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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Cucumis Sativus PLANT TYPE: Vegetable SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun SOIL TYPE: Loamy SOIL PH: Neutral An easy-care vegetable that loves sun and water, cucumbers grow quickly as long as they receive consistent watering. Most varieties will grow in any amount of space, thanks to the plant’s ability to climb. Of course, these prolific veggies are perfect for pickling! There are two types of cucumber plants: vining cucumbers and bush cucumbers. The most common varieties grow on vigorous vines shaded by large leaves. The growth of these plants is fast, and the crop yield is abundant if you care for them properly. Vining varieties grow up a trellis or fence. They will be cleaner—versus those that grow atop soil—often more prolific, and easier to pick. Bush cucumbers are, however, nicely suited to containers and small gardens. Make successive plantings (every two weeks for continued harvests). In already-warm summer soil, cucumbers will grow quickly and ripen in about six weeks! If you’re interested in making pickles, we recommend several prolific varieties below that are bred especially for pickling, such as heirloom ‘Boston Pickling’. For crispy pickles, be sure to prepare them within a few hours of harvesting!
PLANTING Cucumber plants are seeded or transplanted outside in the ground no earlier than 2 weeks after last frost date. Cucumbers are extremely susceptible to frost damage; the soil must be at least 70ºF for germination. Do not plant outside too soon! Before you plant outside, select a site with full sun. Soil should be neutral or slightly alkaline with a pH of 7.0. Cucumbers require fertile soil. Mix in compost and/or aged manure before planting to a depth of 2 inches and work into the soil 6 to 8 inches deep. Make sure that soil is moist and well-drained, not soggy. Improve clay soil by adding organic matter. Improve dense, heavy soil by adding peat, compost or rotted manure. (Get a soil test if you are unsure of your soil type; contact your local county cooperative extension.) Light, sandy soils are preferred for northern gardens, as they warm quickly in the spring. Plant seedlings one inch deep and about 36 to 60 inches apart, depending on variety. For vines trained on a trellis, space plants 1 foot apart. For an early crop, start cucumber seeds indoors about 3 weeks before you transplant them in the ground. They like bottom heat of about 70ºF (21ºC). If you don’t have a heat mat, put the seeds flat on top of the refrigerator or perch a few on top of the water heater. If you live in the cooler climates, you can help warm the soil by covering the hill or row with black plastic. Once the ground is warm, mulch with pine straw, chopped leaves, or another organic mulch to keep pests at bay, and also keep bush types off the ground to avoid disease. A trellis is a good idea if you want the vine to climb, or if you have limited space. Trellising also protects the fruit from damage from lying on the moist ground.
CARE The main plant care requirement for cucumbers is water—consistent watering! They need one inch of water per week (more if temperatures are sky high). Put your finger in the soil and when it is dry past the first joint of your finger, it is time to water. Inconsistent watering leads to bitter-tasting fruit. Water slowly in the morning or early afternoon, avoiding the leaves so that you don’t get leaf diseases which will ruin the plant. If possible, water your cucumbers with a soaker hose or drip irrigation to keep the foliage dry. Mulch to hold in soil moisture. Cover seeds with netting or a berry basket if you have pests; this will keep them from digging out the seeds. When seedlings emerge, begin to water frequently, and increase to a gallon per week after fruit forms. When seedlings reach 4 inches tall, thin plants so that they are 1½ feet apart. If you’ve worked organic matter into the soil before planting, you may only need to side-dress your plants with compost or well-rotted manure. If you wish, use a liquid fertilizer from your garden store such as vegetable plant food which is low nitrogen/high potassium and phosphorus formula. Apply at planting, 1 week after bloom, and every 3 weeks, directly to the soil around the plants. Or, you can work a granular fertilizer into the soil. Do not over-fertilize or the fruits will get stunted. If you have limited space or would prefer vertical vines, set up trellises early to avoid damage to seedlings and vines. Spray vines with sugar water to attract bees and set more fruit.
