绿手指
首页
动态
文章
百科
花园
设置
简体中文
已关注
+
关注
花园 (4)
动态 (4985)
Miss Chen
2018年09月08日
Miss Chen
荆树疙瘩盆景外形多变，枝叶常绿，绽放出的紫色花朵伴有淡淡馨香，观赏价值极高。同时，荆树也具有顽强的生命力，能很好地适应恶劣的生长环境。荆树不仅喜欢光照和温暖，同时也耐阴耐寒，而且对土壤要求并不高，喜欢湿润，所以根据其这些习性特点，我们就能很好地掌握其生长规律，为其创造良好的生长环境。 荆树疙瘩盆景的养护 既然荆树盆景生命力顽强，能适应比较恶劣的而生长环境，自然比较容易将其种养好。即便放在室内养护，往往也比较容易将其养好。那么，荆树盆景怎么养呢？下面，小编就为大家分享一下荆树疙瘩盆景的养护管理方法。
一、盆土 荆树的许多品种都比较耐贫瘠，对土壤的要求比较低，即便是在轻度盐碱化的土壤环境中，往往也能成活。但为了让其更好地保持生长，一般我们还是需要为其配制肥沃疏松、透气透水的土壤环境。而且我们需要使用深盆进行种养，虽然荆树是浅根性树种，但其根系仍然比较发达，比较喜欢深厚的土壤。 二、光照 荆树喜欢光照，尤其是在生长季。当光照充分时，树木长势更好，原创：wWw.pJCn.Org其叶片会更加鲜绿，观赏价值更高。但在夏季的烈日下也建议适当遮阴，避免其叶片被灼伤。同时，荆树也比较耐阴，所以也适合摆放在室内养护。不过，室内环境也不能过于荫蔽，一般摆放在向阳的明亮处，这样可以接收散射光以保持正常的光合作用。 三、温度 荆树喜欢温暖的生长环境，所以在我国南方的广大地区常常见到其身影。不过，荆树也比较耐寒，甚至能承受-5°C的低温环境，尤其是黑荆树，甚至可以短期承受-60°C的超低温环境而不会被冻死。只不过，荆树对霜冻比较敏感，所以冬季气温过低时也需要及时做好保暖御寒措施，避免发生冻害而影响越冬。 四、浇水 虽然荆树比较喜欢湿润的生长环境，但其耐水能力并不强，如果浇水过多而造成树木的根系长期浸泡在水中的话，往往会引起闷根的现象，尤其是在高温天气下。所以，只要盆土不适特别干燥，一般没有必要急着浇水，而通常需要等到盆土变干后再浇透水。 五、施肥 荆树具有顽强的生命力，这在野外的生长过程种就能得到很好的体现。由于荆树比较耐贫瘠，对肥料的依赖程度并不高，即便施肥，往往也以稀薄为主。切不可大量施肥，否则比较容易引起枝叶徒长现象，容易改变盆景的造型，从而影响观赏。
六、病虫 由于土壤中的有害病菌比较多，这对于荆树疙瘩而言，往往危害比较大。所以除了上盆之外建议对盆土进行消毒杀菌处理之外，平时在养护管理过程中也要做好防治工作。而不同的荆树品种有时也容易遭受到不同的病虫害的侵袭，常见的有炭疽病、立枯病、流胶病、黑蚱、金龟子类、蝶蛾类、叶甲类等。所以平时除了要提高比较适宜的生长环境之外，同时也要做好相关管护工作。 当然，以上几点是养好荆树疙瘩盆景的几个重要方面，想要让荆树疙瘩盆景保持良好的观赏状态，往往还需要做好修剪、整形、换盆等相关工作，在这里小编就不再一一赘述，希望大家在实践中多去探索和总结。
1
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月08日
Miss Chen
又到了吃荔枝的季节了！“壳如红缯，膜如紫绡，瓤肉莹白如冰雪，浆液甘酸如醴酪”，一颗荔枝就能给人满满的幸福感。但大神已经不仅仅局限在吃荔枝了，而是用荔枝核养出盆栽！荔枝盆栽多以观赏为主，一般用于点缀和美化家居环境，而进入到普通的家庭中又主要以矮化产品和盆栽管理的方式进行。在株形高度上，往往以100公分左右为宜，而为了控制株形，达到矮化的目的，可以采取减少盆内土壤量、控制水肥和人工摘芽等方式来管理，这样才能达到以观赏为目的的效果。今天，小编就为大家分享一下盆栽荔枝的养殖方法。 盆栽荔枝的养殖方法 荔枝盆栽多使用浅盆种植荔枝核，以3份河沙与1份腐殖土混合搭配拌匀后使用，当然如果能找到泥炭土更好，甚至可以直接上盆种植。待果核都成苗吐绿后，就可以当做盆栽进行养殖管理了。而盆栽荔枝的养护管理工作主要表现在光温、水肥、修剪、整形及病虫害等方面。
