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Miss Chen
2018年08月19日
Miss Chen
Pagoda plant (Clerodendrum paniculatum) earned its common name because of the tiered, pyramidal shape of its flower clusters, which stand out against its large, heart-shaped leaves. It grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 11, where its equally ornamental foliage and flowers brighten gardens all year. Pagoda plant requires year-round care to maintain its good looks and long-term health. Its care requirements vary by season but decrease significantly in winter.
Seasonal Watering A pagoda plant's water needs fluctuate significantly during the year. In summer, it needs consistently moist soil and should be watered weekly or whenever the soil dries out completely on the surface. A potted pagoda plant will quickly deplete soil moisture and may need to be watered several times each week, especially if it is in an unglazed clay pot. Water until the soil feels moist in the top 2 inches, or until water trickles from the pot's drainage holes. Only use pots with drainage holes so the plant doesn't sit in soggy soil. In winter, water only if no rain falls for longer than one week or if the plant appears slightly wilted. Fertilizer Needs A pagoda plant is a moderately heavy feeder during summer, especially if it is in full sun. In shade, feed a pagoda plant once every two weeks with soluble fertilizer with an N-P-K number of 15-15-15 or 12-12-12. Increase the frequency to weekly for a plant in full sun. Dissolve 1/2 teaspoon of fertilizer in 1 gallon of water and apply the solution to wet soil around the base of the plant. Don't fertilize in winter to allow the pagoda plant to rest. Resume feeding in spring. Pruning and Grooming A pagoda plant will grow quickly in summer, which means it may crowd out less assertive plants. Prune it to restrict its size and encourage better blooming and denser foliage. Prune in summer after the last flowers have faded. Snip off any spent flowers and trim back the entire plant by up to one-half, is you wish. Before pruning, soak your shears in a disinfecting solution for five minutes, then rinse and wipe them thoroughly. Use 1 part pine oil cleaner and 3 parts water or full-strength household disinfectant as the solution.
Potential Problems Pests, including aphids, whiteflies and spider mites, often trouble a pagoda plant, causing damage that ranges from cosmetic to catastrophic. Early detection is key to ensuring the survival of the plant, so routinely monitor it for signs of bugs such as eggs on the undersides of the leaves, honeydew and abnormally yellow leaves. Treat infestations with an insecticidal soap solution. Mix 5 tablespoons of insecticidal soap in 1 gallon of water in a pump sprayer. Saturate the foliage every four to seven days, preferably when the weather is still and cool. Although insecticidal soap is nontoxic, wear goggles and a face mask to protect your mucous membranes. Rinse off the plant two to three hours after each treatment to prevent leaf damage.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月19日
Miss Chen
One of the first, and best known, re-blooming daylilies is the cultivar "Stella de Oro" (Hemerocallis "Stella de Oro"), which is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 11. It first appeared in 1975, and 10 years later won the Stout Silver Medal. This is the highest award a daylily cultivar can receive from the American Hemerocallis Society. Like most daylilies, "Stella de Oro" benefits from division every few years.
How Often Should I Divide? "Stella de Oro" is a dwarf daylily with foliage that only grows 12 inches tall. It tends to form tidy clumps that work well planted in rows, as individual clumps in perennial borders or massed as a groundcover. As the clumps grow, the individual daylily fans become crowded. Regular division reinvigorates daylilies, and gives you more plants for your garden or to pass along to other gardeners. Divide "Stella de Oro" every two to three years, when you notice a decrease in the number of blooms. What Time of Year Is Best? Daylilies are remarkably resilient plants, and can be divided any time during the spring, summer or fall growing seasons. Spring is the best season for division, however, since daylilies are actively growing. You want to divide plants when the new foliage is just starting to grow. This gives the daylilies time to put out new growth before blooming in the summer. Plants that were divided in the early spring will still flower, and may even produce more flowers than plants that were not divided. If you miss dividing in the early spring, the second best time to divide plants is in the early fall. Daylilies put out another flush of growth after blooming. For "Stella de Oro," this doesn't happen until the weather starts to cool. You might have to cut off some late bloom stalks in order to divide the plants in early fall. How Do I Divide Daylilies? If you divide in the late spring, summer or fall, cut back the foliage to 8 inches tall with a pair of hedge shears and remove any flower stalks before dividing. For early spring division, you can skip this step. Make sure you disinfect shears and other cutting tools before use. Do this by soaking the tools in a mixture of 1 part bleach to 3 parts water for at least 5 minutes. Rinse tools in clean water, then let them air dry.
