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Miss Chen
2018年09月01日
Miss Chen
A standby in the butterfly garden, milkweed (Asclepias syriaca), which grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 9, provides the sole food source for monarch butterfly caterpillars. This 2 to 3-foot-tall perennial flowers through the summer and is one of several nectar sources for the adult monarch butterflies. With little required care, milkweed is a smart choice for meadows and wild areas of the yard.
Seed Control Milkweed is best grown in naturalized areas and meadows as it tends to spread and take over more formal garden settings. You can keep it in check by plucking off all the flowers before they turn into seedpods. Use a pair of pruning shears. After clipping, rinse the blades in a solution of 1 part rubbing alcohol to 1 part water then let them dry before storing. Milkweed also spreads -- sometimes aggressively -- by its roots. Milkweed and Larvae Monarch butterfly caterpillars rely on the milkweed's leaves for food, but they leave holes behind when they feed. Because of this, milkweed works best in an informal garden setting where the feeding caterpillars can leave ragged-looking plants without ruining your manicured gardens. The caterpillars are easy to find with their striking yellow, white and black stripes. Slug Problems While resistant to disease, milkweed does attract slugs. These slow-moving, leaf-eating garden pests damage leaves and flowers when given a chance. If you notice large holes in the leaves, check for slugs -- the best time is after dark with a flashlight -- under the leaves every two to three days. Bring a bucket of water with 1 capful of dish soap added with you. As you pick off the slugs, drop them in the bucket. The soap kills the slugs, eliminating the unpleasant task of crushing them. Wear gardening gloves if you don't like touching the slugs.
Milkweed Aphids Milkweed aphids suck sap from the plant's leaves. While natural predators usually keep aphids in check, you can use insecticidal soap for severe infestations. Spray the aphids directly with a ready-to-use product until they are saturated. Be careful not to get any on monarch butterfly caterpillars. Because milkweed is such an important plant for the monarch butterfly, avoid treatments when possible and don't use harsher chemical treatments. Sometimes simply spraying aphids with a strong jet of water is enough to get rid of them. Don't mistake the aphids for monarch eggs. Monarch butterflies commonly lay a single egg on each milkweed plant under a leaf. The milkweed aphids are yellow and generally live in colonies while the egg is and white and commonly on its own. Winter Care and Toxicity Milkweed plants survive the winter in cold regions by going dormant. In fall, adding a 3- to 4-inch-deep layer of mulch helps insulate the soil. While not required, this helps keep the ground from freezing and thawing and disrupting the roots. In spring, pull back the mulch to give space to the new growth. Plant milkweed away from areas where small children or pets spend time as the leaves are toxic if eaten.
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Miss Chen
2018年09月01日
Miss Chen
Petunias (Petunia spp.) grow as perennials in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 10 and are broken into four categories of grandiflora, multiflora, milliflora and spreading types, but they are often treated as annuals. Though a prolonged frost can kill petunias, including new transplants, established and older transplants usually can survive a light frost, according to Colorado State University Extension. Cells within plant stems and roots freeze and burst when the temperature cools quickly during a frost, which can kill tender perennials. Prompt plant protection can help petunias survive a frost, as long as the temperature below 32 degrees Fahrenheit aren't prolonged. You also can protect newly planted petunias in spring or early summer when a late frost occurs. If frost damage does occur, wait until all danger of frost has left your area before pruning affected foliage. Wise Watering
Moisture increases humidity, and humid air and moist soil can hold warmth better than dry air. Water the petunias thoroughly the day before the expected frost, but avoid watering during the cold period because moisture on the leaves can cause damage. Irrigate potted petunia plants until the excess moisture just begins to drip from the pots' bottom drainage holes, and water petunias planted in the ground until the top 6 inches of their soil feels moist but not soggy to your touch. Planter Protection
Potted petunias require the least effort to protect during cool temperatures. Simply take the pots indoors during the frost or move them to another protected area, such as an unheated shed or garage. Placing them under a patio awning may provide sufficient protection during a brief frost. If the pots are too heavy to move easily, then protect the petunias using the same methods as you would for petunias planted in the ground.. Mulch Matters
