绿手指
首页
动态
文章
百科
花园
设置
简体中文
已关注
+
关注
花园 (4)
动态 (4985)
Miss Chen
2021年11月16日
Miss Chen
The Boston fern (Nephrolepis exaltata), also known as the sword fern, is a popular fern species that grows in many tropical areas around the world. It is also commonly kept as a houseplant, especially because it doesn’t have high sunlight needs. The foliage of this fern remains evergreen. Its sword-shaped, blue-green fronds with many tiny leaflets are erect and arch as they grow larger. Like several other fern species, the Boston fern is a fairly slow grower and is best planted in the fall or spring. Botanical Name Nephrolepis exaltata Common Names Boston fern, sword fern, ladder fern, boss fern Plant Type Herbaceous, perennial Mature Size 2–3 feet tall and wide Sun Exposure Partial Soil Type Moist, well-drained Soil pH Acidic Bloom Time Non-flowering Flower Color Non-flowering Hardiness Zone 10–12 (USDA) Native Area Americas, Africa, Polynesia Boston Fern Care Boston ferns appreciate a little TLC. They like warm and humid conditions. And they don’t enjoy temperature extremes, either outside or from drafts, air conditioners, and heating vents indoors. It’s important to maintain stable growing conditions for Boston ferns, as any element to their care that’s out of whack can quickly damage the plant.
Plan to water frequently to prevent the soil from drying out. And fertilize from spring to fall when the plant is actively growing. Regularly misting your fern or using other means to raise humidity also is typically a must unless you live in a very humid climate. While pruning typically isn't a major chore, you should remove dead fronds as needed to keep the plant looking attractive. Overall, these plants don't have any major pest or disease problems as long as their growing conditions are met. Light Boston ferns do best in bright, indirect light. Too much shade can result in sparse fronds that aren’t their typical bright color. And too much sun can burn the fronds. So both outdoors and indoors, make sure direct sunlight won’t hit your plant. Soil These ferns like organically rich, loamy soil with good drainage. Poorly drained soil can cause root rot and ultimately kill the plant. For container Boston fern plants, use a peat-based potting mix. Water To successfully grow Boston ferns, it is key to keep the soil lightly moist (but not soggy) at all times. If the soil begins to dry out, the fern’s foliage can quickly dry out and drop off the plant. During the fall and winter months, slightly reduce watering, as the plant is not actively growing. But if you notice the fronds getting dry, increase the amount of water you are giving the plant. Temperature and Humidity Boston ferns prefer mild temperatures between roughly 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. They can’t tolerate either extreme heat or extreme cold. Temperatures above 95 degrees Fahrenheit can harm them, as can temperatures below 35 degrees Fahrenheit. High humidity also is critical for Boston ferns. They thrive in humidity levels of above 80 percent. To raise the humidity around your fern, set it on a tray filled with water and pebbles. Also, regularly mist the plant. If it’s not getting enough humidity, the tips of the fronds will begin to turn brown, which can eventually overtake the whole frond (and plant) if the humidity doesn’t increase. Fertilizer From the spring to early fall, feed your Boston fern with a liquid houseplant fertilizer at half strength once a month. No fertilization is necessary over the late fall and winter months.
Boston Fern Varieties There are several varieties of Boston ferns that vary somewhat in appearance, including: Nephrolepis exaltata 'Compacta': This is a shorter, more compact, and more upright version of the main species plant. Nephrolepis exaltata 'Florida Ruffle': A medium-size cultivar, it has feathery, ruffled fronds. Nephrolepis exaltata 'Golden Boston': Yellow-green fronds adorn this variety. Nephrolepis exaltata 'Rita's Gold': This is a compact plant with chartreuse fronds. Nephrolepis exaltata 'Fluffy Duffy': A small, dense fern, it has finely textured, feathery fronds. Propagating Boston Ferns Boston ferns are very easy plants to propagate by division. When repotting in the spring, carefully cut off a section of the fern with healthy roots attached. Even very small sections can become established as new plants with the proper care. Plant your division in fresh potting mix, and make sure to keep the soil lightly moist at all times. Also, keep the plant in a warm spot away from drafts and temperature fluctuations and out of direct sunlight. Once you feel resistance when gently pulling on the base of the fronds, you'll know it has taken root. Potting and Repotting Boston Ferns Pot Boston ferns in a container with ample drainage holes that's slightly larger than the plant's root ball. Once the roots are poking out of the soil, it's time to repot. Another telltale sign that the fern is out of space is if it's not growing as much as it normally does. Repotting is best done in the spring. Select just one container size up. Gently remove the fern from its old pot, and replant it at the same depth in the new pot using fresh potting mix.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年11月14日
Miss Chen
Bonsai is the ancient Japanese art form of growing ornamental miniature or artificially dwarfed trees in containers using cultivation techniques to mimic the shape and scale of full-sized trees. Pine trees are among the most common types of trees used for bonsai worldwide, although they are usually enjoyed by bonsai enthusiasts as they are not a great beginner option. Since pines grow in many different shapes, sizes, and colors, pine bonsai can be shaped into nearly every known bonsai style successfully. Several different species of pine can be successfully used for bonsai cultivation.
9 Popular Types of Bonsai Trees Botanical Name Pinus Bonsai Common Name Bonsai pine Plant Type Evergreen, coniferous tree Mature Size 60-80 inches (or desired) Sun Exposure Full sun Soil Type Well-draining, bonsai soil Soil pH 5.5 - 6.5 Bloom Time Does not flower Flower Color Does not flower Native Area North America, China, South-East Asia, Russia, Europe Pine Bonsai Care Pine bonsais are often considered to be a more advanced type of bonsai that are not ideal for beginners. They are one of the most difficult types of bonsai to understand, style, and prune since factors such as individual climate can greatly affect the requirements of the tree. An important part of growing and shaping a healthy pine bonsai tree is proper wiring. Wiring is the practice of wrapping a wire around the branches of the bonsai tree in order to bend and reposition the branches to achieve the desired shape. Wiring also promotes energy distribution throughout the tree. Avoid doing too much wiring at one time with pine bonsais so as to not damage the tree. Wiring is best done in the winter months from early autumn to early spring. Light For best growth, pine bonsai trees require full sun for several hours each day. The more light the tree receives, the shorter and more compact the needles will be. Leggy, elongated needles on a pine bonsai are indicative of the tree needing more sunlight. Soil As with most bonsai species, pine bonsai require well-draining potting mediums. Commercially available bonsai soils/mixes are usually best. These contain a mixture of akadama (clay granulate mined in Japan), pumice, organic potting compost, and fine gravel/grit. Pine bonsais appreciate a soil pH between 5.5-6.5. Water Pine bonsai trees prefer to be kept consistently moist, but they cannot tolerate being waterlogged. As a general rule of thumb, water whenever the top inch or two of soil is dry. Temperature and Humidity Pine bonsai are not suitable for growing indoors and should be grown outside year-round. Pines are hardy, frost-tolerant trees, although, when planted in containers, they should be placed in a sheltered location so they are protected from the worst of the winter weather. As with most bonsai, pine bonsai appreciate moisture and can benefit from regular misting if your climate is not naturally humid. Fertilizer Healthy pine bonsai trees require regular fertilization to achieve the best growth and appearance. Fertilize a pine bonsai from early spring to late autumn with an organic bonsai fertilizer for best results. Avoid fertilizers that are nitrogen-rich. Varieties of Pine for Bonsai The Pinus genus is extensive with over 100 different species. The following are some of the most popular for bonsai cultivation: Pinus thunbergii (Japanese black pine) Pinus mugo (Mountain pine) Pinus sylvestris (Scots pine) Pinus parviflora (Japanese white pine) Pruning Proper pruning is essential to the aesthetic and health of a bonsai tree. It is necessary to begin shaping pine bonsai from an early age to establish a strong branch structure.
