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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月04日
Dummer. ゛☀
Haworthia are delightful little succulents that form very attractive and singular small houseplants. Generally easy to grow, the same best practices that yield healthy aloe and echeveria plants will also produce beautiful Haworthia. In terms of appeal, these small, low growing plants form rosettes of fleshy green leaves that are generously covered with white, pearly warts or bands, giving them a distinctive appearance. Just like other succulents, these plants appreciate bright light, adequate moisture in the summer, and relatively drier conditions in the winter. Don't overwater, but don’t also let them dry out too much.
Growing Conditions Light: Bright light, but not direct sunlight. These grow in similar conditions to other succulents. White or yellow leaves usually signify too much sun.​ Water: Water evenly and generously in the summer, letting the soil media dry out between waterings. In the winter, reduce watering to every other month. Never allow water to collect in the rosette.​ Temperature: Warmer summers but cool in the winter (down to 50 degrees F).​ Soil: Use a cactus mix or very fast-draining potting soil mixed with sand.​ Fertilizer: Fertilize during the summer growing season with a cactus fertilizer. Don't feed during the winter. Propagation Haworthia can be propagated at repotting time using offsets from the mother plant. When taking offsets, use a sharp knife or snippers and cut as close to the mother stem as possible to including as many roots as possible, then allow the offset to dry briefly before repotting it (similar to cuttings from other succulents). Pot the offsets in a small pot, using the same soil as the mother plant, put it a warm, bright spot, and make sure to adequately water. Repotting Haworthia are small (usually remaining between 3" and 5" in height) and relatively slow-growing. They are often grown in small clusters in wide, shallow dishes. Over time, clusters will naturally enlarge as the mother plant sends off small plantlets. When the cluster has outgrown its dish, repot in the spring or early summer into a new wide and shallow dish with fresh potting soil. This is also the time to take offsets for propagation.
Varieties There are about 80 species of Haworthia, but their classification can be complex. The main difference between the common species is the size of the leaves and the orientation of the white markings on the leaves. H. margaritifera has warty white projections on the leaves, while H. fasciata features horizontal white stripes and is sometimes called the zebra plant. Some of the species, such as H. bolusii have "tufted" edges to the leaves, while H. attenuata features long, pointed green leaves. In general, the best advice is to buy the most attractive variety based on leaf form and markings—they all have similar cultural requirements.
Grower's Tips Haworthia are not considered difficult houseplants to grow—if you can keep a pot of aloe alive on a windowsill, chances are you can do the same with a dish of Haworthia. As with all succulents, the most dangerous situation is too much water—they should never be allowed to sit in water under any circumstances. At the same time, these decorative little plants can be grown in interesting containers such as tea cups and even miniature baby shoes. If you're given a Haworthia in such a container, make sure the container had adequate drainage. If it doesn't, it might be a good idea to pop the plant out of its container and add a layer of gravel to the bottom to reduce the wicking action of the soil above. Finally, look out for sunburned spots on your plants.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月04日
Dummer. ゛☀
Sempervivum, also known as “houseleeks” or “hen and chick” plants, are among the most popular succulents. They are exceptionally hardy plants and seem to thrive in cold and hot, low light or strong light. They are closely related to echeveria, kalanchoe, and crassula, which all belong to the Crassulaceae family. There is a very wide variety of sempervivum, and they are easily pressed into service as beautiful mixed-dish gardens.
Growing Conditions Light: Full sun. Perfect for a sunny window. Water: Water during the summer and spring, making sure drainage is immaculate. Reduce water in the winter to monthly. Temperature: Prefers average summer temps (65ºF - 70ºF). In winter, some varieties can withstand temperatures down to freezing. Soil: A well-drained succulent mix, with an ideal pH around 6.0 (slightly acidic). Fertilizer: Feed with a controlled-release fertilizer in the beginning of the season or weekly with a weak liquid solution. Use a balanced 20-20-20 fertilizer at 1/4 strength on mature plants, and a fertilizer with less nitrogen on young plants. Propagation Sempervivum earned their popular name “hen and chicks” from their growth habit. The mother plant, or hen, sends off numerous offsets, which will cluster around her base like chicks. These offsets can be easily repotted, or the plants can be left to form a clumping mat.