A layer of mulch on top of soil insulates plant roots and helps conserve warmth in the soil. Mulch can prevent petunia roots from becoming too cold during a brief frost and may even provide sufficient protection for the petunia foliage. Use dry leaves or a straw mulch for frost protection. Mound the mulch over the plants after irrigation, and completely cover the crowns, where stems and roots merge. Remove the mulch covering the crowns and foliage only after the danger of frost passes, but leave a 2-inch-thick layer of mulch over the soil to continue insulating the roots. Creative Covers
Covering the petunias protects their flowers and foliage from a brief frost. If daytime temperatures are warm between nights with frost, then an option is to cover the petunias overnight and uncover them during the day. Insert stakes around the petunias to elevate the cover so it doesn't touch any foliage. Drape a blanket, cloth sheet or plastic over the stakes, anchoring the cover's edges to the ground with a mound of soil or small rocks. The cover will trap soil warmth and keep frost off the petunias. You also can place a string of holiday lights around the petunias and turn on the lights to generate some heat under the cover, but place the lights so they don't actually touch the cover. Care Concerns
Warming cold petunias too quickly in the morning can result in further damage after the frost has passed. If their area receives direct morning sunlight, then vent the cover so the air doesn't warm too quickly and cause the moisture in the plant cells to overheat and the cells to burst. Remove the cover after the temperature beneath it and in the surrounding air stabilizes. If the foliage or flowers die back due to frost, then trim back the dead foliage and stems, but wipe the shears you use with a cloth soaked in isopropyl alcohol to disinfect them before pruning. The petunias will grow back from the plant crowns if the roots survived the frost.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月31日
Miss Chen
Sometimes called purple queen, purple heart (Setcreasea pallida) is a low-growing tender perennial grown for its showy violet leaves and sprawling, dark-purple stems. It grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 7 through 11 and it's usually used as a ground cover or container plant. Purple heart needs little care, but providing some general maintenance will keep it looking its best.
Seasonal Watering Although highly drought-tolerant once established, purple heart will look tidier and more lush if it gets regular water in summer. Water it weekly from spring until fall, providing 1 inch of water each time. Allow the soil to dry out on the surface between waterings to keep the roots healthy. During times of extreme heat or drought, increase watering to twice weekly if the soil is drying out faster than normal. Reduce watering to once every two weeks in winter and provide no water during rainy weather. Pot-grown purple hearts should also be watered whenever the soil dries on the surface. Water until the excess flows from the drainage holes of the pot. Always use pots with drainage holes for this plant. Fertilizer Needs Purple heart uses its soil nutrients efficiently and requires little supplemental fertilizer. Potted plants or those grown in poor or especially fast-draining soil may need a boost of nutrients during the active growing season to enhance their lush, violet foliage. Dissolve 1/2 teaspoon of general-purpose, 15-15-15 ratio fertilizer in 1 gallon of water. Apply the solution monthly and watch for pale or washed out-looking foliage, which is a sign of overfeeding. Reduce feeding to once every two months if the purple heart's foliage turns pale or if it starts producing an abundance of leggy, weedy growth. Pruning and Grooming Among purple heart's most positive attributes is its gracefully trailing habit and vigorous growth. This is also one of its greatest drawbacks because can quickly overtake a bed or produce spindly, unattractive growth if left unpruned. Pruning purple heart should be done in spring or early summer just after it finishes flowering. Remove up to two-thirds of the growth to promote a fuller, bushier appearance and encourage more blooming. Before pruning, soak your shears in a solution of equal parts water and rubbing alcohol or full-strength household disinfectant for five minutes and then rinse the blades. The pruned stems can be discarded in a green waste can or used to propagate new purple heart plants. Considerations Purple heart doesn't have serious pest or disease issues if it is grown under the right conditions, making it a smart choice for a low-maintenance yard. But it does have some significant drawbacks that may cause issues in your garden. Its vigorous growth may become invasive in warm, frost-free climates. Keeping it pruned helps limit its spread, but it may also require inorganic mulch or an underground root barrier to keep its roots from spreading. Another issue with purple heart is its foliage, which may irritate the skin. Growing it in a pot will address both concerns, as long as the pot is kept away from where people might accidentally brush against it.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月31日
Miss Chen
Contrary to its name, reindeer moss is not a moss at all but a lichen that grows on rocks and in the sandy soil on the outcroppings of the forest. It was named after reindeer because it is a favored treat for reindeer and caribou in northern regions. Reindeer moss tends to be hearty and requires little care to thrive, however you will need to set the proper conditions in your garden if you plan to grow it.
