动态第159页 - 绿手指 - 养花技巧、花生病了怎么办、花园打理和设计

2018年07月21日

According to the Gardener's Supply Company, seedlings become "leggy" when they do not receive enough hours of light or too much nitrogen in the soil. This term describes tall, spindly and unstable stalks and an overall malnourished look. Broccoli is one of many vegetables that exhibits leggy characteristics when it doesn't get enough light, and it is sometimes difficult to revive the plant from this state. If your broccoli seedlings have a long, thin stem or have fallen over, there is a chance of saving them if they have not withered too much, are white in color or have black spots on them. [图片]Step 1 Whether your broccoli sprouts are indoors or in an outside plot, you will need to give them more light if you hope to salvage them. Move indoor seedlings to south-facing windows to give them more hours of sun, or set up a small fluorescent light to help them grow before moving them outdoors. Transplant outdoor broccoli plants to a sunnier location in your garden, taking care not to rip the fragile shoots when uprooting them. Step 2 Amend the soil around your leggy seedlings to reduce the amount of nitrogen, which can cause plants to produce weak sprouts. Feed leggy broccoli with fertilizer high in phosphorous and low in nitrogen, and water regularly to dissipate the element. Step 3 Broccoli seedlings that are so leggy they have fallen over can be saved by being cut back. Cut the young plant back to its first true leaves, cover the roots and stem with supplemental top soil, and stake it if necessary. [图片]Step 4 Continue supporting your broccoli seedlings until they are mature and sturdy enough to go without such attentive care. Check their stake holdings every few days to make sure the seedlings are receiving the best system of support, and make sure the soil is moist, but not flooded or over saturated. Young broccoli plants benefit from a nitrogen-based fertilizer, once it has recovered from its "leggy" symptoms, and they require adequate sun and water, especially as the edible flower heads develop.

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Miss Chen

2018年07月20日

Potatoes (Solanum tuberosum) do well as an annual food crop in Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 1 through 7. While they are commonly grown in-ground by home gardeners, they can be easily and successfully grown in containers. Container-grown potatoes can be grown year-round, since they can be moved indoors so long as light requirements are met. To successfully grow potatoes in a bucket, choose your potato variety carefully. You also need to meet the growing requirements for potatoes. [图片]The most important requirement for your bucket is that it be made of material suitable for growing food. Food-safe plastic or garden-safe wood are the ideal materials for your bucket. Avoid metal as it can corrode over time and affect soil nutrition. Your bucket must also have good drainage, as sodden soil is extremely harmful to plants. Drill drainage holes in your bucket if it does not already have them. The size of your container is also important. Potatoes do well in large containers, so plan on 2 1/2 gallons of growing space per potato plant. Ensure that the container is at least 1 foot deep. Preparing the Soil and Growing Conditions Potatoes enjoy sandy, acidic soil that is nutrient-rich. Use a mix of compost and nutrient-rich potting or garden soil to fill your container. Place a layer of gravel or broken pieces of Styrofoam at the bottom of your bucket. This will help your container garden drain better. Fill your bucket almost to the top -- 1 inch below the rim -- with the compost and soil mix. Potato plants enjoy full sun and moist, but not sodden soil. Container gardens are more susceptible to dehydration during summer months. Keep your soil evenly moist, neither soaked nor dry to touch. Place a large dish under the bucket, keeping it filled with water. The plants and soil will absorb water as needed. This method also helps reduce the level of nutrients washed away during watering. Planting Potatoes To plant potatoes, you must start by chitting potatoes. This is especially important if you are planting potatoes in the late winter and early spring for a late spring harvest. Chit potatoes by laying your seed potatoes out in a cool, frost-free and sunny environment. Egg boxes or old seed trays work well. The eyes of the potatoes will produce shoots. Position these upward toward the sunlight for optimal results. When the shoots are 1 inch long, the seed potato can be planted. Prior to planting, evenly spread a small handful of a high-phosphorous fertilizer, such as bonemeal, 7 inches below the surface of the soil. Cover with 2 inches of soil and compost mixture. Then push a chitted seed potato below the surface of the dirt, with the shoots pointing upward. Push the chitted potato down no more than 5 inches deep, and cover with soil. The seed potato should not touch the fertilizer directly as it will burn the sensitive new shoots and roots of the plant. [图片]Varieties and Spacing Potatoes are categorized as earlies, second earlies and maincrop potatoes. Earlies are planted in the late winter and are harvested in early summer. Second earlies are planted in early spring and harvested midsummer. Maincrop potatoes are harvested in the fall, after an early spring planting. You can also plant potatoes in the late summer for a fall harvest. First and second early varieties work best for container potatoes. Salad potatoes, such as the "Charlotte" (Solanum tuberosum "Charlotte") and the "Lady Christi (Solanum tuberosum "Lady Christl), grow well in the restricted space of a container. But you can grow any size of white, red, yellow or russet potatoes successfully in containers, assuming there is enough space for the potato to mature. Unless you have a very large container, plant no more than three potato plants per container, spacing them evenly apart. The closer your plants are, the smaller your spuds will be.

