绿手指
首页
动态
文章
百科
花园
设置
简体中文
已关注
+
关注
花园 (6)
动态 (3585)
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
Dummer. ゛☀
BOTANICAL NAME: Fragaria PLANT TYPE: Fruit SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun SOIL TYPE: Loamy SOIL PH: Slightly Acidic to Neutral Sweet, juicy strawberries are treats when right off the plant. Supermarket berries tend to be tart with grainy texture; this is because the natural sugar in the berries begins converting to starch as soon as it is plucked from the plant. It’s definitely worth your while to try growing strawberries, and the good news is that they are relatively easy to grow if you have full sun. Strawberry plants come in three types: Day-Neutral: Insensitive to day length, these varieties produce buds, fruits and runners continuously if temperature remains between 35 and 85. Production is less than that of Junebearers. Everbearer: These varieties form buds during the long days of summer and the short days of autumn. The summer-formed buds flower and fruit in autumn, and the autumn-formed buds fruit the following spring. Junebearer: Length-of-day sensitive, these varieties produce buds in the autumn, flowers and fruits the following spring, and runners during the long days of summer.
PLANTING Buy disease-resistant plants from a reputable nursery, of a variety recommended in your area. Plan to plant as soon as the ground can be worked in the Spring. Strawberries are sprawling plants. Seedlings will send out runners, or ‘daughter’ plants, which in turn will send out their own runners. Make planting holes deep and wide enough to accommodate the entire root system without bending it. However, don’t plant too deep: The roots should be covered, but the crown should be right at the soil surface. Provide adequate space for sprawling. Set plants out 20 inches apart, and leave 4 feet between rows. Roots shouldn’t be longer than 8 inches when plants are set out. Trim them if necessary. pH should be between 5.5 and 7. If necessary, amend your soil in advance. Strawberry plants require 6-10 hours a day of direct sunlight, so choose your planting site accordingly. Tolerant of different soil types, although prefer loam. Begin working in aged manure or compost a couple months before planting. Planting site must be well-drained. Raised beds are a particularly good option for strawberry plants. Practice crop rotation for the most success. Do not plant in a site that recently had strawberries, tomatoes, peppers, or eggplant. Establish new plants each year to keep berry quality high each season. It is also possible to grow strawberries from last year’s runners.
CARE In the first year, pick off blossoms to discourage strawberry plants from fruiting. If not allowed to bear fruit, they will spend their food reserves on developing healthy roots. The yields will be much greater in the second year. Eliminate daughter plants as needed. First and second generations produce higher yields. Try to space each plant about 10 inches apart. Moisture is incredibly important due to shallow roots. Water adequately, about one inch per week. Strawberry plants need a lot of water when the runners and flowers are developing and again in the fall when the plants are mature. Keep the beds mulched to reduce water needs and weed invasion. Be diligent about weeding. Weed by hand, especially in the first months after planting. When the growing season is over, mow or cut foliage down to one inch and mulch plants about 4 inches deep with straw, pine needles or other organic material. This can be done after the first couple of frosts, or when air temps reach 20° F. Remove mulch in early spring, after danger of frost has passed. Row covers are a good option for protecting blossoms and fruit from birds.
PESTS/DISEASES Gray Mold Powdery Mildew Japanese Beetles Spider Mites Slugs
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
Dummer. ゛☀
BOTANICAL NAME: Rheum rhabarbarum PLANT TYPE: Fruit SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun Rhubarb is a perennial vegetable, though it is generally used as a fruit in desserts and jams. Here’s how to plant, grow, and harvest your own rhubarb. Of the rhubarb plant, only the stalks are eaten. These have a rich, tart flavor. The leaves of the rhubarb plant are poisonous, so be sure that they are not ingested. Rhubarb is easy to grow, but needs cool weather to thrive.
