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Miss Chen
2018年09月04日
Miss Chen
虫害分布 该虫分布于河北、河南、山东、山西及北京、天津等省、直辖市。
虫害危害 海棠透翅蛾的寄主有苹果、梨、桃、杏、海棠、沙果等果树，可造成树势衰弱、死枝、死树等，是海棠大害虫之一。幼虫多于枝干分叉处和伤口附近皮层下食害韧皮部，蛀成不规则的隧道，有的可达木质部，被害初有粘液流出呈水珠状，后变黄褐并混有虫粪，轻者削弱树势，重者枝条或全株死亡。 虫害形态特征 海棠透翅蛾属鳞翅目，透翅蛾科昆虫，成虫：雌成虫体长12～14毫米，翅展19～26毫米，体黑色并有蓝色光泽，头后缘环生黄白色鳞毛，复眼紫褐色，胸部两侧各有黄斑，翅脉黑色，翅脉间透明，腹部第2节和第4节后缘各有一黄色环纹（苹果透翅蛾第4～5节各有一黄色环）。雌蛾尾部有两丛黄白色毛丛。雄蛾尾部有扇状丝毛丛。卵：黄褐色，扁椭圆形，有六角形白色刻纹。幼虫：老幼虫体长22～25毫米，头褐色，腹部乳白色，因体背常有褐色粘液而成污白色，各节体背疏生细毛，腹足趾沟单序双横节，臀足趾沟单横带；蛹：黄褐色，长约15毫米，腹部3～7节背面各有一横排刺，腹末环列8根臀棘。 虫害发生规律 在华北每年发生一代，以幼虫在皮层内结茧过冬，春季3月下旬树体萌动时开始活动，继续蛀食皮层为害，并排出红褐粪便，4月末开始化蛹，6月上旬为化蛹盛期，化蛹前幼虫先作一羽化孔，但不透过表皮，在羽化孔下作长椭圆形茧化蛹，蛹期约14天，成虫羽化期自 5月末至8月上旬陆续发生，羽化盛期在6～7月。成虫白天活动，取食花蜜，常选择衰弱枝干或枝杈部粗皮缝内，或伤疤边缘产卵，每雌约产卵20余粒，散产，卵期约10天，自6月上旬即有卵孵化直至8月中旬，到11月份不同龄期的幼虫均可结茧过冬。
虫害防治方法 （1）在幼虫为害处可涂抹敌敌畏煤油乳剂，（即每公斤敌敌畏加200克煤油）以杀死幼虫。 （2）人工挖出幼虫杀死，伤疤处涂以灭腐灵，也可将被害处粗皮和粪便轻轻刮去，露出虫孔而后抹20倍氧化乐果或甲胺磷，以杀死幼虫。一般应在春季进行。 （3）成化学防治 发生盛期用45%丙溴辛硫磷（国光依它）1000倍液，或国光乙刻（20%氰戊菊酯）1500倍液+乐克（5.7%甲维盐）2000倍液组合喷杀幼虫，可连用1-2次，间隔7-10天。
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Miss Chen
2018年09月04日
Miss Chen
虫害分布 分布：山东、河南、陕西等省。为害：桃、李、杏、梅等。
虫害危害 桃象虫甲成虫蛀食幼果，使果面上蛀孔累累并流胶，轻者使品质降低，重者引起落果。幼虫在果内蛀食，使果实干腐脱落。成虫在幼果上产卵，造成大量落果。 虫害形态特征 成虫 体长10毫米左右，全体紫红色有金属光泽。 卵 椭圆形，长约 1毫米，乳白色。 幼虫 成熟时体长12.5毫米左右，乳白略带黄色，背面拱起，无胸、腹足。 蛹 体长8毫米左右，淡黄色，稍弯曲，头、胸部背面褐色，有长刺毛。 虫害发生规律 1年发生 1代，主要以成虫在土中越冬，次年春季桃树发芽时开始出土上树为害，以4月初幼果期，成虫盛发后为害最严重，落果最多。成虫怕阳光，常栖息在花、叶、果比较茂密的地方，有假死性，受惊后即坠落地面或在下落途中飞逃。成虫主要为害幼果，以头管伸入果内，食害果肉。
虫害防治方法 1、捕捉成虫：利用成虫假死性，于清晨露水未干时，树下铺布单摇动树枝，成虫受惊后跌入，然后集中处理。雨后成虫出现最多，效果好。 2、喷药防治：在4月间成虫盛发期，喷80%敌敌畏1000倍液。 3、清除虫果：勤拾落果和摘除树上的蛀果，加以沤肥或浸泡在水中，可消灭尚未脱果的幼虫。 4、地面撒药：春季成虫出土前，在果园树下撒50%西维因粉。
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Miss Chen
2018年09月04日
Miss Chen
The care and effort it takes to overwinter elephant ears (Colocasia spp.), which grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 11 with some variation within species, depends on your climate. In frost-free tropical and sub-tropical areas, these lush foliage plants grow year-round with minimal winter care. In frost-prone regions, overwintering elephant ears takes a little more effort, but it's worth it when the 2- to 3-foot-long heart-shaped leaves bring a tropical flair to the garden the following summer.
