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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月04日
Dummer. ゛☀
Caring for Roses Is Easier than You Think The last thing you need in your hectic day is a high-maintenance flower in your garden. Fortunately, caring for roses is not as complicated as it is often thought to be. With a little extra attention to feeding, watering and pruning, roses will transform and elevate your garden, whether you're working with easy-to-grow miniature roses, shrubs or the more challenging climbing varieties.
Watering Your Roses Roses crave sunlight and generous helpings of food and water. In most climates, provide at least six hours of sunlight per day. If you live in a very hot climate, plant them where they are shaded from the hot afternoon sun. When watering, water at the base of the plant, and provide about an inch of water per week. Using a soaker hose is ideal for roses because it delivers water directly to the roots and keeps the leaves dry. It's also best to water in the morning, so if the leaves do get wet they will have plenty of time to dry.
Feeding Your Roses Roses should be fed in the early spring just as their leaves begin to grow. Roses that bloom continuously are hungry and benefit from nourishment, so feed your roses every 2 weeks with a water soluble rose food, such as Miracle-Gro® Water Soluble Rose Food. Or, for a longer lasting solution, use a continuous release plant food, such as Miracle-Gro® Shake 'n Feed® Continuous Release Rose Plant Food, which will feed for up to 3 months. Pruning Your Roses For roses that bloom continuously, removing faded blossoms will encourage your rose bushes to produce more flowers. Snip off the spent flowers below the bloom just above the first leaflet. Since leaves are the energy factories for your roses, leaving the foliage intact will result in more flowers. Stop removing faded blooms in early fall to encourage your rose bush to prepare for winter. If you grow roses that flower in clusters, like the grandiflora or floribunda types, you?ll notice a center bud that tends to dominate the cluster and flower first. If you remove it, the result will be a full floral spray without a hole in the center. Removing the center bud also helps prevent fungal diseases. On the other hand, if you grow hybrid tea roses, removing the buds that form below the flower bud at the top of stem will produce a larger flower.
Retain Moisture With Mulch You can keep more moisture in the ground and also help block weeds with a 3-inch covering of mulch, such as Scotts® Nature Scapes® Advanced Color Enhanced Mulch. Do not apply mulch within 6 inches of the base of your rose plants. And, ideally, the mulch used around roses should be completely replaced each spring to help control disease problems. Protecting Your Roses In Winter Roses need a little time to prepare for winter. Stop feeding them in late summer and removing faded blooms in early fall. This will encourage them to slow their growth and enter the dormant stage before winter. After a hard frost has caused most of the leaves to fall of the plant, cover the base of your rose bushes with a 10 to 12 inch layer of well-drained compost or mulch. If you live in a particularly cold climate, you can also wrap your rose bushes in burlap or cover them with extruded-foam caps (also known as rose cones) to help protect your roses during the winter. The key is to not cover your roses too early ? wait until the temperatures stay cold.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月04日
Dummer. ゛☀
Give your garden and outdoor living spaces a shot of steady, season-long color by planting marigolds. This popular annual flower is a garden favorite because they are easy to care for, grow well from seeds, and attract pollinators. Many varieties of marigolds can also help repel root-knot nematodes, microscopic worms that live in the soil and can damage vegetable and fruit plants. Here is everything you need to know to grow marigolds.
How to Choose Marigolds Before planting marigolds, decide which type you want to grow. The most commonly grown marigolds are African (also called American or Aztec) and French types. African marigolds have large flower heads (up to 5 inches across) on plants that grow from 10 to 36 inches tall, making them good for fresh cutting. French marigolds are smaller and bushier, with flowers up to 2 inches across on plants that are 6 to 18 inches tall. They are excellent for planting among taller plants in need of pollination. Where to Plant Marigolds When planting marigolds, choose a spot in full sun. In warmest regions, provide protection from the sun during the hottest part of the day. As you ponder where to plant, understand that these annual flowers crave fertile, well-drained soil. Marigolds planted in heavy clay soil that doesn’t drain well are usually not productive.
How to Water Marigolds When growing marigolds, check soil weekly: When the top inch is dry, it’s time to water. (Marigolds growing in containers may need more frequent watering.) Each time you water, be sure to drench the soil, and aim the nozzle or spout of your watering device toward the base of the plants. How to Care for Marigolds While growing marigolds, you may discover Japanese beetles on the blooms, especially the larger blossoms of the African types. Knock the beetles into soapy water to drown them, or spray plants with Ortho® Insect Killer Rose & Flower. You will also want to keep an eye out for spent flowers, and remove them as soon as you see them. This process is called deadheading, and it encourages plants to form new flower buds. Marigolds stand up to heat and humidity, but in the hottest regions, plants can enter a rest period during summer’s most sizzling days. Keep plants well-watered during this time. As soon as intense heat lifts, plants should resume blooming.
