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Miss Chen
2018年08月28日
Miss Chen
There are many varieties of phlox available to gardeners, from dwarf varieties that are stunning in borders and beds to tall varieties that grow to 3 feet or more and are used in background plantings. A perennial, phlox produces spikes of brightly colored flowers that rise from the green foliage. Phlox can bloom for six weeks or longer when properly cared for. Deadheading removes the spent blossoms and prevents the phlox from setting seed, which helps prolong flowering while also keeping the plants attractive.
Step 1 Cut off spent flower clusters as soon as the flowers begin to wither with a pair of small shears. Cut 1/4 inch above the bud that is forming immediately beneath the spent flower cluster. Step 2 Cut off the entire flower spike once all the buds have bloomed and there are no new buds forming along the stem. Cut the spike off where it emerges from the plant.
Step 3 Dispose of or compost the removed flower clusters and spikes after deadheading. Phlox is prone to powdery mildew, and the fungal spores can survive in the dead plant matter, where they can then infect the entire plant.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月28日
Miss Chen
Both ornamental and edible ginger plants add attractive foliage to the garden. Edible ginger is grown for its ornamental features, as well as for its edible roots, or rhizomes, while ornamental ginger is prized for its colorful floral bracts. Ginger is grown from rhizomes, or enlarged roots, regardless of the variety. Whether you are dividing the roots of a crowded plant colony, planting a new plant or moving an existing plant to a new area, proper transplanting is necessary so that the ginger continues to thrive in the garden.
Step 1 Loosen the soil around the ginger plant with a spading fork if you are transplanting it to a new bed or dividing it. Lift the ginger rhizomes out of the soil, leaving any foliage in place. If you are dividing the plant, cut 1- to 2-inch-long pieces of the rhizomes from the outside of the root system, cutting the pieces so that they have at least one bud on them. Leave the rest of the plant in the ground. Step 2 Prepare a partially to fully shaded garden bed for the ginger. Apply a 2-inch layer of compost over the planting area and work it into the top 6 inches of soil. Step 3 Plant the ginger rhizomes at a 1-inch depth. Space additional plants 15 inches apart in all directions. Sow the rhizome so that the bud or foliage is on the top.
Step 4 Water the bed thoroughly after transplanting, moistening it to a 6-inch depth. Spread a 1- to 2-inch mulch layer over the bed to help preserve soil moisture between waterings.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月27日
Miss Chen
Poinsettias produce deep red blooms in winter, adding color to holiday tables. A tropical perennial plant, poinsettias can survive and bloom for many years with proper care. Poinsettias do not require high levels of light, one of the reasons they are favored as a potted plant. The flowers of the poinsettia are actually modified leaf structures called bracts. Once these have wilted and begun to die off, the poinsettia requires a thorough pruning. Poinsettias may also require some trimming throughout the growing season in order to remain full and healthy.
Step 1 Trim off the leaves on each poinsettia stem once the plant finishes blooming in March, leaving just three to four leaves on each stem. Cut the stems back to half their former height with shears. Step 2 Trim off the top of each stem when they are 4 to 6 inches long in summer. Cut off the top 1/2 inch of each tip, as this helps the poinsettia grow full and bushy. Step 3 Trim off the growing tips on each stem a second time in August if the stems have put on at least an additional 5 inches of growth since the last pruning.
Step 4 Cut out any damaged or dead leaves throughout the growing period. Remove these where they emerge from the stems.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月27日
Miss Chen
Fill patio planters and pots with hydrangeas (Hydrangea spp.) in spring for a summer full of flowers. Hydrangeas grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 9 depending on the species, and they range in size from 3 to 9 feet tall. Two varieties that grow well in containers are big leaf hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla), hardy in USDA zones 5 through 9, and mountain hydrangea (Hydrangea serrata), hardy in USDA zones 6 through 9. While spring is the best time to plant, you can pot up hydrangeas anytime through summer.
