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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
Dummer. ゛☀
BOTANICAL NAME: Veronica PLANT TYPE: Flower SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun SOIL TYPE: Loamy FLOWER COLOR: BluePinkPurpleWhite BLOOM TIME: SpringSummerFall SPECIAL FEATURES: Attracts BirdsAttracts Butterflies This attractive plant grows in clusters from 1 to 3 feet tall, and blooms from spring to autumn. There is also a bushy ground cover variety (Veronica prostrata), which features dense clusters of flowers and grows to only about 10 inches tall.
PLANTING Grow in moderately fertile, well-drained soil in full sun. Plant in the spring. (Veronica can be sowed by seed in containers in a cold frame in autumn, but most people start this perennial as a transplant from the nursery.) Loosen the soil and mix in compost. Dig a hole twice the diameter of the plant’s container. When placing the plant in the hole, ensure the top of the root ball is level with the soil surface. Water thoroughly.
CARE Water in the summer if rainfall is less than 1 inch per week. Stake tall varieties. Keep covered with a thin layer of compost, followed by a 2-inch layer of mulch to retain moisture. Deadhead to extend bloom time. After the first killing frost, cut back stems to an inch or two above the soil line. Divide perennials in autumn or spring every few years.
PESTS/DISEASES Scale insects Downy mildew Powdery mildew Rust Leaf smut Root rot
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
Dummer. ゛☀
BOTANICAL NAME: Tulipa PLANT TYPE: Flower SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun SOIL TYPE: Sandy FLOWER COLOR: GreenMulticolorOrangePinkPurpleRedWhiteYellow BLOOM TIME: Spring Long live the tulip! This brightly colored jewel of spring is a perennial flower that grows best in areas with cold winters and dry summers. There’s a tulip for every setting, from small “species” tulips in naturalized woodland areas to larger tulips that fit formal garden plantings from beds to borders. The upright flowers may be single or double, and vary in shape from simple cups, bowls, and goblets to more complex forms. Height ranges from 6 inches to 2 feet. By planting varieties with different bloom times, you can have tulips blooming from early to late spring. Some types are good for forcing into bloom indoors. Most are excellent for cut flowers, too. Although tulips are a perennial, many gardeners treat them as annuals, planting new bulbs every autumn. The North American climate and soil can’t replicate the ancient Anatolian and southern Russian conditions of their birth. Gardeners in our western mountain regions come closest to this climate.
PLANTING Plant tulip bulbs in the fall, 6 to 8 weeks before a hard frost is expected and when soils are below 60 degrees F. (See our frost dates.) This is usually during September and October in the north, and October and November in the south. To find the best dates, see our fall bulb planting chart. Nature never intended for bulbs to loll about above ground, so don’t delay planting the bulbs after purchase. In southern climates with mild winters, you need to buy pre-chilled bulbs or chill them yourself in the refrigerator for about 12 weeks before planting. When selecting a site: Tulips prefer a site with full or afternoon sun. In Zones 7 and 8, choose a shady site or one with morning sun only. Soil must be well-draining, neutral to slightly acidic, fertile, and dry or sandy. All tulips dislike areas with excessive moisture. Tall varieties should be sheltered from strong winds. Prepare the garden bed by using a garden fork or tiller to loosen the soil to a depth of 12 to 15 inches, then mix in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost. You’ll want to space bulbs 4 to 6 inches apart, so choose an appropriate plot size. Plant bulbs deep—at least 8 inches, measuring from the base of the bulb. And that means digging even deeper, to loosen the soil and allow for drainage, or creating raised beds. Remember, the bigger the bulb, the deeper the hole it needs. Set the bulb in the hole with the pointy end up. Cover with soil and press soil firmly. Water bulbs right after planting. Although they can’t bear wet feet, bulbs need water to trigger growth. To deter mice and moles—if they have been a problem—put holly or any other thorny leaves in the planting holes. Some gardeners use kitty litter or crushed gravel. If ravenous voles and rodents are a real problem, you may need to take stronger measures, such as planting bulbs in a buried wire cages. If you’re planning to raise perennial tulips, feed them when you plant them in the fall. Bulbs are their own complete storage system and contain all of the nutrients they need for one year. Use organic material, compost, or a balanced time-release bulb food. Don’t lose hope if you’re planting your tulips late in the season—just use these tips.
