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Miss Chen
2022年04月05日
Miss Chen
Cilantro (Coriandrum sativum) is a great addition to any herb garden. Not only is it a relatively easy plant to grow, but it actually boasts two cooking uses for the price of one. The name cilantro refers to the plant's thin, green stems and flat, lacy leaves, which are best eaten fresh. Its other common name, coriander, refers to the seeds, which are used as a common cooking spice, especially in Indian, Middle Eastern, and Asian cuisines. Cilantro is best planted in the early spring but also can be started in fall. It grows quickly, often yielding its first harvest of leaves within 30 days. Its seeds will be ready for harvest closer to three months from planting. Common Name Cilantro, coriander, Chinese parsley Botanical Name Coriandrum sativum Family Apiaceae Plant Type Annual, herb Size 1–2 ft. tall, 1–1.5 ft. wide Sun Exposure Full sun, partial sun Soil Type Loamy, moist, well-drained Soil pH Acidic (6.2 to 6.8) Bloom Time Spring, summer, fall Hardiness Zones Annual, thrives in 2–11 (USDA) Native Area Asia, Europe, Africa How to Plant Cilantro When to Plant Cilantro likes cool weather to grow. So plant it in the early spring after the threat of frost has passed. You also can do an early fall planting once the temperature starts to cool. However, in some climates you'll only be able to harvest the leaves and not the seeds before frost hits in the fall. Selecting a Planting Site An ideal planting site for cilantro should have loose, well-drained soil. It can handle either full sun or partial shade but tends to prefer some afternoon shade in warmer climates. Make sure cilantro isn’t planted too close to taller plants that will shade it as they leaf out in the spring. Container growth also is a good option for cilantro.
Spacing, Depth, and Support Seeds should be planted about 1 to 2 inches apart and roughly 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep. Thin seedlings to about 6 to 8 inches apart. Rows of cilantro plants should be at least a foot apart to provide good airflow. A support structure shouldn’t be necessary. Cilantro Plant Care Light The cilantro plant thrives with about six hours of direct sunlight on most days. However, when plotting your garden, select a spot that won't receive too much high-noon sunlight, as harsh rays can burn cilantro leaves. If you live in a hot climate, consider planting your cilantro where it can receive some afternoon shade or in pots that can be periodically moved into the shade. Too much heat and direct sun can cause the plant to bolt (go to seed) early. Soil A loose, loamy, fast-draining soil with a slightly acidic soil pH is best for cilantro. Too much retained moisture in the soil can cause the plant to bolt early. Water Keep the soil evenly moist but not soggy as seeds germinate and seedlings develop. Roughly 1 inch of water per week is ideal for seedlings. More mature plants don’t require as much water, but they still like moist soil. Just make sure their roots are never waterlogged. Temperature and Humidity Cilantro thrives best in relatively cool environments, preferring temperatures that hover between 60 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit—too hot and the plant can bolt easily. However, though cilantro is a cool-weather herb, it is still frost-sensitive. Keep row covers handy to protect your plants if unseasonably cool weather is predicted. Cilantro also struggles in high humidity and climates that get a lot of rain. Fertilizer Cilantro typically does not need fertilizer to grow successfully, but treating it monthly with an organic blend made for herbs can't hurt. Additionally, feel free to mix a nutritious compost or other organic matter into your soil to help the plants thrive, especially when first planting seeds. Pollination Cilantro plants are pollinated via bees and other pollinators. Types of Cilantro There are several varieties of cilantro, including: 'Leisure': Popular for its flavor and bolt-resistance; matures in 50 to 55 days 'Longstanding': Various cultivars that tend to be tall and slow to bolt; matures in 60 to 90 days 'Calypso': Very slow to bolt, maturing in 50 to 55 days but not going to seed until 120 to 150 days 'Santo': Often sold as "standard" cilantro; good bolt-resistance; matures in 50 to 55 days 'Cruiser': Upright habit and strong stems on uniform plants; matures in 50 to 55 days Cilantro vs. Parsley Cilantro and parsley varieties can look quite similar at first glance. They both have thin green stems with flat leaves. However, cilantro leaves are typically more curved while parsley leaves are more pointed. Parsley also has a milder scent and taste, while cilantro’s aroma and flavor are very distinct (and almost soap-like to some people). Harvesting Cilantro This herb is quick to respond to all your hard work, often ready to be harvested for its fresh leaves in under a month. You can begin to harvest leaves once the plants are around 6 inches tall, which typically occurs around three to four weeks after you first sow seeds. Harvest the leaves you need by pinching back portions of the upper stem, which promotes new growth and fuller plants. Aim not to take more than a third of the leaves at a time. To harvest seeds, allow the plant to flower. Leave the resulting seed heads on the plant to dry out. Then, shake them into a paper bag to release the seeds, or snip the entire seedhead, place it into a paper bag, put the bag in a dark, well-ventilated, cool place, and allow the seeds to finish drying in the bag for easier harvest. Cilantro leaves are best used fresh but will keep in the refrigerator for a few days. Cilantro loses its flavor when dried, so fresh use is best. Once they're fully dry, store coriander seeds in an airtight container in a cool, dry spot. How to Grow Cilantro in Pots If you don’t have a suitable garden spot for cilantro, try a container instead. Its relatively small size makes it a great herb to grow in containers. A pot that’s at least 8 inches wide and deep is best for cilantro. Make sure it has drainage holes. An unglazed clay container is ideal because it will allow excess soil moisture to evaporate through its walls. Pruning You’ll generally prune your cilantro plants as you harvest leaves. If you see a flower stalk beginning to grow, you can trim it off in an attempt to prolong leaf growth. However, if you’re hoping to harvest seeds, you’ll want to permit the flower stalk to grow. Wait until the end of the season, if possible, and allow the plant to flower so you can harvest seeds. Propagating Cilantro Cilantro often will self-seed in the garden, propagating itself. You also can harvest and save seeds yourself for later plantings. The time to do this is in the summer as the seed heads dry out on the plants. Here’s how: Once the seed heads are brown and dry on the plant, trim them off. Don't wait too long, or the stems of the degrading plant might flop over and spill the seed heads. Place them upside-down in a paper bag. In a few days, they should split open and release the seeds. Allow the seeds to fully dry in a cool, dry spot out of direct sunlight. Place them in an airtight container labeled with the date. They should be viable to plant for at least a few years. How to Grow Cilantro From Seed Prior to planting, slightly crush or rub cilantro seeds between your fingers to remove the husk. It’s also helpful to soak them in water overnight. This increases the chances of germination. It’s best to sow cilantro seeds directly in the ground or pot where they’ll ultimately reside, as the plants don’t like having their roots disturbed. But you also can start them in biodegradable pots that can be planted in the soil of their eventual growing site. Potting and Repotting Cilantro Any quality well-draining potting mix will do for cilantro, but one that’s organic and formulated for herbs is ideal. Due to cilantro’s sensitive roots, repotting is best avoided. Instead, make sure you choose a suitable growing container for your seeds right from the start. Overwintering As cilantro is an annual, overwintering is not necessary. In hot climates, cilantro planted in the fall can actually continue to grow throughout the winter. Common Pests and Plant Diseases Cilantro is generally resistant to any serious pest or disease issues. Soil that’s too moist can cause rot. The strong fragrance of cilantro typically repels pests, but some common insect pests, including aphids and leaf hoppers, might affect the plants. Use an insecticidal soap that’s safe for edible plants if you spot any pests.
