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Miss Chen
2017年08月15日
Miss Chen
The genus Hibiscus contains perennial and tropical species; the hibiscus trees are typically tropical hibiscuses (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis). These plants add an island feel to any landscape or home. The flowers, which come in an artist's palette of colors, reach up to 6 inches in diameter. The tree form is a common offering at nurseries and plant centers, particularly in mid- to late-spring. Caring for these tropical plants isn't always difficult, but they are picky when it comes to certain requirements. [图片]Keep It Hot Tropical hibiscus is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 and 10, although even these warmer climates can cause trouble. Native to tropical areas of Asia, these showy plants can't handle extreme changes in temperature. For much of the U.S., these plants will thrive during the summer but need to come inside if you want to overwinter them. If 90 degrees Fahrenheit or hotter, move your braided hibiscus tree to a partly shaded spot to protect it from the hot afternoon sun. If temperatures are going to fall below 45 degrees F at night, move the plant to a protected area such as a garage or inside. Protective Pots Potted hibiscuses tend to do better than ground-planted hibiscuses, primarily because of their tendency to be picky about moisture, acidity and temperature. Ideally, the pot should have at least four drainage holes. Black plastic pots, common in the nursery industry, can heat up too much. Ceramic or clay, while more expensive, is a better material for your hibiscus. Growers often use a mix of 5 percent perlite, 50 percent peat or coco fiber, and 45 percent composted bark as a growing medium. Repot into the next larger size of pot when the roots begin wrapping around each other. Place a small amount of new potting mix in the bottom of the new pot, disturb the root system of your hibiscus with your fingers, and place it into the pot. The top of the root ball should be approximately 1 inch below the rim of the pot. Fill the pot with fresh potting mix, and work it in gently with your fingers to get it to settle; press the top of the soil firmly around the hibiscus and water thoroughly. [图片]Food and Drink Applications of a water-soluble fertilizer specifically designed for tropical hibiscus is an ideal fertilizer for these plants. These fertilizers have low phosphorus, and often an N-P-K ratio of 9-3-13 or 10-4-12. Water your potted hibiscus thoroughly and apply 1 teaspoon of granular 10-4-12 hibiscus food for 6- to 12-inch pots, or 2 teaspoons for 14-inch or larger pots; water again after application. Feed once per month or every six weeks. Hibiscus plants can't handle being waterlogged; allow the soil to dry before watering. Water more frequently in hot weather. In the Ground Choose a location with well-drained soil if you live in an area that stays warm enough -- USDA zones 9 and 10 -- to plant your hibiscus tree outside in the ground. Clay soils will remain too waterlogged for these tropical plants; sand soils will drain too quickly. When in doubt, plant in a raised bed. Water frequently when temperatures are hot, keeping the root system in moist soil. Maintaining Your Plant Pruning hibiscus trees is an option, although not always necessary. A selective prune is often the best option for hibiscus and hibiscus trees. Prune in autumn as you bring your potted plant indoors for the winter. Prune older branches down to the second or third nodes, the small nubs where new branches or leaves come out. As for pests, hibiscus is prone to white flies and mites in particular. To control them, smother with insecticidal soap, an organic-safe insecticide. Spray the leaves thoroughly, including the undersides, and the stems -- anywhere these small pests are present. Repeat every two or three weeks until the infestation is gone.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月15日
Miss Chen
Vinca, also known as catharanthus or Madagascar periwinkle, is a popular annual flower. Growing upwards to 10 to 16 inches tall, with dark green leaves and five-petal blossoms in pink, mauve or white, these flowers spread quickly and require little care. While vincas have few problems, occasionally they will suddenly wilt and die. [图片]Symptoms and Causes According to the Alabama Agricultural Experiment Station and Clemson University Extension, there are several diseases and fungus that can cause vincas to wilt, including phytophthora stem blight and root rot, pythium root rot, rhizoctonia stem and root rot, gray mold and the tomato spotted wilt virus. Symptoms of these diseases and fungus include dark colored lesions on the stems and branches, yellowing leaves with stunted growth, spots on the foliage, gray mold on the plant or black concentric rings on the leaves. Many of these diseases and fungus are prevalent in soil that has poor drainage or gardens that have been watered incorrectly. [图片]Prevention and Treatment Select healthy vinca to plant in the garden. Enrich the garden's soil with well-rotted manure or compost before planting to help increase the soil's moisture-retention. Do not plant the vinca deeply and space 8 to 12 inches apart to allow for air circulation. Vincas need about 1 inch of water each week; if rainfall is insufficient, avoid overhead irrigation systems and water deeply in the early morning to allow the plants time to dry before nightfall. Remove and destroy any affected plants. Treat the remaining plants with a fungicide; contact your local extension office to determine which fungicide is needed.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月15日
Miss Chen