In general, pine tree species are apically dominant in terms of their growth habit - meaning that they grow vigorously at the top and outer reaches of the tree. A poorly pruned pine bonsai will become top-heavy at the expense of the lower branches, and it will also establish fuller growth around the outer edges of the branches - which is unsuitable for the aesthetic of bonsai. In the spring and summer, elongated candles should be shortened and excess old needles should be plucked from any areas with dense growth. Reserve any heavy pruning of the main branches for the fall months to avoid excess sap loss in the spring and summer. Potting and Repotting Regular repotting is not a requirement for pine bonsai. Depending on the age of the tree, pine bonsai usually only require repotting every 2-5 years. This will be to refresh the soil and root prune to prevent the tree from becoming root-bound. Repotting pine bonsai is best done in the early spring, just after the buds begin to swell. When choosing a new pot for your bonsai tree, there are several things to take into consideration. According to the rules of bonsai, a pot's height and width should not be more than ⅔ that of the tree, both for function (root restriction) and for aesthetic and design. Color is another important factor in choosing a bonsai pot, and the general rule is that the color of the pot should appear somewhere in the tree. The overall goal is to create harmony between the tree and its pot. Whether you decide to follow the traditional rules of bonsai or not, bonsai trees can technically be grown in many different containers. Keep in mind that the pot should offer adequate drainage, and the size and depth of the pot relative to the tree are important in controlling its size. Common Pests/Diseases Unfortunately, pine bonsai species are susceptible to a number of common pests and diseases. Keep an eye out for aphids, spider mites, scale, and caterpillars, along with common diseases such as root rot (usually due to overwatering or lack of proper drainage), as well as fungal diseases.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年11月12日
Miss Chen
Blueberries include several species of flowering, fruiting shrubs within the Vaccinium genus, all native to North America. Relatives within the Vaccinium genus include the bilberry, cranberry, huckleberry, and lingonberry. Blueberry bushes have pointed, oblong leaves that are leathery to the touch and turn a brilliant red in the fall. The flowers appear in clusters of small, white, bell-shaped blooms in the late spring, leading to deliciously edible berries that ripen from green to a deep purple-blue. Cultivated blueberries are continually being bred for higher yields, heat and cold tolerance, and better pest resistance. Still, some people prefer the blueberries that grow wild in forests and fields. Wild berries are smaller, but many people find them the sweetest to eat. Blueberries are best planted in the early spring, and the shrubs have a slow to moderate growth rate. Three-year-old shrubs might produce a small harvest, but a meaningful harvest can take as long as six years.
Common Name Blueberry Botanical Name Vaccinium spp. Family Ericaceae Plant Type Fruit, perennial Size 1–8 ft. tall, 2–10 ft. wide (varies by species) Sun Exposure Full sun Soil Type Sandy, well-drained Soil pH Acidic (4.0 to 5.5) Bloom Time Spring Hardiness Zones 3–9 (USDA) (varies by species) Native Area North America How to Plant Blueberries When to Plant When selecting blueberry bushes, the best choice is bare-root plants that are 2 to 3 years old. Older plants suffer more transplant shock and will still take a few years to begin producing large harvests. Blueberry shrubs are generally planted in the early to mid-spring. In growing zones 6 and higher, they also can be planted in the late fall. Selecting a Planting Site Pick a spot that gets lots of sun but is sheltered from strong winds. Avoid a planting site that is close to tall trees or shrubs that might block the sunlight or compete for soil moisture and nutrients. Make sure the planting site has sharp soil drainage. You can mix some peat moss into your planting hole to keep the soil loose, acidic, and well-drained. Also, add a layer of mulch after planting. Evergreen wood chips, sawdust, and pine needles will help to keep the soil acidic. Blueberries also can be grown in containers as long as they get sufficient sunlight. Spacing, Depth, and Support Blueberry plants should be spaced in a row about 4 to 5 feet apart; adjacent rows should be spaced 9 to 10 feet apart, which will provide plenty of room for harvesting. For bare-root plants, spread the roots out into a prepared hole, and then cover them with soil, making sure the root ball is no more than 1/2 inch below the soil surface. For container-grown blueberries, plant them about 1 inch deeper than they were in the nursery pot. Blueberry plants generally don't need any support structure on which to grow. Blueberry Plant Care Light Blueberry plants need full sun to grow and fruit well. This means at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days. Soil Blueberries like very acidic soil with a soil pH in the range of 4.0 to 5.2.1 They also like soil that's rich in organic matter. If your garden has heavy clay soil, blueberries will fare better in raised beds where you can control the soil type. Sandy soil is preferable to dense clay. To get the right soil pH for growing blueberries, it’s best to amend the soil the season before you intend to plant. Garden sulfur or aluminum sulfur can be mixed into the top 6 inches of soil to lower the pH as needed. If you have your soil tested at a garden center or your local extension office, they will be able to tell you how much sulfur you’ll need. It’s wise to retest your soil before actually planting to make sure you’ve achieved the results you were after. Continue amending and tweaking the soil periodically because soil tends to revert to its original pH. Water Be sure the plants get a deep watering at least once per week. Blueberries are shallow-rooted and need at least a couple of inches of water each week, more during dry spells. Temperature and Humidity The temperature needs of blueberry bushes vary according to the species. The traditional highbush types prefer humid air and a cold winter climate, but the types bred for Southern gardens do not tolerate freezing temperatures. Most types prefer protection from drying winds. Fertilizer Don’t fertilize your blueberries in their first year. The roots are sensitive to salt until the plants are established. Ammonium sulfate is usually used as a fertilizer for blueberries, as opposed to the aluminum sulfur used to lower the pH. But you can use any fertilizer for acid-loving plants, including blueberry food and azalea food. It’s not uncommon for blueberry leaves to begin to yellow. Although this is usually a sign of iron deficiency, it is probably not caused by a lack of iron in the soil. More likely, this symptom is telling you that the soil pH is too high and the blueberry plants cannot access the iron that is already there. If you see yellowing progressing, have your soil pH tested and make adjustments as necessary. Pollination Blueberries can self-pollinate. But for best results, plant more than one cultivar. This will often result in a higher fruit yield and larger fruits. Types of Blueberries There are four main types of blueberry plants: highbush, lowbush, half-high, and rabbiteye. They are primarily classified by their size, and plant breeders continue to cultivate new varieties to improve their vigor. The main types include: Highbush (Vaccinium corymbosum) is a roughly 6-foot shrub hardy from zone 4 to zone 7. This is the most common and most productive type of blueberry. Varieties good for cold winters include ‘Bluecrop,’ ‘Blueray,’ ‘Herbert,’ ‘Jersey,’ and ‘Meader.’ Types known for big berries include ‘Berkeley,’ ‘Bluecrop,’ ‘Blueray,’ ‘Coville,’ ‘Darrow,’ and ‘Herbert.’ There is also a variety that produces pink blueberries, 'Pink Lemonade'. Southern highbush (hybrids of V. virgatum, V. corymbosum, or V. darrowii) is considered somewhat hard to grow. But several cultivars are popular for Southern gardens, including ‘Emerald,’ ‘Windsor,’ and ‘Springhigh.’ These are shorter, 3- to 6-foot-tall bushes with a 4- to 5-foot spread. They are grown in zones 7 to 10. Lowbush (Vaccinium angustifolium) are bushes well suited for the coldest climates, as far north as zone 3. They have a much different growth habit from other types, growing only 1 foot or so and spreading in a creeping fashion. Native to the northeast U.S. and southern Canada, the berries have a waxy covering that makes the fruit look grayish. These are sometimes considered a "wild" blueberry, and there aren't many named cultivars available. Half-high blueberries are a recent breeding development, including varieties developed by crossing highbush and lowbush species. Most of these grow 18 to 48 inches high. Popular cultivars include 'North Country,' 'Northblue,' and 'Northland.' The berries are typically a little less sweet than highbush blueberries, but they work well in pies, jams, and preserves. Rabbiteye (Vaccinium virgatum) was previously categorized as Vaccinium ashei. It is grown mostly in the southeastern U.S. Growing as high as 15 feet, it requires two or more varieties to pollinate correctly. Recommended varieties include ‘Powderblue,’ ‘Woodard,’ and ‘Brightwell.’ 'Delite' is another good late-bearing variety. Rabbiteye blueberries are good choices for gardens in zones 7 to 9. Blueberries vs. Huckleberries Blueberries and huckleberries come from the same genus. And the fruits might look similar on first glance. They’re both small and round with a blueish color. However, huckleberries tend to be more tart than blueberries, and their seeds are noticeably hard when you bite into them unlike blueberry seeds. Harvesting Blueberries Blueberries will typically be ready to harvest between June and August. Most blueberry plants will start to produce a small harvest by their third year, but they won’t produce fully until around their sixth year. Mature blueberry bushes produce around 8 quarts of berries per bush. It’s possible to extend your blueberry harvest by planting early, mid- and late-season varieties. The only reliable way to know whether blueberries are ready to pick is to taste them. Blueberries are their sweetest if allowed to stay on the plant at least a week after turning blue. Ripe blueberries will readily come off the stem. Simply hold a container under berry clusters, and gently pick them off with your other hand to drop the fruits into the container. Put them in the refrigerator unwashed as soon as possible. They typically can keep up to a week when refrigerated. Wash them right before use. They can be eaten fresh or used in baked goods. They also can be frozen and will keep in the freezer for around six to 12 months.