FAQ Is cilantro easy to grow? Cilantro is an easy herb to grow as long as it has mild temperatures and adequate sun and moisture. How long does it take to grow cilantro? Cilantro leaves are usually ready to start harvesting in about a month after planting. Seeds take about three months to be harvestable. Does cilantro come back every year? Cilantro is an annual, completing its life cycle in one growing season.
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Miss Chen
2022年04月03日
Miss Chen
The Pilea peperomioides is a popular houseplant thanks to its attractive coin-shaped foliage and ease of care. This flowering perennial in the nettle family (Urticaceae) is native to southern China, growing naturally along the base of the Himalayan mountains. The Pilea peperomioides has many different common names and may also be referred to as the Chinese money plant, coin plant, pancake plant, and UFO plant. It is grown primarily for its unique foliage - and although it can produce small, white flowers throughout the spring months, the Pilea peperomioides often does not flower when grown indoors. Learn how to grow this attractive houseplant! Botanical Name Pilea peperomioides Common Name Chinese money plant, coin plant, pancake plant, UFO plant Plant Type Evergreen perennial Mature Size 12 inches tall Sun Exposure Bright indirect light Soil Type Well-draining, rich Soil pH 6.0-7.0 Bloom Time Spring Flower Color White Native Area China Pilea Peperomioides Care Although this popular houseplant may be difficult to get your hands on, once you have one it is surprisingly easy to care for. Provide your Pilea peperomioides with bright light, semi-regular watering, and some light feeding in the spring and summer months and it will thrive. Plus, Chinese money plants are easy to propagate, and a healthy plant will produce plenty of offshoots which you can easily separate to create more plants. Share them with friends, or keep them for yourself - once you have a Chinese money plant, you will never need to buy another one!
Light The Pilea peperomioides thrives in medium to bright indirect light. Rotate your plant regularly to keep it looking symmetrical. Avoid locations that receive harsh, direct light as it will burn the delicate leaves. While this plant can adapt to lower light conditions; it will become leggy, grow fewer offshoots, and the coin-shaped leaves may become smaller. Overall, this plant is healthiest and most attractive when grown in bright light conditions. Soil Plant your Pilea peperomioides in rich, well-draining soil. A high-quality organic potting mix that is peat-based or coir-based is best. Amend the soil with perlite to increase the drainage and ensure the soil does not become waterlogged. A soil pH between 6.0-7.0 is best for this plant. Water This evergreen perennial is considered to have medium water needs. Allow the plant to nearly dry out between waterings and then water well. The leaves of a Pilea peperomioides will begin to droop when it dries out, which is a good indication that it’s time for watering. Temperature and Humidity The average household temperature and humidity are fine for the Pilea peperomioides. Where possible, avoid overly dry conditions - which usually means keeping the plant away from heating vents or baseboards. The Chinese money plant is hardy to freezing temperatures, but when kept indoors avoid exposing it to temperatures below 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 degrees Celsius). However, a short period of cold exposure in the winter months may help to encourage blooming. Fertilizer The Pilea peperomioides benefits from monthly fertilization in the spring and summer months. Use a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer for best results. Avoid fertilizing during the fall and winter months when the plant has gone into dormancy. Potting and Repotting Pilea Peperomioides When properly cared for a Pilea peperomioides is fast-growing and can quickly fill its pot with roots and offshoots. Yearly repotting in the early spring or summer months to refresh the soil, remove offshoots (if you wish), and upgrade the pot size is recommended. When choosing a pot for your Chinese money plant the most important thing to take into consideration is proper drainage. In short, ensure that the pot has a drainage hole! The plant adapts well to plastic, ceramic, and terracotta pots, although, if you choose a terracotta pot, be aware that you may need to water your Pilea more frequently as terracotta absorbs water from the soil. Propagating Pilea Peperomioides Fondly nicknamed the “sharing plant,” a healthy Pilea peperomioides is very easy to propagate as it will grow offshoots readily. These offshoots grow up from the root system, but can also grow from the nodes along the stem of the mother plant, usually in places where old leaves have fallen off. Once the offshoots are a couple of inches tall, it is safe to separate them from the mother plant if you wish. If you want a plant with a fuller, bushier look you can also leave these offshoots on the mother plant.
To separate an offshoot from the roots of the mother plant, gently dig around in the soil to expose the roots of the offshoot, and with a clean knife or pruning shears, cut the main root an inch or two below the soil. Immediately move the separated cutting into some moist soil in a separate potting container. Keep the soil moist (but not waterlogged) until the new plant has established a root system in the new pot, and then resume a regular watering and fertilization schedule. Common Pests/Diseases The Pilea peperomioides is not prone to any particular pests or diseases, but when grown indoors it is susceptible to a variety of common houseplant pests. Keep an eye out for mealybugs, scale, fungus gnats, and spider mites and treat accordingly if you notice an infestation starting.