Mild Climates Need Little Care In USDA zones 10 through 11, elephant ear plants will grow year-round, remaining green through the winter. Discontinue watering from late fall through winter so the soil dries out. The soil can dry out completely during the dormant period, but natural rainfall will likely keep the soil moist. Cut back dead foliage and stalks as they die 2 to 4 inches from the soil line. Elephant ear foliage dies back throughout the year, but winter is a good time to tidy plants. You can cut out dead leaves any time of year. Frosty Areas Require Some Protection While elephant ear plants survive winters in frost-prone areas, specifically within USDA zones 8 through 9, the foliage will die back after a frost or cold spell. Once the first frost kills the foliage, cut back the stalks 2 to 4 inches from the soil line, then cover the soil with a layer of mulch 4 inches deep. No additional water is necessary during the dormant period. The mulch helps insulate the soil. Sawdust, seed-free straw, leaf-mold and compost all make good mulching materials. Overwintering Indoors Outside of the growing zone -- anywhere colder than USDA zone 8 -- elephant ears are not reliably hardy. The roots will freeze in the cold soil, killing the plants. In cold areas you have two choices: you can grow elephant ears in pots and keep them in a frost-free area over winter in a dormant state, or dig the tubers in the fall and . Overwintering Pots Indoors Before the first frost, move the container to an area that won't freeze over winter. An unheated garage or shed that stays above 50 degrees Fahrenheit works well. Discontinue watering through the winter. This forces elephant ear tubers into dormancy. Cut all the stalks down at the soil level. In the spring when the temperature is consistently at or above 60 degrees F, water when the top of the soil feels dry. Once the last frost has passed, you can return the pots outdoors.
Digging and Storing Tubers Allow the leaves and stalks to die back naturally with the first of the winter frosts. Once dead, cut back the foliage 2 to 4 inches from the soil, then carefully dig out the roots. Elephant ears have fleshy tubers for roots. Brush soil away from the surface and identify the shape and size of the tuber, then dig down around the outside of the root and lift it from the soil. Brush off extra dirt and pack the tubers in dry sawdust or peat moss in a bucket or tub. Keep the tubers dry in a 50-degrees F spot through the winter.
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Miss Chen
2018年09月04日
Miss Chen
graf 4 Most people are only familiar with the top heavy doubles which tend to flop in the wind or rain, and explode all over when the blossoms age. For some people this is unsightly and for others the masses of petals dappling the lawn is beauty itself and natural. For those who do not like the bad habits of the heavy peonies, there are singles, beautiful semi-doubles, anemone, Japanese and new doubles bred specifically with strong upright stems, available. It is a matter of searching for the right variety to fit your taste and garden style.
