绿手指
首页
动态
文章
百科
花园
设置
简体中文
已关注
+
关注
花园 (4)
动态 (4985)
Miss Chen
2018年09月03日
Miss Chen
虫害分布 主要分布于北京、河北、河南、陕西、宁夏 国外分布: 朝鲜、日本
虫害危害 危害的植物有苹果、梨、核桃、山楂、桑、榆、毛白杨、刺槐、雪柳、太平花等。 桑褶翅尺蛾是中小型蛾类,食性较广主要为害阔叶树的叶片。 虫害形态特征 成虫 雌蛾体长 14—15 mm，翅展40-50 mm。体灰褐色。头部及胸部多毛。触角丝状。翅面有赤色和白色斑纹。前翅内、外横线外侧各有1条不太明显的褐色横线，后翅基部及端部灰褐色，近翅基部处为灰白色，中部有1条明显的灰褐色横线。静止时四翅皱叠竖起。后足胫节有距2对。尾部有2簇毛。雄蛾体长12—14 mm，翅展 38 mm。全身体色较雌蛾略暗，触角羽毛状。腹部瘦，末端有成撮毛丛，其特征与雌蛾相似。 卵 椭圆形， 0． 3 mm X 0． 6 mm。初产时深灰色，光滑。4—5天后变为深褐色，带金属光泽。卵体中央凹陷。孵化前几天，由深红色变为灰黑色。 幼虫 老熟幼虫体长 30－35 mm，黄绿色。头褐色，两侧色稍淡；前胸侧面黄色，腹部第一至第八节背部有储黄色刺突，第二 至第四节上的明显地比较长，第五腹节背部有揭绿色刺1对，腹部第四至第八节的亚背线粉绿色，气门黄色，围气门片黑色，腹部第二至第五节各节两侧各有淡绿色剂1个；胸足淡绿，端都深褐色；腹部绿色，端都褐色。 蛹 椭圆形，红褐色。长 14—17 mm，末端有 2个坚硬的刺。茧灰褐色，表皮较粗糙。 虫害发生规律 一年发生1代，以蛹在树干基部地表下数厘米处贴于树皮上的茧内越冬，次年3月中旬开始陆续羽化。成虫白天潜伏于隐蔽处，夜晚活动，有假死习性，受惊后即落地，卵产于枝干上，4月初开始孵化。幼虫食叶，停栖时常头部向腹面卷缩于第5腹节下，以腹足和臀足抱握枝条。5月中旬老熟幼虫爬到树干基部寻找化蛹处吐丝作茧化蛹，越夏、越冬。各龄幼虫均有吐丝下垂习性，受惊后或虫口密度大、食量不足时，即吐丝下垂随风飘扬，或转至其他寄主为害。
虫害防治方法 1．营林措施应及时抚育，合理间伐，禁止采伐过度。对发生虫害较重的林内，可于秋末中耕灭越冬虫蛹；清除林内下木和寄主附近杂草，并加以烧毁，以消灭其上幼虫或卵等。 2.检疫苗木移栽时要注意检查，防止带虫苗木扩散。 3.人工防治于晚秋或早春用人工将土中的蛹挖出喂家禽家畜，最好将蛹放入容器内让寄蝇、寄生蜂飞出；或结合垦复措检虫蛹。对油茶尺蛾还可用培土埋蛹，理死成虫。幼虫一般有假死性，可在地下铺以薄膜，摇动树干，将落下的幼虫消灭。在害虫发生较严重的地方，可用人工于树干上捕蛾，刮卵或捕杀群集的初龄幼虫和卵，也可在树干基部难按或绑以 5－7 cm宽塑料薄膜带，以阻止无翅蛾上树，并及时将未上树蛾杀死；或于 8月中旬在寄主植物叶背及杂草上收集点尾尺峨等的虫茧；秋季在奇主树干捆一圈干草或一薄膜环（毒环），弓l诱越冬虫到此越冬，并于早春加以烧毁；并可在树干靠基部刮两个 5一10 cm宽、相互交错的半环，涂上久效磷或涂胶环杀虫。 4.保护和利用天敌应尽力保护利用捕食性和寄生性天敌。病原微生物对抑制幼虫危害起着很大的作用，可根据实际情况选甩下列微生物制剂： lml含抱量 0．5—0．7记苏云金杆菌或 1－2亿青虫菌乳剂；每克菌粉含 100亿孢子的白僵菌粉剂或 lml含 1亿孢子的白僵菌液；每毫升 0． 13亿多角体油桐尺煌校多角体病毒（NPV）防治油桐尺蛾；每亩用 1． 31X 10 ’一2 X 10’春尺娘NPV多角体防治春尺蠖。刺槐林内放猪可以消灭80％以上桑褶翅尺蛾的蛹；油茶林内放鸭子，让其吃食摇落的幼虫。