Lobelia, marked by intense colors and masses of small, tubular blooms, provides interest to the garden all summer. Annual lobelia (Lobelia erinus), grown as a perennial in the warm climates of U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 10, is a bushy, low-growing plant often used in flower beds and hanging baskets. Perennial varieties, which include cardinal flower (Lobelia cardinalis) and lobelia speciosa (Lobelia x speciosa), are tall, upright plants that reach heights of up to 4 feet. They are hardy perennials that grow in USDA zones 3 through 9. Watering Lobelia [图片]Annual lobelia requires frequent watering during the growing season because the short roots remain near the surface. Water slowly, using a garden hose or drip system, to saturate the soil to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. Allow the top 1 to 2 inches of soil to dry before watering again, as poorly drained, soggy soil may create root rot or other fungal diseases. Perennial varieties benefit from regular watering the first year. Thereafter, the plants are drought-tolerant, and water is necessary only during periods of hot, dry weather. Fertilize to Promote Healthy Blooms [图片]Annual and perennial lobelia varieties benefit from application of a dry, 5-10-10 or 5-10-5 fertilizer at planting time. Dig the fertilizer into the ground at a rate of about 5 pounds per 100 square feet of planting space. Repeat every spring for perennial varieties. Although a yearly feeding is sufficient for perennials, annual lobelia requires frequent feeding to sustain energy for blooming throughout the season. Use a liquid fertilizer with a ratio such as 12-4-8, mixed at a rate of 1 teaspoon per gallon of water every two to three weeks. Always apply fertilizer to damp soil to prevent damage to the plant; then water thoroughly to distribute the fertilizer evenly around the roots. Maintaining Healthy Plants [图片]Pinch back the tips of young annual and perennial lobelia plants by 1/2 to 1 inch to create full, bushy plants. Thereafter, shear annual lobelia by about half its height if it becomes tired and leggy in midsummer. To prevent spread of disease organisms, disinfect shears and other cutting tools by wiping the blades with rubbing alcohol before and after each use. You can also sanitize the blades with a mixture of 1 part bleach and 9 parts water. Deadhead perennial varieties to keep the plants looking their best and promote development of flowers throughout the growing season. To deadhead, pinch off wilted blooms along with the stem down to the next branch or leaf. Perennial and annual varieties benefit from 2 to 3 inches of mulch to keep the roots cool and moist during the growing season. Keep a layer of mulch around perennial varieties to protect the roots during the winter. Divide perennial lobelia every two to three years to keep the plant from becoming crowded. Special Considerations [图片]Lobelia is a pest-resistant plant; however, perennial varieties may be bothered by slugs and snails. If the infestation is light, pick the pests off by hand and drop them in a bucket of soapy water. Otherwise, apply slug bait at a rate of 1 teaspoon per square yard of planting area. Keep the container tightly closed, and store it in a locked place where it is inaccessible to children and pets. Plant lobelia with care because some varieties, including Lobelia cardinalis, are poisonous if eaten in large quantities.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月15日
Miss Chen
Whether a garden is drenched in sun or deep in shade, at least one of the more than 1,000 begonia species (Begonia spp.) and thousands of begonia cultivars can lift it from mundane to magical. As subtropical and tropical plants, most begonias survive winters outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 11. Elsewhere, they can be lifted before the first frost and stored indoors for the winter. Frost isn't their only enemy; the humidity begonias love exposes them to powdery mildew. Treat an infection culturally or organically before resorting to chemical fungicide. [图片]The Fungi Two powdery mildew fungi (Erysiphe cichoracearum and Oidium begoniae) infect begonias. Wind or water carry their spores to begonia leaves, but they need the right conditions to germinate. The chances of infection increase when water vapor -- or humidity -- in the air condenses as temperatures drop and dampens the begonias' leaves. Without any moisture, spores landing on the leaves don't germinate. On slightly damp leaves, they germinate in only one hour. Standing water on the leaves drown the spores. The threat of infection is highest on begonias growing in shade at temperatures fluctuating between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Cultural Treatments Water begonias in midmorning by sprinkling them from above. Sprinkling removes spores already on the leaves, and drowns the ones landing before the leaves dry. To lower the humidity around potted begonias, space their pots at least 1 foot apart for good air circulation. [图片]Prune mildewed leaves at the first sign of infection and dispose of them in sealed plastic bags. Remove them with clean, sharp stem cutters rinsed in rubbing alcohol between cuts and after use. The Milk-and-Water Treatment A solution of 1 part skim or raw milk to 9 parts water sprayed on infested plants reduces powdery mildew symptoms up to 90 percent, reports the National Gardening Association. The catch is that the milk-and-water solution won't work on shade-garden begonias. It needs sunlight to trigger its mildew-killing properties, according to researcher Peter Crisp of Australia's Adelaide University. Spray begonias in sun until the solution coats all their surfaces. Repeat weekly until mildew-favoring conditions subside. Neem Oil Treatment Correctly treating begonias with organic, ready-to-use neem oil spray controls powdery mildew without hurting honeybees or other beneficial insects. Time the treatment for the the early morning or after dark, when bees aren't pollinating. In calm, dry weather with a temperature below 90 degrees Fahrenheit, water the plants well. Dress in protective clothing, including a long-sleeved shirt, long pants, waterproof gloves, a respiratory mask and safety goggles. Coat the begonias until they drip, being sure to hit the backs of the leaves. Repeat weekly as long as you see symptoms, and then every other week as long as the weather stays dry and temperatures remain between 60 and 80 degrees F.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月15日
