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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月15日
Dummer. ゛☀
Succulent and southern gardeners will recognize the damage of the agave snout weevil. What is the agave snout weevil? This pest is a double edged sword, doing damage to agave and other plants in both its beetle and larval form. Damage occurs quickly, followed by death because the bite of the weevil deposits bacteria that literally rot the agave. As the tissues soften and decay, the parent and its progeny are merrily munching away on your plant. Snout weevil control is essential in southwestern areas, especially where agave is grown to make tequila. A population of agave snout weevils can decimate the agave crop and then what will we put in margaritas? [图片]What is the Agave Snout Weevil? The weevil is a form of beetle and grows approximately an inch long. It is a black insect with the scientific name Scyphophorus acupuntatus. The insects usually choose unhealthy or old agaves to deposit their eggs. Once an agave has bloomed, it is at the end of its life cycle and these plants are especially prone to agave snout weevil infestations. The bite of the beetle injects bacteria which cause the plant tissues to soften and liquefy. This makes it easier for the larvae and parent to eat the tissues, but it will eventually cause the collapse of even the most might of agave. Snout weevil damage is extensive and soon leads to death of the plant. [图片]Snout Weevil Damage The agave is a succulent plant also known as the Century plant. This is due to the bloom habit of the plant. It blooms only once in its life and then dies, and it can take years for the plant to produce that one flower. The adult weevil bites the heart of the agave and lays its eggs there. When the larvae hatch, they spread bacteria and do physical damage as they chew further into the core of the plant. The larvae are the same ones you find in a tequila bottle and they busily chew until they have disconnected the interior tissue that connected the leaves to the crown. One day it will look fine, the next day the plant is wilted and the stiff rapier sharp leaves are flat to the ground. The foliage will pull easily out of the crown and the center of the rosette is mushy and foul smelling. By the time this happens, snout weevil control is pointless for that plant, but if you have other succulents and agave, there are steps you can take to protect them. Controlling Snout Nosed Weevils Agave snout weevil treatment is widely available in Arizona, New Mexico and zones where the plants are grow outdoors. The indoor agave gardener may have to look a little harder for products that will work against the weevils. Triazanon is available at most nursery and garden centers. Apply the granular form and dig it into the soil around the agave. When you water, the chemical will slowly release down to the roots of the plant and then into the vascular tissue, protecting it from the pest. Apply this snout weevil control once per month during the growing season. Agave snout weevil treatment with sprays is tricky because the insect is protected by the thick leaves. If your agave has already succumbed, replace it with a resistant variety so you don’t have to again go through the trauma of losing a favorite plant.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月15日
Dummer. ゛☀
Anthracnose of agaves is bad news to be sure. The good news, however, is that although the fungus is unsightly, anthracnose on agave plants isn’t an automatic death sentence. The key is to improve growing conditions, and to treat the plant as soon as possible. Read on to learn how to prevent and control anthracnose of agaves. [图片]What is Agave Anthracnose? Like other agave fungal diseases, anthracnose of agaves generally occurs when growing conditions are wet and humid. While this may be due to the moods of Mother Nature, including splashing rain, it can also be the result of too much shade or excessive irrigation, especially via overhead sprinklers. The primary sign of anthracnose of agaves include unsightly sunken lesions on the crown and sword-like leaves, often with a visible, reddish-brown spore mass. The disease spores spread from plant to plant via splashing water or wind-blown rain. [图片]Agave Anthracnose Treatment and Prevention When it comes to anthracnose of agaves, prevention is definitely the best means of control, as fungicides aren’t always effective. Plant agaves in full sunlight, always in well-drained soil. Irrigate the plant using drip irrigation or a soaker hose and avoid overhead sprinklers. Never water overhead if the disease is present. Disinfect garden tools by spraying them with isopropyl rubbing alcohol or a mixture of 10 parts water to one part household bleach. If you’re in the market for new agave plants, look for healthy, disease-resistant cultivars. Allow generous distance between plants to provide adequate air circulation. Part of agave anthracnose treatment involves the immediate removal of growth with active lesions. Destroy infected plant parts carefully to avoid spread of disease. Never compost diseased plant parts. Apply sulfur powder or copper spray weekly, beginning in spring and continuing every couple of weeks throughout the growing season, but not during hot weather. Alternatively, neem oil spray applied every couple of weeks may also be an effective preventive measure. Spray agave plants and the surrounding soil with a broad-spectrum fungicide during wet, humid weather. Products containing Bacillus subtilis are non-toxic to bees and other beneficial insects.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月15日