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月03日
Miss Chen
危害 以成、若、幼螨刺吸芽、叶、果的汁液，叶受害初呈现许多失绿小斑点，渐扩大连片，严重时全叶苍白枯焦早落， 常造成二次发芽开花，削弱树势，影响花芽形成及下年产量。
虫害形态特征 成蟥有冬、夏之分，冬型体长0.4〜0.6毫米， 朱红色有光泽；夏型体长0.5〜0.7毫米，紫红或褐色，体背后半部两侧各有一大黑斑，足浅黄色，体卵圆形，前端稍宽且隆 起，体背刚毛细长，26根，横排成6行。雄体长0.35〜0.45毫 米，纺锤形，第三对足基部最宽，末端稍尖，第一对足较长，体 浅黄绿至浅橙黄色，体背两侧各具一黑绿色斑。卵球形，浅黄白 至橙黄色。幼螨足3对，体圆形，黄白色，取食后卵圆形、浅绿 色，体背两侧出现深绿色长斑，若蛾足4对，淡绿至浅橙黄色， 体背出现刚毛，两侧有深绿色斑纹，后期与成螨相似。 虫害发生规律 北方年发生5〜13代，均以受精雌蟥在树体缝隙 内及干基附近土缝隙内群集越冬。翌春日平均气温达9〜101， 花芽开绽之际出蛰上芽为害，樱桃苗木红蜘蛛出蛰比较集中，约 80“的个体集中在10〜20天内出蛰，初花至盛花期为产卵盛期， 卵期7天左右，越冬雌螨产卵后陆续死亡，第一代幼蟥和若蟥发 生比较整齐，为期约15天，6月中旬以后，随着气温的升高， 发育加快，夏季产卵期平均4〜6天，幼螨及若螨期5〜7天，第 二代孵化盛期约在落花后1个月。此时各虫态同时出现，世代重 叠，7〜8月份，螨量达最高峰，为害也最为严重，往往使叶片 焦枯，甚至提早落叶。樱桃苗木红蜘蛛个体发育需经过卵、幼螨、若螨、后期螨和成螨5个阶段，共蜕皮3次，每次完成前需静伏 1〜2天，在静伏期间不食、不动。
虫害防治方法 在发芽期防治后，果实生长期一般为害性较小，果实采收后发生严重的果园要及时进行药物防治。虫口少的果 园，在防治其他害虫时兼治即可。 药剂防治：喷布20^哒螨灵1 000〜1 500倍液、茴蒿素65“水剂450~700倍液、1. 0^阿维虫清乳剂4 000倍液
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月03日
Miss Chen
Producing a new azalea (Rhododendron spp.) from cuttings creates a new plant with the same characteristics as its parent. Reproducing azaleas from cuttings is often the only way to duplicate the style of a particular plant, since many azaleas are hybridized plants that can't reproduce the same traits from seed. Azalea species such as flame azalea (Rhododendron calendulaceum) often have a narrow growing range. Flame azaleas grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 to 7.