The Right Planter When selecting a planter for hydrangeas, consider both aesthetics and functionality. You can choose the material of the planter based on aesthetics, such as wood, colored plastic, terracotta or glazed ceramic, but it must have drainage holes. Terracotta and wood dry out more rapidly, so if watering is an issue in your area, consider plastic or glazed ceramic. Some new pots come with a plug in the bottom covering the drainage hole. Make sure to pop it out before planting hydrangeas. Look for a planter or pot 2 to 4 inches bigger in diameter than the nursery pot or planter the hydrangea is in. Disinfecting Pots and Planters Clean and disinfect both new and old planters before planting. Dump out old dirt and give the pot a scrub with detergent and water to remove any soil particles. Fill a bucket or trough -- make sure its large enough to submerge the planter -- with a 9-to-1 water-to-bleach solution. Soak the old planters for 10 to 15 minutes. Remove the planter and wash it with soapy water, then rinse. Allow the pot to air-dry before potting up your new hydrangeas. Large planters are difficult to soak because it's not always easy to find something large enough for full submersion. An alternative method is to seal the drain holes temporarily -- try duct tape -- then fill the container up to the top with the bleach solution. Allow it to sit in the pot for 10 minutes, then drain, remove the tape, wash, rinse and allow to dry. Acidic Potting Blend Hydrangeas like acidic potting soil. Use peat moss to increase the acidity of regular potting soil. Use equal parts of each, and blend them thoroughly before planting. If the peat moss is dry, soak it in a bucket of water overnight, then drain out the excess water before mixing it with potting soil.
Scoop two to three handfuls of potting medium into the bottom of the container to form a base for the root ball. Potting Up Gently wiggle the hydrangea out of the nursery pot, handling it by the roots, and set it on top of the peat moss and potting soil blend. Add or take out material from the bottom of the pot until the top of the root ball is 3 inches below the edge of the pot. Fill in around the roots with additional damp peat moss, bringing the level up to the base of the stalks. Place potted hydrangeas in full morning sun with light afternoon shade. For an indoor plant, set it in a room with bright morning light but no direct afternoon sun. Water and Fertilizer Water potted hydrangeas immediately after planting, then each time the potting mix starts to dry out 1 inch deep. Soak the potting mix until a little extra leaks out the drainage hole in the bottom. That way you know the water penetrated through to the bottom. Fertilize right after planting, then every two weeks, with a complete water-soluble fertilizer. Dilute 3/4 tablespoon in 1 1/2 gallons of water and use it, along with additional water if necessary, to water the potting soil of outdoor plants. Repot in Spring Repot hydrangeas in early spring before new growth starts using a blend of equal parts peat moss and potting soil. Gently tease the root ball out of the container and brush of excess dirt to expose the outer roots. Check for rot or mushy spots and pull apart roots that circle the root ball. Repot in the same planter, or go up a pot size if the root ball is crowded in the old planter.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月27日
Miss Chen
A hanging basket provides a colorful show of blooms during summer. Use perennial plants for your hanging basket for lasting value, since they start to grow again in spring. Choose different varieties of plants for volume and interest. Use trailing plants to hang over the side of the basket and add foliage plants as a green background to bright colored flowers. Water a hanging basket daily, and dead-head the flowers regularly to ensure a continuous display. Dianthus
A profusion of summer flowers Normally known as carnations or pinks, the dianthus comes in over 300 varieties. A good border flower for cutting, several species are compact enough for planting in the center of a basket, providing a profusion of flowers during summer. Available in a range of bright colors, many of the blooms are scented. Fuchsia
Ballerina-like fuchsia flowers Available in a variety of species, a trailing fuchsia, such as the white and crimson "Cascade," makes an ideal, colorful plant to grow over the edge of a hanging basket. The different types of fuchsia produce pretty, ballerina-like flowers in shades of pink and white and they are easy to grow all summer. Geranium
The geranium is a hardy perennial. Normally used for ground cover in gardens, the ivy-leaved geranium is an excellent trailer that adds depth to a display. With evergreen leaves and delicate pink or lilac flowers, the geranium is a hardy perennial which blooms for most of the summer. Remove flowered stems and old leaves to encourage new growth. Ivy (Hedera)
Variegated ivy provides a green background. An evergreen, hardy plant, the ivy comes with a variety of leaf shapes and variegation. It is a perfect perennial for providing a background for more showy colors, as it trails gracefully from hanging baskets. Keep the leaves clipped to maintain its shape. Be careful to wear gloves as ivy sap may irritate the skin. Petunia
A perennial petunia flowers all season. The petunia plant is available in a variety of species, from the large-flowered grandiflora to the bushier multiflora. Ranging from pink and red, to violet and white, there is a perennial petunia to suit all color schemes. The "Surfina Series'" of grandiflora petunia has a trailing habit which is ideal for hanging baskets. They are available only as young plants and flower well all season. Viola
The viola brightens a hanging basket. The evergreen viola is a fast growing plant that provides masses of pretty flowers during summer in shades of purple, white or lavender. Dead-head to prolong flowering for as long as possible. With rich, velvet colors, the viola x wittrockiana, commonly known as the pansy, brightens up the center of hanging baskets.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月27日
Miss Chen
Hostas (Hosta spp.) are usually prized for their foliage, but yellow and brown leaves are not the most desirable of rewards. Growing in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 8, they thrive in rich, moist soil and can tolerate full shade. Healthy hostas glow in shades of blue, green, gold and cream. Unfortunately, that fabulous foliage will fade if hostas are cared for improperly or are damaged by pests or diseases.
