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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
Dummer. ゛☀
BOTANICAL NAME: Cucurbita maxima, C. moschata, C. argyrosperma PLANT TYPE: Vegetable SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun SOIL TYPE: Any Whether you use them for carving or cooking, pumpkins do not disappoint. Here’s how to grow your own supply of pumpkins. Note that pumpkins do require a lot of food and a long growing season (generally from 75 to 100 frost-free days) so you need to plant them by late May in northern locations to early July in extremely southern states. Do not plant this tender vegetable until all danger of frost has passed and the soil is warmed, as the seedlings will be injured or rot.
PLANTING SELECTING A SITE Pick a site with full sun (to light shade) and lots of space for sprawling vines. Vine varieties need 50 to 100 square feet per hill. However, if your garden space is limited, no worries! Plant pumpkins at the edge of the garden and direct vine growth across the lawn or sidewalk. The vines will only be bothersome for a few weeks. You can also grow pumpkins in big 5 to 10 gallon buckets! Or, try miniature varieties. Pumpkins are big, greedy feeders. They prefer very rich soil that is well-drained and not too soggy. Mix lots of compost and aged mature into the planting site before you sow seeds or transplant. PLANTING BY SEED Pumpkins do best when the seeds are planted directly in the ground. If your growing season is very short, seed indoors in peat pots about 2 to 4 weeks before last spring frost. Be sure to harden off before transplanting. Wait until the plant soil is 70ºF or more before sowing seeds. Optimum soil temperature is 95ºF. Pumpkins are very sensitive to the cold. Plant seeds in rows or “pumpkin hills” which are the size of small pitcher mounds. With hills, the soil will warm more quickly and the seeds will germinate faster. This also helps with drainage and pest control. Prepare the hills in advance with an abundance of old manure dug deep into the ground (12 to 15 inches). If you don’t have manure, loosen the soil and mix in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost Plant the seeds 1 inch deep into the hills (4 to 5 seeds per hill). Space hills 4 to 8 feet apart. Your plants should germinate in less than a week with the right soil temperature (70 degrees F) and emerge in 5 to 10 days. When the plants are 2 to 3 inches tall, thin to 2 to 3 plants per hill by snipping off unwanted plants without disturbing the roots of the remaining ones. In rows, sow seeds 6 to 12 inches apart in rows 6 to 10 feet apart. Snip off plants to thin to one plant every 18 to 36 inches.
CARE Use row covers to protect plants early in the season and to prevent insect problems. However, remember to remove covers before flowering to allow pollination by insects! Pumpkins are very thirsty plants and need lots of water. Water one inch per week. Water deeply, especially during fruit set. When watering: Try to keep foliage and fruit dry unless it’s a sunny day. Dampness will make rot more likely. Add mulch around your pumpkins to keep in moisture, suppress weeks, and discourage pests. Remember that pumpkins are tender from planting to harvest. Control weeds with mulch. Do not overcultivate, or their very shallow roots may be damaged. Most small vine varieties can be trained up a trellis. Larger varieties can be trained upward on a trellis, too—though it is an engineering challenge to support the fruit—usually with netting or old stockings. If your first flowers aren’t forming fruits, that’s normal. Both male and female blossoms need to open. Be patient. Bees are essential for pollination, so be mindful when using insecticides to kill pests. If you must use, apply only in late afternoon or early evening, when blossoms are closed for the day. Pumpkin vines, though obstinate, are very delicate. Take care not to damage vines, which reduces the quality of fruit. Pump Up Your Pumpkins! Pumpkins are HEAVY feeders. Regular treatments of manure or compost mixed with water will sustain good growth. Fertilize on a regular basis. Use a high nitrogen formula in early plant growth. Fertilize when plants are about one foot tall, just before vines begin to run. Switch over to a fertilizer high in phosphorous just before the blooming period. Pinch off the fuzzy ends of each vine after a few pumpkins have formed. This will stop vine growth so that the plant’s energies are focused on the fruit. Pruning the vines may help with space, as well as allow the plant’s energy to be concentrated on the remaining vines and fruit. Gardeners who are looking for a “prize for size” pumpkin might select the two or three prime candidates and remove all other fruit and vines. As the fruit develops, they should be turned (with great care not to hurt the vine or stem) to encourage an even shape. Slip a thin board or a piece of plastic mesh under the pumpkins.