Best Azalea Cuttings Growing evergreen azaleas from cuttings is typically much more successful than their deciduous counterparts. During the summer after the new growth from the spring season has just begun to harden and turn brown is the best time to take an azalea cutting. The most viable cuttings come from healthy plants that are not stressed by malnutrition, insect damage or disease. A growing azalea branch that is brown but still flexible 3 to 6 inches from its tip with several healthy leaves is an ideal candidate. Dipping the blades of your cutting shears in rubbing alcohol and air-drying them is an effective way to avoid introducing diseases to your azalea and the cutting. Preparing the Container The Clemson University Cooperative Extension recommends starting azalea cuttings in a mix of peat and perlite in equal parts. Wetting the soil before you insert an azalea cutting encourages rooting and helps keep the cutting hydrated. You can use any planting container large enough to hold the cuttings that is clean and has drainage holes. You can sterilize used containers by rinsing them with a solution of 1 part bleach to 10 parts water. Preparing Azalea Cuttings Removing the leaves from the bottom half of the cutting reduces the amount of nutrients and water it will lose before it can establish roots. Leave at least two leaves near the tip of the cutting. Trimming the stem just beneath the point where the first leaf attached to the cutting removes excess material that cannot form roots. Dipping the bottom third of the trimmed cutting in a powered rooting hormone improves its ability to generate new roots. Gently tap the cutting's stem to dislodge excess rooting hormone after dipping it. Planting Azalea Cuttings Cuttings often fail to take root, but planting several cuttings at the same time improves the odds that at least one will take. Azalea cuttings need 2 to 3 inches of space between the edge of the container and other cuttings to thrive. Insert each cutting into the soil until the bottom third of the stem is covered and gently firm the soil around the cutting's base to prevent it from falling over.
Caring for Azalea Cuttings Cuttings can not replenish water they lose until they have formed new roots. Maintaining a high level of humidity around the leaves of the cuttings helps reduce water loss, preventing your cuttings from drying out. You can increase the humidity around an azalea cutting by misting its leaves with water and covering it with a clear plastic bag or the severed bottom half of a plastic 2-liter bottle. Once the cutting develops roots, the plastic cover can be removed. When the cutting develops resistance to a gentle tug, its roots have begun growing. Until the roots have had time to establish themselves fully, the cutting needs regular, light watering to keep the soil around the roots from drying out. Safe Handling Nearly all parts of azalea plants are toxic when consumed. Wearing gloves while working with cuttings and washing your tools and hands after you are finished helps prevent cases of accidental poisoning. Avoid eating or handling food while you are working with the cuttings.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月03日
Miss Chen
The best time for transplanting phlox has to do with bloom time and species. "Phlox" can refer to over 60 species and a range of cultivars, so you need to know which one is in your garden before you decide when to transplant. The common name "creeping phlox" may refer to three species:
Moss phlox (Phlox subulata). This rock-garden perennial is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 2 through 9. It grows about 6 inches tall, and spreads up to 36 inches. True creeping phlox (Phlox stolonifera). This plant is hardy in USDA zones 5 through 9. It forms a mat of foliage 3 inches tall, which can spread indefinitely to naturalize an area. The flowers form on 8 inch stalks. Sand phlox (Phlox _bifid_a). This creeping phlox grows 6 inches tall and spreads up to 12 inches wide. It is a slow-growing plant that's hardy in USDA zones 4 through 8. When to Transplant Perennial plants should be transplanted or divided when they are not blooming. This lets the plants focus their energy on growing new roots and leaves instead of flowers. In general, spring-blooming plants should be transplanted in the fall, and fall-blooming plants should be moved in the spring. Sand phlox blooms mid- to late spring. Moss phlox blooms midspring through early summer. True creeping phlox blooms midsummer through early fall. Transplant true creeping phlox in the spring and sand and moss phlox in the early fall. You can also divide or transplant phlox immediately after flowering, but the plants require more care at this time. If you transplant spring-blooming phlox after flowering, the plants need extra water to survive the warm summer months. If you transplant fall-blooming phlox after flowering, the plants need winter protection to keep the shallow roots safe from cold. Where to Transplant Prepare the planting location before you transplant phlox. Moss phlox and sand phlox both prefer a sunny location with well-draining soil. True creeping phlox grows best in full-sun or part-shade locations with evenly moist, well-draining soil high in organic matter.
