绿手指
首页
动态
文章
百科
花园
设置
简体中文
已关注
+
关注
花园 (6)
动态 (3585)
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月04日
Dummer. ゛☀

1. Compact Cameras are Fine The first thing people tell me when they see my photographs of flowers is that my DSLR makes them possible. They're wrong. You do not need to have big cameras to make nice photographs of flowers. I've photographed flowers for my collection with everything from full frame DSLRs to compact cameras. Let me say this: I prefer DSLRs, but it's not the gear that is important. It's the photographer. Compact cameras are good for photographing flowers, and some of them can focus so close, you'll beat out the DSLR photographers that need to spend lots of money in macro lenses to achieve the same effect. I carry a small compact in my pocket all the time. Most modern compact can focus on things just a few inches away from the lens. Some days I take a Micro 4/3 with me, and it never stopped me from getting the shots I want. You just have to adapt to the gear you've, because your best camera is always the one you have at the moment things happen! The picture above, of a California poppy, taken at the roundabout of a circular junction, was made with a cheap compact camera. I just stopped the car close by and went on to photograph it, surprising the drivers passing by, as they saw me lying on the ground. I did it because I wanted to take a picture that was different from what most people do.
2. Get Down on Your Knees One of the most important things to remember is to change your point of view. As I am a frequent visitor to public gardens and other places with flowers, I see how many amateurs photograph flowers: they come close to it, look down from above and shoot then they move on to another subject. Wrong move! Getting down on your knees shows a different perspective of the world, and opens a new horizon for your flower photography. To really photograph flowers you can not just take a snapshot and go away. Try to sit down at the level of the flowers and really look at them. It’s when you sit and watch that you discover more than the casual photographer does. You'll start to really see.
3. Sit, Meditate and See Photographing flowers is a good excuse to meditate. Sit down, try to find a spot away from people (if it’s possible) and relax. Don’t grab your camera and start shooting immediately. Take your time to sense the odors, examine the structure, colors and shapes. Look around and try to spot a few possible images around you without moving from the same place. That works for me. Visualize possible framings and how it will all come together in the end.
4. Play With Your Lens Start playing with the lens you want to use. Explore it to understand how to achieve different results. Forget the full automatic programs and choose one that lets you control your aperture. It is crucial for flower photography. Find how close you can go to the flower. Every lens has a different minimum focusing distance. Compact cameras are excellent in this area because they let you go very close, so close that sometimes you just get a little bit of the flower. Do it, sometimes less is more. You don’t need to have the whole flower in the frame to tell people what you want.
5. My Best Lens for Flowers People will many times associate a macro lens with flower photography, but it does not always have to be so. In fact, my favorite lens for flower photography is a 100-400mm lens used at the longer end of the zoom. I like the way it renders flowers and backgrounds, easily separating the subject from the rest. Me and my favorite lens for flower photography shot "at work." This picture is by my older son, Miguel Antunes. Most of the time I do not use a tripod, so, I need to use a high shutter speed, and that means a wide aperture, as I try to stay at low ISOs, mostly 100-400 ISO. In fact, I rarely try to have the whole flower in focus, so it does not matter. I always try to photograph from an angle that gives me a fairly good plane of focus on the best angle of the flower, and that's all I have to care about.
6. Isolate Your Subject Pictures like the one below of a white poppy in a field of poppies only work if you can keep the background out of focus. The distance from your main subject is crucial, as well as aperture and the lens in use. Longer lenses compress planes of focus and are excellent for this. Working close to the flower also helps. The aperture used is paramount in flower photography. Always check the aperture you're using and use the option to preview the depth of field if your camera has it. It is at times like this that I love the effect my 100-400mm zoom offers me. As long as my subject is against a background that can be thrown out of focus, results like this one can be achieved. From my experience, though, sometimes there is no way to get everything in balance, and then I give up and look for another flower that might fill all the conditions needed to get the picture I want. 7. Use Contrasting Backgrounds Using a background that has a different colour than the main subject helps to define what is important in the picture, and in these situations the solution for what could be a busy background is achieved another way. Kneeling or even lying on the ground will help you to find all these relations between the main subject and the environment that otherwise would not be perceived.