CARE Water tulips during dry spells in the fall; otherwise, do not water. Rainy summers, irrigation systems, and wet soil are death to tulips. Never deliberately water a bulb bed. Wet soil leads to fungus and disease and can rot bulbs. Add shredded pine bark, sand, or anything to foster swift drainage. Compost annually to provide nutrients needed for future blooms. Deadhead tulips after flowering. Allow the foliage to yellow for about 6 weeks after flowering before removing it. Large varieties may need replanting every few years; small types usually multiply and spread on their own.
PESTS/DISEASES Gray mold Slugs Snails Aphids Nematodes Bulb rot Squirrels, rabbits, mice, and voles are especially fond of tulip bulbs.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
Dummer. ゛☀
BOTANICAL NAME: Lathyrus odoratus PLANT TYPE: Flower SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun SOIL TYPE: Loamy SOIL PH: Alkaline/Basic FLOWER COLOR: BluePinkPurpleRedWhiteYellow BLOOM TIME: SummerFall With their fragile, seductive fragrance, Sweet peas make great flowers for gardens and bouquets. These pea-like flowering annuals grow in many lovely colors and are suitable for a border, a woodland garden, and a trellis or arch. Cultivated sweet peas go back at least 300 years. In their native Sicily, these ornamental peas have weak stems and an intense orange-jasmine-honey scent. Modern hybrids are stronger-stalked and have larger blooms. Growing sweet peas is akin to making a pie crust. Some people have the knack, others don’t. Sweet peas are quite hardy, growing from large, easy-to-handle, pea-like seeds. Still, they’re a bit tricky because they are slow to germinate. It’s worth experimenting with different seeds each year.
PLANTING Early sowing is one of the secrets of sweet peas. In Zone 7 or colder, plant them in very late winter or early spring as soon as the soil is dry enough to work. (Do not wait until last frost.) In the coldest parts of the country, get a jump on the season by starting sweet peas indoors in six-packs or Jiffy pots. Harden seedlings off for at least a week, and then set them out into the garden as soon as the soil can be worked. If you garden in mild winter climates (Zones 8, 9, or 10), plant sweet peas in the late fall so they can develop and bloom in late winter and early spring. Sweet peas are happiest with their heads in the sun and their roots deep in cool, moist soil. When possible, plant low-growing annuals in front of them to shade their roots. Choose a well-drained site. Alkaline soil is best; sprinkle some powdered lime on the surface if your soil tends to be acidic. Prepare a rich soil by mixing in generous amounts of compost and well-rotted manure to a depth of 2 feet. (Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.) Prior to planting, you’re going to want to dig a nice deep trench of about 4 inches in depth. After you dig the trench, make holes with a pencil, drop in the seeds, and press down on the soil to firm it and shut out any light. Before planting, soak the seeds in water for 24 hours. Then nick the seeds with a nail file before planting to speed sprouting. You do not need to soak seeds in a temperate climate.
CARE Once planted, germination can take 7 to 15 days, depending on the soil temperature. As seedlings emerge and grow, gradually fill in the trench. Hoe more soil up to them. Keep soil moist. Summer rain may be ample. If you put your finger into the soil bed to its first joint and the soil is dry: water them at the soil level and do so in the morning; sweet peas can suffer from bud drop. If you use plenty of aged manure and compost when planting, you do not need to fertilize. If you do want to add nourishment, use high potash feeds, as nitrogen feeds encourage too much top growth. Sweet peas prefer cool days and nights and will start to fade when temperatures go above 65°F. Except for the bush types, sweet peas are real climbers. Give them at least 6 feet of good support. Some varieties may climb to 9 or 10 feet. If you don’t have a fence or trellis, provide brush or chicken wire or bushy, stubbly twigs that they can cling to. When plants become established, mulch well to keep the soil cool and moist. If you mulch, you may not need to water your sweet peas unless the soil gets dry. To encourage bushy growth, pinch off the tops when plants are 6 inches tall—not before or you’ll encourage premature side-shoot development. Pick the flowers for bouquets often and the plant will put energy into more blooms instead of going to seed. Harvest the stems when the lowest blossom is just beginning to open.