一、光照 荔枝对于光照的要求比较高，即便作为盆栽种养，一般也需要将其摆放在向阳的地方。因为光照充足的话，植株才能有效促进光合作用，从而确保植株生长更加健壮。而且如果花果阶段提供充足的光照，可以促进开花结果，促进果实的发育，进而提升果实的品质。但如果光线过强的话，水分蒸发量也大，所以开花授粉也比较困难。而挂果期却需要充足的光照才能增进果色，提高果实品质。 二、温度 荔枝的正常生长受温度的影响比较大，尤其是在花果期，往往对温度更加敏感。荔枝的根系在23℃-26℃的温度环境下往往生长最为迅速，而空间温度达到16℃以上才能顺利萌发新梢，通常植株在24℃-29℃的环境下往往生长最快。而当气温气温达到13℃时，荔枝会逐渐开花，温度达到20℃-24℃时开花最旺，但为了确保花芽正常分化，一般要求花期温度不能超过27℃。可见，荔枝这种果树是比较喜欢温暖的。 三、浇水 荔枝的生长需要充足的水分，尤其是为了促进新梢的萌发，原创：wWw.pJCn.ORg一般每周要浇一次透水，否则在缺水的情况下，植株的萌发会受到一定影响。而水分充足时，往往会长得枝繁叶茂，同时也比较利于长成成熟的结果枝。而在抽穗后，也应当适当增加浇水以促进花穗的生长，而果实膨大期间需要量往往更多，可以促进果实的生长发育。但浇水过多而造成盆内积水的话，往往也会容易造成落果现象，而且还可能引起果实出现霜霉病。 四、施肥 由于盆栽荔枝幼树的长势往往比较弱，主要是由于其根系分布比较差，而且花盆大小与土量所限，所以上盆定植前两年一般以浇施稀薄、腐熟的鸡粪水、豆饼水或复合肥水肥为主，配合化肥施用，以薄肥寝室为原则。适当地追肥，可以加速荔枝快速形成树冠，为开花结果打好基础。 五、修剪 盆栽荔枝的修剪一般在可在四季进行，但以春剪、夏剪、冬剪为主。春剪通常在每年的3-5月期间进行；夏剪多在盛夏的7-8月期间进行；冬剪一般从12月开始到来年的2月期间进行。但修剪一般以剪除病虫枝、生长过密枝、老弱细枝为主。适当的修剪，不仅可以促进新枝的萌发，同时也能保持良好的株型。 六、整形 荔枝的整形一般从上盆定植2-3年内完成，通常将矮干、主枝分布均匀而紧凑的植株剪成半圆头型树冠。在盆栽的不同方向上保留3-5个主枝，每个主枝再培育2-3个副主枝，最终形成盆栽荔枝的骨干部分。而当主枝与副主枝之间形成的分叉角度比较小时，可以通过拉、撑、顶等手段进行调整直到需要的角度，从而让盆栽的株型更加美观。
七、病虫 荔枝树比较容易遭受炭疽病、蝽蟓、尺蠖、叶瘿蚊等病虫害的侵袭，所以平时在养护管理期间需要为植株提供一个良好的生长氛围，避免感染病虫害。而一旦遭受这些病虫害时，要及时喷药予以杀之。而可以使用的药物有甲基托布津、味鲜胺、百泰、阿维菌素、敌敌畏、杀灭菊酯等，按照合适的比例兑水稀释再喷杀。
1
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月08日
Miss Chen
Peonies (Paeonia spp.) can grow well in containers. Common garden peonies (Paeonia lactiflora), which are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 8, are herbaceous perennials that die down in fall. Tree peonies (Paeonia suffruticosa, USDA zones 4 through 8) are woody shrubs. Select containers that complement your garden's style, such as metal containers for contemporary gardens, faded terracotta for Mediterranean gardens, or decorative clay pots for cottage gardens.