PESTS/DISEASES If your cucumber plants do not set fruit, it’s not usually a disease. There is probably a pollination issue. The first flowers were all male. Both female and male flowers must be blooming at the same time. This may not happen early in the plant’s life, so be patient. (Female flowers are the ones with a small cucumber-shaped swelling at the base that will become the fruit.) Lack of fruit may also be due to poor pollination by bees, especially due to rain or cold temperatures, or insecticides. To rest assured, you could always hand pollinate. (Dip a Q-tip into the male pollen and transfer it to the center of the female flower.) Remember, gynoecious hybrids require pollinator plants. Squash bugs may attack seedlings. Aphids are always a nuisance for any vegetable plant but easily managed. Powdery mildew can be a problem if the leaves get wet (water at the soil level). Apply fungicides at the first sign of its presence. Cucumber Beetles may attack the vines and can cause disease.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Zea mays PLANT TYPE: Vegetable SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun SOIL TYPE: Loamy SOIL PH: Neutral Sweet corn is wind-pollinated, so it should be planted in blocks, rather than in single rows. Early, mid, and late-season varieties extend the harvest. If you miss the optimal harvest time, corn will go downhill fast, as sugars convert to starch.
PLANTING Corn plants are picky about their soil. Work in aged manure or compost the fall before planting and let over winter in the soil. Starting corn seeds indoors is not recommended. Plant seeds outdoors two weeks after the last spring frost date. Make sure soil temperature is above 60 degrees F for successful germination. (Up to 65 for super sweet varieties.) In colder zones, the ground can be warmed by a black plastic cover if necessary. Plant seeds through holes. Plant seeds 1 inch deep and 4 to 6 inches apart. Rows 30 to 36 inches apart. For sufficient pollination, plan your plot right. Don’t plant two long rows, rather, plant corn blocks of at least four rows. You may choose to fertilize at planting time; corn is meant to grow rapidly. If you are confident that the soil is adequate, this can be skipped. Water well at planting time.
CARE When your plants are 3 to 4 inches tall, thin them so they are 8 to 12 inches apart. Be careful not to damage the roots when weeding. Soil must be well drained and able to keep consistent moisture. In dry conditions, be sure to keep corn well watered due to its shallow roots. Water at a rate of 5 gallons per sq yard. Mulch helps reduce evaporation.
PESTS/DISEASES Corn plants are susceptible to several common garden pests: Raccoons Spotted Cucumber Beetles Flea Beetles Cutworms
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Beta vulgaris PLANT TYPE: Vegetable SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun SOIL TYPE: Loamy BLOOM TIME: Summer Chard is a member of the beet family that does well in both cool and warm temperatures. It can be cooked or used raw in salads and is high in vitamins A and C.
PLANTING Plant chard seeds 2 to 3 weeks before the last spring frost date. Continue planting seeds at 10-day intervals for a month. For a fall harvest, plant chard seeds again about 40 days before the first fall frost date. Before planting, mix 1 cup of 5-10-10 fertilizer into the soil for every 20 feet of single row. Plant the seeds ½ to ¾ of inch deep in well-drained, rich, light soil. Space the seeds about 18 inches apart in single rows or 10 to 18 inches apart in wide rows. Sow eight to ten seeds per foot of row.
CARE When the plants are 3 to 4 inches tall, thin them out so that they are 4 to 6 inches apart or 9 to 12 inches apart if the plants are larger. Water the plants evenly to help them grow better. Water often during dry spells in the summer. You can also mulch the plants to help conserve moisture. For the best quality, cut the plants back when they are about 1 foot tall. If the chard plants become overgrown, they lose their flavor.
PESTS/DISEASES Leaf minor Slugs Aphids
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Apium graveolens PLANT TYPE: Vegetable SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun SOIL TYPE: Any SOIL PH: Neutral Celery is a long-season crop that can be tricky to grow—some might say, the trickiest of all. Here’s how to grow celery in your garden. Celery likes fertile soil, cool temperatures, and constant moisture. It will not tolerate heat and can be hard to transplant. Summer crops in the north and winter crops in the south make celery a year-round producer. All the hard work is worth it when you finally get to harvest crunchy, green stalks!
PLANTING Celery seeds should always be started indoors for the best success rate, 8 to 10 weeks before the average last frost date for your area. (See local frost dates.) For summer gardeners, a late summer direct sowing is possible. Be sure that temps will stay between 55 and 70ºF throughout the growing period. The National Gardening Association recommends soaking seeds in warm water overnight prior to planting, to reduce germination time. Work organic fertilizer or compost into the soil prior to planting. (Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.) Harden off seedlings before transplanting by reducing water slightly, and keeping them outdoors for a couple hours a day. Transplant seedlings 10 to 12 inches apart, direct sow seeds ¼ inch deep. These will need to be thinned to 12 inches apart when they reach about six inches high. Mulch and water directly after planting.
