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Miss Chen
2018年09月10日
Miss Chen
梅雨时期很多植物都都会或多或少遭受一些病虫害的侵入，而此时也需要我们格外的用心去照顾它们。而杜鹃的花期在5-8月，由于不同的品种可能花期也会存在一定延迟。而作为夏季6-7月份的梅雨季节，恰逢杜鹃盆景花枝招展、竞相开放的季节，虽然在这个时间段更加适合赏花，同时也需要及时做好养护管理工作。否则，如果呵护不到位的话，可能引起花叶焦枯脱落的现象，这对于盆景而言是莫大的损失，对于赏花者而言，也必然让人感到遗憾，毕竟盆景的观赏价值会大打折扣。
从夏季的6月到七月上旬期间恰逢是梅雨季，同时也正是杜鹃开花抽叶、发枝旺盛的时期，所以需要尽可能为其提供光照。只要不是被长时间暴晒，一般不会对开花造成什么影响。但如果在烈日当空的晴天，一般从上午9点到下午4点之间这段时间需要及时采取必要的遮阴措施，以避免烈日灼伤花叶而出现杜鹃出现花叶焦枯脱落的现象。但仅此还不够，以为杜鹃耐寒而不耐热，当气温高于30°C时，往往脱水比较严重，同时也容易出现休眠现象，所以为了确保其在梅雨季开花旺盛，遮阴、降温、保湿等工作一定要做好。 杜鹃盆景在梅雨季出现花叶焦枯脱落的现象，主要是光照过强、气温太高、脱水严重等因素造成的。所以，为了避免这种现象的发生，我们首先需要将杜鹃盆景摆放在相对凉爽、通风顺畅的环境中养护，同时做好遮阴工作，一般为其提供半阴的环境即可。当然，确保杜鹃盆景在梅雨季不会出现花叶焦枯脱落的现象，仅仅靠遮阴通风的条件还不够，我们还需要及时做好补水工作。 杜鹃本身是比较喜欢湿润但不耐高温的生长环境，所以当发现盆土变干时要及时浇水，多在早上9点之前或下午4点之后进行。而为了达到降温保湿的效果，我们还需要结合喷水进行，尤其是在像梅雨季的6-7月这种炎热的夏季环境下，更应该多喷洒叶面水和地面水。喷洒叶面水和地面水除了可以起到保湿降温的作用之外，也可以让杜鹃盆景的叶片更显干净、鲜绿，而实现鲜花配绿叶的效果，提高盆景的观赏价值。不过浇水不宜太多，否则仍然可能引起落花的。
当然一般情况下，处于花期的花卉植物是不宜进行追肥的，尤其是处于梅雨季且不耐高温的杜鹃盆景，更应该在花期停止追肥。除此之外，也需要做好病虫害的管理，因为在湿热通风差的环境下，杜鹃盆景比较容易感染病虫害。相信只要通过大家对杜鹃盆景进行精心的呵护和管理，梅雨季出现花叶焦枯脱落的现象会逐渐消失的，而盆景的观赏效果也能得到保障。
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Miss Chen
2018年09月10日
Miss Chen
提起酸角梅，不知你的口水有没有悄悄的留出来。小时候很爱吃的一种小零食，那种酸爽恐怕很难忘怀吧。那么家中盆栽酸角梅怎么保养呢？ 酸角树可以通过采收成熟种子在春秋两季进行播种的方式来种植出一盆盆创意十足的小盆栽，将其摆放在茶几、窗台、阳台等地方，不仅能为环境带来一抹绿意，同时也能给人带来一种小清新的视觉享受。不过，在酸角顺利出苗成为小盆栽之后，养护管理工作却不能忽视。看着一片枝叶繁茂、翠绿青葱的酸角树小盆栽，怎么无不忍心看见其遭到破坏，所以保养工作必须要做好。那么，酸角树盆栽怎么保养呢？
养护管理工作室盆栽种养过程中必不可少的一个重要部分，而其中又包括多种管理手段。但除了生长环境之外，盆栽的生长及观赏状态往往又与这些管护手段的实施是否科学合理有着比较直接的联系。酸角盆栽的观赏价值在很大程度上受到管理手段的影响，只要管理好了，盆栽自然长势更好，观赏效果也更佳；但如果管理不当或不到位，不仅会影响盆栽的观赏效果，甚至还能引起一系列生长问题。而在日常的养护管理过程中，我们主要做好以下几个方面的工作： 一、土壤 良好的土壤环境是盆栽植物保持最佳生长状态的基础条件之一，对于酸角这种植物而言亦是如此。所以，我们在给酸角配制盆土的过程中，丝毫也不能太草率和马虎。