Repotting Repot as needed, preferably during the warm season. To repot a succulent, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the pot. Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide. Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot. Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot.
Varieties There are many hybrids and species of sempervivum, and they all feature similar growth habits. The most popular in the garden trade is the S. tectorum, which is a very attractive plant that grows in tight rosettes of plump leaves with red tips. Another sempervivum, the S. arachnoideum, appears to be coated in a fine web of hairs. Grower's Tips Sempervivum are not difficult to grow, provided they are not waterlogged and killed from excess watering. They can be easily grown outdoors and in containers, and they earned the name “houseleeks” from their tendency to root on the roofs of houses. After the mother plant flowers, it will naturally die, but by this time, the plant has likely produced many offsets that will continue to grow. These are excellent for cold windows.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月04日
Dummer. ゛☀
Echeveria are very popular succulents that grow in attractive rosettes with beautiful leaves in a variety of colors and sometimes stunning flowers. These plants have been extensively hybridized, so in addition to the main species, there are many varieties that have been specially bred for interesting leaf form and color. Most Echeveria will remain fairly small (a few inches to a foot across), but some species will grow to small shrub-like plants of 2 feet. Members of the Crassulaceae family, their care is similar to sedum and kalanchoe succulents.
Growing Conditions Light: Full sun. Perfect for a sunny window.​ Water: Water during the summer and spring, making sure drainage is immaculate. Reduce water in the winter to monthly.​ Temperature: Prefers average summer temps (65 degrees F - 70 degrees F). In winter, cool to 50 degrees F.​ Soil: A well-drained succulent mix, with an ideal pH around 6.0 (slightly acidic).​ Fertilizer: Feed with a controlled-release fertilizer in the beginning of the season or weekly with a weak liquid solution. Use a balanced 20-20-20 fertilizer at 1/4 strength on mature plants, and a fertilizer with less nitrogen on young plants. Propagation Most Echeveria can be easily propagated from leaf cuttings, although a few are better from seeds or stem cuttings. To propagate a leaf cutting, place the individual leaf in a succulent or cacti mix and cover the dish until the new plant sprouts.
Repotting Repot as needed, preferably during the warm season. To repot a succulent, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the pot. Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide. Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot. Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot. Varieties There are many popular Echeveria, both species and hybrids. In nature, Echeveria are native to Mexico, the United States, and down into South America. Some of the more beautiful Echeveria include the blue Echeveria (E. glauca and E. laui), firecracker plant (E. setosa), painted lady (E. derenbergii), and E. agavoides.
Grower's Tips Most of the common Echeveria species are not complicated succulents to grow, provided you follow a few basic rules. First, be careful never to let water sit in the rosette as it can cause rot or fungal diseases that will kill the plant. Additionally, remove dead leaves from the bottom of the plant as it grows. These dead leaves provide a haven for pests, and Echeveria are susceptible to mealy bugs. As with all succulents, careful watering habits and plenty of light will help ensure success.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月04日
Dummer. ゛☀
Succulents are booming in popularity for two simple reasons: they are beautiful and nearly indestructible. Technically, a succulent is any plant with thick, fleshy (succulent) water storage organs. Succulents store water in their leaves, their stems or their roots. These plants have adapted to survive arid conditions throughout the world, from Africa to the deserts of North America. Fortunately for us, this adaptive mechanism has resulted in an incredible variety of interesting leaf forms and plant shapes, including paddle leaves, tight rosettes, and bushy or trailing columns of teardrop leaves.