Dummer. ゛☀
Root rot is a common disease in plants that is usually caused by poor drainage or improper watering. While more common in potted plants, root rot can also affect outdoor plants. Desert plants like succulents, cacti and agave are especially susceptible to root rot if they are planted in the wrong conditions. Continue reading to learn more about managing root rot in agave. [图片].jpg"> What is Agave Root Rot? Agave, also commonly called century plant, is a desert plant native to Mexico. It grows best in dry conditions in full sun. Too much shade or soil that is too moist and drains poorly can cause the plant’s roots to rot. Weather fluctuations, such as unusual cold and rainy periods followed by extreme heat and humidity, can also contribute to root rot.[图片]Agave is hardy in zones 8-10. They have been known to survive temperature down to 15 degrees F. (-9 C.) but when exposed to freezing temperatures, the plant will be damaged by frost in just a few hours. Weakened, damaged plant tissues become a perfect host for fungal and bacterial diseases and pests. Then as the earth heats up and humidity fills the air, fungal diseases quickly grow and spread. Because roots are under soil, root rot may go undetected until the whole plant tips over from having no roots to anchor it in place. Bacterial crown and root rot can also be common in agave, caused by the agave snout weevil. The adult agave snout weevil chews on the lower parts of the agave plant, injecting the plant tissues with a bacteria as it chews, which causes them to rot. It then lays its eggs in the rotting tissue and, when hatched, the agave snout weevil larvae feed on the rotting crown and roots. [图片]Alleviating Root Problems of Agave Plants Agave root rot symptoms may include a general unhealthy appearance of the plant, lesions around the plant crown, tipping over of the plant and roots that are gray/black and slimy. If caught before the entire root system has rotted, you can dig up the plant, remove all soil from the roots and cut off all the rotted parts. Then treat the plant and roots with a fungicide such as thiopanate methyl or neem oil. Move the plant to a different location with full sun and well-draining soil. Pumice can be mixed in with the soil for better drainage. If the roots have all rotted, all you can do is discard the plant and treat the soil with fungicide to prevent the fungal disease from spreading to other plants. To prevent agave root rot in the future, remember agave is a desert plant. It needs full sun and should be planted in an area that tends to be dry, like a rock garden.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月15日
Dummer. ゛☀
While usually an easy plant to grow in rock gardens and hot, dry areas, agave can be susceptible to bacterial and fungal rots if exposed to too much moisture and humidity. Cool, wet spring weather that rapidly changes to hot, humid summer can cause a surge in fungal growth and pest populations. Mid to late summer crown rot of agave plants can be common in cooler climates and potted plants. Read on to learn what you can do for agave plants with crown rot. What is Agave Crown Rot? [图片]Agave, or century plant, is native to the deserts of Mexico and hardy in zones 8-10. In landscaping, they can be a stunning addition to rock gardens and other xeriscaping projects. The best way to prevent root and crown rot of agave plants is to situate them in a location with excellent drainage, infrequent irrigation and full sun.[图片]Agave plants should also never be watered overhead, a slow trickle of water right at the root zone can prevent the splashing and spreading of fungal spores, as well as prevent the crown rot that can happen if water pools up in the crown of agave plants. Pumice, crushed stone or sand can be added to the soil when planting an agave to provide more drainage. Container grown agave will do best in a cacti or succulent soil mixture. Crown rot of agave may present itself as gray or mottled lesions or, in extreme cases, the plant’s leaves may entirely turn gray or black and shrivel right where they grow out from the crown. Red/orange fungal spores may also be obvious near the plant crown. Crown and root rots in agave can also be caused by an insect called the agave snout weevil, which injects bacteria into the plant as it chews on its leaves. The bacteria causes soft squishy lesions in the plant where the pest then lays its eggs. Once hatched, the weevil larvae tunnel their way to the roots and