Use a gardening fork to lift the entire daylily clump from the soil. Separate the clump into smaller clumps using the gardening fork or a large, sharp knife. Each fan-shaped plant can grow on its own, but it is best to leave at least four fans together in each clump when you're dividing daylilies. What Comes After Division? Before replanting the daylily divisions, amend the soil with 2 to 3 inches of well-rotted compost worked in to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. This will provide a slow-release form of nitrogen and loosen the soil for new roots. Re-plant each division at the same depth the plant was originally growing and space clumps 18 to 24 inches apart. Water each daylily clump thoroughly, and continue watering enough to keep the soil moist throughout the spring, summer and early fall. "Stella de Oro" needs little supplemental water after this first year.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月19日
Miss Chen
The perennial Japanese lantern plant is related to tomatoes and potatoes. It is grown for the bright orange sheath, or calyx, that surrounds its fruit. Dried stems with the calyx still attached are a popular Christmas and Halloween decoration. This species can become invasive because of its spreading underground rhizomes; you can grow it in containers or in pots sunk into the garden to prevent it from getting out of control.
Step 1 Sow Japanese lantern seeds in 4- or 6-inch pots indoors in the early spring. Start about a month before the average date of the last spring freeze. Sprinkle the seed thinly on the surface of sterile potting compost and cover with 1/4 inch sieved compost. Keep the soil moist but not soaking and place in a warm spot. Step 2 Transplant Japanese lantern seedlings into the garden six weeks after they germinate and are large enough to handle. Plant in a partially shady site with rich but well-drained soil. Allow between 1 and 3 feet between plants depending on the mature size of the cultivar you are growing. Step 3 Fertilize your growing plants with a liquid fertilizer rich in nitrogen every three weeks or apply a slow release granular fertilizer every three months. Allow the soil to dry out slightly between waterings but never to the point where the leaves start to wilt.
Step 4 Harvest the stems in the fall as soon as the fruit calyxes develop their orange color. Remove all the leaves and hang the stems out to dry.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月18日
Miss Chen
Over 2,300 camellia (Camellia spp.) cultivars are registered with the American Camellia Society, many of them from the popular Japanese camellia (Camellia japonica) and Sasanqua camellia (Camellia sasanqua and two closely related species, Camellia hiemalis and Camellia vernalis, both hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 7 through 9) groups. Some camellia varieties are adaptable to everything from drought conditions to cold climates, with bloom-time ranges from October to April, depending on species and cultivar.