PESTS/DISEASES Slugs and snails may attack young growth. Pythium root rot, powdery mildew, rust, gray mold, and various leaf spots are common.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
Dummer. ゛☀
BOTANICAL NAME: Helianthus PLANT TYPE: Flower SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun SOIL TYPE: LoamySandy SOIL PH: Alkaline/BasicNeutral FLOWER COLOR: Yellow BLOOM TIME: Summer SPECIAL FEATURES: Attracts BirdsAttracts Butterflies An annual plant, sunflowers have big, daisy-like flower faces of bright yellow petals (and occasionally red) and brown centers that ripen into heavy heads filled with seeds. Tall and coarse, the plants have creeping or tuberous roots and large, bristly leaves. Some sunflowers grow to over 16 feet in height, though there are also varieties today that have been developed for small spaces and containers. Most sunflowers are remarkably tough and easy to grow as long as the soil is not waterlogged. Most are heat- and drought-tolerant. They make excellent cut flowers and many are attractive to bees and birds.
PLANTING Sunflowers grow best in locations with direct sun (6 to 8 hours per day); they prefer long, hot summers to flower well. Sunflowers have long tap roots which need to stretch out so the plants prefer well-dug, loose, well-draining soil; in preparing a bed, dig down 2 feet in depth and about 3 feet across to ensure the soil isn’t too compact. Find a well-drained location, and prepare your soil by digging an area of about 2-3 feet in circumference to a depth of about 2 feet. Though they’re not too fussy, sunflowers thrive in slightly acidic to somewhat alkaline (pH 6.0 to 7.5). Sunflowers are heavy feeders so the soil needs to be nutrient-rich with organic matter or composted (aged) manure. Or, work in a slow release granular fertilizer 8 inches deep into your soil. If possible, put seeds in a spot that is sheltered from strong winds, perhaps along a fence or near a building. Before planting, decide whether or not you want to grow a fun sunflower tower.
PLANTING SUNFLOWER SEEDS It’s best to sow sunflower seeds directly into the soil after the danger of spring frost is past. Ideally, the soil temperature has reached 55 to 60 degrees F. Give plants plenty of room, especially for low-growing varieties that will branch out. Make rows about 30 inches apart. (For very small varieties, plant closer together.) Plant the large seeds no more than 1 inch deep about 6 inches apart after it has thoroughly warmed, from mid-April to late May. You can plant multiple seeds and thin them to the strongest contenders when the plants are six inches tall. A light application of fertilizer mixed in at planting time will encourage strong root growth to protect them from blowing over in the wind. Experiment with plantings staggered over 5 to 6 weeks to keep enjoying continuous blooms. If you see birds scratching around for the seeds, spread netting over the planted area until seeds germinate. See more ways to keep birds away from your garden.
CARE While the plant is small, water around the root zone, about 3 to 4 in. from the plant. To protect the plant, it may help to put snail or slug bait around the stem. Once the plant is established, water deeply though infrequently to encourage deep rooting. Unless the weather is exceptionally wet or dry, water once a week with several gallons of water. Feed plants only sparingly; overfertilization can cause stems to break in the fall. You can add diluted fertilizer into the water, though avoid getting the fertilizer near the plant’s base; it may help to build a moat in a circle around the plant about 18 inches out. Tall species and cultivars require support. Bamboo stakes are a good choice for any plant that has a strong, single stem and needs support for a short period of time. PESTS/DISEASES Birds and squirrels will show interest in the seeds. If you plan to use the seeds, deter critters with barrier devices. As seed heads mature and flowers droop, you can cover each one with white polyspun garden fleece. If you have deer, keep them at bay with a tall wire barrier. Sunflowers are relatively insect-free. A small gray moth sometimes lays its eggs in the blossoms. Pick the worms from the plants. Downy mildew, rust, and powdery mildew can also affect the plants. If fungal diseases are spotted early, spray with a general garden fungicide
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
Dummer. ゛☀
BOTANICAL NAME: Leucanthemum x superbum PLANT TYPE: Flower SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun SOIL TYPE: Any FLOWER COLOR: White BLOOM TIME: SummerFall SPECIAL FEATURES: Attracts Butterflies The cheerful shasta daisy is a classic perennial. It looks similar to the familiar roadside daisy but has larger and more robust blooms. Here’s how to grow shasta daisies in your garden! Shasta daisies tend to bloom in clumps from 2 to 3 feet tall and 1 to 2 feet wide. They bear all-white daisy petals, yellow disk florets, and contrasting glossy, dark green leaves. Like clockwork, shasta daisies return every spring or early summer and bloom until early fall. They are never invasive (like some consider roadside daisies to be) and they are terrific for cutting.