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Miss Chen

2018年07月20日

We have all seen pictures of award-winning giant pumpkins that can tip the scales at more than 1000 pounds. How do they grow such giant pumpkins? Whether you are entering a pumpkin growing competition or simply want to amaze your friends and neighbors on Halloween with your gigantic Jack-O-Lantern, growing giant pumpkins can be a fun and rewarding hobby. [图片]Prepare the soil: Growing giant pumpkins requires top-quality soil. Most growers start preparing the soil in the fall by mulching with leaves, compost and manure. Check the PH levels using a PH tester that can be bought at any garden centre. Optimal soil PH for growing giant pumpkins is between 6.5 and 6.8, but it should be no higher than 7.0. Adjust the PH accordingly by adding lime to raise it, or sulfur to lower it. In the spring, turn the soil and test the PH again to make sure it is within acceptable levels and add a small amount of granular style timed-release balanced fertilizer. Choose a fertilizer that puts emphasis on phosphorus; such as 15-30-15 or 10-52-10 in order to ease transplant shock in seedlings. You will need a minimum of 400 square feet per pumpkin plant, so you will need to prepare your space according to how many plants you intend to grow. [图片]Start the seeds: Giant pumpkins do not grow from just any pumpkin seeds. There are many varieties of pumpkin seeds, and you will have to choose one that is specifically bred for producing giant pumpkins. You can start by looking into the Atlantic giant pumpkin seeds. Start seeds indoors in peat pots early in May. There is no point in starting them too soon because pumpkin seeds germinate very quickly and the plants will need to be planted before they get too big. Planting them early before the weather is warm enough will shock them and even kill them because pumpkin seedlings rely on warm soil as well as warm weather for growth. [图片]Transplant: Transplant your seedlings once they are well established with true leaves and strong roots. You can tell when the seedling has strong roots when you see the roots coming out of the bottom of the pot. Because pumpkin seedlings will grow very quickly, they should be ready for transplanting 7-10 days after germination. Do not transplant too early; transplanting seedlings too soon can result in the loss of many plants because they are not strong enough to withstand the shock of transplanting. Garden pests such as slugs also love to eat tender young shoots, so leaving your seedlings in their pots until they are well established gives the stems a chance to harden off so that the slugs cannot easily mow them down. [图片]Protect young plants: You will probably be planting your seedlings toward the end of May, so the weather can still be unsettled, depending on your location. To protect your young plants from stormy weather and cold nights, it is a good idea to put a clear plastic tent over them until they are established. A simple way to tent seedlings is by building a tripod, tepee-style using sticks or small bamboo stakes that can be found at any garden center. Wrap a strip of clear plastic around the tepee and secure with a stapler, leaving a vent at the top for air circulation. You can also cover the plants with cold frames made from glass windows, but be careful to remove them on hot days to avoid cooking the plants. [图片]Pollinate: Once blossoms appear, pollinate them by hand to ensure that the plants will form fruit. Upon examining the blossoms, you will notice that there are two different types of blossoms, male and female. The female blossom has a small pumpkin at its base, and no pollen on the inside. Male blossoms have a pollen-covered stamen in the middle. Pick a male blossom and remove the petals of the blossom, exposing the stamen, then use the stamen the way you would use a paintbrush, and dab pollen into each of the female flowers. Once pollinated, the pumpkins will begin to grow. [图片]Prune: Keep the vines under control by pruning them, beginning early in the season. Each main vine should be pruned 10 to 12 feet beyond a set fruit. If a pumpkin is growing from a main vine 10 feet or less from the root of the plant, the vine should be trimmed at 20-24 feet in length. Shoots that grow off of the main vines should be trimmed at eight feet of length. Cut ends should be buried in the ground to prevent water loss. Step 7 Select a favorite: The best way to grow truly gigantic pumpkins is to eliminate the competition. Examine the pumpkins on each vine and select the one that has the most potential. Tall, round pumpkins tend to grow the biggest. By the end of July, you should have chosen your champion. Remove all other pumpkins from the vines so that the plants can concentrate all of its energy into growing giant pumpkins. Step 8 Fertilize carefully: In the early stages of growth, bi-weekly moderate doses of a balanced fertilizer such as 20-20-20 will accelerate growth of well-established seedlings and vines. After July, you should switch to a fertilizer that puts emphasis on potassium, such as 15-11-29. Do not over-fertilize! Over-fertilization can cause pumpkins to separate from the vines and literally explode. [图片]Support vines: As giant pumpkins grow larger, they tend to lift the vines from the ground, placing them under stress. You can help ease the stress by gently lifting the vines and supporting them by placing blocks of wood or Styrofoam underneath them. Do not move vines in the morning, because they are stiffer when they are cool, and will break more easily. Step 10 Whether you grow them for competition or just for fun, growing giant pumpkins can be an exciting and educational process for the whole family to enjoy together. By following these steps, you can quickly become an expert at growing giant pumpkins.