8. Get the Whole Picture I always tell students in my workshops to follow the "peel the onion" approach when it comes to photographing flowers (and other themes too). I rarely shoot a single photo of a flower or a series from just one angle. I can start by doing the photo that attracted me first, but then I go back to general views and move towards getting more detail again. From my experience I've found that the more you stay with a subject, the more you can discover about it. "Peeling the onion," which means methodically removing each layer of the onion, is a good working solution when you are facing a subject you feel has potential, but you seem to not be able to get a good picture of. Slowly moving from general shots to more intimate images helps to, eventually, reach a moment when everything fits in place and you get your picture of the day. Again, remember that with modern cameras, mainly compacts and some "mirrorless" systems, you can get rather close with the kit lenses, so there is no reason to envy DSLR users and their macro lenses that cost much more money!
9. Control Your Depth of Field When photographing flowers, many of us want everything in focus. When you get everything in focus, you often get a messy image. With flowers it is wise to keep them separated from the background, unless you're looking for a specific result. You have various ways to do this: use a macro and/or a long lens, open the aperture and go around the flower, as a hunter does to its prey, to check if there's a better angle to shoot from. Don't shy away from trying different solutions and accept that sometimes it is better to give up and look elsewhere. Armed with these suggestions – and the hint of the photographs published with this article – I bet you’ll soon be taking home very different photographs of flowers.
10. Develop Your Own Recipe Look carefully at my images and you'll learn a lot. I know, because I've done the same looking at the work of photographers such as George Lepp, famous for his California poppies images and tulips. I learned a lot looking at his photographs of flowers and trying to apply the same techniques to my work. I do not think there is anything special, a hidden trick, to make pictures like I do. I have common gear. I usually shoot with a Canon EOS 50D, although I have access to other equipment. My most important tip when it comes to photography is time. Take the time to be patient, sit down, listen to the flowers. I even talk with flowers everywhere I go. This image is a composite of two images shot sequentially. There is little movement between shots, taken at different exposures too, for a kind of HDR result with some softness mixed with good detail. Flower photography is not a mechanical thing. Once you understand how light works, flower photography is the result of sitting and watching. And waiting. And returning over and over to the same spots. My pictures are examples of that practice. Now go and try it for yourself.
1
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月04日
Dummer. ゛☀
A rose is a woody perennial flowering plant of the genus Rosa, in the family Rosaceae, or the flower it bears. There are over a hundred species and thousands of cultivars. They form a group of plants that can be erect shrubs, climbing or trailing with stems that are often armed with sharp prickles. Flowers vary in size and shape and are usually large and showy, in colours ranging from white through yellows and reds. Most species are native to Asia, with smaller numbers native to Europe, North America, and northwestern Africa. Species, cultivars and hybrids are all widely grown for their beauty and often are fragrant. Roses have acquired cultural significance in many societies. Rose plants range in size from compact, miniature roses, to climbers that can reach seven meters in height. Different species hybridize easily, and this has been used in the development of the wide range of garden roses.









0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月04日
Dummer. ゛☀
Aphids Aphids can weaken peanut plants as well as spread disease. The 1/16-inch-long light green bugs multiply rapidly, and by sucking sap from plants can cause considerable damage in a short time. Check the plants regularly and control aphids with insecticidal soap sprays. Leaf Spot Leaf spot is a fungus that's especially prevalent in areas where the weather is warm and moist. Small spots with light centers appear on plant leaves, eventually causing the leaves to turn yellow and drop off. To control leaf spot, rotate crops, plant certified disease-free seeds, remove and burn damaged leaves, and stay away from plants when they're wet.