Moss phlox and sand phlox grow in a variety of well-draining soils, including sandy and gravely locations, but do not tolerate heavy clay or wet soil. Amending compacted, poorly draining soil enough for these plants is difficult. If you decide to amend this type of soil, remove the soil to a depth of 18 inches, combine the soil with sand at a ratio of 1 part soil to 3 parts sand, and then use that mixture to fill in the hole. After that, plant phlox as you would in any well-draining location. You can also spread 1 to 2 inches of organic matter over the soil and work that in to a depth of 6 to 8 inches before planting. True creeping phlox benefits from organic amendments before planting. Adding organic amendments like sphagnum peat or well-rotted compost increases moisture retention and soil fertility. Spread these amendments 2 to 3 inches deep over the soil surface, and work them in to a depth of 6 to 8 inches before planting. How to Transplant Water the phlox plant thoroughly a day or two before you plan to transplant it, or wait to transplant until a day or two after it rains. When you're ready to transplant, use clean gardening shears to trim back the foliage so that you can see the base of the plant. You can remove up to half of the foliage before transplanting. Use a clean shovel or gardening fork to dig all around the plant at a distance of 4 to 6 inches from the base. Next, slide your digging tool under the plant and lift it as a clump. Phlox are shallow-rooted, so they should come up from the soil easily. If you want, you can divide plants at this time and plant them in several locations. Plant the transplanted phlox as soon as possible after digging at the same depth it was previously growing. Firm soil around the plant, and then water thoroughly. Keep the soil moist, but not soggy, for the first two weeks. After that, water sand phlox and moss phlox when the top 2 to 3 inches of soil feels dry to the touch. Water true creeping phlox often enough to keep the soil evenly moist.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月03日
Miss Chen
Tall and distinctive, pampas grass (Cortaderia selloana) makes a showy statement in the landscape. Sometimes it's almost too showy -- the non-native plant is categorized as invasive in many areas, including parts of California. Pampas grass can also become a fire hazard if left untended. Keep this large plant under control by cutting it all the way back to the ground at least once a year. Late Winter
Cut pampas grass back in late winter, before new growth appears. In general, pampas grass grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 10. It grows as a perennial in warmer areas, but it is not evergreen in freezing climates. Still, many cultivars are cold-hardy and can survive in climates lower than USDA zone 8. When cold weather sets in, the foliage and stems dry out, turning brown and becoming a fire hazard. Make room for new growth by cutting it back almost to the ground. Cutting Methods
Pruning this plant is not a simple matter. At maturity, pampas grass can reach a maximum average height and spread of 10 feet. Because of the size of pampas grass, power pruners or hedge or lopping shears are most effective in cutting back the plants. Sterilize the pruning tools by dipping them in a solution of 1 part bleach to 10 parts of water, then rinsing the tools before you start cutting. This will help prevent the spread of fungal and bacterial diseases. Protect yourself as well -- even dry, pampas grass leaves have sharp edges, and they will slice easily through your skin if you aren't careful. Wear long sleeves and gloves when cutting back the plant. Combing Dead Foliage
Pampas grass is a vigorous grower and will grow to its maximum height -- or close to it -- in one season, so cutting it back to the ground won't really limit its size. If you don't have the tools to cut it all the way down, remove the dead foliage from the plant by combing it. Take a small garden rake and use it to grab and pull the dead foliage from the plant. Any dead leaves will easily pull away from the main plant. This will help clean up the appearance of the pampas grass without having to cut it all the way back. Cutting the Plumes
Pampas grass is best known for its tall, feathery plumes. The striking plumes are often used in dried flower arrangements. If you'd like to harvest the prunes, use lopping shears to clip them off right after they fully open. If you wait too long, they will start shedding, especially in heavy rains or winds.
1
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月03日
Miss Chen
"Orange Star" plant (Guzmania lingulata "Orange Star") earned its common name with its showy orange flower bracts, which have a bold, starry shape. It grows best indoors, but will survive in a sheltered outdoor spot in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10a to 11. "Orange Star" plant needs little care once established in a warm, bright location. Regular care year-round will help enhance its appearance and keep it healthy.
