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Miss Chen
2018年08月21日
Miss Chen
The presence of a wide variety of insects in gardens is a normal and expected aspect of gardening. There are a wide range of control options to control pests such as ticks, fleas and mosquitoes. This includes the more environmentally friendly options such as using plants and herbs with natural insect repellent properties. Using herbs in gardens is not only a better alternative for harmful chemicals but also provides fresh culinary herbs for use in the kitchen. Insecticides made with the extracts of these herbs kill a number of pests.
Rue Rue (Ruta graveolens) is an evergreen herb with metallic blue, feathery foliage. The herb has disinfectant and insecticidal properties for getting rid of flies, mosquitoes and a number of other insects naturally. Rubbing the herbs over pets keeps away the fleas. Planting rue with other plants keeps beetles and slugs from the garden. The semi-woody plant grows to a full height of about 2 1/2 feet. Rue foliage has a medicinal and bitter smell upon crushing or cutting. The herb blooms with small, four petaled flowers during summer. Rue is easy to grow from seed and thrives in a range of soil types including poor soil. You also can grow the herb as an indoor plant. Wormwood Wormwood (Artemesia absinthium) is among the bitter herbs used for centuries to repel and deter insects including ticks, flies and moths. Wormwood grows to a mature height of about 3 feet and has gray-green foliage. The plant is covered with fine hair and blooms with yellow flowers during summer. Wormwood is widely used in traditional medicine both by itself or in combination with other herbs to relieve digestive and gallbladder disorders. Wormwood, also referred to as artemesia, grows naturally in the temperate and mild climates. The foliage of wormwood is used for making an herbal tea.
Mint Mint (Mentha) is among the most recognized and most used herbs in the kitchen, which also keep away a wide range of insects with its strong scent. Mint is especially effective for deterring beetles and fleas. Keeping sachets of dried mint in closets keeps out moths and placing fresh mint in pantries helps deter ants. Rubbing the herbs over the neck, face and hands repels mosquitoes, and rubbing the herb over pets and mouths of horses and cows keeps them free from flies. Planting mint with cabbage and tomatoes gets rid of aphids, cabbage white butterflies and white flies.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月21日
Miss Chen
Few perennials can top the daylily (Hemerocallis spp.) for colorful flowers that keep coming for several weeks during spring and summer. Available in thousands of cultivars with different features, the daylily gets its name from its characteristic of keeping each flower open for only one day. Although daylilies are usually simple to grow, it can be discouraging to see their leaves begin turning yellow, a situation that can result from a number of problems. A Natural Change
Yellowing in daylilies at the end of their growing season is part of their annual cycle. Most daylilies grow as frost-hardy perennials in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 2 through 10, with some variation among cultivars. They usually bloom from spring into summer, with the exact timing differing among the many varieties. When fall arrives and temperatures cool, daylily plants stop growing and their leaves start to turn yellow as photosynthesis -- the plants' manufacture of food -- stops. By late fall, the yellow leaves turn brown then gradually dry, collapsing around the plants' bases. In warm-winter areas, daylilies' leaves may undergo this change a bit later, in early winter, but eventually the plants become dormant in those regions, with new growth appearing the following spring. Improper Water Amount
Daylilies are simple to care for once established, but young plants need regular moisture to put out good root systems that sustain growth. If newly planted daylilies develop yellow leaves that start turning brown, then the problem could be too little water. During the growing season, generally spring through early fall, daylilies' soil should not be allowed to dry out completely. For the best results, ensure the plants get about 1 inch of water weekly, including rain. Too much water -- either from constant rain or overwatering -- can promote root rot. Roots become brown and slimy instead of being white and firm, and they're unable to take up soil nutrients, causing wilting and yellowing of leaves. Water daylilies only when their top 1 inch of soil feels dry to your fingertip, and don't plant them in a low spot that tends to stay wet for long periods. Disease Problems
