary to keep the central cup of the plant constantly filled with water. But this is an option if the light levels and temperature are high. If you do centrally water your bromeliad, make sure to flush the central cup every so often to remove any built-up salts. But in general, it's enough to water these plants very sparingly through the soil weekly during the growing season and reduce watering during the winter rest period. Never let the plant rest in standing water.1 Plants you are growing as epiphytes (as air plants without soil) need more consistent watering; drench them once a day, and give them a good soaking by submerging them in water once per week. Temperature and Humidity Bromeliads are also highly tolerant of temperature variations, but plants in hotter conditions need more humidity. Bromeliads prefer temperatures between 55 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Though some cold-hardy types can survive temperatures down to 20 degrees, they should generally not be exposed to temperatures under 40 degrees.1 They grow well indoors at humidity levels between 40 percent and 60 percent. In many climates, bromeliads can be moved outdoors during the summer. Fertilizer Bromeliads are not heavy feeders. During the growing season, use a liquid fertilizer diluted at one-eighth or one-quarter strength, applied every two to four weeks. If you use a slow-release pellet fertilizer, apply a single pellet once each season when watering the central cup. Avoid feeding mature plants in winter or when the plant begins to flower. Types of Bromeliads Although houseplant bromeliads are usually grown in a blended potting mix, many species are epiphytic plants when found in their native range—the tropical and subtropical regions of the Americas. Some common genera of bromeliads used as houseplants include: Guzmania: This genus includes most of the most common and readily available species, including G. lingulata, G. zahnii , G. Guzmania sanguinea, and G. monostachia. These plants have long, flat glossy green leaves. The most common varieties have bracts that are bright red (one common name for this plant is scarlet star), but depending on species, there are some that are yellow, orange, purple, or pink. The blooms are very long-lasting, holding up for two to four months. Neoregelia: This is the most diverse of all the bromeliad genera. Those species used as houseplants have some of the most colorful bracts, ranging from pink to deep purple. These plants form short, fairly flat rosettes of leaves; some miniatures are no more than 1 inch across while other plants can be as much as 40 inches wide. Vriesea: The species in the Vriesea genus features tropical, feather-like blooms and variegated foliage. Among the popular varieties are V. splendens and the hybrid Vreisea' Fireworks'. Ananas comosus 'Champaca':Ananas is the genus that includes the common pineapple, and the cultivar of one species, A. Comosus 'Champaca', is an ornamental pineapple often grown as a houseplant. This bromeliad features spidery leaves and miniature pineapples on top of the flower spike. Propagating Bromeliads Propagating bromeliads from shoots is preferred over the less common and difficult way of growing the plant from seeds. Bromeliads multiply by sending up offsets, or pups. In a natural growth cycle, a mature plant will send up a flower spike that includes small, sometimes insignificant flowers surrounded by showy bracts. (It's really the bracts that are most appealing in these plants). The flower bracts are often long-lasting—sometimes for months. After the flower dies, the plant also begins to die over the next few months. However, the parent plant will send out one or several smaller pups at its base. These pups can be carefully cut off with sterile scissors and potted individually in their own containers. Pups should only be potted after they develop a few roots and begin to form the central cup that's characteristic of bromeliads. Common Pests Although sometimes susceptible to mealybugs, aphids, and scale, bromeliads are largely free of severe pests.1 You can eliminate mealybugs and aphids by spraying the plant with a mixture of water and a few drops of dish soap. Dab scale bugs with a cotton swab doused with rubbing alcohol.