soil, spreading rot as they work their way throughout the plant. How to Save Plants with Crown Rot[图片]It is important to regularly inspect your agave plant for signs of insect chewing and rot, especially if it not growing in the optimal conditions. If caught early enough, fungal and bacterial rots can be controlled with selective pruning and treatment of fungicides such as thiophanate methyl or neem oil. Leaves with chew marks or lesions should be cut off at the crown and disposed of immediately. When pruning away diseased plant tissues, it’s recommended that you dip pruners in a mixture of bleach and water between each cut. In extreme cases of rot, it may be necessary to dig up the whole plant, remove all soil from the roots, prune off all crown and root rot that is present and, if there is any plant left, treat it with fungicide and replant it in a new location. Or it may be best to dig up the plant and replace it with a disease resistant variety. Before planting anything in the area that an infected plant was growing in, you should sterilize the soil, which could still contain pests and disease after the infected plant has been removed.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月15日
Dummer. ゛☀
Agave is a desert plant, native to Mexico and hardy in zones 8-10. While generally a low maintenance, easy-to-grow plant, agave can be susceptible to fungal and bacterial rots, as well as pest problems such as the agave snout weevil and the agave plant bug (Caulotops barberi). If you have noticed bugs eating agave plants in your landscape, continue reading to learn more about Caulotops barberi pests and controlling agave plant bugs in the garden. [图片]What are Caulotops Barberi Pests? In the landscape, agave plants can potentially grow to a height and spread of 20 feet. However, these landscape grown agaves can be susceptible to the Caulotops barberi pest, resulting in stunted or irregular growth. If you notice stunted or distorted growth, speckled or spotted foliage, or what appears to be scabs or chew marks on your agave plants, you may wonder, “Are bugs on my agave?” The answer may be a resounding, yes! The agave plant bug is also commonly called the agave running bug because for such a small insect, it has long legs, enabling the insect to run very quickly.[图片]These 1.6 mm long insects can go almost unnoticed because they are so small and will quickly hide if they feel threatened. Agave plant bugs are most likely the culprit in U.S. hardiness zones 8-10. Container grown agave plants in cooler climates are rarely effected by this pest, though. In late summer to early fall, large populations of agave plant bugs may infest agave and other succulents, causing massive damage to a xeriscape. In groups, these small tan-black colored insects are much easier to spot, but by then you’ll have quite an infestation to try to rid your landscape of and damage to some of the plants may be irreversible. [图片]Agave Plant Bug Control Insecticidal soap or broad spectrum insecticides can be effective in controlling agave plant bugs. However, these tiny insects can hide in soil, mulch and garden debris around the infected plant, so it is necessary to treat all areas around the plant as well. Keep beds clear of debris to eliminate hiding places. Insecticides should be applied in the early morning or late at night, when Caulotops barberi pests are most active. Agave plant bug control should be repeated every two weeks to ensure eradication of this pest. Be sure to spray all surfaces of the plant, as these small insects can easily hide in every nook and cranny. A preventative systemic insecticide can be used in spring to help control agave pests.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月15日
Dummer. ゛☀
Can agave grow in pots? You bet! With so many varieties of agave available, container grown agave plants are an excellent choice for the gardener with limited space, less than perfect soil conditions, and a lack of abundant sunlight. Since most agaves thrive year round in warmer climates, container plants are also a wonderful choice for gardeners living in climates that experience colder temperatures.Potted agave also provide the flexibility of being mobile. Growing agave plants in pots allows you to move the containers to the location that provides the light, temperature and weather conditions that will help your agave thrive. [图片]How to Grow Agave in Containers Growing agave plants in pots is fun and rewarding. Any agave can be grown in a container, but the smaller varieties are the most popular. Agave plants love to be root bound, so growing them in pots make these plants excellent candidates for houseplants.