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Miss Chen
2022年04月01日
Miss Chen
Gardeners deemed Rehmannia elata to be 'Chinese foxglove' because the tubular flowers bear a resemblance to digitalis, the foxglove plant. The two plants, however, are actually unrelated. With fast-growing, small Chinese foxglove, spikes of dangling, bell-shaped, rose-pink blossoms poke up from scalloped, glossy green leaves. Unlike traditional foxglove, however, Chinese foxglove petals of the bell-lip flare open and outward. Spring-planted seeds may not bloom the first year, but to get around this frustration, you can plant the seeds in the fall for gorgeous flowers the following summer. Although Chinese foxglove is not as hardy as its lookalike, digitalis, it is more versatile, growing well in shade and is even fairly drought-tolerant. Botanical Name Rehmannia elata Common Name Chinese foxglove Plant Type Herbaceous perennial Mature Size 2-3 ft. wide, 1.5-3 ft. wide Sun Exposure Full sun, partial shade Soil Type Well-draining, rich soil Soil pH 6.5-7 Bloom Time Summer, fall Flower Color Pink, purple Hardiness Zones 7-10 Native Area China Toxicity Toxic to humans and animals Chinese Foxglove Care The prolific blooms are long-lasting and will repeat bloom for three to four months, unlike traditional foxglove. The plants might flop over as the older blooms make way for younger blossoms, so you can stake them to keep them upright if desired. Chinese foxgloves help to light up shade gardens and that is where they grow happiest. They begin blooming as spring woodland flowers fade. They provide a nice accent to hosta, and the glossy leaves and nodding blossoms contrast well with astilbe. Because the plants can be fairly wide, give them some space when planting in a garden. Chinese foxglove can become invasive in certain areas, particularly when grown in moist, rich soil. If your plant starts to become aggressive, cut back on either food or water, to stress the plants and slow their growth. Light You can grow Chinese foxglove in full sun to partial shade. Although the plant prefers sun, they will still flower quite well in shade and can even handle dry shade. In full sun, they will need extra water during hot spells. Soil Chinese foxglove are not particular about soil pH, although they do best in a neutral pH of about 6.5-7.0. However, they do need well-draining soil: The roots will rot in soil that remains wet for extended periods. Poor-draining soil can also cause problems during the colder, winter months. Water For best results, water daily by using a soaker hose or drip irrigation, especially during the first year. Once established, Chinese foxglove has good drought-tolerance, but mostly in the shade. The plant can tolerate being watered just once a week, but the flowers won't be as prolific as if it is watered every day. Temperature and Humidity Chinese foxgloves are only hardy in USDA hardiness zones 7-10, though they grow as a perennial in zones 8-10. In zone 7, it's unpredictable and is more likely to grow as an annual. Fertilizer A side dressing with compost or monthly feedings will also help promote flowering. Feed the plant with liquid fertilizer during the summer months to keep the blooms growing. Pruning Chinese foxglove are fairly low-maintenance. Plants should be deadheaded for continual bloom. Propagating Chinese Foxgloves You can divide your plants in the spring, but because they spread so readily, you probably won't need to. You'll have plenty of plants and if some die out, new ones fill in. How to Grow Chinese Foxgloves From Seed Start Chinese foxglove seeds indoors for best results. Although they can be sown outdoors once the risk of frost has passed, the plant's small seeds can be easily overwhelmed. Sow the seeds in good potting soil in small pots, seed trays, or plug trays. Expect germination within 15-30 days, depending on temperature, and then transplant out when the plants are at least 6-inches high. You can expect the plant to bloom about 70 days after germination if conditions are right. Overwintering In areas colder than zone 7, you can try starting over-wintering plants indoors or grow your Chinese foxgloves in containers and move the containers to a sheltered and protected spot for winter. Make sure the containers get periodic water and allow them to drain. Lifting the container off the ground with a couple of bricks will ensure the drainage holes are not blocked by frozen ground. In warmer climates where there will still be infrequent freezing temperatures, Chinese foxglove should be given some protection, like a thick layer of mulch, during cold winters. Common Pests and Diseases Although Chinese foxgloves are generally pest free, slugs and snails may munch on its leaves. Both can be treated by leaving small containers of beer around your garden.
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Miss Chen
2022年03月30日
Miss Chen
The flowering quince (Chaenomeles speciosa) is a thorny, multi-stemmed deciduous shrub with a somewhat messy growth habit but beautiful red, orange, white, or pink flowers to go with shiny, dark green foliage. Related to roses, flowering quince has a thorny habit and easy-to-grow nature that makes it a good choice for barrier or border plantings. The shrub is a dense mound of gray-brown spiny twigs with five-petal flowers about 2 inches in diameter. The flowers last for about 10 to 14 days and are followed by yellowish-green fruits that can be used in preserves and jellies. The oval leaves with serrated edges are a glossy dark green, growing to a maximum of about 3.5 inches. Flowering quince is typically planted in the winter months and watered consistently until the roots are established. Botanical Name Chaenomeles speciosa Common Names Flowering quince, Chinese flowering quince Plant Type Deciduous shrub ​Mature Size 6-10 ft. tall, 6-10 ft. wide Sun Exposure Full Soil Type Loamy Soil pH Neutral to acidic Bloom Time Late winter, early spring Flower Color White, orange, red, or pink Hardiness Zones 4 to 9 (USDA) Native Area Asia Flowering Quince Care Most gardeners find flowering quince to be easy to grow and care for. It grows adequately in most soil types other than alkaline clay, and pruning is necessary only if you decide to shape the shrub. Its dense, thorny growth habit makes flowering quince a good low-maintenance option where a dense, impenetrable hedge, shrub, or border is required. If you don't want the shrub to spread, then make sure to remove suckers at ground level as they appear.
With its thorny habit and relatively short bloom season, flowering quince is not a great specimen plant, but it works well planted in mass along borders or as an informal barrier hedge. In large mixed borders, it can provide an early-spring accent. The fruit from quince shrubs (especially the related C. japonica) can be used in jams and jellies. Flowering quinces are known to be plants that attract hummingbirds. Light Grow flowering quince shrubs in full sun. It can grow in partial sun, but the flower display will be better if the plant is exposed to full sunlight. Soil Plant flowering quince shrubs in well-drained loam soil for the best flowering display. An overly alkaline soil pH can lead to problems with chlorosis, so keep the soil pH slightly acidic or neutral.1 These plants can be grown in clay and sandy soils but may be less vigorous. Water Mulch the base of the shrubs to suppress weeds and retain soil moisture. While these are reasonably drought-tolerant shrubs once established, young plants will need to be watered at times. Water in the morning so excess moisture has time to dry before evening. Sprayed water can cause leaf spots, and leaves may drop if the foliage stays wet. Temperature and Humidity Maintaining an even temperature and humidity are crucial for propagating flowering quince via stem cuttings. Temperature also plays a big part in growing this plant from seeds. Once flowering quince is established, though, the plant is quite forgiving of a wide range of temperature and humidity levels. This shrub is quite cold-hardy, tolerating temperatures as low as minus 25 degrees Fahrenheit. Fertilizer Feed flowering quince with a slow-release, all-purpose fertilizer in early spring before new growth occurs, or apply compost as a soil amendment. Scatter the fertilizer carefully on the soil around the plant; do not let it touch the foliage, as it can scorch the leaves. Follow with a deep watering to distribute the fertilizer around the roots. Flowering Quince Varieties Flowering quince is a member of the rose family as evidenced by its thorny stems and flowers and leaves that resemble those of roses. It is one of the oldest of all landscape plants, having been cultivated for thousands of years in Asia. In natural environments, the different varieties of the native species grow six to 10 feet high with a similar spread. Several cultivars of flowering quince are commonly sold at garden centers, and there are also hybrid crosses of other Chaenomeles species. These are a few of the smaller-sized varieties: Chaenomeles x superba 'Jet Trail' grows 3 to 4 feet tall with white flowers. Chaenomeles speciosa 'Orange Delight' has bright orange double blooms that make for a gorgeous spring display. Double Take series: 'Scarlet Storm,' 'Orange Storm,' and 'Pink Storm' grow to 5 feet high with double flowers of scarlet, orange, or pink. They are grown in USDA hardiness zones 5 to 8. This series is deer-resistant, but they are not resistant to rabbits. Propagating Flowering Quince Propagating flowering quince is done through stem rooting or seeds.