Nematodes Nematodes are microscopic eel-like creatures that can be beneficial or harmful. Several species of nematodes plague southern gardeners, stunting plant growth, killing root systems and cutting down yields. In addition to feeding on plant roots, they may also carry and spread disease. Stunted, yellowed and wilted plants are symptomatic of nematode damage. Preventive measures include crop rotation and adding loads of organic matter to your garden before planting. For information on nematode control in your area, contact your Extension Service agent. Leafhoppers Potato leafhoppers suck on the undersides of leaves, spreading diseases and causing the tips of peanut leaves to turn yellow. These tiny green insects are sometimes referred to as "sharpshooters" because of their wedgelike shape. To prevent leafhopper damage, control weeds around your garden and cover plants with floating row covers. If leafhoppers succeed in infesting your plants, spray with pyrethrum.
Rootworms Southern corn rootworms bore into young plants and feed on peanut pegs and pods in the soil. These insects can slow healthy growth or even kill entire peanut plants. They're about 1/2 inch long, slender and yellowish white with a brown head. This pest is the larval stage of the spotted cucumber beetle. To control corn rootworms, treat your soil with beneficial nematodes. Thrips Thrips are microscopic pests that can transmit diseases among vegetables - especially in hot, humid climates. If you notice damage in the form of whitish patches on leaves, control with insecticidal soap or destroy severely infested plants. Grubs White grubs live in the soil and feed on the underground parts of peanut plants. The larvae are smooth and grayish white with hard brown heads. Mature grubs have curved 1/2- to one-inch-long bodies with six prominent legs. Control grub damage by growing green manure crops and by not planting peanuts where grass recently grew. Treat the soil with beneficial nematodes or milky spore powder.
Wireworms Wireworms vary in color from dark brown to pale yellow and reach 1/2 to 1-1/4 inches long when fully grown. Their segmented bodies are hard and shiny, and like white grubs, wireworms feed on roots and other underground parts of peanut plants. Control wireworms with beneficial nematodes.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月04日
Dummer. ゛☀
The tree’s yearly cycle Within a given year, plants go through various phases: winter dormancy revival and flowering producing new growth and fruit a short period of summer dormancy consolidation of the new growth preparation for the winter dormancy. The start points and lengths of the phases are very much dependent on variations in the photoperiod (the relationship between the length of the daytime and of night) and climate, which can alter the periods of rest or activity. For example, if there are very high temperatures, above 32–35°C, that last for more than a very brief spell, this will slow down or inhibit photosynthesis: the plant will then go into a period of dormancy that will not end until normal conditions have been re-established.
When to intervene The time to intervene on a bonsai is usually dictated by the plant’s life cycle. Sometimes the right moment is limited to a very short period of just a few days: this is the case for pinching buds on maples. Sometimes, on the other hand, the work can be carried out over an extended period, by adapting the procedures or replacing them with other solutions which, if carefully applied, may even be preferable: this is the case for the repotting of some broadleaves in summer. In general, the period for intervention more or less coincides with seasonal changes: in winter, the tree is dormant because of very cold weather in early spring, growth begins again in spring and early summer, there is major growth in high summer, the tree is dormant due to the heat in early autumn, fruit is produced and growth stabilises in late autumn, the tree prepares for the winter dormancy. These are only rough guidelines, however. Geographical position and local microclimate are highly variable factors, so it is necessary to check the plant’s ability to adapt to the chosen location. Paying close attention to the biological cycle of plants to glean useful pointers and to choose the time and method of intervention is much more pertinent, and gives more accurate information than following tables of prescribed data. Phase 1. During winter dormancy Broadleaves are inactive during this period. The absence of leaves does not allow photosynthesis, and there is no activity in the organs. The part above ground has no need for either light or fertiliser. Stick only to routine maintenance, to avoid the possibility of infestation by parasites or fungus. The roots, on the other hand, need a certain amount of moisture in the soil to stay alive and not dry out. But take care not to over-water; otherwise you risk asphyxiating them. During this period, because of the low temperatures, water evaporates slowly and is not absorbed at all by the leaves. The soil dries so slowly that it is easy to forget to check it. This is a good period for a number of types of work on bonsai. Repotting Most