How to Use Marigolds In the garden, French marigolds create a colorful edging that beckons butterflies and other pollinators. African marigolds are ideal for picking for fresh arrangements. In addition to the beauty they offer, marigolds can also be planted as pest control in the vegetable garden or flower beds. They contain a chemical (thiophene) that helps control nematodes in soil. Marigold flowers make great additions to bouquets and dry well. You can also eat the petals, which have a slightly peppery flavor. Put them in salads or on baked goods, or add them to stir-fries. How to Pick Marigolds If you’re picking marigolds for bouquets or drying, cut blossoms in the morning or late afternoon. Harvest flowers for either use when they are fully open. Choose newly opened flowers for edible uses.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月04日
Dummer. ゛☀
Brighten a shady corner of your yard with a variety of gorgeous hostas. These leafy perennials bring color and texture to garden beds, yet don’t demand intense upkeep to look their best. In fact, the toughest part of growing hostas may simply be choosing which kind to grow. Here is everything you need to know to grow hostas. Where to Plant Hostas To plant hostas, select a spot that receives part to full shade. Most types of hostas can withstand morning, but prefer a shady setting. It’s important to know that these perennials grow best in soil that’s fertile and full of organic matter. Avoid planting hostas in heavy clay soil, which won’t offer enough drainage. In areas that receive a lot of snow in the winter, to protect stems and leaves, place hostas where snow tends to pile up.
How to Plant Hostas The best time of year to plant hostas is in early spring or early fall (as soon as summer heat breaks), and before the rainy season if your area has one. Hosta varieties come in different sizes. To determine the right spacing in the garden, check the plant tag. All but the smallest types of hostas typically take a few years to reach their full size, and it’s important to give plants enough elbow room to mature. When planting, place the plant so that the root ball is at the same depth in soil as it was in the pot. Afterwards, be sure to water well. How to Plant Hostas in Containers The right container size depends on how large your hosta will become. In general, use a pot that is at least 2 inches larger than the container the plant came in. If you plant a hosta in a pot that is several times larger than the one it came in, take care not to overwater. Until roots become well established, they will retain moisture longer, which provides an ideal breeding ground for root diseases. Once you have chosen the container, follow the planting guidelines listed above. How to Water Hostas It is especially important to give hostas consistent moisture during the first growing season, while they are taking root. Check the soil weekly (more often in the summertime), and water when the top inch is dry. Once hosta plants are firmly established, they can often survive on rainfall, except during times of drought. When growing hostas under trees, however, tree roots typically gobble available moisture, so you’ll need to water. The same goes with larger hostas, whose leaves can form a canopy that sheds overhead water, not allowing any to reach the ground (and their roots).
How to Divide Hostas Hostas typically grow best when they’re left alone to grow. Many hosta varieties don’t even reach maturity for five years. Once they have matured, however, you may want to divide them. Divide hostas in spring or early fall, before the rainiest part of the season arrives. If you just want to multiply your plants to place around your yard, simply dig up any smaller plants that have formed around the main clump and replant them. To divide a large clump, unearth it, digging out as many roots as possible. (With a large hosta, you may have to dig down 18 inches to get enough root mass.) Shift the plant onto a tarp, and use your hands, a shovel, or a knife to divide it into smaller sections. Replant the sections, following the guidelines above.
How to Use Hostas In the garden, try growing hostas to provide an eye-catching shade planting, as well as to attract hummingbirds. Planting multiple large hostas can form an effective ground cover or hedge. A row of hostas can also soften a fence, skirt a tree, or edge a driveway. Small types of hostas work well as edging plants in a shade bed. Hosta leaves make a nice addition to garden floral bouquets. If you’re growing hostas with different leaf colors, try creating an arrangement of leaves in a vase. Hosta flowers, especially the fragrant types, bring a sweet aroma to indoor settings. The flower stalk opens blooms from bottom to top, so it’s best to pick after at least one-half of the buds have opened.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月04日
Dummer. ゛☀
Sunflowers are such a colorful and whimsical addition to every garden. They’re easy to grow from seed, and make excellent cut flowers. There are hundreds of different varieties of sunflowers, including perennial varieties that come back every year. Home gardeners most commonly plant annual varieties (which last only one growing season), including both dwarf and tall varieties with multiple branches and dozens of blooms (perfect for cutting). The types of sunflowers grown especially for seed harvesting also fall into the category of annual flowers. You can find sunflowers with flower colors ranging from pale lemon yellow to orange, pink, burgundy, and bright yellow. There are also bi-color and multi-color varieties. No matter which you choose, let us teach you how to grow sunflowers for weeks of gorgeous flowers.