CARE Celery is a heavy feeder and requires lots of water. Make sure to provide plenty of water during the entire growing season, especially during hot, dry weather. If celery does not get enough water, the stalks will be dry and small. Add plenty of compost and mulch around the plants to retain moisture. Fertilize regularly. Add mulch as needed, to help retain soil moisture and add nutrients. Tie growing celery stalks together to keep them from sprawling.
PESTS/DISEASES Cutworms Aphids Whiteflies Bolting Mosaic Virus Fusarium Wilt
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Brassica oleracea PLANT TYPE: Vegetable SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun SOIL TYPE: Loamy SOIL PH: Slightly Acidic to Neutral FLOWER COLOR: White BLOOM TIME: Spring Cauliflower is a cool-season crop and a descendant of the common cabbage. It is more difficult to grow than its relatives because it does not tolerate the heat or cold as well. For this reason, cauliflower is usually grown commercially. If you plant to attempt growing cauliflower in the home garden, it requires consistently cool temperatures with temperatures in the 60s. Otherwise, it may prematurely “button”—form small, button-size heads—rather than forming a single, large, white head.
PLANTING Select a site with at least 6 hours of full sun. Soil needs to be very rich in organic matter; add composted mature to the soil before planting. Fertile soil holds in moisture to prevent heads from “buttoning.” Test your soil! (Get a comprehensive soil test through your local cooperative extension office.) The soil pH should be between 6.5 and 6.8. It is best to start cauliflower from transplants rather than seeds. Transplant 2 to 4 weeks before the average frost date in the spring, no sooner and not much later. (See local frost dates.) Space the transplants 18 to 24 inches apart with 30 inches between rows. Use starter fertilizer when transplanting. Plant fall cauliflower about the same time as fall cabbage. This is usually 6 to 8 weeks before the first fall frost, but after the daytime temperature is below 75 degrees F. If you really want to try starting cauliflower from seeds, start the seeds 4 to 5 weeks before the plants are needed. Plant the seeds in rows 3 to 6 inches apart and up to half an inch deep. Do not forget to water the seeds during their germination and growth. Once they become seedlings, transplant them to their permanent place in the garden. In early spring, be ready to cover your plants with old milk jugs for protection if needed. For fall crops, shade them if they need protection from the heat. Add mulch to conserve moisture.
CARE Make sure that the plants have uninterrupted growth. Any interruption can cause the plants to develop a head prematurely or ruin the edible part completely. Cauliflower requires consistent soil moisture. They need 1 to 1.5 inches of water each week; with normal rainfall, this usually requires supplemental watering. For best growth, side-dress the plants with a nitrogen fertilizer. Note that the cauliflower will start out as a loose head and that it takes time for the head to fully form. Many varieties take at least 75 to 85 days from transplant. Be patient! When the curd (the white head) is about 2 to 3 inches in diameter, tie the outer leaves together over the head with a rubber band, tape, or twine. This is called blanching, and it protects the head from the sun and helps you get that pretty white color. The plants are usually ready for harvest 7 to 12 days after blanching.
PESTS/DISEASES Cabbageworm: Nectar from dwarf zinnias lures in ladybugs and other predators that help to protect cauliflower from cabbageworms. Cabbage root maggots Aphids Harlequin bugs Clubroot Black rot
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Daucus carota PLANT TYPE: Vegetable SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun SOIL TYPE: Sandy SOIL PH: Neutral Carrots are a popular root vegetable that’s easy to grow as long as it’s planted in loose, sandy soil. Most varieties of carrots are resistant to pests and diseases, and they are also a good late season crop that can tolerate frost. Carrots’ root is rich in sugar, and a great source of vitamins and carotene. Not all carrots are orange; varieties vary in color from purple to white! If there is a challenge to growing carrots, it’s just having soil that’s not too heavy—or, you’ll end up with stunted round balls! Most carrot varieties need deep, loose soil. Carrots are grown from seed and take about four months to mature.
PLANTING Plan to plant seeds outdoors 3 to 5 weeks before the last spring frost date. Carrots are ideally grown in full sunlight, but can tolerate a moderate amount of shade. Plant carrot seeds 3 to 4 inches apart in rows. Rows should be at least a foot apart. Make sure your soil is free of stones; carrots need deeply tilled soil that they can push through. Have you ever seen a carrot that has grown “legs” or forked? Fresh manure, or even recently applied rotted manure, can cause carrots to fork and send out little side roots. Don’t use it before you plant your seeds.