Containers for Growing Peonies Peonies need large containers with drainage holes. Peony root balls are large, and their containers should fit the root balls without crushing them, plus another inch or two of space around root balls' sides and bases. A 5-gallon container is usually large enough for one peony. Most frost-proof containers are suitable, including clay, wood and plastic. Common garden peonies don't tolerate transplanting well, and tree peonies are slow-growing, so both plants should stay in their containers for three or four years. Heavy containers such as clay help prevent tree peonies from blowing over in strong winds, but dry out quickly compared to wood and plastic containers. Wood containers made of cypress or cedar are rot-resistant. Sites and Potting Soils Full-sun or partially shaded sites are best for growing peonies, and the plants need organically-rich, well-draining potting soil. These large plants are heavy and difficult to move, so choose your growing site well, or place the pots on boards with wheels. A mixture of soilless potting soil and well-rotted manure or rich garden compost is suitable for growing peonies. You can buy commercial soilless potting soil or you can mix your own using 1 part sphagnum peat moss and 1 part perlite or vermiculite. Mix 2 shovels of potting soil with 1 shovel of manure or compost, and fill the containers with this mixture. Every spring, when new growth appears on the peonies, scrape the loose potting soil mixture from the surface of the containers and replace it with fresh mixture. Water and Fertilizer Peonies in containers need more water and fertilizer than plants in the ground. Water the peonies when the soil surface is dry. Slowly pour water over the potting soil until it appears through the drainage holes in the base of the container. In hot weather, peonies may need watering once or more per day.
Fertilize peonies in pots once every month while the plants are in leaf. Dilute 1/2 teaspoon of a liquid 15-30-15 fertilizer in 1 gallon of water, and apply the solution to the potting soil. You can replace water with fertilizer solution if the peonies need watering. Manufacturer's instructions vary between products, so read and follow the instructions on the label. Frost Protection An advantage of growing peonies in containers is that you can move them indoors to protect them from frosts. Freezing temperatures can damage peonies and affect flowering in the following season. When common garden peonies have died down and tree peonies have lost all their leaves, move the containers to an unheated indoor area, such as a garage. Water the containers when the soil surface is dry to a depth of 1 inch. The peonies aren't growing and using water at this time. It's important not to water so much that the potting soil becomes soggy, which can cause rotting. Move the containers outdoors again when new growth appears in spring.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月08日
Miss Chen
For a colorful, showy display of flowers, few plants out-perform the peony (Paeonia spp.), a perennial that grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 8, with some variation among the different varieties. Although most peonies are attractive even when not in bloom, it can be discouraging when a plant fails to bloom or produces only a few flowers. Giving a peony some extra care or making a few adjustments can help prevent or correct this problem.