The Root of the Problem Anything that damages the roots of hostas can cause yellow and brown leaves. The damaged roots are unable to absorb nutrients and water, and as a result, the plant suffers or even dies, depending on the extent of the damage. Although hostas prefer moist, cool soils, heavy and wet soil in spring and winter can lead to root rot -- a fungal disease that rots away the roots. Well-drained soil is a must for these plants, and pots containing hostas should have a hole in the bottom to allow for good drainage. Burrowing animals, such as voles, can also damage the roots of the plants. Voles prefer to create their tunnels under lawns, mulch and areas with loose soil, so try planting your hostas among tree roots or near other underground barriers that will naturally block tunneling animals. Let There Be Light Many home gardeners use hostas to brighten up shady corners of their gardens, but hostas are brighter when they receive some sunlight. They key here is knowing how much is too much. Some hostas are much more tolerant of direct sunlight than others. Too much hot, direct sunlight can scorch the leaves of some varieties, causing them to turn yellow and brown. Choose varieties that can withstand the sun, such as "Sun Power" hybrids. In general, home gardeners in USDA zones 6 and above should avoid planting hostas in direct sunlight, according to the Missouri Botanical Gardens website. Making sure your hostas get enough water during hot, dry periods can also help. Vexing Viruses Hostas can sometimes suffer from something called "Virus X," which causes the leaves to develop dark spots, rings, browning or twisting of the leaves. Unfortunately, there is no cure for this disease. In addition, these symptoms often mimic those of spontaneous mutations, or sports, which some home gardeners find desirable. In general, however, it's best to remove plants that suffer from these symptoms, especially if they appear all over the plant. If they appear in just one section of the plant or on only a few leaves, you can just remove those leaves.
Frustrating Fungi Fungi don't just affect the roots of hosta plants. They can also damage the stems and leaf petioles. In fact, petiole rot is a common and serious affliction of hostas. When this happens, the leaves are cut off from the main stem and are unable to receive nutrients. They turn yellow and brown, and pull away easily from the plant. Southern blight, which rots the stem, and anthracnose, which usually attacks the leaves themselves, are also fungal diseases that can cause hosta foliage to turn yellow and brown. Avoid these problems as best you can by watering at the ground level, rather than from overhead, and by watering early in the morning so that the sun can dry off the leaves. Overcrowded conditions can also contribute to fungal diseases, so make sure air can circulate around your hosta plants.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月27日
Miss Chen
Featuring clouds of tiny light blue flowers on spikes and finely dissected, fragrant, gray-green leaves, Russian sage (Perovskia atriplicifolia) works well for perennial borders, mixed borders, wildlife gardens and other landscape areas. This drought-tolerant, woody-based perennial is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 9, and grows 3 to 5 feet tall and 2 to 4 feet wide. Its two-lipped, tubular flowers appear in summer through fall.
