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Miss Chen
2017年08月26日
Miss Chen
Cada clima tiene su vegetación más apropiada. [图片]Selecciona especies vegetales que vivan bien en el clima general de tu zona. Considera también los microclimas del jardín. Por ejemplo, un rincón con sombra es perfecto para helechos pero inadecuado para las plantas de flor de temporada. Los factores climático-ambientales en relación a la elección de las plantas son: luz, temperaturas, lluvia, humedad y vientos.  1. Luz  Analiza las zonas de sol y las zonas de sombra del jardín. Para las zonas de sol: - Casi todas las flores necesitan unas seis horas de sol al día. Por ejemplo, Gazania o Lamprantus sólo abren sus flores si tienen sol directo. - Las plantas con hojas variegadas (veteados en verde y amarillo) requieren más luz que las de hojas verdes completas. - A los cactus les gusta tener mucha luz. Para las zonas de sombra: - Elige especies que vivan bien en sombra o semisombra, por ejemplo, Camelia, Hortensia, Clemátide, Helechos, Cóleo... hay muchas especies aptas sombra; mira esta lista de arbustos. - Puedes ubicar en sombra plantas que necesiten sombra en determinadas épocas, por ejemplo, una sombra temporal en momentos calurosos favorece su establecimiento, o cuando son plantas jóvenes y delicadas. 2. Temperaturas    Si en tu clima hace frío, con heladas frecuentes, es evidente que no se deben escoger especies subtropicales: morirían a las primeras de cambio. Cerca de un muro estarán más protegidas del frío. Los muros acumulan calor durante el día que ceden por la noche. Ciertas plantas también necesitan frío. Por ejemplo, el Olivo crece mucho en el trópico pero no florece, lo que quiere es la alternancia de temperaturas, no constante todo el año. O muchas variedades de frutales que necesitan acumular frío en invierno, lo que se llaman horas-frío, horas por debajo de +7ºC. Por ejemplo, variedades de cerezo que si no disponen de este frío no darán buena cosecha (Más información sobre esto en Sección Frutales, artículo "Elegir frutales según el clima").   3. Lluvia   Hay plantas que no aguantan los climas lluviosos por estar los suelos muy húmedos o encharcados o por tener las hojas mojadas mucho tiempo. Suelen ser especies de climas secos. En climas lluviosos conviene elegir especies amantes de la humedad.  4. Humedad del aire Hay plantas que necesitan una humedad alta y otras sequedad. Ejemplo: los helechos son ideales para un jardín a la sombra o un jardín que dé al norte. Necesitan agua y un alto grado de humedad del aire. Plantarlos sólo si se les puede dar lo que piden. Hay regiones con niebla frecuente, rocío o determinados rincones húmedos. [图片]5. Vientos Vientos secos Vientos húmedos Vientos fríos Vientos cálidos Vientos fuertes (encallejonados es peor) Vientos salinos de la costa ("queman" las hojas jóvenes y yemas jóvenes orientadas al mar por depósitos de sales).  Si en tu zona predominan algunos de estos vientos, escoge plantas resistentes a ellos, o bien,proporciona protección del viento al jardín o terraza con setos, vallas con trepadoras, láminas de brezo, etc. El viento influye en la distribución de las plantas. Por ejemplo, coloca las Coníferas pensando por dónde entran los vientos dominantes. Así servirá de protección gracias a su follaje perenne.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月25日
Miss Chen
[图片]Si ya tienes el diseño del jardín, con sus zonas, elementos y plantas a incluir, te queda llevarlo a la realidad, es decir, construirlo. Vamos a ver los pasos a seguir. Lo habitual es contratar los servicios de una empresa de jardinería para que se encargue de todo, aunque también lo puedes hacer como particular si la obra no es de mucha envergadura.  Una vía intermedia es pagar a una empresa para que haga sólo ciertos trabajos (tierra vegetal, instalación del riego, plantación de grandes árboles y palmeras, etc.).  1. Limpieza del terreno   Lo primero es retirar escombros, basuras y restos extraños que hubiera en la parcela. Se eliminan también hierbas y rastrojos con una desbrozadora de discos o con azada si la parcela es pequeña.  Se paga una cuba y en ella se van depositando todos estos residuos. Cuando la cuba está llena, la retiran. El terreno ya está limpio.   2. Movimientos de tierras Es muy probable que sea necesario aportar tierra vegetal. Motivos: a) Hay que rellenar ciertas zonas o recrecer toda la parcela. b) La calidad del suelo original no es buena, por ej., si es pura arcilla o si es poco profundo (piedra debajo, hormigón, capa compacta, etc.).  