Plant Maturity and Depth A peony might not bloom simply because it's too immature; in that case, all you need to do is wait a while to see flowers. If you've recently planted a new, nursery-grown peony, it may take several years to reach a size and maturity that can support flowering. It could take even longer to see flowers -- up to four or five years -- if you've grown the plant from seed. If you're dividing a larger plant to make new plants, the number of dormant buds, or "eyes," on each new division can also influence the length of time before flowers appear. To speed flowering by these new plants, make large divisions with at least three to five eyes each. Planting peonies too deeply can also inhibit flowering, so position new plants or divisions so buds are no more than 1 or 2 inches below the soil surface. Correct Fertilizer Although peonies benefit from rich soil that contains a good supply of nutrients, it's important to feed the plants properly and not use too much nitrogen, which can promote growth of stems and leaves at the expense of flowers. For best results, select a granular, low-nitrogen fertilizer such as 5-10-10, applying it at a rate of 2 to 3 pounds per 100 square feet of planted area. Apply the fertilizer once per season in the spring, when the plant's stems are about 3 inches tall, working it carefully into the ground. Keep fertilizer away from the plant's stems to prevent burning, and don't disturb tender new shoots; water the fertilizer in well. Sun and Other Issues Peonies need abundant light to set flower buds, so pick a planting site that gets at least six or more hours of full sun daily; a spot that gets too much shade can result in few or no flowers. If you have a peony that's recently stopped blooming, this could be because other nearby plants have become large and block the peony's access to light. Prune back surrounding plants as needed to give the peony more light, or consider relocating the peony to a brighter spot. Removing leaves and stems as you tidy the garden during the summer can also contribute to poor flowering because this weakens the plant and interferes with its ability to store energy for the next year. Delay cleanup until fall, when the plant's growth has slowed and foliage is wilted and partly dry.
Disease Control Sometimes you might see flower buds develop on a peony plant that don't enlarge, and they eventually dry up and drop off the plant. This can indicate the presence of a fungal disorder such as blight or leaf blotch that stops the bud from producing a flower. These diseases might also cause black spots on leaves and stems. They are best prevented by keeping foliage as dry as possible, so water only at the plant's base on sunny days, and cut peonies back to the ground in late fall, removing all plant debris that can harbor fungal microorganisms. Wear gloves and clean pruning blades in rubbing alcohol between each cut to prevent spreading disease.
1
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月08日
Miss Chen
The plant commonly called vinca (Catharanthus roseus) grows as a short, upright bush, covered in small pink or magenta flowers. It grows as a perennial in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 11 but can be treated as a summer annual elsewhere. Vinca's close cousins, greater periwinkle (Vinca major), which grows in USDA zones 7 through 9, and common periwinkle (Vinca minor), which grows in USDA zones 4 through 9, can become invasive, but vinca doesn't usually spread beyond its garden bed. Care Basics
Vinca flowers best in full sun. Although it can tolerate partial shade, too much shade inhibits flowering and results in sparse foliage. Trailing varieties can spread more than 18 inches wide, creating a sprawling ground cover, but most have a bushy form. Vinca can readily self-seed, even in areas where it usually grows as an annual, so plant it in beds where you plan to continue growing it or remove the seedlings when you see them. Watering Needs
Drought-tolerant vinca survives even with infrequent watering. Water the soil only during extended dry periods if the plants begin to wilt even at night, otherwise rainfall and water from nearby areas of the yard will provide enough water. Vinca leaves may curl and appear wilted during the day when it's hot and dry, but they don't need additional water if they still unfurl during the cooler nights. Applying a 2-inch layer of mulch over the bare soil surrounding the plants conserves soil moisture and further minimizes the need for watering. Pull mulch back so it doesn't rest against the base of the vinca plants. Regular Maintenance
Once established, vinca doesn't require much care. If the plant looks sparse, cut back stems to encourage branching and new growth. Wipe the shears with a rubbing alcohol-soaked cloth before making a cut to disinfect them. Vinca also doesn't require deadheading, dropping its blooms naturally after the flower wilts. Light fertilization once a month during the spring and summer growing season helps keep the plants healthy. Water with an all-purpose soluble fertilizer. For example, 1 tablespoon of a 24-8-16 blend mixed with 1 gallon of water provides enough to feed 10 square feet of vinca plants. Common Problems
Most vinca problems come from too much moisture or improper watering. Stem and root rot, fungal leaf spots and botrytis blight are most common in wet, overwatered beds or from wet foliage. Avoid overhead watering and keep water from splashing onto the leaves to prevent most diseases. Aphids may sometimes feed on the plant, but you can rinse them off with a blast of water from the garden hose. When rinsing off aphids, do so in the morning so the leaves dry before nightfall.