Daylilies are susceptible to two potentially serious diseases, which are called leaf streak and daylily rust and are caused by fungal organisms. As its name suggests, leaf streak results in long, yellow streaks on leaves, starting at leaf tips and with leaves eventually turning brown and dying. Daylily rust causes similar changes, along with orange spots on leaf undersides. Those problems can be prevented by only purchasing cultivars labeled as resistant to those diseases. Also, use a soaker hose or drip irrigation when watering daylilies to keep their foliage dry, space the plants at least 2 to 3 feet apart so their foliage doesn't touch and so their air circulation is good, and clear away plant debris often. You can also spray infected plants with a fungicide containing a chemical called myclobutanil, diluted at a rate of 1/2 fluid ounce per 1 gallon of water; use it every two weeks three or four times for leaf-streak infected plants, and use it every two weeks as needed for daylily rust-infected plants, but check your fungicide product's label for its specific directions. Prepare and spray the mixture only on a windless day, and wear goggles, a hat, a dust mask, and gloves and other clothing to cover your skin. Pest Infestations
Although daylilies are generally resistant to most pests, occasionally an infestation of a sucking insect may cause the plants' leaves to yellow. For example, thrips, which are 1/8th-inch-long, winged pests, can cause silver-to-yellow speckles on leaves. Aphids or mites also infest the plants, causing leaves to yellow and become deformed. Aphids are tiny, greenish insects while mites are not visible to the naked eye but produce weblike coverings that can be seen without a microscope on leaves. If you want to control thrips, aphids and mites, spray affected plants with insecticidal soap diluted at a rate of 5 tablespoons per 1 gallon of water. Repeat the application every two weeks as needed. Prepare and spray the solution on only a windless day when the temperature is below 90 degrees Fahrenheit, and wear protective clothing.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月21日
Miss Chen
Hibiscus (Hibiscus spp.) plants produce large, often colorful, flowers during the summer. The hardy hibiscus varieties, such as rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 9. Tropical varieties, like Chinese hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), grow in USDA zones 9 through 11. Both hardy and tropical hibiscuses can suffer from yellow leaves and overall decline. The symptoms, causes and treatments are similar for both types of hibiscus.
Winter Leaf Drop Tropical hibiscus varieties grown outdoors in summer but overwintered inside tend to suffer leaf yellowing, drop and dieback in the days following the move. It's difficult to supply a tropical hibiscus with enough light indoors, which causes further yellowing beyond the initial shock of relocation. Remove the leaves as they yellow if you want to try and keep the plant active during the winter. North Dakota State University Extension suggests placing the plant under bright artificial lighting for 13 hours each day, when brought inside during the winter months. You can also allow the plant to go dormant during winter. Place the plant in a dark area at around 40 to 50 degrees Fahrenheit and allow all the leaves to yellow and fall off before cutting the plant back to 6 inches tall. In spring, resume watering and place the plant in a sunny spot to encourage a fresh flush of healthy, green growth. Cultural Concerns Wet, poorly drained soil can cause root rots and general leaf yellowing. Grow potted hibiscus in containers with bottom drainage holes so the soil doesn't stay soggy. Plant garden hibiscus in well-draining soil and avoid overwatering and waterlogged soil. Nutrient deficiencies can also cause yellowing foliage, especially a lack of nitrogen in the soil. Water potted hibiscus with a soluble, all-purpose fertilizer every two weeks, such as a 1/2 teaspoon of 24-8-16 all-purpose blend mixed with 1 quart of water. For garden plants, sprinkling 1 tablespoon of a 12-4-8 or similar blend over every 1 square foot of garden at eight-week intervals provides enough nutrients. Fertilize hibiscus plants only when they are actively growing in spring and summer.
