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Miss Chen
2018年08月30日
Miss Chen
Shasta daisies (Leucanthemum X superbum) are undemanding plants, but pruning encourages more flowers and stronger growth. These perennials grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 9, and thrive in full sun and well-drained, alkaline soils. They benefit from pruning from mid-summer onward, and dividing plants also encourages healthy growth. Shasta daisies grow 2 to 3 feet tall and 1 1/2 to 2 feet wide, depending on the cultivar.
Fading Flowers Pruning Shasta daisy blooms as they fade encourages more flowers. Shasta daisies can flower less after they set seed, but removing the flowers before seeds develop prompts the plants to bloom again. Sterilize your pruning shear blades by wiping them with rubbing alcohol, and prune Shasta daisies when their petals droop and turn brown. Hold the flower in one hand and feel down to the base of the flower stem with the other hand. Prune the stem at the base, and remove the other fading blooms in the same way. Sterilize your pruning shears again after use. Summer Pruning Shasta daises benefit from pruning when the earliest blooms start to fade. Check your Shasta daisies every week, and prune fading flowers until late summer or the end of blooming. If the soil surface is dry after pruning, water plants until the water begins to puddle on the ground, and feed them with a liquid 15-30-15 fertilizer, which encourages more blooms. Dilute the product at a rate of 1 tablespoon per 1 gallon of water and apply it every 14 days, or dilute and apply the product according to the instructions on the label. Pruning Clumps Severely pruning Shasta daisy clumps in early fall can prolong their lives. Shasta daisies are short-lived perennials, but removing their leaves and stems when flowering is over encourages strong growth, which helps plants store energy for winter. Prune Shasta daisies to 8 inches tall, using sterilized pruning shears, and put the trimmings on the compost pile or in the trash. If your plants are too tall and lanky, pinch out the tips of non-flowering stems with your thumb and forefinger in spring to encourage them to grow more compact and bushy.
Lifting and Dividing Lift and divide Shasta daisies every two or three years to encourage strong, healthy growth and flowering. Dig up a Shasta daisy plant on a cool, cloudy day in winter or early spring by pushing a garden fork into the soil about 6 inches from the plant base and gently levering it up. Do this three or four times around the base until the root ball lifts out of the soil. Divide the plant into three sections by pushing a sharp spade down through the roots, and plant the sections 24 to 36 inches apart at their original growing depths. Water the plants thoroughly and continue to water them regularly so that the soil stays moist.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月30日
Miss Chen
Sometimes, divide and conquer is the best way to deal with unruly established hydrangeas (Hydrangea spp.) or those that you planted in too tight a spot. You can use the same technique recommended for dividing most perennials -- digging up the plant at the most auspicious moment and dividing the root clump into two or more plants.
Hefty Hydrangeas You thought your kids grew fast -- that small hydrangea pot you purchase today at the garden store won't waste any time in expanding, if you provide well-drained soil, partial sun and sufficient irrigation. A clump of hydrangeas 10 feet tall and with an even larger width is not unusual, and these plants grow fast in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 11, depending on species. If your established plant outgrows its space, it may be time to split the baby. Dividing a Hydrangea The trickiest part about dividing hydrangeas is to figure out the ideal time. Many tout spring as the perfect moment, just after the plant leaves dormancy and fine weather is just around the corner. But according to experts at Perennials.com, the only perennials that should be divided in spring are those that flower after mid-June. Those that flower before mid-June do best when divided in the fall, just before dormancy. With hydrangeas, the time the shrub flowers depends on the species and cultivar. What Flowers When Five types of hydrangeas are cultivated in the United States, and the most popular species is the well-known bigleaf (Hydrangea macrophylla) that thrives in USDA zones 5 through 11. Bigleaf, as well as several other hydrangea species, begins blooming in midsummer and carries on through August or September, depending on cultivar and climate. These hydrangeas should be divided in the spring. If your hydrangea blooms before mid-June, you should divide in late fall. Long Division If you're dividing your hydrangea in spring, wait until you see an inch or two of new shoots, and then dig up the clump. Using a narrow, long spade -- termed a rabbiting spade -- dig a deep circle around the clump, and then pry the root ball out of the ground and set it on a tarp. Knock or wash off loose soil. Cut the clump into two or more pieces with a clean, sterilized garden knife, trying to find a natural point of separation if possible. Cut each of these pieces into sections again if the size of the clump merits it. Each section should have both green shoots above and roots below.