How to Get Bromeliads to Bloom While it can be difficult to accurately replicate the conditions any particular bromeliad needs to bloom, some research has shown the plants can be forced to bloom by exposure to ethylene gas.2 So if you want to force your plant to spike, place it in a tightly sealed, clear plastic bag for up to 10 days with a ripe apple. The apple will give off ethylene gas as it decomposes. Make sure any water is drained from the bromeliad's central cup before attempting this. Common Problems With Bromeliads Though bromeliads are somewhat easy-going plants, they can be prone to some cultural issues. Stay aware of the following problems: Overwatering When you're watering, if you're over-saturating the potting soil rather than filling the central "cup" formed by the leaves, bromeliads can develop rot. These are plants that prefer relatively dry conditions.3 Hard Water Water high in mineral content can cause water spots on the base of the plant and in the center cup. It is best to water with demineralized water.4 Improper Container Bromeliads don't have a large root system, so plant them in small, well-draining pots that won't collect a lot of water. Planting them in a too large pot without drainage can lead to rot.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年11月26日
Miss Chen
The bridal wreath spirea (Spirae aprunifolia) is a medium-sized deciduous shrub with an upright arching habit, featuring thick sprays of white double flowers that create a focal point in the landscape. Fully hardy in USDA hardiness zones 5-9, this is an easy-to-grow shrub that, once established, requires little care. The Spiraea genus is found within the Rosaceae family of plants, and it bears some similarity to rose bushes, especially the shape of the leaves and the spiny stems. The species name, prunifolia, indicates that the leaves are similar to those of Prunus, the group that contains many of the familiar stone fruits such as cherries, plums, and peaches. In spring blooming season, bridal wreath spireas create a cascading waterfall of white, with clusters of small white flowers that bloom all the way down the arching branches. Each leaf is 1- to 3-inches long with an ovate or elliptical shape. The spring flower display is followed by another show in the fall when the leaves turn to hues of red, orange, and yellow. Spirea is a fast-growing shrub, and within a single growing season, it usually achieves full size. Like most shrubs, bridal wreath spirea is best planted early in the growing season, which will allow the shrub's root system plenty of time to become established before winter. If you must plant in the fall (this sometimes is when nurseries are discounting available stock), try to do it with enough time so the shrub's roots can settle in and begin growing before winter weather sets in.
Botanical Name Spiraea prunifolia Common Name Spirea, bridal wreath, bridal veil spirea Plant Type Deciduous shrub Mature Size 4-8 ft. tall and wide Sun Exposure Full sun Soil Type Any well-draining soil Soil pH 6.0-7.0 (slightly acidic to neutral) Bloom Time Early spring Flower Color White Hardiness Zones 5-9, (USDA) Native Area China, Korea, and Taiwan Bridal Wreath Spirea Care This shrub is very easy to grow in any average soil in a full sun location. It will tolerate some shade, and once established, it has a decent tolerance for occasional drought. Like most shrubs, it should be planted in a carefully prepared hole, at the same depth it was growing in its nursery pot. If planting in a row or mass, space the plant at least 3-feet apart, or 4- to 6-feet apart for a looser mass. Bridal wreath spirea makes a great specimen plant, or it can be planted as a hedge or in masses as a screening plant. It also works well in foundation plantings. It is excellent when planted in the sunny margins abutting woodland areas, similar to the way azaleas are often used. The bridal wreath spirea attracts butterflies, but its prickly stems repel grazing by deer. Make sure to plant this shrub where it will not scratch human passers-by—unless you are planting it to discourage intruders. There are no serious pest or disease problems for the bridal wreath spirea, but they can be susceptible to many of the diseases and insects that attack other members of the rose family. This includes leaf spot, fire blight, powdery mildew, root rot, aphids, leaf roller, and scale. Some varieties of spirea can escape gardens and become invasive in parts of the U.S., so before planting, check with your local extension office agent.1 Learn About Gold Mound Spirea Light This shrub will do best in a spot in your garden that receives full sun; it will tolerate part shade, though with slightly reduced flowering. When planting young bridal wreath spirea shrubs, make sure to provide plenty of room between them: They will grow and can block each other's light if planted too close together. Soil This plant is not picky about the soil it's planted in, and can thrive in clay, loam, and even acidic soils. Its biggest need is soil that's well-draining, so the roots never sit in water. Water Bridal wreath spirea prefers to grow in well-drained moist soil, though it is able to withstand some periods of drought. Water the plants once a week during the summer whenever rainfall is less than 1 inch. Keep the plants well-watered as they are becoming established. Temperature and Humidity This plant is quite hardy, surviving both cold winter and hot summer temperatures in its defined range. It thrives in any climate conditions within its hardiness zones (5-9). Fertilizer Every spring, add a 2-inch layer of compost over the soil under the shrub. This is usually sufficient to feed the plant, and it will also help to retain moisture and prevent weeds.