只不过酸角本身对土壤也不是十分挑剔，只要我们能根据其生长习性来培土即可。一般我们需要为其提供肥沃疏松、透气透水的盆土环境，可以使用腐殖土与沙土混合搭配，拌匀后使用。 二、光照 酸角是一种喜阳性树种，生长过程中需要充足的光照，尤其是在花果期，更要光照充分。只要不将其摆放在夏季的烈日下或太强的直射光下，一般还是比较安全的，不会轻易被晒伤。但处于小苗期的酸角树一定要控制好光线强度，毕竟酸角幼树生长较弱，根系欠发达，植株尚且稚嫩，如果光线太强的话就容易被晒伤。但如果大家为了便于欣赏将酸角盆栽摆放在室内养护时，一定要选择一个向阳、便于接收光线的明亮地方。因为酸角长时间在比较隐蔽的环境中容易出现各种生长不良的现象。 三、温度 酸角比较喜欢温暖的生长环境，最适宜生长温度保持在25°C左右。而温度是影响酸角树生长的主要生态因素之一，这也是之所以在我国南方地区种植酸角比北方地区更为适宜的原因所在，因为我国南方地区温暖湿润，更适合酸角的生长。而且酸角本身也比较耐热，在光照充足、天气高热、环境湿润的南方地区能保持良好的生长状态，甚至是在干旱、炎热、光强、水少、土贫的漠地带也能容易存活。 四、浇水 酸角比较喜欢湿润的生长环境，但并不耐水，所以浇水一般等到盆土变干，出现轻微干旱的情况下在浇水比较合适。而且浇水也需要浇透水，避免出现浇半截水的现象，而且浇水也不能过量，所以需要掌握好浇水的频率和水量，避免出现盆土长期过于潮湿或有积水的现象，否则会对根系造成给一定伤害，从而影响植株的正常生长。因此，我们浇水一般采取“干透浇透”的原则。 五、施肥 酸角树对肥料的依赖程度不高，但也比较喜欢肥沃疏松的土质环境，所以施肥不宜太多，适量就好。一般在幼树期和成树抽梢期间以追施氮肥为主，但应当采取“薄肥勤施”的原则，能促进植株的正常生长即可，春秋两季可以结合使用少量尿素进行追肥。作为盆栽种养的酸角小树，往往对养分需求量并不大，但在花果期往往会因开花结果会消耗大量的养分而应当多施入一些磷钾肥，少施入氮肥。平时可以保持每个月浇施一次稀薄且腐熟的饼肥水即可满足生长需要。
六、修剪 对于盆栽酸角树而言，为了保持保持盆栽的可观赏性，我们有必要对其进行整形修剪处理。由于酸角是一种比较高大的树种，而作为盆栽种养，我们要尽可能将其矮化以便于欣赏。为了达到控制株形高度的目的，从幼树期开始，我们需要及时通过采取短截手段来矮化树冠，而且还需要在第一年或第二年剪除掉植株的脚枝、密生枝、细长枝等，保留1-2个主干即可。而对于成树的修剪，一般在采果之后、抽春梢之前，将老弱枯枝、生长过密枝、交叉枝、徒长枝等形式的枝条予以剪除，从而提高树体通风透光性，从而达到促壮结果枝与提高观赏性的目的。 除此之外，为了提高盆栽酸角的观赏价值，在植株刚萌发新芽且叶片长到一半尚且处于嫩叶状态的时候，我们也可以对盆栽施用一些多效唑，这样可以在一定程度上促进枝叶老化，让观赏效果更佳。
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Miss Chen
2018年09月10日
Miss Chen
Growing beautiful stargazer lilies seems like a daunting task--how can such a strikingly unique and unusually large flower that seems to defy gravity be easy to grow? It is, however, with a little instruction and a few tips, you too can bring these jaw-dropping beauties into your landscape.Stargazer lilies will last for years with the proper care, and grows easily in zones 4-8.
