动态第157页 - 绿手指 - 养花技巧、花生病了怎么办、花园打理和设计

2018年07月24日

Description: This plant is a summer annual about 1½–3' long; it branches occasionally, especially near the base. The stems are erect, ascending, or sprawling (often the latter); they are light green, more or less white-mealy, and terete or angular. The larger stems often have white longitudinal veins. The lowest leaves are opposite, while the remaining leaves are alternate; they have slender petioles up to 1" long. The leaf blades are up to 3½" long and ¾" across, becoming gradually smaller as they ascend the stems; they are green, flat, and either smooth or slightly undulate along their margins. The leaf blades have different shapes, but they are usually lanceolate-ovate, lanceolate, or oblong-linear; some leaves may have 1 or 2 lobes toward the base of their blades. The upper surface of each blade is hairless or glabrous, while the lower surface is often white-mealy. The upper stems terminate in spikes or spike-like panicles of flowers; axillary spikes also develop from some of the upper leaves. The flowers are arranged in sessile clusters along the spikes or the branches of the panicles. Common Orach is monoecious with separate male (staminate) and female (pistillate) flowers on the same plant. Each male flower has 5 sepals and 5 stamens; it is whitish green and about 1/8" (3 mm.) across. Each female flower has an ovary with 2 styles and a pair of small bracts at its base; it is green and about 1/8" (3 mm.) across. The male flowers lack petals, while the female flowers have neither petals nor sepals. The flowers and branches of each inflorescence are white-mealy. The blooming period occurs during late summer into the fall. Pollination is by wind. The bracts of the female flowers enlarge in size, becoming triangular-hastate in shape and about 1/5" (5 mm.) in length; they form a flattened fruit that encloses the developing seed. Mature seeds are flattened, circular, and shiny black; each seed is covered by a thin rough membrane that is difficult to remove. The root system consists of a branching taproot. This plant spreads by reseeding itself. Cultivation: The preference is full sun to light shade, moist to mesic conditions, and a fertile loamy soil. Toleration of salty alkaline conditions is quite good, although in Illinois this species is usually found in ordinary garden soil. [图片]Range & Habitat: The adventive Common Orach occurs occasionally in central and northern Illinois, while in the southern part of the state it is uncommon (see Distribution Map). This species is native to Eurasia and northern Africa. Habitats include woodland borders, gardens, edges of yards, unmowed areas around telephone poles and tree stumps, areas along railroads and roadsides, dumps, and waste areas. Areas with a history of disturbance are preferred. In Illinois, this species is not invasive of natural habitats. Faunal Associations: Insects that feed primarily on the leaves of Atriplex spp., including Common Orach (Atriplex patula), are larvae of a fly, Pegomya hyoscyami (Spinach Leafminer); larvae of Emmelina monodactyla (Morning Glory Plume Moth), Chrysoesthia drurella (Goosefoot Leafminer Moth), and Chrysoesthia lingulacella (Flamboyent Twirler Moth); adults of Chaetocnema concinna (Brassy Flea Beetle); and Hayhurstia atriplicis (Chenopodium Aphid). Because the foliage and seeds of herbaceous Atriplex spp. are similar to those of Chenopodium spp., they may have similar floral-faunal relationships in the eastern United States. In particular, granivorous songbirds (e.g., various sparrows) probably eat the seeds. Photographic Location: The photographs were taken near a vegetable garden in Urbana, Illinois, and along the edge of a wooded area in Champaign County, Illinois. [图片]Comments: This plant has unusual arrowhead-shaped fruits. While other Atriplex spp. have such fruits, there are usually more lobes and other irregularities along the margins of their fruits. The foliage of Common Orach is very similar to the foliage of some Chenopodium spp. (Goosefoots). However, the latter have button-shaped fruits with 5 folded sepals. Because of the variability of its leaves, different varieties of Common Orach have been described. The typical variety (described here) has lanceolate leaves, while var. littoralis has linear leaves and var. hastata has triangular-hastate leaves. Some authorities consider these varieties to be different species (see Mohlenbrock, 2001). Common Orach should not be confused with Atriplex hortensis (Garden Orach), which is occasionally grown in gardens as either a potherb or ornamental plant. This latter species has fruits with nearly orbicular bracts that are conspicuously veined. In dry areas of the Western states, there are woody to semi-woody Atriplex spp. that are quite distinct. These are referred to as 'Saltbushes.'