Japanese Camellias The rose-like flowers of Japanese camellias are a welcome sight in the winter months when many flower species are lying dormant. Camellia leaves are always bright, glossy evergreen, but the flowers range in color from white, through many shades of pink and red with variegated colored varieties of each. Bob Hope (Camellia japonica 'Bob Hope') has large, deep red, semi-double ruffled flowers and bright yellow stamens; it is a mid-season bloomer, flowering in winter, and thrives in USDA zones 8 through 10. Carter's Sunburst (Camellia japonica 'Carter's Sunburst'), also hardy in USDA zones 8 through 10, has pink and red-streaked variegated flowers that also come into bloom in the winter months. Depending on the cultivar, Japanese camellias are hardy throughout USDA zones 7 through 10. Sasanqua Camellias This species group of camellias vary in form from dense, bushy, upright plants to low-growing, spreading varieties. Their leaves are smaller than Japanese camellias, and the flowers are exceptionally fragrant. Camellia sasanqua 'Chansonette' can be grown in USDA zones 7 through 10, with a blooming period of fall through winter with pink, double-petaled flowers. It is a low spreading ground-cover camellia with a height of 2 to 3 feet and 8 feet in diameter. Bonanza (Camellia sasanqua 'Bonanza') thrives in the same hardiness zones with bright scarlet peony-form blossoms early in the bloom season, in autumn. Depending on the cultivar, Sasanqua camellias are hardy throughout USDA zones 7 through 10. Camellia Hybrids Long Island Pink (Camellia x 'Long Island Pink') is a camellia hybrid that produces single-petaled pink flowers in fall. It is a slow-growing bush that reaches 10 feet in height and 8 feet in diameter in USDA zones 6 through 9. The glossy green foliage emerges in bronze, and this camellia species is often used as a hedge, or as an espalier plant along a wall. Another popular camellia hybrid is the pure white-blossomed Quintessence (Camellia x 'Quintessence') which thrives in USDA zones 8 through 10 and does well as a small shrub or ground-cover. Its single white flowers with pink blush at the petal margins generally bloom early to mid-season, October to December. Depending on the cultivar, hybrid camellias are hardy in USDA zones 7 through 10.
Bloom Failure Camellias set more buds than come open, but under-watering may cause bud drop or buds that fail to open and bloom. Bloom failure may also be caused by too much direct sun or harsh winds. Camellias prefer growing conditions that offer filtered sunlight, such as given by the canopy of a large tree. Blossom failure may also be caused by fluctuating temperatures. If the temperature drops to freezing, cover the camellia bush with a light blanket or heat-retaining plant cover. Secure it at soil level to take advantage of ground heat, and remove cover in the morning.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月18日
Miss Chen
Bleeding heart (Clerodendrum thomsoniae) prefers warm, humid conditions, making Florida's weather conditions optimal. It is hardy in United States Department of Agriculture hardiness zones 9 through 12, acting like a perennial in Central and South Florida. North Florida plants will die to the ground during frosts and freezes, but they will resprout in spring. The evergreen shrub has a vine-like habit, growing up to 15 feet tall. Bleeding heart has red and white bell-like flowers, blooming from spring through summer.
Growing Outside Step 1 Remove weeds from a planting site located in partial shade with well-drained soil. Pull or rake the vegetation from the planting bed. If using an herbicide to kill the vegetation, do not use a product that has long-term effects to the soil, as it may kill the bleeding heart. Step 2 Amend the planting site with peat, manure or compost, as the majority of Florida soil is sandy, lacking organic nutrients. Work the organic material into the planting area's soil to a depth of approximately 6 to 8 inches. Step 3 Dig a hole twice as wide as the bleeding heart's root ball and as deep as it is presently growing. Place the root ball into the hole and backfill with soil. Firm the soil around the plant by patting it down with your hands. Step 4 Install a trellis approximately 6 inches behind the bleeding heart, giving it something to grow on, if growing the plant as a vine. Push the trellis legs into the soil approximately 8 to 12 inches. Bleeding heart has a twining growth habit, instead of forming tendrils that hold onto the trellis or arbor.