[图片]All container grown agave pants need a soil that dries slowly but drains quickly. For outdoor containers, you can make a good soil mixture by mixing equal parts of compost; potting mix or garden soil; and either gravel, pumice, or coarse sand. Do not use peat moss, which is undesirable for agave plant growing. For indoor grown agave, make sure you use a sterilized potting mix combined with either gravel, pumice, or coarse sand. When you pot your agave, do not bury the plant too deeply in the soil. Make sure the crown of the plant is above the soil line to prevent crown rot, a disease that is detrimental to agave plants. [图片]Potted Agave Care Agave plants need plenty of sunlight. If you are growing agave plants indoors, choose a bright, sunny window with as much sun possible. A south- or west-facing window works very well. Keep your agave sufficiently watered, and always water completely, making sure the soil is at least half dry before watering again. If you are not sure the soil is dry enough, it is better to wait a day to avoid over-watering your plant. Don’t forget to fertilize. Late spring and summer are the times to feed your container grown agave with a balanced (20-20-20), all-purpose liquid fertilizer at half-strength once a month.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月15日
Miss Chen
Portulaca grandiflora, commonly called moss rose, grows as a colorful, spreading ground cover in beds, borders and containers. This annual flower grows readily from seed broadcast directly in the garden bed, or you can plant it from transplants in spring after frost danger has passed. Moss rose is related to the invasive annual weed purslane (Portulaca oleracea). Although the cultivated version doesn't spread as readily, it can also become invasive in some areas. The Right Location [图片]Moss rose grows well in rocky, sandy soil that drains quickly. The plants spread fast, covering up to 12 inches of bed and growing about 6 inches tall. When adding plants to the garden, give moss rose the room it needs to reach its full spread and avoid planting tall plants nearby that may shade it. Moss rose spreads by self-seeding, so growing it in a site where you want it to return each year is the best choice. In mild, frost-free climates it sometimes becomes invasive and shouldn't be planted. A Little Drink [图片]Although highly drought-tolerant, you will be rewarded with more flowers and lusher foliage if you water moss rose regularly. Provide about 1 inch of water weekly unless there is a comparable amount of rainfall. Container-grown plants may need daily watering, so water these when the top 1 inch of soil feels dry. Overhead watering, which wets the foliage, damages the flowers or causes them to drop prematurely. Water near the base of the plants so the flowers and leaves stay dry. Moss rose doesn't need fertilizers and can grow well in poor soil. Off With Their Heads [图片]Regular deadheading serves two purposes: It removes the old flowers so they don't form seeds, and it cleans up the plants while encouraging more flowers. Grasp the stem behind the wilted flower and pinch it off, removing both the old bloom and the swollen seed-producing structure at the base of the flower. Moss rose flowers from midsummer through fall, so you may need to deadhead a few times a week. You can also trim back dead or damaged stems to a leaf or bud. Simply pinch off the stem or cut it off with shears that have been wiped with a cloth soaked with rubbing alcohol. Watch for Problems [图片]Few pests or diseases bother moss rose. Aphids, small pear-shaped, sap-sucking insects, may sometimes feed on the foliage. Rinse them off with a sharp spray of water aimed at the undersides of the leaves. Root rot is an issue that will kill the plants in wet or poorly drained soil, but planting in the appropriate site prevents problems. Rust, a fungal disease, may infect a plant. The fungus causes the stems and leaves to swell, and white pustules form on the foliage. Pull up and destroy infected plants so they don't spread the fungal spores.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月15日
Miss Chen
To brighten your summer garden with vividly colored flowers, include zinnias (Zinnia elegans) when choosing plants. An old-fashioned favorite that's especially easy-to-grow, the zinnia plant produces masses of colorful blossom throughout summer and early fall. Zinnias grow as annuals in all parts of the United States, thriving in any sunny spot when given just basic care and some trimming now and then. [图片]Off to a Good Start Start zinnias indoors from seeds four to six weeks before your last frost date, or direct-sow zinnia seeds in the garden once temperatures remain above about 60 degrees Fahrenheit. It's important to give plants enough space to grow without crowding, so thin direct-sown seedlings or space indoor-grown seedlings to allow about 6 inches between shorter varieties and about 12 inches between plants for types that become 2 or more feet tall. To ensure season-long flowers, sow more seed every two or three weeks until early summer; new plants will produce healthy flower buds when the first plants are beginning to slow their growth and shut down flower production as fall approaches. Watering and Feeding Water newly planted zinnias frequently during the first week or two, keeping the soil evenly moist until roots become established. Then water whenever soil feels dry an inch or two below the surface, aiming for about 1 inch of