Where to Plant Sunflowers Sunflowers grow best in full, bright sun, and in evenly moist, well-drained soil. The amount of space they need depends on which varieties you are growing. Branching types with multiple blooms on one stem need more space horizontally than large single-flowered types. Take care to select a spot to grow taller varieties where they won’t throw too much shade on other shorter, sun-loving plants. The north side of a flower border is almost always a good spot. When to Plant Sunflowers Sunflowers are warm-weather plants. You can plant sunflowers outside at the same time you plant peppers, tomatoes, eggplants, zinnias, and other warm-season vegetables and flowers. For a longer sunflower bloom period, plant a row or grouping of sunflowers every two weeks for four to six weeks during the early summer. How to Prepare the Soil for Planting Sunflowers Make sure your plants get off to the best start! Prepare new in-ground planting areas with Miracle-Gro® All Purpose Garden Soil, mixing 3 inches of garden soil into the top 6 to 8 inches of native soil. This will feed new plants and help build strong roots, both of which will mean big, beautiful blooms!
How to Plant Sunflowers While you can start sunflowers from seed indoors, it’s just as easy to grow them from seed outdoors. Plant sunflower seeds directly into the garden when the soil is warm—at least fifty degrees Fahrenheit. Use your thumb to push seeds 1 to 2 inches deep into the soil. Depth and spacing depends on the variety, so read the instructions on the seed package. How to Water Sunflowers Water thoroughly at the time of planting and keep the planting area about as moist as a wrung-out sponge (not soggy) while the seeds are sprouting. Most sunflowers are fairly drought-tolerant once established, but will bloom better with regular water. To be on the safe side, water sunflowers well when the top two inches of soil are dry. How to Feed Sunflowers While sunflowers are not big feeders, you will get more and better blooms if you make sure they get a steady stream of nutrition. A month after planting, begin feeding sunflowers with Miracle-Gro® Water Soluble All Purpose Plant Food. Make sure to follow the directions on the package.
How to Stake Sunflowers Whether or not you need to stake your sunflowers depends on how tall they get, the strength of the stems, and the branching pattern. If you’re growing a bunch of sunflowers for cut flowers, you can plant the seeds and then create a latticework of stakes and twine for the plants to grow up through. Create two rows of staggered stakes with 3 feet in between each stake. Run twine around the stakes to create a wide lattice. You can also stake individual plants that are beginning to droop by placing a sturdy stake 3 inches from the plant stem and tying the stem to the stake, loosely, with twine in a couple of places.
How to Avoid Pest Problems with Sunflowers Squirrels and chipmunks can be a problem when you first plant sunflower seeds, as they love to dig them up and eat them. Shake some ground cayenne pepper on the ground around where you’ve planted the seeds. If that doesn’t deter them, try starting seeds indoors and then planting them outside once they have sprouted. If you’re growing sunflowers for seed, these pests can be a problem near the time of harvest as well. When the outer petals dry up, cover the large flower heads with lightweight cloth tied around the stem. How to Harvest Sunflower Seeds Cut the large flower heads off when the back of the large flower disk has turned black and the seed heads are dry. Leave in a cool, dry place for a few days to completely dry out, and then remove the seeds by gently rubbing the flower heads with your thumbs. Keep dried seeds in a breathable paper or cloth bag to prevent mold growth.