PLANTING Before planting, eliminate all perennial weeds. Choose a site that is well-drained, fertile, and preferably in full sunlight. Rhubarb does best where the average temperature falls below 40ºF in the winter and below 75ºF in the summer. Plant one-year rhubarb crowns in early spring as soon as the ground is workable, when the roots are still dormant and before growth begins or plants are just beginning to leaf out. Rhubarb can also be planted in the fall after dormancy has set in. Dig large bushel basket-size holes. Space rhubarb plants about 4 feet apart and plant the roots 1 to 2 inches below the surface of the soil. Be sure to mix compost, rotted manure, or anything high in organic matter in the soil. Rhubarb plants are heavy feeders and need this organic matter. Don’t add a chemical fertilizer when planting rhubarb or during the first year of growth. Direct contact with nitrates can kill your rhubarb plants.
CARE Mulch generously with a heavy layer of straw and cow manure to provide nutrients for the plant, retain moisture, and discourage weeds. Water your plant well. It needs sufficient moisture during the summer. Remove seed stalks as soon as they appear. After the first spring frost, apply a light sprinkling of a high-nitrogen fertilizer (25-3-3 or 10-6-4) when the ground is thawing or has just thawed, so that the fertilizer will go into the ground and not harm the roots. Insects and diseases won’t bother rhubarb plants as long as you keep the plants weed-free. Dig and split rhubarb roots every 3 to 4 years. Divide when plants are dormant in early spring (or fall).
PESTS/DISEASES Crown rot
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
Dummer. ゛☀
BOTANICAL NAME: Rubus PLANT TYPE: Fruit SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun SOIL TYPE: Any SOIL PH: Slightly Acidic to Neutral Raspberries are relatively easy to grow and—with proper care—can bear fruit indefinitely! Though raspberry bushes are naturally inclined to grow in cooler climates, the plants now come in many varieties suited to a range of planting zones. There are two types of raspberries, both with their own specific requirements for growing: Summer-fruiting raspberries bear one crop per season, in summertime (often June or July). Ever-bearing raspberries (also called fall-bearing or primocane-fruiting) bear a fall crop and can also produce fruit the following summer. Most raspberries are summer-bearing varieties and all are self-fertile, meaning you’ll get fruit with only one variety. They’re best pollinated by bees, and will start producing fruit a year after planting. All raspberries will need pruning annually! Raspberries are perennials, however it’s important to realize that their branches (or canes) which bear the fruit live for only two summers. During the first year, the new green cane (primocane) grows vegetatively. The cane develops a brown bark, is dormant in winter, and during the second growing season is called a floricane. The floricane produces fruit in early to mid summer and then dies. New primocanes are produced each year, so fruit production continues year after year. It’s your job to prune out those dead canes each year.
PLANTING Raspberry plants can be purchased as dormant, bare-root plants or as potted plants. Plant bare-root transplants in the early spring as soon as the soil can be worked. Plant potted transplants in the spring after threat of frost has passed. Pick a site with full sun to produce the most fruit. The plant will grow in part shade, but harvests will be meager. Your site needs rich and well-drained soil, great air circulation, and shelter from wind. Avoid a wet area, as well as a windy spot, as raspberries do not like to stand in water nor dry out. Prepare soil with a couple inches of compost or aged manure a couple weeks before planting. (A good rate is about 3 ½ cubic feet of compost per 100 square feet.) Till the soil well before planting. Plant far from wild growing berries, otherwise risk the spread of pests and diseases to your garden. Before planting, soak the roots for an hour or two. Dig a hole that is roomy enough for the roots to spread. Whether you’re planting bare-root or potted plants, keep the crown of the plant 1 or 2 inches above the ground. Space red and yellow raspberry plants from 2 to 3 feet apart, in rows 8 feet apart. Space black and purple types 4 feet apart. Depending on the variety you plant, you may need to fashion a support. A trellis or a fence are good options. If you chose to use one of these, establish them at or before time of planting so the plants are not disturbed when maturing.