PESTS/DISEASES Squash bugs and cucumber beetles are common, especially later in summer. Contact your local Cooperative Extension for potential controls. Aphids Squash Vine Borer Powdery Mildew Anthracnose Poor light, too much fertilizer, poor weather at bloom time, and reduced pollinating insect activity can negatively impact fruit set.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
Dummer. ゛☀
BOTANICAL NAME: Solanum tuberosum PLANT TYPE: Vegetable SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun SOIL TYPE: Sandy SOIL PH: Acidic The taste and the texture of home-grown potatoes are far superior to those of store-bought spuds, especially the early varieties. They need a cool climate, and also need to be watched to prevent sunburn. In warmer climate zones, potatoes can be grown as a winter crop.
PLANTING How to Plant Potatoes Plant seed potatoes (pieces of whole potato or a small whole potato, with at least 2 eyes per piece) 0-2 weeks after last spring frost. (See local frost dates.) You may start planting earlier, as soon as soil can be worked, but be aware that some crops will be ruined by a frost. If you are cutting up potato pieces for planting, do so 1-2 days ahead of time. This will give them the chance to “heal” and form a protective layer, both for moisture retention and rot resistance. Spread and mix in rotted manure or organic compost in the bottom of the trench before planting. Plant seed potatoes one foot apart in a 4-inch deep trench, eye side up. Practice yearly crop rotation.
CARE How to Grow Potatoes Potatoes thrive in well-drained, loose soil. Potatoes need consistent moisture, so water regularly when tubers start to form. Hilling should be done before the potato plants bloom, when the plant is about 6 inches tall. Hoe the dirt up around the base of the plant in order to cover the root as well as to support the plant. Bury them in loose soil. Hilling keeps the potatoes from getting sunburned, which can cause them to turn green and produce a chemical called solanine. Solanine gives off a bitter taste and is toxic, so do not eat green potatoes. You will need to hill potatoes every couple of weeks to protect your crop.
PESTS/DISEASES Aphids Flea Beetles Leaf Hoppers Early/Late Blight Potato Scab: Most likely cause by a high soil pH. Remember: Potatoes like acidic soil (do not plant in soil with a pH higher than 5.2). Dust seed potatoes with sulfur before planting.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
Dummer. ゛☀
BOTANICAL NAME: Pisum sativum PLANT TYPE: Vegetable SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun SOIL TYPE: Loamy SOIL PH: Neutral Peas are a popular, tasty, cool-season crop. Here’s how to grow peas in your garden! There are three varieties of peas that will suit your garden and cooking needs: Pisum savitum, which includes both types of garden peas: sweet peas (inedible pods) and snow peas (edible flat pods with small peas inside). Pisum macrocarpon, snap peas (edible pods with full-size peas). Pea plants are easy to grow, but have a very limited growing season. Furthermore, peas do not stay fresh long after harvest, so enjoy them while you can!
To get the best head start, turn over your pea planting beds in the fall, add manure to the soil, and mulch well. As with other legumes, pea roots will fix nitrogen in the soil, making it available for other plants. Peas will appreciate a good sprinkling of wood ashes to the soil before planting. Sow seeds outdoors 4 to 6 weeks before last spring frost, when soil temperatures reach 45 degrees F. Plant 1 inch deep (deeper if soil is dry) and 2 inches apart. Get them in the ground while the soil is still cool, but do not have them sit too long in wet soil. It’s a delicate balance of proper timing and weather conditions. For soil that stays wet longer, invest in raised garden beds. A blanket of snow won’t hurt emerging pea plants, but several days with temperatures in the teens could. Be prepared to plant again. Peas are best grown in temperatures below 70 degrees F.