How to Grow Sunflowers: Recap Plant in a sunny location with moist, well-drained soil. Prepare the existing soil by adding Miracle-Gro® All Purpose Garden Soil. Sow seeds directly in the garden when the soil warms up in the spring. Water seeds at the time of planting and regularly throughout the growing season. Feed sunflowers with Miracle-Gro® Water Soluble All Purpose Plant Food, starting a month after planting. Stake sunflowers if they have multiple branches or heavy flower heads. Prevent pests from digging up newly planted seeds and from eating seed heads you hope to harvest. Harvest flower heads when the back has turned black and the seeds have dried out.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月04日
Dummer. ゛☀
What we think of as the quintessential southern plant, the azalea, is actually mostly native to Asia. There are a few native to the United States, but the plants with huge flowers in pink, white, red, burgundy, and coral are imports. No matter! They’re a must-have in zones 6 to 9 for their amazing spring show. As shrubs go, azaleas are of the “little work, big reward” variety, so they’re definitely worth considering for your own garden and landscape. Here’s how to grow azaleas. How to Choose Azaleas There are thousands of azalea varieties?too many to list. The best way to select the right one for your garden is to consider the area you have available. If you have a small space garden, look for a dwarf or smaller type. If you have lots of space to fill, some of the older Formosa varieties are great choices. Several companies offer re-blooming varieties, which bloom multiple times during the year. Some of these can get quite big, so do your research before buying.
Where to Plant Azaleas Select a location that has morning sun and afternoon shade, or filtered light. Hot all-day sun can stress the plants and make them more susceptible to pests. Azaleas also require well-drained, acidic soil. Ideally, you would want to test the soil pH using a soil testing kit. If the pH is higher than 6.0, lower it by applying aluminum sulfate to the soil according to package instructions. How to Plant Azaleas When planting azaleas, spacing depends on the variety you’re growing. Larger bushes require more space than smaller types. It’s tempting to plant small bushes close together, but you will end up chopping down every other azalea bush if you do that. Read the plant tag to determine correct spacing, then follow these steps: 1.Set plants where you plan to plant. 2.Dig a planting hole that is twice as wide and just as deep as the root ball of the plant. 3.Remove the plant from its container and place it in the planting hole so the top of the root ball is even with the soil line. 4.Fill in around the plant with the soil you removed mixed in a 50:50 ratio with Miracle-Gro® Garden Soil for Trees & Shrubs. This will give the plants instant nutrition and help them grow strong roots. 5.Water thoroughly. 6.Spread a layer of mulch around the plant’s roots, taking care not to mound it against the plant. This will help keep the soil moist.
How to Water Azaleas Thoroughly soak the soil two to three times per week during the first two months after planting. You can gradually decrease the frequency of watering as the plants become rooted. After three or four months, watering deeply once per week should be sufficient. After the first growing season, plants should not need supplemental water unless it hasn’t rained for two or more weeks.
How to Feed Azaleas A month after planting, begin feeding azaleas with Miracle-Gro® Water Soluble Azalea, Camellia, Rhododendron Plant Food. In addition to the main plant nutrients, this fertilizer also includes micronutrients such as iron, manganese, and zinc, which are vital for growing azaleas (and other acidic soil-loving plants). Be sure to follow label directions. How to Prune Azaleas to Control Size and Shape If you selected azalea types that are good fits for the place they’re growing, you shouldn’t have to prune azaleas hard every year. The best time to prune azaleas is in the spring, right after they bloom. Start by using hand pruners or loppers to remove any branches that stick out significantly from the rest of the bush. Cut those back to a main branch. Then, decide whether you need to shorten the shrub. To significantly reduce size, cut branches back to a whorl (circle) of leaves farther down on the bush. Always make sure to prune so the bottom of the bush is slightly wider than the top, so sunlight can reach all the leaves. How to Prune Azaleas to Renew Growth Old, overgrown azaleas, or azaleas with an empty center, can be rejuvenated with a harsh trim. Renewal pruning is done in the late winter or early spring, before flowering. (You’ll have to go a year without flowers when you do this.)
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月04日
Dummer. ゛☀
How to Choose Hydrangeas There are several types of hydrangea plants. Most grow as shrubs, although there is one vine, called climbing hydrangea. Mophead and lacecap types, perhaps the most common hydrangeas in zones 6 through 9, can fill many roles in the landscape. To grow hydrangeas as a hedge, choose panicle, smooth, or oakleaf hydrangea, which also offers good fall leaf color. If you are planning to grow hydrangeas in full shade, choose oakleaf hydrangea or the climbing type. If you’re planting hydrangeas in colder regions, panicle hydrangea (the type that can be grown as a tree) is the one you want, as it is the most winter-hardy. Where to Plant Hydrangeas The most important factors when choosing where to plant hydrangeas are light and moisture. In the South, plant them where they will receive morning sunlight and afternoon shade. With these conditions, you can grow the extremely popular French (also called bigleaf) hydrangea or panicle hydrangea. In northern regions, these same types of hydrangeas will grow in all-day sun. The name hydrangea contains the root word “hydra” (like in hydration), which gives a clue about how much water these plants need. Make sure the spot you select is close to a water source. Know, too, that French hydrangeas tend to need the most water to thrive.