staking grafs 1-2 Each person has their own method for staking peony plants, some work, others not so well. The longer stems of many peonies, especially the heavy doubles, will blow down by the time the flowers are fully open. This habit often keeps people from purchasing and enjoying these beautiful and often lovely scented plants which is a shame. Peony staking need not be a chore. I stay away from peony rings as I find them often disappointing in their ability to hold up the plant. For me, I use the method suggested by Allan Rogers in his informative book "PEONIES". He advises a single pass of heavy-duty garden twine around the plant, about a foot from the top, after the buds are enlarging in size. This gives sufficient support, tie snuggly but do not cinch in too tight as this affects both the look of the plant form and may damage the stems. Alternatively two lines, one twelve inches from the top and the other twelve inches below that. This method works for me and I find it is quick to apply. The twine is biodegradable so in the fall it is cleaned up and discarded with the foliage. Peonies. Their voluptuous blooms often drag these bushy plants down, especially after rain. The best cure is a peony cage, a sort of grid on stilts that you install over the early shoots in spring. The stems will grow up through the spaces of the grid so it supports the plant when the blooms get heavy.
graf 4 Grow-through grids are invaluable, and if they were made in enough sizes, they would solve most staking problems. For robust, clump-forming plants, like peonies ( Paeonia spp. and cvs., USDA Hardiness Zones 3–8), Siberian irises ( Iris cvs., Zones 3–9), globe thistles ( Echinops spp. and cvs., Zones 3–9), coneflowers ( Rudbeckia spp. and cvs., Zones 3–11), and ornamental grasses, they are the ideal form of support. Their evenly spaced tic-tac-toe pattern of steel rods allows two or three stems to grow through each opening. Grow-through grids come in different shapes—round, square, or rectangular—with legs that are 18 inches to 3 feet tall. Most are made of stout steel wire coated in green plastic, which makes them virtually invisible if properly installed For the best results, set the grid a few inches above a plant early in the season, before the leaves mature. Attach the legs one at a time—they hook around the rim of the grid—and push them into the ground. Space the legs equidistant from each other if possible. When well placed and installed at the right time of year, the grid will disappear completely beneath the expanding foliage. You will have to revisit the plant periodi­cally during the season and, in some cases, raise the grid and replace the legs with longer ones to keep pace with new growth.
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Miss Chen
2018年09月04日
Miss Chen
Daylilies (Hemerocallis spp.) are named for their short-lived blooms, but these perennials can produce flowers for three to four weeks with the right care. Daylilies are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness 3 through 9 and grow 6 to 36 inches tall and 18 to 24 inches wide, depending on the variety. Watering daylilies frequently, removing their faded flowers, dividing them when crowded and growing them in full sun encourage prolific flowering.
Watering Daylilies Continually moist soil promotes flowering in daylilies. These plants are drought-tolerant, but they flower best when they receive 1 inch of water per week, and they need more water when the weather is hot and dry. Water daylilies thoroughly when their first flower buds appear in spring, and spread a 2-inch-thick layer of shredded leaves or other light mulch over the bare soil between plants. Water the plants again when the soil surface is dry; scrape back some mulch to check if you aren't sure about the soil's condition. Don't water the plants so much that the ground becomes soggy. Removing Faded Flowers Taking off faded flowers prevents daylilies from developing seeds, which encourages more blooms. Seedpods behind the faded flowers must be removed to prompt the plants to flower again. Daylilies produce many flowers on single stems, and usually the flowers last about one day. Every two or three days, pinch off the faded flowers and developing seedpods where they join the stems. When all the flower buds on a stem have bloomed, prune the stem at its base. Sterilize pruning shear blades before and after pruning daylilies by wiping them with a cloth that was dipped in rubbing alcohol. Dividing Daylilies Poorly performing daylilies may be crowded, and dividing the plants usually increases blooming. Daylilies grow in fan-shaped clumps, and over time these clumps become congested. A sign of crowded plants is few flowers. Divide daylilies in spring. Push a garden fork deeply into the ground several times around a daylily clump, levering the fork upward each time until the daylily's root ball lifts out of the ground. Using a sharp knife or two garden forks inserted back to back into the clump then pulled apart, divide the clump into three or four sections. Plant the sections 18 to 24 inches apart and at their original growing depths.