How to Grow Blueberries in Pots Blueberries are popular in home gardens because they can grow in a small space, even in containers. In fact, they are one of the easiest berries to grow in containers. Container growth is especially ideal if you don't have adequate soil conditions for blueberries. Use a container that’s at least 18 inches deep with ample drainage holes. An unglazed clay pot is ideal because it will allow excess soil moisture to escape through its walls as well. Use one container per plant, and choose a blueberry variety that remains fairly small. Select a potting mix made especially for acid-loving plants, and plant your blueberries at the same depth they were in the nursery pots. Keep the soil lightly moist but never soggy, and make sure the container gets plenty of light. Use a fertilizer made for acid-loving plants in the spring.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年11月11日
Miss Chen
Pilosocereus is a genus of cacti native to Mexico, the Caribbean, and Brazil. Containing many different species, Pilosocereus includes both cacti that are commonly used in cultivation and some that are so rare that they're almost unknown outside botanical sources. The most common houseplant in the genus is Pilosocereus pachycladus (also known as the blue column cactus), which large nurseries produce in bulk and sell wholesale. This desert species has a branched form and grows fairly quickly, often adding between 1 and 2 feet of height a year. Those that flower do so at night and all are most easily identifiable by their attractive blue-green skin, which is complemented by bright yellow spines. Pilosocereus cacti are mostly tree-like, and their flowers are shaped like tubes and grow fleshy fruits. In cultivation, they are planted and grown year-round, mostly in greenhouses due to their large size and need for warmth in the winter. Their name derives from the Latin term for “hairy cereus,” thanks in part to their spiny aureoles, many of which have a golden tint. Despite their large size, Pilosocereus cacti are commonly cultivated as domestic cacti in tropical areas due to their aesthetic beauty. Gardeners with the correct climate and enough space should consider plants from this genus for their landscape, while others can grow them on a smaller scale indoors.
Botanical Name Pilosocereus Common Name Column cactus, blue torch cactus, woolly torch cactus Plant Type Cactus Mature Size 6–12 ft. tall, 2–4 ft. wide Sun Exposure Full sun Soil Type Sandy, well-drained Soil pH Neutral to acidic Bloom Time Summer Flower Color White, white-yellow Hardiness Zones 9–11 (USDA) Native Area Mexico, South America, Caribbean Pilosocereus Cacti Care Though there are different types of cacti in the Pilosocereus family, they all generally necessitate the same type of care (which is also very similar to most other cacti, too). If you don't live in an extremely warm, desert-like climate, your best bet is probably to grow your pilosocereus cacti indoors, where you can most easily achieve and maintain the proper growing conditions. Light Like most cacti, members of the Pilosocereus family need lots and lots of direct sunlight to flourish. The brighter the light, the better, and you should aim for between 10 and 12 hours a day. If you do have a varietal with blue skin, the more sun it gets, the more vibrant the color will be. Soil When it comes to planting your cacti, arguably the most important factor is a well-draining soil. In order for your Pilosocereus cacti to be happy, they should be kept in a soil mixture that is dry (like a combination of perlite, sand, and limestone) with some organic matter mixed in. In order to aid in drainage, you can also plant your cacti in a terracotta or clay pot, which will help wick additional moisture away from the soil and prevent rot. Water Weekly watering should be sufficient for the water needs of this cacti family. They need a solid supply of water during the summer, but make sure not to overwater them, which can cause rot. A good test is to stick your finger into the soil about a few inches down. If the soil is dry there, it's likely time to water. Temperature and Humidity Being a desert dweller, the Pilosocereus cacti family loves hot heat. They prefer consistent temperatures above 70 degrees Fahrenheit and can tolerate triple-digit heat, so there's no need to worry if things are getting too warm for your cactus. On the other hand, Pilosocereus cannot withstand frost, cold, or freezing temperatures, so you should make sure its environment doesn't dip lower than 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Fertilizer This cactus family is already known to grow quickly, but a bit of added fertilizer can't hurt—in fact, it may help them grow even faster. Complementing their watering with a diluted liquid fertilizer once every few weeks during the growing season for best results. Be sure to use a balanced fertilizer like a 20-20-20 that's been diluted so it doesn't burn your cactus.
Pilosocereus Cacti Varieties There are many interesting Pilosocereus cacti varieties, including the previously-mentioned Pilosocereus pachycladus (which is also listed by some sources as Pilosocereus azureus). For instance, Pilosocereus gounellei (also known as the Xique-xique cactus), is another Brazilian native with an interesting forked branching habit that can grow up to 14 feet tall. Yet another varietal, the wooly torch cactus (Pilosocereus leucocephalus) has dense white hairs that grow in between its spines and all over its columns. Propagating Pilosocereus Cacti The best way to propagate a Pilosocereus cactus is with cuttings. You can cut off the top of the plant once it’s begun to mature and replant it as the bottom of a new one. Once the top-cuts have rooted, they should flower fairly early on in their lives. Cutting off the tops of existing plants is a good way to ensure flowering in your cacti. Common Pests and Diseases While these cacti don't have many serious pest or disease issues, there are a few common inflictions you should keep an eye out for. Most frequently, you'll notice an issue with mealybugs, which can affect nearly every part of the plant, from the roots to the ribs. To treat, inspect the entire plant, and use a brush or high-pressure water hose to remove as many of the bugs as you can from the plant. Then, treat it with an insecticide until all traces of infection have vanished.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年11月08日
Miss Chen
Whether you know it as blue beard or blue mist, Caryopteris x clandonensis is one of the few plants that produce genuinely blue flowers. This plant originated as an accidental hybrid of C. incana and C. mongholica and has since been bred to produce several popular cultivars. The compact size and soft gray foliage make blue beard plants a good choice in any size garden. Depending on the climate, these plants are grown either as deciduous shrubs or woody perennials that die back to the ground each winter. Growing from neat low mounds, the narrow silvery-gray leaves resemble those of willow. Ideally, the plant should be planted in the spring or fall, provided that your area doesn't get too cold. Clandonensis hybrids typically grow between 18 and 30 inches annually. FEATURED VIDEO How to Pick the Perfect Front Door Color Fun Fact The plant's common names come from the hue of the flowers. The blue or purplish blooms, appearing are mid-to-late summer, are clustered in panicles above the foliage in small feathery puffs.