bonsai can be repotted during the winter, but the best period for this is the weeks immediately prior to the early spring revival, when you judge that there is no longer a danger of intense cold that could damage the roots. If repotting a tree in the middle of winter, you need to remember to put it in a place where is safe from frost – although not in a heated room, because you do not want to stimulate premature growth. Broadleaves are generally repotted after hosing down the root ball to clean it and leave the roots bare. This provides an opportunity to have a good look at all of the roots every two to three years. You therefore need to take advantage of it to improve them, by removing thicker ones so as to stimulate growth of finer ones which absorb nutrients dissolved in water. The improvements must concern either the buried roots, or those on the surface, and the nebari which should be attended to at each repotting. The root mass of a vigorous broadleaf can be reduced by 60%, or even more, without causing any suffering to the plant. Repotting conifers is more complicated and carries a slightly higher level of risk than that of broadleaves. It should never be done with bare roots; instead, part of the root ball must be kept intact. The fine roots of conifers generally have more trouble forming. To absorb food, they need mycorrhizas, which therefore need to be retained. The time available in late winter for repotting broadleaves is rather limited. Repotting must be suspended as soon as the first buds start to open. A second possibility for repotting arises in June, when the leaves from the first budding are mature. The period for repotting conifers is much longer and can extend right up to the point when the candles open for pines, or to the growth of new foliage for junipers: in practice, it can last from the first half of February until mid-June, depending on the microclimate of the location concerned. Cutting back the roots during repotting stimulates the plant to quickly produce new roots, new growth, and to repair its wounds: healing is very speedy in this period. Pruning As for the above-ground parts of the plant, this late winter period is a good time for structural pruning, replacement pruning and maintenance pruning: Structural, or ‘hard’, pruning is intended to give an initial form to virgin material, reducing the length of the trunk and accentuating the taper if this is part of the design conceived for the bonsai, or removing unnecessary branches. Replacement pruning is used to reduce the height of a bonsai or the length of its branches. It thus serves to make the bonsai’s form more compact. This and the previous type of pruning use a smaller and shorter secondary branch to replace the one that has been cut off. If necessary, before growth starts again in the spring, this is the moment to carry out a second styling exercise, to go back over the design or perfect it. Maintenance pruning. It is also possible to use a very light pruning to get back the shape that has been lost through the new growth from the last season. This type of pruning, which is usually combined with wire training, allows the bonsai’s form to be re-established and the foliage to grow correctly. Repeated every year, this procedure leads the bonsai towards maturity and encourages its growth activity to stabilise. It is always best to treat the severed ends after pruning with cut paste or adhesive aluminium tape, to protect them from microorganisms and insects, and to retain a minimum level of humidity, which is necessary for the development of healing cells. The use of adhesive aluminium tape (0.5 mm thickness) for healing has been adapted to bonsai by the master Harumi Miyao, renowned in Japan as the greatest expert on Japanese maple, Acer palmatum. The technique consists of covering the perfectly flat (not concave!) cut with a piece of aluminium tape which goes 2 centimetres beyond the edge of the cut all round. Healing then takes half the time that it does with other methods, and there is no swelling. Other tasks for the dormant period The winter dormancy is a good time for: working on jin and shari (dead parts of branches or trunks), whether small or large major work on deadwood on junipers, pines and Prunus bending trunks and branches, small or large treating deadwood with jin seal to prevent it from rotting using jin seal as a preventative measure (dilute 1 part jin seal with 30 parts water) on trunks and major branches of broadleaves. On pines, just before maintenance pruning and wire training, if it has not been done already, it is possible to remove the old needles to allow more light to penetrate, to activate the dormant buds inside the tree and to sort through the terminal buds at the ends of the branches to leave just two of them. Phase 2. Reawakening in early spring At the beginning of spring, broadleaves need to be carefully inspected to spot the first signs of budding. Some species, such as elm and hornbeam, should initially be left to bud freely. Only a few weeks later, when the new shoots have developed at least four to six leaves, is intervention necessary by cutting with scissors after the second leaf. Others, however – especially in