...显示更多

0

文章

😀 😁 😂 😄 😆 😉 😊 😋 😎 😍 😘 🙂 😐 😏 😣 😯 😪 😫 😌 😜 😒 😔 😖 😤 😭 😱 😳 😵 😠

* 仅支持 .JPG .JPEG .PNG .GIF

* 图片尺寸不得小于300*300px

Miss Chen

2018年07月24日

Description: This herbaceous perennial plant is 2½–7' tall at maturity, branching occasionally. At the base of the plant, the primary stem is relatively stout (up to 1" across) and angular-terete. Small alternate leaves are appressed against this stem; they are light yellow to purple, deltate in shape, and scale-like in appearance. As the primary stem continues to lengthen, it develops alternate secondary stems that are more slender and either ascending or widely spreading. These secondary stems also have alternate leaves that are even smaller in size, scale-like in appearance, and appressed. Both the primary stem and secondary stems are grayish green, glabrous, and sometimes glaucous. Along the secondary stems and upper half of the primary stem, there are whorls of 4-15 stemlets (cladophylls) that resemble needle-like leaves; they develop from the axils of scale-like leaves. Relative to their stems, these stemlets are ascending to widely spreading; the latter are ¼–1¼" long, about 1 mm. across, grayish green to green, glabrous, and narrowly linear in shape. Sometimes either solitary or clusters of 2-3 nodding flowers develop from the axils of leaves. The pedicels of these flowers are up to 1" long and glabrous. Individual plants can develop either all male (staminate) flowers, all female (pistillate) flowers, or a mixture of unisexual and perfect (bisexual) flowers. Individual flowers are up to 8 mm. (1/3") long and narrowly bell-shaped (campanulate), consisting of 6 lanceolate-oblong tepals that are either greenish white or greenish yellow. The tepals are joined together, except at their tips, where they are either recurved or straight. Male flowers have 6 stamens with yellow anthers, while female flowers have a pistil with a single style; perfect flowers have both stamens and a pistil. The blooming period occurs during early to mid-summer, lasting about 3-4 weeks. Afterwards, fertile female flowers are replaced by fleshy berries that become about 6-8 mm. across at maturity. The berries are globoid in shape and glabrous; they are initially green to yellowish green, but they become red at maturity. Remnants of the shrunken tepals often persist where the pedicels join the berries; each berry usually contains 2-4 seeds inside. The root system produces rhizomes that are long and spreading. As a result, clonal colonies of plants often develop. [图片]Cultivation: The preference is full sun and moist to slightly dry conditions. This plant grows readily in soil that contains loam, sand, or gravelly material; it forms clonal colonies more readily in soil that is sandy or somewhat loose and gritty. Growth and develop during the late spring and early summer is very rapid. When the vernal stems are about 6" long, they can be cut at their bases and prepared like cultivated asparagus. However, the soil should not be contaminated with toxic chemicals; contaminated soil is common along roadsides and railroads. Wild Asparagus appears to have fewer problems with disease organisms than some cultivated varieties of asparagus. This plant can spread aggressively in some situations, and it is resistant to some commonly-applied herbicides (e.g., those targeting dicots). Range & Habitat: The non-native Wild Asparagus is a fairly common plant that occurs in most counties of Illinois (see Distribution Map). Official records probably underestimate its true distribution. This plant was introduced into North America from Europe as a cultivated vegetable. It has been cultivated as an edible vegetable since antiquity, and it is still popular as a vegetable today. Naturalized plants can be found in such habitats as black soil prairies, grassy meadows, thickets, fence rows, powerline clearances in wooded areas, abandoned fields, vacant lots, gravelly areas along railroads, grassy roadsides, and waste areas. Typical, sandy, or gravelly habitats with a history of disturbance are preferred. However, Wild Asparagus can invade high quality natural areas to some extent. [图片]Faunal Associations: The nectar and pollen of the flowers attract small- to medium-sized bees. In Germany, Müller (1873/1883) observed honeybees, mason bees (Osmia spp.), masked bees (Hylaeus spp.), Halictid bees, and the leaf-cutting bee, Megachile centuncularis, visiting the flowers. In Wisconsin and Illinois, Graenicher (1907) and Robertson (1929) observed similar bees, including the same leaf-cutting bee as Müller. Some insects feed destructively on the foliage and other parts of both cultivated and Wild Asparagus. This includes both the adults and larvae of Crioceris asparagi (Asparagus Beetle), Crioceris duodecimpunctata (Spotted Asparagus Beetle), and Lilioceris lilii (Lily Leaf Beetle). Other insect feeders include the larvae of Ophiomyia simplex (Asparagus Miner Fly), Brachycorynella asparagi (Asparagus Aphid), the larvae of Anacamptodes humaria (Small Purplish Gray) and other moths, Euschistus servus (Brown Stink Bug) and other stink bugs, Atlanticus testaceus (Protean Shieldback), Scudderia curvicauda (Curve-tailed Bush Katydid), and other species in the Orthoptera (Clark et al., 2004; Spencer & Steyskal, 1986; Cranshaw, 2004; Covell, 1984/2005; Rider, 2009; Gangwere, 1967; Gangwere, 1961). The red berries of Wild Asparagus are distributed by birds, but information about this for North America is limited. According to Beal (1915), the berries are eaten by the Eastern Bluebird to a minor extent. Swanson (1952) reported that both the Ring-necked Pheasant and Coyote sometimes eat the berries as emergency food. While the young shoots of Wild Asparagus are tender and edible, at maturity they become stringy and tough. Cattle have reportedly been poisoned from the consumption of mature plants. [图片]Photographic Location: Along a railroad in Champaign, Illinois. Comments: Wild Asparagus is the same species as the asparagus that is cultivated in gardens, except that it has escaped into uncultivated areas, where it often persists. This is an odd-looking plant of the Lily family with insignificant scale-leaves and a spindly appearance. What appears to be needle-like leaves along the stems, are whorls of linear stemlets; these stemlets are not true leaves. Although the flowers are produced in abundance on large healthy plants, they are not very showy. Most dioecious plants in Illinois with either all male or all female flowers are wind-pollinated. However, Wild Asparagus is an exception because it is insect-pollinated.