Botanical Name Caryopteris × clandonensis Common Names Blue beard, blue mist Plant Type Deciduous shrub or woody perennial Mature Size 2 to 4 feet tall with a similar spread Sun Exposure Full sun Soil Type Medium moisture, well-drained soil Soil pH 6.5 to 7.5 (slightly acidic to slightly alkaline) Bloom Time Mid-to-late summer Flower Color Blue, purple; pink cultivars available Hardiness Zones 5 to 9 (USDA) Native Area Parent species are native to East Asia Blue Beard Care The compact size and soft gray foliage make blue beard plants a good choice in any size garden. This is a versatile plant, equally at home in perennial borders, shrub borders, or as a small hedge plant. It is very effective planted in mass and is highly valued for its late summer flowers when few other shrubs are blooming. Blue beard plants are low-maintenance—they tolerate both drought and shade, and they don't need much fertilizer, if any. However, like all other plants, blue beards have their preferences, so you should plant them in full sun and with medium-moisture soil if you want them to thrive. Light Caryopteris plants should be sited in full sun for best blooms. They will tolerate some shade, although flowering will be somewhat reduced. Blue beard may bloom later in the season when they are planted in a shady location. Soil Caryopteris prefers a medium-moisture, well-draining soil, though it tolerates fairly moist soil. It does not tolerate wet, poorly drained soils. They thrive best with a neutral soil pH, but will accept slightly acidic or slightly alkaline conditions. Water Blue bears are drought-tolerant, but water the plants regularly when young. Once established, they don’t require any supplemental watering unless you are having a particularly dry season. Temperature and Humidity Blue beard is reliably hardy in USDA zones 5 to 9; however, in the northern part of the range (zones 5 and 6), it may die back to ground level in winter. This is not a problem, though, because this is a fast-growing shrub that blooms on new growth from the current year. Fertilizer These plants are not heavy feeders, so some organic matter mixed into the planting hole should be all the food they need. Side dressing with compost is preferred over fertilizing Caryopteris plants. Too much fertilizer makes for a leafy plant with fewer blooms.
Varieties of Blue Beard Caryopteris x clandonensis : The original hybrid is one of the hardiest forms available and still one of the most popular. 'Dark Knight': This variety has the darkest blue flowers, but it is a bit more temperamental to grow. 'Sunshine Blue': This cultivar has deep blue flowers offset by yellow foliage. ‘Pink Chablis’: This Proven Winners introduction has pink flowers. ‘Longwood Blue’: This variety has sky-blue fragrant blooms and has a taller stature that's about 4 feet high. ‘Worchester Gold’: This cultivar has golden foliage and lavender flowers. Pruning To keep the plant shaped and flowering, Caryopteris plants should be cut down by at least half in the early spring. You can cut them back to 12 to 18 inches without harm. As the plants age, you will get some dead wood in the center. Prune this out as needed. If the plants die back in winter, remove the dead stalks in spring as new growth is beginning. Tip Blue beard is slow to leaf out in the spring, so don’t panic if yours looks like a dead twig. Be patient. Propagating Blue Beard Plants Blue beard may self seed, and the volunteers can be transplanted as you wish. You can also propagate by soft-wood cuttings in late spring. Cut 6-inch segments off new-growth stems, then remove the lower pairs of leaves. Dip the ends of the cuttings in rooting hormone, then plant them in potting mix. Keep the cuttings in bright indirect light and make sure they are well-watered until they have developed good root systems. Common Pests/Diseases Caryopteris can be bothered by the four-line plant bug in June. The foliage will get mottled, but it doesn’t harm the plant and the bug moves on quickly enough. If the bugs disturb you, insecticidal soap, horticultural oil, or neem oil will control them.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年11月04日
Miss Chen
Lilac lovers often feel that the bloom is just too short. Lilac bushes bloom for about two weeks in May, and before you know it, it’s already over. Gardeners who cannot get enough of the looks and fragrance of lilac have the option to plant late-blooming varieties. Or, they can add a Bloomerang® lilac to their landscape or patio. Bloomerang, first introduced in 2009, is a registered trademark hybrid, which means that its name is protected as a brand. Only the nursery that bred it is allowed to propagate the lilac and sell it under the name Bloomerang lilac. In May, around the same time as the common lilac, Bloomerang blooms heavily. In June, the shrub takes a break before starting to bloom again in July until the first frost. The spring bloom is different from the summer and fall bloom, when the panicles are smaller and darker in color than in the spring. The beautiful color and fragrance of the re-blooming lilac are not just for humans—butterflies and hummingbirds will seek it out as well.
Botanical Name Syringa x Common Name Bloomerang lilac, reblooming lilac Plant Type Deciduous shrub Mature Size Four to five feet height and spread Sun Exposure Full sun Soil Type Loamy Soil pH 6 to 8 Bloom Time Spring and mid-summer through fall Flower Color Lavender, pink, purple Hardiness Zones 3a-7b Native Area Non-native hybrid How to Care for Bloomerang Lilac Hybrids like Bloomerang lilac are bred for best performance and disease-resistance. As such, they are a low-maintenance and almost carefree shrub for borders, foundations, and privacy screens. Bloomerang can be planted as a specimen, in small groups, or as mass plantings. Light Bloomerang does best in full sun. It can tolerate partial shade, but it comes at the cost of reduced bloom. Soil Like all lilacs, Bloomerang prefers soil that is rich in organic matter. The soil can be neutral to slightly alkaline. Good drainage is essential; lilacs do poorly in soggy, wet soil. Water Mulch around the base of your lilac to retain moisture. In long dry periods, water it moderately but regularly when the top inch of soil feels dry. Temperature and Humidity Like most lilacs, Bloomerang needs an extended period of cold winter weather in order to bloom profusely. This makes lilacs unsuitable for hot climates. While Bloomerang lilac can be planted through zone 7, it is best grown in areas with cooler summers. In areas with hot summers, the lilac is better off in locations that provide some shelter from the strong afternoon sun. The shrub is not affected by humidity unless the weather is very hot and humid, which will slow down the reblooming. Fertilizer Fertilize Bloomerang lilacs twice, the first time in early spring right after the ground turns soft, and a second time after the spring bloom to give it a good boost for the continued summer bloom. Use a fertilizer that is high in phosphorus to encourage blooming, and avoid fertilizers that are high in nitrogen, as it will encourage only foliage growth, not blooming. Pruning Bloomerang blooms on old and new wood and does not require pruning. For a neater appearance, you can remove the spent flowers after the spring bloom but it’s not essential. Never prune Bloomerang in fall, winter, or spring, as pruning will remove developing flower buds.