the case of bonsai that have already been styled – need intervention to keep overly vigorous growth under control and avoid compromising the elegance and refinement of the ends of the ramification. This is the case for Japanese maples in the styling phase: if they are left to grow unfettered, during the season they will produce thick, straight shoots a metre long. On the other hand, on a maple that is in the phase of refinement, intervention on the buds is required every day, from the moment the first ones start to open until the last ones have finished budding. The procedure consists of opening the first two leaves, which will be retained, and removing the leaves inside. This operation, which is called “pinching”, induces the growth of new and smaller buds, which will sprout from the axils of the remaining leaves. The procedure, which needs to be constantly repeated and is often carried out alongside deleafing, generates small leaves and an elegant and slender ramification, which is what characterises Japanese maples. Beech is an unusual case, because it only buds once in the spring. This idiosyncrasy has the result of increasing the time required for the ramification to densify. Phase 3. New growth in Spring
Pinching junipers All varieties of juniper (Juniperus communis, J. chinensis, J. phoenicea L., etc.), if well cultivated (with the necessary sunlight, water and fertiliser), bud continuously from spring to autumn. New shoots should be pinched back with the fingertips every 10 to 15 days, or trimmed with scissors two or three times during the season. If you choose to use scissors, then cut by inserting the scissor blades parallel to the stalk of the shoot. Pinching firs As for firs, only large buds should be pinched, when they reach 2 to 3 centimetres (about an inch) long. Break them off with your fingers, halfway down. Leave small buds to develop, to balance the energy of the different areas of the tree. Pinching broadleaves Plants have a natural tendency to grow most in the areas that have the greatest amount of light, so that they can photosynthesise as much as possible. The bonsaist’s task is to spread the growth as evenly as possible, to balance out the energy across all areas of the plant. Pinching is needed for the most vigorous buds, to limit their development and encourage strengthening of the weaker ones. Usually you should only keep the first two buds, and remove the others. However, in particularly thick areas, it is better to leave only one, while leaving three or even four in the thinner areas. This procedure should be repeated as and when necessary as the new growth comes out, and should continue throughout the growing season. Flowering and fruiting plants are a separate case, because they should be left free to grow. They should only be pruned at the end of summer, after the differentiation between flower buds and leaf buds has been established. Flower buds develop at the bases of branches that have grown during the year. If you prune the branches before the buds are differentiated, which generally happens around the end of June, the reduction of the leaf surface area obliges the plant to increase the number of leaf buds and abandon flower buds in order to re-establish a balance in the existing foliage. Pinching pines The months of May and June are a period of intense activity in pines. If you want make a pine into a bonsai, pinching candles and pruning new shoots are absolute musts. If small branches are not slowed down, they will continue to grow longer in all directions, seeking out as much light as possible. They will then be impossible to make more compact in order to create foliage pads. The energy will then be concentrated around the thickest areas – the branches at the top of the tree and the ends of the other branches – as is the case for almost all plants, which will increase the energy in these spots, to the detriment of the thinner areas which will end up perishing. To reverse this tendency, you need to cut off a greater or lesser amount of the candles. The period to do this is difficult to establish a priori, because it varies according to the specimens concerned and the geographical region. What you need to remember is that, on vigorous specimens, candles should be pinched when they have developed adequately, to somewhere around 3 centimetres (an inch and a quarter). To pinch them back, take the candle between your thumb and index finger and cut it off, while gently twisting it. You should not use scissors, because if you do, the ends of the needles will turn black as they develop. When candles do not open all at once, you need to pay careful attention and pinch them all back bit by bit, as they develop. Layering When the plant is at the height of its activity, it is the right moment for layering. Sap is flowing abundantly and all the organs are working at a good pace, which encourages roots to sprout quickly. Layering (also called marcotting) can be used to thin down an overly thick trunk, to create a new specimen by using an interesting part of an over-thick plant, to improve nebari that is not particularly attractive, etc. The procedure takes advantage of the capacity many plants have of rapidly