Bridal Wreath Spirea Varieties ‘Fire Light’ has pink flowers that show in summer, and fiery red fall color. ‘Anthony Waterer’ boasts carmine-red flowers and purple fall foliage. ‘Tor’ features tiny white flowers and dark green oval leaves that turn orange, red, and purple in fall. ‘Snowmound’ offers white flowers, attractive arching stems, and dark, blue-green foliage. Pruning This plant tends to spread through suckering, so ground suckers will need to be trimmed off if you want to keep the shrubs confined. If desired, the shrubs can be pruned for shape or size immediately after the spring flowering period. Always use a clean, sharp gardening shear. A good pruning routine is to remove all dead wood, as well as some of the oldest stems all the way to ground level. This will open up the center of the shrub to sunlight, which will reinvigorate it. Tips of branches can also be trimmed to control the size of the shrub. Propagating Bridal Wreath Spirea The best way to propagate bridal wreath spirea shrubs is by rooting softwood cuttings. To do so, cut segments of flexible stem tips 6- to 8-inches long. Remove the bottom leaves from these trimmed segments. Dip the cut end into powdered rooting hormone. Fill a 6-inch pot with moist potting mix, then plant four or five prepared stems around the inner edge of the pot, embedding the exposed nodes into the potting mix. Cover the pot with a large plastic bag and seal it. Place the pot in a dappled shade location and allow the cuttings to root over the next few weeks. Check periodically to make sure the potting mix remains moist. After about four weeks, you should see new, green growth on the stems, indicating that roots are forming. At this point, repot the cuttings into their own individual containers, then tuck the pots into a sheltered location and allow them to continue growing until they go dormant in winter. The next spring, transplant the rooted cuttings into the garden.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年11月24日
Miss Chen
The brain cactus (Stenocactus multicostatus) features distinctive wavy ribbing on its surface that almost looks like the folds of a brain, hence the plant’s common name. In fact, no two cacti have the same appearance to their ribs or quite the same shape, making each one unique. Overall, the cacti remain quite small with a fairly globular shape. They come in gray-green to deep green colors with brownish spines. In the spring and summer, they bloom with showy flowers that stretch about an inch across. The brain cactus is a slower grower that’s best planted when the weather has warmed in the spring. It can work for gardens in warm climates, as well as for growth as a houseplant. Botanical Name Stenocactus multicostatus Common Names Brain cactus, wave cactus Plant Type Cactus Mature Size Up to 5 in. tall, 6 in. wide Sun Exposure Full Soil Type Sandy, well-drained Soil pH Acidic, neutral, alkaline Bloom Time Spring, summer Flower Color White, pink, purple Hardiness Zones 9–11 (USDA) Native Area Central America
Brain Cactus Care If you can grow other cacti and succulents successfully, you should be able to care for a brain cactus without much trouble. The plant's light, water, and feeding requirements are fairly typical for many cacti species. One of the most important factors in the plant's care is avoiding overwatering. Sitting in soil that remains damp for a long period can quickly rot the sensitive roots of this cactus and ultimately kill the whole plant. Otherwise, this plant is pretty hardy and doesn’t have any serious issues with pests or diseases. Plan to water and feed your cactus more regularly in the spring through early fall than the late fall and winter months. And repot container plants as needed once they’ve outgrown their containers. When planted outdoors or placed in an outdoor container garden, position your brain cactus in a spot that has some protection from strong winds, which can be damaging to the plant. Light Brain cacti thrive in full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days. They can tolerate a bit of shade, but they won’t grow to their fullest potential and flower at their best in lower-light conditions. Indoors, place your brain cactus by your brightest window. A west-facing window is