PLANTING Grow in full sun. Soil should be moderately fertile, not overly rich, and moist but well-drained. Sow seeds in containers in a cold frame in autumn or spring. Divide perennials in early spring or late summer. If you seed directly, expect blooms the following spring after one season’s growth. If purchasing a plant in a container, plant in spring. Loosen the soil to a depth of 12 to 15 inches, then mix in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost. Space plants 1 to 2 feet apart. Dig a hole twice the diameter of the container. When placing plant in the hole, make sure the top of the root ball is level with the soil surface. Fill around the root ball and firm the soil. Water thoroughly. Many of the taller plants need support/staking.
CARE Water during the summer only if rainfall is less than 1 inch per week. After the first killing frost, cut stems back to an inch or two above the soil line. (See local frost dates.) Every spring, apply some compost and mulch to help control weeds. Every 3 to 4 years, divide perennials again in early spring or late summer.
PESTS/DISEASES Aphids, slugs, earwigs, chrysanthemum nematode, and leaf spots may be troublesome. However, daisies are generally low maintenance.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
Dummer. ゛☀
BOTANICAL NAME: Sedum PLANT TYPE: Flower SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun SOIL TYPE: LoamySandy FLOWER COLOR: PinkRedWhiteYellow BLOOM TIME: SpringSummer SPECIAL FEATURES: Attracts Butterflies There are many varieties of sedum plants, which makes them suitable for almost all types of garden designs. Use low–growing sedum varieties as ground covers and in rock gardens, and taller varieties for back borders. Sedums are hardy, easy to care for, and make great cut flowers, too.img src="1000305683_1000013406_1501995887.jpg"> PLANTING Plant sedum seeds in early spring in well-drained, average to rich soil. (Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.) Space plants between 6 inches and 2 feet apart, depending on the variety. Low-growing and vigorous species will tolerate partial shade, but most sedum do best in full sun. You can also plant divisions or cuttings instead of seeds. For divisions: Dig a hole so that the top of the root ball is level with the surface, then place the plant in the hole and fill it in. For cuttings: Simply place the cut end into soil and the cutting should have no trouble rooting under proper lighting and watering conditions.
CARE Once established, sedum plants require little care. Check your plants regularly to make sure they are not too dry and water when needed. After flowering, cut back the plants to maintain their shape or contain them in one area. Remember to divide your plants in the spring or fall to control their spread. Throughout the summer, divisions and cuttings root readily.
PESTS/DISEASES Mealybugs Scale insects Slugs Snails
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
Dummer. ゛☀
BOTANICAL NAME: Rosa PLANT TYPE: Flower SOIL TYPE: Loamy BLOOM TIME: SpringSummerFall Rose bushes come in a variety of forms, from climbing roses to miniature rose plants, blooming mainly in early summer and fall.. One way to group roses into classes is according to their date of introduction: Old roses—also called “old-fashioned roses” and “heirloom roses”—are those introduced prior to 1867. These are the lush, invariably fragrant roses found in old masters’ paintings. There are hundreds of old rose varieties—whose hardiness varies—providing choices for both warm and mild climates. Modern hybrid roses are sturdy, long-blooming, extremely hardy and disease-resistant, and bred for color, shape, size, and fragrance. Species, or wild, are those that have been growing wild for many thousands of years. These wild roses have been adapted to modern gardens and usually bloom in the spring.
PLANTING Preparing the Soil Roses prefer a near-neutral pH range of 5.5–7.0. A pH of 6.5 is just about right for most home gardens (slightly acidic to neutral). An accurate soil test will tell you where your pH currently stands. Acidic (sour) soil is counteracted by applying finely ground limestone, and alkaline (sweet) soil is treated with ground sulfur. Before you plant, be sure that you choose varieties proven in your climate. When in doubt, All-America Rose Selections winners are good bets. Or check with your local nursery. Ordering Plants If you order roses from a mail-order company, order early, in January or February (March at the latest). They are usually shipped in the spring as bare roots when plants are fully dormant, well before they have leafed out. They’ll look like a bundle of sticks on arrival. Note that they are not dead—simply dormant. If you are buying container-grown roses (vs. bare-root roses), plant them by May or early June for best results. Planting Tips Plant roses where they will receive a minimum of 5 to 6 hours of full sun per day. Roses grown in weak sun may not die at once, but they weaken gradually. Give them plenty of organic matter when planting and don’t crowd them. Wear sturdy gloves to protect your hands from prickly thorns. Have a hose or bucket of water and all your planting tools nearby. Keep your bare-root rose in water until you are ready to place it in the ground. Roses can be cut back and moved in either spring or fall, but not in midsummer, as they might suffer and die in the heat. Large rose canes can be cut back by as much as two thirds, and smaller ones to within 6 to 12 inches of the ground. When you transplant your roses, be sure to dig a much bigger hole than you think you need (for most types, the planting hole should be about 15 to 18 inches wide) and add plenty of organic matter such as compost or aged manure. Some old-timers recommend placing a 4-inch square of gypsum wallboard and a 16-penny nail in the hole to provide calcium and iron, both appreciated by roses.