CARE Gently mulch to retain moisture, speed germination, and block the sun from the roots. Soil should be well drained and loose to prevent forking and stunting of the root growth. Once plants are an inch tall, thin so they stand 3 inches apart. Snip them with scissors instead of pulling them out to prevent damage to the roots of remaining plants. Water at least one inch per week. Weed diligently. Fertilize 5-6 weeks after sowing. Carrots taste much better after a couple of frosts. Following the first hard frost in the fall, cover carrot rows with an 18-inch layer of shredded leaves to preserve them for harvesting later.
PESTS/DISEASES Wireworms Flea Beetles Aster Yellow Disease will cause shortened and discolored carrot tops and hairy roots. This disease is spread by pests as they feed from plant to plant. Keep weeds down and invest in a control plan for pests such as leafhoppers. This disease has the ability to overwinter.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Brassica oleracea var. capitata PLANT TYPE: Vegetable SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun SOIL TYPE: LoamySandy SOIL PH: Neutral Cabbage is a hardy, leafy vegetable full of vitamins. It can be difficult to grow; it only likes cool temperatures and it can be a magnet for some types of garden pests. By planning your growing season and providing diligent care, you may have two successful crops in one year, in both spring and fall. Many varieties are available to suit both your growing conditions and taste preferences.
PLANTING Start cabbage seeds indoors 6 to 8 weeks before the last spring frost. Harden off plants over the course of a week. To prepare soil, till in aged manure or compost. Transplant outdoors 2 to 3 weeks before the last expected frost date. Choose a cloudy afternoon. Plant 12 to 24 inches apart in rows, depending on size of head desired. The closer you plant, the smaller the heads. Mulch thickly to retain moisture and regulate soil temperature. Practice crop rotation with cabbage year to year to avoid a buildup of soil borne diseases. Although cabbage, broccoli, and cauliflower are closely related, and require similar nutrients, it’s best not to plant them together. They are all heavy feeders, depleting the soil faster of required nutrients; plus, they will attract the same pests and diseases. For cabbage, also avoid proximity to strawberries and tomatoes. Cabbage can be grown near beans and cucumbers.
CARE When transplants reach 5 inches tall, thin to make sure they are still the desired length apart. (The plants you remove can be transplanted elsewhere in your garden.) Fertilize 3 weeks after transplanting. Keep soil moist with mulch and water 2 inches per week.
PESTS/DISEASES Imported Cabbageworms: Dill protects all members of the cabbage family by attracting beneficial wasps that kill cabbageworms and other pests. Aphids Cabbage Root Maggots Flea Beetles Cutworms Splitting
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun SOIL TYPE: Any SOIL PH: Neutral Brussels sprouts are a member of the cabbage family, and an excellent source of protein and vitamins. They have a long growing season, and are generally more successful when grown for a fall harvest, as they only increase in flavor after a light frost or two.
PLANTING Start seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before last spring frost. While starting seeds indoors is recommended, you may also direct sow seeds 4 months before the first fall frost. You may also have luck finding seedlings at a nursery. Raised beds are especially recommended for cold season vegetables, especially when seasons are changing and temps are not consistent. Work fertilizer into soil a few days before planting or transplanting. Plant transplant seedlings 12-24 inches apart. If direct sowing seeds, plant ½ inch deep and 2-3 inches apart. Thin plants to 12-24 inches apart when they reach 6 inches tall. Water well at time of planting/transplanting.
CARE Fertilize three weeks after transplanting. Mulch to retain moisture and keep the soil temperature cool. Do not cultivate, roots are shallow and susceptible to damage.
PESTS/DISEASES Aphids Cabbage Root Maggots Flea Beetles Clubroot Downy Mildew White Mold
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Brassica oleracea PLANT TYPE: Vegetable SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun SOIL TYPE: Sandy SOIL PH: Slightly Acidic to Neutral Broccoli is a cool-season crop that, like spinach, can be grown in the spring or fall. Here’s how to grow broccoli in your garden. With broccoli, you may even be able to get a continual harvest throughout the summer and fall if you practice succession gardening. A member of the cabbage family, broccoli is rich in vitamins.