Replanting the Pieces Replant the sections immediately in moist, well-drained soil in a location that gets afternoon sun. If you have a bigleaf hydrangea, remember that the flowers will turn blue in acidic soil and pink in alkaline soil. Plant each piece at about the same depth as it was growing. Water the area well after planting, and add a 2- to 3-inch layer of organic compost over the root area, keeping it a few inches from the hydrangea stem.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月29日
Miss Chen
Salvia (Salvia spp.), commonly known as sage, is a plant group that ranges from annuals to woody perennials hardy from U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 11. Many varieties are used for cooking and present fragrant ornamental foliage. Aromatic blooms range from white to shades of pink, red or purple-blue. Sages may flower from spring through fall, or deliver seasonal flushes of color. Perennial sages often develop old, woody stems and require pruning to stay attractive. This cleans up the plant and elicits a second burst of blooms and growth. If your sage looks a little listless, a haircut may be all it needs.
Sterilize your pruning implements with household disinfectant before and after your prune your sage to prevent the spread of disease. Use sharp, bypass pruning shears for clean, healthy cuts on woody stems. Garden scissors shape up soft annual and perennials stems. Wear gloves to protect your hands.
Prune off dead and damaged sage stems any time of year, but leave most stems until spring when the plant begins to grow again and danger of frost has passed. The old stems, though unsightly, protect new growth. When new shoots emerge at the plant's the base and on stems, cut old woody stems back to new growth. Cut dead, soft stems to the ground.
Trim soft-stemmed perennial sages in the summer to encourage re-blooming. Wait until after the first burst of blooms, then remove at least half of the plant. If you have a mass planting of sage, cut plants at different levels to keep a natural look. The plants will reward you by bouncing back quickly with renewed vigor and lots of blossoms.
Deadhead sage to remove old flower spikes throughout the growing season. This helps encourage more blooms, shape the plant and neaten its appearance. Hold the end of a spent flower spike and move down with your other hand until just below the bloom. This method prevents you from chopping off a stalk you don't want to cut.
Pick up all fallen leaves, spent flower heads and pruned stems around your sage. If there is any sign of disease, dispose of the debris instead of composting it. This reduces the chances of fungal infections spreading. Always check for signs of pests, but sages have few problems with insects.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月29日
Miss Chen
Purslane, scientific name Portulaca oleracea, is an annual, edible succulent plant. It is also called Pusley, Verdolaga, Pigweed, and Hogweed.
Description Purslane has a thick reddish stem and succulent, rounded leaves that grow in clusters. Its flowers are small and yellow, with five petals, and they bloom according to rainfall or moisture. It grows low to the ground and tends to spread. Origin Purslane originated in North Africa, the Middle East, and India. It probably spread to North America and elsewhere prior to the mid-1400s. Cultivation Purslane is an easy plant to grow, even in an arid climate. As a succulent, it is heat- and drought-tolerant, and a very hardy plant. In fact, it is often considered a weed in North America. It tends to sprawl across the ground, and will need to be cut back to be maintained. Check with regulations in your area before planting purslane; in some regions it is considered an invasive weed. Culinary Uses All parts of Purslane are edible: leaves, flowers, and stem. It has a slightly sweet and sour flavor and a chewy texture. It is commonly eaten fresh, cooked, or in soups and stews. Interesting Facts Purslane is sometimes known as the Dolly Parton flower because of when it blooms--from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.
Purslane is a good source of Omega-3 fatty acids and Vitamins A and C. It is considered a edible plant in Mexican, Russian, and Mediterranean cultures, among others.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月29日
Miss Chen
The Hawaiian ti, or Cordyline fruticosa, is a lovely plant, distinctive with dark maroon leaves that emerge from the top of tall canes. It grows naturally not only in the Pacific Islands, but in tropical areas of Asia and Australia, and has become a popular houseplant. Ti plant is a fast grower, and before you know it, it can reach heights of more than 3 feet. Occasional pruning will keep the ti plant healthy, neat, shapely, and within its boundaries.
Step 1 Begin with a pair of sharp garden pruners, which won't be likely to tear the tender tissues of the plant. Clean the pruners with a mixture of one part water to nine parts household bleach. Working with clean shears will prevent bacteria or disease from spreading from plant to plant. Step 2 Remove brown, yellow, shriveled or distorted leaves as they appear, as the ti plant will attempt to repair the damaged leaves at the expense of the rest of the plant. Dead and diseased leaves can also invite insects and mildew. Groom the ti plant as the need arises to prevent the need for more drastic pruning.