CARE Watering Roses Diligently water your roses. Soak the entire root zone at least twice a week in dry summer weather. Avoid frequent shallow sprinklings, which won’t reach the deeper roots and may encourage fungus. Roses do best with 90 inches of rain per year, so unless you live in a rain forest, water regularly. Roses love water—but don’t drown them. That is, they don’t like to sit in water, and they’ll die if the soil is too wet in winter. The ideal soil is rich and loose, with good drainage. One of the worst mistakes you can make is to not provide adequate drainage. Use mulch. To help conserve water, reduce stress, and encourage healthy growth, apply a 2- to 4-inch layer of chopped and shredded leaves, grass clippings, or shredded bark around the base of your roses. Allow about an inch of space between the mulch and the base stem of the plant. Feeding Roses Feed roses on a regular basis before and throughout the blooming cycle (avoid chemical fertilizers and pesticides if you’re harvesting for the kitchen). Once a month between April and July, apply a balanced granular fertilizer (5-10-5 or 5-10-10). Allow ¾ to 1 cup for each bush, and sprinkle it around the drip line, not against the stem. See our fertilizer guide for more information. In May and June, scratch in an additional tablespoon of Epsom salts along with your fertilizer; the magnesium sulfate will encourage new growth from the bottom of the bush. Pruning Roses Prune roses every spring and destroy all old or diseased plant material. Wear elbow-length gloves that are thick enough to protect your hands from thorns or a clumsy slip, but flexible enough to allow you to hold your tools. Always wear safety goggles; branches can whip back when released. Start with pruning shears for smaller growth. Use loppers, which look like giant, long-handle shears, for growth that is more than half an inch thick. A small pruning saw is handy, as it cuts on both the push and the pull. Deadhead religiously and keep beds clean. Every leaf has a growth bud, so removing old flower blossoms encourages the plant to make more flowers instead of using the energy to make seeds. Clean away from around the base of the rosebushes any trimmed debris that can harbor disease and insects. Late in the season, stop deadheading rugosas so that hips will form on the plants; these can be harvested and dried on screens, away from sunlight, then stored in an airtight container. Stop deadheading all your rose plants 3 to 4 weeks before the first hard frost so as not to encourage new growth at a time when new shoots may be damaged by the cold. Winterizing Roses Do not prune roses in the fall. Simply cut off any dead or diseased canes. Stop fertilizing 6 weeks before the first frost but continue watering during dry autumn weather to help keep plants fortified during the dry winter. Mound, mulch, or add compost after a few frosts but before the ground freezes. Where temperatures stay below freezing during winter, enclose the plant with a sturdy mesh cylinder, filling the enclosure with compost, mulch, dry wood chips, pine needles, or chopped leaves. Don’t use heavy, wet, maple leaves for mulch. Mulch instead with oak leaves, pine needles, compost, or straw. Clean up the rose beds to prevent overwintering of diseases. One last spray for fungus with a dormant spray is a good idea.