1
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月08日
Miss Chen
Adenium obesum, commonly called desert rose, stands out among other desert plants with its trumpet-shaped flowers and gray, elephantine trunk. It adds a splash of color and visual interest to low-water gardens where few other flowering shrubs thrive. Desert rose requires minimal upkeep and care. The plant must be grown under the right conditions and provided with care early on so it thrives. Climate and Temperature
Desert rose comes from the arid climates of eastern Africa and the Arabian peninsula. As a result, it tolerates extreme heat well and is intolerant of cold weather. Desert rose performs best in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10a through 12, where temperatures stay reliably above 33 degrees Fahrenheit. In warmer climates, desert rose blooms and retains its leathery, dark green foliage year-round, but it may enter dormancy if nighttime temperatures dip below 40 F or if daytime temperatures stay below 64 F. Cover outdoor plants if cold weather if forecast and move potted desert roses indoors, if possible. Sunlight and Soil
Full sun and fast-draining soil are key to successfully growing a desert rose. An unshaded south-facing bed with at least 4 square feet of space is best for garden growing, although the soil must be porous with a moderate nutrient content. Grow desert rose in a container in marginal areas where winter cold snaps are common. Repot the plant every two years into a shallow, slightly larger pot to force vertical growth and show off the plant's unusual swollen trunk. Use a mixture of standard potting soil amended with one-third coarse sand to strike the right balance between nutrient content and drainage. Use a pot with drainage holes. Seasonal Watering
The watering needs of a desert rose vary significantly throughout the year. Water weekly during the late spring and summer, providing roughly 1 inch of water each time. Increase water by one-half during especially hot or windy weather to prevent dehydration, but always allow the soil to dry out completely between waterings to prevent root rot. The plant needs little to no supplemental water during autumn and winter, especially in years with normal rainfall. Only provide water during the colder months if no rain falls for longer than two weeks. For a pot-grown desert rose, provide just enough water during the winter to keep it from shriveling. Nutrient Needs
The desert rose is an efficient feeder and it doesn't generally need fertilizer. Its nutrient needs vary according to age and growing conditions. Most desert rose plants grow quickly during their first three to five years and will quickly exhaust the nutrient supply of their soil if it isn't supplemented. A pot-grown desert rose may have a similar issue, although it is ongoing throughout its life. Dissolve 1/4 teaspoon of 15-15-15 or 7-9-5 ratio fertilizer in 1 gallon of water. Water the plant with the mixture every two weeks. Apply the fertilizer solution only during the spring and summer, and always apply it to moist soil to prevent root burn. Toxic Sap
Desert rose has a few drawbacks. The most significant consideration to make before growing it in your garden is the potential danger of the toxic sap. Desert rose exudes a watery, slightly sticky sap from its leaves, stems and flowers when it is pruned or damaged. The sap contains glycosides that can cause an irregular heartbeat or possibly kill someone who eats parts of the plant. People and pets are both affected by the toxic elements in desert rose sap, so don't grow the plant where curious children or pets play.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月08日
Miss Chen
Large flowers in bright, bold colors make gerbera daisy (Gerbera jamesonii) a show-stopper in garden displays. Also called Barberton daisy, African daisy and Transvaal daisy, gerbera daisy is perennial outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11 but is often grown as an annual. It also grows well indoors. A gerbera daisy plant performs best in well-drained soil that is rich in organic matter and in a full-sun site, but it needs afternoon shade in a hot climate. Feeding and Watering an Outdoor Plant