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Miss Chen

2018年07月20日

Zucchini is a garden crop that grows easily and abundantly for most gardeners. Growing zucchini on a garden trellis is an effective way of growing more in a small space because less ground space is used. It also is easier to watch for disease and pests, because the vines are up off the ground. In addition, harvesting zucchini growing on trellises is simple because the zucchinis are readily found growing along the sides. Learn how easy it is to grow zucchini on a trellis. [图片]Step 1 To grow your zucchini plants, choose a location that is on the northern side of your growing area. This will prevent the trellis from shading any of your other plants. Step 2 Pound the side trellis posts at least 2 feet into the ground to make sure the trellis will withstand the weight of the zucchini plants and blowing wind. Step 3 Plant the zucchini seeds at the base of the trellis approximately 1/2 inch under the soil. Space the seeds so there are two seeds about every 3 feet along the base of the trellis. Step 4 Keep the zucchini seeds evenly moist while they are germinating. [图片]Step 5 Watch the seedlings as they sprout and grow taller. As soon as they start touching the wire mesh of the trellis, begin encouraging them to grow in, out and around the wire mesh of the trellis. You can lightly tie the stalks to the wire mesh to train them, but this should not be necessary. The vines will naturally want to grow up the trellis. Step 6 Monitor the plant as it begins to flower and zucchinis begin to grow. Keep the plants well watered. Step 7 For best flavor, pick zucchinis before they grow to be 8 inches long. Zucchinis that grow on a trellis tend to be prolific, and you will need to monitor them daily to make sure they do not grow too large.

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Miss Chen

2018年07月20日

Zucchini is a prolific vegetable that grows well in most soil as long as it gets plenty of sunlight. The leaves of the zucchini plant are substantial in size and offer shade for the vegetables beneath. Zucchini vegetables themselves do not require direct sunlight. Direct sunlight on the zucchini vegetable can cause the skin to harden and mature too quickly. Pruning zucchini can be beneficial when garden space is an issue, to promote new growth, and for safety purposes when harvesting zucchini. [图片]Step 1 Using a sharp knife, cut away a few oversize leaves of the zucchini plant after it has started bearing zucchini. Step 2 Cut the leaves at the base of the zucchini plant. Step 3 Avoid pruning near flowering blossoms or new growth as it could reduce vegetable production. [图片]Step 4 Discard pruned leaves away from the zucchini plant to avoid squash aphids and other insects that could pose problems.