Determine the location for your stargazer bulbs, and for each bulb, dig a hole three times the bulb's height. Remove any rocks that might impede the growth of the stalk when it emerges. Place the bulb in the hole with the pointy side up–if in doubt, plant the bulb sideways. Cover the bulb with soil and sprinkle with a small amount of fertilizer. Bulbs may be planted in the fall or in the spring. Step 2 Water the emerging plants regularly, although they don't mind drought periods as long as the roots remain cool. Overwatering may cause the plants to rot, so it's best to err on the side of caution as far as water is concerned.Too much water may also attract slugs, which find lily leaves delicious. If slugs are a problem, place saucers of beer around the plant at night, which attracts them and they drown. Step 3 Fertilize the plants in June, July and August with a light application of general purpose fertilizer around the base of the plant.
Deadhead the flower after it has finished blooming, which allows the plant to focus on its bulb, not setting seeds. Simply clip off the flower and about 6 inches of the stem below the flower. Leave the rest of the stem until fall, when you can cut back the entire plant to 3 inches.
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Miss Chen
2018年09月10日
Miss Chen
There are few flowers that are as beautiful as a simple daisy. They can dress up well manicured flower beds and also look magnificent among roadside weeds. While daisies are a favorite flower of summer no matter where they are growing, what if they are located in a spot that just doesn't support them anymore? Can you move them to a different part of the lawn or bring them home from that roadside roost? Absolutely, if you time it just right and know what you are doing.
Step 1 When selecting a site for daisies, it is important to place them in a location with full sun. The best time of the year to transplant is spring, which will allow the root systems to take before winter. Some choose to transplant daisies right after they bloom in early summer. Step 2 Prepare the new bed that the daisies will be moving to. Dig a hole twice the size and almost twice as deep as the root ball you are digging up. Fill the hole with water. Even though this will absorb before the new plants come in, it will assure that the new area is moist and will encourage the roots to take. Step 3 If you are transplanting daisies by moving them from ground they are already planted in, you want to dig an extra 5 inches out from around the roots. If you are moving some daisies from a large clump, this will give you more that are likely to survive any transplant shock. The larger the root ball area is, the less shock damage will be done to the roots. Step 4 Once you have the root ball dug, do not shake any dirt from it if at all possible. This will help keep the root ball intact and minimize shock. Place the root ball into the new location. Cover with dirt mixed with a third of mulch. Water again and if any dirt seems to have run off the roots, be sure to add more to cover. Tamp the dirt down again.
Keep your plants well watered for 3 weeks until the roots have a chance to become grounded in the new location. Sit back and enjoy the beauty of the daisies.
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Miss Chen
2018年09月10日
Miss Chen
Named for their large, broad leaves, elephant ears (Colocasia spp.) are moisture loving plants that can grow in up to 6 inches of standing water. Colocasia esculenta, which is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 10, is a commonly grown variety of elephant ears. Also called taro, this elephant ears variety usually grows 3 to 6 feet tall and wide, and features boldly veined leaves up to 2 feet long. Uncooked elephant ears are poisonous, and the plants are invasive in some areas of the United States.