CARE Make sure that you have well-drained, humus-rich soil. Poke in any seeds that wash out. (A chopstick is an ideal tool for this.) Be sure, too, that you don’t fertilize the soil too much. Peas are especially sensitive to too much nitrogen, but they may like a little bonemeal, for the phosphorus content. Though adding compost or manure to the soil won’t hurt, peas don’t need heavy doses of fertilizer. They like phosphorus and potassium. Water sparsely unless the plants are wilting. Do not let plants dry out, or no pods will be produced. Do not hoe around plants to avoid disturbing fragile roots. It’s best to rotate pea crops every year or two to avoid a buildup of soil-borne diseases.
PESTS/DISEASES Aphids Mexican Bean Beetles Woodchucks Fusarium Wilt
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
Dummer. ゛☀
BOTANICAL NAME: Pastinaca sativa PLANT TYPE: Vegetable SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun SOIL TYPE: LoamySandy SOIL PH: Slightly Acidic to Neutral Parsnips, popular with ancient Greeks and Romans, were brought over to the Americas with the first colonists. Although parsnips are biennials, they are usually grown as an annual vegetable. Parsnips are a hardy, cool-season crop that is best harvested after a hard frost. Parsnips are not only tasty in soups and stews, but can also be enjoyed by themselves.
PLANTING Always sow fresh seed. Parsnips need a long growing season, so sow as soon as the soil is workable. Loosen the soil to a depth of 12-15 inches and mix in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost. Sow 2 seeds per inch ½ an inch deep Seedlings will emerge in 2-3 weeks
CARE Thin the seedlings to stand 3-6 inches apart. Water during the summer if rainfall is less than 1 inch per week. Always keep the beds free of weeds.
PESTS/DISEASES Aphids Leaf Miners Carrot Rust Flies Parsnip Canker (all cultivars but 'Tender and True' are resistant to this)
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
Dummer. ゛☀
BOTANICAL NAME: Allium cepa PLANT TYPE: Vegetable SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun SOIL TYPE: AnyLoamy SOIL PH: Neutral Onions are a cold-season crop, easy to grow because of their hardiness. We recommend using onion sets, which can be planted without worry of frost damage and have a higher success rate than direct seed or transplants.
PLANTING Select a location with full sun where your onions won’t be shaded by other plants. Soil needs to be well-drained, loose, and rich in nitrogen; compact soil affects bulb development. Till in aged manure or fertilizer the fall before planting. Onion plants are heavy feeders and need constant nourishment to produce big bulbs. At planting time, you can mix in some nitogen fertilizer, too, and side dress every few weeks until the bulbing process begins. Seeding? Onion seeds are short-lived. If planting seeds indoors, start with fresh seeds each year. Start seeds indoors about 6 weeks before transplanting. Plant onions as soon as the ground can be worked in the spring, usually late March or April. Make sure temperature doesn’t go below 20 degrees F. For sets or transplants, plant the smaller sets 1 inch deep, with 4 to 5 inches between each plant and in rows 12 to 18 inches apart. Think of onions as a leaf crop, not a root crop. When planting onion sets, don’t bury them more than one inch under the soil; if more than the bottom third of the bulb is underground, bulb growth can be restricted. Practice crop rotation with onions.
CARE Fertilize every few weeks with nitrogen to get big bulbs. Cease fertilizing when the onions push the soil away and the bulbing process has started. Do not put the soil back around the onions; the bulb needs to emerge above the soil. Generally, onion plants do not need consistent watering if mulch is used. About one inch of water per week (including rain water) is sufficient. If you want sweeter onions, water more. Onions will look healthy even if they are bone dry, be sure to water during drought conditions. Make sure soil is well-drained. Mulch will help retain moisture and stifle weeds. Cut or pull any onions that send up flower stalks; this means that the onions have “bolted” and are done.