Blights Both tropical and hardy hibiscus varieties can develop yellow leaves from a botrytis blight infection. This fungal disease may also cause spotting and discoloration on flowers or show as gray masses of mold on leaf, bud and stem surfaces. Overly wet soil and poor air circulation are the main causes. Remove affected leaves, stems and flowers with shears, wiping the shears with an isopropyl alcohol-soaked rag after each cut to destroy any fungal spores. Avoid overhead watering and keep the soil moist but not soggy. Leaf Spot Diseases Yellow spots on leaf surfaces may indicate a fungal leaf spot diseases. The shape and size of the spots varies, but most leaf spot diseases aren't fatal and they rarely cause long-term damage. Hibiscus plants don't require fungicide treatments for leaf spots. Instead, remove badly affected leaves and clean up fallen leaves and plant debris from around the base of the plant. Watering early in the day and keeping the foliage dry further prevents leaf spot problems.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月20日
Miss Chen
Bird of paradise is the common name for two genera: Strelitzia and Caesaplinia. Both are tropical, drought-tolerant plants with bright, hot-colored blooms. They all work well as borders or specimen plantings. Genera
Typical orange bird of paradise (Strelitzia reginae) bloom Strelitzia are clumping or tree-forming evergreen perennials with long leaves resembling banana tree leaves. The blossoms resemble tropical birds in flight. Caesalpinia (also dwarf poinciana) are evergreen or deciduous desert-adapted trees or shrubs with small, oval leaves and brightly-colored clusters of flowers. Species
Strelitzia alba, the white bird of paradise The orange bird of paradise (Strelitzia reginae) is orange-blooming with clumping leaves that shoot 3 to 5 feet from the crown. White (Strelitzia alba) and giant (Strelitzia nicholai) bird of paradise bloom white. The white forms a tree 18 feet tall and the giant 30 feet tall. The red bird of paradise (Caesalpinia pulcherrima) and yellow (Caesalpinia gilliesii) have the same size and shape, but the yellow-blossoming species is hardier. Mexican bird of paradise (Caesalpinia mexicana) blooms sulfur yellow with a strong fragrance. Cultivars
Strelitzia reginae var. Mandelas’s Gold, with yellow blooms instead of orange The Juncea bird of paradise (Strelitzia reginae var. juncea) is similar to the orange species, but the blooms are smaller. Mandelas's Gold produces yellow blossoms instead of the typical orange. Dwarf bird of paradise such as humilis and pygmaea only grow 18 to 20 inches tall. Caesalpinia pulcherrima phoenix is a red bird of paradise but blooms gold.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月20日
Miss Chen
Autumn fern (Dryopteris erythrosora) earns its common name from the color -- not the timing -- of its emerging fronds. As new fiddleheads unfurl in spring, the leaves display shades of copper and bronze with hints of salmon, rose and purple before maturing to glossy green in summer. Sporadic flushes of new growth through the growing season keep autumnal colors going. In cool climates, the leaves take on a slight russet-brown, but nothing that compares to spring. Low-maintenance and easy-care, autumn fern is a shade gardener's friend.
Site and Soil Autumn fern is a woodland plant native to full and partial shade, protected from intense afternoon sun. Maturing at 18 inches tall and 24 inches wide, it will flourish beneath trees with high, open shade and well-drained, loamy, humus-rich soil. All soil types, from sand to clay, suit adaptable autumn fern, but it will prefer a pH slightly below 7.0. Think of moisture-retentive woodland soil, rich with leaf mold and other organic matter, as a guide for your garden. If your garden lacks organic matter, work a 4-inch layer of compost or fine pine bark into the soil's upper 4 to 6 inches before planting autumn fern. Water and Nutrients Autumn fern prefers consistently moist soil, but doesn't tolerate waterlogged conditions. Once established, the slow-growing plant withstands periods of relative dryness better than many ferns, but it turns pale and wilts when water-stressed. Supplement natural rainfall, as needed, to keep the soil moist. The more sun the plant gets, the more water it needs. Planted in rich, loamy soil, autumn fern doesn't require fertilizer. Like other woodland ferns, it's sensitive and easily burned by chemical fertilizers. Natural decomposition from leaves and a 1- to 2-inch layer of compost spread once a year are all it needs.