producing new roots at a point where a ring of bark has been removed. Layering is an easy method of multiplying numbers of plants. It is used a lot to produce specimens with good proportions and interesting characteristics, and quite quickly at that. Taking cuttings Cuttings are a reproduction technique that allows plants with perfectly identical characteristics to the parent plant to be obtained. Again, this technique takes advantage of the capacity that certain species have – junipers and almost all broadleaves – to put out roots. Pines are not recommended here, because they usually have too slow a metabolism for the cutting to take root before it dries out. If the part destined for the cutting is well chosen, the new plant will have good characteristics, but will need plenty of time in order to reach the appropriate dimensions for creating a bonsai. Phase 4. Summer Summer repotting Sometimes, for lack of time or by force of events, you cannot repot during the ideal period, which is generally at the end of winter. Some species can be safely repotted outwith this season, usually in June, by taking certain precautions. This summer repotting is done when broadleaves are mature – that is, when they have finished developing and are completely fulfilling all their functions (first and foremost of which is photosynthesis). They change slightly in colour (growing darker), as well as in texture – they become more resistant, and rubbing them between your fingers makes a sound similar to rustling a sheet of paper. This is the best time for an “off-season” repotting. In summer, roots should only be cut back by a maximum of 40 %, while in spring they can be cut back by up to 60%. In addition, it is likewise advisable to cut back the foliage, by defoliating to a greater or lesser degree, so as to improve the water balance – between absorbed and evaporated water. After repotting, it is important to protect the plant from direct sunlight and wind for a few weeks, and to shelter it in a bright spot. To ensure the substrate has the right level of moisture, which encourages the plant to sprout and develop radicles, on the surface where it dries out most quickly, cover the soil with a layer of small pieces of sphagnum; these can be left permanently in place. If you work carefully, broadleaves generally withstand being repotted out of season without any problem at all. For conifers (pines and junipers), since their repotting period is longer, the need to repot them in June is eliminated, and all the more so since June is the month when candles develop and new needles and shoots are put out; and it is dangerous and not right to stress plants without good reason. Pruning new shoots on pines During June, and sometimes up to mid-July depending on the climate and the specific characteristics of each plant, new shoots on pines should be cut back with scissors. These new shoots are buds that have become candles and have sprouted needles. The aim of pruning new shoots is to keep the lengthening of the branches under control, to encourage dormant buds to be roused and consequently to form dense, compact ramification, as well as reducing the length of needles. Summer dormancy As high summer temperatures start to arrive – above 32-35°C (90–95°F) – almost all plants stop or considerably slow down their growth rate. Metabolism, photosynthesis, transpiration and gaseous exchange undergo major changes, forcing the leaves to put mechanisms in place that can reduce the absorption of heat and can dissipate it as much as possible through stomata. Plants stop growing and go into a state of rest. When conditions return to “normal” for them, all their mechanisms start to work normally again. During this period, full attention needs to be paid to watering: often, very high temperatures and wind will dry out the substrate very quickly and literally burn the dehydrated leaves. The leaves begin to go dry (turn brown) on their outer edges, and if the plant is not quickly watered, including being sprayed with a fine mist, they will end up drying out completely. It is easy to understand that in order to function properly, plants need a quantity of water that is at least equal to that used to carry out all their functions. When the amount of water that is lost through foliar transpiration, evaporation from the substrate etc. is greater than the amount being absorbed, the leaves will wither. If the imbalance is only slight and does not last long, normal conditions can quickly be re-established by watering, and no permanent damage will be recorded. Only photosynthesis and growth will be temporarily inhibited. Without watering, the loss of water will spread from the leaves to the trunk and right down to the roots, and the leaves will fall off within a few days. As with leaf loss in late autumn, the loss of all leaves in advance through drying out is not always a sign that the plant is dead. If the buds for the following spring have been produced, and the dehydration has not affected the branches, trunk or roots, the plant will bud normally in the spring. If the plant is rehydrated, it may even recover during the season that is already underway, and reconstruct its root system and buds.