PESTS/DISEASES Thrips: To control thrips—tiny insects about as fat as a sewing needle—take a dark piece of paper into the garden and knock the onion tops against it; if thrips are present, you will spot their tan-colored bodies on the paper. A couple of treatments with insecticidal soap kills them. Follow the package directions. Spray the plants twice, three days apart, and the thrips should disappear. Onion Maggots: Cover your emerging onion crop with a fine mesh netting. Seal it by mounding soil around the edges. The onion maggot likes to lay its eggs at the base of plants, so the netting should prevent that. You should also keep mulch away because the insects like decaying organic matter, and make sure you completely harvest your onions as the season progresses. Onion maggots are usually a problem in very rainy periods, so these precautions may be unnecessary if you have a dry season.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
Dummer. ゛☀
BOTANICAL NAME: Abelmoschus esculentus PLANT TYPE: Vegetable SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun SOIL TYPE: Loamy FLOWER COLOR: WhiteYellow BLOOM TIME: Summer Okra is traditionally a southern U.S. plant that thrives in warm weather. Here’s how to grow okra plants in your own garden! Okra is easy to grow and use and looks great throughout the growing season due to its beautiful flowers. It’s also rich in vitamin A and low in calories, which makes it a great addition to your diet.
PLANTING You can start okra seeds indoors in peat pots under full light 3 to 4 weeks before the last spring frost date. You can also start okra directly in your garden 3 to 4 weeks before the last spring frost date as long as you cover the plants with a cold frame or grow tunnel until the weather warms up. Make sure that the covering is 2 to 3 feet tall so that the plants have room to grow. If you do not start your okra plants early, wait until there is stable warm weather. You can plant okra in the garden when the soil has warmed to 65° to 70°F. Plant okra in fertile, well-drained soil in full light about ½ to 1 inch deep and 12 to 18 inches apart. You can soak the seeds overnight in tepid water to help speed up germination. If you are planting okra transplants, be sure to space them 1 to 2 feet apart to give them ample room to grow. Okra plants are tall, so be sure to space out the rows 3 to 4 feet apart.
CARE Eliminate weeds when the plants are young, then mulch heavily to prevent more weeds from growing. Apply a layer of mulch 4 to 8 inches high. You should also side-dress the plants with 10-10-10, aged manure, or rich compost (½ pound per 25 feet of row). You could also apply a balanced liquid fertilizer monthly. Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting. When the seedlings are about 3 inches tall, thin the plants so that they are 10 to 18 inches apart. Keep the plants well watered throughout the summer months; 1 inch of water per week is ideal, but use more if you are in a hot, arid region. After the first harvest, remove the lower leaves to help speed up production.
PESTS/DISEASES Aphids Corn earworms Stinkbugs Fusarium wilt
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
Dummer. ゛☀
BOTANICAL NAME: Lactuca sativa PLANT TYPE: Vegetable SUN EXPOSURE: Part Sun SOIL TYPE: Loamy Garden lettuce is far superior—in both taste and vitamin A content—to supermarket brands. Here’s how grow this cool-season crop—best planted in the spring and fall. Lettuce grows well in the spring and fall in most regions. Lettuce seedlings will even tolerate a light frost. Temperatures between 45° F and 65° F are ideal. Because lettuce grows quickly, the best approach is to plant a small amount at a time, staggering your plantings.
PLANTING Before you plant your lettuce seeds, make sure the soil is prepared. It should be loose and drain well so it’s moist without staying soggy. To keep the soil fertile, feed it with organic matter about one week before you seed or transplant. Since the seed is so small, a well-tilled seedbed is essential. Large clods will reduce germination. Direct sowing is recommended as soon as the ground can be worked. Plant seeds ½ inch deep. Snow won’t hurt them, but a desiccating cold wind will. If you want an earlier crop, however, you may start seeds indoors 4 to 6 weeks before last spring frost date for an earlier crop. Harden off seedlings for about one week, and transplant outside between 2 weeks before and 2 weeks after last spring frost. Seed may be sown in single rows or broadcast for wide row planting. When broadcasting, you’ll need to “thin” for the proper spacing. Leaf lettuce: Plant 4 inches apart. Cos and loose-headed types: Plant 8 inches apart. Firm-headed types: Plant 16 inches apart. Your rows of plants should be 12 to 15 inches across. Cover the seeds with ¼ to ½ inch of soil. Water thoroughly at time of transplant. Consider planting rows of chives or garlic between your lettuce to control aphids. They act as “barrier plants” for the lettuce. If you’d like to grow your lettuce indoors, check out these tips for growing lettuce indoors.
