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Miss Chen
2018年08月14日
Miss Chen
The agave and aloe plants are succulents with fleshy, pointed leaves and a sculptural quality. Both provide a dramatic focal point in a garden. They are admired not only for their attractive form, but for their easy upkeep and drought tolerance. Though they appear superficially similar, there are many differences between the two plants. Agave is used for rope, tequila and a sugar substitute. Aloe is used for lotions and gels.
Origin Though both agave and aloe are native to desert regions, they come from different areas of the world and different families in the plant kingdom. Agave is from the Agavaceae family and is native to Mexico. It is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture zones 8 to 10. Aloe, a member of the tree lily family known as Aloaceae, is native to parts of Africa and Arabia. It is hardy in zones 9 and 10. Size Agaves range from 6 inches to 10 feet tall. The smallest is the Agave parviflora, which has sharp pointy leaves with curled fibers on the ends. The Agave mapisaga, on the other end of the spectrum, grows 10 feet feet tall and wide. There are more than 300 species of aloe, ranging from 2 inches across to tree height. Aloe vera, often grown as a houseplant and kept in the kitchen, contains a gel that helps heal minor burns. Larger aloe, such as the 50-foot-tall Aloe bainesii, has ''a grotesquely thickened trunk and tapering branches that make it look like a character out of a Dr. Seuss story,'' according to ''The Book of Outdoor Gardening.'' Flowers Many varieties of aloe have warmly colored red-orange, yellow or white flowers that replenish themselves throughout the plant's life. Aloe marlothii, for example, has side-leaning flowers that resemble red-hot flames blowing in the wind. It blooms year-round. A few agaves have flowers, but most of these bloom only once in the entire life of the plant. Queen Victoria agave is one flowering variety of agave. It blooms only after the plant has lived a decade or more and only in summer.
Leaves The leaves of the aloe and agave may look similar, but they are actually quite different. The agave has a fibrous leaf, with a vascular system of fibers running the entire length of each leaf. These fibers are used to make rope and string. The leaves often last the entire life of the agave. Aloe, on the other hand, has leaves with a gelatinous interior. Fibers are not present. Another difference is the leaf margin. Agave has distinct, sharp teeth on its margin, with a line of demarcation. Aloe has what appear to be teeth, but are actually just elongations of the leaf without any line of demarcation.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月14日
Miss Chen
Flowering perennial plants have a life cycle of two years or more. They require less maintenance than annual flowers and they include regional native flowering plants. Familiar flowering perennials include hollyhock, roses, Shasta daisies, carnations, iris, coreopsis, azaleas, hydrangeas and peonies. Native perennials such as Ceanothus, salvia, abutilon, yarrow, columbine and pawpaw, thrive in the natural climate and soil conditions of their native regions and do not require additional soil amendments.
Yarrow Common yarrow, also known as milfoil, is native to the entire United States. It is a member of the aster family of flowers and has many hybridized variations. Yarrow grows 3 feet in height, has lacy gray-green leaves and white or pink flat-topped clusters of flowers. This native flowering perennial adapts easily to a home garden where it spreads through seed from its mature flowers. It has fragrant foliage and has been traditionally used as a medicinal tea for stomach ailments. Yarrow blooms April to July in the south and west and from mid-July through September in the north. Butterfly Weed Butterfly weed, butterfly milkweed, orange milkweed and pleurisy root are the common names for this showy, abundant-blooming native perennial. Its bright yellow-orange flower clusters are 2 to 5 inches across and bloom from May to September. Its sturdy blooms are good cut flowers and are grown with other mid-size flowering perennials. It has a high drought tolerance, very low water usage and prefers sandy, well-draining soil. Indigenous people used the root of this plant as a cure for bronchitis and other lung ailments. Regional native plant nurseries provide seeds and started butterfly weed plants. Great Blue Lobelia Showy lavender blue tubular flowers grow on the stems of the native Great Blue Lobelia. This native plant flowering perennial thrives in moist garden conditions in sun or shade, in clay or sandy soil. It blooms July to September. It is commercially available through native plant nurseries, propagated by divided root clumps or seed. Seeds sprout easily on a slightly scratched soil surface. Great Blue Lobelia attracts birds and butterflies to the garden.