Step 1 Water reindeer moss lightly during dry seasons. Most mosses and lichens that grow naturally require little in the way of watering, as they tend to store water. If you plant reindeer moss in your moss garden and it is not natural to your area, you may need to water it regularly during droughts to keep it from drying out. Step 2 Keep it shaded. Reindeer moss is a lichen, which is an algae and fungus combination that thrives on cool weather and shade. If planting reindeer moss, make sure you find a place that receives little sunlight. Step 3 Provide your reindeer moss with good quality air. Reindeer moss does not grow roots, and draws minimal nourishment from host plants like trees. It depends on the air for almost all of its nutrients, and will not sustain itself in highly polluted areas.
Step 4 Avoid allowing animals to nibble at your reindeer moss. Reindeer moss is a slow-growing lichen species that can take up to 30 years to regrow if the top layer is damaged.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月31日
Miss Chen
Blue flowers are hard to find in the garden -- most lean toward purple hues. However, Evolvulus glomeratus "Blue Daze" is aptly named: The low-growing, herbaceous perennial features true-blue flowers that stand out against the attractive, olive-green leaves. Perfect for borders or containers, "Blue Daze" blooms all summer long when cared for properly.
Climate and Temperatures "Blue Daze" is a warmth-loving plant. It is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 11. In cooler climates, it is often grown as an annual or in a container that is brought indoors for the winter. Situate this plant where it will stay nice and warm. In fact, if you have a hot spot in your garden where other plants wilt, replace those plants with this flower -- "Blue Daze" likes it hot. It can even tolerate salty conditions, so if you're near the coast, plant this flower in a hanging container and watch it withstand the salty air. Most outdoor plants die at the first hint of freezing temperatures, so bring container plants indoors well before cool fall temperatures arise. Some "Blue Daze" plants can tolerate a light frost if they are surrounded by a thick layer of mulch. Light and Location For "Blue Daze" to bloom properly, it needs full sunlight. Each flower opens for only one day, but it is replaced by a new flower the next day. If the day is cloudy or the plant is shaded, the flower won't open and its brief life is wasted. Locate these plants -- including those grown in containers -- where they will get as much hot, direct sunlight as possible. As far as soil goes, "Blue Daze" tolerates a range of soils, including poor or sandy soil, as long as it is well drained. If you bring a container indoors for the winter, locate it in bright but indirect sunlight and in a cool location. Food and Water Because "Blue Daze" is such a prolific bloomer, it benefits from monthly applications of fertilizer during the growing season. Use a bloom-boosting 15-30-15 formulation, water-soluble fertilizer once a month, following the instructions for application on the package. These instructions vary depending on the brand, but in general, dilute 1 tablespoon of the fertilizer in 1 gallon of water and use this solution to water your plants. Because "Blue Daze" thrives in full, hot sunlight, it needs frequent watering. Water when the surface of the soil feels dry to the touch and frequently enough so that the soil is almost continually but barely moist. In the winter, they need little watering.
Pests and Problems "Blue Daze" is a hardy plant. It does not suffer from serious pest or disease problems. The one thing it cannot tolerate is soggy soil. Extended periods of rain cause fungal problems to develop in the soil, which quickly destroy the shallow roots of the plant. Overwatering leads to the same result, as does poorly drained soils. Plants grown in containers should have drainage holes in the base to prevent this problem, and home gardeners should avoid planting "Blue Daze" in depressions or other locations that tend to collect water.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月31日
Miss Chen
Hellebore is the common spelling for Helleborus spp., a genus of flowering perennials that grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 9, depending on species. Ideally, transplant hellebores during their dormant period in fall. The popular variety lenten rose (Helleborus orientalis), hardy in USDA zones 4 through 9, adapts most readily to transplanting. Regardless of species, it may take two to three years for plants to fully recover after a move and start blooming with their previous abundance.