CARE You should be able to sow additional seeds every two weeks for a continuous harvest throughout the growing season. Fertilize 3 weeks after transplanting. Lettuce prefers soil that is high in humus, with plenty of compost and a steady supply of nitrogen to keep if growing fast. Use organic alfalfa meal or a slow-release fertilizer. To plant a fall crop, create cool soil in August by moistening the ground and covering it with a bale of straw. A week later, the soil under the bale will be about 10° F (6° C) cooler than the rest of the garden. Sow a three-foot row of lettuce seeds every couple of weeks—just rotate the straw bale around the garden. Make sure soil remains moist but is well drained. An organic mulch will help conserve moisture, suppress weeds, and keep soil temperatures cool throughout the warmer months. Lettuce will tell you when it needs water. Just look at it. If the leaves are wilting, sprinkle them anytime—even in the heat of the day—to cool them off and slow down the transpiration rate. Weed by hand if necessary, but be careful of plant roots: They are shallow. Planning your garden so that lettuce will be in the shade of taller plants, such as tomatoes or sweet corn, may reduce bolting in the heat of the summer.
PESTS/DISEASES Aphids Earwigs Cutworms White Mold Woodchucks Rabbits
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
Dummer. ゛☀
BOTANICAL NAME: Brassica oleracea acephala PLANT TYPE: Vegetable SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun SOIL TYPE: Loamy SOIL PH: Neutral to Slightly Alkaline BLOOM TIME: Varies Kale is a hardy, cool-season green that is part of the cabbage family. It grows best in the spring and fall and can tolerate fall frosts. Here’s how to grow kale in your garden. Kale can be used in salads or simply as a garnish. Kale has a number of health benefits, as it is rich in minerals and vitamins A and C.
PLANTING You can plant kale at any time, from early spring to early summer. If you plant kale late in the summer, you can harvest it from fall until the ground freezes in winter. Mix 1-½ cups of 5-10-10 fertilizer per 25 feet of row into the top 3 to 4 inches of soil. Plant the seeds ¼ to ½ inch deep into well-drained, light soil. After about 2 weeks, thin the seedlings so that they are spaced 8 to 12 inches apart.
CARE Water the plants regularly, but be sure not to overwater them. Mulch the soil heavily after the first hard freeze; the plants may continue to produce leaves throughout the winter.
PESTS/DISEASES Cabbageworms Flea beetles Aphids
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
Dummer. ゛☀
BOTANICAL NAME: Allium sativum PLANT TYPE: Vegetable SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun SOIL TYPE: Loamy SOIL PH: Slightly Acidic to Neutral Garlic is easy to grow and produces numerous bulbs after a long growing season. Plus, it’s frost tolerant! Here’s how to grow garlic in your garden. Beyond its intense flavor and culinary uses, “the stinking rose” is good in the garden as an insect repellent and has been used for centuries as a home remedy.
PLANTING Garlic can be planted in the spring as soon as the ground can be worked, but fall planting is recommended for most gardeners. Plant in the fall and you’ll find that your bulbs are bigger and more flavorful when you harvest the next summer. In areas that get a hard frost, plant garlic 6 to 8 weeks before that frost date. In southern areas, February or March is a better time to plant. Break apart cloves from bulb a few days before planting, but keep the papery husk on each individual clove. Plant cloves about one month before the ground freezes. Do not plant cloves from the grocery store. They may be unsuited varieties for your area, and most are treated to make their shelf life longer, making them harder to grow. Instead, get cloves from a mail order seed company or a local nursery. Ensure soil is well-drained with plenty of organic matter. Select a sunny spot. Place cloves 4 inches apart and 2 inches deep, in their upright position (the wide root side facing down and pointed end facing up). In the spring, as warmer temperatures come, shoots will emerge through the ground.