Using Full-Sun Sites Daylilies flower best when planted in a full-sun location. Specimens growing in partially shaded spots grow well, but they flower less. Growing daylilies in areas that receive at least six hours of sunlight daily provides the most flowers, but in warm climates the plants need some light shade during the hottest part of the day. Remove sources of shade, such as overhanging foliage, or transplant shaded daylilies to a full-sun site. Daylilies also can be replanted in a sunny spot after their clumps are divided in spring.
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Miss Chen
2018年09月04日
Miss Chen
Newly transplanted day lilies (Hemerocallis spp.) establish quickly, producing lush, swordlike spring and summer foliage punctuated by bright summer flowers. Day lilies grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 10, depending on the variety. Whether you are transplanting new day lilies or dividing and transplanting those you already have, doing so at the right time ensures you still get to enjoy healthy plants and a full season of flowers. New Plants
New day lily plants establish quickly when planted in spring, but you can plant them any time between spring and late summer. Potted plants can survive without immediate planting if you provide them with full sun and keep the soil moist. Day lilies bought as bareroot plants that aren't packaged in soil need immediate transplanting so the roots don't dry out. Trim off the top one-third of the foliage with shears wiped with a cloth soaked in rubbing alcohol before transplanting. Digging and transplanting on a cloudy day or in late afternoon prevents heat and sun stress on newly moved plants. Divide and Move
Although existing day lily plants tolerate digging and transplanting any time during the spring and summer, the best time to dig in in early spring just as they begin putting on new growth, or in summer right after they finish their first flush of flowering. The plants require digging, dividing and transplanting every three years, or when the clumps get too large and the plants begin flowering poorly. Cutting back the leaves to 6 inches tall prevents breakage when you dig them up. Loosen the soil around the perimeter of the root zone with a spading fork and slide the fork underneath the roots, lifting the day lilies from the ground. Split the lifted clump into sections, with four leaf fans on each section, before transplanting. The Transplant Process
Garden beds that get full, all-day sun with well-draining but moist soil provide healthy growing conditions for your day lilies. Mixing in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost into the top 8 inches of soil improves the soil. Plant new or divided transplants in a hole about the same depth as the root ball, so the crown of the plants sits just at the soil surface, and then fill in the hole with soil. Creating a mound of soil in the bottom of the hole allows you to spread the day lily roots out in the hole so they can establish well. Space the plants about 18 inches apart to prevent overcrowding. Care After Transplanting
A deep watering right after transplanting helps the soil settle around the roots. After watering, cover the soil with a 2- to 3-inch layer of bark or pine straw mulch, leaving 1 to 2 inches between the mulch and the base of the plants. Mulch helps retain moisture and insulates the soil, while also smothering and preventing weed growth. Water day lilies once each week, soaking the soil 8 inches deep. You can trim off any tattered or damaged leaves with disinfected shears to improve the appearance of the day lilies as they establish.
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Miss Chen
2018年09月04日
Miss Chen
Bee balm (Monarda didyma) sends up dense clusters of scarlet flowers in midsummer, and it often remains in bloom for a month or longer. The flowers attract butterflies, bees and hummingbirds to your flower bed, making it a suitable choice for a low-growing shrub or an anchor plant in the garden. Bee balms are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 9, where they require little maintenance to thrive. Removing the old flowers, a process called deadheading, and pruning correctly improves both the appearance and health of the bee balm. Deadheading Benefits
Bee balm flowers don't retain any ornamental qualities after they fade. The formation of seeds can cause the quick decline of the foliage so the whole plant begins to die back before the end of the growing season. Removing the spent flowers prevents foliage loss and may encourage a second weaker flush of flowers, extending both the growing and the flowering season of the small shrub. Deadheading and pruning also increases air circulation, which can help prevent powdery mildew and fungus problems. Tools and Preparation
Handheld pruning shears can handle the summer pruning needs of bee balm. Bypass shears work better than single-blad varieties because they make a clean cut without crushing the stem. Clean and disinfect the shears thoroughly before you begin deadheading and again after each plant to minimize the spread of diseases, pests or fungal spores. Wiping the shears with a cloth soaked in isopropyl alcohol allows for quick disinfection as you prune. Washing your hands before pruning and wearing gloves also helps prevent the spread of disease. Deadheading Technique
Begin deadheading as soon as the first flower clusters begin to wilt and die. Cut back the flowering stems to within 1/4-inch of a leaf or leaf bud near the top of the stem. After deadheading, rake up and dispose of or compost the removed flowers. Bee balm begins flowering in midsummer and each flower cluster can persist for several weeks. Checking the plants weekly for wilting clusters allows for prompt removal of the older flowers so their seed production doesn't weaken the plant. Cutting Back
Cutting back the entire bee balm after the first major flowering flush is over removes any remaining flower clusters and rejuvenates the foliage for the remainder of the growing season. Remove up to one-third of the plant from the top, trimming off both the old flowers and foliage. The bee balm usually responds with a flush of new growth and flower bud production, although this second flowering is not as lush as the first. You can also cut back the bee balm by half its height in mid-spring before it begins to flower to encourage fuller foliage and more flower buds, but this treatment may delay flowering by a few weeks.