Seeds: In order for seeds to germinate, they must go through stratification or a freeze and thaw cycle. You can mimic the winter cold by putting the seeds in the refrigerator for 60 to 90 days; then remove them, plant in soil, water, and cover with plastic until germination occurs. Transplant seedlings into separate containers once two sets of true leaves develop. Keep the soil moist but not damp. Continue growing the plants until they reach a height of about 12 inches, then transplant. Cuttings: Cut several stem clippings (about 6 inches long) from the previous year's growth. The diameter of the stems should be that of a pencil. Leave the top leaves intact, but remove the rest of the leaves. Score the bottom section of each stem cutting to reveal the cambium layer beneath the bark. Dip the cutting in a rooting hormone, then embed it in a well-watered, sandy, general-purpose soil. Cover with plastic and set it in a spot with bright light but not direct sun. After a month, check to see if the cutting has rooted by gently tugging the stem. If the stem resists pulling, then it is rooting properly. Wait one more month and then transplant outdoors. Pruning Prune just after blooming is over since the bushes bloom on old wood. Pruning should be fairly light, but when done immediately after blooming it will stimulate new growth that makes for more profuse blooming the following spring. Common Pests/Diseases Flowering quince is susceptible to fungal leaf spot. Fireblight and scab can sometimes occur. Aphids can badly damage new growth but the damage is not life-threatening. Other insect pests include scale and mites. Chlorosis (yellowing of the foliage) can occur in high pH (alkaline) soils.
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Miss Chen
2022年03月28日
Miss Chen
Chinese fan palms (Livistona chinensis) are popular landscape plants in warm, humid climates and are very suitable as indoor potted palms. These palms are also known by the common name fountain palm due to the way their fronds arch up and then spill downward like water from a fountain. Each frond can grow 40 to 60 inches long. It is best to plant Chinese fan palms in the spring. These slow-growing palms have a bushy appearance when they are young. But in roughly a decade, their single, slender, grayish-brown trunk will have grown tall enough enough to be classified as a tree. Fan palms can live for approximately 40 years. Botanical Name Livistona chinensis Common Names Chinese fan palm, fountain palm Plant Type Tree, palm Mature Size 30-50 feet tall, 10–12 foot spread Sun Exposure Full to partial sun Soil Type Loamy, moist, well-drained Soil pH Acidic, neutral Bloom Time Spring Flower Color Cream Hardiness Zones 9–11 (USDA) Native Area Asia Chinese Fan Palm Care Chinese fan palms are fairly hardy and are not overly particular about their growing conditions, which makes them a good choice for beginner gardeners. Still, providing the right amount of light, warmth, and water is a must for growing a healthy plant. Whether you grow these palms in a container or in the ground, they require good soil drainage.
These plants generally don’t have any serious issues with pests or diseases. However, they are susceptible to scale insects and spider mites, which can damage the foliage and potentially kill a plant. An insecticidal soap or neem oil spray can be an effective treatment to treat infestations. Light Chinese fan palms grow best in full sun to partial shade, meaning at least six to eight hours of direct sunlight on most days. Young palms prefer some shade, especially from the hot afternoon sun. Indoors, these palms do best located by a bright window with indirect light. Soil These palms can tolerate a variety of soil types, including sandy and clay, if there is good drainage. They thrive in a rich loamy soil with a slightly acidic to neutral soil pH. For container-grown plants, use a quality potting mix made especially for palms. Water Lightly moist but not soggy soil is ideal for Chinese fan palms. Overwatering can cause root rot and other diseases, which can ultimately kill the plant. Established Chinese fan palms do have some drought tolerance, but you must water them during dry spells and/or very hot weather. During the winter months, allow the soil to dry out for container-grown plants because the palm isn’t actively growing. Increase water during the spring, summer, and fall. Temperature and Humidity Unlike many other palm species, Chinese fan palms actually have some resistance to cold and frost. They can survive temperatures as low as 15 to 20 degrees Fahrenheit, though this will likely damage some foliage. They thrive in warm, humid weather. To raise humidity and prevent foliage from drying out, regularly mist the palm. Indoors, protect your palm from drafts as well as airflow from heating and air-conditioning vents. Fertilizer Fertile soil will promote faster and healthier growth on these palms. Apply a palm fertilizer from late winter to early fall, following label instructions. Fan Palm Varieties Here are several other plants that also use the common name of fan palm: European fan palm (Chamaerops humilis): A native of Europe, this palm is known for being quite hardy with fairly good cold tolerance. California fan palm (Washingtonia filifera): Also known as the desert fan palm, this plant can grow 40 to 60 feet tall and is the largest native palm in the United States. Real fan palm (Hyphaene petersiana): Also known as the makalani palm, this palm is native to subtropical regions in Africa and is used as a source of food and materials by both the people and wildlife in the area. Pruning Chinese fan palms typically don’t require much pruning. They will develop their cascading shape on their own. However, to keep your palm looking tidy, it’s a good idea to prune off the dead fronds at the bottom of the crown once a year or as often as you wish. Wait until the fronds have fully turned brown before removing them because fronds that are in the process of depreciating are still providing nutrients to the plant.
Potting and Repotting Chinese Fan Palms If you want to grow your Chinese fan palm in a container, select a pot that is slightly larger than the plant's root ball. The pot also should have ample drainage holes. An unglazed clay container is ideal because it will allow excess moisture to escape through its walls and drainage holes. You won't need to re-pot these slow-growing palms often, which is ideal because their roots are fragile and can easily be damaged in the process. You’ll know it’s time for a larger container when you see roots growing out of the drainage holes and up above the soil line. When this occurs, select a larger pot that provides more space for the root ball. Gently ease the palm’s root ball out of its old container, and plant it at the same depth in the new one. Fill around it with fresh palm potting mix, and firm up the soil. Then, water the palm thoroughly.
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Miss Chen
2022年03月26日
Miss Chen
Chinese evergreen is an attractive decorative plant native to Asia with several interesting varietals. They all have large, narrow, and glossy oval leaves on short stems, and flowers (on older plants) that bloom in spring or summer. The Chinese evergreen is one of the most popular houseplants and its color variations—from dark green and silver to red—add personality to your home's decor. Chinese evergreens are slow-growing and make excellent indoor foliage plants that can be potted and cared for year-round. Take care if you have pets because the plant is toxic to dogs and cats.1 Common Name Chinese evergreen, Philippine evergreen Botanical Name Aglaonema commutatum Family Araceae Plant Type Herbaceous perennial Mature Size 1–2 ft. tall, 1–2 ft. wide Sun Exposure Partial shade, full shade Soil Type Peaty, well-drained Soil pH Acidic Bloom Time Spring, summer Flower Color White Hardiness Zones 10–12 (USDA) Native Area Asia Toxicity Toxic to dogs and cats Chinese Evergreen Care If you're looking for a beautiful, easy-to-care-for houseplant, a Chinese evergreen may be the way to go. Beloved for its (nearly) hands-free care, the plant is simple to nurture, provided you follow one simple rule: The lighter the variegation on the plant's leaves, the more sunlight it will need. Once you understand how that applies to your specific Chinese evergreen, you should have no problem helping it thrive. Beyond that, keep your plant warm and moist, and you'll be rewarded with a long-lasting, stable houseplant that will not outgrow its pot anytime soon. Light Darker green varieties of Chinese evergreens can grow in near-shade, while the variegated varieties require a bit more bright light. Take care not to expose any of the plants (no matter the variety) to direct sunlight, as the harsh rays can easily burn the delicate leaves. Soil Ultimately, the Chinese evergreen isn't particularly picky when it comes to the soil it's planted in. Typically, a well-drained, slightly acidic potting soil is perfect for the plant. If you find that your chosen soil is retaining too much water, try mixing in sand or perlite to aid in drainage. You should also make sure to plant your Chinese evergreen in a pot with ample drainage holes at its base.