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Miss Chen

2018年07月20日

Baby red potatoes are a thin-skinned variety with a creamy texture and mild flesh. They are also called new potatoes and can be steamed, boiled or roasted. While small--about 1 to 3 inches long--they contain the same nutrients as a full-sized potato. All potatoes need loose (to a depth of 3 or 4 feet), well-drained soil with a pH of 5.2 to 6.8 for proper tuber development. Potatoes are plagued with a host of insect pests and bacterial diseases. Keeping your soil healthy by adding compost and rotating crops will minimize damage to your potato plants. [图片]Step 1 Choose a spot with full sun in an area of the garden you have not used to grow potatoes, tomatoes, peppers or eggplants in three years. Do this the fall before planting potatoes. Step 2 Cover the area you've chosen with compost, and work the compost into the soil to a depth of 6 inches. Baby red potatoes are planted in early spring as soon as the soil warms up to a daytime temperature of 51 degrees. Step 3 In the spring, when you're ready to plant, cut the certified red seed potatoes into chunks, making sure each chunk has two to three "eyes". Step 4 Plant your potato chunks in hills with two to three pieces per hill. Cluster your potato pieces together, and cover them with 3 to 4 inches of soil. The centers of the hills should be 1 foot apart. As an alternative, you can make a furrow 3 inches deep. Drop your eyes into the furrow 10 to 12 inches apart. Space the rows 24 inches apart. [图片]Step 5 When the potato plant sprouts, begin "hilling" soil or compost around the plant. When the plant reaches 3 to 4 inches high, cover half of the plant with soil. When the plant grows another 3 to 4 inches, cover half of the new growth with soil. Continue to do that until the plant is growing out of a mound of soil 4 to 6 inches high. Hilling the soil prevents tubers from being exposed to the sun. Once tubers are exposed to the sun, they turn green and develop a toxin. Green tubers need to be disposed of. Step 6 Mulch between rows and hills. The mulch reduces weed growth and retains moisture. Step 7 When your red potatoes have developed their first set of true leaves, spray them with a foliar spray made of fish emulsion or seaweed. The foliar spray provides the nutrients your potato plants need to produce tubers and stay healthy through insect attacks and disease. Spray once a week until all the red potato plant flowers are in full bloom. Step 8 When your red potato plants have sprouted, cover them with a floating row cover. The floating row cover allows sunlight and water to reach the potato plants but keeps insect pests from reaching the plants. You may remove the floating row covers when the plants begin to flower. Step 9 Water your plants every other day. The soil should be moist, but you need to avoid leaving standing water. Step 10 Start checking potato growth in late spring. Harvest new potatoes when they are between 1 and 2 inches long by digging gently around the potato plants and using a sharp knife to cut the potatoes cleanly away from the roots. Allow smaller potatoes to continue to grow before harvesting to extend the harvesting season. Step 11 When you have harvested all the tubers on a potato plant, pull the plant up and add it to your compost pile.