Relocation and Bed Preparation Ideally, transplant hellebores at one or two years old. You can still transplant more mature, established hellebores, but success rate and recovery time will vary. Hellebores thrive in light shade and moist, organically rich soil. Before transplanting, prepare the bed at the new location by mixing compost with the soil. Use a 2- to 3-inch-thick layer spread evenly over the bed, then dig it 12 inches deep into the soil. Adding the compost before transplanting hellebores provides the high amount organic matter these perennials enjoy. There's no need to cut back hellebores before transplanting. Digging and Transplanting Use a shovel to dig out and lift the root ball from the soil. To get enough of the roots, look at the drip line -- the soil under the outer leaf tips -- and dig the root ball the same diameter. Dig a hole at the new planting site the same depth and slightly wider than the root mass. Set the hellebore in the hole -- adjust the soil level at the bottom until the point where the roots meet the stem sits level with the soil -- then fill in around the root ball. Use the same soil you just dug out to fill the hole. Water and Mulching Water right after transplanting. This settles the soil, minimizes transplant shock and helps the roots adapt quickly to the new environment. Water when the top of the soil feels dry through any remaining dry fall weather.
Mulch the bed to keep the soil moist after transplanting. The mulch layer also provides some cold protection over winter. Use 2 to 3 inches of compost spread evenly over the soil but leave 1 to 2 inches of space between the hellebore stalks and the compost. This helps minimize rot and insect problems.
Transplanting Seedlings When mature hellebores go to seed after flowering, new seedlings grow the following spring near the parent plant. You can transplant these seedlings in the spring, either into pots or to fill out new areas of the garden. Transplant them when they are big enough to handle, and before new foliage on the parent plant blocks the sun. Dig out the seedlings with a small trowel, being careful not to disrupt the root ball. Replant them in moist soil and light shade. To plant the seedlings in pots, select containers at least 8 inches in diameter with drainage holes, filled with potting soil.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月31日
Miss Chen
Winterize both garden-grown and container-grown hostas in the fall to prevent root damage. They will reward this extra winter care with lush new foliage in the spring and showy flowers in the summer. There's only one way to winterize hostas growing in the ground, but a few options exist for container hostas.
Hostas and Winter Damage Hostas (Hosta spp.) are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 to 9. They can survive winter temperatures as low as -40 degrees Fahrenheit when planted in the ground. Damage occurs to the root system when temperatures fluctuate. This is a bigger problem for hostas planted in the fall because they have not had a chance to grow their roots deep into the ground, but damage can occur in established hostas, too. As the ground goes through thaws and freezes, it pushes or heaves the hostas up, exposing their roots to the elements. Hostas in the Ground Cover hostas with 2 to 3 inches of shredded bark mulch in the fall after the ground freezes to a depth of 3 inches. The mulch will help insulate the soil, reducing the severity of temperature fluctuations, and protect the crowns of the plants. Remove the mulch in the spring when the ground thaws and there is no longer any danger that it will freeze again. The tops of the hostas must be uncovered right away if new shoots begin to poke through the mulch. It can be left covering the crowns of the plants, though, if there is a chance temperatures may plummet again. Remove mulch from the crowns of the plants and pull it back a few inches away from stems after the danger of freezing temperatures has passed. Hostas in Containers Protect container-grown hostas from extreme cold, temperature fluctuations and moisture. Hostas in containers will be subjected to wind-chill temperatures far below what they would experience in the ground, and fluctuations will be more extreme. In addition, moisture will gather in the pots on top of the frozen roots when the sun warms the container, which will cause root rot.