La tierra vegetal se compra por metros cúbicos (m3), en camiones. La cantidad a comprar se calcula con esta sencilla multiplicación:  Volumen de tierra en m3 = largo de la parcela x el ancho de la parcela x el espesor de tierra a aportar  Ejemplo: para aportar una capa de 15 cm (0,1 m) de tierra en una parcela de 25x12 m, serían necesarios 43 m3 de tierra:  Volumen de tierra = 25 m x 12 m x 0,15 m = 45 m3 de tierra. La capa a extender suele oscilar entre 10 y 20 centímetros de espesor. Cuanto más, mejor. Se puede aprovechar la tierra del vaciado de cimentaciones y soleras de fuentes, estanques, muros de contención, etc. para rellenar. Recuerda que la tierra buena es la de los primeros 30 cm, muchos más rica en materia orgánica y nutrientes minerales que la del subsuelo. Nunca mezcles la tierra buena de arriba con la del subsuelo. La tierra vegetal la trae y descarga el camión dentro o lo más cerca posible de la parcela. Luego hay que extenderla. Opciones para extenderla:  1. Pala mecánica pequeña: siempre que se pueda es lo mejor. Sin lugar a dudas. Se contratan por horas, con el maquinista incluido, obviamente, y en unas horas está la tierra extendida y nivelada. 2. Con carretillas a mano: vale si son pocos metros cúbicos o cuando no haya más remedio porque no pueda entrar una pala mecánica. Todo lo que se pueda mecanizar, merece la pena. Finalmente, con la tierra repartida, se dan las pendientes oportunas al terreno, procurando que el agua de lluvia y riego corra hacia donde tenga una salida natural. Se recomienda reservar un depósito de tierra vegetal buena para rellenar los hoyos y zanjas de plantación. 3. Obras de albañilería y equipamientos  Con el terreno limpio y moldeado en sus relieves, se acometen las obras de albañilería y la instalación de los equipamientos del jardín. A veces todo esto se hace antes de echar la tierra vegetal, depende del caso, pero, por ejemplo, difícilmente se puede hacer un camino que atraviesa una depresión del terreno antes de rellenar dicha depresión con tierra. En este capítulo entrarían: - Muros  - Caminos  - Pavimentos: loza, piedra, ladrillo, hormigón, chinos... - Escaleras y rampas - Piscinas - Estanques de obra - Curso de agua  - Cascadas - Bordillos  - Vallas - Fuentes  - Instalaciones deportivas: pista de tenis, canasta de baloncesto, minigolf, diana, etc.  - Juegos infantiles: columpios, toboganes, cabaña indio, foso de arena, etc. - Cenadores y pabellones - Cobertizo, lugar de almacén o trabajo, compostera - Pérgolas  - Arcos - Rocallas (colocación de las rocas), etc. [图片]En suma, todo lo que es obra o instalaciones de diversa naturaleza. Es muy importante tener la precaución de dejar tubos debajo de los caminos para que puedan pasar por ellos las tuberías de riego y de electricidad. Si el jardín no tiene salidas naturales para el agua de lluvia, es preciso evacuarla. Para ello se emplean soluciones como: - Conducciones de PVC enterradas como mínimo a 40 cm y con una cierta pendiente que vierten a la red de alcantarillado. - Otro sistema es por medio de unas canaletas prefabricadas de plástico (fotos superiores) u hormigón, con rejilla, que rodeen la parcela y ciertos sitios estanciales. Estas canaletas están colocadas con una pequeña pendiente y vierten el agua a la red de alcantarillado o a la calle.  4. Alumbrado La iluminación del jardín se hace con farolas, balizas, proyectores o focos. Los cables van dentro de tubos de plástico corrugados enterrados a una profundidad mínima de 40 cm. Se debe colocar una cinta plástica de color amarillo a 25 cm del nivel del tubo como medida de seguridad. 5. Drenaje Generalmente no es necesaria la instalación de tubos de drenaje, pero hay suelos muy arcillosos, compactos y con baja capacidad de infiltración ("chupan" poco) que dan lugar a charcos que duran varios días. En estas situaciones se pudre las plantas y el césped, por lo que es obligatorio meter tubos de drenaje. Otras veces, la orografía natural del terreno provoca charcos en ciertas zonas. Si no se pueden corregir estas depresiones con los rellenos de tierras, también requerirá drenaje con tuberías. Para más información sobre drenaje y cómo instalar tubos, consulta el artículo "Drenaje de suelos".  6. Riego  Aspersores para el césped. Difusores para el césped y zonas estrechas (tienen un alcance de hasta 5 metros). Riego por goteo en árboles en alcorques o que estén fuera de zonas con césped, para arbustos, parterres de vivaces, huerto, frutales... La manguera es el sistema de riego más lento. No obstante, es necesario que haya bocas de riego bien distribuidas por el jardín para poder "enchufar" mangueras. Mi consejo es que instales un sistema de riego automático. Nada de mangueras, ni estar abriendo y cerrando llaves. El riego automático lo programas y él solo abre y cierra el riego los días de la semana que tú le indiques y a la hora que prefieras. Cada zona estará controlada por un programa distinto, según las necesidades hídricas del césped, árboles y palmeras, arbustos, plantas de flor, huerto y frutales. Los pasos para diseñar e instalar un sistema de riego automático están descritos en esta página. 