An outdoor gerbera daisy needs regular feeding to flower well, but it should be watered infrequently to avoid crown rot. Feed your gerbera daisy with a water-soluble, 24-8-16 fertilizer diluted at a rate of 1 tablespoon per 1 gallon of water, which feeds 10 square feet of plants. Apply the solution every two weeks while the gerbera daisy flowers, or dilute and apply the fertilizer according to the instructions on its label. In wet conditions, gerbera daisy suffers from crown rot, which affects its base. Help your plant avoid that disease by watering your gerbera daisy when its soil is dry to a depth of 1 inch. If you water and feed the plant at the same time, then apply the fertilizer first. Don't apply only fertilizer if the ground is dry. Feed and water the gerbera at the plant's base, and never from above, to help avoid leaf diseases. Deadheading and Dividing
Deadheading encourages a gerbera daisy plant to produce more flowers, and dividing an outdoor plant helps keep it healthy. Deadheading, which is removing flowers as they fade, improves the plant's appearance and encourages a long blooming period. Wipe pruning shear blades with rubbing alcohol, and use the tool to prune fading flowers at their stem bases. Sterilizing the pruning shears again is necessary after you finish pruning. If you grow your outdoor gerbera daisy as a perennial, lift and divide it in the spring of the plant's third year. Do so by pushing a garden fork into the soil about 4 inches from the plant's base, and gently lever the plant out of its soil. Pull the plant's base into three or four equal sections, and plant the sections 1 foot apart and about 1/2 inch higher than the original growing depth. Controlling Pests and Diseases
Aphids, mites, thrips and whiteflies attack gerbera daisy, and the plant also suffers from leaf spots, rots and viruses. Aphids are small insects that cluster at shoot tips and on the undersides of leaves. Mites look like tiny moving dots, and thrips are tiny, very slim insects. Whiteflies are small, white, flying insects. Favorable growing conditions and good-quality care are the gerbera daisy's best defenses against pests and diseases, and you also can control minor problems by pinching off affected shoots. On a cloudy day, spray an outdoor gerbera daisy heavily infested with pests with a ready-to-use insecticidal soap containing 1 percent potassium salts of fatty acids. This spray also can be used on an indoor gerbera daisy. Spray the plant once each week as needed, covering all its foliage but avoiding its flowers. Dig up an outdoor gerbera daisy heavily infested with leaf spots, rots or viruses, and put it in the trash. Tending an Indoor Plant
Gerbera daisy can grow well as an indoor plant for two to three years. Grow your gerbera daisy in a peat moss-based potting compost in a container with bottom drainage holes and a drip tray. Place the container in a bright spot that receives no more than one to two hours of direct sunlight each day, and water the plant when its potting compost is dry to a depth of 1 1/2 inches. Allow that material to drain thoroughly before returning the container to its drip tray. Keep the plant's location at 40 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit while the plant is in flower, and feed the gerbera daisy every two weeks with a liquid 24-8-16 fertilizer diluted at a rate of 1/2 teaspoon per 1 gallon of water. You can replace water with the fertilizer solution if the plant needs watering. Pour the solution slowly onto the potting compost surface until it runs out of the plant container's drainage holes, and allow the plant to drain thoroughly before putting the container back on its drip tray.
1
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月07日
Miss Chen
Hosta plants (also known as plantain lilies) are herbaceous perennials that die down in the winter months and reemerge in the spring with new growth. There are a wide variety to choose from. Hostas are shade-loving plants that grow from bulbs (or tubers). Planting them is fairly easy.