Phase 5. In autumn Fertilising Once the hottest period is past, in late August or early September (depending on the region), temperatures return to normal, below 30°C (86°F), and plants then readopt their normal growth activity. This is also the moment when attention needs to be focused as much as possible on fertilisation, which needs to supply the plant with the substances it needs to develop, consolidate new growth, reconstitute exhausted reserves and strengthen itself to best cope with the winter season. In autumn, it is preferable to use fertilisers that are low in nitrogen, which is better for encouraging vegetative growth, especially for young plants and those that are in the construction phase. The feed also needs to be rich in phosphorus – to stimulate root growth and prepare a good flowering for the spring – and in potassium, to strengthen the plant, increase the roots’ assimilation capacity and consolidate the new growth that has been produced during the season. Chemical fertilisers, which should be used with great care, can be put quickly to use by plants. Conversely, the nutrients of organic fertilisers need to break down by fermentation to be assimilated: this is why they can only be used by the roots 20 to 30 days after they have been applied. Phase 6. Winter rest Winter is the time when, after lavishing care and attention on plants, you can finally reap the rewards of your efforts and enjoy them: trees offer up bunches of little apples, orange kakis, a whole host of multicoloured berries and splendidly coloured leaves. But there are still some small tasks that need to be done, to guide plants towards their rest period as best as possible: remove old pine needles – those that have not grown this season – to allow light to penetrate between the branches and activate the reawakening of dormant buds; remove dead leaves on broadleaf trees, to prevent stagnation of the moisture from creating problems; treat branches and trunks of broadleaves with jin seal to guard against disease and fungal infections (1 part jin seal to 30 parts water).
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月04日
Dummer. ゛☀
Basic file parts of fertilizer The three basic elements of any fertilizer are Nitrogen (N), Phosphorous (P) and Potassium (K), with each element serving different purposes. Nitrogen increases growth of leaves and stems (growth above ground), Phosphorus encourages healthy root growth and growth of fruits and flowers, Potassium promotes overall plant health. Different ratios of NPK are being used for different trees at different times of year, which is very important to take into account when fertilizing Bonsai.
When should I apply fertilizer? Fertilize during the entire growth season of the tree; from early spring till mid autumn. Indoor trees can be fertilized around the year. Although sometimes disputed, do not fertilize repotted trees for about a month; also do not fertilize sick trees.
Which fertilizer to choose? It is very important to choose the right fertilizer for your Bonsai plants: during the early spring time use a fertilizer with a relatively high Nitrogen content (something like NPK 10:6:6) to boost the tree’s growth. During the summer use a more balanced fertilizer (like NPK 6:6:6) while during the autumn use a fertilizer to harden off the tree for the coming winter (like NPK 3:6:6). A few exceptions are worth pointing out: to encourage Bonsai to flower use a fertilizer with a high Phosphorous (P) content (like NPK 6:10:6) and for older trees you might want to use fertilizer with a slightly lower Nitrogen (N) content or reduce the quantity of fertilizer applied. Although “Bonsai fertilizer” is fertilizer like any other, buying from (online) Bonsai shops will help you find the right NPK values. Any fertilizer with the right NPK value is perfectly fine. You can choose to use either liquid or solid fertilizer; which doesn't matter much, just follow the application guidelines as stated on the product’s packaging.
How to fertilize Bonsai trees? Feed your Bonsai using the quantities and frequency as stated on the fertilizer’s packaging. You can choose to reduce the recommended quantity slightly for trees that are not in training anymore, to balance their growth instead of stimulating it. When using solid fertilizer it helps to use fertilizer covers, which make sure the fertilizer stays in place. Never overfeed your trees, as this will have serious consequences for their health.
1
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月04日
Dummer. ゛☀
To prevent a tree from being pot-bound and ultimately starving to death, regular repotting is crucial. Re-potting your Bonsai will not keep it small; instead it will supply the tree with new nutrients that it needs to grow and flourish.
How often should I repot? It depends on the size of container/pot and tree species how often a Bonsai needs to be repotted. Fast growing trees need to be repotted every two years (sometimes even every year), while older, more mature trees need to be repotted every three to five years. Do not repot on a routine, instead check on your trees every early spring by carefully removing the tree from its pot. A Bonsai needs to be repotted when the roots circle around the root system. When the roots are still contained in soil wait another year before checking again.