Desert Marigold This flowering short-lived perennial is native to the drier regions of the southwestern United States. Seeds are commercially available from online native plant resources. It is easily grown in home gardens where it provides yellow daisy-like flowers that bloom continuously from early spring to fall on a 12 to 18 inch mound. Its leaves are woolly and grayish, with one bloom at the end of each slender, leafless flower stalk. The desert marigold thrives in dry soil, part shade and extreme heat. It has very low water requirements and it attracts bees and butterflies.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月14日
Miss Chen
Hostas are popular perennials typically planted or transplanted in early spring and early fall. Gardeners have roughly 2,500 hosta varieties from which to choose, with each variety offering a wide array of leaf sizes, shapes, colors and textures. Some hostas even produce fragrant blooms.
Also known as plantain lilies, hostas are simple to care for and perfect for shade gardens. They are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 8, depending on their variety. Spring and Fall Planting The best times to plant or transplant hostas is in early spring after the last average annual frost date has passed. A late-spring frost can damage the plants' new leaves, however. Place plastic pots over emerging plants if temperatures are going below freezing. Hostas also can be planted or transplanted in early fall, or at least six weeks before the first average annual frost date. This gives it enough time for the plants to develop strong root systems before the ground freezes. Sun and Shade Although hostas do well in some shade, they don't thrive in full shade. However, they do especially well in locations with morning sunlight and afternoon shade. In full afternoon sunlight, hostas can find themselves with leaf burn during summer. If you have a particular planting spot in mind, choose hosta by leaf color. Hostas with blue leaves grow best in shade, and those with white, gold or yellow leaves prefer more sun exposure. Planting Hostas Hostas thrive in loamy, slightly acidic, well-draining soil. Add 6 inches of compost or organic matter to 12 inches of soil. The optimal pH level for hostas is 6.5 to 7.5. Dig a 12-inch-deep planting hole for each hosta plant. Make each hole's width 1 1/2 times the anticipated size of the plant's root ball at maturity, as indicated on the plant's label.
Tap around all sides of the container holding a hosta to loosen the soil and roots before removing the plant. Use fingers to loosen tangled root balls if necessary, and shake any loose soil from the roots. Do not add the loose soil to the planting hole. Plant your hosta in the hole at the same soil depth at which the plant grew in its container. Typically, the first set of leaves above the roots should be at ground level. If your hosta came with bare roots, soak the roots in lukewarm water for 30 minutes before planting. Build a small mound in the bottom of the planting hole, and spread the roots over the mound. Fill the hole with soil and water. Saturate the top 6 inches of soil around the plant with water. Watering Hosta Water hosta as needed, but at least once per week depending on the dryness of the soil. Soil should be moist and not dry. Early morning or in the evening when the sun begins to set is the best time to water the plants. Signs that hostas are underwatered include drooping leaves and burned leaf tips. Spring Growth Beginning in March, hostas alternate between producing leaves and roots. They have one or two cycles, or flushes, during which three or four oversized leaves emerge. These leaves take several weeks to open. After the first flush's leaves open, the plants begin to harden off, or become accustomed to the conditions, and produce waxy purple pigments. At the completion of this leaf phase, the plants start producing white roots above roots they produced the previous year. Soon the second flush begins with the emergence of three or four leaves. Keep the plants well-watered because the leaves consist mostly of water. Summer Flowers Hostas bloom for about three or more weeks in summer. Each lily-like blossom opens at the top of a long, vertical shoot. Bees pollinate the flowers, which then create seedpods. The black seeds inside the seedpods ripen in six to eight weeks. At the base of each blooming shoot, dormant buds emerge to become new shoots and leaves next spring. Fall Preparation When hostas' yellow pigments become visible and their green leaves turn to gold in fall, it signals the plants are preparing for winter. At that time, it is too late to plant or transplant them. Before the first snow, remove all foliage and stems from the hostas. Apply a 2- to 3-inch-thick layer of mulch over the soil of hostas you planted or transplanted in spring or fall to protect the plants during winter. Winter Dormancy During winter, hostas remain dormant, with no growth of any kind. Hostas require roughly 700 hours of temperatures below 40 degrees Fahrenheit. The longer the cold period lasts during their dormancy, the stronger the plants emerge in spring.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月14日
Miss Chen
Lilies (Lilium spp.) produce tall stems lined with many lance-like leaves and produce a cluster of flowers in late spring to early fall, depending on species. Over 100 lily species exist and hundreds more hybrid cultivars, such as those known as LA Hybrid, Asiatic or Orienpet lilies. Deadheading is the process of trimming off old, withering flowers with the hope of encouraging reblooming. Deadheading lilies is for aesthetic purposes only; lilies do not rebloom once their primary flowering display ends.