PLANTING Broccoli can germinate in soil with temperatures as low as 40ºF. Broccoli requires full sun and moist, fertile soil that’s slightly acidic. Work in 2 to 4 inches of rich compost or a thin layer of manure before planting.For spring plantings, seed or set transplants 2 to 3 weeks before last spring frost date. (See local frost dates.) If you transplant, assume 10 less days for growth or the “days to maturity” on the seed packet. For fall plantings, seed 85 to 100 days before your average first fall frost. If you live in a warm climate, a fall planting is best, as broccoli thrives in cool weather. Plant seeds in mid- to late-summer in most places. Plant seeds ½ inch deep, or set transplants slightly deeper than they were grown originally. Within a row, space your plants 12 to 24 inches apart with 36 inches between each row. Space plants 12 to 24 inches apart, depending on the side heads you want to harvest. If you overseed, you will need to thin seedlings to 12 inches apart to give room for the broccoli to grow.
CARE Fertilize three weeks after transplanting. Provide consistent soil moisture with regular watering, especially in drought conditions. Some varieties of broccoli are heat tolerant, but all need moisture. Do not get developing heads wet when watering. Roots are very shallow, do not cultivate. Suffocate weeds with mulch. Mulch will also help to keep soil temperatures down.
PESTS/DISEASES Flea Beetles Aphids: Curling leaves may mean that the plant’s sap is being sucked by insects. Apply soapy water to all sides of leaves whenever you see aphids. Downy mildew: Yellow patches on leaves are usually caused by moist weather. Keep leaves as dry as possible with good air circulation. Buy resistant varieties. Cabbage loopers: Small holes on the leaves between the veins mean small green caterpillars are present. Look at the undersides of the leaves. Hand pick if the problem is small or control with Bacillus thuringiensis. Use a floating row cover just after planting through harvest to prevent caterpillars. Cabbageworms and other worm pests: Treat same as loopers. Cabbage root maggots Whiteflies Nitrogen deficiency: If the bottom leaves turn yellow and the problem continues toward the top of the plant, the plants need a high nitrogen (but low phosphorus) fertilizer or blood meal. Blood meal is a quick nitrogen fix for yellowing leaves. Clubroot: Quickly wilting plants may be due to this fungus in the soil. The entire plant, including all roots and root tendrils, must be gently dug up and removed. If the roots are gnarled and misshapen, then clubroot is the problem. Act quickly to remove the plants so that the fungus doesn’t continue to live in the soil. Do not compost the plants. Raise the pH of your soil to above 7.2. You may need to sterilize your soil, too.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Capsicum annuum PLANT TYPE: Vegetable SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun SOIL TYPE: Loamy SOIL PH: Neutral Peppers resist most garden pests and offer something for everyone: spicy, sweet, or hot; and a variety of colors, shapes, and sizes. For this page, we will focus on sweet bell peppers.
PLANTING Start seeds indoors 8-10 weeks before last spring frost date. The temperature must be at least 70° F for seed germination, so keep them in a warm area for the best and fastest results. Start pepper seeds three to a pot, and thin out the weakest seedling. Let the remaining two pepper plants spend their entire lives together as one plant. The leaves of two plants help protect peppers against sunscald and the yield is often twice as good as two segregated plants. Begin to harden off plants about 10 days before transplanting. A week before transplanting, introduce fertilizer or aged compost into your garden soil. After the danger of frost has passed, transplant seedlings outdoors, 18 to 24 inches apart (but keep paired plants close to touching.) Soil should be at least 65° F, as peppers will not survive transplanting at temps any colder. Northern gardeners can warm up the soil by covering it with black plastic. Put two or three match sticks in the hole with each plant, along with about a teaspoon of fertilizer. These give the plants a bit of sulfur, which they like.
CARE Soil should be well drained, but be sure to maintain adequate moisture either with mulch or plastic covering. Water one to two inches per week, but remember that peppers are extremely heat sensitive. If you live in a warm or desert climate, watering everyday may be necessary. Fertilize after the first fruit set. Weed carefully around plants. If necessary, support plants with cages or stakes to prevent bending. Try commercially available cone-shaped wire tomato cages. They may not be ideal for tomatoes, but they are just the thing for peppers. Or, build your own garden supports. For larger fruit, spray the plants with a solution of one tablespoon of Epsom salts in a gallon of water, once when it begins to bloom, and once ten days later.
PESTS/DISEASES Aphids Flea Beetles Cucumber Mosaic Virus Blossom-End Rot appears as a soft, sunken area which turns darker in color. Pollination can be reduced in temperatures below 60° F and above 90° F. Too much nitrogen will reduce fruit from setting.
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