Pruning, Pests and Disease In frost-free climates, autumn fern is evergreen. In cool-climate gardens, it dies back slowly with semi-evergreen growth at the crown. Leave the fronds intact over winter, then remove the dead or winter-worn foliage in spring. This is easily done by hand, which protects emerging fiddleheads and surface roots from accidental pruning injuries. When clipping, use shears that have been wiped with a cloth soaked in rubbing alcohol. This helps prevent the spread of disease. Autumn fern has no significant problems with insect pests or disease. The fern is sensitive to pesticides, so good sanitation and proper care are key. Slugs and snails often gather in shade gardens. A inverted rind of melon (Cucumis melo) makes an effective, overnight slug trap. Dispose of the melon rind and its sluggish inhabitants in the morning. Hardiness and Heaving Autumn fern grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 8. It's intolerant of hot, arid conditions in warmer Southwestern climates, but it tolerates heat and humidity in the Southeast. Named a Florida Garden Select plant by the Florida Nursery, Growers and Landscape Association, autumn fern thrives in Florida's USDA zones 8 through 11. In all climates, a mature autumn fern tends to lift slightly out of the soil from year to year. When this happens, gently pull back the soil and reposition the crown back at soil level. The annual layer of 1 to 2 inches of compost also helps prevent autumn fern from heaving.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月20日
Miss Chen
The giant white bird of paradise plant (Strelitzia nicolai) is a cousin to the more commonly seen orange and blue bird of paradise. The 10- to 12-inch white flower has a blue "tongue" and sits inside a purple bract.
Growth Rate According to the University of Florida, the giant white bird of paradise is a moderate grower. It eventually reaches a height of 20 to 30 feet and a width of 6 to 10 feet, although smaller specimens are commonly seen. The plants will not flower until they are several years old. Hardiness Hardy in USDA plant zones 9b through 11, the giant white bird of paradise is slightly hardier than its orange cousin. It can also handle drought and salt, making it a good accent plant near pools or the ocean.
Growing Strelitzia Nicolai Full sun and warm temperatures work best for giant white bird of paradise. If grown as container plants, they need to be brought inside when outdoor temperatures drop to 60 degrees Fahrenheit. They should be allowed to dry out between waterings. Plants need to be fertilized every two weeks in spring and weekly in summer for best flowering.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月20日
Miss Chen
Everybody knows that banana plants produce the bananas you slice up on your breakfast cereal, but there are other, less familiar uses for banana plants. These shrubs produce large, deep-green leaves on tall stalks, giving them the appearance of large trees. You can use banana plants to grow bananas but also to add a tropical touch indoors or outside.
Edible Gardening Banana varieties that have edible fruits are members of the species Musa acuminata, which is hardy in USDA zones 10 through 11, and Musa balbisiana, hardy in USDA zones 9b through 11. They grow shoots best when temperatures remain 78 to 82 degrees F and fruit best at 84 to 86 F, but they can suffer chill damage at temperatures below 60 degrees F. Grow edible bananas in full-sun locations where the soil is rich in organic matter and is well-drained but still moist. Standard-size edible banana plants can grow more than 30 feet tall, and they require 12-foot spacing between themselves and other large plants. Dwarf cultivars can tolerate an eight-foot distance from other dwarf varieties or 20 feet from large plants. Banana plants suffer few pest or disease problems, and they take 10 to 24 months to produce ripe fruits. Tropical Screen Dwarf Musa acuminata and Musa balbisiana banana plants work well to create a tropical screen or living fence in regions where they are hardy. In colder climates, the hardy or Japanese banana (Musa basjoo), can serve the same purpose during the spring and summer months. Each of these three kinds of bananas produces dense foliage and large leaves. The hardy banana plant requires the same care as the other banana plants, except that it dies to the ground when the temperature drops to 32 degrees F. If you cut a hardy banana plant down to two to three feet above the ground after it dies back naturally, it will regrow in spring. The plant can grow 12 feet in a single season.