As a group, succulents include some of the most well-known plants, such as the aloe and agave, and many almost unknown plants. Cacti are a unique subset of the succulent group. Succulents make excellent display plants in dish gardens. The Rules for Growing Succulent Houseplants No matter what kind of succulent you're growing, the rules are pretty similar between the different species. Here are the general rules for growing top-quality succulents: Southern Light Succulents prefer bright light, such as found on a south-facing window. Watch the leaves for indications that the light level is correct. Some species will scorch if suddenly exposed to direct sunlight. The leaves will turn brown or white as the plant bleaches out and the soft tissues are destroyed. Alternatively, an underlit succulent will begin to stretch, with an elongated stem and widely spaced leaves. This condition is known as etoliation.
The solution is to provide better light and prune the plant back to its original shape. Many kinds of succulents will thrive outdoors in the summer. Temperature Succulents are much more cold-tolerant than many people assume. As in the desert, where there is often a marked contrast between night and day, succulents thrive in colder nights, down to even 40ºF. Ideally, succulents prefer daytime temperatures between 70 F and about 85 F and nighttime temperatures between 50 F and 55 F. Watering Succulents should be watered generously in the summer. The potting mix should be allowed to dry between waterings, but do not underwater. During the winter, when the plants go dormant, cut watering back to once every other month. Overwatering and ensuing plant rot is the single most common cause of plant failure. Be aware, though, that an overwatered succulent might at first plump up and look very healthy. However, the cause of death may have already set in underground, with rot spreading upward from the root system. A succulent should never be allowed to sit in water. The following are signs of under- or overwatering: Overwatering. Overwatered plants are soft and discolored. The leaves may be yellow or white and lose their color. A plant in this condition may be beyond repair, but you can still remove it from its pot and inspect the roots. If they are brown and rotted, cut away dead roots and repot into drier potting media, or take a cutting and propagate the parent plant. Under-watering: Succulents prefer generous water during the growing season (spring and summer). An under-watered plant will first stop growing, then begin to shed leaves. Alternatively, the plant may develop brown spots on the leaves.
Potting Soil Succulents should be potted in a fast-draining mixture that's designed for cacti and succulents. If you don't have access to a specialized mix, consider modifying a normal potting mix with an inorganic agent like perlite to increase aeration and drainage. These plants have shallow roots that form a dense mat just under the soil surface. Fertilizer During the summer growing season, fertilizer as you would with other houseplants. Stop fertilizing entirely during the winter.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月04日
Dummer. ゛☀
To get the best results from your garden, including bountiful blooms, lush foliage and an abundance of fruit and vegetables, you've got to give your plants the foods they crave. But you don't have to turn to mystery chemicals to make your garden grow; you can choose safe, non-toxic fertilizers that work just as well. Organic plant food is made from natural sources including bone meal, fish emulsion and manure. What makes plant food organic? Simply put, when plant food is described as organic, that means it comes from a plant or animal source rather than from a laboratory. Nearly any organic material can be used as plant food. The type of organic plant food that should be used depends on what you're growing, and the nutrients that are required by those plants. Here are 5 common types of organic plant food, along with information that will help you decide which one is right for your needs.
1. Bone meal is made from steamed and crushed animal bones and is rich in phosphorous, a mineral that plants need for healthy root development and flower growth. It also supplies calcium and a little bit of nitrogen. That makes it a great supplement for bulbs and roses. A little bone meal goes a long way, with just one tablespoon needed for every two square feet.
2. Blood meal is an ideal natural source of nitrogen, which is the main nutrient that virtually all plants need to grow. Nitrogen is a crucial component of plant cells and one of the building blocks of chlorophyll, the substance that enables plants to convert sunlight into sugars. Blood meal increases the yield of fruits and vegetables, adding lots of leafy green growth, and can also help keep deer out of the garden.
3. Cottonseed meal is a slow-release organic fertilizer with high nitrogen content. A by-product of cotton manufacturing, this organic plant food is slightly acidic, so it's perfect for acid-loving plants like azaleas, camellias and rhododendrons. It releases nutrients over an extended period of time. Cottonseed meal is a popular natural way to achieve lush green lawns.