Moisture Needs "Orange Star" plant requires consistent soil moisture year-round, but the amount and frequency of watering depends on the season. In summer, water whenever the container's medium feels dry to the touch or the outdoor soil is dry. Watering once per week is usually sufficient. In winter, let the medium dry out completely to prevent root problems. Watering an "Orange Star" plant is simple: fill the empty space at the center of its foliage whorl with water until it trickles down the sides of the plant onto the medium. During hot or dry weather, it is best to keep a small amount of water in the center of the plant to maintain adequate humidity around the leaves. In winter or during cooler weather, let the water evaporate completely before adding more. Fertilizer Advice As with most bromeliads, an "Orange Star" plant needs little supplemental fertilizer to perform well. Light feeding during the summer will help encourage the production of pups, or offshoots, which means you'll have new plants to replace the original one. Feed the plant with half strength fertilizer from spring until late summer. Use a balanced fertilizer with an N-P-K number of 20-20-20 or 7-7-7. Mix 1/2 teaspoon of the fertilizer with 1 gallon of water. Replace one watering every six to eight weeks with the fertilizer solution, filling the foliage cup at the center of the plant. If the "Orange Star" plant produces lanky, discolored leaves or other signs of overfeeding, stop feeding for the remainder of the growing season. Pest and Disease Problems Even under the best growing conditions, an "Orange Star" plant sometimes suffers from infestations of scale insects, mealybugs or spider mites. If you only see a few, wipe the bugs off with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol. If the plant has a lot of pests, you'll need to use a chemical. One safe and relatively nontoxic means of killing pests is a 2 percent insecticidal soap solution. Mix 4 teaspoons of insecticidal soap concentrate with 1 quart of water in a spray bottle. Saturate the foliage and flower bract with the solution, paying special attention to areas where the leaves overlap. Repeat the application every five days until the pests are gone. Although insecticidal soap is not harmful to people, it is best to wear a dust mask and goggles to protect your nose, mouth and eyes when you use it.
Whether grown in containers or outdoors in the ground in frost-free locations, root rot is a problem for "Orange Star" plants grown in conditions that are too wet. Use a well draining mix, when growing the plants inside containers. Outdoors, the plant does not perform well in clay soils, which retains too much water leading to root rot. To keep rot from developing, grow "Orange Star" in soils that drain well. If needed, amend the planting site with 2 to 3 inches of compost to increase drainage and do not keep the site overly saturated with water. Winter Care Tips Winter is a difficult time for an "Orange Star" plant. Dry air and low temperatures make striking the correct indoor moisture balance around the plant difficult, and it may develop serious root issues or damaged foliage. To ensure its health during the winter, water sparingly and maintain humidity above 50 percent by placing the plant on a shallow, pebble-lined tray filled with water. The water shouldn't touch the bottom of the pot, it should only cover the pebbles halfway. As it evaporates, it will help increase the humidity around the "Orange Star" plant without making the soil wet. Also, move an indoor "Orange Star" plant away from heat vents to keep it from drying out. To prevent winter damage, move outdoor containers to an indoor location before temperatures drop to freezing. If temperatures are expected to drop to 40 degrees Fahrenheit or below, remove any standing water in the cups of "Orange Star" plants grown outdoors to prevent winter damage. Protect outdoor plants by covering them with blankets, if an unexpected freeze occurs.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月03日
Miss Chen
Hindu rope plants (Hoya carnosa "Krinkle Kurl") earned their common name with their 12- to 15-inch-long stems, which have a pendulous habit, like a length of rope. Usually grown as houseplants, they will also survive outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9a through 11. Hindu rope plants look best and live longer when provided with regular care year-round, but those care requirements vary according to the season. Seasonal Watering
Hindu rope plants tolerate dry soil well, but they will look best if you water them regularly in summer. Water deeply but infrequently during the summer, saturating the soil and letting it dry out in the top one-third of the pot, before watering again. Hindu rope plants go dormant in winter and require far less water. Water every two to three weeks, wetting just the top 1/2 inch of soil with cool water. Always use pots with drainage holes. Careful Fertilizing
Hindu rope plants are light feeders and will survive without fertilizer if planted in suitably rich, fast-draining growing medium. Because they seldom require repotting and may grow in the same soil for many years, they may need a boost of supplemental nutrients to help keep them growing. Use a balanced fertilizer with an NPK number of 15-15-15 or a low-potassium blooming fertilizer such as 7-9-5. Dissolve 1/4 teaspoon of the fertilizer in 1 gallon of filtered water, or according to the label's rate, then water once a month with the solution from midspring until late summer. Do not fertilize in fall or winter. Pruning and Grooming
Regular pruning during the growing season will help improve the appearance of Hindu rope plants, but it can also cause major problems if not done correctly. Sanitize pruning shears before use to prevent infections. Soak them in household disinfectant for five minutes, rinse them in hot water and wipe them dry. Prune at any time to remove dead, damaged or unwanted growth, or prune flowering stems after the flowers fade. Avoid nicking or cutting the waxy flower clusters -- called peduncles -- because they will continue to produce flowers year after year but will die back if damaged. Also, be aware that Hindu rope plant leaks a latexlike sap when cut, so wear protective gloves and move the plant to prune it if it's on prized furniture. Problems and Solutions
With good care, Hindu wax plants are seldom troubled by serious issues. Mealybugs are one notable exception and may cause serious damage in high numbers. You'll likely see the cottony masses underneath the leaves, but you might see the individual insects, less than 1/10 inch long, scuttling along the stems. Treat them with a soap solution. Dissolve 2 to 5 tablespoons of dishwashing liquid in 1 gallon of tap water and put the solution in a spray bottle. Spray the solution liberally on the undersides of the leaves on a cool, overcast day. Repeat the application every two weeks until the problem subsides. Special Considerations
Tougher than they look, Hindu rope plants adapt to a variety of growing conditions and will survive despite drought, low humidity and neglect, but they may stop blooming regularly. The most common cause of failed blooming is insufficient light. Keep the plants where they will get bright light with direct sun in the morning. Eastern and western exposure is best, although they will also tolerate southern exposure with light shade. Move the plant, if necessary, and watch for new flowers the following spring.