CARE Mulching is important throughout the season to conserve moisture and suffocate weeds. Keep a thick layer of mulch surrounding plants at all times. Water one inch per week from spring until after harvest. Regular watering is better than deep soaking. The roots send up an abundant amount of shoots, called canes. Keep order by pruning away the majority of them, so that the survivors can produce lots of berries. Pruning Summer-Bearers produce berries on two year old canes while one year old canes grow right beside them. You shouldn’t have trouble telling which is which: the older canes have brown stems, and the young ones are still green. Prune only the older ones, the ones that have finished their fruitful year. Red raspberries: Prune any time after the last harvest and before growth begins in the spring. Cut all canes that produced fruit to the ground. Thin to 6 sturdy canes per hill (per foot of row). In areas where winter injury is common, you may delay thinning the primocanes until the following spring, when you will be able to tell which canes have survived. Before growth starts in spring, cut the canes to about 12 inches above the support. Don’t cut back more than 25% of each cane, to avoid reducing yield. Black and purple raspberries: When primocanes are between 24 to 30 inches in height, pinch out the tip of each shoot to induce branching. This will make the fruit easier to pick and increase production. After harvest, cut down all canes that bore fruit to ground level. Before growth begins the following spring, cut back all side branches so they are 12 to 18 inches long. Select 6 canes per hill, and prune out the rest. Tie these canes to the support system. Ever-bearing or fall-bearing raspberries This is easy. Just cut all canes to the ground any time after harvest and before growth begins in the spring. They give fruit on canes which are in their first year of growth, after which there is no reason to keep them. Mow them to the ground or use pruning shears for a small patch. Clean up all debris—diseases and pests overwinter. Pruning is not required during the growing season unless you want to keep a uniform order. Note: The above assumes you are harvesting a fall crop. To get both fall and following summer crop, do not remove the primocanes that produced the fall crop. Prune them back in spring to about 12 inches above the support, or to the last visible node that had fruit, cutting off the dead tips.
PESTS/DISEASES Raspberries are one of the few fruits that are hardly bothered by pests and diseases. (Black raspberries are more susceptible to this type of damage than red or purple.) Keep an eye out for spider mites and Japanese beetles from June through August. Rabbits love to eat the canes in winter. A chicken wire fence will help prevent rabbit damage. Powdery Mildew Cane Borers
1
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
Dummer. ゛☀
BOTANICAL NAME: Prunus PLANT TYPE: Fruit SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun SOIL TYPE: Loamy BLOOM TIME: SummerFall Plums are a good choice for beginner gardeners who want to grow fruit trees, as plum trees are widely adapted, more compact, and require less care than most other fruit trees. Not only are plums delicious, but the trees themselves add beauty to any garden.
PLANTING Be prepared to plant more than one type of plum tree because many types require cross-pollination to produce fruit, although there are some varieties that can produce fruit on their own. It is also important to choose a type that will work with your location. There are three categories of plum trees: European, Japanese, and Damson. The hardy European types work in most regions across the U.S., whereas the Japanese types flourish where peach trees thrive. There are also American hybrids that work well in regions where neither European or Japanese types survive. Plant plum trees in well-drained, moderately fertile soil in full sun. Avoid planting in low areas where frost may settle, as the frost will damage your trees. If possible, find a sheltered position, such as a south- or west-facing spot out of the wind. This will help the plum tree set fruit. For container-grown trees, remove the plant from its pot and remove any circling roots by laying the root ball on its side and using shears to cut through the roots. For grafted trees, keep the graft union 1 inch above the soil line when planting. Dig a hole that is a few inches deeper and wider than the spread of the roots. Set the tree on top of a small mound of soil in the middle of the hole. Be sure to spread the roots away from the trunk without excessively bending them. Space standard-size trees 20 to 25 feet apart. Space dwarf trees 15 to 20 feet apart.