PESTS/DISEASES Good gardening practices such as removing dead leaves and canes will help reduce pests. Find out which pests are most prevalent in your area by checking with your local nursery. Here are some of the more common problems: Japanese Beetles Aphids: To keep aphids away from roses, plant garlic and mint around the roses. Black Spot: Rose plant leaves with black spots that eventually turn yellow have black spot, often caused by water splashing on leaves, especially in rainy weather. Leaves may require a protective fungicide coating, which would start in the summer before leaf spots started until first frost. Thoroughly clean up debris in the fall, and prune out all diseased canes. Powdery Mildew: If leaves, buds, and stems are covered with a white powdery coating, this is a mildew disease; mildew develops rapidly during warm, humid weather. During new growth, prevent mildew by spraying or dusting canes and leaf surfaces with fungicide. Prevent mildew by pruning out all dead or diseased canes in the spring. Destroy all diseased parts during the growing season. Botrytis Blight: If the rose’s flower buds droop, stay closed, or turn brown, it has this grey fungus. Prune off all infected blossoms and remove any dead material. Fungicide application may be necessary. Spider Mites Thrips Rust Stem Borers Deer: Roses are a delectable tidbit, so try planting lavender near your roses. Not only will you have the makings of a nice potpourri, but the scent of lavender will discourage browsers. You can also spread human or dog hair around the garden area or check our list of deer-resistant plants to protect your roses. In general, avoid rose issues by buying disease-resistant varieties and cleaning up debris, weeds, fallen leaves and any diseased plant material as soon as possible.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
Dummer. ゛☀
BOTANICAL NAME: Phlox PLANT TYPE: Flower SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun SOIL TYPE: Loamy FLOWER COLOR: BluePinkRedWhite BLOOM TIME: SpringSummer SPECIAL FEATURES: Attracts BirdsAttracts Butterflies Phlox are perennials and a favorite choice among wildflowers. These plants sport many star-shaped, colorful flowers when in bloom. Because there are so many varieties, you can find a type of phlox for almost any garden. Phlox make great ground cover, and you can compliment them with other varieties of ground cover. They are easy to care for and low maintenance. Add some phlox to any bouquet for some nice fragrance, too.
PLANTING Use a garden fork or tiller to prepare your garden bed. Loosen the soil to about 12 to 15 inches deep, then mix in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost. It is easier to grow phlox from cuttings/transplants than seeds. Plant phlox in the spring and space the plants 1 to 2 feet apart. If you are moving a plant from a pot, dig a hole about twice the size of the pot’s diameter and place the plant so that the top of the root ball is even with the soil’s surface. Fill in around the root ball and remember to water it thoroughly. There are three different categories for growth requirements: Border phlox (like Carolina phlox, Meadow phlox, and Garden phlox) like moist, well-drained, and average to rich soil, and full to partial sun. Low, mounding phlox (like Sand phlox and Chattahoochee) like average, well-drained, sandy or loamy soil, and full sun. Woodland species (like Blue phlox and Creeping phlox) like evenly moist, humus-rich soil, and full to partial sun.
CARE If you receive less than 1 inch of rain a week, remember to regularly water your plants throughout the summer. Each spring, put a thin layer of compost and a 2-inch layer of mulch around the plants to help keep the soil moist and control weeds. Remember to remove the dead/faded flowers so that your plants can rebloom. If you have tall phlox, cut the stems back to about 1 to 2 inches above the soil after the first killing frost. (See local frost dates.) Divide tall garden phlox every 2 to 3 years to ensure healthy and disease-free plants.
PESTS/DISEASES Powdery mildew Stem canker Rust Southern blight Stem nematodes Leaf spots Leaf miners Caterpillars
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
Dummer. ゛☀
BOTANICAL NAME: Petunia PLANT TYPE: Flower FLOWER COLOR: PinkPurpleRedWhiteYellow BLOOM TIME: SpringSummerFall Petunias are divided into two different groups: Grandiflora petunias have very large flowers and are best grown in containers or hanging baskets (because they are more susceptible to rain damage). Multiflora petunias have smaller, but more abundant flowers and are ideal for summer bedding or in a mixed border (because they are more tolerant to wet weather).
PLANTING You can grow petunias from seeds, but it is easier to grow them from transplants. If you are going to grow from seeds, start them indoors 10 to 12 weeks before you want to set them outside. Petunia seeds are very small and needs lots of light in order to germinate. Remember to water them. When the plants have three leaves, you can plant them outside. It’s best to buy transplants and plant them in light, well-drained soil in full sun after the last spring frost. (See your local frost dates.) Petunias can grow in partial shade, but they will have fewer flowers. It’s better if the plants have shelter from the wind. Space the plants about 1 foot apart. If you’re planting petunias in containers, use a soil-less mix.
CARE Petunias are tolerant of heat so you don’t have to water them regularly. A thorough watering once a week should be sufficient (unless there are prolonged periods of drought in your area). The spreading types and those in containers require more frequent watering though. Fertilize your plants monthly to ensure good growth. Double-flowered cultivars like a biweekly dose of fertilizer. Remove faded/dead flowers to prolong blooming.