What Kind of Soil to Use for Hydrangeas To grow hydrangeas in planting beds, focus on improving the native soil. One simple way to do that is to combine equal parts existing soil and Miracle-Gro® Garden Soil for Trees and Shrubs. In warmer regions (zones 7 and warmer), where winter tends to be mild, you can also grow hydrangeas in containers. Create just the right environment for them by filling pots with Miracle-Gro® Moisture Control® Potting Mix. It is worth noting that mophead and lacecap hydrangeas both change flower color based on soil pH, which is a measure of how alkaline or acidic the soil is. Flowers turn pink to red in alkaline soil, and lavender to blue in acidic soil. When to Plant Hydrangeas When you see hydrangea plants for sale at local garden centers, that’s usually the right time for planting. This timing will vary by region. For instance, in areas with winter freezing and snow, hydrangeas should be planted in early spring or early fall (as soon as summer heat breaks). In warmer regions with mild winters, the window for planting hydrangeas is longer, from fall all the way through to early spring.
How to Plant Hydrangeas How far apart to space plants depends on what type of hydrangea you’re growing. It’s best to check the plant tag. Note that hydrangeas planted in the shade tend to grow a little larger and spread a little more. When planting hydrangeas, dig a hole that is twice as wide as the width of the container the hydrangea came in. Place the plant in the hole so that the root ball is at the same depth as it was in the original pot, then fill in the hole with the 50-50 soil mixture described above. Water well after planting. How to Plant Hydrangeas in Containers To plant hydrangeas in containers, again check that plants are at the same depth as they were growing previously. How large a container to use depends on how large your hydrangea will grow. Typically, it’s safe to start with a pot 2 inches larger than the container the plant is currently in.How to Water Hydrangeas Water deeply after planting, making sure to soak the root ball and surrounding soil. If the hydrangeas are dormant (without leaves), you may not need to water again until growth resumes. Hydrangeas thrive in consistently moist soil. Check the soil at least once a week. When the top inch of soil is dry, it’s time to water. Once hydrangeas are established, they typically survive on rainfall, except during times of drought.How to Mulch Hydrangeas After planting hydrangeas, apply a 2- to 3-inch-thick mulch layer around (but not on) the plants. Mulch helps keep soil moist and weeds at bay by blocking the weeds’ growth and access to sunlight. Choose whichever mulch looks best in your landscape: Scotts® bagged mulch, shredded leaves, pine straw, or some other locally available material. How to Feed Hydrangeas Fertilize hydrangeas in early spring as new growth appears and again just before summer. Avoid feeding hydrangeas after August, especially in regions with cold winters. A slow-release plant food works well. For best results, try Miracle-Gro® Shake ’n Feed® Flowering Trees & Shrubs Plant Food, which feeds for up to 3 months. How to Prune Hydrangeas When to prune hydrangeas hinges on the type of hydrangea you’re growing. Both French and oakleaf hydrangeas flower on old wood (last year’s stems), so you should prune plants right after flowering is finished. Smooth and panicle hydrangeas flower on new growth, which means you can prune stems in late winter to early spring. In general, as long as you give hydrangeas enough elbow room to spread and reach their mature size, you shouldn’t have to do too much pruning beyond cutting out dead or damaged wood.
How to Protect Hydrangeas in Winter In colder areas, many gardeners erect a burlap screen around oakleaf and French hydrangeas in an effort to help protect flower buds that have already formed for the next year. The most important aspect of winter protection, however, is making sure the hydrangea you’re growing is hardy in your gardening zone. How to Use Hydrangeas Hydrangeas can fill multiple roles in the garden. Plant a hydrangea privacy hedge, or use them as a foundation planting around a home. A single hydrangea can be the focal point of a garden, and potted hydrangeas can bring beauty to a deck or entry garden. Hydrangeas also integrate well into mixed borders of shrubs and perennials, and make a natural-looking addition to a woodland setting. Fresh hydrangea flowers are a favorite for filling vases and adorning wedding bouquets. If you want to dry hydrangea blooms, most experts suggest waiting to let flowers age and dry naturally on the plant. Harvest at the color stage you prefer.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月04日
Dummer. ゛☀
Materials Spade, hand pruners, loppers, gloves, garden hose and watering wand or nozzle, Miracle-Gro® Garden Soil for Roses or Miracle-Gro® Garden Soil for Flowers or Miracle-Gro® Potting Mix, Miracle-Gro® Shake ’n Feed® Rose & Bloom Plant Food, garden rake, bucket, measuring tape.