...显示更多

0

文章

😀 😁 😂 😄 😆 😉 😊 😋 😎 😍 😘 🙂 😐 😏 😣 😯 😪 😫 😌 😜 😒 😔 😖 😤 😭 😱 😳 😵 😠

* 仅支持 .JPG .JPEG .PNG .GIF

* 图片尺寸不得小于300*300px

Miss Chen

2018年07月24日

Description: This herbaceous perennial plant is 2-6' tall and unbranched, except sometimes toward the apex, where the flowers occur. The central stem is relative stout, pale green, terete, and usually short-pubescent (less often glabrous). The opposite leaves are up to 8" long and 3½" wide, broadly oblong in shape, and smooth along their margins. The upper leaf surface is pale-medium to dark green and hairless above, while the lower leaf surface is densely covered with woolly hairs that are very short. There is a prominent central vein along the length of each leaf, and finer side veins that radiate outward toward the smooth margins. When either the central stem or leaves are torn, a milky sap oozes out that has variable toxicity in the form of cardiac glycosides. Umbels of flowers, each about 2½-4" across, emerge from the axils of the upper leaves. These flowers are quite fragrant, with a scent resembling violets or pansies, and they range in color from faded light pink to reddish purple. Each flower is about ¼" across, consisting of 5 reflexed petals and 5 raised hoods with curved horns. The hoods are more light-colored than the petals. The pedicels of the flowers are light green to pale red and hairy. The blooming period lasts about 1-1½ months from early to mid-summer. The seedpods (follicles) are 3-4" long, broadly lanceoloid, and covered with soft prickles and short woolly hairs. At maturity, each seedpod split along one side to release numerous seeds that have large tufts of white hair. Dispersion of seed is by wind. The root system has long creeping rhizomes, promoting the vegetative spread of this plant. [图片]Cultivation: The preference is full sun, rich loamy soil, and mesic conditions, but this robust plant can tolerate a variety of situations, including partial sun and a high clay or sand content in the soil. Under ideal conditions, Common Milkweed can become 6' tall and spread aggressively, but it is more typically about 3-4' tall. This plant is very easy to grow once it becomes established. Range & Habitat: The native Common Milkweed occurs in every county of Illinois and it is quite common (see Distribution Map). Habitats include moist to dry black soil prairies, sand prairies, sand dunes along lake shores, thickets, woodland borders, fields and pastures, abandoned fields, vacant lots, fence rows, and areas along railroads and roadsides. This plant is a colonizer of disturbed areas in both natural and developed habitats. [图片]Faunal Associations: The flowers are very popular with many kinds of insects, especially long-tongued bees, wasps, flies, skippers, and butterflies, which seek nectar. Other insect visitors include short-tongued bees, various milkweed plant bugs, and moths, including Sphinx moths. Among these, the larger butterflies, predatory wasps, and long-tongued bees are more likely to remove the pollinia from the flowers. Some of the smaller insects can have their legs entrapped by the flowers and die. Common Milkweed doesn't produce fertile seeds without cross-pollination. The caterpillars of Danaus plexippes (Monarch Butterfly) feed on the foliage, as do the caterpillars of a few moths, including Enchaetes egle (Milkweed Tiger Moth), Cycnia inopinatus (Unexpected Cycnia), and Cycnia tenera (Delicate Cycnia). Less common insects feeding on this plant include Neacoryphus bicrucis (Seed Bug sp.) and Gymnetron tetrum (Weevil sp.); see Insect Table for other insect feeders). Many of these insects are brightly colored – a warning to potential predators of the toxicity that they acquired from feeding on milkweed. Mammalian herbivores don't eat this plant because of the bitterness of the leaves and their toxic properties. [图片]Photographic Location: The photographs were taken at Meadowbrook Park in Urbana, Illinois, and along a roadside ditch in Champaign, Illinois. Comments: Depending on the local ecotype, Common Milkweed is highly variable in appearance. The color of the flowers may be highly attractive, or faded and dingy-looking. This plant is often regarded as a weed to be destroyed, but its flowers and foliage provide food for many kinds of insects. Common Milkweed can be distinguished from other milkweeds by its prickly follicles (seedpods) – other Asclepias spp. within Illinois have follicles that are smooth, or nearly so.