Varieties of Bloomerang Lilac Bloomerang Purple ‘Penda’ is a standard-size cultivar with lavender-colored flowers. Bloomerang Dark Purple ‘SMSJBP7’ is a standard-size cultivar with dark purple flowers. Bloomerang ‘Pink Perfume’ is another standard-size cultivar with pink flowers. Bloomerang Dwarf Pink ‘SMNJRPI’ is a compact dwarf cultivar that reaches only two to three feet in height and spread. It has pink flowers. Bloomerang Dwarf Purple ‘SMNJRPU’ is another compact dwarf cultivar with purple flowers. Growing Bloomerang Lilac in Containers Unlike common lilac and other large varieties, Bloomerang can be grown in containers, especially the dwarf varieties. Keep in mind that lilacs, even compact varieties, have an extensive root system. The container should be large, at least 18 inches in diameter. Before you start, check out the common container gardening mistakes, such as filling the container in the wrong place. The correct 18-inch container for a Bloomerang lilac holds about 15 gallons and moving it after you planted can be cumbersome. Make sure your container has a drainage hole to prevent root rot. Sufficient watering is crucial to keep your Bloomerang lilac alive and blooming. Follow the instructions for watering container plants. Common Pests/Diseases Bloomerang lilac is more resistant to powdery mildew and leaf spots than common lilac. Because powdery mildew, a fungus, thrives in humid weather, ensure good air circulation in and around your Bloomerang lilac by giving it enough space. Plant shrubs at least 60-72 inches apart. It is also deer-resistant.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年11月02日
Miss Chen
The 'Bloodgood' cultivar of Japanese maple is an ideal tree for smaller yards. Most people use them as specimen trees, although they are also used in bonsai. They bloom in spring, and this is when the red in their foliage is often at its brightest. The color darkens in summer to burgundy, or even darker. Although the leaves can become even showier in autumn than in summer, the foliage is attractive for a full three seasons of the year. The leaves of this Japanese maple forms a rounded canopy in an attractive branching pattern: Rather than having a single leader, the plant will often have multiple sub-trunks. Many liken the leaf shape to that on a marijuana plant. The palmatum in the Latin name is also descriptive of the leaf. As on the human hand, where fingers radiate out from the palm, "palmate" foliage bears lobes that fan out from a central point. In late spring, this tree develops double-winged samaras that redden as they mature and add some ornamental value to the plant. This common tree may reach a height of 20 feet (with a similar spread) at maturity but is a slow grower. Botanical Name Acer palmatum 'Bloodgood' Common Name 'Bloodgood' Japanese maple Plant Type Deciduous tree Mature Size 15 to 20 feet tall and wide Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade Soil Type Chalk, clay, loam, sand Soil pH Slightly acidic Bloom Time Summer Flower Color n/a Hardiness Zones 5 to 8 Native Area Japan, Asia
How to Grow 'Bloodgood' Japanese Maple Trees If you plant this tree in the fall, it will benefit from new root growth that occurs during the dormant season: Roots of maples continue to grow throughout the fall and early winter months if temperatures are not below freezing. Also, planting in the fall allows the carbohydrates that are produced during the summer to be directed to root growth, since there is little demand from the top of the tree (which stops growing in late fall and winter). Alternatively, you can plant your Japanese maple in spring; just be careful not to disturb any parts of the plant that have broken bud and are producing new, soft growth. Mulch is key to growing your maple. Mulch shields the roots from summer heat and winter cold and ensures that the roots retain moisture. You also might want to stake the tree to prevent wind from rocking it back and forth as the new roots are becoming established. Just be sure to remove the stake after the first year, or at least change the tie if it's cutting into the bark of the tree. Light Dappled shade is considered the ideal exposure in most regions for this tree, but a bit more shade won't harm it. In fact, in hot climates, a somewhat shady location can help prevent leaf scorch. The leaves tend to develop some green in them in summer if exposed to full sun. Soil The soil should drain well and not be too clayey. Apply a loose mulch, such as wood chips or pine needles, over the soil at the beginning of the summer to help retain moisture. Keep mulch several inches away from the trunk of the tree. Re-mulch every year at around the same time. Water Water the leaves and branches of this tree semi-regularly, but only water the roots and soil when the weather has been hot and dry for an extended stretch. If the soil gets too saturated, it can cause root rot. Temperature and Humidity Plant your Japanese maple where it will be protected from strong winds (which can dry out the soil quickly), and avoid hot and arid sites. Extreme heat can lead to distress; keep the tree's soil mulched and adequately watered during hot weather to minimize damage.
Fertilizer Don't try to force this tree to grow faster by fertilizing it more than is necessary. In spring, before leaves emerge, add a small amount of organic slow-release fertilizer to the soil. Then fertilize the tree annually, around the same time you add the mulch (early summer). Varieties of Japanese Maples Red is the most common color for Japanese maples, although there are also various choices in other colors. Acer shirasawanum 'Aureum' (Golden Full Moon): Produces lime-to-chartreuse-tinged golden leaves; in fall, leaves turn orange and red Acer palmatum 'Beni-kawa': Leaves emerge in spring as rich green with slight red edges, then turn deeper green in summer before turning yellow and shedding in fall Acer palmatum 'Harriet Waldman': Grows to 15 feet tall (same growing conditions as for Bloodgood); new leaves start out pink but eventually turn three colors: pink, white, and green (pink and white fade as the tree ages, leaving green leaves) Pruning You can prune young plants to encourage a particular branching pattern. As the tree matures, pruning can be limited to standard maintenance tasks, such as removing dead branches, suckers, or branches. Common Pests and Diseases These trees are relatively immune to diseases and pests. However, insects such as aphids, scale, borers, and root weevils can be a problem, as can mites. Root rot and Verticillium wilt can strike if the tree is grown in wet, cold soil. Allowing the soil to dry out between watering sessions is a good way to prevent these diseases.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年10月31日
Miss Chen
The common name "blood lily" is sometimes used for a variety of species, but this name most frequently refers to Scadoxus multiflorus, formerly known as Haemanthus multiflorus. This unique plant produces large, spherical flower heads that look like red fireworks or fireballs. Made up of red, star-shaped florets with yellow-tipped stamens, these flowers explode from the landscape and attract bees, butterflies, and birds. Each flower stem is smooth and has no foliage. Bright green semi-succulent leaves may appear while the plant is blooming, but these leaves can also appear later. Blood lily plants produce red berries in the fall. Botanical Name Scadoxus multiflorus Common Name Blood Lily, African Blood Lily, Fireball Lily Plant Type Perennial Mature Size 24 in. tall, 15 in. wide Sun Exposure Partial Soil Type Loamy, sandy, moist but well-drained Soil pH Acidic, Neutral, Alkaline Bloom Time Summer, Fall Flower Color Red Hardiness Zones 9-11, USA Native Area Africa Toxicity Toxic to pets Blood Lily Care Despite its wild looks, the blood lily is quite easy to care for and does not demand much attention. Whether in the garden or a container, this plant does best with loamy, sandy soil that is moist but well-draining. A consistent watering schedule is important during its growing season. Bright, indirect light or partial sunshine is preferred.