Reasons to Deadhead A gardener does not need to deadhead lilies in order for the plant to remain healthy. People concerned with tidy garden appearance may choose to trim off old, spent lily flowers from the stem tips to make the plant look better. Lily flowers that are not cut off will develop into a three-chamber capsule that forms seeds. If you want the clump of lily plants to grow more robust, cut off the seed capsules so the plant energy goes into developing larger bulbs in the ground. Otherwise, resources are put into producing seeds. How to Deadhead Lilies The structure and form of flowers on lilies vary by species, so take the time to examine the flower tip on plant stems before deadheading. You may opt to pluck off old lily blossoms one at a time by snipping them off where the short stem attaches to the main flower stem or stalk. Or, you can wait for all flowers in the lily cluster to wither before making one cut to trim off the upper reaches of the lily stalk. Caveats Do not cut off more of the main leafy stem stalk of a lily than necessary to remove the old flowering tip. You want as many leaves to remain as possible, since they make carbohydrates from sunlight that replenishes and enlarges the underground lily bulbs. Lily bulbs produce daughter bulbs at their base during the summer, thereby increasing the clump. In subsequent years, multiple large lily bulbs grow and produce more flowers than a lone lily bulb.
Insights on Other Plants Called Lily Horticulturists refer to species in the genus Lilium as "true lilies." Other members in the larger lily family, Liliaceae, and other plant families are also given common names of lily. Daylily, Peruvian lily, waterlily, lily-of-the-Nile, lily-of-the-valley, calla lily and toad lily are examples. These types of "false" lilies may or may not benefit from deadheading -- it depends on the individual species.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月13日
Miss Chen
Cordyline australis, also known as cabbage palm, is an exotic-looking tropical plant available in a variety of sizes and colors. The lance-shaped leaves are green or red with visible veins in shades of red, green or purple. Cordyline australis is a non-fussy plant ideal for beginners, with enough visual interest to captivate the most experienced gardeners. Cordyline australis is suitable for growing in U.S. Department of Agriculture hardiness zones 10b to 11. In cooler climates, plant Cordyline australis in a container, then grow the plant as an indoor plant or bring it indoors before the temperature drops in autumn.
Step 1 Plant Cordyline australis in nearly any well-drained soil where the plant will be exposed to moderate sunlight. A location with plenty of bright morning sunlight is best, as hot afternoon sunlight is too intense. If you prefer to grow Cordyline australis indoors as a potted houseplant, locate the plant near, but not directly in front of a sunny window. Containerized plants do best when planted in a pot filled with any commercial potting soil. A pot with a drainage hole is crucial. Step 2 Water Cordyline australis only when the soil feels dry, as the plant is drought-tolerant and may rot if soil is allowed to remain soggy. Water deeply enough to reach the roots, then allow the soil to dry before watering again. Check containerized plants often, especially if the plants are located outdoors during warm weather. If the potting soil feels dry, water until the water runs through the drainage hole, then allow the excess water to drain freely. Step 3 Fertilize Cordyline australis every other week. In-ground plants benefit from a balanced, liquid or granular fertilizer applied at the rate specified on the fertilizer label. Feed containerized plants a balanced water-soluble fertilizer mixed according to specifications on the container. Always apply fertilizer to moist soil, then water deeply immediately after fertilizing to ensure the fertilizer reaches the root zone. Avoid splashing fertilizer on the foliage.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月13日
Miss Chen
Potted mums are usually treated as annual flowers because they cannot tolerate the cold conditions during the winter months. Most potted varieties are known as florist's mums since they are sold as a living seasonal bouquet. A different mum variety, called hardy mum, is typically grown as a bedding plant. Tender, potted mums can survive the winter months with proper care and protection from frost, providing you with a second year of flowering the following fall.
Remove the mums from the pot they came in once flowering completes. Divide the roots of the separate plants. Most purchased mums come three or more plants to a pot.
Replant the mums into 6-inch diameter pots filled with standard potting soil, planting one plant per pot. Plant the mums at the same depth they were growing at in the previous pot.
Cut back the old flower stems on each mum plant. Trim the stems after the foliage begins to die back naturally.
Bring the mums indoors once the outdoor temperature drops below 60 degrees F. Place the mums in a sunny window. Leave mums outdoors in areas with warm winters.
Water the mums when the top of the soil begins to feel dry. Provide enough water to moisten the soil but avoid overwatering, which can cause soggy soil conditions.