...显示更多

0

文章

😀 😁 😂 😄 😆 😉 😊 😋 😎 😍 😘 🙂 😐 😏 😣 😯 😪 😫 😌 😜 😒 😔 😖 😤 😭 😱 😳 😵 😠

* 仅支持 .JPG .JPEG .PNG .GIF

* 图片尺寸不得小于300*300px

Miss Chen

2018年07月24日

Description: This herbaceous perennial plant is 2-4' tall, branching abundantly in the upper half where the flowerheads occur. The stems are largely hairless, angular, and furrowed, although the upper flowering stems are usually pubescent. The lower stems often become reddish or woody in appearance with maturity. The alternate leaves are up to 4" long and 3" across, becoming smaller in size and more narrow as they ascend the stems. The upper surface of these leaves is green and hairless, while their lower surface is white from fine pubescent hairs. The lower and middle leaves usually have 1-2 pairs of deep primary lobes that are often irregularly spaced; these primary lobes are often shallowly cleft by one or more secondary lobes, or they have may a few large teeth. At the base of these leaves, there are often 1 or 2 small eared lobes. The upper leaves have few lobes or none, eventually becoming linear on the flowering stems. The inflorescence is a large panicle of leafy spikes with flowerheads. Each flowerhead is 1/8" (3 mm.) across or a little larger, consisting of numerous rayless florets. The florets in the center of the flowerhead are fertile and perfect, while the florets along the outer margin of the flowerhead are fertile and pistillate. The central florets are tubular with 5 recurved lobes, while the marginal florets have only 1 or 2 lobes. All of these florets have a divided style. At the base of the flowerhead are several floral bracts that are finely pubescent. Except for their abundance, these flowerheads are inconspicuous. At the bud stage they are whitish green, becoming dull yellowish green or purplish green with maturity. The blooming period occurs from late summer to early fall, and lasts about 1 month. Pollination is by wind. Each floret is replaced by an oblong achene that is without a tuft of hairs. These achenes are small and light enough to be blown about by the wind. The root system is quite rhizomatous, and often produces clonal colonies of plants. Cultivation: Mugwort prefers full or partial sun and moist to slightly dry conditions. It adapts well to loam, clay-loam, or gravelly soil, and slightly acid to alkaline conditions. This plant can spread aggressively, forming dense colonies that exclude other plants. [图片]Range & Habitat: Surprisingly, Mugwort is a rather uncommon plant in Illinois, occurring in only a few counties in the northern half of the state (see Distribution Map). It was introduced into the United States from Eurasia as an herbal plant. Habitats include areas along railroads, edges of woods, prairie restorations, herbal gardens, and miscellaneous waste places. This plant usually occurs in disturbed areas, but it has displayed a capacity to invade more natural sites, even when fire is used as a management tool. This plant may become more of a problem in the future. Faunal Associations: The flowerheads attract few insects because they are wind-pollinated. While the shrubby Artemisia spp. (Sagebrushes) of the western states are valuable to various kinds of wildlife, birds and mammals appear to make little use of the herbaceous Artemisia spp. that occur in the Midwest and NE states. The slightly aromatic foliage of Mugwort is bitter-tasting and toxic, containing cinerole and thujone. This latter substance is a neurotoxin. While Mugwort has been used in herbal medicine in the past, it can cause a variety of neurological problems and adverse reactions. [图片]Photographic Location: Along the edge of a prairie restoration at Meadowbrook Park in Urbana, Illinois. Comments: Mugwort is one of the introduced Artemisia spp. and rather nondescript in appearance. While significantly lobed, its leaves are usually broader than other Artemisia spp. and more tolerant of shade. These leaves are bicolored: green and largely hairless on the upper surface, but finely pubescent and powdery white underneath, whereas other Artemisia spp. tend to be either hairy or glabrous on both sides and less bicolored. Some Artemisia spp. have hairy or pubescent stems, while the stems of Mugwort are largely hairless (except for the upper flowering stems). Mugwort is unusual in having recurved lobes on its central disk florets – other Artemisia spp. usually have erect or spreading lobes on their disk florets. Because these florets are quite small in size, this can be difficult to observe without magnification from a hand or eye lens.