Water The Chinese evergreen plant thrives in moist but not water-logged soil. To achieve this balance, water your plant thoroughly, then allow it to dry out before watering again. You can maintain this cadence through the spring, summer, and fall, tapering off in the winter (but never letting the plant dry out completely). Temperature and Humidity These plants do not like cold drafts or temperatures below 65 degrees Fahrenheit. Be sure to keep your Chinese evergreen away from windows or vents that blast in cool temperatures—the warmer the spot you can find, the better. Due to its high humidity requirements, some growers consider Chinese evergreen to be a greenhouse plant. It will do best in the warm, humid, and bright environment of a greenhouse, but it can be successfully grown indoors by coming as close as possible to these conditions. To increase the humidity levels around your plant, mist it frequently, and consider placing it in a humidity-prone area of your home, like your kitchen or bathroom. If your home is particularly dry, you can invest in a small space humidifier to put near your plant. Fertilizer For best results, feed your Chinese evergreen with slow-release pellets or liquid fertilizer twice a year, at the beginning and end of its growing season. Propagating Chinese Evergreen Chinese evergreens can be propagated using stem cuttings or by dividing the plants during repotting. Wait until the middle of the summer when the weather is warmest to propagate Chinese evergreen. To propagate with stem cuttings: Use a disinfected, sharp cutting tool to take a stem from the mother plant that's several inches long. Dip the bottom end in root hormone and put the cutting in a glass of water placed in indirect sunlight. Roots should form in three to four weeks. Carefully and gently transfer your cutting to a pot filled with well-draining potting soil and keep moist. To propagate by division: Lay the pot carefully on its side. Use a trowel to loosen the soil on the sides of the container. Gently take the plant and soil out of the pot. Lightly shake the dirt from the roots. Carefully tease apart the roots (this plant likes to be a bit root bound so move slowly) to separate a clump for repotting. Repot the clump in a pot filled with well-draining potting soil. Keep both the original plant and the divided plant a bit extra moist for a few weeks until they are both established and less stressed. Common Pests and Plant Diseases While not terribly susceptible to pests or diseases, the Chinese evergreen can occasionally pick up a common houseplant issue like scale, mealybugs, or spider mites. These can be treated with an insecticide or neem oil. Most other issues arise because the plant is kept too moist, and fungal problems (and root rot) are typical of an over-watered Chinese evergreen. Common Problems With Chinese Evergreen There's really one problem that you may find with the otherwise hardy and easy-going Chinese evergreen houseplant: curling or wavy leaves. Once the problem is solved, the plant should recover. Besides the common pests already mentioned, here are a few reasons why your plant's leaves may do this: Age: This is a normal occurrence in an older plant. Just remove the affected leaf. Too much light: Direct sunlight can cause leaf scorch. Remove burned leaves and move the plant to a bright area that is not in direct sunlight. Temperature changes: The plant prefers warm, draft-free spots. Low humidity: You may need to increase the humidity in the air around your plant with misting. Underwatering: Overly dry soil will affect the leaves. Slowly water the plant so the leaves can recover. Remove dry, crisp leaves. Overwatering: These plants prefer drier to overly moist soil. Let the top inch of soil dry out before watering to prevent root rot. If the pot is larger (around 10 to 12 inches in diameter), let more of the soil dry out—about halfway down.
FAQ Is Chinese evergreen easy to care for? They are very easy houseplants to grow. Best of all, they don't like full sun, so they're perfect for almost any room in your home, especially if window light is a commodity. How fast does Chinese evergreen grow? Chinese evergreen is a slow-growing plant, which means you rarely have to worry about repotting. What is the difference between Chinese evergreen and dieffenbachia? Chinese evergreen and dieffenbachia are often confused because their leaves look alike though there are subtle differences. Chinese evergreens will have more of a silvery look to their variegated leaves. But the dieffenbachia's leaves may be much larger and wider than a Chinese evergreen's smaller and more oval leaves.
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Miss Chen
2022年03月24日
Miss Chen
If you are looking for a plant that boasts dramatic, vibrant flowers, you may want to consider tropical hibiscus. The trumpet-shaped blooms are typically 3 to 8 inches in diameter with dramatic protruding stamens. Native to Asia, tropical hibiscus plants produce flowers constantly, but each blossom only lasts one day. The shrub is fast-growing and can add up to 24 inches per year, eventually reaching heights of up 15 feet when growing under the ideal conditions. In colder climates, they are often planted as container specimens that are either replanted annually or brought indoors during the cold months. Start new plants in spring, whether in the ground or containers. Common Name Tropical hibiscus, Chinese hibiscus, China rose Botanical Name Hibiscus rosa-sinensis Family Malvaceae Plant Type Evergreen shrub Mature Size 4–10 ft. tall, 5–8 ft. wide Sun Exposure Full sun, partial shade Sun Type Moist but well-drained Soil pH Neutral to acidic Bloom Time Summer to fall in containers; year-round outdoors in tropical climates Flower Color White, red, pink, orange, yellow, peach, and purple Hardiness Zones 9–11 (USDA) Native Area Asia Tropical Hibiscus Care No matter where you live, there's a way for to you enjoy a hibiscus plant, at least for part of the year. In warmer climates, tropical hibiscus plants are grown as perennial garden plants and used as shrubs for hedges and screens. Meanwhile, in colder climates, they're often planted in large containers as patio or deck specimens. With dozens of colors of flowers to choose from, the plants will reward your garden and home with days and days of vibrant blooms reminiscent of a vacation in the tropics. Light While you may assume that a tropical plant like the hibiscus loves the sun, it's more nuanced than that. In northern climates, your hibiscus plants will probably be happiest in full sun. However, if you live somewhere that's more hot and dry, you're better off putting your plant in a location that gets partial shade.