Transplanting Time The best time for transplanting elephant ears is when new growth appears in spring. Elephant ears sprout from tubers in spring and quickly grow into large, spreading clumps. In frost-free areas elephant ears can be transplanted any time of year, but transplanting when the plants are small is easiest. In areas of the United States that experience frosts, elephant ears must be transplanted after the final local average frost date. If late frosts threaten after the plants have been transplanted, cover elephant ears with old sheets or several layers of newspaper overnight. Growing Spot A sheltered, partially shaded spot with organically rich, medium moisture or wet soil provides the best growing conditions for transplanted elephant ears. These plants also need protection from strong winds. In a wet site, such as the edge of a pond, elephant ears tolerate up to eight hours of direct sunlight, but the plants grow best in filtered sun or shade during the hottest part of the day. Improve the soil for elephant ears by mixing in organic matter before transplanting. Spread a 4-inch layer of garden compost or aged manure over the growing spot and mix it 12 inches deep into the soil with a garden fork. Planting Hole Elephant ears can establish quickly in wide planting holes. These vigorous plants can grow up to 8 feet tall in one growing season in ideal conditions and produce tubers that weigh 1 to 2 pounds. Dig a hole as deep as an elephant ear's root ball and twice as wide. Remove the plant from its container and place it in the center of the hole. The plant should sit at its original growing depth. Holding the elephant ears plant upright with one hand, scoop the dug soil into the hole with the other hand until you fill the hole. Gently press the soil around the plant with the flats of your hands to firm the plant in the hole.
Watering Elephant Ears Regular watering is essential for newly transplanted elephant ears. Spray water over the growing spot using a garden hose fitted with a soft spray attachment. When the water puddles, stop watering and wait an hour. Test the soil moisture level by pushing your fingers into it. If the soil is moist but not wet, water the plants again. Don't allow the soil around elephant ears to dry out. Water elephant ears when the soil surface begins to dry or more frequently.
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Miss Chen
2018年09月10日
Miss Chen
For a dramatic statement in your flower bed, try growing lupines (Lupinus spp.). These herbaceous perennials have mounds of bright green leaves and produce compact spikes of flowers that can grow upwards to 42 inches tall -- perfect for attracting bees, hummingbirds and butterflies. The flowers of these legumes come in a range of colors from white, cream, pink, rose-mauve, pale yellow, all shades of blue and all shades of violet, including one so dark it's nearly black. Lupines generally thrive in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 to 7, depending on the species and cultivar.
Step 1 Select a well-drained site with full sunlight or semi-shade; tall varieties of lupines may need protection from the wind. The soil does not need to be particularly rich, but it should be neutral to slightly acidic. Test the soil and add sulfur or peat moss several weeks before planting to adjust its pH to between 6.8 and 7.2. Because lupines bloom early in the season and may look unsightly after flowering, place them near the back of the flower bed. Step 2 Transplant lupines in the spring. Dig a hole that is larger than the plant's container. Carefully remove the lupine from the container and gently loosen the roots with your fingers. Place the plant in the hole, fill the hole with soil and tamp down gently to remove air spaces. Water gently to settle the soil. Depending upon the species of lupine, space the plants 15 to 24 inches apart. Apply light, organic mulch to hold down weeds and to help retain soil moisture. Step 3 Water lupines regularly. Don't let the soil dry out completely. Apply a light amount of high potash fertilizer as the buds begin to form. Powdery mildew can be a problem, as well as aphids. Control these with a general fungicide and pesticide. Lupines can also develop viruses that cause stunting and discoloration. If this happens, destroy the plants; do not add them to the compost pile.
Step 4 Watch for the lupines to bloom beginning in early summer and continuing through mid-summer. Deadhead the plants regularly, removing spent flower spikes with pruning shears to prevent seed development. This allows the smaller flower spikes to develop and keeps lupines from spreading out of control. However, if you want to collect the seeds, allow the pods to dry on the plant and then collect the pods. Open the pods and store the seeds in an envelope in a cool dry place until time to plant. Step 5 Sow the lupine seeds either in the early fall or early spring. Scarify (nick) the seeds before planting to quicken germination. Plant the seeds 1/4 to 1/2 inches deep. Because of the shallow planting depth, water gently so as not to disturb the seeds. Young seedlings require consistent moisture to help them establish healthy root systems.