7. Preparación del terreno  Una vez concluidos los movimientos de tierras, la albañilería, los equipamientos y con el riego instalado, se procede a la preparación del terreno para la plantación y a la siembra del césped(si es que lleva). Se vuelven a limpiar los restos de materiales de obra, escombros, maleza, piedras grandes, etc. Se labra el suelo a unos 25 cm de profundidad. Esta labor se realiza con motocultor mecánico o con azada, con ésta siempre que sea una superficie pequeña. El terreno debe estar ligeramente húmedo para ser labrado, ni muy mojado, ni muy seco. Se reparte por toda la superficie donde irá el césped una capa de estiércol, mantillo o turba, a razón de 600-800 kilos por cada 100 metros cuadrados de parcela. También se recomienda donde vaya el césped, además del abono orgánico anterior, aportar fertilizantes minerales ("bolitas"), unos 6,5 Kg por cada 100 metros cuadrados de abono complejo 15-15-15, por ejemplo. Mucha gente siembra directamente el césped sin aportar antes ni materia orgánica ni fertilizantes minerales, pero lo ideal sería hacer ambas operaciones de abonado, al menos, una de ellas. Igual ocurre con la arena, que a veces es conveniente aportarla para mejorar el drenaje de suelos arcillosos y no se hace. Se da un pase con motocultor para enterrar el abono orgánico y/o mineral y se procede a las plantaciones y siembras. 8. Plantaciones y siembras  Se marca en el suelo con estacas de madera o similar dónde va cada planta. Las dimensiones aproximadas de los hoyos, expresadas en cm. serían las siguientes: - Arboles y palmeras grandes................................100 x 100 x 100 - Arboles jóvenes y plantas tropicales grandes.......60 x 60 x 60 - Arbustos y trepadoras...........................................40 x 40 x 40 - Zanja de setos.......................................................40 x 40 Los macizos se pueden trazar ayudándose de una manguera y luego, espolvoreando con cal o yeso por encima de la manguera para que quede la curva dibujada. La plantación se comienza por las plantas de mayor porte. La tierra extraída donde va cada árbol, palmera, arbusto, rosal y trepadoras se mezcla con abono orgánico (estiércol, mantillo, compost, humus de lombriz, turba, etc.). En las zanjas para setos y borduras se echan 3 kilos por metro lineal de estiércol, y las superficies donde se asentarán plantas vivaces, bulbosas, aromáticas, y anuales, se abonan con 8 kg./m2 de estiércol. El fertilizante mineral es opcional, con el orgánico es suficiente en el momento de la plantación. A las plantas se les retira el contenedor, bien sea maceta o bolsa, teniendo cuidado de no estropear el cepellón. Si vienen 'a raíz desnuda' cuidado en no deteriorar el sistema radicular. Los hoyos se rellenan con la tierra abonada hasta el nivel del cuello; se entutoran árboles y palmeras y se da un primer riego abundante.  Es muy importante no descuidar el riego los primeros meses tras la plantación, ya que aún no han desarrollado raíces y son muy sensibles a la falta de agua. Siembra de césped Un césped se puede hacer sembrando semillas o poniendo tepes (planchas). Si la superficie de césped es pequeña, el tema de los tepes puede ser interesante,dependerá principalmente de las prisas que se tengan. Ahora bien, un jardín mediano o grande, ya hay que estudiar detenidamente si merece la pena, puesto que los tepes salen mucho más caros. Se puede sembrar semilla, esperar un mes y medio y se tiene un buen césped por mucho menos dinero. Nivela el suelo con el rastrillo y quita las piedras, plásticos, palos y residuos. Si hay terrones, da un pase de rulo para romperlos (la función de rulo la puede hacer una bombona de butano). Las mejores épocas para sembrar son primavera y otoño, pero también se puede en verano y, en climas cálidos, incluso en invierno. En mezclas de semillas la dosis normal es de unos 35-40 gramos de mezcla de semillas por cada metro cuadrado (leer el envase). Rastrilla superficialmente para enterrar las semillas. Moviendo el rastrillo de delante hacia atrás y avanzando. Con que queden ligeramente tapadas por la tierra es suficiente. En algunos libros recomiendan tapar las semillas con un "cubresiembras". Esto es mantillo o turba, solo o mezclado con arena; pero es opcional. Da un pase de rulo para poner en contacto la tierra con las semillas. Es muy beneficioso para favorecer la germinación de las semillas. El problema es que no merece la pena comprar un rulo para sembrar un único césped. Si alguien te lo presta o puedes alquilarlo, hazlo. Si no, usa una bombona de butano. Una vez sembrado, debe regarse 2 ó 3 veces por día al principio para que la cama de siembra esté húmeda de 2 a 4 centímetros de profundidad. 