PESTS/DISEASES Aphids Caterpillars Leaf miners Gray mold Bacterial soft rot Leaf spots Viruses
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
Dummer. ゛☀
BOTANICAL NAME: Paeonia PLANT TYPE: Flower SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun SOIL TYPE: Loamy SOIL PH: Neutral FLOWER COLOR: PinkRedWhiteYellow BLOOM TIME: Spring Peony flowers are perennials that come back every spring to take your breath away. The plants may live longer than you do—some have been known to thrive for 100 years. Peony plants require little maintenance as long as they are planted properly and establish themselves; they do not respond well to transplanting. They’re hardy to Zone 3 and grow well as far south as Zones 7 and 8. In most of the country, the rules for success are simply full sun and well-drained soil. Peonies even relish cold winters, because they need chilling for bud formation. Peonies make fine sentinels lining walkways and a lovely low hedge. After its stunning bloom, the peony’s bushy clump of handsome glossy green leaves lasts all summer, and then turns purplish or gold in the fall, as stately and dignified as any shrub. In mixed borders, peonies bloom with columbines, baptisias, and veronicas, and combine well with irises and roses. Plant white peonies with yellow irises and a froth of forget-me-nots; set off pink peonies with blue Nepeta or violets.
PLANTING When to Plant Peonies Plant peonies in the fall: in late September and October in most of the country, and even later in the South. (If you must move an established plant, this is the time.) Peonies should be settled into place before the first hard frost. Spring-planted peonies just don’t do as well, experts agree; they generally lag about a year behind those planted in the fall. How to Plant Peonies Grow peonies in deep, fertile, humus-rich, moist soil that drains well. Soil pH should be neutral. The soil will benefit from the addition of organic material in the planting hole. If the soil is heavy or very sandy, enrich it with compost. Incorporate about 1 cup of bonemeal into the soil. Tamp soil firmly. Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting. Peonies are not fussy, but choose your location wisely, as they resent disturbance. Provide shelter from strong winds. Plant away from trees or shrubs as peonies don’t like to compete for food and moisture. Space them three to four feet apart for good air circulation. Peonies like full sun, and though they can manage with half a day, they bloom best in a sunny spot. Peonies are usually sold as bare-root tubers with three to five eyes, divisions of a three- or four-year-old plant. Dig a generous-sized hole, about two feet deep and two feet across in well-drained soil in a sunny spot. If the soil is heavy or very sandy, enrich it with compost. Incorporate about one cup of bonemeal into the soil. Tamp it firmly. Set the root so the eyes face upward on top of the firmed soil, placing the root just 2 inches below the soil surface. (In southern states, choose early-blooming varieties, plant them about an inch deep, and provide some shade.) Don’t plant too deep! In most of the country, the peony’s eyes (buds) should be no deeper than 1-½ to 2 inches below the soil line. Then, backfill the hole, taking care that the soil doesn’t settle and bury the root deeper than 2 inches. Water thoroughly.
CARE Like children, young peonies take time to develop. They usually need a few years to establish themselves, bloom, and grow. Peonies thrive on benign neglect. Unlike most perennials, they don’t need to be dug and divided. Spare the fertilizer. Work the soil well before you plant, mixing in a little fertilizer, and that should be enough. If your soil is poor, the time to apply fertilizer (bonemeal, compost, or well-rotted manure) is early summer, after the peonies have bloomed and you have deadheaded. Don’t fertilize more than every few years. Help the stems. If peonies have any structural weakness, it is their stems, which are sometimes not strong enough to support their gigantic blossoms. Consider three-legged metal peony rings that allow the plant to grow through the center of the rings. Deadhead peony blossoms as soon as they begin to fade, cutting to a strong leaf so that the stem doesn’t stick out of the foliage. Cut the foliage to the ground in the fall to avoid any overwintering disease. Don’t smother peonies with mulch. Where cold temperatures are severe, for the first winter after planting you can mulch VERY loosely with pine needles or shredded bark. Remove mulch in the spring.
PESTS/DISEASES Peonies are generally very hardy. They are susceptible to Verticillium wilt, ringspot virus, tip blight, stem rot, Botrytis blight, leaf blotch, Japanese beetle, and nematodes. Many gardeners wonder why so many ants crawl on the peony buds. They are eating nectar in exchange for attacking bud-eating pests. Never spray the ants; they’re helping you nurture peonies to bloom! Luckily, peonies are also one of many deer-resistant plants you can grow in your garden.
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