CARE Thinning plum trees is important to prevent branches from breaking under the weight of the fruit. If branches do break, prune them back to undamaged wood, ideally cutting back to a natural fork to avoid leaving stubs. Be sure to water the young trees heavily every week during the first growing season to help promote growth. Then, water regularly. It’s best to water the plant deeply at the soil line, then let the soil dry out (though not completely) and water again. Water your tree well into mid-October to give it plenty of moisture through the winter months. Do not fertilize young fruit trees until they have set a crop. Once established, fruit production requires regular fertilizing all year long. If there’s good fruit set, fertilize with one pound calcium nitrate per tree or 1½ lb. 10-10-10. Cut back the nitrogen in fall and winter to avoid encouraging new growth in those seasons. In the fall, rake away all debris and fallen trees. Prune in early spring or mid-summer to avoid infection. The best time for pruning is usually spring for young trees and mid-summer for established ones. Do NOT prune in the fall or winter injury and infection may occur. Are you having pest issues? Talk to your local cooperative extension or garden center about a spray program. To help control pests and diseases, remember to prune your trees to keep them open. You can also mulch around the trees in the spring to help control weeds, but be sure to remove the mulch in the late fall so that no pests use it over the winter. You can also lightly cultivate the soil around your trees in late spring to eliminate any pests in the soil. To prevent winter injury: Consider a tree wrap or guard around the lower trunk, especially for a young plum tree. Keep an eye on the lower bark and branches for mouse or rabbit damage; if this could be a problem, you may need to install tree guards or fence in young trees with chicken wire for the winter. Pruning: Japanese Plum Trees If you have a Japanese variety, the best pruning method is to create an “open center” shape, where the central trunk is cut short and several large branches radiate outwards from it’s tip. In the summer of the first year, cut the vigorous shoots that form on the top of the tree by two or three buds. After about a month, check the tree. As soon as you have three wide-angled branches, spaced equally apart, cut back any other branches so that these three are the main branches. In the early summer of the second year, cut back the branches in the middle of the tree to short stubs and prune any shoots developing below the three main branches. After the third year, remove any shoots in the center of the tree to keep its shape. Japanese types require heavy pruning to help keep them in shape and to produce better fruit. It is also good to thin out the fruit on these types of trees. You should space the plums about 3 to 4 inches apart on each branch. Pruning: European Plum Trees If you have a European variety, the best pruning method is to create a central leader. This shape features a central trunk with branches that spiral out every 5 to 8 inches, making sure that no branch is directly above another. The training for such a system begins in the early summer of the first year, during which time you should remove any shoots that form within 18 inches of the ground. The end result should resemble a Christmas tree. European types do not require fruit thinning because they do not produce as much fruit as Japanese types. However, the fruit on these types should be spaced about 2 inches apart on each branch.
PESTS/DISEASES Silver leaf disease Honey fungus Bacterial canker Pocket plum Japanese beetles Plum aphids Plum moth
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
Dummer. ゛☀
BOTANICAL NAME: Pyrus PLANT TYPE: Fruit SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun SOIL TYPE: LoamySandy BLOOM TIME: SummerFall Biting into a juicy pear is one of the joys of the season. See how to plant, grow, and harvest pears in your own backyard. They are easy to fit into small yard spaces, and attractive, and require very little care once established. Also, growing pears is generally easier than growing apples, as they have less pest and disease issues. Most pear trees are not self-pollinating so plan for at least two trees to ensure consistent fruit. There are many different types of pears; some are best eaten raw and some are best for cooking. You can also grow pears in containers—and plant at any time of the year. (Make sure you purchase pears specifically bred for containers.) Be aware that pears can take from 3 to 10 years to bear fruit. Once they start producing, pear trees are prolific and long-lasting!
PLANTING If you live outside of the dry western regions, you should choose fire blight–resistant types and rootstocks. Plan to plant at least two varieties of pear trees, as they will need to be cross-pollinated to produce fruit. Make sure the varieties are compatible with each other. Plant in any fertile, well-drained soil in full sun in a place with good air circulation in the winter or early spring. Space standard-size trees 20 to 25 feet apart. Space dwarf trees 12 to 15 feet apart. For container-grown trees, remove the plant from its pot and remove any circling roots by laying the root ball on its side and using shears to cut through the roots. For grafted trees, position the inside of the curve of the graft union away from the sun when planting. Dig a hole that is a few inches deeper and wider than the spread of the roots. Set the tree on top of a small mound of soil in the middle of the hole. Be sure to spread the roots away from the trunk without excessively bending them. Do not add fertilizer or topsoil to the hole.