How to Choose the Right Roses for Your Garden Roses are not one size fits all—there are multiple types, from shrub roses to hybrid tea roses, climbing roses, and groundcover roses. The first step in growing roses is selecting the right rose bush or rose plant for your yard or garden. Roses, regardless of the type, grow best in full sun in well-drained soil. Putting the right plant in the right place goes a long way toward growing healthy plants. So which rose is right for you? Shrub roses are great choices for landscape beds and foundation plantings next to the house. They tend to bloom a few times during the season. There are many new options that are pest and disease resistant. Groundcover roses add a bit of color to hot, dry, sunny areas. They’re drought-tolerant and beautiful when allowed to spill over a wall. Climbing roses are a little less cold hardy than shrub roses, so check the plant information carefully when purchasing. Hybrid teas are the classic ?bouquet? rose, and require the most hands-on care. They’ll reward you with gorgeous cut flowers, though. How to Plant Roses Once you’ve selected the sunny, well-drained spot for planting, it’s time to prepare the soil. The way you plant a rose depends on whether it is bareroot (usually sold with roots in a bag with some moist wood chips but no soil) or growing in a pot (container-grown) when you get it. To plant bareroot roses: 1.Remove plants from their packaging and soak their roots in a bucket of tepid water for an hour. 2.Use a measuring tape to measure the length of the roots (from the tip of the roots to where the roots meet the stem). 3.Dig a hole that is two inches shallower than the length of the roots and twice as wide. 4.Mix equal parts of Miracle-Gro® Garden Soil for Roses (or Miracle-Gro® Garden Soil for Flowers) and the soil removed from the planting hole. If planting in a container, use with Miracle-Gro® Potting Mix. Either way, you are helping ensure that roses receive ample nutrition while establishing new roots in the garden. 5.Using the soil mixture (or potting mix for containers), build a mound in the planting hole that almost reaches to top of the hole. 6.Spread the roots evenly over the mound. 7.Fill in the hole completely with more of the soil mixture, covering the roots. Pack it firmly. 8.Spread a 2-inch layer of mulch on the surface of the planting hole, to help conserve moisture in the soil. 9.Water thoroughly. To plant roses that come in containers: 1.Remove rose plant from the pot. 2.Use measuring tape to measure the height of the root ball. 3.Dig a planting hole that is two inches shallower than the height of the root ball, and twice as wide. 4.Place the plant in the planting hole. The top of the root ball should be about an inch above the edge of the hole. (Soil will settle over time, so you don’t want to plant the rose too deep.) 5.Mix equal parts of Miracle-Gro® Garden Soil for Roses (or Miracle-Gro® Garden Soil for Flowers) and the soil removed from the planting hole, and fill in around the shrub. Cover the top of the root ball with an inch of the soil mixture. If planting in a pot, use Miracle-Gro® Potting Mix. 6.Cover the surface of the planting hole with 2 inches of mulch, to help keep soil moist. 7.Water thoroughly.
How to Water Roses Roses need well-drained soil to flourish, but that doesn’t mean they don’t need water. Regular watering is especially important as roses are establishing new roots in the landscape. Roses are fairly drought-tolerant after the first growing season. For the first 2 months after you first plant a rosebush, give the plant a deep, thorough soaking 2-3 times per week with a hose. If you reach your finger into the soil and the top 2 inches are still moist, however, wait a few days. For the remainder of the first growing season, water thoroughly a couple of times per week.. Once plants are established in the landscape, you will only need to water roses during drought conditions. If the leaves take on a greyish cast or being to curl, you’ll know the plants need water. Whenever you water, void getting water on the leaves (an invitation to disease) by directly aiming the water stream at the roots of each plant. How to Fertilize Roses First, allow the plants to get settled in the garden. Then, after the first month, feed plants with Miracle-Gro® Shake ’n Feed® Rose & Bloom Plant Food to help replace the nutrition your growing roses have taken up from the soil, so your plant will produce beautiful blooms. Be sure to follow label directions. How to Prune Roses Prune roses in very early spring, while they are still dormant. Prune to reduce overall size by cutting each branch back to an outward-facing bud. Roses can be cut back hard, but we don’t recommend removing more than one-third to one-half of the overall growth. Wear gloves and long sleeves to protect your hands, and use loppers or hand pruners. Do not shear roses. Remove old, diseased, or dead wood by cutting the affected branches down to the bottom of the plant. Promote airflow within the shrub by removing crossing or rubbing branches within the center of the shrub. Always cut back to an outward-facing bud. You can remove up to one-half of the growth from within the center of the shrub to promote air movement.