Miss Chen
Petunias are lively, flowering annuals that come in a variety of colors. Keeping your petunias blooming is fairly straightforward as long as you know what to do and when to do it. Petunias do require regular maintenance throughout the growing season. [图片]Step 1 Plant petunias in full sun. They love the sun and as a result will produce more flowers. Step 2 Fertilize petunias once every three weeks. They like fertilizers that are balanced like 8-8-8 or 10-10-10. Before applying a liquid fertilizer make sure the plants are well watered. Never fertilize petunias that aren't properly hydrated. Use time-release fertilizer granules in potted plants. This will ensure they are getting a little extra nourishment every time they're watered. Step 3 Examine the petunia plants to see if they are end-of-stem bloomers. If they are, you have to cut the stems back. Otherwise the stems will keep growing longer, get leggy and won't produce flowers. If the stem is 8 inches or longer, start clipping. Pick three or four stems each week to cut back. Clip the stems in half. This will cause the remaining stem portion to grow two branches just below the cut. Each branch will becoming a blooming tip. [图片]Step 4 Look at the dying blooms on the petunia plant. If there is a bulge developing at the base of the bloom it means this variety of petunia plant is a seed producer. Dead head (pinch or cut off the dead flower below the bloom). Make sure the seed bulge is cut off with the flower. This stops the plant from sending its energy to the growing of seeds and instead will use its energy to start producing more flowers. Step 5 Cut back long stemmed petunias that have stopped producing flowers altogether by 2/3 and add fertilizer. Again clip randomly over a seven- to 10-day period. After clipping it'll take the stems three or four weeks to start blooming again.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月15日
Miss Chen
To a flower gardener, few things are more satisfying than a hanging basket overflowing with masses of blooms. Although wave petunias lack the stop-in-your-tracks scent of the traditional variety, they provide an eye-catching cascade of bright white, pink and purple flowers that last as long as the warm weather holds. If your once-beautiful wave petunias stop flowering before their season is over, a few approaches will likely remedy the situation. [图片]A Sense of Place Petunias in general are fairly hardy plants during warm weather months and do well in most types of soil. Although they are somewhat drought-tolerant, they prefer a moist, well drained, loamy soil. When watering wave petunias planted as ground cover, direct the water toward their roots. Waterlogged blooms will turn to mush and fall off. Aphid attacks, though possible, are rare and tend not to affect the plant's ability to flower. Wash these tiny pests off with a light spray of water, and then gently shake the water off the blooms to avoid soft rot. Regardless of soil conditions, a petunia plant will bloom either sparingly or not at all if it doesn't receive enough light. These sun-loving annuals bloom most abundantly in full sun and stand up to heat particularly well. If you have a hanging basket of wave petunias that aren't blooming or have stopped blooming, check whether it's in partial or full shade. Switching the plant to a south-facing porch or wall hook will provide the full sun exposure it needs, ensuring a magnificent display all season long. If you're using your multiflora as a ground cover, transplant it to an open space where taller plants won't rob it of sunlight. [图片]Care and Feeding Wave petunias are an increasingly popular class of the multiflora petunia hybrid. Their 1- to 1 1/2-inch flowers grow quickly and tend to out-bloom and outlast their larger, delicately scented counterparts. A well-fed petunia, regardless of variety, will reward you with healthy foliage and masses of color. To revive the blooms on your plant, once a month, add a phosphorus- and potassium-rich fertilizer to your watering can and give the petunias a good soak. The rest of the time, keep the soil moist. Hanging baskets in full sun often need watering once a day to thrive during the hottest days of the summer. You may get lucky and be able to completely revive a drooping petunia, but there's a fine line between droopy and dead, so watering often is highly recommended. Drastic Measures, Dramatic Results All varieties of petunia benefit from constant grooming. If the foliage is growing without blooms, pinch off the old withered blooms. This make the plant substantially more attractive and redirect the plant's energy into producing more flowers. Though you may be tempted to let the plant continue to grow in length (up to 3 feet for the wave variety), you'll discover it becomes less attractive and more scraggly when it's allowed to continue down this path. Mid-season, bite the bullet and cut back the petunia plant by half. Within a week you'll be rewarded with a resurrection of the bushy, flower-heavy plant that tempted your pocketbook at the beginning of the season. All season long, don't hesitate to cut back any rangy growth for the same result.
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