Step 1 Purchase hosta bulbs from your local nursery or from online sources (see Resources below). Read all the packaging instructions before deciding where to put your hostas. Some varieties do require some sunshine during the day. Hosta plants with a blue hue generally require more shade than some of the other types. They can be planted at any time of year, but springtime is best, when new roots are being formed. Step 2 Prepare the planting area soil. Although the hosta is an easy plant to grow and maintain, starting with the proper soil conditions will give your plant an extra boost. The soil should be well drained, with a pH of 5.5 to 6.5. Step 3 Plant the hosta bulbs 12 inches or more apart and at the ground level where the shoots first emerge. Of course, the root end of the bulb should be placed down into the ground. Gently fill the area surrounding the bulb with soil and then pack lightly at ground level.
Step 4 Water your hosta bulbs often, approximately an inch of water per week. Always check with packaging directions, as some of larger-leafed varieties require more water. Fertilize at 6-week intervals through the spring and summer months with a 10-10-10 fertilizer.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月07日
Miss Chen
If you grow perennials that include either the purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea or Rudbeckia purpurea) or the yellow coneflower (Ratibida pinnata), then you'd probably like to keep the plants blooming as long as possible and also keep them looking neat and tidy. These two plants respond well to pruning early in the growing season to promote bushiness and extend flowering, and they can be trimmed later in the growing season and when fall arrives. Both coneflowers are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 9.
Trimming for Bushy Plants A coneflower plant is usually 2 to 5 feet tall and tends to have a narrow growth habit of 1 1/2 to 2 feet wide. It starts putting out new stems in spring, when weather warms, and doesn't bloom for many weeks, usually opening flowers from midsummer through early fall. Promote a more bushy, compact growth habit in coneflower plants by trimming back each stem by one-half in late spring; doing so prompts branching of the stems and growth of new stems from each plant's base. Trimming this way early also allows the plants enough time to set flower buds, although their blooms may begin to appear a bit later than normal, usually in September. You also can extend your coneflower bed's blooming period by cutting back some but not all of your plants in spring, leaving the others not pruned. The latter should bloom at the normal time, starting in midsummer, while the pruned group's flowering will be delayed until early fall. When trimming, use sharp shears, and clean its blades by wiping them with rubbing alcohol before you begin trimming and after each cut. This sterilization helps prevent the spread of plant diseases. Deadheading for Tidiness When flowers fade on a coneflower plant, removing the spent blooms -- called deadheading -- helps improve the plant's appearance. Use your fingertips to pinch off flower stems just ahead of the point where a leaf originates on the stem behind the flower, or cut at that point with sterilized shears. The plant may produce new buds after it has been deadheaded, although the second bloom period is usually reduced. If you want your coneflower planting to expand, allow some self-seeding by leaving a few flowers on the plants to form seeds, which eventually will drop to the ground and produce new plants the next growing season.
Cleaning Up in Fall Like all herbaceous perennials, coneflowers eventually die back to the ground when winter arrives, leaving dry stems and foliage. You can leave the plants in place during winter, but cutting back their dry upper parts with sterilized tools helps improve the appearance of the flowerbed while getting rid of any remaining insects and their eggs. Remove and dispose of all cuttings when you do fall cleanup. If winter temperatures drop below freezing where you live, then wait until the first frost to cut back the plants to prevent new growth that is easily damaged by cold.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月07日
Miss Chen
Coneflowers (Echinacea spp.) are colorful perennials that attract birds and butterflies to your yard or garden. Coneflowers grow in shades of pink, purple, orange, yellow and white. These daisy-like flowers have a puffy central head that protrudes upward as the petals fold back. Coneflowers are native throughout eastern and central North America, growing in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 9. Caring for hybrid coneflowers with regular deadheading, shearing once each season and dividing as needed will reward you with blooms for years to come.