The blood lily needs a time of rest in order to bloom year after year. Once the flowers are spent, stop watering and allow the plant to die off and sit dormant for the winter. After dormancy, adding fresh soil and watering more frequently will enable the blood lily to bloom again with vigor. Pests may include mealybugs or spider mites. Light Bright, indirect light exposure or partial sun is best, as the blood lily does not handle intense sun well. Afternoon shade is especially beneficial to protect these plants from the effects of the hot afternoon sun. Soil Loamy or sandy soil that is rich in nutrients is ideal for the blood lily. These soil types offer good drainage, which is important since these plants fare poorly in soggy soil. If potted in containers, mix rich potting soil with sand. This mixture will allow the soil to stay moist while offering excellent drainage, which is important for a healthy plant. Water Blood lily plants have moderate watering needs; avoid overwatering. Your watering schedule for a blood lily will vary based upon the plant's growing stage. When the plant is actively growing, water consistently to keep the soil slightly moist. However, as the plant begins to go dormant, stop regular watering and allow the plant to die off. Water only to prevent the soil and dormant plant from drying out completely. Increase watering when the plant begins to grow again. Temperature and Humidity These plants prefer warm climate conditions and do best when temperatures are at least 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Being native to Africa, the blood lily cannot tolerate frost or cold weather. Medium to high humidity is best. If kept indoors, misting the plant or setting it on a tray of pebbles and water will help increase the humidity. Keep it away from harsh drafts near vents or windows. Fertilizer Fertilize every two weeks during the growing season to encourage healthy growth. A fertilizer high in phosphorus works well for these plants and supports blooming. When the blood lily begins to die off, stop fertilizing. Fertilize again once its dormant period is over. Propagating Blood Lilies Propagating offsets is a simple way to multiply blood lily plants.
When offsets appear, allow the offset to stay attached to the mother plant for two growing seasons. After this, use sharp snips to cut the offset away from the mother plant, making sure not to damage the root system of either plant. Remove the offset and plant in loamy or sandy soil that is moist. How to Grow Blood Lily Plants from Seed Blood lilies can be grown from seeds, found with the plant's red berries. Harvest seeds from the berries once the berries fall off or drop when touched. When this happens, remove the berry flesh to get to the seeds. Place the seeds on the surface of moist potting soil. The seeds will germinate and form a bulb initially before sprouting. Keep the soil moist and allow the bulb to sit dormant. Growth should appear in a few months. Once sprouted, plant the bulb in an individual pot or a suitable outdoor location that is warm enough (above 60 degrees Fahrenheit) and with adequate light exposure. Potting and Repotting Blood Lilies The Blood Lily does not require frequent repotting. In fact, blood lily grows best if it is not disturbed. If you absolutely must repot the plant, gently work the plant out of its container, taking care not to disturb its root system. Repot the plant in a new container with a mix of potting soil and sand. Water generously and allow excess moisture to drain from the pot. Overwintering Blood Lilies Because the blood lily is not equipped to survive cold temperatures, it's important to take the necessary steps to overwinter this plant. For plants grown in the garden, dig up the bulbs in fall; place them in peat moss, and move them to a warm area away from frost, such as inside a greenhouse. Keep the bulbs dry. If the blood lily plant is grown in a pot, move the pot indoors and keep it as a houseplant during the winter. Be sure to provide enough humidity, since indoor air tends to be drier than the plant's typical growing conditions.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年10月29日
Miss Chen
The common bleeding heart (Lamprocapnos spectabilis; formerly Dicentra spectabilis) got its name for its pillow-like, heart-shaped flower that dangles like a single pendulous drop. Bleeding hearts are shade-loving woodland plants that bloom in the cool of spring. Although they stay in bloom for several weeks, the plants often become ephemeral, disappearing for the rest of the summer if exposed to too much sun or heat. The roots stay alive, and the plant will regrow in fall or the following spring. The fringed-leaf varieties of bleeding heart repeat bloom throughout the summer. There are many other species in the Dicentra genus called bleeding hearts, though these are primarily wildflowers that aren't commonly grown in cultivation. Bleeding hearts have a medium growth rate and reach their mature size in about 60 days. This plant is toxic to humans and animals1. Common Name Bleeding heart, common bleeding heart, fern-leaf bleeding heart Botanical Name Lamprocapnos spectabilis Family Papaveraceae Plant Type Herbaceous, perennial Mature Size 6 in.-3 ft. tall, and 1-3 ft. wide Sun Exposure Part shade to full shade Soil Type Rich and moist Soil pH 6.0 to 6.5 (slightly acidic); will tolerate neutral soils Bloom Time Spring Flower Color Pink, red, white Hardiness Zones 2 to 9 (USDA) Native Areas Asia Toxicity Toxic to humans and animals (most commonly dogs) Bleeding Heart Care In a typical growing season, a bleeding heart plant produces about 20 small flowers on its stems in spring. Its foliage usually enters dormancy in the midsummer heat, and this sensitivity to heat makes establishing new plants more challenging in warmer zones than in colder areas. In addition, the flowers are delicate and require protection from strong winds. Bleeding hearts usually bloom about the same time as pulmonaria, brunnera, and hellebores, and they all contribute to a beautiful woodland cottage effect. Bleeding hearts will stay in bloom for several weeks, but the foliage tends to go downhill after flowering. These plants will also self-seed if not deadheaded. If your bleeding hearts go dormant and disappear, plan to have late-emerging plants to fill in space vacated by bleeding hearts. Coral bells, ferns, foam flowers, hosta, and monkshood are good companions. Bleeding heart is relatively trouble-free, although common garden problems such as aphids and powdery mildew are occasional issues. The leaves are susceptible to leaf spots, and the easiest solution is to shear back the affected foliage. Although bleeding hearts like moist soil, they cannot tolerate heavy, wet soil and may get root rot if left with wet feet too long.