Pinch off the top inch of each shoot once the shoots are approximately 6 inches long. Pinching causes lateral branching and further flower bud formation. Continue to pinch the plants until late July.
Move the plants outdoors once nighttime temperatures are regularly above 60 degrees F in spring. Bring the plants indoors temporarily if a late season frost is expected.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月13日
Miss Chen
When the turfgrass lawns all around it lie exhausted and brown in the summer heat, the narrow, arching, green foliage of liriope (Liriope muscari) keeps its cool. Perennial liriope, also known as lilyturf, isn't grass. In mass plantings, however, it forms a lush ground cover, with the late-summer bonus of lavender flower spikes.
Although marketed as an evergreen that is perennial in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 10, lilyturf may develop brown, withered foliage during winter in some areas. That is most likely to occur when temperatures drop below minus 10 degrees Fahrenheit. Deep cold isn't lilyturf's only enemy. In all climates, the fungal disease anthracnose may leave the plant brown and tattered. Whether cold or disease is the problem, a well-timed trim is the solution. Timing the Trim The best time to trim lilyturf's damaged old foliage is anytime before its healthy new foliage emerges in spring. Otherwise, you'll shave the top of the fresh growth as well as the old growth. Fall trimming of anthracnose-blemished plants -- in warm-winter climates, at least -- keeps them looking good until spring. Cutting back cold-damaged foliage can wait until anytime between January and April, depending on when the threat of subzero temperatures subsides in your area. Choosing Your Method Trim a large lilyturf planting with a lawn mower; for edgings or border-accent plants, hedge trimmers are easier to manage. Hedge trimmers are also better for cutting lilyturf with sprouting leaves because the tool can cut just above the new growth.
Making the Cuts Before mowing lilyturf, adjust the mower blades to their highest setting. Use the hedge trimmers like a giant pair of scissors. Kneeling, hold the trimmer grips firmly, and slide the blades into the foliage 3 to 4 inches above the crowns. As you cut, keep the blades horizontal and parallel to the ground. Otherwise, the trimmed plants will look uneven and spiky.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月13日
Miss Chen
Amstel Series begonias (Begonia x Hiemalis Amstel Series) have a mounding form, typically reaching about 12 inches tall. They usually bloom continuously throughout the growing season. The members of this series belong to the group called Rieger begonias, which were developed by crossing a tuberous begonia with a wax begonia.
Amstel begonias grow as perennials outdoors only in the frost-free climates in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 11, but you can treat them as annuals or grow them as houseplants elsewhere. Where to Plant Amstel begonias are relatively tolerant of heat and can grow in a variety of light conditions, but do best in a spot that receives sunlight filtered through leaves or that is otherwise partially shaded. Watering Amstel begonias need consistent moisture, but won't tolerate soggy, saturated soils. Monitor the soil's moisture level carefully, and water so the soil doesn't dry out completely but is never waterlogged. If you're growing your begonias in pots or containers, make sure the containers have drainage holes and are never left sitting in standing water. Fertilizer Amstel begonias benefit from a monthly application of fertilizer to help them to continue to bloom prolifically through the season. Mix 1/2 teaspoon of water-soluble 15-30-15 fertilizer in 1 gallon of water, and use the solution to water the plant. Apply it at the base of the plant, and avoid getting the fertilizer on the plant's leaves and stems. Pruning Over the course of the season, Amstel begonias may get leggy or have a ragged in appearance. If this happens, prune or pinch the stems back so that they contain three to five growth nodes. The plants will rebound from this severe pruning and should start to bloom again in a week or two. Removing wilted flowers promptly will encourage the plant to put its energy into new flowers and will help ensure it keeps blooming vigorously. If you use pruners to maintain the plant, dip the blades in isopropyl alcohol after each cut to help prevent the spread of diseases.
Pests and Diseases Amstel begonias are resistant to most pests and diseases and should be problem-free given good growing conditions. To prevent fungal infections, such as powdery mildew, avoid getting the leaves wet when you're watering and space the plants 12 to 15 inches apart so that there is plenty air circulation around the plants.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月13日
Miss Chen
Perennial delphiniums bloom from late spring to early summer, and may even grace you with a second showing in later summer or early fall. To make the most of the blooming season, deadhead these plants regularly. Deadheading, or the removal of spent flowers, is simply a way of coaxing these plants to form new blooms on the offshoots of their main stalks. When you remove the flowers before seeds are allowed to mature, delphinium plants sense that the seeds need to be replaced and send up more blooms. You're essentially fooling them into making more flowers for you.