Step 3 Trim the ti plant to control the size if it grows too large, or to maintain the ti's pleasant shape. It's safe to cut the ti plant it back as much as 6 inches from the top of the soil. Hold the stalk steady in one hand and prune the stalk the desired height with sharp garden shears. Although cutting down to 6 inches may seem drastic, healthy new shoots will grow from the remaining shoot.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月29日
Miss Chen
Fragrant lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) supplies year-round garden interest, with aromatic flowers in summer and gray-green evergreen foliage. The small shrubs grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 9, where they thrive with very little maintenance beyond pruning. The right time and method for pruning depends on the age of the plant and the type of trim it needs. Spring Pruning
New plants need to be pruned in spring when new green growth has appeared. Spring pruning prevents flowering but encourages branching, allowing the new lavender to develop strong roots and a full framework of branches. Before pruning, wipe the shears with a cloth soaked in isopropyl alcohol to disinfect them, and then disinfect the shears each time you begin pruning a new plant. Cut back the stem tips by 2 to 3 inches, lightly shaping to maintain an even, rounded shape. Deadheading and Harvest
Lavender may flower a second time if you prune off the old flowers after the first flush of summer blooms. Prune off the flowers a second time in late summer if the plant flowers again. Deadhead after the flowers open and begin to wilt if you want lavender blooms in the garden. For harvesting and drying, cut off the flowers when only two or three buds on the flower spikes have opened. Trim out the spikes with disinfected shears, cutting the stem so the cut end is inside the main bush and not visible. For harvesting, tie the harvested spikes together in bundles and hang them in a dark, dry area until the buds are completely dry. Summer Shaping
Main pruning occurs in summer, after the flower harvest. Cut back up to one-third of the leafy section of the stems, shaping the lavender into an evenly rounded mound as you prune. Avoid cutting into the woody stem bases. Lavender will not regrow from the lower stem sections, so cutting into wood will leave bare spots in the bush and weaken the lavender. Although summer, after the plant flowers, is the best time to prune, you can prune into late summer or early fall. However, avoid pruning in late fall because frost can damage the new growth encouraged by pruning. Rejuvenating Woody Plants
Woody, overgrown lavender plants develop sparse foliage and may fall open, or split. In most cases replacement is the best option, but you may be able to rejuvenate the lavender with careful pruning. Prune for rejuvenation in spring when new growth begins showing on the stems. Cut back all the green stems to within 1 inch of the woody portion at the base, but don't remove the green completely. The lavender may produce fuller growth in response.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月29日
Miss Chen
If you're growing a weigela (Weigela spp.) or you're thinking of planting one, you probably know that it's an especially easy-to-grow shrub. A tough plant that has masses of colorful flowers in late spring or early summer, a weigela is cold-tolerant and grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 9, depending on the variety. Whatever type of weigela you grow, it's a good idea to give it a bit of extra care as winter approaches and at winters end to help keep it flourishing.
Fall Preparation Although a weigela is a deciduous plant that drops its leaves in fall, its roots continue functioning for a while and don't become dormant as quickly as the top growth. Because of this, it's important to support good root growth during fall, especially if your weigela is newly planted. Continue watering the shrub during fall, giving it extra water whenever the top 1 to 2 inches of its soil feel dry to the touch. Moist soil also tends to stay warm longer than dry soil, so watering through fall helps keep the roots warm. Adding a 6- or 8-inch layer of organic mulch, such as straw or shredded bark, in fall helps conserve soil moisture and keeps roots growing as long as possible. In cold-winter areas, mulch also protects the plant from freeze-thaw cycles that cause the ground to expand and contract. These cycles can heave roots out of the ground and damage them. Winter Sun Damage Because a weigela has no leaves in winter, its stems are susceptible to a problem called sun scald, which happens when sun heats up the bark on bright but cold days, stimulating activity in the stem that can be followed by tissue damage when the sun goes down and the stem is chilled. This is especially likely in a young or recently transplanted shrub, or in one planted where its south-facing side is unprotected. If sun scald develops, you'll see dried or cracked bark, or areas on a stem that are sunken or shriveled. You can help prevent sun scald by wrapping the larger stems on a weigela with a commercial tree wrap or a light-colored plastic tree guard. If your weigela is bushy and has only thin stems that aren't easily wrapped, provide some shade on the south-facing side by stapling a sheet of burlap to two or three stakes driven into the ground near the south-facing side of the shrub. At Winter's End Although weigela is a hardy plant, it's prone to winter dieback, especially in areas with harsh winters. Because of this, it's a good idea to examine the plant at the end of winter and prune off any dead stems.