CARE Water the young trees well during dry spells to help establish the roots. Apply a small amount of fertilizer early in the year. Add ⅛ pound of ammonium nitrate per tree multiplied by the number of years the tree has been set in moderately fertile soil. If you have highly fertile soil, use less fertilizer. If the leaves are pale green or yellowish during the summer, use a little more fertilizer the next year. If the tree grows more than 12 inches in one season, use less fertilizer the next year. Be very careful when applying fertilizer! If you give your trees too much nitrogen, they will become more susceptible to fire blight and also may focus too much energy on producing foliage instead of flowers and fruit. For dwarf trees, prune them to a central leader system. Standard-size trees can be pruned to either a central leader system or a modified leader system, which is easier to maintain. The central leader system features a central trunk with branches that spiral out every 5 to 8 inches, making sure that no branch is directly above another. The training for such a system begins in the early summer of the first year, during which time you should remove any shoots that form within 18 inches of the ground. The end result should resemble a Christmas tree. Use spreaders to help shape the branches of the trees. These help the branches to spread outward rather than upward. When the branches are small, you can use clothespins to push the branches away from the main trunk. For bigger branches, use wooden slats with a “V” shape notched into each end. Prune your trees regularly, generally lightly. Remember to thin the fruit as well, leaving about 6 inches between each cluster of fruit per branch. After your trees are established, water them regularly.
PESTS/DISEASES Fire blight Pear psylla Aphids Mites Powdery mildew
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
Dummer. ゛☀
BOTANICAL NAME: Prunus persica PLANT TYPE: Fruit SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun SOIL TYPE: Sandy SOIL PH: Slightly Acidic to Neutral BLOOM TIME: Summer Peaches are a well-known, delicious fruit that can be grown right at home. The trick to growing your very own peaches is to choose a type that will fit with your specific climate.
PLANTING Peach trees can grow in USDA Zones 5 to 8, but do especially well in Zones 6 and 7. If you live in one of these zones, you can focus on choosing a variety based on its flavor and harvest-time. If you live in colder regions, there are some varieties that are more cold tolerant that you can choose. Choose a site with well-drained, moderately fertile soil in full sun. Be sure to avoid low areas because frost can more easily settle there and destroy your peaches. Plant the trees in spring. It is best to plant the trees the day you get them (if possible). Pick a tree that is about 1 year old. For container-grown trees, remove the plant from its pot and remove any circling roots by laying the root ball on its side and using shears to cut through the roots. For grafted trees, position the inside of the curve of the graft union away from the sun when planting. Dig a hole that is a few inches deeper and wider than the spread of the roots. Set the tree on top of a small mound of soil in the middle of the hole. Be sure to spread the roots away from the trunk without excessively bending them. If you are planting standard-size trees, space them 15 to 20 feet apart. Space dwarf trees 10 to 12 feet apart. However, most types of peach trees are self-fertile, so planting one tree at a time is fine. AN ALTERNATIVE PLANTING METHOD If your circumstances are suitable, you might want to try a technique practiced in England. It involves planting a peach tree—ideally a dwarf variety—on the south side of the home or other building, under the eaves of the it. Over time, the gardener prunes and trains the peach tree to espalier in a fan-shape against or very near to the wall of the house. Plastic sheeting is attached to the eaves and draped to cover but not touch the tree, similar to a lean-to. This keeps the tree dry in winter, and the tree enjoys the warms of the sun, directly and as reflected off the house, year round. The plastic should be opened or lifted during bloom time to welcome pollinating insects and on hot, sunny days to ventilate the tree and prevent foliage burn.
CARE About 6 weeks after planting, fertilize the young trees with 1 pound of a nitrogen fertilizer. During the second year, add ¾ pound of nitrogen fertilizer once in the spring and once in the early summer. After the third year, add about 1 pound of actual nitrogen per year to the mature trees in the spring. To help make the tree hardier, do not fertilize it within 2 months of the first fall frost date or when the fruits are maturing. Be sure to prune the tree to an open center shape. In the summer of the first year, cut the vigorous shoots that form on the top of the tree by two or three buds. After about a month, check the tree. As soon as you have three wide-angled branches, spaced equally apart, cut back any other branches so that these three are the main branches. In the early summer of the second year, cut back the branches in the middle of the tree to short stubs and prune any shoots developing below the three main branches. After the third year, remove any shoots in the center of the tree to keep its shape. Be sure to prune the tree annually to encourage production. Pruning is usually done mid to late April. Pinching the trees in the summer is also helpful. Prune and fertilize to accomplish 10-18 inches of new growth each season. Thin the fruits so that they are 6 to 8 inches apart on the branch after the tree blooms (about 4 to 6 weeks). This ensures that the fruits will be larger. To help increase resistance to fruit diseases, be sure to prune the trees, thin the fruit, and pick the fruit when it is ripe.