9. Colocación de elementos decorativos  El toque final al jardín se lo dan los ornamentos y la inclusión de otros elementos no vegetales: Recubriendo las superficies de tierra vacías entre plantas con cantos rodados, bolos de mármol, rocas trituradas, gravas, cortezas pino, tierra volcánica, etc. Mobiliario de jardín, incluida hamacas, sombrillas y toldos. Reloj de sol Bebederos y comederos para pájaros. Ruedas de molino o de carro. Macetas, jardineras, jarrones, tinajas, ánforas y otros recipientes. Trozos de capiteles, columnas y otras antigüedades. Etc.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Dummer. ゛☀
Pennyroyal plant is a perennial herb that was once widely used but is not as common today. It has applications as an herbal remedy, culinary uses and as a decorative touch. Growing pennyroyal in the herb or perennial garden will add color with its reddish purple to lilac blooms. There are two plants called pennyroyal. One is the European pennyroyal (Mentha pulegium), which is a member of the mint family. The other is the American pennyroyal from an unrelated genus, Hedeoma pulegoides.[图片]American Pennyroyal Plant Either variety of pennyroyal has a fresh, minty scent but American pennyroyal is not in the mint family. They are both low growing plants with slightly hairy stems but the American has a square stem. It is many branched and creeps along at only 6 inches to 1 foot in height. The leaves are tiny and slim and the plant is rather unremarkable until bloom time in July. Until September the plant produces pale blue flower clusters that are dried and distilled for the oils. [图片]European Pennyroyal Plant True to its family nature, European pennyroyal has a spreading habit. The plants 1-foot tall stems root wherever they touch the ground and start new plants. Care should be exercised when you grow pennyroyal plant and it may be best to plant in pots to minimize the invasiveness of the plant. European pennyroyal can be grown in full sun to partial shade in USDA zones 5 to 9. You can tell the difference between the two types of pennyroyal by the number of stamens. European has four but American flowers only have two.[图片]How to Grow Pennyroyal Herb Pennyroyal can be propagated from seed, cuttings or spring division. The seed needs light to germinate but grows quickly once it sprouts. Plant them in prepared seed beds outside after all danger of frost. Sow the seed on the surface of the soil and mist the bed to moisten it. Keep it moist and germination should occur in two weeks. Divide established plants every three years in early spring for the best form and production. Pennyroyal is an easy to grow herb. European pennyroyal makes a wonderful trailing plant when grown in a hanging basket or at the edges of mixed color containers. American pennyroyal can be grown indoors in troughs or outside in the kitchen garden. Pinch the terminal ends of the herb to stimulate bushiness and a more compact growing shape. Grow pennyroyal as a ground cover in sunny areas with junky soil. The plant will persist even in unfavorable conditions and can be helpful in vegetation-free zones as an erosion control.[图片]Cautions About Pennyroyal Pennyroyal has been to relieve pain, gastrointestinal discomfort, soothe colds and to aid in menstruation problems. The plant has also been used to induce abortion, so it should never be handled or ingested by a pregnant woman.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Dummer. ゛☀
Most of us have heard or know of stinging nettle. It is common in yards and can become quite the nuisance. But for those unsure of what is stinging nettle or how to get rid of it, information about stinging nettle and its control is especially important.[图片]What is Stinging Nettle? Stinging nettle is a member of the large family Urticaceae and is a decidedly unpleasant herbaceous perennial. As the name implies, stinging nettle has the capacity to irritate and blister when it comes into contact with skin. The most common variety (Urtica dioica procera) is native to North America, being prolific in California and other areas of the western United States, and is referred to by a number of common names for its two most widespread subspecies. Stinging nettle thrives in damp, nutrient rich soils and can be found anywhere from pastures, orchards, overgrown yards, roadsides, stream banks, ditches and even at the edges of fields or wooded lots in partial shade. Stinging nettle is less likely to be found in the desert, elevations over 9,800 feet and in areas of salinity.