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Miss Chen
2018年09月03日
Miss Chen
虫害分布 国内主要分布于湖北、江西、浙江、云南、贵州、四川、海南、广东、广西、福建、台湾；国外主要分布于锡金、印度，不丹、尼泊尔、斯里兰卡、缅甸、泰国、马来西亚，澳大利亚、新几内亚。
虫害危害 主要危害芸香科的黄皮(Clausena lansium)、假黄皮(C．excavata)、食茱萸、光叶花椒等植物。 为害特点 幼虫食芽、叶，初龄食成缺刻与孔洞，稍大常将叶片吃光，只残留叶柄。苗木和幼树受害较重。 虫害形态特征 成虫 翅展80～95 mm，体侧黄白色，体背黑色或黑褐色。翅黑色或棕黑色，前、后翅的斑纹除后翅前缘中斑及臀斑颜色不同外，其他斑纹都呈黄白色或棕黄色。前翅基区及亚基区有由许多细碎黄点组成的多条细横纹，外缘及亚外缘有斑列，中区及中后区有许多排列不规则、大小不同的斑纹，亚顶角有1枚长斑，外缘波状，波谷有黄点。后翅外缘及亚外缘区有斑列，中前区及亚基区大斑相连成宽横带，带内侧弧形，外侧凹凸不齐；前缘中斑有蓝色瞳斑，臀角具红斑，外缘波状，波谷有黄点。翅反面前翅除基部有放射形条纹，亚顶角内侧有3～4枚黄褐色的斑外，其余大致与正面相似。后翅基部多3枚淡黄色斑；中区呈杏黄色斑，比其他斑列增大而清楚；其他斑纹排列大致与正面相似。 卵 球形，黄色，将孵化时有黄褐色污斑。直径约1.1mm。 幼虫 1～4龄幼虫鸟粪状：头部褐色，上有淡褐色云状斑；身体底色为黑色，胸部与7～9腹节的侧面有白纹；2~5腹节的侧面与背面形成“V”字形白带。老熟幼虫体呈绿色。后胸前缘及第1腹节后缘各有1条黄褐色的横带。第3、4腹节有1对褐色的斜带，带中有斑驳的紫色与白色细纹；第5腹节亚背部有1枚褐色小斑和2枚紫色小点，第6腹节亚背部有1枚紫色小点。气门褐色，臭角基部橙黄色，末端橙红色。 蛹 体色因所处环境不同而有绿色与褐色两型。头顶及中胸中央各有1对短突起，腹部略向两侧突出，第4~7腹节亚背部每侧各有1个小瘤。体长约34mm。 虫害发生规律 生活史及主要习性 在广州，成虫于11月中旬产卵于柑桔嫩芽上，经7天孵化。幼虫先食柑桔嫩叶，虫体渐长，食量增大，老叶变可取食。幼虫期26-30天。老熟幼虫于11月下旬在枝间化蛹，蛹尾端固着于枝上，身体上部环系丝带。蛹体与枝条作40度左右倾斜，触动时则左右摇摆。蛹期25-45天，至1月中旬羽化为成虫。第2代幼虫，大多3月发现。以蛹越冬。
虫害防治方法 1、农业防治。人工捕捉幼虫和蛹，及时减少虫口发生基数。 2、生物防治。在达摩凤蝶发生不严重的时期或地区，应避免使用化学农药，以保护其寄生性无敌昆虫，例如凤蝶蛹期的天敌有：蝶蛹金小蜂（Pteromalus puparum Linnaeus）和广大腿小蜂（Brachymeris lasus（Walker）），其寄生率达30%以上，对凤蝶的发生、严重为害起到了明显的抑制作用。 3、药剂防治。化学防治应掌握在各代1～3龄幼虫期，喷施20%杀灭菊酯乳油或25%灭幼脲Ⅲ号悬浮剂1 500倍液，由于凤蝶幼虫抗药性差，其防效可达到98%以上。