Step 5 Water the bleeding heart immediately after planting, saturating the roots, and water regularly. Plants perform best in moist, well-drained soils. If your area of Florida is suffering drought conditions, water approximately three times weekly to keep the soil moist. Step 6 Prune bleeding hearts to control their size, shape and make them bushier. If growing plants as a shrub, regular pruning will make them branch out instead of being more vine-like. Step 7 Protect bleeding heart plants if your winter temperatures become cold, as the plants are cold tolerant to 45 degrees Fahrenheit. Cover plants with cloth coverings and water well before the frosty weather arrives. Growing Inside Containers Step 1 Fill a hanging basket or other container half full with a well-draining, rich, potting medium. Using containers that do not drain will cause the soil to be overly saturated and the bleeding heart will develop root rot and die. Step 2 Remove the bleeding heart from its container and place inside the new container. Fill with soil and pack down around the plant using your hands, firming it up. Step 3 Water the container after planting the bleeding heart, allowing water to run from the bottom. Water the plant every other day if necessary, as containerized soil dries out quickly. Stick your finger into the container's soil and if the top 1 to 2 inches are dry, apply water. Step 4 Situate the container or hanging basket in an area that receives partial sun throughout the day. Step 5 Bring the hanging basket or container indoors to a warm location if winter temperatures turn cold. Return the bleeding heart to its outdoor location once warm, spring weather returns.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月18日
Miss Chen
An evergreen, foxtail fern (Asparagus densiflorus "Myers") has delicate-looking, plumed stems, which are lined with pointed, bright green leaves. Despite its ferny appearance, foxtail fern is a flowering plant. Forming fluffy mounds 2 feet tall and up to 4 feet wide, foxtail fern works wells as a houseplant, specimen, container or border plant, requiring minimal maintenance and care. Foxtail ferns are generally free from pests and disease (ref 5)
Warm-Climate Plant Foxtail fern grows outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11, growing in full sun to light shade. Dappled sunlight is best. If it gets too much sun, its leaves may drop. If you're growing multiple plants, space them 18 to 24 inches apart. Foxtail fern can tolerate temperatures as low as 20 degrees Fahrenheit. Where not hardy, foxtail fern may be grown as a houseplant in front of a bright, sunny windowsill with temperatures between 60 and 75 degrees F. The decorative red berries are mildly toxic if eaten, so warn children not to sample them. Water Regularly Foxtail fern tolerates a range of soil types, as long as it is well-draining. Water regularly and deeply, allowing the soil to dry out somewhat between waterings. Do not allow the soil to become flooded or waterlogged. Reduce watering in the winter, but do not allow the soil to become completely dry. Insufficient water may cause leaf drop. If you're growing it in a container, choose a pot with at least one drainage hole. Increase humidity for indoor plants by placing the container on a tray with wet pebbles and misting the plant regularly with room-temperature water. Fertilize Monthly During the growing season, fertilize outdoor plants monthly with 3 ounces of a 10-10-10 fertilizer mixed into 1 gallon of water per 10 square feet of bedding space. Check the label as directions vary among brands. Fertilize indoor plants monthly during the growing season with 7 drops of a liquid 10-10-10 fertilizer per 1 quart of water. Don not fertilize in winter. Winter Considerations Winter temperatures in the mid to low 20s Fahrenheit may damage foliage in the winter. In early spring, trim frost-damaged foliage to help the plant regain its good looks. (ref 6) Disinfect pruning equipment afterwards by soaking tools for 5 minutes in a solution that is equal parts alcohol and water. Rinse with water and air dry. If there is no rainfall, water plants monthly. To help prevent winter dehydration, mulch around the plant with 2 to 3 inches of organic mulch, such as shredded deciduous plant leaves or pine boughs. Remove mulch in the spring, after frosts have passed. (last ref)
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Miss Chen
2018年08月18日
Miss Chen
Each spring a new batch of Easter lilies (Lilium longiflorum) arrives just in time for their namesake holiday. Although many people treat them as annuals, the website Flower Garden Bulbs states they are perennials into U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zone 4.
Timeframe Professional nurseries are experts at forcing Easter lilies to bloom right in time for Easter, whether it falls in March or April. As a perennial, your Easter lily will probably not bloom until June or July of the following year. Procedure Keep your potted plant in the house out of direct sunlight in a room that is about 65 degrees and away from drafts or heating ducts. Remove the foil or plastic casing around the pot when you water the plant to avoid drowning your lily. To enjoy your Easter lily as a perennial, plant the bulbs late in the spring after all danger of frost is over. Plant the bulbs about 3 inches below the soil and 12 to 18 inches apart.