typically ideal. Soil These cacti prefer sandy and rocky soil that has sharp drainage. But they can survive in a variety of soil types as long as there's good drainage. A slightly acidic to slightly alkaline soil pH is fine. For container plants, a fast-draining potting mix made specifically for cacti and succulents is best. Water To prevent root rot, it’s best to allow the soil to dry out almost completely in between waterings of your brain cactus. The plant has good drought tolerance. In the spring and summer, watering roughly every two weeks should suffice. Once the weather starts to turn cold in the fall, reduce watering to every three weeks to a month, and carry on this way through the winter. The cactus is not actively growing during the colder months, so it doesn’t need as much water as it does during the warmer parts of the year. It’s better to water deeply and then wait for the soil to dry out versus watering in little bits more regularly. The latter method makes overwatering more likely. Always empty the drip tray on a container plant after you’ve watered. Temperature and Humidity This cactus thrives in warm, dry conditions. It can tolerate temperatures down to 20 degrees Fahrenheit, though prolonged exposure to frost and freezing temperatures can eventually kill it. Ideally, it prefers to be in temperatures of 50 degrees Fahrenheit and above. The cactus is fine in low to moderate humidity levels. But high humidity can cause the soil to retain too much moisture, leading to root rot. So in humid conditions, careful watering and excellent soil drainage are essential.
Fertilizer The brain cactus is not a heavy feeder, but it does appreciate some fertilizer when it’s actively growing. During the spring and summer months, use a liquid fertilizer on your plant that is made specifically for cacti and succulents. There's no need to fertilize in the fall and winter months when the cactus goes dormant. Propagating the Brain Cactus Brain cacti are easy to propagate from seed. Simply press the seeds into a seed starter mix in a shallow tray. Put them in a warm spot, and keep the soil just barely moist. Germination should take a couple weeks. Potting and Repotting the Brain Cactus The ideal pot for a brain cactus should have ample drainage holes. An unglazed pot is helpful because it also will allow excess soil moisture to escape through its walls. Plus, the cactus has shallow roots, so it doesn’t need a container with a lot of depth. It also doesn’t mind being a little cramped in its container. But once you see roots growing out of the pot and the cactus has become top-heavy, it’s time for repotting. Because the cactus is a slow grower, it likely will only need repotting every two to three years or so. Gently remove it from its old pot, and place it in just one container size up with fresh potting mix. Wait about a week before watering, so the roots can get adjusted. Brain Cactus Varieties There are several other species in the Stenocactus genus that also use the common name of brain cactus, including: Stenocactus crispatus: This species features dark green ribbing, long spines, and pale violet flowers. Stenocactus phyllacanthus: This plant produces small yellow flowers and has stiff, tan spines. Stenocactus coptonogonus: This species has straight (not wavy) ribbing and blooms with white flowers that have lavender stripes.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年11月23日
Miss Chen
Water Hyssop, also known as Bacopa monnieri or herb-of-grace, is a creeping, low-growing perennial herb that is native to wetland environments. This means it lends itself well to ornamental aquariums and ponds and, with its little white flowers, it also looks lovely in hanging baskets. Given its origins, it does best in moist soils. Fast-growing, Water Hyssop can be invasive if you're not careful about pruning it back regularly. If you live in an area that hosts White Peacock Butterflies, this plant may appeal as it's known to attract the caterpillar of this beautiful species. Don't opt for Water Hyssop if you love a fragrant garden—its flowers are non-aromatic. Despite its name, this plant isn't related to the Hyssop (which is part of the mint family). Instead, the Water Hyssop is part of the Plantaginaceae (Plantain) family.