[图片]Information About Stinging Nettle Controlling stinging nettle is a virtuous pursuit resultant due to its painful effect on human skin. The leaves and stems of stinging nettles are finely covered with thin bristles that lodge in the offended skin, leaving red patches that itch and burn — sometimes for up to 12 hours. These hairs have an internal structure much like a tiny hypodermic needle which plunges neurotransmitter chemicals, such as acetylcholine and histamine, under the skin, causing the reaction known as ‘irritant dermatitis.’ More information on stinging nettle includes that of its physical form wherein a full sized plant may be 3-10 feet tall (on occasion up to 20 feet tall) with an angular stem branching outwards from the base. Both the stem and leaf surface have non-stinging and stinging hairs. This perennial weed blooms from March to September with insignificant whitish green flowers at the base of the leaf stalks and fruit that is tiny and egg shaped.[图片]How to Kill Stinging Nettle Plants Controlling stinging nettle can be a lesson in futility, as the plant is not only a voracious grower, but also springs from underground rhizomes and is easily propagated via wind-dispersed seeds. Tilling or cultivating an area that is heavily populated may spread the rhizomes, increasing the colony instead of getting rid of stinging nettle. Again, stinging nettle control is difficult, as these underground horizontal root stems can spread 5 feet or more in a season, continually re-growing from the rhizomes, even when broken apart. So, you may wonder how to kill stinging nettle plants then? Stinging nettle may be removed by hand, taking care to protect skin with gloves and other appropriate attire. Be sure to remove the underground rhizomes completely or the weed will continue to come back. Close mowing or “weed whacking” can retard growth as well. Otherwise, when controlling stinging nettle it may be necessary to resort to chemical herbicides such as isoxaben, oxadiazon, and oxyfluorfen, which are only available to licensed pesticide applicators.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Dummer. ゛☀
Weeds are really just plants that have evolved to self-propagate rapidly. To most people they are a nuisance but to some, who recognize they are just plants, a boon. Stinging nettle (Urtica dioica) is one such weed with a variety of beneficial uses from a food source to a medicinal treatment to nettle garden fertilizer. The nutrients in stinging nettle fertilizer are those same nutrients the plant contains which are beneficial to the human body such as many minerals, flavinoids, essential amino acids, proteins and vitamins. A nettle leaf plant food will have: Chlorophyll Nitrogen Iron Potassium Copper Zinc Magnesium Calcium These nutrients, along with Vitamins A, B1, B5, C, D, E, and K, combine together to create a tonic and immune builder for both the garden and the body.[图片]How to Make Stinging Nettle Manure (Fertilizer) Nettle garden fertilizer is also referred to as stinging nettle manure, both because of its use as a food source for plants and also possibly in reference to its smell as it brews. There is a quick method for making nettle fertilizer and a long range method. Either method requires nettles, obviously which can either be picked in the spring or purchased at a health food store. Be sure to wear protective clothing and gloves if picking your own nettles and avoid picking near a road or other area where they may have been sprayed with chemicals. Quick method: For the quick method, steep 1 ounce of nettles in 1 cup of boiling water for 20 minutes to an hour, then strain the leaves and stems out and toss in the compost bin. Dilute the fertilizer 1:10 and it’s ready for use. This quick method will give a subtler result than the following method. Long range method: You can also make nettle garden fertilizer by filling a large jar or bucket with the leaves and stems, bruising the foliage first. Weight down the nettles with a brick, paving stone, or whatever you have laying around and then cover with water. Only fill three-quarters of the bucket with water to allow room for the foam that will be created during the brewing process. Use non-chlorinated water, possibly from a rain barrel, and set the bucket in a semi-sunny area, preferably away from the house since the process will likely be a tad smelly. Leave the mix for one to three weeks to ferment, stirring every couple of days until it stops bubbling.[图片]Using Nettles as Fertilizer Finally, strain out the nettles and dilute the concoction at one part fertilizer to 10 parts water for watering plants or 1:20 for direct foliar application. Undiluted mix makes an excellent organic herbicide and can be added to the compost bin to stimulate decomposition. When using nettles as fertilizer, remember that some plants, like tomatoes and roses, do not enjoy the high iron levels in nettle fertilizer.