1
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月01日
Miss Chen
Lantana plants are evergreen shrubs or stemmed perennials that are members of the verbena family. There are over 150 varieties of lantana that are native to the warmer areas of the Americas and Africa. They are perennials in zones 9b to 12 but are often grown as annuals in colder zones. Lantana requires full sun to thrive and is known for its prolific blooms and the bees and butterflies it attracts.
When to Plant Regardless of whether they are being grown as annuals or perennials, lantana thrive in heat and should be planted in the spring at least two weeks after any danger of frost has passed. Once planted, they often will not grow or bloom much until the soil warms up considerably. It is important that lantana plants have adequate time to establish their root systems if they are being grown as perennials. Otherwise, they will not survive the winter. Care and Maintenance Lantana are hardy plants that require very little care and maintenence other than a sunny, hot location and some deadheading to prolong blooming. In some areas, lantana grows so effortlessly that it is considered a noxious weed. This is not only because it can grow invasively but because all parts of the plant are poisonous. Despite this bad rap, lantana is a mainstay in the garden because it blooms prolifically yet needs very little attention. The plant is drought hardy, requiring only weekly watering when it is blooming. Occasional trimming back encourages a bushier plant and more blooms. After trimming, a light application of fertilizer can help lantana continue to thrive. If lantana is being grown as a perennial, do not cut it back hard in the fall, as this will compromise its ability to survive. Save hard pruning for spring, when plants should be cut back to 6 to12 inches above ground level and all dead growth and woodiness should be removed. Problems of Lantana Powdery mildew is the most common lantana disease; it can be prevented by making sure lantana is planted in full sun. Too much shade will also result in poor blooming.
Too much water, poorly draining soil and overhead watering can cause root rot, so care must be taken to avoid these factors. Lantana are susceptible to whitefly infestation, mites and lantana lace bugs. Inspect plants frequently for leaf damage or drop. If present, remove affected foliage and apply a commercial insecticide and or fungicide to prevent infestation or infection from spreading.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月01日
Miss Chen
Russian sage is a 3 to 5-foot tall perennial with purplish blue flowers and silver foliage. It has fragrant leaves and it blooms from mid-summer season to the fall. It is a good plant for fall color in the garden, to use for dried or cut flowers, or to attract butterflies. Russian sage can be propagated by division every three years in the spring season or fall.
Step 1 Make sure the plant isn't in active bloom and that the buds are dry. Russian sage is not in active bloom when the buds are dry, even though it may still look active. Step 2 Cut down the stems to approximately 6 to 8 inches high with garden trimmers. After cutting, dig up the plant with a shovel, creating a wide circle around it to get as much rootball as can be salvaged. Step 3 Remove soil around the roots and divide them into thirds if the plant is big enough, (in half if it is small). Pull the roots apart with your hands. Step 4 Keep the roots in water while you are transplanting. Step 5 Dig a new hole as deep as the length of the roots for divided plants with shovel, adding in manure and compost to add nutrients to the soil.