Botanical Name Bacopa monnieri Common Name Water Hyssop, Brahmi, Herb of Grace Plant Type Perennial herb Mature Size Up to 12 inches Sun Exposure Full Sun/Part Sun Soil Type Moist clay, loam or sand, and in standing water Soil pH Can grow in a wide range of ph levels but, ideally, between 5 - 7 Bloom Time Late Spring to Early Fall Flower Color White to light pink flowers and evergreen, succulent leaves Hardiness Zones 8 to 11 Native Area Found in warm wetlands on most continents How to Grow Water Hyssop Water Hyssop is a low-growing herb that quickly spreads like a mat across the ground or in ponds. The root system is vast, and you'll need to allow for this when considering where to plant it. It would help if you also trimmed it back regularly when it's in full growth to prevent it from spreading across any other plants in the area. Light This plant does well in full sun or partially shaded areas. It can cope with hot weather conditions, providing you make sure that its generous moisture needs are met. Positioning your Water Hyssop in a sunnier location will encourage fuller growth. If it's located in an overly shaded area, the leaves will be more spread out, and the plant will have a sparser appearance. Soil Water Hyssop isn't too fussy when it comes to soil types providing they're moist. Their capable of growing in acid, alkaline and neutral soils that are sandy, loamy or clay-like. Water Water Hyssop is, unsurprisingly, not a drought-resistant plant, and its succulent leaves need a lot of water to thrive. Temperature and Humidity Water Hyssop does well in warm and tropical conditions. Humid temperatures are not a problem as this plant needs moisture to thrive. If you frequently experience cold snaps or temperatures that are generally below 60 degrees Fahrenheit, then this won't be the plant to opt for. Fertilizer When this herb is planted in the ground or in baskets, half strength, slow-release fertilizer will be enough to encourage rapid and healthy growth. If your Water Hyssop is in an aquatic setting, you shouldn't use fertilizer unless it's specifically designed for this type of environment. It can encourage the rapid growth of algae. Propagating Water Hyssop This fast-growing and long-lived plant is easy to propagate. You can take cuttings any time between late spring and early summer or divide the root for replanting in spring or fall. Pop the five to ten centimeter cuttings into water and then enclose them in a humidity bag until you notice the roots have grown visibly. Harvesting The leaves of Water Hyssop are edible and can be consumed raw or cooked. Although not one of the most popular or flavorsome herbs, it's well known for its medicinal properties. It's recognized as being beneficial for the nervous system. It's best to harvest the leaves just as the little flowers are starting to bloom in the summer, but they can be picked right through the fall too.
Being Grown in Containers Water Hyssop needs a deep container to accommodate the sprawling roots. Make sure you select a sealed bottom pot as you want the soil to remain moist. If you're keeping the container indoors, select a well-lit and warm area for best growth. It'll do best in a humid environment, so if the air in your home is dry, the results may not be as impressive. Growing From Seeds Generally, propagation rather than seed growth is recommended. The seeds are very small, and successful germination can be hard to achieve. If you do wish to try growing Water Hyssop from seeds, because it's fast-growing and has a complex root system, in spring, you should plant the seeds at least six inches apart. The seeds should be sown close to the surface, and ideally in sunny conditions. The soil should be kept moist. The seedlings are small and delicate, and it's better to let them grow considerably first if you plan to pot them into containers or reposition them.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年11月22日
Miss Chen