If your outdoor plant is consistently producing hibiscus flowers, it is happy, so keep doing what you're doing. If your plant is not producing buds and flowers, try moving it into an area that has more sunlight. Soil If you're growing your hibiscus plant in a container, use a well-drained potting mix as the soil, preferably one formulated for tropical plants. Outdoors, your soil should have lots of organic matter. The soil in both grow locations should be well-draining, to help avoid the risk of root rot. Water Tropical hibiscus is a thirsty plant and will thrive and produce blossoms only if it is given enough water. Depending on the heat, wind, and humidity in your environment, your plant may need to be watered daily, or even twice a day in extremely dry conditions. Typically, tropical hibiscus plants thrive best with 1 to 2 inches of water per week. Temperature and Humidity The tropical hibiscus plant prefers average temperatures between 55 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. The plant can be killed by even a few nights below 50 degrees Fahrenheit, so plan to move it inside if cold weather is in the forecast. Fertilizer When you buy a potted hibiscus, it likely has a slow-release fertilizer mixed into the soil, so it will not require additional feeding in the first few months. After that, regular feeding with a diluted fish emulsion fertilizer will keep it blooming vigorously. Types of Tropical Hibiscus Hibiscus rosa-sinensis 'Bonjour': This varietal constantly blooms with a mixture of red and pink flowers. It can grow 4 to 6 feet high. Hibiscus sinensis 'Magic Moment': This plant varietal boasts 10-inch flowers in hues of peach, orange, pink, and light purple, on plants growing up to 8 feet tall. Hibiscus rosa-sinensis 'Cajun Cocktail': This unique varietal has lovely variegated blooms that are around 6 inches wide, with no two blooms exactly alike. Pruning The best time for pruning tropical hibiscus is in the fall for both garden and container plants. Pruning will help keep your tropical hibiscus flowering as buds form on the new growth that has been stimulated by pruning, and removing some branches can let in some much-needed light. Give any hibiscus plants that are potted in containers a hard pruning before bringing them indoors for the winter season. Propagating Tropical Hibiscus Propagating tropical hibiscus using cuttings can give you the exact same plant as the parent. Propagate your tropical hibiscus from soft-stem cuttings taken in late spring or early summer after the plant has begun active growth for the season. Here's how to propagate this plant using cuttings: Choose a stem with a greenish cast that's 4 to 6 inches long. Use a sterile, sharp cutting tool to cut the stem. Remove all but the top set of leaves from the stem. Trim the bottom of the stem just below the bottom leaf node and dip the end in a rooting hormone. Put the cutting in a pot of well-draining soil that's half potting soil and half perlite. Moisten the soil and push a hole into the dirt in which you place the cutting. Put a clear plastic bag over the plant, but make sure it does not touch the leaves. Bagging the cutting preserves moisture and retains heat while it establishes roots. Keep the cuttings out of direct sunlight and in partial shade until they are actively growing, at which time you can repot them in a larger container. Potting and Repotting Tropical Hibiscus You will likely need to repot your plant every one to two years. Regular repotting helps ensure that the soil provides sufficient nutrition for the plant. For consistent flower production in container plantings, avoid very deep containers, which can cause the plant to spend its energy on root development at the expense of producing flowers. The ideal pot shape is quite wide but relatively shallow. The best pot will be an unglazed clay material and have several draining holes (not just one). Unglazed clay pots are porous and let water and air easily flow through the plant. Overwintering If you live in a northern climate, it is possible to overwinter hibiscus indoors, as long as you can provide two to three hours of direct sunlight daily. Your plant will also need less water in the winter, but dry indoor heat can be hard on tropical plants, so you will need frequent shallow waterings, as well as daily misting (if the air is dry). If you see any buds form on the plant, remove them—you don't want your hibiscus to waste any energy by flowering in the winter. In the spring, cut the plant back and put it outside once the nighttime temperatures are consistently above 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Common Pests & Plant Diseases Tropical hibiscus is generally free of pests and diseases, but you may encounter spider mites and aphids, especially if you bring the plant indoors.1 You should also try to remove all insects currently residing on the plant using neem oil, a liquid detergent, or by spraying the plant forcefully with water. Hibiscus plants can also develop bacterial diseases due to transmission from insects, rain, and fog—symptoms of such can include leaf wilt, dwarfing, stem rot, and distortion of leaves.2 Common Problems With Tropical Hibiscus There will be telltale signs that your tropical hibiscus plant may not be very happy. Here are a two common issues to watch for. Dropping Leaves If your plant has dropping leaves, appears stressed, or hasn't been growing well, there are three main reasons:
Your plant needs to be repotted. It's overheated from living in prolonged heat that's over 85 degrees Fahrenheit. It's being underwatered. Yellowing Leaves If you're seeing yellowing leaves at the top of the plant, chances are it's not getting enough water. Likewise, if your hibiscus has yellowing leaves in the middle or toward the bottom of the plant, it's probably drowning in too much water. FAQ Are tropical hibiscus plants easy to care for? Tropical hibiscus plants are relatively easy to care for as long as they get enough light and water. Why do tropical hibiscus blooms only last a day? It takes a lot of energy for a plant to create a beautiful hibiscus bloom. However, once the bloom fades, a new one immediately takes its place. Cooler weather may yield slightly longer blooms and newer hybrids have blooms that can last three days. How long will tropical hibiscus live? Many traditional varieties of tropical hibiscus can live for over 50 years, but newer hybrids have a lifespan of up to 10 years.
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Miss Chen
2022年03月22日
Miss Chen
With their glossy emerald leaves and petite shape, China doll plants make for an attractive addition to any indoor home garden collection. Native to the subtropical mountainous areas of Asia, China doll plants are evergreen trees that are a part of the Bignoniaceae family. When cared for indoors, they are moderately fast growers and can reach heights between 4 and 6 feet at maturity. When growing indoors, the China doll plant can be started and grown all year long. It's a bit picky about its growing conditions (specifically when it comes to light and soil), but if you maintain them, you'll be rewarded with a feathery, eye-catching plant perfect for bringing a pop of greenery to any corner of your home. Botanical Name Radermachera sinica Common Name China doll plant, serpent tree, emerald tree Plant Type Broadleaf evergreen Mature Size 4–6 ft. tall (indoors), 1–3 ft. wide (indoors) Sun Exposure Full sun, partial shade Soil Type Moist but well-drained Soil pH Neutral to acidic Bloom Time Summer (rarely blooms indoors) Flower Color White, yellow Hardiness Zones 10–12 (USDA) when outdoors Native Area Asia
China Doll Plant Care China doll plants require specific growing conditions in order to thrive indoors and can be fussy if these conditions are not met. The most important thing to remember when growing a China doll plant is that they require lots of light and moisture and do not react well to frequent changes in their growing conditions. Leaf drop commonly occurs in China doll plants if their growing conditions are not right or change too quickly. Light China doll plants require lots of medium to bright indirect light in order to thrive indoors. Choose a spot nearby a window, but make sure to protect your plant from any direct harsh rays, as they can burn the plant's delicate leaves and cause leaf drop. If you do not have enough natural light in your home to support a China doll plant (it will need at least four to five hours a day, consistently), you can supplement with an artificial grow light to help it thrive. Soil Plant your China doll plant in a moist but well-draining soil mix. Commercially available potting mixtures are typically adequate—if you notice that the soil is not draining well, perlite or sand can be mixed in to help improve drainage. Water Regular watering is vital to achieving a happy, healthy China doll plant. They should be watered once the top inch of soil is dry, the frequency of which will vary depending on the season and environment in your home. At the same time, care needs to be taken not to overwater China doll plants, as they cannot handle "wet feet" and will easily develop root rot if left sitting in water. To avoid this issue, choose a pot with ample drained holes at its base. If you notice the leaves of the plant turning yellow or crunchy, that's a good indication that it's not receiving enough water. Likewise, black tips on the plant's leaves can signal it's being overwatered. Temperature and Humidity Due to their subtropical origins, China doll plants appreciate warm and humid conditions in your home. They should be kept in temperatures between 65 degrees Fahrenheit to 75 degrees Fahrenheit, and, while they can survive in the typical dry household conditions, they will thrive when given extra humidity. To increase the humidity around your China doll plant, keep it in a room in your home that typically boasts more humidity, like the kitchen or bathroom. You can also mist the plant daily or place the plant near a humidifier. Fertilizer During its growing period (spring and summer), your China doll plant should be fed monthly with a balanced liquid fertilizer that has been diluted by half. Once the plant's growth has slowed for the year, you can decrease your feeding cadence to once every other month. Pruning China Doll Plants Regular pruning is the main form of upkeep for the China doll plant and should be done so regularly in order to maintain an attractive and successful plant. It's not picky about the time of year that it is pruned, so you can do so whenever you notice your China doll plant getting a little unruly. Every few months, trim back any stems that have gotten a bit leggy, those that are misshapen, or stems that appear to be dying off. Propagating China Doll Plants China doll plants can be propagated through stem cuttings. Propagating China doll plants isn't impossible, but it does take more time and care than some other varietals. When taking stem cuttings, ensure that they are green and not from the woody portion of the plant. The stem cuttings can then be placed directly in moist soil and covered with a sheet of plastic wrap in order to retain humidity. The soil around the cuttings should be kept evenly moist at all times. If the propagation was successful roots should begin to grow within three to four weeks.