...显示更多

0

文章

😀 😁 😂 😄 😆 😉 😊 😋 😎 😍 😘 🙂 😐 😏 😣 😯 😪 😫 😌 😜 😒 😔 😖 😤 😭 😱 😳 😵 😠

* 仅支持 .JPG .JPEG .PNG .GIF

* 图片尺寸不得小于300*300px

Miss Chen

2018年07月24日

Description: This plant is a summer annual about 3-6' tall; it is more or less erect and branches regularly. The light green stems are angular-terete, ridged, and hairless; the secondary stems are ascending or spreading. The alternate leaves are up to 6" long and 4" across, becoming smaller as they ascend the stems. They are green and hairless. Each leaf is pinnately divided (double or triple) into slender lobes that are narrowly lanceolate or oblong-lanceolate; some of these lobes are cleft or toothed along their margins. The lower leaves have petioles, while the upper leaves are sessile. The upper stems terminate in floral panicles up to 1½' long and half as much across. The panicles are abundantly branched, each branch consisting of a raceme of small drooping flowerheads. about 1-2 mm. across (1/8" or less). Each flowerhead is about 2 mm. across (1/8" or less); it has many tiny disk florets. At the base of each flowerhead, there are 6 oblong bracts that are dark green. The blooming period occurs from late summer into the fall. There is no floral scent, although the foliage has a sweet fruity fragrance. Pollination is by wind. Upon maturity, each floret is replaced by a single achene. These achenes are small enough to be carried aloft by the wind, even though they lack tufts of hair. The root system consists of a branching taproot. This plant reproduces by reseeding itself. Cultivation: The preference is full or partial sun, moist to mesic conditions, and fertile loamy soil with high nitrogen content. This plant also adapts to gravelly and sandy soil. Range & Habitat: Annual Wormwood is occasional throughout Illinois (see Distribution Map). It was introduced from Eurasia as a medicinal herb. Escaped plants usually don't persist in a given location. Habitats include woodland borders, low-lying areas along rivers and ponds, fields, vacant lots, edges of yards, fence rows, gardens, back alleys in older cities, and areas along railroads and roadsides. Disturbed habitats are preferred. Annual Wormwood is still cultivated occasionally in gardens. [图片]Faunal Associations: The wind-pollinated florets attract few insects, while the seeds are too small to be of much value to birds. Mammalian herbivores usually avoid consumption of Artemisia spp. (Wormwoods) because of the bitter compounds and mild to moderate toxicity of their foliage. Photographic Location: Along a fence row in Urbana, Illinois. The flowerheads in the upper photograph are still in the bud stage. Comments: Another common name for this plant is 'Sweet Annie.' Annual Wormwood is a non-woody summer annual that has hairless foliage with a sweet fruity fragrance. Other Artemisia spp. (Wormwoods) are often herbaceous biennials or woody perennials with hairy foliage (at least on the underside of their leaves). Many of these species have foliage with a smoky fragrance that resembles the seasoning 'Sage.' Annual Wormwood differs from a similar species, Artemisia biennis (Biennial Wormwood), by its double or triple pinnate leaves and spreading floral panicles. The latter species has simple pinnate leaves and a more spike-like inflorescence. The foliage of Annual Wormwood contains a chemical that is useful in the treatment of malaria.