Double-check stems that look dead by scratching the bark with a fingernail. If tissue under the bark is greenish white, the stem is healthy, but dry tissue indicates the stem has died back. Remove dead stems by cutting into healthy tissue behind the damaged part, using sharp shears or a pruning knife that you wipe with rubbing alcohol between each cut to prevent spreading disease. You can also remove any broken or damaged branches at the end of winter, but a weigela has its heaviest flowering in spring on the previous season's growth, so it's best you don't prune heavily in winter to preserve flower buds. If your shrub is older and overgrown, you can stimulate its growth by pruning off a few large branches at the end of winter. Cut these off near the shrub's base to let light into its interior so new shoots can form.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月28日
Miss Chen
The large, showy blooms of peonies tempt many gardeners to include them in a landscape. Peonies (Paeonia spp.) grow native in a wide variety of locations, including meadows and rocky ares. They typically prefer cool weather, but adapt readily to different garden conditions in Texas if properly cared for.
Best Locations Different peony species require different growing conditions. Herbaceous garden peonies (Paeonia lactiflora) need at least six hours of full sun a day to bloom. In warm locations, afternoon sun helps prevent the flowers from fading. Tree peonies (Paeonia suffruticosa) prefer dappled shade. They do need part sun conditions to bloom, but must be protected from afternoon sunlight. Tree peonies and garden peonies also grow in different hardiness zones. Texas covers U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 6 through 9. Tree peonies are hardy in USDA zones 5 through 9, and can be grown throughout the state. Garden peonies are hardy in USDA zones 3 through 8, and will not grow in the southern plains and parts of the Gulf Coast. Planting Tips Peonies need deep, fertile soil that is well-drained but stays moist. In parts of Texas where soils are either dry and sandy or hard clay, amend the soil with well-rotted manure, compost or finely ground pine bark before planting. To do this, spread the organic matter 1 to 2 inches thick across the soil and then work it in to a depth of 12 inches. Garden peonies are typically sold bare-root. Dig a hole 12 to 18 inches deep and wide, then mound soil up in the middle of the hole to make a cone shape. Spread the roots out over the cone so that the swollen pink or reddish buds at the top of the plant are no more than 1 inch below the soil surface once the roots are covered. Plant tree peonies the same way, making sure the graft union is an inch below ground level. Space both types of peonies 3 to 4 feet apart. Both garden and tree peonies do best when planted in late summer or early fall, which gives them time to develop a strong root system before winter sets in without the stress of hot weather. Fertilizer Needs Fertilizing at planting time is optional. If you choose to fertilize, add 1/4 to 1/2 cup of dry, granular fertilizer with an N-P-K ratio of 10-10-10 to the bottom of the hole for each plant. It should not touch plant roots, so place it before making the cone of soil. You can also add 1/2 cup of bone meal or superphosphate at the same time. On a yearly basis, fertilize peonies with a slow-release, low-nitrogen fertilizer that has an N-P-K ratio of 5-10-5 or 10-10-10. In the spring, when stems are 2 or 3 inches high, apply this fertilizer at a rate of 2 to 3 pounds per 100 square feet, or 1/2 cup per plant. Don't let the fertilizer touch plant stems, and be sure to follow label directions.
Watering Peonies Water peonies thoroughly after planting, then often enough to keep the soil moist but not soggy for the first year. It is better to water deeply rather than frequently, since deep watering encourages deep root systems. If watering causes run-off, give the water time to soak into the soil and them come back and finish watering. Once peonies are established, they need about an inch of water per week during the growing season. In dry areas of Texas, water peonies every week if there has been less than an inch of rain. If plants start to wilt during hot Texas summers, you can water more than an inch a week, or enough to keep the soil moist. To help cool the roots and retain moisture, apply 2 to 3 inches of an organic mulch in the spring, making sure it doesn't touch the crown of the plant.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月28日
Miss Chen
Hostas--also called plaintain lilies--are low-growing foliage plants with large, showy leaves that can range in color from deep green through chartreuse into deep blue, with white, lavender or purple blooms in August. There are also variegated cultivars featuring cream, white or yellow centers or borders. Hostas excel as ground cover and add texture and interest to shaded sections of landscapes. Hostas can perform well in Texas as long as they are of the proper cultivar and don't get too much scorching summer sun.