When? Repotting work normally needs to be done during the early spring; when the tree is still in dormancy. This way the somewhat damaging effect of repotting on a tree is reduced to a minimum, as the tree does not yet have to sustain a full-grown foliage. Repotting in early spring will also ensure that damage done to the root system will be repaired soon, as soon as the tree starts growing.
Bonsai soil mixture Choosing the right soil mixture is crucial for the health of your trees, it should be draining enough to prevent the roots from rotting, while absorbing enough water to supply the tree with water. Although some tree species need special soil mixtures, the following mixture is suitable for most trees: Mix Akadama, pumice and lava rock together in a ratio of 2:1:1. When you do not have time to water your trees regularly, choose a more water absorbing mixture (use more Akadama), while you should choose a more draining mixture (use more lava rock) when living in a wet climate.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月04日
Dummer. ゛☀
how often Bonsai trees need to be watered depends on too many factors to give exact guidelines. Instead, you need to learn to observe your trees and know when they need to be watered. The following general guidelines will help you to get Bonsai watering right:
Water your trees when the soil gets slightly dry This means you should not water your tree when the soil is still wet but only when it feels slightly dry; use your fingers to check the soil at around 0.4’’ (one centimeter) deep. Once you get more experienced you will be able to see (instead of feel) when a tree needs watering. Never water on a routine Keep observing your trees individually, instead of watering them on a daily routine, until you know exactly what you are doing. Use the right soil-mixture The soil-mixture greatly influences how often trees need to be watered, for most Bonsai trees a mixture of akadama, pumice and lava rock mixed together in a ratio of ½ to ¼ to ¼ should be fine. However, use a mixture that retains more water (by using more akadama, or even potting compost) when you cannot water your trees that regularly. Read the Bonsai soil mixtures article for more information.
When? It doesn't really matter at what time you water a Bonsai. Some advice to avoid watering (with very cold water) during the afternoon, when the soil has been warmed up by the sun and will cool down rapidly when using cold water. Though this can be taken into consideration, it should always be clear that you should water your tree no matter what time it is, as soon as the soil gets slightly dry!
How to water Bonsai trees? As explained previously, water when the soil gets slightly dry. When the tree does require water though, it needs thorough soaking so the entire root system is wetted. To do so, keep watering until water runs out of the drainage holes, and possibly repeat the process a few minutes later. Water a tree from above using a watering can with a fine nozzle; this will prevent the soil from being washed away. Using collected rain water is better (as it doesn’t contain added chemicals), but when this is not readily available there is no problem in using normal tap water. There are also automated watering systems, but these are often quite costly.
4
0
文章
267 268 269 270 271 272 273 274 275 276 277 278 279 280 281 282
相关用户
茉莉花
茉莉花
来自： Faye
朝阳
绿萝
绿萝
来自： 采元气少女✨
长沙
茉莉花
茉莉花
来自： 小松树快乐
长沙
绿萝
绿萝
来自： 水中月
赣州市
茉莉花
茉莉花
来自： 艺源
广安市
芦荟
芦荟
来自： 采元气少女✨
长沙
茉莉花
茉莉花
来自： 阿罗
南昌
芦荟
芦荟
来自： Bailu_Yuan
北京
白掌
白掌
来自： 韩凯
武汉
绿萝
绿萝
来自： 阿罗
南昌
举报 反馈

您有什么意见或建议，欢迎给我们留言。

请输入内容
提交
取消
设置
VIP
退出登录
关闭
分享

分享好文，绿手指（GFinger）养花助手见证你的成长。

关闭
请前往电脑端操作

请前往电脑端操作

关闭
转发
插入话题
提醒好友
发布
/
提交成功 提交失败 最大图片质量 成功 警告 啊哦！ 出了点小问题 转发成功 举报 转发 显示更多 _zh 文章 求助 动态 刚刚 回复 邀你一起尬聊！ 表情 添加图片 评论 仅支持 .JPG .JPEG .PNG .GIF 图片尺寸不得小于300*300px 最少上传一张图片 请输入内容