Perennial and Mixed Borders Russian sage works well as a perennial border and in mixed borders that include perennials, bulbs, shrubs, evergreens and other plants When paired with evergreens, the plant's blue flowers create an interesting color contrast. When summer's blue flowers fade, Russian sage continues to stand tall in warm climates and add vertical interest to garden beds. Standing tall is sometimes a problem for Russian sage, however, as it tends to flop over when it gets tall. To prevent this, plant supportive plants around it and make sure the sage gets full sun. Plant Russian sage toward the back of the border, where it adds height and doesn't screen smaller plants. This low-maintenance perennial tolerates dry, rocky, chalky and alkaline soil, and its salt tolerance means it grows well in coastal gardens. Prune the plants to 6 inches above the soil surface in spring, as new growth provides the best flowering. Before and after pruning Russian sage, sterilize pruning shear blades by wiping them with a cloth dipped in rubbing alcohol. Wildlife Gardens Russian sage works beautifully in informal wildlife gardens, providing a hazy background of blooms that last all summer long and well into September. This fragrant plant attracts butterflies and hummingbirds while resisting more destructive garden visitors like deer and rabbits. The fine, crowded stems of the plant offer shelter to beneficial insects as well. For a natural look, plant your Russian sage in odd-numbered groups of three, five or seven plants. If you want to add an extra burst of color, consider pairing pink flowers with the sage for an attractive contrast. Household Uses of Sage The Russian sage is a distant relative of the mint family but is not the same as the sage commonly used as a spice. There are, however, still many Russian sage uses. Though the leaves of the Russian sage plant are slightly toxic and you should not eat them, the plant's flowers are edible and have a peppery flavor. You can use the leaves for garnish or steep them in a tea that many claim eases digestive discomfort. While you can't east Russian sage leaves, you can dry them to make a fragrant potpourri. You can also dry complete stalks of the Russian sage plant for use in dried flower arrangements.
Russian Sage Varieties Cultivars of Russian sage have a range of uses in gardens too. Russian sage "Little Spire" (Perovskia atriplicifolia "Little Spire") grows 1 1/2 to 2 feet tall and wide, and provides informal hedging and edging for paths. This compact plant also grows well in containers. Russian sage "Filigran" (Perovskia "Filigran") grows 2 to 4 feet tall and 2 to 3 feet wide, featuring lacy silvery foliage, which looks decorative in an ornamental border. Russian sage "Longin" (Perovskia "Longin") grows 3 to 4 feet tall and 2 to 3 feet wide, and has an upright habit, making it a useful vertical contrast to rounded, bushy plants. "Little Spire," "Filigran" and "Longin" are hardy in USDA zones 5 through 9.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月26日
Miss Chen
Hostas (Hosta spp.), also called plantain lily, funkia or August lily are cool customers in the shade garden. These herbaceous perennials die back in fall and live through winter in a dormant state, only to grow again the following spring. Hostas have some simple fall grooming needs. If they grow in containers or gardens in warmer climates, you'll also want to tuck them in to maintain a consistent soil temperature. Hosta Notes
Hostas do best in dappled shade or with two to three hours of morning sun. A well-draining, organic soil that stays moist, never soggy keeps these woodland plants growing and healthy. Garden hostas grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 8. A few extend past these limits. The old-fashioned August lily (Hosta plantanginea) grows in USDA zones 3 through 9 and Siebold's hostas (Hosta sieboldiana "Elegans") grow in USDA zones 4 through 9. Basic Trimming
Trim dead leaves down to the ground in late fall to prevent crown rot and to discourage rodents and slugs from adopting the pile for winter shelter. Whenever you groom hostas, clean shears and wipe cutting surfaces, which can become pitted, with a half-and-half mixture of rubbing alcohol and water to guard against transmission of fungal infections or rots. End of Season Care
When air temperatures begin to drop below 50 degrees Fahrenheit at night, the outer leaves begin to droop and leaf production in the center of each crown stops. Eventually, all of the leaves will become desiccated and drop over. It's important for your hostas to continue to receive 1 inch of water throughout the fall, but if soil deficiencies necessitate fertilizing hostas, stop feeding them in July or early August or you'll force them to continue to produce leaves. This growth will be pale and tender, making the whole plant -- including its crown and roots -- susceptible to frost damage. Wait until leaves fall over to groom hostas because they are needed after flowering to produce food for next year's growth. Preparing Container Hostas for Winter
If you have the space, sink potted hosta plants into the soil to keep the soil temperature from fluctuating. If the pots cannot be buried, move the plant containers into a sheltered area once you've trimmed the plants. Put them against a wall under an overhang or in an unheated building so the pots can't collect water over winter. Mulch to Regulate Temperature
In USDA zones 6 through 9 or if your hostas are in containers, mulch hostas with a 3- to 4-inch layer of pine straw to even out soil temperatures. All hostas grow and flower best when subjected to a period of freezing or near-freezing temperatures during their dormant periods. An Auburn University study found that, although the number of days or weeks varies by variety and cultivar, chilling encourages earlier emergence and better growth. Mulching keeps soil from heating and cooling each day and night, interrupting chilling periods. Mulch is not necessary in USDA zones below 6 where winter temperatures stay well below freezing for months.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月26日
Miss Chen
Hostas are one of the most popular herbaceous perennial plants grown around the world. They are easy to look after and will tolerate shade. Pruning your hosta will keep it looking good year-round and help to reduce the chances of it being attacked by an infection. Hostas need to be planted in soil which is not going to be allowed to dry out in hot weather as they will quickly wilt when thirsty. Regular watering and a layer of mulch will help to keep them in top condition.