4. Fish emulsion is a decomposed blend of finely pulverized fish left over from commercial processing, which contains a very high concentration of nitrogen. This powerful natural plant food can be used in very small quantities to give plants a major boost in growth, especially when applied early in the spring season. It does have a fish odor, but the smell goes away within about 24 hours.
5. Manure is perhaps the best-known organic plant food. Manure used as fertilizer may come from horses, cows, pigs, chicken or sheep. While applying manure to your plants may sound like a smelly and potentially unhygienic undertaking, commercially prepared manure plant food like Miracle-Gro Organic Choice is pasteurized in a unique process that kills harmful bacteria as well as weed seeds, reducing odors.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月04日
Dummer. ゛☀
Fertilizer All plants need fertilizer to live. In traditional gardening and farming, plants get their nutrients from soil and additive such as compost, manure, and chemical fertilizers. In hydroponics, plants are not grown in soil so nutrients must be delivered directly through the solution they are watered with. These nutrients are divided into two categories – macronutrients and micronutrients. Macronutrients are those that plants need in large amounts, including carbon, phosphorous, hydrogen, nitrogen, oxygen, sulfur, potassium, magnesium and calcium. Micronutrients are needed in tiny amounts but are essential. These include zinc, nickel, boron, copper, iron, manganese, molybdenum, boron, and chlorine. Without these essential elements, plants are unable to build molecules, undergo enzymatic reactions, and complete the life cycle. For hydroponic gardeners, this means that without proper nutrients they cannot produce fruit or vegetables or that what they do produce would be sub par.
PH PH is also an essential element to consider. The pH value of a nutrient solution has a huge impact on the amount of nutrition a plant can absorb. It is essential to check pH levels on a regular basis, preferably daily even if you are careful about measuring and mixing your nutrient solution correctly. Different plants have slightly different requirements for pH value and nutrient concentration. If you are going to be growing a large variety of plants in your system make sure to research the requirements for each so that you can group them in terms of their needs.
Temperature A single plant’s needs may also change under different environmental conditions such as weather, season, and temperature. This isn’t an issue for indoor setups that have a controlled environment but is something to consider if your system is located outside. Nutrient solution must be kept at a steady temperature. The ideal is at room temperature, between 70-78 degrees Fahrenheit. Again this is more of a concern for outdoor systems that are exposed to the weather. For winter, you can buy miniature water heaters that go inside of your reservoir to keep the nutrient solution warm. For summer, keeping the reservoir in a shaded area and periodically topping it off with cool water is generally sufficient to keep it from getting too hot.
Pre-Made Nutrient Solutions vs. Homemade You can either buy a pre-made nutrient solution, or you can formulate your own. Small farms and hobbyists generally purchase pre-mixed liquid or powder concentrates that are added to water. Large-scale farms generally mix their own to the specific needs of whatever they are growing using bulk concentrates of the individual chemical compounds. Pre-mixed concentrates usually come in two separate bottles, one for macro- and one for micro-nutrients. They are separated because some elements are incompatible with each other when concentrated and cause precipitation when they are combined. Once diluted, they do not form precipitates and can be used together without issue. Some manufacturers have managed to hold the incompatible nutrients in a chemical complex so that they do not mix –- these are sold in a single pack. For hydroponics, twin or triple pack solutions are usually the best options. They are simple to mix and only require a few materials – a container to mix them in, a dedicated measuring cup and a stirrer. If your mixing container has a lid, you don’t even need a stirrer as you can just shake it up. The measurement is usually 3.5 mL of each concentrate per liter. Make sure to double-check the mixing instructions on the bottle, though. Depending on the size of your system, for example with a large scale Ebb and Flow setup, you may want to mix your nutrient solution in very large quantities. 55-gallon drums make ideal mixing buckets for large systems and can store enough nutrient solution to replenish your reservoir for weeks. For smaller systems or if you do not have space for a large mixing container it is perfectly OK to mix your solution on an as-needed basis. After mixing your solution let it sit for a few minutes and settle, then check the pH and adjust as necessary. Starting off with a perfect pH will make it easier to maintain. You can even measure the number of drops of pH Up or pH Down needed every time you mix your solution, and just add that amount to the water before mixing in your concentrate.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月04日
Dummer. ゛☀
The first step to setting up your first hydroponic garden is selecting a system that best fits your needs. Important factors to consider include, how much space you have, what you want to grow and how much, cost, and how much time you have to spend maintaining the system. The three most basic setups recommended for beginners are Wick, Water Culture, and Ebb & Flow. All 3 of these systems can be built from separate components or bought complete either online or in a hydroponics store.