Potting and Repotting China Doll Plants Less is more when it comes to repotting China doll plants. They appreciate being rootbound, so frequent repotting or disturbance can lead to leaf drop and a general failure to thrive. Only repot your China doll plant when absolutely necessary, and be sure to increase its pot size by only one-to-two inches when you do so. As an alternative to repotting, you can consider root pruning, which can also be known to help control the size of your China doll plant. Common Pests and Diseases China doll plants aren't known to be particularly susceptible to pest or disease issues, but there are a few afflictions to look out for. Like most houseplants, your China doll plant is at risk for scale, mealybug, and spider mites, especially if it's kept near a variety of other plants. These common pests can be treated with a natural insecticide, such as neem oil. Any diseases it may experience are often fungal (like leaf spot) and can be rectified by reducing the moisture around the plant slightly.
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Miss Chen
2022年03月20日
Miss Chen
The group of edible plants labeled hot peppers includes a small number of species and cultivars within the Capsicum genus. Most hot peppers are only slight genetic variations of the sweet bell peppers found in many gardens. Pepper plants are in the Solanaceae (nightshade) family that also includes tomatoes, eggplants, and potatoes. So-called "hot peppers" are not a botanical classification, but rather a group of pepper varieties grouped together by shape and/or heat intensity. When a man named Wilbur Scoville first devised a means to test the heat of a pepper in 1912, his hottest entry then came in at 20,000 units. At the time, this seemed plenty hot when compared to the Scoville rating of 0 units for a sweet bell pepper. However, decades of plant development have now created peppers with much greater spiciness. Most people regard a modern Halabeno pepper, at 60,000 Scoville units to be incredibly hot, but there are also peppers so hot they earn Scoville ratings in the millions. Such peppers are not grown for food so much as they are for conversation. Exotic though they may seem, hot peppers have virtually the same cultural requirements as all other species in the Capsicum genus, including sweet bell peppers. They are normally planted as nursery seedlings in the spring after the soil has warmed. From nursery transplants, peppers take 55 to 80 days to produce edible fruit. More exotic forms must be started from seeds started indoors many weeks before the outdoor planting date. Botanical Name Capsicum spp. (mostly C. annuum) Common Name Hot pepper, chili pepper, chili Plant Type Herbaceous perennial; usually grown as an annual Size 1 to 5 ft.; 1- to 3-ft. spread (depends on variety) Sun Exposure Full sun Soil Rich, moist, well-drained Soil pH Slightly acidic (6.0 to 6.8) Native Area Southern North America and northern South America Hardiness Zones 9 to 11 (usually grown as annuals) How to Plant Hot Peppers Gardeners zones 8 and above with long, warm growing seasons can direct sow peppers once the ground is warm and not too wet. But most hot peppers are either started from seed indoors or purchased as seedlings. If you start your own hot pepper plants indoors, give them plenty of time to develop. Seed should be started eight to 12 weeks before your last frost date. The seeds can be slow to germinate. The use of a heating pad or some other means of heating the soil will speed germination. However, it will also cause the soil to dry out faster and the seeds will need more frequent watering. You should see the first sets of true leaves within about six weeks. At that point, you can transplant them into individual pots and continue growing them indoors. Before planting them in the garden, harden off the seedlings, as they are very susceptible to cold temperatures. Wait to transplant in the garden until after all danger of frost and once temperatures remain reliably above 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Plant the seedlings about 1 inch deeper than they were growing in their pots. The base of the stems will send out small roots, making stronger plants. Space your plants based on their mature size; hot peppers do not mind being a bit crowded. Pinching off the early shoots will encourage the plant to become bushy and full. Hot peppers tend to set a lot of fruit all at once. While some varieties are sturdy enough to stay upright on their own, staking may be necessary to keep the fruits from resting on the ground. Hot Pepper Care Light Hot peppers require a full-sun location to grow well and produce ripened fruit. Soil Hot peppers can adapt to most soil types. They need well-draining soil, so some organic matter should be added. However, the taste will be hotter if the soil is a bit lean and not overly fertilized. A neutral soil pH of about 6.0 to 6.8 is best. A sprinkling of Epsom salts at planting seems to help fruit set, as does crowding the plants in their bed. Water Hot peppers need to dry out between waterings, but make sure they get at least 1 inch of water each week. They will drop their flowers if allowed to become drought-stressed. A good layer of mulch around the base of the plant will help conserve soil moisture. Temperature and Humidity Peppers need warmth (at least 70 degrees Fahrenheit) to grow and set flowers. However, at extreme temperatures, 90 degrees and over or under 60 degrees, they will drop their blossoms until conditions become more favorable. If the weather remains cool or if it is an especially rainy growing season, it will take longer for hot pepper plants to begin flowering and ripening their fruits. Peppers do equally well in dry and humid environments, provided soil moisture is maintained. Fertilizer Overfeeding will result in leafy plants with few peppers. Add some organic matter before planting to ensure good drainage as well as provide nutrients. You can also give them a dose of balanced fertilizer at planting time and again when the first flowers appear. Many gardeners add a small handful of Epsom salts to the soil at planting time as a magnesium boost. Hot Pepper Varieties It is thought that all peppers, hot and sweet, originally developed from the wild chiltepin pepper of Central America. The most commonly grown modern hot pepper varieties are cultivars of Capsicum annuum, a species that includes cayenne and jalapenos, as well as sweet peppers. In addition to the C. annuum varieties, other hot pepper species include Capsicum baccatum, Capsicum chinense, Capsicum pubescens, Capsicum frutescens. Some recommended cultivars to grow include: 'Poblano': These pepper fruits are deep green, almost black, and look similar to a bell pepper. It is one of the milder of the hot peppers, with a Scoville rating up to 1,500 units—more interesting than a bell pepper, but far from intimidating. 'Jalapenos': This variety can range up to 8,000 Scoville units, making it considerably milder than cayenne peppers and within the tolerance level of most gardeners. The fruits are up to 3 inches long and can be green, yellow, or red, depending on the cultivar. 'Cayenne': Rating up to 50,000 on the Scoville scale, this one is not for the faint of heart. The thin fruits are 1 to 2 inches long, and they mature relatively quickly. 'Thai': This pepper has tiny, elongated fruits that pack a Scoville rating of up to 100,000 units. 'Habanero': This variety is still the standard for the hot pepper lover who wants bragging rights. Fruits are 1 to 2 inches long. At the upper end, these peppers can be blazingly hot, up to 350,000 Scoville units. There are now several varieties of Habeneros available. For most gardeners, this is the upper end for peppers that will be readily edible. Beyond this, hot peppers become literally dangerous—such as the Carolina Reaper pepper, with a Scoville rating of more than 2 million units. Such peppers can badly burn skin and should be handled with great care. Harvesting You can keep your plants producing more hot peppers by harvesting regularly once they reach an edible size. Many gardeners like to allow their peppers to fully ripen and change color, but ripe fruits tend to lose some of their heat. Cut the fruits from the plant; don’t pull. Hot peppers are best used within a few days of harvest. They can also be canned or frozen. Growing Hot Peppers in Pots Peppers do fairly well when grown in pots filled with a general-purpose potting mix, provided you keep them well watered. Potted peppers can be brought indoors in the winter, but they will need a sunny window in order to continue producing fruit. Common Pests & Diseases Healthy pepper plants don't suffer much from serious pest and disease problems. However, be on the lookout for the following: Aphids and thrips can infest older plants. Symptoms include crinkled or very narrow leaves. These insects can spread viruses, which have no cure. Destroy any infected plants to prevent spreading the disease. Cutworms can slice off young plants at ground level. Wrapping the base of the plants with foil, toilet paper tubes, or something similar will thwart them. Even toothpicks on either side of the stem will do the trick. Fungal and bacterial leaf spots may occur. Affected parts should be removed and destroyed. Rotate pepper plants to another spot in following years, as pathogens may persist in the soil. Avoid planting peppers in any locations where other nightshades—such as tomatoes or eggplants—have been growing, as these species suffer from many of the same diseases.