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Miss Chen
2018年09月10日
Miss Chen
Himalayan blue poppies are one of the few flowers that produce an intense sky-blue blossom. In their native location in China, they can grow to more than 6 feet tall; in other locations, they average 20 to 28 inches tall. These poppies look best planted in mass displays or threaded throughout a border. These flowers are not a good choice for the impatient gardener; in some locations they may not bloom the first season. The foliage will die down for the winter and you should expect to see blooms the second year. If it is prevented from blooming the first time the bud sets, the poppy is more likely to become a perennial. These flowers are suitable for USDA zones 3 to 8.
Step 1 Select a site for the Himalayan blue poppies. These plants need partial, dappled shade and protection from strong, drying winds. The soil needs to be rich and well-drained and, in colder climates, it needs to be acidic. Several weeks before planting, dig up the soil, remove rocks and other garden debris and test the pH level. If the soil is too alkaline, amend it with sulfur. Add plenty of organic matter to enrich the soil. Step 2 Plant the poppies in early spring. Dig a hole that is larger than the poppy's container. Remove it from the container and gently loosen the roots with your fingers. Place the poppy in the hole, add soil to fill in the hole and tamp down gently to remove air bubbles. Water gently to settle the soil. Space the poppies 18 to 24 inches apart. Step 3 Water the poppies regularly, but do not over water; waterlogged plants can suffer from crown rot. However, do not let the soil dry out between waterings. Give them a light application of general fertilizer in the spring. Downy mildew can be a problem, especially in locations with high humidity. Spray with a fungicide at the first sign of mildew. Step 4 Watch for the Himalayan blue poppies to bloom beginning in early summer and continuing through to early fall. Unless you want the seed to ripen, remove spent flower stems. After all growth dies down, cut the poppies to ground level. Use a plant marker to indicate the location of the poppies.