Wick Systems Wicke systems are by and large the most simple and easiest to set up because there are no moving parts. The system contains a reservoir filled with water and nutrients and above it, a container filled with growing medium. The two containers are connected by a wick, which draws the nutrient-filled water up into the growing medium where it is happily absorbed by your plants. This system is great for learning the basics, but may not work well with large or water-hungry plants such as lettuce, because the wick cannot supply water fast enough. This system works extremely well with micro greens, herbs, and peppers.
Water Culture It is another extremely simple system to set up. In this system, the plants are placed into a Styrofoam platform that sits right on top of the reservoir. An air pump is added to the reservoir to deliver oxygen to the roots. This system is ideally suited for water-hungry plants, but not for more long-term plants such as tomatoes. Ebb & Flow Ebb & Flow systems are slightly more complex but are extremely versatile. This system works by flooding the growing medium with a solution and then draining it back into the reservoir. To do this, you need a submersible pump with a timer. One of the greatest advantages of Ebb & Flow is that you can use the timer to customize your plants’ watering schedule based on the plant size, number of plants, temperature, humidity, etc.
You also have the option of potting plants individually for easy customization or filling the entire tray with growing medium and planting directly in the tray. Choosing What to Grow Just about any plant can be grown hydroponically, but for beginners, it is best to start small. The best choices are herbs and vegetables that grow quickly, require little maintenance, and do not have a huge variety of nutrient needs. You want fast-growing plants so that you can assess how well your system works and tweak it as necessary. It would be a real letdown to wait months until harvest time only to find out your system is not working properly. Maintenance-free plants are great for beginners because they allow you to focus on learning about your system- you can move on to more complex veggies later. If you are growing a variety of plants, it is also important to make sure that they are similar in their nutrient requirements, so that they grow well together. Good Starter Plants Greens such as lettuce, spinach, Swiss chard, and kale. Herbs such as basil, parsley, oregano, cilantro and mint White palm Epipremnum aureum Chlorophytum
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月04日
Dummer. ゛☀
Find the Right Home for Your Bulbs Pots and containers come in so many colors, shapes, and sizes, it's hard to decide which ones to choose. If you want to put bulb containers on your patio or deck, make sure that they're at least 16 inches across for impressive color. Containers placed elsewhere should be at least 8 inches across.
Deciding How Deep How deep your containers should be depends on the size and type of bulb you want to plant. Your container should allow for ample room for root systems to grow. You'll want to plant your bulbs in your container as deeply as you would in the ground. Ask at your garden center which bulbs have deeper roots and what size containers to use.
Choosing Materials When you choose your containers, remember the weather. Frost can damage terra-cotta containers, but usually won't harm plastic ones. Also, don't forget to choose containers with drainage holes.
Planting the Bulbs Plant your bulbs in the fall. Start by adding a layer of Miracle-Gro® Moisture Control® Potting Mix to your container. Then plant a layer of larger bulbs, like tulips or daffodils. Cover them with another layer of potting mix. Then you can add a layer of smaller bulbs, like crocus. Then add another layer of potting mix, leaving a 1 inch gap at the top of the pot. Place your bulbs in a cold spot - a porch, patio, garage, or shed - for the winter. Watering Your Bulbs Water thoroughly after you plant the bulbs. Then, check the soil for moisture every week or so. Make sure the soil stays moist, but not wet, or your bulbs will rot. In several months, when the weather starts to warm, your bulbs will start to emerge, and soon, you'll have beautiful blooms in your containers with hardly any effort.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月04日
Dummer. ゛☀
Think Outside the Pot If you've got a postage stamp for a yard or you're such an avid gardener that you've filled all your space, it's time to explore new gardening territory with vertical gardening. Follow the tips below for a few traditional and innovative ways to add new foliage to your small or plant-packed garden.