Garden Centerpiece A single banana tree can become a large centerpiece in a garden, serving as a visual focal point. Edible banana plants provide year-round interest while the hardy banana is useful only as a showpiece in summer, except in USDA zones 9 through 10, where it remains evergreen. Planting a banana plant in a raised mound draws the eye to the plant while providing better drainage for its roots. When planting a banana plant as a centerpiece, place it in a location protected from high winds but far enough from neighboring plants and buildings so that its foliage can reach its full spread to showcase the plant's natural, lush form. Indoor Foliage Hardy bananas grow well as potted plants and remain green all year in USDA zones 5 through 8 when taken indoors to protect them from cold weather. Dwarf edible banana plant varieties, such as "Cavendish" (Musa acuminata "Dwarf Cavendish"), hardy in USDA zones 9 through 11, also can survive as winter houseplants. Besides winter greenery, a potted banana plant gives a home a tropical touch. The pot for any kind of banana plant must have bottom drainage holes so excess moisture can drain. Setting each banana plant's pot on a wheeled cart makes the large, heavy plant easier to move. Take the plants indoors before the first frost, and provide them with full, all-day sunlight. They grow especially well in an indoor sun-room. Banana plants become semi-dormant in winter. Water their soil enough so it doesn't dry out completely, but avoid overwatering, which can lead to rot. Both hardy and edible potted banana plants grow best when they spend summer outdoors in a sunny spot.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月20日
Miss Chen
Ferns are one of the oldest forms of plant life. There are over 10,000 known species of fern, some of which are deciduous and some that are evergreen. Fern leaves are called fronds, and they house the reproductive spores that ferns produce instead of seeds. Deciduous ferns lose their leaves in winter and tend to look ratty over the season when some of them die back but don't fall off. Evergreen ferns are vibrant year-round but they can benefit from cleanups to remove damage and dead fronds. Timing is important when pruning ferns so new fiddleheads (immature ferns) are not disturbed and spores are able to disperse.
Timing is Everything Pruning of ferns needs to occur after the spores on fruiting fronds have matured and released. Trim them when they are dormant, which is during winter. They can also be pruned in very early spring. Many ferns do not object to pruning at any time of the year. The hardy ferns such as sword fern can be pruned once a year if necessary, just about any time, since they are continuously growing. Evergreen Ferns As a rule, ferns don't really need pruning. Ferns in nature are generally self-cleaning and will release old fronds as they die. In the garden, occasional removal of dead fronds will improve the appearance of the plant, but it is strictly cosmetic. Where the plants are large and very old, severe pruning can take place to the crown. All the fronds can be removed in late winter or before the first new fiddleheads appear. Prune the stems away from the crown in a circular pattern so you are left with a little dome. This is not only attractive, but it prevents accidental damage to the newest growth which appears at the center of the plant. Deciduous Ferns Deciduous ferns don't necessarily drop all their fronds when temperatures plummet. They do experience dieback and many of the fronds will fall off or turn brown. From a cosmetic standpoint, it is best to get these dead fronds out of the plant. You will also increase light and room for new leaflets. Many people prune the deciduous ferns in fall so they are ready for the spring, but the old fronds provide protection for the crown. It is best to leave them, unattractive though they may be, until spring.
Pruning Indoor Ferns Boston, staghorn and maidenhair are some of the common ferns used as houseplants. These plants do not need pruning but they do need cleaning. The difference is that pruning increases the health of a plant and is done for many reasons, while cleaning is just routine maintenance. As with outdoor ferns you may choose to remove dead fronds. These should be cut with very sharp scissors or pruning shears and taken back 1/4 to 1/2 inch above the crown. The only time you would ever need to prune out all the fronds is when you are faced with a monumental pest problem. In this case, fertilize one week before the big haircut and then remove all the fronds.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月19日
Miss Chen
Lawn-grass professionals divide the United States into four main zones of grass adaptation based on climatic conditions. The Northeast region of the country falls into what's known as the cool, humid zone. Lawn grasses that do best in the Northeast are hardy, cool-season grasses that tolerate humidity in addition to cold.