[图片]This fertilizer works best on leafy plants and heavy feeders. Start with low concentrations and move on from there. Use some caution when using nettles as fertilizer since the mixture will undoubtedly still contain prickles, which can be quite painful. This free, albeit somewhat stinky food is easy to make and can continue to be topped off through the year by adding more leaves and water. At the end of the growing season, simply add the nettle dregs to the compost bin and put the whole process to bed until spring nettle picking time.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Dummer. ゛☀
Stinging nettle greens have been used for centuries to treat joint pain, eczema, arthritis, gout, and anemia. For many people, a bracing cup of nettle tea is still a panacea for a wealth of health issues. It’s no wonder since stinging nettle greens are loaded with antioxidants as well as lutein, lycopene and iron. The health benefits aside, stinging nettles are also delicious. How to grow stinging nettle greens in the garden then? Read on to learn more.[图片]How to Grow Stinging Nettle Greens Stinging nettle (Urtica dioica) are one of more than 50 varieties of nettle plants worldwide. A distant mint relative, stinging nettles are equally invasive and need to be sternly managed. Stinging nettles are an herbaceous, fast growing plant with leaves as well as stems, which are covered with tiny, hollow silica tipped hairs and can grow to about 4 feet tall. They developed the stinging hairs to discourage animal from feeding on them. If you aren’t interested in growing stinging nettles to ingest, you might still want to grow them to deter deer from nibbling on your other plants or to use as fertilizer. Start seeds inside about four to six weeks prior to the last frost free date for your area. Plant one to three seeds in peat pots filled with potting soil. Lightly cover them with ¼ inch of soil. Keep the growing stinging nettle seeds moist. Germination should occur by about 14 days. You may also direct sow nettle greens in the garden. Choose a spot that has rich, moist soil a little ways from any other herbs. Seed in the spring in rows that are an inch apart and keep the area moist. If you started your nettle inside, transplant the growing nettle greens into a prepared garden bed, spaced at least 12 inches apart.[图片]Harvesting Nettle Greens Your nettles will be ready to harvest between 80-90 days from seed. The best time to harvest nettles is the first few weeks of spring when the leaves are young and tender. The plant will be under a foot in height. Pick the first two or three pairs of leaves from the top of the plants. You can continue to harvest through the summer, but the stalks and stems will be very fibrous, so just take the top few pairs of leaves. Be sure to wear gloves and lots of clothing. In fact, dress as if you are going into battle before harvesting nettle greens. Otherwise, the tiny hairs will embed themselves into your skin, making life pretty uncomfortable. Those tiny hairs contain several chemicals that cause a burning, stinging feeling that can last for hours.[图片]Use sharp scissors or garden shears outside and handle the nettles with tongs in the kitchen. Cooking the nettles will obliterate those pesky hairs.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Dummer. ゛☀
The benefits of nettle root are unsubstantiated but may be useful in relieving symptoms associated with enlarged prostate. The above ground portions of the plant are also a tasty forage food. Harvesting nettle root requires finesses and caution, as the stems and leaves are covered with fine hairs that deliver a histamine jab, resulting in a painful rash and sometimes blisters. The effects decline over a short period but can be excruciating at first contact. Some tips and tricks on how to harvest stinging nettle roots without getting bitten by the stingers can help keep you safe as you collect this potentially troublesome, yet beneficial, plant.