water each week, including rain. Adding 3 or 4 inches of organic mulch such as straw or shredded bark under each plant's canopy also helps conserve soil moisture while keeping down weeds, but keep the mulch back a few inches from each plant's base to discourage fungal growth. Fertilizing zinnias helps keep new flower buds coming non-stop through most of the season. Give an initial feeding when seedlings are about 4 inches tall, using a 5-10-5, water-soluble formula. Dilute the fertilizer to 1/4 strength, or 1/4 teaspoon per 4 gallons of water, but check your product label for additional directions. Feed again in mid-summer to keep the plants growing and flowering as long as possible. [图片]Trimming and Deadheading Zinnias are naturally bushy plants, especially when grown in full sun, but pinching out new growth on young plants helps promote extra branching, making plants even fuller and providing more stems that produce blossoms. If you do this when shoots are young and tender, you can pinch out soft new growth with your fingers. To trim back slightly larger stems, use sharp shears, disinfecting the blades by wiping them with rubbing alcohol between cuts to discourage spread of plant disease. As flowers fade on zinnia plants, cut these off just ahead of the first set of leaves on the flower stem -- called deadheading. This helps spur production of new flower buds on the remaining stems and also helps keep the plant looking tidy. Because zinnias are annuals, they don't survive winter, but leaving a few spent flowers on the plant allows seeds to mature that can drop to the ground. These may produce new, "volunteer" seedlings the following spring. Preventing Problems Zinnias are susceptible to several fungal disorders, including powdery mildew, which makes zinnia leaves look whitish and sprinkled with powder. Eventually, leaves turn brown, then dry up and fall from the plant. Mildew is best prevented by choosing mildew-resistant varieties, spacing plants properly and watering plants with a soaker hose or drip irrigation that helps keep foliage dry. Zinnias can attract a few pests, including Japanese beetles and some caterpillars that chew foliage, slowing plant growth and potentially stopping flower development. Destroy these pests by handpicking them. You might also see whiteflies, tiny white flying insects, and soft-bodied, yellowish aphids; these insects suck plant juices and slow flowering. Rid the plant of these pests by spraying it until dripping with insecticidal soap, diluted at a rate of 5 tablespoons per gallon of water. Repeat the spray every two weeks as needed.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月15日
Miss Chen
With their showy flowers and low-maintenance needs, bottlebrush trees (Callistemon spp.) are often chosen in warm growing zones for hedges or statement plants. They grow best in full sun and soil with low alkalinity, but other than that aren't very picky about where you plant them. Soil Preparation Bottlebrush thrive in a wide variety of soil conditions, except for highly alkaline soil. They will tolerate slightly alkaline soils, but high alkalinity results in chlorosis, which turns the plant's leaves yellow. Soils with a pH higher than 7.5 have moderate or high alkalinity. You should test the soil pH before planting bottlebrush plants. You can stabilize the pH of some soil types, but there is no way to permanently lower the alkalinity of soils with a high concentration of lime. Test lime content by placing about 1 tablespoon of dry soil in a cup and moistening it with white vinegar. If the soil bubbles, it contains too much lime to amend the soil sufficiently. If it does not bubble, regularly adding organic amendments can decrease the alkalinity enough to grow bottlebrushes. Amend soils before planting with an organic amendment low in mineral salts, such as plant-based composts and sphagnum peat moss. This will help stabilize the soil pH and improve soil texture, even in soils that do not test as alkaline. Spread a layer of amendment 2 to 3 inches deep over the planting surface, and work it in to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. If you're using organic matter to lower soil pH, apply this same amount each year for the next three years, then apply 1 to 2 inches each year after that. [图片]Planting Tips Dig a planting hole 1 to 2 inches shallower than the rootball and three times as wide. This prevents trees from settling too deep in the soil after planting and provides loose soil on either side for new roots to grow. Remove the container and set the tree in the hole, then fill in around the plant with the same soil you dug out of the planting hole. When you're done, you want the tree at the same depth it was previously growing or slightly higher than the surrounding soil, with the soil sloped up to meet the top of the rootball. When digging planting holes for multiple trees, space far enough apart to allow for the tree's mature size. For instance, red bottlebrush (Callistemon citrinus, U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9a through 