Step 1 Cut stately blooming delphinium spikes freely for your stunning indoor arrangements throughout the growing season. Use clean, sharp shears and make your cuts just below the lowest flower on the stem. Step 2 Deadhead your delphiniums as the individual blooms fade. Cut a spent flower's stem completely back to the nearest pair of leaves or set of branching stems. This is where the next flower buds will emerge. Step 3 Remove the blooming stalk as soon as its last remaining flower is spent. Cut the spike off cleanly at the base of the plant.
Step 4 Prune any dead or damaged leaves out of the plant to tidy it up, if you wish. Don't remove any more of the foliage than necessary. Your delphinium will form new shoots from its base soon after you've cut the flower stem. The new growth will develop into flower spikes later in the season and they'll need the nourishment that the leaves provide.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月12日
Miss Chen
Few plants are more versatile than the begonia (Begonia spp.), which comes in many different types. One group is especially well-adapted to growing in a hanging planter or basket, either outdoors or in the house. This type of begonia is called trailing or scadent -- scadent means "climbing" -- because its branches can become quite long, in some varieties up to 8 feet, making them ideal for hanging planters. For example, some types of tuberous begonias (Begonia tuberosa) have this type of growth habit and do especially well as hanging plants. They grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11, but can also grow as annuals or as houseplants, needing only basic care and occasional trimming to thrive.
Light Needs Trailing begonias need strong light to produce a full, multi-stemmed plant with lots of flowers. If you grow the plant outdoors, keep it in a spot that gets some filtered sun in the morning, but avoid full sun at midday or during the hot afternoon hours because this could burn the plant. A spot under a widely-branched tree that provides shifting sun and partial shade is ideal. Indoors, keep a houseplant in a bright spot, such as in an east window where it gets some morning sun. If the leaves start to fade and become light green, this indicates that the begonia is getting too much light, so move the plant to a shadier spot. If the stems get extra-long, with long distances between leaf origins, this signals that the plant needs more light; in this case, move it to a brighter spot. Water Needs Hanging begonia plants do best when soil is evenly moist, but it's important not to over-water because this can cause constantly soggy soil which can damage the plant and, if uncorrected, might kill it. For an indoor-grown plant, water whenever the top inch or two feels dry to the touch, allowing the pot to drain fully. Never keep the pot in a water-filled saucer, because this can cause root rot. A hanging begonia grown outdoors needs watering whenever its soil surface feels dry. It's a good idea to check this every few days during the summer, because hot weather can cause the soil to dry quickly. Whether grown indoors or in the garden, a begonia slows its growth during winter when it rests, so cut back watering during the winter months.
Fertilizing Guidelines Fertilizing a hanging begonia every other time you give it water helps keep the plant growing and flowering during it active season, usually from spring until early fall. Use a balanced formula such as 20-20-20, diluting it half-strength or about 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of water, but check your product label for further directions. To boost flowering, you can switch to a high-phosphorus formula just before flowering starts, usually in early summer, to help set more flower buds. For example, use a 15-30-15 formula, diluting 1 tablespoon per gallon of water for garden plants and 1/2 teaspoon per gallon for houseplants, but check the product label for additional information. Feed the plant every one or two weeks until the blooming season ends, usually in fall. Withhold fertilizer during winter to give the plant a rest. Trimming and Other Care Trailing begonias in hanging planters can start appearing leggy as the season progresses and the stems get longer. Encourage bushier growth and lateral branching by pinching back the growing tips frequently, using your fingertips or shears that you wipe with rubbing alcohol between cuts to prevent spreading plant diseases. By varying the length of stems through trimming, you can also produce a more shapely plant. For an older plant, remove some old stems now and then to encourage new growth from the plant's base. Begonias are usually free of significant disease problems, but they can attract several pests, including fluffy white mealybugs. Control these by touching each pest with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol to destroy it. The plant might also attract spider mites, which form visible, web-like coverings on leaves and flowers. Destroy these pests by spraying the plant thoroughly with insecticidal soap, diluted at a rate of 5 tablespoons per gallon of water; repeat this every two weeks as needed. Frost Protection If you grow a hanging begonia outdoors year round and you expect unusual cold or even a bit of frost, bring the plant indoors until weather warms. You can also leave it outdoors, but protect it by hanging a light cloth from the planter's hook so it covers the entire plant, or by placing the planter in a plastic bag that's large enough to enclose the entire plant, tying the bag's open ends to the planter's hook. Be careful when removing any covering, so that you don't injure stems or flower buds.
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