Step 1 Choose vigorous, healthy hostas cultivars with the best chances for growing well in Texas. According to the Texas A and M University Extension, good hostas varieties for Texas gardeners include the green-leafed lancifolia and royal standard cultivars, the blue-leafed blue cadet and blue angel types and the variegated sugar and cream and so sweet varieties. Examine the plant before purchase to make sure it is free of pests and diseases. Step 2 Choose a planting site in shade or partial sun with afternoon shade and make sure it has rich, moist soil. For more specific recommendations on sunlight, check the cultivar; blue-leaf hostas require more shade than green-leaf varieties, and too much bright sun will bleach out the leaf coloration of the yellow cultivars. Step 3 Prepare the garden bed in the spring by using a pitchfork to loosen soil to a depth of 12 to 15 inches, then mixing in a 2 to 4-inch layer of compost. Step 4 Dig a planting hole twice the size of the container the hosta was sold in, and place the hosta in the hole so the top of the root ball is level with the soil surface. Backfill with garden soil and firmly tamp the soil into place but don't press so hard that the soil becomes compacted. Space hostas 36 inches apart if planting more than one. Water your hostas well after planting, and continue to water regularly to keep the soil moist.
Step 5 Apply a 2 1/2-inch layer of mulch to protect the roots, conserve moisture and provide a physical barrier against disease. Step 6 Fertilize hostas in early spring with a balanced slow-release granular fertilizer in a 10-10-10 NPK formulation. According to the University of Georgia Cooperative Extension, the fertilizer should be applied at a rate of 1/2 pound per 100 square feet. Step 7 Watch your hostas closely for damage from slugs, to which they are very susceptible. At the first sign of damage use slug bait or make a beer trap by leaving a saucer of beer by the hostas at night; slugs will crawl in and drown.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月28日
Miss Chen
Large, silken-textured flowers of many colors grace peony (Paeonia spp.) bushes during the spring. Fall care helps spring blooms, but how you should care for peonies in the fall depends on what type of peony you're growing. Most common is the non-woody herbaceous peony (Paeonia lactiflora), hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 8. It dies back in fall and renews its growth from underground tubers each spring. Tree peony (Paeonia suffruticosa), growing in USDA zones 4 through 8, forms a deciduous woody shrub that remains in the garden year-round.
Cutting Back Foliage If you have herbaceous peonies, remove all the old stems in late fall after the first frost turns the foliage yellow. Before cutting the stems, dip clean, sharp pruner blades in rubbing alcohol to lessen the chance of spreading disease. Discard all the cut foliage to prevent a fungal disease called botrytis blight or gray mold, which affects peonies and can survive the winter months in composted old stems. Providing Winter Protection Protect peonies from the winter cold, especially in colder areas of their hardiness zones. In late fall, give herbaceous perennials a mulch layer 2 to 3 inches thick, using an organic material such as shredded bark or straw. You can wait until after the ground freezes to apply mulch. For tree peonies in colder areas, such as zones 4 and 5, wrap the bush with burlap in late fall to provide protection against winds as well as cold temperatures. Pruning Shrubs Although tree peonies usually don't need much pruning, older bushes may become leggy. To renew the growth, prune the oldest tree peony branches back to the base in fall after the leaves drop. Clean the pruners with rubbing alcohol before pruning. However, if your tree peony is grafted rather than growing on its own roots, it's best not to do renewal pruning. Instead, moderately cut back some of the lower branches to fill out the base of the bush. Fertilizing Peonies If you want to use an organic fertilizer such as aged compost or aged manure, in late fall add a 2-inch-thick layer of either material on top of the soil around established peony bushes. If you use inorganic fertilizers, wait until spring.
Moving Plants If you need to relocate either herbaceous or tree peonies, fall is the best time. Carefully dig around and then under the roots, taking care not to damage the fleshy tubers. Lever the peony out of the ground, disturbing the root mass as little as possible. Transplant it in the new location, which should be in sun with well-draining, rich soil. Keep the plant at its original soil level, and water it well. Dividing Plants Large, established herbaceous peonies can be divided in the fall to renew growth or to make new plants, although clumps can grow in place for 40 or 50 years without division. To divide a plant, cut back the foliage, and then carefully dig up the peony and shake or wash the dirt away from the root system. Use a sharp knife cleaned with rubbing alcohol and cut the clump into divisions, each holding three to five eyes and several roots. Eyes are the buds on top of the crown that grow into new stems. Replant each piece in its new garden location, placing the buds 1 to 2 inches below the soil surface. Water the divisions thoroughly.
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