Step 5 Propagate the poppies from fresh ripe seed in the fall or spring. After the seeds have sprouted, thin the seedlings to 18 to 24 inches apart. Water well initially, but back off so as not to over water.
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Miss Chen
2018年09月08日
Miss Chen
杜鹃花好看，但也离不开主人的悉心呵护，尤其是盆栽杜鹃花，养护管理工作往往更不能马虎。对于不少花卉植物而言，为了提高改善土质，提高盆土的通透性而要定期为其松土，甚至还需要换盆换土。那么，盆栽杜鹃花也需要经常为其松土吗？今天，小编就和大家一起来探讨一下盆栽杜鹃花是否有必要经常松土的问题。 盆栽杜鹃花需要经常松土吗
首先我们要清楚，杜鹃花是一种浅根性植物，而且其根系非常细小，甚至细得跟头发丝差不多。而长得比较粗壮的根系非常少，有时就连浇水太猛都容易伤害到根系。所以，在平时的养护管理过程中，我们需要小心呵护，尤其需要做好对根系的保护。而松土虽然能改善土壤疏松度，提高盆土的通透性，让根系呼吸更加顺畅，但对于杜鹃花这样的浅根、细根型植物，松土往往比较容易对根系造成较大的伤害。 杜鹃花是靠大量的细根来汲取营养的，原创：wWw.pJCn.ORg一旦在松土过程中对根系造成过多伤害，就很容易影响其汲取能力，从而减弱树势，甚至给植株带来各种生长不良的现象，这是我们需要极力避免的。而且杜鹃宜浅植，所以松土的话，就注定很容易对根系造成较大的破坏。因此，在盆栽种养杜鹃花的过程中，不仅不能经常松土，同时还建议尽可能不要对其松土，以免对根系造成伤害而影响其正常的生长。 既然不能对盆栽杜鹃花松土，那么随着长期以来对水肥的管理又不可避免，土壤也发生板结的现象及办结程度的加深也在所难免。所以，我们给杜鹃花配制盆土应该严格按照要求进行科学配土，而在水质方面也要使用优质的水源。即便浇水，一般我们也不能对盆内进行浇灌、冲淋，否则也容易将浅植的杜鹃根系冲出来。为了避免浇水时将杜鹃的根系冲出来，我们可以在盆面上铺上一层碎瓦片，当然如果能采用浸盆法进行补水，那补水将更加安全、均匀。
杜鹃花是一种浅根性花卉植物，其根系不仅纤细，同时也比较脆弱，如果松土的话，势必会损伤大量的根系，从而减弱根部的汲取能力。在植株无法得到充足的水分和养分的情况下，不仅会影响其正常生长，更会影响其开花。所以，我们有足够的理由不能为盆栽杜鹃花松土，而是使用疏松度高、不容易发生板结的土壤进行种养，这样可以大大降低盆土发生板结的程度或延缓发生板结的现象。
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Miss Chen
2018年09月08日
Miss Chen
夏鹃开出的花朵妖娆艳丽，叶四季常绿，不少家庭都喜欢选择夏鹃来做居家装饰，在日常生活中，应该怎么养护夏鹃呢？ 非常适合制作成盆景供欣赏，但也正因为其开花绚烂，观赏价值高，所以我们都希望能获得更长的观花时间，因此延长杜鹃盆景的花期是我们需要做好 的工作。那么，怎样延长杜鹃盆景的花期，让观花时间更长久呢？ 怎样延长杜鹃盆景的花期 不同的花卉植物具有不同的花期，不仅开花的季节不尽不同，同时花期也长短不一。这不仅由花卉植物的特性所决定，同时也受到生长环境的影响。为了让杜鹃盆景保持长期开放，我们不妨尝试通过改善其生长环境，改变养护管理手段来实现。为了达到延长花期的目的，通常情况下，我们需要从对杜鹃盆景的光温、水肥、修剪等方面的管理来实现。
一、生长环境 由于杜鹃喜欢生长在阴凉湿润的环境下，所以我们平时需要尽可能为其创造出这样的生长环境，而摆放位置往往显得非常重要。一般要求摆放杜鹃盆景的位置既不能受到烈日暴晒，又不能缺乏必要的光照；既不能长期处于高温状态，又需要有最低温度保障；既不能要确保空气流通顺畅，又需要防止大风肆虐。同时为了做好保湿工作，也需要多喷洒叶面水和地面水。 二、盆土要求 杜鹃比较喜欢肥沃疏松、透气透水效果好的酸性土壤，延长：wWw.pJCn.ORg所以我们配土时可以通透性良好的沙质壤土为主，然后在其中拌入一些腐殖质即可。虽然杜鹃比较喜欢湿润，但也怕积水，尤其是在高温湿热、通风差的环境下，更要杜绝一切积水现象。