Light Bleeding hearts do best in part shade. Since it is such an early bloomer, planting near a deciduous tree is a good spot. The plant will be up and growing before the tree leaves out, and when the bleeding heart needs protection from the summer sun, the tree will provide it. Soil Bleeding heart prefers humus-rich, moist soil, with lots of organic matter, but it is not too particular about soil pH. It prefers slightly acidic soil but will do fine in neutral soils. Spread a 2- to 3-inch layer of organic matter, such as compost or well-rotted manure, over the existing soil. Work it in to improve aeration and create a loose soil that allows the roots to grow. It prefers a well-draining soil that will not let the roots get soggy and rot. Water Keep plants well-watered throughout the summer, especially in warmer weather. They require about 1 inch of water per week, either through rainfall or manual watering. If they are planted right next to a thirsty tree or bush, water them again that week with another inch. If your plants disappear until the fall or next spring, mark the spot, so you do not accidentally dig in the area while your plants are dormant. Also, even if the site is bare, continue to water the area to keep the bleeding heart's roots hydrated. Bleeding heart is a little more drought-tolerant than the other species, but it is still best to treat them all as woodland plants and provide a moist (but not too wet) environment. Temperature and Humidity A bleeding heart plant begins to yellow once the summer heat ramps up. This yellowing is perfectly normal and is a sign that it is storing its energy for the winter. Its ideal temperature is 55 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit, and it has a good tolerance for high humidity. Fertilizer Bleeding heart plants are not heavy feeders, so when to fertilize depends on the quality of your soil. If you have rich, organic soil amended every year, you will not have to feed at all. Bleeding hearts are woodland plants and do exceptionally well with a top dressing of leaf mold. Types of Bleeding Heart These cultivars of the Lamprocapnos spectabilis species plant also have some popular closely related species with similar growing characteristics: Lamprocapnos spectabilis 'Alba': A long-time gardeners' favorite with pure white flowers L. spectabilis 'Gold Heart': A variety with pink flowers and yellow-gold foliage L. spectabilis ‘Valentine’: Bright cherry-red blooms with white tips cultivar; stems are burgundy colored Dicentra eximia, fringed-leaf bleeding heart: American native with delicate fernlike foliage that will repeat bloom throughout summer; 'Zestful' is an especially popular cultivar with pink flowers D. cucullaria, Dutchman's breeches: Very similar to bleeding heart with flowers that look like tiny white pantaloons Pruning No pruning or deadheading is required since this plant may bloom again later in the season. Leave the flowers if you want them to go to seed. Trim back the foliage when it starts to brown and turn ugly. Fringed-leaf varieties can also get a little ragged-looking and can be sheared back to their basal growth; they will re-leaf and rebloom. Propagating Bleeding Heart Bleeding heart is usually planted from nursery seedlings, but you can propagate bleeding heart from seeds, clump division, or stem cuttings. Propagation by cuttings is best done in spring to early summer. If you are starting from seeds in the garden, sow them in the fall. Propagation is a good way to rejuvenate older plants that tend to flower less. Here's how to propagate bleeding hearts: Propagation by division: It is very easy to divide the root clumps of bleeding heart plants. You should divide after flowering is complete so you do not sacrifice bloom. The fringed-leaf varieties divide nicely early in spring as they are emerging. If the plant is in the ground, you will need a shovel or trowel. Other items you'll need include a sterilized, sharp knife and a flat surface. If you're transplanting into a container, you'll need a pot and potting mix. Dig a circle around the crown of the roots and pull up the root ball. The roots grow horizontally. Do not worry when cutting through the roots. Examine the root crown. Look for pink buds of growth. Cut through the root ball, leaving at least one bud per sectioned area (two to three buds per section is better). Replant the root ball in potting mix enriched with compost or leaf mold, or decomposing leaves. Water thoroughly, moisten the soil but do not leave it too wet or soggy. Propagation by cuttings: Bleeding heart can also be started by cuttings rooted in a growing medium. It can take 10 days to three weeks before rooting occurs. You will need sterilized pruners to take a 3- to 5-inch cutting from a healthy bleeding heart plant. You'll also need a container, an enriched, well-draining potting soil, and a plastic bag. Optionally, you can use a rooting hormone for improving rooting success. Take off the leaves from the bottom half of the stem. Fill the container with the potting soil, poke a hole in the soil in the center of the container using a finger. Dip the cut end of the cutting into rooting hormone and put it into the hole. Firmly put the potting mix gently around the stem. Water the soil to the point it's moist but not soggy. Put a clear plastic bag around the cutting, not touching the plant. If condensation appears on the inside of the bag, poke a hole in the plastic for some ventilation. Place the plant in indirect light. A bright windowsill will be too sunny and scorch the plant. Once you notice new growth, the plant has successfully rooted. Remove the plastic bag. Move the bleeding heart plant outdoors once it's rooted well and new growth is more abundant. Harden off the plants in a protected spot for a few days before moving them to their permanent spot outdoors. How to Grow Bleeding Hearts From Seed To starting seeds indoors, place the seeds in a pot of soil. Put the pot in a plastic bag and place it in the freezer for 6 to 8 weeks. Remove the pot and gradually reintroduce the plant to light and warmer conditions. The change in temperature and exposure to sunlight will allow the seeds to germinate and sprout. Bleeding hearts also tend to self-seed in the garden, though not invasively. The tiny seedlings can be carefully dug up and transplanted. Potting and Repotting Bleeding Hearts Bleeding hearts live well as container plants, but conditions need to be right. When potting it, opt for a large container, at least a 12-inch pot. They can become a substantial plant, growing more than 3 feet tall. A bleeding heart can grow for four to five years in a large container before being divided and repotted. Make sure you use well-draining, enriched potting soil. The type of pot you use doesn't matter—ceramic or plastic are fine—only make sure it has ample drainage holes so roots do not sit in soggy soil. To repot it, get a container with at least 2 to 3 inches of extra growing room around the root ball and below. Put at least 2 inches of new soil at the bottom of the pot. Center the root ball and put soil all around its circumference. Water thoroughly and keep the plant in a shady or partially lit spot. Overwintering Bleeding hearts naturally die back during the winter season. The rhizome or root ball will survive the cold winter even if the plant appears dead above ground. You can cut the stems down to one or two inches from the surface level. Keep watering the soil up until the first frost. At the start of the winter season, you can protect the roots and help them retain moisture by adding a two-inch layer of mulch on top of the plant stems. Remove the mulch as the frosty season ends. Common Pests & Plant Diseases The plant's most significant pest problems are aphids, scale, and slugs and snails. The easiest and least invasive treatment for aphids and scale is using an insecticidal soap or neem oil. Slugs and snails are best to remedy by physically picking them off and disposing of them in a bucket of soapy water, and they are easiest to find at night and in the early morning. In terms of disease, bleeding hearts are prone to diseases common to shady plants, such as fungal infections like soggy soil that leads to root rot, powdery mildew, and leaf spot. In most cases, you can treat the plant with a fungicide by following the instructions on the packaging. If the plant has turned black and foul-smelling, it's rotting and can infect other nearby plants. It's best to pull up the plant. If the plant is in a container, sterilize the entire container and throw out the soil. If the rot occurred in your yard or garden, treat the planting spot with a fungicide. To prevent future fungus issues, irrigate your plant's soil (not the plant itself). Excessive moisture on the plant's foliage in shady spots may encourage fungal growth. How to Get Bleeding Hearts to Bloom Bleeding hearts are usually spring-blooming plants and will continue to flower into the summer until it gets too hot for them. Hot temps trigger the plant to die off and enter dormancy. If you don't notice any flowering, note that this plant takes some time to establish and may not flower in its first growing season. If it's not flowering, the plant may still be too young or need to be divided. To trigger the plant to bloom again in the season, you can stimulate new growth by cutting the plant down to one inch of the ground surface. It may get the plant growing again. You can give the plant fertilizer every six weeks. This plant enjoys rich, moist soil but not too wet that it's boggy. Ensure the plant stays out of the direct sunlight; the flowers do not tolerate the sun much. Common Problems With Bleeding Hearts Bleeding hearts grow well in shady spots. However, shade-loving plants are often prone to problems with excessive moisture and fungal disease. Most of the issues your plant will experience are likely due to watering, insect activity, or fungus. Powdery Patches on Its Foliage Spots of black, gray, white, or pink powder on its leaves indicate powdery mildew, a treatable disease when treated immediately. Its growth gets stunted and looks gnarled, curled, and unsightly. A fungicide will remove the problem. To prevent this from occurring, make sure plants are watered on the soil (not on the foliage) and make sure the plants have plenty of aeration and are not too crowded.