Because most lawns have areas that vary in moisture as well as sun and shade exposure, a mixture of cool-season grasses normally delivers the best overall lawn. Using a mixture allows different, complementary grass types to dominate in various areas and conditions that fit them best. The major perennial lawn grasses that flourish in cool, humid Northeast conditions are: Kentucky bluegrass (Poa pratensis), which is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 2 through 6. Although slow to establish from seed, Kentucky bluegrass spreads vigorously via underground stems known as rhizomes once it gets settled into sunny lawns. That spreading behavior also helps it repair itself when damaged by foot traffic or other injuries. Known for its green color and fine texture, Kentucky bluegrass flourishes in cool temperatures with the consistent soil moisture common in Northeast lawns. Perennial ryegrass (Lolium perenne, USDA zones 3 through 6), which establishes quickly and greens up fast in spring, making it a welcome complement to Kentucky bluegrass. Some perennial ryegrass varieties have improved longevity over older, traditional varieties and offer a finer texture that mixes well with other cool-season grasses. This versatile lawn grass tolerates sun exposure, some shade and adapts well to changing Northeast conditions, but it does not tolerate overly wet soil. Tall fescue (Festuca arundinacea, USDA zones 4 through 7), once considered only forage pasture grass but recognized by turf breeders for its potential as a resilient lawn grass. Fairly new varieties known as turf-type fescues retain tall fescue's clumping growth habit and its ability to thrive in poor, droughty soil. Deep-rooted, turf-type tall fescues stand up well to foot traffic and bring Northeast lawns improved texture, color and drought tolerance. Fine fescues (Festuca spp.), such as creeping red fescue (Festuca rubra var. rubra, USDA zones 3 through 7). They excel in well-drained shade and dry areas that challenge other Northeast lawn grasses. Although these low-maintenance lawn grasses establish faster than Kentucky bluegrass, they don't tolerate the wear and tear that tall fescues can. So they work best when confined to low foot-traffic areas.
Bentgrass (Agrostis spp., USDA zones 4 through 6), historically the grass favored on golf-course greens. Newer varieties have increased the use of bentgrass by homeowners looking for dense, cushiony, golf-greenlike turf -- or a backyard putting green. Spread by above-ground stems, known as stolons, bentgrass offers a low-growth habit, fine texture and rich-green color. Bentgrass thrives in the Northeast's cool, humid climate and fertile soil.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月19日
Miss Chen
Lemongrass (Cymbopogon spp.) is the common name for several species of grasses in the genus Cymbopogon. These grasses are native to tropical parts of Asia, Africa and Australia, and they are generally frost-tender and do not survive winters in cold climates.
Annuals vs. Perennials The term annual refers to those plants that complete their entire life cycles within a single growing season. Generally, annuals grow from a seed, produce their own flowers and seeds, and die in a single season, and new plants grow the following year from the seeds produced by the parent plant. Perennial plants, in contrast, survive through multiple growing seasons; although their reproductive cycles might be completed in one growing season, the parent plants will continue to grow and reproduce in subsequent seasons. The year-after-year survival of perennial plants, however, is usually limited by their relative tolerance or intolerance of cold temperatures, and in climates where winters are colder than a given species will tolerate, the plant will usually die at the end of the growing season when the weather turns cold. When they're grown in climates where they're not winter-hardy, some perennials plants are treated as annuals by gardeners, who replant new plants each spring. Sometimes when a perennial is grown in climates that fall just outside the climate in which the plant is fully winter-hardy, cold temperatures will cause the foliage and above-ground structure of the plant to die back, but the plant's root system will survive. In this case, the plant may survive the winter and begin to grow new foliage in the spring. Lemongrass The Cymbopogon species most commonly grown as the garden ornamental called lemongrass (Cymbopogon citratus) is a perennial, but it is sensitive to frost and below-freezing temperatures, and in the United States, it is fully winter hardy only in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 to 11. In these zones, the grass, which typically grows to a height of between 2 and 4 feet, will remain green throughout the winter. In moderately cooler zones, lemongrass may survive the winter and return in the spring even though the plant's leaves die back. Lemongrass roots are typically hardy in USDA zones 8b and 9, and in these zones, the plant may return year after year.
In zones colder than USDA zone 8b, lemongrass will likely not survive the winter and must be grown in the garden as an annual. Alternatively, the plant may be grown in a container and taken indoors when temperatures begin to fall and over-wintered in a sunny room.
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