Step 6 Set the plant's crown at the surface of the dirt, pulling dirt around the plant's roots as you continue. Step 7 Water Russian sage after the rootball has completely been covered in amended soil (soil with the added nutrients in step 5) and patted down (to ensure stability). Step 8 Mulch around the plant when the ground is about to freeze, sometime before the first "hard freeze" in your area. Mulching prior to ground freeze will keep the plant insulated and ensure it survives the winter.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月01日
Miss Chen
Russian sage blooms with bright purple flowers that resemble lavender, mixing well with its gray-green leaves and adding a depth of color to any garden. The hardy perennial plant is drought resistant, and though it carries the name "sage," is not part of the edible sage family. Move your Russian sage to ground that will not flood in the winter or dangerously soak the plants root system.
Preparing the Site Loosen the soil and add compost to prepare the new growing site before transplanting Russian sage. The soil for growing Russian sage must be loose to encourage water to drain. Mixing compost into the planting site also helps drainage, and provides evenly moist soil. At any frost-free time of year, loosen the soil in the new growing site to a depth of 12 to 15 inches using a garden fork. Spread a layer of compost 2 to 4 inches thick, and mix it into the soil with the garden fork. Digging Up Russian Sage Russian sage requires careful removal to minimize damage to its root system. Growing 3- to 5-feet tall and 2- to 4-feet wide, Russian sage can have an extensive root system, and some damage is unavoidable. Digging up the plant carefully is unlikely to cause serious harm. Push a garden fork into the ground about 1 foot from the Russian sage's central stem, and lever the end of the fork upward. Repeat this around the plant's base, slowly working the root ball out of the soil. Wear gloves when handling the plant, since the leaves may cause irritation or an allergic reaction. Lift the plant out, and put it down on the soil's surface. Break off excess soil in areas that contain no roots, to lighten the plant's weight. Moving Russian Sage Take the Russian sage to its new growing site immediately after digging it up to prevent its roots from drying out. Russian sage is drought-tolerant and low-maintenance and should suffer few problems from transplanting, but replanting it right away increases the chances of success. Dig a hole 2 1/2 feet wide and as deep as the depth of the Russian sage's root ball, which is usually about 1 foot. Place the plant in the hole so that it's level and sitting at its original growing depth. You may need to add or remove soil at the base of the hole. Fill in the gaps around the root ball with dug soil, and gently firm the plant in its hole.
After Care Regular watering helps Russian sage quickly establish in its new site. Water the Russian sage using a garden hose fitted with a spray attachment. Spray water over the root area until it begins to puddle, but avoid washing away soil. Through the rest of the growing season water Russian sage when the soil is dry to a depth of 2 inches. Russian sage grows sturdy, dense and upright if it is pruned in spring. Sterilize pruning shear blades by wiping them with a cloth that was dipped in rubbing alcohol, and prune all Russian sage stems to 6-inches tall in spring before new growth appears. Sterilize the pruning shears again after pruning.
0
0
文章
96 97 98 99 100 101 102 103 104 105 106 107 108 109 110 111
相关用户
筒叶花月
筒叶花月
来自： 斑目
玉露
玉露
来自： 安静的种花人
玉露
玉露
来自： 石头剪子布
天津
玉露
玉露
来自： 绿野鱼悅
温州市
筒叶花月
筒叶花月
来自： Heidi Liu
玉露
玉露
来自： 一万吨少女心
筒叶花月
筒叶花月
来自： KiddaHoo
郑州
保利安娜
保利安娜
来自： 辣木姐--璐颖
玉露
玉露
来自： 倾心
福州
玉露
玉露
来自： 小欢喜
广州
举报 反馈

您有什么意见或建议，欢迎给我们留言。

请输入内容
提交
取消
设置
VIP
退出登录
关闭
分享

分享好文，绿手指（GFinger）养花助手见证你的成长。

关闭
请前往电脑端操作

请前往电脑端操作

关闭
转发
插入话题
提醒好友
发布
/
提交成功 提交失败 最大图片质量 成功 警告 啊哦！ 出了点小问题 转发成功 举报 转发 显示更多 _zh 文章 求助 动态 刚刚 回复 邀你一起尬聊！ 表情 添加图片 评论 仅支持 .JPG .JPEG .PNG .GIF 图片尺寸不得小于300*300px 最少上传一张图片 请输入内容