The Buxus genus includes about 70 species of slow-growing broadleaf evergreens. Most of the garden forms are cultivars or hybrids of two species— B. sempervirens (common box) and B. microphylla (Japanese box). Boxwoods are typically large shrubs or small trees, but most of the varieties used in modern landscaping are dwarf varieties, such as B. sempervirens 'Suffruticosa', a popular plant for hedges and topiaries. Another dwarf variety is the Korean (Buxus sinica var. insularis). It reaches a mature height of just two feet tall (with a slightly greater spread). These dwarf boxwood shrubs are prized for their densely packed, light-green leaves and rounded, compact growth habit. Botanical Name Buxus spp. Common Names Boxwood, English boxwood, box Plant Type Broadleaf evergreen shrub Mature Size Varies by species; dwarf varieties are typically 2 to 8 feet tall Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade Soil Type Medium moisture loamy soil Soil pH 6.8 to 7.5 Bloom Time April to May Flower Color Green to creamy yellow (flowers are not significant) Hardiness Zones 5 to 9 (depends on species and variety) Native Area Southern Europe, Asia Toxicity Toxic to pets
How to Grow Boxwood Shrubs Boxwoods are best planted in loamy soil in a full-sun to part-shade location, preferably in an area somewhat sheltered from winds. Their roots are shallow, so the soil must be protected from the heat. Maintain a layer of organic garden mulch, three inches thick, around each plant. Start mulching 2 inches out from the trunk—as a general rule, it is bad to mulch right up against the trunk of a bush or tree, because it invites pests and diseases—and work your way about one foot outwards, around the whole circumference, space permitting. When grown as a hedge or formal screen, the primary maintenance for the shrubs will be in regular pruning, though this will not be necessary if you are using them as specimen plantings. Light Boxwoods will take full sun to partial shade, but planting them in an area bathed in dappled shade for the hottest part of the afternoon is preferable. When sheltered by trees, the roots of dwarf boxwoods will profit from the cooler soil temperatures. Soil Boxwood shrubs require well-drained soils, or they will suffer from root rot. Although they may tolerate soils with a lower pH, certified soil scientist, Victoria Smith notes that they prefer a soil pH in the 6.8 to 7.5 range. Water For the first two years, boxwoods require deep weekly watering. Avoid shallow watering, since moisture will not reach the deepest roots. Mature plants will thrive with a deep watering every 2 to 4 weeks. Temperature and Humidity Boxwoods typically thrive in the climate conditions in zones 6 to 8. In very hot summer weather, the shrubs will appreciate more water and shade. Zone 5 gardeners may find that stem tips die back in cold weather. Fertilizer Fertilize with an all-purpose fertilizer in spring prior to the emergence of new growth. Propagating Boxwood Shrubs Boxwood is best propagated by rooting some stem cuttings. In midsummer, cut 3- to 4-inch lengths of stem tips of new growth. Remove the lower leaves and scape the bark from one side of the cutting. Bury the ends of the cuttings in a pot filled with a mixture of sand, peat moss, and vermiculite. Moisten the potting medium, place the pot in a sealed plastic bag, and set it in a bright location. Check the moisture daily, and mist whenever the cutting is dry. Check for roots every few days by tugging on the cutting. When the roots are sufficiently developed, remove the pot from the plastic bag and transplant the cutting into another container filled with a rich potting mix. Continue to grow the plant in a sunny window until outdoor planting time the following spring. Pruning Boxwood Shrubs Although they are known for their tolerance for hard pruning, most boxwoods will form a nice informal shape without much pruning at all. Only occasional pruning is required to clean out dead branches or those that are twisted together. When pruning hard for shape, the trimming can be done almost any time during the growing season, though it should be avoided in late fall to avoid winter bronzing.