Move hostas into an unheated garage or shed when temperatures begin to drop below freezing. Water them if temperatures warm to above freezing and the soil thaws only if it is completely dry. Set them back outdoors in the spring when temperatures warm to above freezing. If new shoots appear before freezing temperatures are over for the year, move the hostas outdoors to get some sunshine during the day while it is warm then back into the enclosure at night. Dig holes in the ground large enough to hold the containers and sink the hostas, containers and all, into the ground in the fall before it freezes. Cover them with 2 to 3 inches of shredded bark mulch after the ground freezes. Pile the mulch over the top of the soil within the containers beneath the leaves and add more until plants are covered. This will prevent water pooling on the soil in the containers. Remove mulch in the spring and move the containers back to their usual positions when the danger of freezing weather has passed. Bunch the potted hostas close together in an area protected from the wind such as right up against the north side of a building or next to the foundation of the house underneath a deck. Pile shredded bark mulch or shredded leaves over the soil in the containers and then over all of the plants to a depth of 2 to 3 inches. Pack it along the outer edge of the group of containers to a thickness of 3 to 4 inches. Uncover them and move them back to their usual locations in the spring when temperatures are likely to stay above freezing.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月30日
Miss Chen
Day lilies (Hemerocallis spp.) usually bloom for three to four weeks, but shade, drought, too much fertilizer or crowding can prevent flowering. These perennials grow in upright clumps 6 to 36 inches tall and 18 to 24 inches wide, and grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 9, depending on the variety. Selecting day lilies that thrive in the growing conditions in your garden gives the best chance of plentiful blooms.
Shady Spots Day lilies growing in shady spots flower rarely or not at all. These plants flower best in sites that receive eight hours of direct sunlight per day. Day lilies grow healthily in partially shaded sites, but you'll see fewer flowers. Grow day lilies in an area of the garden that receives at least six hours of sun. In mild and cold climates, such as USDA zones 7 and lower, there's no maximum amount of sunlight day lilies can tolerate. In USDA zones 8 and above, the plants grow and flower best with light shade, such as from a high canopy, at midday and into the afternoon. If your day lilies are growing in a shady site, remove overhanging branches and other sources of shade, or consider transplanting the plants to a brighter part of the yard. Dry Soil Dry soil and periods of drought prevent flowering in day lilies. Plump roots mean day lilies can survive dry soil and drought, but the plants often lose their flower buds in these conditions. Moist soils rich in organic matter are best for growing day lilies. Spread a 3-inch layer of garden compost, leaf mold or well-aged manure around the plants, but don't pile the mulch against the day lily stems because this can cause rotting. Over time, worms and other soil organisms will break the mulch down and enrich the soil. Water day lilies when the soil surface is dry. Spray water from a garden hose fitted with a soft spray attachment at the plant bases to penetrate dense clumps. Stop watering when the water begins to puddle on the soil surface.
Excessive Fertilizer Day lilies don't need much fertilizer, and excessive fertilizer can encourage leafy growth at the expense of flowers. Plants getting too much fertilizer often have lush, deep green leaves and look healthy but won't flower. Day lilies growing in a border next to a lawn can accidentally receive lawn fertilizer. Don't fertilize day lilies that look healthy but aren't flowering and don't spread lawn fertilizer within 2 feet of day lilies. Crowded Plants Dividing crowded day lilies encourages strong growth and flowering. Reduced blooming is a sign that day lilies need dividing. This can happen every two or three years or up to every 20 years, depending on the variety. You can divide day lilies at most times of the year, but the usual time for dividing plants is spring before new growth starts. Dig up day lily clumps with a garden fork, and split each clump into three or four sections. You can do this by pushing two garden forks down through the leaves and into the root ball, then levering the garden forks apart, or you can cut through the root ball with a sharp, clean knife. Plant the sections at their original growing depth and 18 to 24 inches apart.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月30日
Miss Chen
A miniature daylily with enormous ornamental punch, "Stella de Oro" (Hemerocallis "Stella de Oro") packs an abundance of riches onto its 1-foot high frame. In U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 10, its buttery-gold, ruffled trumpet flowers open from late spring to late summer. In mild-winter areas, its gracefully arching foliage remains green all year. Plant it properly, and one "Stella de Oro" may eventually produce 400 blooms in a single growing season.