PESTS/DISEASES Borers Aphids Japanese beetles Leaf hoppers Brown rot Powdery mildew Leaf curl Mosaic viruses
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
Dummer. ゛☀
BOTANICAL NAME: Citrus spp PLANT TYPE: Fruit SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun SOIL TYPE: Loamy SOIL PH: Slightly Acidic to Neutral Standard-size grapefruit and orange trees can grow 18 to 22 feet tall, whereas dwarf varieties only grow 8 to 12 feet tall. Most citrus varieties are self-fertile, so only one tree is needed for fruit production. On average, fruit bearing begins when the trees are between 3 and 6 years old; however, exact timing will depend on the type of citrus (lemons, oranges, grapefruit, etc.), the cultivar, your climate, the health of the plant and its care, and other factors. Flowering is not seasonal, but occurs during warm weather and regular rainfall. Flowers and fruits may coincide.
PLANTING Citrus trees should be planted in a sunny and wind-protected area. In the citrus belt (a loosely defined area stretching from southern California to Florida), trees can be planted at any time, however, spring is the best time for container-grown plants. Standard-size citrus trees should be spaced 12 to 25 feet apart and dwarf citrus trees should be set 6 to 10 feet apart. The exact distance depends on the variety. The bigger the fruit, the farther the distance. If the soil is not well-drained, plant the trees on a slight mound to prevent waterlogging. To plant citrus trees inside from seeds, remove the seeds from the desired fruit. Soak the seeds overnight in water and plant them ½ inch deep in moist potting soil. Cover the pot with a plastic bag or wrap and let it sit in a warm and sunny spot for a few weeks until the seeds start to grow. Then, remove the plastic but keep the pot near a warm and sunny window.
CARE A few weeks after planting, and for the first few years (before bearing age), feed the tree a balanced (such as 6-6-6) fertilizer. Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting. For newly bearing trees, provide nutrients to continue branch and leaf growth, but also to replace nutrients lost by fruit forming. A citrus blend is ideal. Check manufacturer’s directions, ask a garden nursery, or consult your local cooperative extension as to how often and how much fertilizer to apply during each year of a tree’s growth. Mulches are not recommended for citrus trees, but if trees are located in a cultivated plant bed where mulch is used, keep at least 12 inches of bare ground between the tree trunk and the mulch. Pre-emergent herbicides may be used to prevent weed seeds from germinating. Fruit thinning is unnecessary for citrus trees, as they typically experience something called the “June drop.” In late spring or early summer (May or June for most of the country), citrus trees naturally drop a number of their immature fruit.
PESTS/DISEASES Aphids Spider Mites Root and Crown Rots Fungal Leaf Spots Fruit Flies Tristeza Virus spread by Aphids
1
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
Dummer. ゛☀
BOTANICAL NAME: Vitis PLANT TYPE: Fruit SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun SOIL TYPE: Any SOIL PH: Slightly Acidic to Neutral Grape vines not only produce sweet and versatile fruits, they add an element of drama to a garden or landscape. They are vigorous growers, and with the proper pruning, they will produce fruit with ease and can last longer than 30 years. There are three different types of grapes: American (V. labrusca), European (V. viniferia), and North American native Muscadine (V. rotundifolia). American grapes are the most cold-hardy, while European grapes, usually more for wine than the table, do well in warm, dry, Mediterranean type zones. Hybrids are available. Thick skinned Muscadines thrive in the South. Make sure you purchase grape vines from a reputable nursery. Vigorous, 1-year-old plants are best. Smaller, sometimes weaker, 1-year-old plants are often held over by the nursery to grow another year and are then sold as 2-year-old stock. Obtain certified virus-free stock when possible.