CARE Northern gardeners should mulch heavily with straw for overwintering. Mulch should be removed in the spring after the threat of frost has passed. (Young shoots can’t survive in temps below 20°F on their own. Keep them under cover.) Cut off any flower shoots that emerge in spring. These may decrease bulb size. Weeds should not be a problem until the spring. Weed as needed. Garlic requires adequate levels of nitrogen. Fertilize accordingly, especially if you see yellowing leaves. Water every 3 to 5 days during bulbing (mid-May through June). A note on garlic scapes: Some folks love cooking the scapes (the tops of hardneck garlic). Whether you trim the scapes or let them keep growing is your preference. We like to stir fry scapes the way we cook green beans—similar, with a spicy kick!
PESTS/DISEASES Garlic has very few problems with pests in the garden (in fact, its a natural pest repellent!), and also very few problems with the diseases that plague other veggies. White Rot is one concern, but you should also keep an eye out for the same pests that plague onions. White Rot is a fungus that may attack garlic in cool weather. Not much can be done to control or prevent that problem except rotating your crops and cleaning up the area after harvesting. The spores can live in the soil for many years. The fungus affects the base of the leaves and roots.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
Dummer. ゛☀
BOTANICAL NAME: Solanum melongena PLANT TYPE: Vegetable SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun SOIL TYPE: Sandy SOIL PH: Slightly Acidic to Neutral Given their tropical and subtropical heritage, eggplants do require relatively high temperatures, similar to tomatoes and peppers (which are also in the nightshade family of vegetables). Like tomatoes, eggplants grow hanging from the vines of a plant that grows several feet in height. Because they need warm soil, most gardeners either buy them as transplants or start them indoors about two months in advance. Raised plans enriched with composted manure are an ideal growing place for eggplants because the soil warms more quickly. Though eggplants are usually a beautiful dark purple color, their color can vary, and so can the size and shape—from small- to large-fruited. Eggplants are harvested in mid- to late-summer and are a favorite grilling vegetable!
PLANTING Start plants indoors in flats or peat pots 2 months before the soil warms up or buy nursery transplants just before planting. Plant outdoors in a very sunny spot with well-draining, fertile soil (with a pH from 6.3 to 6.8). Mix 1 inch or so of well-rotted manure or a general fertilizer such as 5-10-5 throughout the planting bed about a week before planting. (Apply 2 to 3 pounds per 100 square feet.) Use a covering of black plastic mulch to warm heavy clay soils before setting out transplants. If transplanting, set 3- to 4-inch tall seedlings 24 to 30 inches apart in well-prepared beds. Mix 1 tablespoon of 5-10-5 or a shovelful of rotted manure or good compost with the soil in the bottom of each planting hole and cover with more soil. If you’re growing eggplant in pots, use a dark-colored container. Each plant needs five-gallon (or, larger) pots and should be placed in full sun and outdoors so it can be pollinated. Use a premium potting mix to avoid disease. Stake the plants right away (just an inch or two from the plant) to provide support as they climb and to avoid disturbing the soil later. If you live in a cold climate, consider using row covers to keep the eggplants warm and sheltered. Open the ends of the row covers on warm days so that the bees may pollinate. After planting, water well. Add a layer of mulch to retain moisture and suppress weeds.
CARE Eggplant will fall over once loaded with fruit. Be sure to stake plants 24 inches tall or use a cage to keep the plants upright. If growing eggplant in containers, stake the stems before the fruit forms. Water well without letting the soil get soggy. Consistent watering is best, and a soaker hose or drip system at ground level is ideal. Apply a balanced fertilizer every two weeks during the growing season. For bigger fruits, restrict to five or six per plant. Pinch out the terminal growing points for a bushier plant.
PESTS/DISEASES Flea beetles are probably the most common pest, but a healthy eggplant should be able to withstand damage from their tiny holes. Verticillium wilt and Powdery Mildew can affect eggplant. Tomato Hornworms are sometimes an issue. Eggplant fruit may not ripen properly due to cold temperatures, pest damage, or infertile soils. Strangely-shaped eggplant are the result of inconsistent watering or low moisture.
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