Varieties of Boxwood There are many kinds of boxwoods, and the best plant for you depends on your particular landscaping needs. Buxus sempervirons 'Suffruticosa' cultivars are favored in gardens because they grow more slowly. The growth habit is tighter and more compact than the 'Arborescens' cultivars. These shrubs grow to 2 to 3 feet in height with a 2- to 4-foot spread. B sempervirens' Arborescens' is a considerably larger, faster-growing plant, growing as tall as 20 feet with a spread of 8 to 10 feet. B. sempervirens 'Monrue Green Tower' is a columnar form, 9 feet tall and 1 to 2 feet in spread. It is great for a tall screen or for sculpting topiary use. Two plants can be used to flank an entryway. Buxus microphylla var. japonica, the Japanese boxwood, is one of the most popular shrubs for low hedges. It is also preferred where a more drought-tolerant shrub is needed. It is for zones 6 to 9 and has mature dimensions of 6 to 8 feet tall by 10 to 15 feet wide. Japanese boxwoods figure prominently at a number of historic sites in the Far East. B. microphylla japonica 'Winter Gem' is 4 to 6 feet tall with a similar spread. The cultivar name comes from the pleasing gold and bronze tinges of its foliage in winter. B. microphylla japonica 'Golden Triumph' is 2 to 3 feet tall and 3 to 4 feet wide; it is valued for its variegated leaves. Common Pests/Diseases A common problem for boxwood shrubs is "winter bronzing," a shift to reddish-brown or yellowish foliage color caused by winter exposure to wind and sun. One way to address the problem is to spray an anti-desiccant on the shrubs in late November and again in late January and to make sure your plants are watered sufficiently throughout the growing season. Also, you can build a structure around your bushes to shelter them from the wind and sun in winter. But some gardeners do not mind—or even actually value—the winter bronzing on the foliage. Leafminer, boxwood mite, and boxwood psyllid are common pests. The damage is disfiguring but not fatal, and the pests can be treated with horticultural oils. In the deep South, nematodes are of concern. Boxwoods can be susceptible to fungal blights and leaf spot, and root rot can also be a problem in poorly-drained soils. In the northern part of the hardiness range, new growth is susceptible to winter damage. Landscape Uses While people occasionally use boxwood shrubs as specimen plants in their landscape-design work, they are more often grouped together in foundation plantings or to form hedges. Dwarf boxwoods are famous for their use in formal landscape design. They respond well to pruning, which makes them popular as knot-garden plants, as topiary plants, and as bonsai plants. Wall germander (Teucrium chamaedrys) is used in a similar way. Other uses for these bushes extend beyond the life of the plant. As a cut evergreen for the holiday season, sprigs of it are used in wreaths, garlands, kissing balls, and topiary "tree" arrangements.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年11月18日
Miss Chen
Bougainvillea is not your typical houseplant—in its natural state, it's a sprawling climber and shrub with formidable thorns, often found on the exterior of buildings (like climbing up a trellis or over a fence) or in gardens in subtropical-to-tropical climates. Native to South America, bougainvillea was named in honor of Louis Antoine de Bougainville, a sailor and explorer during the late 1700s. Best planted in the spring, bougainvillea is a quick grower, often adding more than 36 inches in length per year. It's known for its green foliage and vibrant pink, purple, and orange hues that most people assume are the plant's flowers—however, they're actually petal-like bracts that hide bougainvillea's true blooms, which are typically small white or yellow buds. If you don't live in a warm enough climate to successfully grow bougainvillea outdoors year-round, you're in luck—the shrub is surprisingly easy to grow indoors in containers or pots and can thrive if the right conditions are maintained.