When to Fertilize Fertilize coneflowers in the spring as new growth appears with a fertilizer low in nitrogen like a 5-10-5 blend. Spread a small handful evenly around the plant, being sure that the product doesn't touch the plant. Apply two more applications at six week intervals and always water the fertilizer into the ground after applying. Coneflowers do not require heavy feeding; a spring mulch of rich compost helps smother weeds and provides a slow release of nutrients into the soil. While native varieties are not particular about soil type, coneflowers respond to loamy or sandy soil that drains well. Watering Water coneflowers regularly during the first growing season to help establish healthy root systems. Mature coneflowers are drought resistant, preferring an open area in full sun, but consistent watering can improve blooming throughout a hot, dry summer. Few Pest Problems Check the plants regularly for signs of insect damage. Although coneflowers are pest-resistant, leaf miners and Japanese beetles sometimes attack the leaves and flowers, and vine weevils may attack the roots. Dust the plants with diatomaceous earth or spray with a ready-to-use insecticidal soap to control insects. Powdery mildew, bacterial leaf spots and gray mold may be problems, especially in humid areas. Treat with a ready-to-use copper-based fungicide following the manufacturer's directions. Cover the entire foliage with the fungicide. Overhead watering can be a cause of disease spread; drip-irrigation or a soaker hose helps control soil-borne and airborne diseases by reducing splashing. Remove diseased parts of the plant when you deadhead and dispose of them by burning or in a trash collection container. Keep diseased plant material out of the compost pile and away from healthy plants. Care in the Growing Season Deadhead the coneflowers during the spring and early summer to encourage new growth in middle to late summer. Cut off spent blooms with garden shears as the petals begin to brown, wiping the blades with alcohol wipes between cuts to prevent the spread of disease. Cut out any dead or browning leaves to encourage fresh greenery later in the season. Leave the last spent coneflowers to dry on the plants in the fall -- the seed heads provide food for migrating and over-wintering birds and will reseed into the garden.
Shear coneflowers back to about one-third of their growth during the early summer to encourage bushy growth later in the season. Shearing a plant means to cut and remove most of the greenery and all of the spent blooms and stems. If you're deadheading and pruning a large number of plants, mix nine parts water with one part household liquid bleach in a bucket, and dip the pruners in the solution between cuts to disinfect the blades. Divide and Transplant Divide mature coneflower clumps in the spring before growth begins, or in early fall after blooming is finished. Lift the plant from the ground completely with a shovel or spading fork, being careful not to damage the roots. Set the plant on the ground with the crown facing up. Place the tip of a sharp shovel at the top of the soil and between the center leaves of the coneflower plant. Push down with the shovel to cut the plant in half. Replant one half back into the hole where it was removed, and transplant the other half in a new location. Water both new coneflower plants after dividing and transplanting. Alternatively, you may cut a large clump into several sections with a sharp shovel or a knife and transplant the sections. Sterilize the blade after each cut. Plant coneflowers as a border along a walkway or as part of a perennial cutting garden and watch the birds enjoy the seed heads.
0
0
文章
91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99 100 101 102 103 104 105 106
相关用户
筒叶花月
筒叶花月
来自： 斑目
玉露
玉露
来自： 安静的种花人
玉露
玉露
来自： 石头剪子布
天津
玉露
玉露
来自： 绿野鱼悅
温州市
筒叶花月
筒叶花月
来自： Heidi Liu
玉露
玉露
来自： 一万吨少女心
筒叶花月
筒叶花月
来自： KiddaHoo
郑州
保利安娜
保利安娜
来自： 辣木姐--璐颖
玉露
玉露
来自： 倾心
福州
玉露
玉露
来自： 小欢喜
广州
举报 反馈

您有什么意见或建议，欢迎给我们留言。

请输入内容
提交
取消
设置
VIP
退出登录
关闭
分享

分享好文，绿手指（GFinger）养花助手见证你的成长。

关闭
请前往电脑端操作

请前往电脑端操作

关闭
转发
插入话题
提醒好友
发布
/
提交成功 提交失败 最大图片质量 成功 警告 啊哦！ 出了点小问题 转发成功 举报 转发 显示更多 _zh 文章 求助 动态 刚刚 回复 邀你一起尬聊！ 表情 添加图片 评论 仅支持 .JPG .JPEG .PNG .GIF 图片尺寸不得小于300*300px 最少上传一张图片 请输入内容