11) grows 10 to 15 feet tall and wide, and weeping bottlebrush (Callistemon viminalis, USDA zones 9b through 11) grows 15 to 20 feet. Spacing them 4 to 9 feet apart gives them room to grow with some overlap. Dwarf bottlebrush (Callistemon citrinus 'Little John,' USDA zones 8 through 11) grows only 5 feet wide so you can plant them 2 feet apart. In their preferred growing zones, bottlebrush can be planted year-round. You'll just have to make sure that you can supply adequate water for the new roots. In Florida, for example, it's easier to plant during the cooler fall, winter and spring than trying to supply enough water to keep the soil moist during hot summers. [图片]After-Planting Care Right after planting, water thoroughly to settle the soil. If the soil level drops after watering, add more soil and water again. For the first year after planting, water regularly to keep the soil moist. Bottlebrush are native to damp locations and are more likely to establish deep root systems if you give them plenty of water. After they are well-established, most bottlebrush varieties are drought tolerant and need very little supplemental watering. The exception is weeping bottlebrush, which requires plenty of water to keep the soil moist. To keep them growing and flowering well, fertilize bottlebrush with a low-phosphorous fertilizer. Phosphorous is represented by the middle number in a fertilizer's N-P-K ratio, so look for fertilizers with a lower number in the middle. For example, apply a dry slow-release fertilizer with an N-P-K ratio of 12-4-8 by scattering 1 tablespoon per square foot of soil surface. Do this twice a year, once in the spring and once in the fall.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月15日
Miss Chen
Portulaca grandiflora, also called moss rose, tends to self-seed, but harvesting seeds from this annual plant helps keep it where you want it. Moss rose quickly spreads in full-sun, dry areas when seed capsules are left on the plant. Growing 4 to 8 inches tall and 6 to 24 inches wide, moss rose varieties include the early-flowering Margarita series, "Sundial," which produces early, double flowers in sunset colors, and "Calypso," which features white, yellow, orange, pink or purple double flowers. [图片]Moss Rose Varieties Suppliers sell moss rose cultivars, hybrids, strains, heirlooms and mixes, and only some of these come true from seed. Cultivars and hybrids are specially bred to have certain characteristics, such as flower color, shape or performance, but they don't pass on these characteristics to their offspring. Some cultivar and hybrid seeds may not even sprout. Strains and heirloom plants are often older varieties, and these are more reliable in producing plants that are similar to themselves. Mixes are different varieties mixed together, and these may cross-fertilize, producing unpredictable results. Moss rose cultivars and hybrids are often more expensive than other varieties. If you aren't sure what type of moss rose you're growing, ask the garden center where you bought it. Harvesting Seed Moss rose seeds are fine as dust and develop inside seed capsules, which you can harvest. Moss rose flowers in summer. The seed capsules are 1/8 to 1/4 inch long, and they develop after the flowers are pollinated. When the seed capsules are ripe, they turn dry and papery and split open. Inside are many tiny, blue-gray seeds. [图片]Harvest ripe moss rose seed capsules on a dry, sunny day. If you aren't sure whether the capsules are ripe, gently rub one between your thumb and forefinger. To avoid spilling the seeds on the soil, where they may sprout the following year, take a seed capsule indoors before testing it. Pinch off the ripe capsules and put them in a paper bag. Separating Seed Moss rose seeds should be separated from the seed capsules and dried before storing. Crush the seed capsules over a sheet of newspaper in a draft-free place. Place a colander on another sheet of newspaper, and pour the the crushed seed capsules into the colander. Gently shake the colander so that the seeds fall through but the capsule debris is left behind. Moss rose seeds must be stored in an airtight container. Lift the newspaper and close it along its crease. Place one edge of the crease at the lip of an open airtight container, and lift the newspaper so the seeds slide into the container. Flick the newspaper once or twice with your finger to loosen any remaining seeds, put the newspaper down, then seal the container. Storing Seed A refrigerator is the best place for storing moss rose seeds, where they will remain fresh for sowing the following year. Put moss rose seeds in their sealed, airtight container in a refrigerator or similar cool, dry place such as a basement or cellar. Don't place the container in direct light, and don't open the container to check on the seeds until it's time to sow them. Direct light warms up the inside of the container, damaging the seeds, and opening the container allows moisture inside, which encourages the seeds to rot.
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