PLANTING Plant dormant, bare-root grape vines in the early spring. Construct a trellis or arbor before planting. Grape vines will need to be trained to some sort of support to grow upward. This will also cut the risk of disease. Most grape varieties are self-fertile. To be sure, ask when you are buying vines if you will need more than one plant for pollination. Before planting grapevines, soak their roots in water for two or three hours. Select a site with full sun. If you don’t have a spot with full sun, make sure it at least gets morning sun. A small amount of afternoon shade won’t hurt. Your soil needs to be deep, well-drained, and loose. You also need good air circulation. Space vines 6 to 10 feet apart (16 feet for muscadines). For each vine, dig a planting hole 12 inches deep and 12 inches wide. Fill with 4 inches of topsoil. Trim off broken roots and set the vine into the hole slightly deeper than it grew in the nursery. Cover the roots with 6 inches of soil and tamp down. Fill with the remaining soil, but don’t tamp this down. Prune the top back to two or three buds at planting time. Water at time of planting.
CARE In the first couple of years, the vine should not be allowed to produce fruit. It needs to strengthen its root system before it can support the extra weight of fruit. Pruning is important. Not only would vines run rampant without control, but canes will only produce fruit once. Prune annually when vines are dormant, in March or April. This is before the buds start to swell, but when winter damage is apparent. Don’t be afraid to remove at least 90 percent of the previous season’s growth. This will ensure a higher quality product. Remember, the more you prune, the more grapes you will have. In the first year, cut back all buds except for 2 or 3. Then, select a couple of strong canes and cut back the rest. Make sure the remaining canes are fastened to the support. In the second year, prune back all canes. Leave a couple of buds on each of the arms. Remove flower clusters as they form. Do not fertilize in the first year unless you have problem soil. Fertilize lightly in the second year of growth. Use mulch to keep an even amount of moisture around the vines. A mesh net is useful in keeping birds away from budding fruit.
PESTS/DISEASES Aphids Japanese Beetles Powdery Mildew Black Rot
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
Dummer. ゛☀
BOTANICAL NAME: Ficus PLANT TYPE: Fruit SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun SOIL TYPE: Any BLOOM TIME: Spring Figs thrive in areas with long and hot summers, though they can also be grown in containers. Figs can be eaten fresh from the tree, preserved, or used in cooking.
PLANTING The common fig tree is the best choice to plant because its flowers are all female, meaning that they are self-pollinating and do not need to cross-pollinate with another tree to create fruit. For container fig trees, grow them in soil-based potting mix and add fine bark chips. Keep the tree in full or filtered light. Be sure to add a high-nitrogen fertilizer every 4 weeks and water the tree moderately. It is important to keep the tree moist during the winter. For outdoor fig trees, plant the tree in the spring in full or partial sun. Fig trees can grow in any type of soil as long as the soil is well-drained and contains plenty of organic material. For container-grown trees, remove the plant from its pot and remove any circling roots by laying the root ball on its side and using shears to cut through the roots. Dig a hole that is a few inches deeper and wider than the spread of the roots. Set the tree on top of a small mound of soil in the middle of the hole. Be sure to spread the roots away from the trunk without excessively bending them. Plant the tree 2 to 4 inches deeper than it was originally in the pot (check the color of the trunk to see the original soil line). Space the tree about 20 feet away from any buildings or other trees.
CARE Be sure to water the young fig trees regularly to help them become established. In areas with dry climates, water fig trees deeply at least once a week. Unless grown in containers, most fig trees do not require regular fertilization. However, if your fig tree is not growing much (less than 12 inches in one growing season), you can add ½ to 1 pound of nitrogen. Divide up the nitrogen into 3 to 4 feedings. Start applying the nitrogen in late winter and end in midsummer. You can also apply a layer of mulch around the tree to help prevent weeds and keep in moisture for the roots. Fig trees require little pruning. During the dormant season, be sure to remove all dead, diseased, or weak branches to encourage growth. If you have an abundant growth of figs, you can thin the fruit to encourage larger figs.