How to Control Rose Pests Roses can be affected by a variety of fungal, bacterial, and insect issues. Providing the plants with the good care outlined above goes a long way toward preventing these problems, but it isn’t fail-safe. Treat problems with aphids, Japanese beetles, and other pests with Ortho® Rose & Flower Insect Killer Ready-to-Use. For diseases such as black spot and rust, use Ortho® Rose & Flower Insect & Disease Control. Or, consult with your local cooperative extension service for the best course of treatment. How to Grow Roses: Recap Select the best type of rose for your garden location. Prepare the soil and plant the rose bush according to instructions (bareroot or container-grown). Water regularly while the plant is getting established, and in times of drought after the first growing season. Feed roses regularly with Miracle-Gro® plant food. Prune roses when dormant. Watch out for pests and disease.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月03日
Dummer. ゛☀
Family - Asteraceae Stems - To 1.5m tall, erect, herbaceous, glabrous, glaucous, hollow, with milky sap, branching above in inflorescence, single from stout taproot or stolons. Leaves - Alternate, sessile, clasping, glabrous, dentate (the teeth with minute prickle tips), to +30cm long, reduced above. Lower leaves lyrate pinnatifid. Upper leaves oblong-linear.
Inflorescence - Loose corymbiform arrangement of flower heads terminating branches of inflorescence. Peduncles glabrous or with glandular pubescence. Each division of inflorescence subtended by small scalelike attenuate bract. Involucre - Cylindrical to urceolate, to 1.4cm tall (long) in flower, 8-9mm in diameter. Phyllaries in two or three series. Outer most phyllaries small. Inner phyllaries to 1.6mm long, 2mm broad, linear, with scarious margins, spreading to slightly recurved at apex, glabrous or with glandular pubescence, with darker green midvein, appressed.
Ray flowers - Head to 5cm broad. Flowers fertile. Ligules yellow, -3cm long, 3-4 toothed at apex, glabrous. Corolla tube whitish, pubescent. Pappus of numerous capillary bristles to 1.2cm long. Achene 1mm long in flower(+3mm long in fruit), pubescent. Receptacle slightly concave.
Disk flowers - Absent. Flowering - June - October. Habitat - Waste ground, roadsides, railroads. Origin - Native to Eurasia. Other info. - This is definitely the most showy member of the genus in Missouri. The large flower heads are unmistakable. Unfortunately, the plant is introduced and should not be willingly spread. It is very aggressive and is becoming quite widespread. Two varieties of the species can be found. Variety glabrescencs (Geunth.) Grab. & Wimm. (pictured above) has glabrous phyllaries and peduncles. A synonym for this variety is var. uliginosus (Bieb.) Nyman. Variety arvensis has peduncles and phyllaries which are glandular pubescent.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月03日
Dummer. ゛☀
Family - Asteraceae Stems - To 1.5m tall, erect, herbaceous, from slightly thickened roots and horizontal rhizomes, terete, densely pubescent (at least in the middle and upper portions), retrorse pubescent near the base, simple except in the inflorescence. Leaves - Basal rosette absent at anthesis. Cauline leaves reduced from the base of the plant to the apex, alternate, sessile. Blades lanceolate near the bottom of the plant becoming elliptic to ovate neat the apex, to +7cm long, +/-2cm broad, shallow crenate-serrate along the entire margin. Veins very impressed above giving the leaf a rugose appearance, veins expressed below. Blades scabrous adaxially and dull green, pubescent on the veins abaxially and lighter than the adaxial side.
Inflorescence - Pyramidal, paniculate arrangement of flowering branches and flower heads. Inflorescence branches pubescent, to +10cm long. Each flower head with a minute bract at the base of its peduncle. Bracts green, subulate, 1mm long. Flower heads secund on inflorescence branches. Peduncles 1-3mm long, pubescent. Involucre - 2-4mm high (long), -2mm in diameter, light green. Phyllaries imbricate, glabrous, obtuse at the apex. Longest phyllaries to 2-3mm long, -1mm broad.