The Traditional Way: Grow Vines Vines are growing machines. Some of them can grow to 50 feet in length. If you have a fence or wall in need of livening up, try vines. Clematis is tame, while trumpet vines are more adventurous and can tear up your siding, so be sure to pick a variety that's suitable to your setting. You can put up a trellis on your wall or fence for your vine to follow, or build an arbor or pergola. Either way, you can create a stunning assortment of flowers and greenery with vines alone, and attracts birds and butterflies to your yard.
Grow Down With planters, you can create your own version of the Hanging Gardens of Babylon. Put containers along balconies or ledges and add trailing plants such as petunias or million bells, which will create a green and flowery curtain that sways in the breeze. Your hanging garden can also provide some much-needed shade during a hot summer.
Make a Living Wall Grow plants on your interior or exterior walls using a hanging structure like ELT's living walls. You can use just about any kind of plant that has shallow roots to create beautiful designs that look more like a tapestry than a garden. ELT's vertical garden system is a 20 by 24 inch rectangular plastic structure that has 25 containers in which to place your plants. You can fasten any number of rectangles together to cover any surface you want. They also make a vertical garden for interiors, either on the floor or as a frame on the wall. If you have a sloped roof that's exposed to sun all day, you can put some rectangles up to create an inexpensive green roof. Green roofs are becoming popular in Europe as a means of slowing down runoff and cooling buildings without air conditioning.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月04日
Dummer. ゛☀
Orchids belong to one of the largest plant families. There are almost 30,000 species of orchids, though most gardeners will likely only grow a handful of species commonly sold at garden and home improvement centers. These types are popular because they survive—and even thrive—within a typical home environment. The biggest tip for being a successful orchid grower is simply to not be afraid. They look exotic and fussy, but most orchids really aren’t. You can grow beautiful orchids at home. Here’s how.
How to Choose the Right Orchid for your Growing Conditions Most likely you’ll be growing one of a handful of orchids that are easy to find for sale. Phalaenopsis, sometimes called “moth orchid,” is the easiest to grow and what you find for sale at the grocery store. It likes low light and humid (but not stagnant) air. An east window is perfect for these plants. Other types of common orchids, such as oncidium, dendrobium, vanda, and cattleya, need more light and will thrive in a bright east window or west window as long as the sun is not shining directly on the plants. Select an orchid type that will thrive in the light conditions you can offer. You’ll also want to make sure the room temperature is between 65° and 80°F, as orchids are tropical plants that require a warm environment.
How to Water Orchids Orchids grow best with consistent moisture. For home gardeners this translates to watering once or twice per week by holding the pot under the faucet and allowing the potting mix to be thoroughly soaked by lukewarm water. Take care not to let water sit in the leaves, as this can cause disease problems.
How to Make Orchids Rebloom This is one of the biggest mysteries to new orchid growers! First, cut back the flower stalk to the first leaf after the plant blooms. Some orchid varieties will rebloom on the same stalk, while others will sprout a secondary bloom stalk at the end of the main stalk. Some plants take up to a year to grow a new flower stalk and rebloom. Many orchids respond to a period of cooler night temperatures in the fall. Try setting your plants outside as nighttime temperatures drop to fifty degrees overnight. Leave plants outside for a few weeks, and then bring in and resume fertilizing. Be patient. Your orchids will bloom again! How to Help Prevent Orchid Pests Good care goes a long way toward keeping pests and diseases from killing the plants or destroying the blooms. One additional thing you can do is to improve air circulation by placing a small house fan in the room where you grow orchids and setting it to rotate on the low setting. This will help keep bacterial and fungal pests at bay.
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