[图片]Uses for Stinging Nettle Root If you have ever been hiking in North America near streams, lakes and other areas with rich soil, you might have encountered stinging nettle and it isn’t a meeting you are likely to forget. However, this plant is one of the most tasty forage plants available, in spite of its sting. Young shoots and leaves are delicious edibles, and tea from the dried foliage is a traditional medicinal as well as plant fertilizer. There are also many uses for stinging nettle root that rely upon historical health knowledge. But first, you need to get a hold of the root without causing yourself considerable distress. Nettle root is available at many natural food and holistic medicine stores. It comes as a tincture, capsule, tablet or even a tea. You can easily make your own tea by drying the leaves and steeping them in water to harness the flavor and healthful benefits. The root is said to assist sufferers of enlarged prostate by reducing the urge to urinate. In addition to this use, stinging nettle may also assist with muscle and joint pain abatement and to help with urinary tract infection symptoms. Modern medicine is studying the plant’s use as an arthritis treatment to reduce inflammation, but the primary parts utilized are the leaves. Native Americans also used root decoctions for dysentery, to reduce bleeding, and to relieve asthma, bronchitis and other respiratory ailments. It was also applied externally to soothe hemorrhoids and other swollen skin tissues.[图片]How to Harvest Stinging Nettle Roots If you are trying to harness the benefits of stinging nettle root, you are going to have to dig a bit. In most cases, gloves are a good idea, as some contact with the leaves is likely to occur. Casual contact with any above ground part of the plant can cause a dermatological incident that is painful and persistent. Be cautious when harvesting nettle root, as the process will kill this valuable plant. Make sure there are plenty of other specimens nearby and you are not reducing the population significantly. You can remove the leaves before digging up the roots, save them and use them in a stir fry or dry them for tea. Stems are bitter and fibrous unless the shoots are very young. Dig outside the foliage area and under the plant at least a foot to get the roots without damaging them. Once you have your roots, thoroughly clean them in fresh water. Change the water several times and use a vegetable brush to help remove all the grime. Chop the roots into small pieces. The smaller the size, the better you can harness all the juices and benefits from the roots.[图片]To make medicine, place the roots in a Mason jar and cover with pure grain alcohol at a rate of 1 part root to 2 parts alcohol. Cover the container and store it in a cool, dark location. Shake the jar daily. In approximately 8 weeks, the medicine of the roots will have leached out into the alcohol. Alternatively, you can blanch and mash the roots before storing in the alcohol, but some of the benefits will be lost in the process. Drying the root pieces and making them into tea is another method of harnessing the healing powers of stinging nettle. As with any medicine, consult with a professional healer to determine amounts to ingest and the perfect ratio.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Dummer. ゛☀
What is mushroom herb and exactly what can I do with it? Mushroom herb (Rungia klossii) is a leafy green plant with a distinctive mushroom-like flavor, hence the name. Cooks love to incorporate mushroom herb plants into pasta sauces, soups, sandwiches or any food that benefits from its mild, mushroom like flavor. Has this piqued your interest about mushroom herb plant? Read on to learn more.[图片]Mushroom Herb Info An attractive plant with shiny, deep green leaves and blue-violet flowers in springtime, mushroom herb plants usually top out at about 24 inches (60 cm.) at maturity. However, regular pinching and frequent harvesting prevents legginess and keeps the plant bushy and compact.[图片]Mushroom plant thrives in rich soil, so dig 2 or 3 inches (5-7 cm.) of compost into the soil at planting time. Find a location where the plant is in partial shade or light sunlight, as mushroom herb plants tend to be smaller when exposed to a lot of direct sunlight or intense heat. Although this plant is relatively drought tolerant, it grows faster with regular irrigation. Mushroom herb plant hales from tropical climates and won’t tolerate extreme cold. If you live north of USDA planting zone 9, growing mushroom herb plants in the garden won’t be feasible. Instead, plant mushroom herb in a container and bring it indoors when temperatures drop in autumn.[图片]Mushroom Plant Uses Mushroom plant is an amazingly healthy plant, providing nutrients such as calcium, protein, iron, beta-carotene and vitamins A and C. Mushroom herb plants are also rich in chlorophyll, which herbalists appreciate for its blood cleansing properties. Mushroom plant herbs are great for people who choose not to eat fungi for health reasons, or those who enjoy the flavor of mushrooms but not the texture. Cooking actually brings out the distinctive mushroom-like flavor. Add leaves to cooked dishes at the last minute to prevent loss of color and nutrients.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Dummer. ゛☀