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Miss Chen
2022年03月18日
Miss Chen
You might mistake nolana for a morning glory at first glance, but this flowering plant is actually a separate species, sometimes referred to as the Chilean bellflower. With blue or violet blooms and a tendency to creep, this plant makes a great groundcover plant or a flowering spiller in a container. It’s an annual in cool-weather climates and a perennial in warmer areas (hardiness zones 10 and 11). It’s interesting to note that this plant is actually a member of the nightshade family. You might know nightshades by their edible types, like tomatoes, potatoes, and peppers. This type of nightshade, however, gains its fame for its beautiful blooms all summer long. Botanical Name Nolana Common Name Chilean bellflower Plant Type Annual or perennial Mature Size 6 to 12 inches tall and wide Sun Exposure Full to part sun Soil Type Well-drained Soil pH Slightly acidic Bloom Time Summer Flower Color Blue, blue-violet, pink Hardiness Zones 10, 11 Native Area Chile and Peru How to Grow Nolana Growing nolana is not complicated but does require understanding what these plants need to thrive--which isn't much! First, ensure that you have a location with plenty of sunlight—8 hours of direct sun is preferable. Second, make sure that the soil drains well. Third, don't worry about watering unless conditions become extremely hot and dry for an extended period of time. If you understand these basic growing requirements, along with the more detailed information on growing conditions, you'll have a happy, healthy plant to reward you with beautiful blue blooms all summer long. Light Nolana is a sun-loving plant and thrives when planted in full sun. This plant requires 8 hours of sunlight a day for best blooming. It might survive, but won't thrive, if planted in partial shade. Soil While nolana is tolerant of a variety of soil types (including sandy or rocky conditions), one condition it cannot tolerate is too much water. Be sure that you plant it in very well-drained soil, otherwise it might be subject to rot. Drought tolerance makes nolana a great option for raised garden beds, container gardens, and rock walls, if sufficient drainage is in place. Use a layer of gravel to enhance drainage and ensure that its roots don’t become waterlogged. Water Nolana plants are moisture management masters and they don’t require much in the way of regular watering. The foliage of these plants excretes salt and features hairy filaments on the underside of the leaves, which serves to attract moisture. Do not water nolana on a regular basis unless there is a period of intense heat with little or no rainfall. If you notice that the blooms begin to wilt, you can lightly water the plant. Temperature and Humidity Native to Chile and Peru, nolana does best in hot, dry climates. The plant is well-suited to making the most of very little water and dry soil is preferred to overly damp conditions. In an ideal climate (typically hardiness zones 10 and 11), this plant is a hardy perennial. However, it also grows well across a variety of climates as a lovely annual. If you’re willing to replant nolana each year, you can grow this plant in hardiness zones 2 through 9 as well. Fertilizer There’s no real need to fertilize nolana. This plant does a lot with a little, is happiest to grow in well-drained soil, and isn’t particular about nutrient levels. If it's receiving sufficient sun, you can expect to enjoy beautiful blooms all summer long without any fertilizer. Propagating Nolana Nolana is notoriously difficult to propagate by cuttings or division; it is generally best grown from seed. Varieties of Nolana Nolana paradoxa: The most popular variety of nolana, this plant features blue, trumpet-shaped blooms and grows best in hot weather. Nolana humifusa ‘Little Bells’: Like other types of nolanas, this plant is known for its trailing nature. What makes it stand out, however, is its light blue blooms with distinctive purple veining in the flower throat. Growing in Containers The cascading nature of nolana plants makes this plant a good option in a container garden These plants will share space with other varieties while adding greenery and blooms that spill over the edge of the container, hanging planter, or rock wall. Because nolana requires very little water, be sure to plant it in combination with plants that have the same water and sunlight requirements There is not much you need to do differently to grow nolana in containers—other than ensure that there is plenty of drainage. As mentioned earlier, these plants can easily suffer from rot if they’re in damp, soggy conditions. Use a layer of pebbles or gravel at the bottom of the container, or add compost to the soil mixture to improve drainage.
Starting From Seeds If you want to grow nolana in your garden, you’ll likely be starting from seeds because nolana transplants are not often available at nurseries. Fortunately, nolana is not overly difficult to start from seed. To start nolana plants from seed, sow seeds in the spring—about 4 to 6 weeks before the last expected frost. Place the seeds in starter trays and cover them with a thin layer of soil or sand. Keep the medium moist until germination occurs. When the plants have achieved a few inches of growth, thin seedlings 4 to 8 inches apart to give the root systems room to grow. Provide as much light as possible to avoid the seedlings becoming leggy. After the last frost, transplant to your desired outdoor location. Landscape Uses The easy-growing nature of nolana makes it a good choice for a variety of landscaping uses. It especially shines as a flowering plant for use in water-wise landscapes, called xeriscaping. Because nolana doesn’t require much attention or water, it's a great addition to a low-maintenance garden. Because it has a creeping nature and grows where other plants won’t, nolana is also a popular choice as a groundcover. Even if your landscape environment has rocky or sandy soil, nolana does exceptionally well.
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来自： Heidi Liu
玉露
玉露
来自： 一万吨少女心
筒叶花月
筒叶花月
来自： KiddaHoo
郑州
保利安娜
保利安娜
来自： 辣木姐--璐颖
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玉露
来自： 倾心
福州
玉露
玉露
来自： 小欢喜
广州
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