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Miss Chen
2018年09月03日
Miss Chen
虫害分布 分布较广泛，在我国各柑橘产区普遍存在。
虫害危害 柑橘爆皮虫别名柑橘旋皮虫、橘长吉丁虫、锈皮虫主要为害柑橘类。为害特点 主要为害主干树皮的韧皮部和木质部，成虫取食柑橘嫩叶，幼虫在主干和主枝的皮层内蛀害许多蜿蜒虫道，造成千疮百孔，严重迫害韧皮部，大量流胶，虫道内塞满虫粪，使养分不能正常运输，树皮枯死，成片脱落或环状爆裂，导致全株枯死。老年树及树皮粗糙的橘树受害重，并且还可以诱发流胶病。 虫害形态特征 成虫 体长宽6.5－9.1×1.6-2.7毫米，古铜色，具金属光泽，复眼黑色。触角11节，前胸背板密布指纹状皱纹。鞘翅狭长，有灰、黄、白色的短毛密集成不规则的波状纹，足末端呈"V"形，紫铜色，密布细小刻点，上有金黄色花斑翅端部有细小齿状突起。腹部6节，上有小刻点和细绒毛。 卵 长宽0.7－0.9×0.5－0.6毫米，椭圆形扁平，初乳白色，后变为土黄色至褐色。 幼虫 体扁平细长，乳白色或淡黄色，表皮多皱褶。头甚小，褐色，陷入前胸，前胸特别膨大，背面呈扁圆形，其背、腹面中央有一褐色纵沟，沟末分叉。腹末有l对黑褐色钳状突。一龄幼虫体长1．5－2毫米，乳白色，头与钳状突淡黄色。二龄体长2．5－6毫米，色淡黄。三龄长6-14毫米，淡黄色，背中线色深。四龄长12－20毫米，初细长扁平，后变粗短。 蛹 纺锤形，长9－12毫米，化蛹初期为乳白色，有光泽。扁锥形，柔软多皱褶。 虫害发生规律 一年发生一代，也有二年一代，低龄幼虫在树干皮层下越冬，老熟幼虫在木质部内越冬。越冬幼虫于2月中旬开始取食和老熟化蛹， 4月下旬为盛期，同时开始羽化为成虫，开始活动，5月为盛期，成虫出洞后5－7天开始交尾，一生交尾2或3次，交尾后1－2天产卵。幼虫刚孵化后，在树皮浅处为害，受害处先出现分散芝麻状油滴，继后流褐色透明胶质物。此后幼虫向深层蛀食。晴天闷热无风之日或雨后初晴的中午出洞多。一般日均温19℃左右时成虫才能出洞，成虫于晴天飞到柑橘树冠上取食嫩叶，吃成小缺刻；遇阴雨天则静伏在树冠下部枝叶上、草丛中、间作物上。成虫具假死习性。卵散产裸露或密排成鱼鳞状。雌虫一生产卵20－45粒。多产在树干裂缝或分枝处树皮下，少数产在树干上的地衣、苔藓下面。树皮粗糙，裂缝多的树和品种受害较严重。老树 (20年生以上)，营养不足、管理粗放且长势弱的柑橘园受害重。
虫害防治方法 (1)加强果园管理 增施有机肥，合理灌溉，增强树势，提高树体的低抗力。结合修剪，刮除老、翘皮，彻底清除果园。 (2)在成虫活动前应彻底清除枯死树及死树。集中处理，消灭虫源。可用稻草绳捆扎为害严重和邻近被害橘树的主干，外涂稀泥，以防止成虫飞出和迁飞来树干上产卵为害。在8月下旬即可解除草绳，分别于3、6、9月削除流胶被害的树皮，以消灭卵、幼虫和蛹。 (3)保护和利用天敌。 (4)化学防治 刮除被害部翘皮后，用40％氧化乐果、25％亚胺硫磷、80％敌敌畏乳油3－5倍液，涂抹被害部位，杀死虫、卵。也可用乐果、亚胺硫磷等5倍液涂抹全树干和主枝，以毒死出洞成虫和防止外来的成虫产卵。