When to Plant Climate dictates the best time of year to plant bare-root "Stella de Oro." In hot-summer, mild-winter climates where the soil doesn't freeze, fall planting lets them establish and leaf out before extremely hot temperatures arrive. In cold-winter climates, plant bare-root "Stella de Oro" in spring at least 60 days before summer temperatures are likely to peak. Planting in fall increases the chances of the roots' not establishing before the ground freezes. As long as their root balls aren't disturbed, nursery container plants can go in the ground whenever the soil is workable. Where to Plant For maximum flowering, "Stella de Oro" needs at least six hours of daily sun. In most cases, plants in direct afternoon sun produce more flowers than those getting mostly morning sun. The exceptions are plants in very hot summer climates, and -- in some instances -- those planted in the shade of light-colored buildings. Give hot-climate plants full morning sun, with shade between noon and late afternoon. Indirect, reflected light may be enough for the building-shaded plants to bloom their best; if it's not, they're easily transplanted. "Stella d'Oro" rarely flowers in deep shade. Never plant "Stella de Oro" where its toxic leaves might tempt the family cat. Site Preparation Prepare a site large enough to space the "Stella de Oro" daylilies 1 to 1 1/2 feet apart. Loosen the top 1 to 1 1/2 feet of the planting bed with a spade or tiller and work in a 3- to 4-inch layer of an organic soil amendment, such as well-aged compost or manure.
Also work in a granulated fertilizer with a 3:1:2 ratio of nitrogen, phosphorous and potash, as indicated by the N-P-K numbers on the label. One manufacturer, for example, recommends lightly scratching 1 1/4 cups of its 6-2-4 fertilizer granules into each 10 square feet of soil and watering well. Follow your fertilizer label's application instructions, because brands vary according to formula. Planting Methods If the bare-root plants' roots are dry, submerge them in water for one or two hours before planting. Water a dry potted "Stella de Oro" until liquid runs from its drainage holes. Cut bare-root plants' leaf fans back to 6 to 8 inches above the roots, trimming the tops into inverted "Vs." Use clean, sharp scissors disinfected between cuts in rubbing alcohol. Dig holes wide enough for the roots. In a cold-winter climate, dig deeply enough for roots' tops to sit 1 inch below the soil line; elsewhere 1/2 inch is acceptable. Hold a bare-root plant upright, center it in a hole and backfill with loose soil. Hold a container plant by its base, invert the container and slowly slide it free. Shake the rootball gently and trim damaged or encircling rots with sharp, disinfected stem cutters. Spread the roots, center it in a hole and backfill. Tamp the soil lightly to eliminate air pockets. Water the transplants deeply enough to soak the roots, and cover the planting bed with a 2- to 3-inch layer of moisture-retaining organic mulch. Watering After Planting To establish quickly and perform well, "Stella de Oro" needs 1 inch of weekly rain or supplemental water, or about 6 gallons per 10 square feet of soil. When the top 2 to 4 inches of soil feel dry or are too compacted to dig easily, water slowly so that the moisture sinks to the roots. For plants in loamy or clay soil, one weekly watering is generally enough. In sandy soil, water twice weekly with one-half the required amount.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月30日
Miss Chen
Shasta daisies are an old-fashioned favorite in the garden. Both novice and experienced gardeners will easily grow a beautiful clump of shasta daisies in a sunny growing area that will return year after year to provide lovely summer blooms. As the years go by, shasta daisies will expand and many gardeners like to divide them to create new shasta daisy plants. You can easily divide shasta daisy plants in the spring when they first sprout from the soil.
Step 1 Watch for the first growth of the shasta daisies in the spring. When you see this growth, dig with the shovel to remove the entire shasta daisy clump. Make sure you keep the roots intact as you remove the clump from the soil. Place the clump onto the ground nearby. Step 2 Use your hands or a utility knife to separate the outer portions of the plant (foliage and entire root systems together). As long as the divided portions of the clump have both foliage and roots, they should grow. Step 3 Examine the inner portions of the clump to see if there are any parts that appear old and woody. If you find portions like this, cut them out and discard them. Step 4 Prepare a new growing area by working the soil with the garden spade down to a depth of 8 inches. Add 2 inches of compost to the top of the soil to improve the soil composition and work this in well with the spade.
Step 5 Dig holes for each shasta daisy plant that are 18 inches apart and deep enough to accommodate the root systems with the plants being at the same depth as they were previously growing. Step 6 Place the newly divided shasta daisy plants into the prepared holes and fill soil in around the roots. Tamp down the soil around the plants with your hands and provide a generous amount of water for each shasta daisy plant.
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