PESTS/DISEASES Nematodes Leaf spots Rust Thrips Twig dieback
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
Dummer. ゛☀
BOTANICAL NAME: Prunus avium (Sweet Cherries) Prunus cerasus (Sour Cherries) PLANT TYPE: Fruit SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun SOIL TYPE: Any SOIL PH: Slightly Acidic to Neutral Sweet cherries are the variety most often found in markets. They have a thick, rich, and almost plumb-like texture. Sweet cherries grow in hardiness zones 5 to 7; they are self-sterile and best for an orchard or a large garden. You’ll need at least two or three trees, as they’ll need to pollinate each other. However, a recent and exciting development in sweet cherries is the dwarf, self-pollinating cultivar, ‘Stella’. Sour cherries are not usually eaten raw, but are widely used for preserves and other cooking uses. Sour cherries are much smaller than sweet cherries and all varieties are self-fertile. They grow in zones 4 to 6. Cherry trees generally start bearing fruit in their fourth year; dwarf trees bear fruit a year earlier. One mature, standard-size tart or sweet cherry tree will produce 30 to 50 quarts of cherries each year; a dwarf tree, about 10 to 15 quarts.
PLANTING Plant cherries in the late fall or early spring (when the ground is soft and has a higher moisture content). For sweet cherries, make sure the different varieties will pollinate each other. Plant in a sunny site with good air circulation; avoid planting near trees or buildings that shade. Cherry trees need deep, well-drained soil. Space sweet cherries 35 to 40 feet apart; dwarfs, 5 to 10 feet apart. Space tart cherries 20 to 25 feet apart; dwarfs, 8 to 10 feet apart. Set trees on standard rootstocks with the graft union a few inches below the soil level. Set trees on dwarf rootstock with the graft union several inches above the soil level. When planting fan-trained trees, construct the necessary supports before planting. Plant fans only 12 to 15 feet apart. For bareroot trees, place the rootstock on a small mound of soil in the center of the planting hole, and spread the roots down and away, trying not to bend the roots. Backfiill with soil. For container-grown trees, first remove the rootball and on its side; cut through the roots with shears. Don’t cover the top of the root-ball.
CARE There is no difference in care between sour and sweet cherries. Apply mulch to retain moisture. Drape netting over trees to protect the fruit from birds. Water routinely in dry areas. Thinning the fruit is not necessary for cherry trees, as they typically thin naturally in early summer. Prune trees every year in late winter to encourage the growth of new fruiting wood. Don’t prune in the fall. Fertilize each spring until trees start to bear, then fertilize only after harvest each season.
PESTS/DISEASES Aphids Japanese beetles Caterpillars Brown Rot Black Knot Bacterial Canker (cut out any branches with signs of black knot or bacterial canker as soon as possible) Birds
0
0
文章
257 258 259 260 261 262 263 264 265 266 267 268 269 270 271 272
相关用户
茉莉花
茉莉花
来自： Faye
朝阳
绿萝
绿萝
来自： 采元气少女✨
长沙
茉莉花
茉莉花
来自： 小松树快乐
长沙
绿萝
绿萝
来自： 水中月
赣州市
茉莉花
茉莉花
来自： 艺源
广安市
芦荟
芦荟
来自： 采元气少女✨
长沙
茉莉花
茉莉花
来自： 阿罗
南昌
芦荟
芦荟
来自： Bailu_Yuan
北京
白掌
白掌
来自： 韩凯
武汉
绿萝
绿萝
来自： 阿罗
南昌
举报 反馈

您有什么意见或建议，欢迎给我们留言。

请输入内容
提交
取消
设置
VIP
退出登录
关闭
分享

分享好文，绿手指（GFinger）养花助手见证你的成长。

关闭
请前往电脑端操作

请前往电脑端操作

关闭
转发
插入话题
提醒好友
发布
/
提交成功 提交失败 最大图片质量 成功 警告 啊哦！ 出了点小问题 转发成功 举报 转发 显示更多 _zh 文章 求助 动态 刚刚 回复 邀你一起尬聊！ 表情 添加图片 评论 仅支持 .JPG .JPEG .PNG .GIF 图片尺寸不得小于300*300px 最少上传一张图片 请输入内容