Ray flowers - 5-9 per head, pistillate. Ligule elliptic, notched at the apex, glabrous, yellow, 2mm long, 1mm broad. Corolla tube +/-2mm long, greenish-translucent, glabrous, thin. Stigmas exserted, yellowish to reddish, +?-1mm long. Pappus of capillary bristles, white, antrorse barbellate, 2-3mm long, uniseriate. Disk flowers - +/-5 per head, perfect. Corolla 5-lobed, 2-3mm long, expanded and yellow in the apical half, contracted and greenish in the basal half, glabrous. Lobes acute, spreading, 1mm long, .6mm broad, subulate. Stamens 5, adnate at the base of the expanded portion of the corolla tube. Filaments wanting. Anthers yellow, connate around the style, partially exserted, 1.5mm long. Stigmas lanceolate, yellow, -1mm long, mostly remaining erect, exserted beyond the anthers. Pappus as ray flowers. Achene retrorse pubescent in flower. Mature achenes not seen.
Flowering - August - October. Habitat - Wet ground of swales, swampy meadows and thickets, borders of spring branches, borders of streams, wet prairies, occasional on dry sandy knolls and ledges. Origin - Native to U.S. Other info. - This goldenrod species can be found in the southeast corner of Missouri. The plant can be identified by its habitat, rhizomes, pubescent stems, and sessile, rugose leaves. Steyermark broke the species up into three varieties based on stem pubescence and inflorescence shape. These varieties are no longer valid.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月03日
Dummer. ゛☀
Family - Asteraceae Stems - To 1m tall, erect, herbaceous, fro a vertical caudex and slightly thickened roots, terete, glabrescent basally, hispidulous with multicellular hairs in the apical 1/2.
Leaves - Alternate, the basal and lower-most petiolate, sessile above. Petioles of the basal leaves to +20cm long, with a very narrow adaxial groove, mostly glabrous but with some hairs in the groove. Blades to +/-20cm long, +/-8cm broad, scabrous above and below, greyish because of dense hairs below, elliptic-lanceolate, shallow serrate, acute, tapering slightly at the base. Cauline leaves sessile, quickly reduced upward, shallow crenate-serrate, densely pubescent (with a greyish cast), scabrous, those in the middle of the stem oblanceolate. Leaves in the apical 1/3 of the stem reduced to bracts, ovate to orbicular.
Inflorescence - Terminal corymbiform arrangement of flowerheads. Peduncles densely hispidulous. Each division of the inflorescence subtended by a small foliaceous bract. Involucre - To +8mm long (tall), 5mm in diameter, cylindric. Phyllaries imbricate, appressed, unequal, the longest to 6mm long, 2mm broad, rounded at the apex, greenish (mostly at the apex), scarious below, with a green midrib, glabrous internally and externally, with ciliolate margins, oblong.
Ray flowers - Flowers 8-10 per flowerhead, fertile, pistillate. Corolla tube 4mm long, glabrous, yellowish. Ligule 4mm long, 2mm broad, yellow, glabrous or with a few sparse hairs, rounded at the apex. Style purplish, glabrous, thin, 5mm long, bifurcate. Stigmas 1mm long. Pappus of capillary bristles, white, 5mm long. Bristles antrorse barbellate. Achene green in flower, 2.2mm long, ribbed, glabrous. Disk flowers - Disk corollas yellow, contracted and thin in the basal 2/3, expanded in the upper 1/3, 5mm long, 5-lobed, glabrous or with a few small hairs. Lobes acute, spreading, 1.1mm long. Stamens 5, adnate in the basal 1/3 of the corolla tube. Filaments glabrous, compressed, thin, glabrous, yellowish. Anthers yellow, 2.5mm long, connate around the style, partially to wholly exserted, acute at the apices. Style exserted, purplish, bifurcate for about 1mm. Stigmas erect (mostly). Pappus and achenes as the ray flowers. Flowering - August - October. Habitat - Prairies, glades, rocky open ground, thickets, borders of wet meadows. Origin - Native to U.S. Other info. - This showy species can be found throughout most of Missouri but is apparently absent in the southeast corner of the state. The plant is easy to identify in the field because of its big basal leaves and large, showy flowerheads. It has larger flowerheads than any other Solidago species in Missouri. This is a characteristic plant of prairies and is certainly worthy of cultivation as it is drought tolerant and requires little care.
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