Step 1 Prune the hosta in fall when the leaves have died back. This way the plant will have taken as much energy and nutrients as possible from the leaves for next spring. Use pruning shears to carefully cut the dead leaves back to the base of the stem. Avoid pulling leaves out using your hands as this can tear into the living tissue at the base of the plant, leaving a wound which is open to fungal infection. Step 2 Divide hostas in spring when you can clearly see where the new shoots are. Use a fork to dig the hosta out of the ground, removing as much soil from the roots as possible. Use pruning shears to remove any dead or unhealthy-looking roots. If left on the plant, this will worsen the plant's health and appearance. Use a spade to slice through the hosta root and replant the clumps at least 1 foot apart to give them space to grow.
Step 3 After pruning and division, apply a layer of mulch around the plant. Mulch can be either well-rotted manure or compost and should be no more then 2 inches thick to discourage slugs from using it as a home. Mulch will feed the plant and help to keep it healthy. Mulch also keeps the soil moist in hot weather.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月26日
Miss Chen
Azaleas, a member of the Rhododendron family, are shrubs that feature green, glossy leaves and clumps of colorful flowers--if grown under the right conditions. Once the heavy clay, alkaline Texas soil has been properly prepared to accommodate these picky bushes, the azalea has been planted in the soil properly and the appropriate spot to receive afternoon shade to protect the shrub from the Texas sun has been chosen the shrub rewards with showy flowers that require only a small amount of attention to maintain in Texas.
Step 1 Choose a location where the plant receives afternoon shade, such as the east or north side of your home, to protect the shrub from the Texas sun. Encore azaleas, which bloom in the spring and then again--for an encore--in the fall, are more tolerant of alkaline soils and heat, making them a good choice for Texas. Step 2 Place ground pine bark, peat moss and sandy loam on top of the chosen planting spot. Mix with the shovel and build a mound about 12 to 18 inches high and about 4 feet in diameter. The shallow roots of the azaleas grow in this well-aerated, nutrient-rich mixture rather than the heavy clay soil of Texas. Step 3 Spread expanded shale on top of mound until shale is 2 inches deep. Step 4 Sprinkle five handfuls of fertilizer on the mound. Mix the planting medium with the shovel, maintaining the mound.
Step 5 Place the shrub in the bucket of water and ensure the root ball is completely submerged. Soak until no bubbles rise to the top of the water. Remove shrub and cut the roots vertically in three places using the knife, allowing for new root growth. Step 6 Push dirt to the side in the middle of the mound. Make a hole almost the depth of the root ball. Place the azalea in the hole, ensuring the top of the root ball is slightly above ground. Step 7 Push the dirt back around the outside of the root ball, leaving the crown exposed. Mulch the entire mound without covering the crown or allowing the mulch around the trunk of the azalea. Mulch about 3 inches deep. Water well. Step 8 Check soil around the new shrub every day to ensure soil is slightly damp. Water when soil is dry. When growth of new leaves and flowers is obvious, water the root area well once or twice per week, depending on the weather. Maintain mulch depth for retention of moisture. Azaleas have shallow root systems and dry out quickly in the Texas heat. Step 9 Prune leggy stems just after flowering to make the shrub dense and compact. Do not prune or fertilize after budding begins around late July. Fertilize after pruning.
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