Expert Insight To help ensure that your Easter lily survives into another year in colder areas, protect it through the winter. The Texas Agrilife Extensive Service recommends a mulch of straw, pine needles, leaves, boxes and bags; remove when the plant sprouts in spring.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月18日
Miss Chen
Boston ferns (Nephrolepis exaltata), sometimes called sword ferns, have bright green fronds that grow up to 3 feet long and 6 inches wide. The fronds have serrated edges and a rough texture. They are shade-lovers and grow best in soil that is very rich and lightly moist. Boston ferns are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture zones 8B through 11 and can be planted outdoors during any season. Frost will kill the foliage during winter, but new fronds emerge from the center of the plant once temperatures warm in spring. Step 1 Use a garden fork to loosen the soil 10 to 12 inches deep. Amend with 2 to 3 inches of organic compost. Step 2 Dig a hole the same depth and 2 to 3 inches wider than the fern's root system. Place the roots into the soil at the same level they were growing before. Backfill with the loosened soil and water until it is well-moistened, but not soggy. Step 3 Check the soil regularly and water whenever the top inch is dry. Step 4 Feed once each month, from spring until fall, with houseplant fertilizer. Step 5 Clip off damaged fronds as necessary.
Step 6 Divide every two to three years in early spring.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月16日
Miss Chen
A low-maintenance plant, ferns grow well in most homes. Many ferns are tropical in origin and can only be grown indoors where they are protected from frost. One of the primary reasons the plants suffer is from improper care. Ferns have different light, water and fertilizer requirements when compared to other common houseplants. If the ferns are weak or dying, ensuring they receive what they need to remain healthy usually revives the plants.
Step 1 Move the fern away from direct sunlight, if applicable, as overly bright light burns the plant and causes wilting. Ferns prefer indirect light such as that from a north-facing window. Step 2 Provide humidity around the fern. Fill the drip tray with a 2- to 3-inch layer of pebbles. Add water to the tray until the water level sits jut beneath the top of the pebbles. Set the pot on top of the pebbles and replenish the water in the tray as necessary to maintain the water level. The evaporating moisture from the tray adds humidity to the air around the fern. Step 3 Water the ferns before the soil dries out completely, as these plants require a high-moisture environment. Feel the soil once or twice a week and water as soon as the top inch of soil begins to feel dry but before it dries completely. Water at the base of the fern until the excess moisture drains from the bottom. Too little water causes the fern to wilt or drop fronds. Step 4 Keep ferns in a 68 to 72 degree Fahrenheit room. Temperatures can drop as low as 62 F at night. Most ferns cannot tolerate overly cold or hot temperatures.
Step 5 Fertilize with a weak solution once a month, as over-feeding can kill the plants. Apply a general-purpose, water-soluble houseplant fertilizer at half the rate recommended on the package. Only fertilize growing ferns; the plants don't require fertilization when they are dormant.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月16日
Miss Chen
Sedum plants, also called stonecrop, require very little water to survive. The fleshy, plump leaves store water, making sedums tolerant of drought and dry, harsh conditions. All plants need water, and sedums are no exception — the trick is to water enough to keep the plants happy without watering too much. Sedum plants are easy to over water both in the ground and in containers. An over-watered sedum is likely to flop over and die more quickly than an under-watered sedum.
Step 1 Water sedums in the garden only during hot, dry weather. Press your index finger into the top 2 inches of the soil. If it is dry at the bottom, soak each plant until the ground is damp 4 inches deep. Step 2 Allow sedums to dry out between waterings. In wet and rainy weather, do not provide sedums with additional water. Step 3 Water potted sedums when the top 1 inch of soil dries out. Press your index finger into the soil at the edge of the pot to see how deep the moisture level is.
Step 4 Place the pot into the sink and soak it with water until it runs out of the drainage holes in the bottom of the pot. Leave the pot in the sink to drain before replacing it in its permanent location.
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