At this writing, it is early spring, a time when I can almost hear tender buds unfolding from the still chilly earth and I yearn for spring’s warmth, the smell of freshly mown grass and the dirty, slightly tan and calloused hands I prefer. It is at this time (or similar months when the garden is sleeping) that planting an indoor herb garden is enticing and will not only cheer up those winter doldrums but enliven your recipes as well.[图片]Many herbs do exceptionally well as houseplants and include: Basil Chives Coriander Oregano Parsley Sage Rosemary Thyme Sweet marjoram is another such herb, which when grown outside in cooler climates may die during icy winter, but when grown as an indoor marjoram herb plant will thrive and often live for years in that mild clime. Growing Marjoram Indoors When growing marjoram indoors, there are a couple of considerations that apply to any indoor herb. Access the amount of space you have, the temperature, light source, air and cultural requirements. A sunny location and moderately moist, well-drained soil with a pH of 6.9 are the elementary details of how to grow sweet marjoram indoors. If planting from seed, sow uncovered and germinate at about 65-70 F. (18-21 C.). Seeds are slow to germinate but plants can also be propagated by cuttings or root division.[图片]Care of Marjoram Herbs As previously mentioned, this little member of the Lamiaceae family is usually an annual unless planted indoors or outside in mild climates. To maintain the vigor and shape of the indoor marjoram herb plant, pinch back plants prior to blooming in mid to late summer (July to September). This will also keep the size down to a manageable 12 inches or so and eliminate much of the woodiness of the indoor marjoram herb plant.[图片]Using Marjoram Herbs The tiny, grayish green leaves, flowering top or entirety of indoor marjoram herb plants may be harvested at any time. Sweet marjoram’s flavor is reminiscent of oregano and is at its peak just before blooming in the summer. This also reduces the seed set and encourages herbaceous development. This little Mediterranean herb may be sheared severely down to 1 to 2 inches. There are many ways of using marjoram herbs, including using fresh or dry in marinades, salads and dressings, to flavor vinegars or oils, soups, and compound butters. Indoor marjoram herb plant marries well with an abundance of foods such as fish, green vegetables, carrots, cauliflower, eggs, mushrooms, tomatoes, squash, and potatoes. Sweet marjoram pairs well with bay leaf, garlic, onion, thyme and basil and as a milder version of oregano, can be used in its place as well. When using marjoram herbs, they may be dried or fresh, either method useful in not only cooking but as a wreath or bouquet. To dry indoor marjoram herb plant, hang sprigs to dry and then store in a cool, dry place in an airtight container out of the sun.
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2017年08月25日
Dummer. ゛☀
Marjoram is a wonderful plant to have around, whether it’s in your garden or a pot closer to the kitchen. It’s tasty, it’s attractive, and it’s very popular in salves and balms. But what do you do when you start getting marjoram blossoms? Do marjoram blooms affect harvest? Keep reading to learn about marjoram blossoms and harvesting marjoram herbs.[图片]Harvesting Marjoram Herbs You can start harvesting marjoram herbs when the plant is about 4 inches tall. This should be before the flowers start to form, when the leaves are at their best. Just pick the leaves as needed and use them fresh. You can brew them into tea, extract their oils for salves, or put them into your food just before you finish cooking to impart a pleasant, mild flavor. Can You Use Marjoram Flowers? Marjoram blossoms tend to appear in midsummer as beautiful delicate clusters in pink, white, and purple. Do marjoram flowers affect harvest? Not completely. You can still pick the leaves, though they won’t taste quite as good.[图片]When you have marjoram buds, the best thing to do is to start picking sprigs for drying. Before the buds open, cut some of the stems from the plant (no more than one third of the total leaves) and hang them in a dark airy space. Once they’re dry, pull the leaves from the stems and either crush them or leave them whole to store. Once you have a marjoram plant blooming fully, the flavor of the leaves isn’t going to be as good. It’s still perfectly safe to eat them, though, along with the flowers, which taste like a milder version of the leaves. At this stage both the leaves and the flowers can be brewed into a very relaxing tea.[图片]Of course, leaving a few plants to bloom in the garden will entice pollinators. You can also harvest seeds from the spent blooms for more of this delightful herb.
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