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Miss Chen

2018年07月19日

Vining cucumbers (Cucumis sativus) are annual plants, and they grow well vertically on a trellis, poles and other upright supports. Growing cucumbers vertically saves space, reduces leaf diseases and pest attack, and provides the heavier harvests than if the plants are grown along the ground. Another benefit of growing cucumbers vertically is that Asian and oriental varieties produce long, straight fruit. Growing Spots Fertile, organically rich, freely draining soil and at least six hours of direct sun every day provide the best growing conditions for cucumbers. The soil pH should be around 7.0, which is neutral, and its temperature should be at least 65 degrees Fahrenheit for healthy growth. Cucumbers grow best in warm conditions. [图片]Space cucumbers 8 to 15 inches apart or 10 inches apart if you're growing cucumbers up a trellis. Supports for Cucumbers Supports for cucumbers should be at least 6 feet tall. Cucumbers grow up to 6 feet tall and wide, and often grow 3 to 5 feet long before setting fruit. Set up the supports before planting cucumbers to avoid disturbing the plants' roots. Trellis provides a sturdy support, or you can grow cucumbers up bamboo poles or from hanging baskets. Push three 8-foot bamboo poles 1 foot into the soil 1 foot apart in a triangle. Tie the top ends together with twine to make a pyramidal shape, and plant one cucumber at the base of each pole. Another option is to grow cucumbers in hanging baskets, allowing the plants to trail. 'Pot Luck' is a cucumber variety that grows well in hanging baskets. Grow one cucumber in each basket. Water Needs Cucumbers are thirsty plants that need frequent watering to grow and fruit well. The soil around their roots should be evenly moist, not dry and crumbly or wet and soggy. Wilting leaves are a sign of under- or overwatered cucumbers. Water cucumbers when the soil is dry to a depth of 1/2 inch. Apply enough water to moisten the soil to the depth of the root balls. In hot, dry weather, cucumbers may need water every day. [图片]Fertilizer for Cucumbers Fertilizing cucumbers twice during the growing season provides the best results. Sprinkle 1 cup of 10-10-10 or 10-20-10 fertilizer along each 10 feet of row, or 2 tablespoons around each plant, at planting, and apply 1/2 cup or 1 tablespoon of the same fertilizer when the cucumbers are 10 to 12 inches tall. . Gently rake the fertilizer into the soil surface and water it into the soil. Training and Pinching Cucumbers sometimes need help to grow up their support, and pinching to control their size when they grow too tall. When cucumber shoots stray from the trellis or other support, tie them to the support with pieces of soft twine. If cucumbers grow too tall for their support, pinch off the shoot tips. Stopping upward growth in this way encourages sideways growth and more fruits. Cucumber Varieties Most vining cucumbers grow well vertically in small spaces. "Japanese Climbing" produces fruit 7 to 9 inches long and up to 3 inches in diameter, and "Marketmore 76" is a high-yielding variety with fruit 8 to 9 inches long and 2 to 2 1/2 inches in diameter. "Stallion White Cucumber" is named for its white or pale green fruit, which grow 6 to 8 inches long. Another variety to consider is "Yamamoto Extra Long" for the novelty of its 24-inch-long fruit.

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Miss Chen

2018年07月19日

Zucchini (Cucurbita pepo), also called summer squash, is a warm-season vegetable that should be planted after all danger of frost has passed. A frost-tender annual, zucchini can be once the soil has warmed to at least 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Most zucchini varieties reach maturity in roughly 60 days and are best harvested when still young and tender. [图片]Growth Stages Plant the large zucchini seeds directly into the garden in the spring, or get a jump-start on the season by starting the seeds indoors several weeks before the last frost date for your area. Once the seeds have germinated, they develop quickly into vines that need plenty of space to sprawl. Flowers open in about 50 days, and the tiny squash appear soon after that. Growth proceeds rapidly from that point, and it's a good idea to start harvesting when the zucchini are no more than 6 to 8 inches long and up to 3 inches in diameter. At this stage, the squash is tender and sweet, and the seeds are small. It's okay to let them grow a little longer, but quality deteriorates rapidly in zucchini that are allowed to stay on the vine too long. Picking Strategies The large leaves on zucchini or summer squash plants are often prickly and conceal the bounty of fruit growing beneath them. When harvesting, select a dry sunny day, because working in the wet plants promotes disease. Gently move the leaves aside, being careful not to break them or damage any rootlets that have formed along the vines and taken hold in the soil. Using a sharp knife, cut through the thick stem about halfway from the blossom end, and harvest as many zucchini as you can to keep the plants producing. Past-Due Picking Zucchini that are left on the vines too long past the ideal picking time often grow large, their skin toughens and the flesh becomes more fibrous. The seeds grow larger inside the fruit, too, and the once-tender and sweet flesh becomes waterlogged and loses much of its flavor and firm texture. While the squash are still edible at this stage, you generally have to peel them and remove the seeds and any tough fibers that have developed around the seeds. Zucchinis that were harvested young retain their shape during cooking, making them ideal for stir-fries and for stuffing and baking whole, while older fruit turns mushy more quickly because they take longer to cook. [图片]Storage and Preservation When storing your newly picked zucchini, opt for a paper bag over a plastic grocery bag, because the plastic encourages the production of moisture released by the squash. Stored in a paper bag in the crisper tray of your refrigerator, the zucchini will keep for up to 10 days. If you have a bounty of young tender zucchini, freeze what you can't use within 10 days by washing the squash, cutting it into rounds or cubes, and blanching it for about two minutes in boiling water. Remove the squash from the boiling water, plunge it into ice water, drain it on paper towels and freeze in plastic containers or plastic bags.