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Miss Chen
2018年09月03日
Miss Chen
虫害分布 分布于北京、大连、石家庄、太原、济南、郑州、无锡、武汉和贵阳等地。
虫害危害 主要为害葡萄，还为害山葡萄、常春藤、爬山虎等。以食叶为主 虫害形态特征 成虫体长18mm～20mm，翅展44mm～47mm。头、胸紫棕色，颈板及后胸端部暗蓝色。腹部及足黄色，腹背中央有1列紫棕色斑。前翅灰黄色，散生紫棕色斑点。前缘色稍浓，后缘及外横线以外紫棕色。内横线灰黄色，自前缘外斜至中室，角折内斜，在中室下缘呈明显双线。外横线灰黄色，双线，中部外弯，后半段明显内斜。亚缘线灰白色，锯齿形。缘线为1列黑点。肾纹、环纹紫棕色，黄边。后翅杏黄色，外缘有紫棕色宽带，臀角有1枯黄色斑。卵宽1.8mm，高0.9mm，半球形，红褐色，顶端有1黑点。幼虫老熟时体长32mm～42mm，头橙黄色，密布黑斑。胸、腹部黄色，前胸背板及两侧黄色，身体每节有大小不一的黑色斑点，疏生白毛。身体前细后粗，腹部第8节背面稍隆起。臀板橙蓝色，毛突淡褐色，褐斑连成1横宽带。蛹长约20mm，红褐色，尾端齐，略呈方形，两侧有角状突起，端部着生3对钩刺。 虫害发生规律 在辽宁一年发生2代，以蛹在葡萄根部附近或葡萄架下的土中越冬。5月下旬成虫羽化，卵产在叶背或嫩梢上。6月下旬幼虫孵化，为害葡萄叶片，7月中旬化蛹。7月下旬出现第2代成虫，8月中旬至9月中旬为第2代幼虫为害期。9月中旬幼虫老熟后入土化蛹越冬。北京地区一年发生2代，以蛹在寄主根部附近土壤中越冬。翌年5月中旬成虫羽化，有趋光性。日伏夜出，白天潜伏在叶背或杂草丛中，夜间交尾产卵，卵散产在叶片上，卵期为8天左右。6月中旬至7月中旬为第一代幼虫为害期，幼虫喜食嫩芽和新叶，造成缺刻和孔洞，严重时，只留下粗叶脉和叶柄。7月幼虫老熟化蛹，蛹期约7天。7月中旬至8月上旬为成虫期。8月中旬至9月中旬为第二代幼虫为害期。9月中、下旬幼虫陆续老熟入土化蛹越冬。 虫害防治方法 1、结合葡萄埋土与出土挖直越冬蛹。 2、结合整技捕捉幼虫。 3、幼虫期喷洒８０％敌敌畏乳剂或９０％敌百虫１０００倍液。 4、化学防治：尽量选择在低龄幼虫期防治。此时虫口密度小，危害小，且虫的抗药性相对较弱。防治时用45%丙溴辛硫磷（国光依它）1000倍液，或国光乙刻（20%氰戊菊酯）1500倍液+乐克（5.7%甲维盐）2000倍混合液,40%啶虫.毒（必治）1500-2000倍液喷杀幼虫，可连用1-2次，间隔7-10天。可轮换用药，以延缓抗性的产生。
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