Botanical name Bougainvillea Common name Bougainvillea, lesser bougainvillea, paper flower Plant type Perennial shrub Mature size 15–40 ft. tall, 15–40 ft. wide (outdoors); 2–6 ft. tall, 1–3 ft. wide (indoors) Sun exposure Full sun Soil type Moist but well-drained Soil pH Acidic Bloom time Spring, summer, fall Flower color Pink, purple, red, yellow Hardiness zones 9–11 (USDA) Native area South America Toxicity Mildly toxic to pets Bougainvillea Care Despite its showy nature, bougainvillea is not a particularly high-maintenance plant. The vine-y shrub typically blooms three times a year once established, often going dormant and losing its leaves, bracts, and flowers during the cooler winter months. It prospers best in tropical or semi-tropical environments, and will therefore require lots of water and sunlight whether planted indoors or outdoors. Bougainvillea needs to be trimmed to maintain its shape, but too much aggressive pruning of new growth will reduce bloom color. The best approach is to prune in the fall after the growing season is complete so the plant will bloom from next season’s new growth. Light Bougainvillea plants are lovers of sunlight and need full daily exposure in order to thrive. Because of this, many growers choose to move their potted bougainvillea outdoors during the summer months in order to ensure it gets enough rays. During the winter months (or if choosing to keep your plant indoors full-time), opt for a sunny spot near a big window and consider rotating your plant throughout the house as the day progresses to get it enough light. Another important note: The color saturation of your bougainvillea relates to how much sunlight it gets—more light equals brighter hues. Soil When it comes to soil, bougainvillea plants thrive in a moist but well-drained potting mix that's slightly acidic (between a 5.5 and 6.0 pH level). Top your mixture with compost to ensure a rich, nutritious soil, and opt for a pot with at least one drainage hole in the base to lower the risk of root rot. Water Keep your plant evenly moist during the spring, summer, and fall months, and nearly dry in winter (bougainvillea blooms better with drier winter conditions). Water your bougainvillea to saturation, then let the first inch or so of soil dry out before watering again. Too much water can lead to overly-green growth and eventually root rot; too little, and the plant can wilt. Temperature and Humidity Bougainvillea is a relatively hardy plant, able to withstand a range of temperatures, from tropical highs of 80 degrees Fahrenheit and above, all the way down to 40 degrees Fahrenheit. That being said, for your bougainvillea to truly thrive indoors, maintain temperatures around 60 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Due to its tropical origins, humidity is helpful, too—spritzing the plant with water isn't necessary, but if your home is particularly dry a small humidifier near your bougainvillea can help.
Fertilizer Bougainvillea requires a lot of nutrition to produce blooms throughout the season, especially indoors (where almost all plants are less likely to bloom as frequently). For the best chance at a successfully full plant, feed your bougainvillea every seven to ten days using a weak liquid fertilizer. There are several fertilizer blends specifically geared toward bougainvillea on the market, but one formulated for other tropical plants, like hibiscus, can work too. Potting & Repotting When choosing a vessel to plant your bougainvillea in, always opt for a larger size than you think you need. Bougainvillea spreads rapidly and, in suitable environments, will quickly grow into small trees or large shrubs several feet high. To keep things manageable in containers, control the plant's growth with yearly repotting and root pruning in the spring. Once the plant is large enough, aim to repot it every two years. Common Pests & Diseases Outdoors, bougainvillea can experience a few pests, most notably bougainvillea looper caterpillar, which feeds on the leaves of the plant. However, when indoors, you may want to keep an eye out for mealybugs, a common indoor pest. Mealybugs appear most often on the stems and leaves of a plant, identifiable by the fuzzy, white mass they create as they group together. Mealybugs feed off of new growth, eventually damaging the leaves and causing them to yellow and die. To rid your bougainvillea of mealybugs, treat it with neem oil weekly until they've died off.
0
0
文章
3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18
相关用户
筒叶花月
筒叶花月
来自： 斑目
玉露
玉露
来自： 安静的种花人
玉露
玉露
来自： 石头剪子布
天津
玉露
玉露
来自： 绿野鱼悅
温州市
筒叶花月
筒叶花月
来自： Heidi Liu
玉露
玉露
来自： 一万吨少女心
筒叶花月
筒叶花月
来自： KiddaHoo
郑州
保利安娜
保利安娜
来自： 辣木姐--璐颖
玉露
玉露
来自： 倾心
福州
玉露
玉露
来自： 小欢喜
广州
举报 反馈

您有什么意见或建议，欢迎给我们留言。

请输入内容
提交
取消
设置
VIP
退出登录
关闭
分享

分享好文，绿手指（GFinger）养花助手见证你的成长。

关闭
请前往电脑端操作

请前往电脑端操作

关闭
转发
插入话题
提醒好友
发布
/
提交成功 提交失败 最大图片质量 成功 警告 啊哦！ 出了点小问题 转发成功 举报 转发 显示更多 _zh 文章 求助 动态 刚刚 回复 邀你一起尬聊！ 表情 添加图片 评论 仅支持 .JPG .JPEG .PNG .GIF 图片尺寸不得小于300*300px 最少上传一张图片 请输入内容