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Miss Chen

2018年07月19日

Zucchini is one of the most popular varieties of summer squash because it grows quickly and easily in many climates. Although they're traditionally dark green, zucchini can also be yellow, striped, speckled or even nearly white. Gardeners plant zucchini seeds in full sun, one-inch deep directly in well-drained, fertile soil once after the danger of frost has passed. Single seeds should be planted 24 to 36 inches apart or four to five seeds to a hill, with hills spaced 48 inches apart. Seed packets provide spacing instructions for specific zucchini varieties. Seeds can be planted from early spring to mid-summer to produce zucchinis from late summer to fall. [图片]Planting Growth The plants will take four to nine days to emerge from seed, depending on the soil temperature. Vines will develop rapidly and spread across a wide area. The plant will sprout blossoms, male and female, after about six weeks. Only female blossoms bear fruit, but male blossoms are necessary for pollination. Bees carry pollen from the male flowers to the female flowers. If small fruit forms but withers and falls off the vine, pollination has not occurred. Planting flowers near the squash plants encourages bee to pollinate the plants. [图片]Harvest Once blossoms appear and pollination takes place, zucchini will grow quickly in the warm weather and may be ready to pick in as few as four days or up to a week. Harvest zucchini when it is about 2 inches in diameter and about 6 to 8 inches long. Don't allow the squash to get too big or overripe, or it will be tough and seedy. For more delicate texture, zucchini can be harvested when it is even smaller. The blossoms can also be used in gourmet dishes. Zucchini should be ready to pick about two months after it is planted. Once you've started harvesting, continuing to pick the squash encourages the plant to produce more. Cutting the zucchini off with a knife prevents damage to the plant. Zucchini can be stored for up to two weeks. By late summer, many gardeners find they have so much zucchini they can't give it away fast enough. There's even a national day in celebration of the phenomenon: August 8 is National Sneak Some Zucchini Onto Your Neighbor's Porch Night.

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Miss Chen

2018年07月19日

Radishes are one of the first vegetables ready for harvest in the spring. Most varieties have a maturity date of approximately 25 days from planting, and you can sow the seeds every 10 to 14 days until the weather turns hot. Radishes are also planted in mid-summer for a fall crop. Winter storage radishes grow larger and do not mature until 50 to 70 days after planting. Edible pod radishes are grown for their seedpods, which mature in 50 days. Growing conditions affect the final maturity date, so consider the harvest dates printed on seed packets to be estimates. Small Radishes [图片]When you plant the seeds, record the expected maturity date. Record the expected maturity date for each radish variety the day you plant the seeds. Use a waterproof marker to write the date on a plastic row label or jot it in a notebook. picking vegetables [图片]Check the radishes five to seven days before the maturity date by pulling one from the ground. Harvest the sample radish by grasping the bottom of the foliage near the soil and firmly pulling upward. If the radish is 1/2 to 1 inch across, the crop is ready to harvest. Fresh radish from ground [图片]Remove the leaves with garden snips, wash the radishes and place them in plastic bags. They will keep for two to four weeks in the refrigerator. Winter Radishes [图片]Harvest winter radishes any time after the expected harvest date. You may leave them in the ground until two weeks before the first frost date in the fall. picking vegetables [图片]Pick winter radishes by grasping the foliage near the soil and pulling upward. food refrigerator [图片]Store the radishes where they will remain cool and moist, for up to two months. Edible Pod Radishes [图片]Check the plants every two to three days after the blossoms appear. The pods resemble green beans, with the lower pods ripening first. Fresh Salad [图片]Harvest the pods when they are the thickness of a pencil for peak flavor. Pick a rat-tail radish by grasping the small stem at one end of the pod and bending it to the side until it snaps it off where the stem attaches to the branch. "Russian traditional Okroshka, summer soup" [图片]Use edible pod radishes soon after picking them or store them in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to one week.

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