Brown or Black Spots on the Leaves If the bleeding heart plant develops small brown or black spots on the leaves that grow larger with a yellow ring or halo with the center of the ring beginning to rot out, then the plant likely has fungal leaf spot. Treatment with a fungicide or baking soda solution may neutralize the fungus if caught early enough. As the disease progresses, the leaves drop and the plant will die. Yellowing Leaves Bleeding hearts naturally turns yellow and dies as the temperature turns hot. If that is the case, there is no reason to do anything. The plant is entering dormancy, which is its normal growth cycle. However, yellowing can also occur if the plant is getting too much water, the soil is too alkaline, or if the plant is getting too much sun. Adjust those conditions. Also, check the plant to see if it has an infestation of aphids. Aphids suck the sap out of plants, depriving the plants of their nutrients, leading to leaf drop and can cause plant death. Yellowing can also be a sign of a fungal disease emerging. Verticillium or fusarium are severe fungal infections that start with yellowing. If your plant has this disease, it is not salvageable and should be destroyed before it spreads to other plants. Browning, Blackening, or Rapid Wilting of the Plant Diseases like verticillium wilt, fusarium wilt, botrytis, and root rot will cause a plant to fail quickly. Initial signs will be wilting, leading to all over-browning or the plant beginning to rot. In the case of botrytis, it will appear like a gray mold is overtaking the plant. In most cases, if your plant is infected with these fungal issues and has begun browning or blackening, the plant is too far gone. You can attempt to resurrect it with a fungicide, but it's not going to work in most of these cases. Remove all of the soil, discard it, and sterilize the container before using the pot again. Burn or seal the plant in a plastic bag before discarding it.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年10月27日
Miss Chen
Gaillardia, also known as blanket flower, is an easy-to-grow, short-lived perennial with richly colored, daisy-like flowers. The plant forms a slowly spreading mound and the common name may be a reference to how they can slowly spread and "blanket" an area. The plants grow to about 24 inches in height with about a 20-inch spread. Blanket flowers are fast-growers and will bloom in their first year. This garden favorite puts out large showy blossoms in shades of reds and yellows throughout the warm season months. These short-lived perennials are usually planted from nursery starts, but they also grow easily from seeds planted directly in the garden after the last frost date (or started indoors about 4 to 6 weeks early). Take note that blanket flower is slightly toxic to humans.1 FEATURED VIDEO 7 Tips for Every Gardener Common Names Gallardia, blanket flower Botanical Name Gaillardia x Grandiflora Family Asteraceae Plant Type Herbaceous perennial Mature Size 12 to 18 in. tall; 12- to 24-in. spread Sun Exposure Full sun Soil Type Any well-draining soil (avoid clay soil) Soil pH 6.1 to 6.5 (slightly acidic) Bloom Time Repeat bloomer, summer through fall Flower Color Various shades of red, yellow, orange, or peach Hardiness Zones 3-10 (USDA); varies by variety Native Area Cultivated hybrid; parents are native North American wildflowers Toxicity Slightly toxic to humans Blanket Flower Care Gaillardia X Grandiflora is fully hardy in USDA Zones 4 to 8. Due to extensive hybridizing you will likely be able to find a variety to fit your zone and climate conditions. The flower can reseed and easily sprawl through your garden. Since the original plants are hybrids, expect some variation from self-seeding. Gaillardias are such long bloomers that they work equally well in borders and containers. Blanket flowers do well with other heat-loving plants that thrive in full sun. The bold, daisy-like flowers blend especially well with soft textures, like thread-leaf Coreopsis and cosmos, as well as airy ornamental grasses. For more contrast, plant them with spiky plants like Kniphofia, Crocosmia, or daylilies. 'Burgundy' contrasts well with blue flowers, like Salvia and veronica. All the Gaillardia varieties make excellent cut flowers. Light These plants thrive best in full sun. The blanket flower can handle some partial shade, particularly in hot climates, but they will get a bit floppy and will not flower as profusely. Soil Gaillardia is not particular about soil pH, but it does need well-draining soil. It will grow in somewhat moist conditions, but heavy clay soil will probably kill it. Water Immediately after planting, water frequently (every other day or so) until you see the flowers. Once established, Gaillardia is extremely drought tolerant. It can go without watering unless there are extremely hot and dry conditions, then it's best to water the bed once or twice per week. Avoid overwatering. Temperature and Humidity Blanket flowers thrive in full sun and can withstand hot summer temperatures. They do not require a humid environment and do better in hot, dry climates over cool, moist ones. In cooler climates, protect your overwintering blanket flowers with a thick layer of mulch. Fertilizer Poor soils seem to encourage more flowering than rich soils, so go easy on (or avoid) the fertilizer. Types of Blanket Flower There are over two dozen species in the Gaillardia genus and most are native to some areas of North America. Gaillardia pulchella, which is native from the southeastern U.S. through to Colorado and south into Mexico, was cross-bred with Gaillardia aristata, a prairie flower, to create Gaillardia X Grandiflora, which is the most common garden form. Here are other popular types: Gaillardia 'Arizona Sun': A 2005 All-America Selections Winner, these 3- to 4- inch flowers have a red center surrounded by yellow. G. 'Burgundy': These flowers feature wine-red petals with a yellow center disk that ages to burgundy. G. 'Fanfare': This variety produces trumpet-shaped flowers that shade from soft red through yellow radiate from a rosy center disk. G. 'Goblin': This is a very hardy variety with large green leaves that are veined in maroon. G. 'Mesa Yellow': The 2010 All-America Selections Winner is known for its striking yellow flowers. Pruning Blanket flower does not require deadheading to keep blooming, but the plants will look better and be fuller if you do cut the stems back when the flowers start to fade. You will also get more continuous flowering with deadheading, so don't be shy about it. Deadheading isn't mandatory, but it may stimulate additional blooms. If the plant languishes in the heat of summer, cutting it back dramatically may reinvigorate it for good fall blooming. Propagating Blanket Flowers There are seeds for many Gaillardia x Grandiflora varieties. You can sow them in the spring, but they may not flower the first year. Get a head start by sowing in late summer and protecting the young plants over the winter. Since the plants can be short-lived and they don't grow true from seed, it is best to divide the plants every two to three years in the spring to try to keep them going. Follow these steps to divide blanket flowers: Use a spade to dig a circle about 6 inches to 8 inches around the mound of blanket flowers that need dividing. Dig down about a foot to release the root ball. Lift the root ball from the soil using the spade. Shake the root ball slightly to remove some of the dirt to expose the roots. Gently tease roots apart with your fingers and divide into two or three clumps. Each clump should include a few shoots of foliage. Replant divisions in a prepared area that will allow the roots to spread. Once roots are covered with soil, water thoroughly to moisten the roots. Keep the soil moist, but not soggy, until you see the plant is no longer stressed, and then cut back on watering as you would with established blanket flowers. Common Pests & Plant Diseases Blanket flower plants are usually problem-free, but they are susceptible to aster yellows, a virus-like disease that can stunt their growth and cause the flowers to be green.2 Plants that do contract aster yellows should be destroyed. They will not recover and the disease can continue to spread. ​ Aster yellows are spread by leaf-hoppers and aphids, so the best thing to do is to encourage predators, like ladybugs.3 Hopefully, you will have enough natural predators around to keep them in check. Otherwise, spray with insecticidal soap which helps ward off the pests.
0
0
文章
4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19
相关用户
筒叶花月
筒叶花月
来自： 斑目
玉露
玉露
来自： 安静的种花人
玉露
玉露
来自： 石头剪子布
天津
玉露
玉露
来自： 绿野鱼悅
温州市
筒叶花月
筒叶花月
来自： Heidi Liu
玉露
玉露
来自： 一万吨少女心
筒叶花月
筒叶花月
来自： KiddaHoo
郑州
保利安娜
保利安娜
来自： 辣木姐--璐颖
玉露
玉露
来自： 倾心
福州
玉露
玉露
来自： 小欢喜
广州
举报 反馈

您有什么意见或建议，欢迎给我们留言。

请输入内容
提交
取消
设置
VIP
退出登录
关闭
分享

分享好文，绿手指（GFinger）养花助手见证你的成长。

关闭
请前往电脑端操作

请前往电脑端操作

关闭
转发
插入话题
提醒好友
发布
/
提交成功 提交失败 最大图片质量 成功 警告 啊哦！ 出了点小问题 转发成功 举报 转发 显示更多 _zh 文章 求助 动态 刚刚 回复 邀你一起尬聊！ 表情 添加图片 评论 仅支持 .JPG .JPEG .PNG .GIF 图片尺寸不得小于300*300px 最少上传一张图片 请输入内容