所以，这除了要科学浇水之外，还需要盆土具有良好的通透性，一旦浇水过多时，让多余的水分能被及时排出去。而在盆土中添加腐殖质，可以为盆内增加不少养分，这对于促进杜鹃的生长，甚至是开花都是非常重要的。 三、科学浇水 杜鹃喜欢湿润，却不耐水涝，尤其是在夏季这种气温比较高、天气比较热的环境下，如果再加上通风条件差的话，不仅容易滋生病虫害，同时也非常容易引起沤根、烂根现象。而且杜鹃的根系比较细小，并没有大量健壮的根系，所以吸水能力比较差，切忌浇水太多。而且杜鹃是浅根性植物，一般进行浅植，即便浇水也不能用大水浇灌或冲淋，否则容易将根系冲出来。一般是通过浸盆的方式或喷水的方式给水。更重要的是如果在夏季高温天气下，要避免在一天当中气温最高的时间段补水，同时也要注意水温，包括在冬季浇水，不能让水温与外界温度形成太大的反差。 四、合理施肥 杜鹃比较喜欢肥沃的土壤环境，但由于其根系过于纤细，明显的健壮根系，所以施肥不能太猛，一定要控制好浓度，以稀薄为主。同时也要避免施入生肥，否则容易烧坏植株的根系，从而让根部无法正常汲取营养，影响杜鹃的生长。但施肥也要把握好时机，一般在春季初期和冬季末期施入一些有机肥料。但由于杜鹃花朵硕大，盛花期又在夏季，并不适合在花期施肥，而开花又是一件比较耗费养分的事情。所以，我们可以在开花前后进行追肥。花前追肥是为了促进花芽分化与形成，为开花储备充足养分；花后追肥是由于花期消耗大量养分而需要通过追肥来恢复和增强树势。
五、注重修剪 杜鹃盆景的修剪工作一般在春秋两季进行，主要是剪除老弱病残枝、重叠枝、过密枝、交叉枝等既不利于保持株型又会白白消耗养分的枝条，同时也需要在花后及时摘除残花和剪短花枝。科学地进行修剪处理，既可以让杜鹃盆景保持美观的株型，同时有可以节省养分，再者还可以改善通风透光效果，促进光合作用，减少病虫害的发生，刺激植株更好地萌发新枝新叶。这不仅能更好地促进杜鹃的生长，让其始终保持优美的观赏状态，同时也能促进萌发，尤其是抽出花枝，让开花数量更多，品质更高，整个盆景的观赏性也更强。
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Miss Chen
2018年09月08日
Miss Chen
夏鹃作为常见的家庭欣赏花卉，要想达到最佳的美化效果，除了养护得当之外，对盆景的制作修整也是不可或缺的一项工作。夏鹃盆景的制作有很强的艺术性，要根据植株的整体形态，结合整形修剪吊扎等各种操作技巧，把夏鹃盆景打造成优美造型。今天小编就和大家探讨一下杜鹃盆景如何越冬的问题。 夏鹃盆景如何越冬
夏鹃最适宜的生长温度保持在20°C-28℃之间，不过夏鹃相对于许多花卉植物而言，冬季却要耐寒得多。即便这样，我们也需要控制好夏鹃冬季养护条件下的温度，以确保其能顺利越冬。夏鹃比较适合在我国南方地区温暖湿润的生长环境下，即便是在冬季，室外气温也不会太低，加之其具有一定的耐寒能力，所以也比较容易越冬。 不过，为了确保杜鹃盆景不被冻伤而影响其正常的生长活动，一般也要求冬季气温不要低于5°C，这样才能确保其顺利越冬。如果是在冬季的北方地区，往往养护难度会大得多。毕竟北方地区的冬季往往气温非常低，室外温度一般是低于5°C以下的，甚至会出现零下数十度的低温环境。而夏鹃在这样的环境下是无法顺利越冬的，所以在北方地区一般冬季需要在冬季来临之前要及时将其搬至室内养护。 然后，在北方地区即便是将夏鹃盆景搬进室内养护，也需要注意几个方面的管理，以确保其能顺利越冬。首先是温度控制，一般要求温度保持在5°C以上，但同时也不能让温度过高。因为温度过高时会打破其休眠，让其出现徒长现象，如果任由其生长，必然会影响来年的开花，甚至会出现不开花的现象。所以，将温度控制在合理的范围内，让其既能顺利越冬，又不会打破其休眠期。 同时，将夏鹃盆景摆放在室内养护，由于北方地区一般有暖气，原创：wWW.PjcN.orG所以一定需要选择好摆放位置，除了要避免室内气温太高之外，还需要避免将盆景摆放在正对暖风出风口的位置，否则植株容易出现萎蔫、枯萎等现象。同时由于北方的空气比较干燥，需要经常喷水以保湿，避免出现环境过于干燥的现象而影响夏鹃的生长状态。 而且北方的冬季除了气温低之外，低温天气持续的时间还比较长，如果长时间将其摆放在室内，必然会缺乏光照。所以，一旦出现晴天，应当将盆景摆放在靠近窗台的向阳地方，让其充分接收光线，从而进行正常的光合作用。如果中午时分外界气温适宜的话，可以将其在一天当中气温最高的时段将夏鹃搬至室外让其充分接收光照。待气温降低时，再及时将其搬回室内养护。
夏鹃盆景的越冬问题一直以来是许多盆友比较关注的问题。但只要我们能掌握住其中的几个要点，顺利越冬一般也不存在多大困难，主要是做好保暖御寒、喷水保湿、适当采光等方面的措施。只要大家能做好这些方面的细节处理，相信夏鹃盆景是能顺利度过寒冬的。
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