...显示更多

0

文章

😀 😁 😂 😄 😆 😉 😊 😋 😎 😍 😘 🙂 😐 😏 😣 😯 😪 😫 😌 😜 😒 😔 😖 😤 😭 😱 😳 😵 😠

* 仅支持 .JPG .JPEG .PNG .GIF

* 图片尺寸不得小于300*300px

Miss Chen

2018年07月23日

Banana peppers (Capsicum annuum) come in two main varieties, the hot banana pepper and the mild sweet banana pepper. Both of these annual pepper varieties grow during the hot, frost-free days of summer in a sunny garden bed. Allowing them to fully ripen on the plant to the desired stage gives you some control over both the flavor and the color of the mature peppers. Days to Harvest [图片]Banana peppers take about 70 to 75 days to reach their mature size from the time they germinate. Cultural conditions can affect the length of the growing season. Cool weather, less-than-optimum soil and drought stress can all slow growth so it takes longer for the peppers to mature. Use the average days to maturity as a guideline for when to begin checking your peppers for ripeness, because some peppers may also mature more quickly while others on the same plant may need more time. Hot Banana Types [图片]Hot banana peppers reach about 6 inches long and 1 1/2 inches wide at maturity. Harvest at any time after the peppers turn yellow and they snap easily from the stem. The flavor is milder at the yellow stage. The peppers develop more heat as they mature to red. If you dry peppers after harvest, pick them once they turn bright red. Yellow peppers are more suitable for fresh use or pickling. Sweet Banana Types [图片]Sweet banana peppers can mature at a smaller size than the hot varieties, usually only growing 4 to 6 inches long and 1 1/2 inches in diameter. Like hot banana peppers, you can harvest sweet bananas at any time after they reach their full size and become completely yellow, but waiting until they turn completely red results in a sweeter pepper. Sweet banana peppers don't snap as easily from the stem at maturity as the hot varieties. Harvest Method [图片]Harvest peppers after the morning dew has dried on the plants, because handling wet plants can spread disease pathogens. Pick hot banana peppers by grasping the pepper at the base of the stem where it attaches to the fruit and snapping the stem. Support the main plant with your other hand so you don't damage it. For sweet banana peppers, wipe a pair of shears with a cloth soaked in rubbing alcohol to disinfect them. Cut through the stem, leaving 1/4 to 1/2 inch of the stem attached to the fruit. Check the plants daily after they begin to ripen, because the peppers will develop at different rates and the plants will continue to flower and set new fruits.

...显示更多

0

2

0

文章

😀 😁 😂 😄 😆 😉 😊 😋 😎 😍 😘 🙂 😐 😏 😣 😯 😪 😫 😌 😜 😒 😔 😖 😤 😭 😱 😳 😵 😠

* 仅支持 .JPG .JPEG .PNG .GIF

* 图片尺寸不得小于300*300px

Miss Chen

2018年07月23日

Brussels sprouts (Brassica oleracea variation gemmifera) are hardy biennial plants that typically are grown as annuals and do well in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 2 through 10. Usually reaching 2 to 3 feet tall, the cool-weather plants thrive in air temperatures ranging from 45 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit. They can withstand frost, which reportedly makes the flavor of their vegetable portions -- sprouts -- even sweeter. The sprouts, which resemble tiny cabbages, usually take 80 to 100 days to mature. Harvest them when they are about 1 inch in diameter. Growing the Plants from Seeds [图片]Brussels sprout seeds should be started indoors about six to eight weeks before the area's average last frost date. Sow the seeds 1/2 inch deep and 2 inches apart in potting mix or nutrient-rich soil. The seedlings are ready to be transplanted once they have four or five leaves -- usually within four to six weeks. Selecting and Preparing a Planting Area [图片]Choose an outdoor planting area that gets at least six hours of sunlight daily; more than six hours per day is better. The site's soil should be well-drained and moist, with a pH level of 5.5 to 6.8 to maximize growth and prevent club root disease, a fungal infection that causes the leaves to wilt and turn yellow. Mix a time-released vegetable fertilizer into the soil before either transplanting seedlings or sowing seeds directly into the garden. Use a balanced fertilizer, such as a 13-13-13 blend, at a general rate of 1 tablespoon for every 1 square foot of planting area. Planting Procedure [图片]Planting brussels sprout seedlings 18 to 24 inches apart allows them space to mature. Plant them slightly deeper in the garden's soil than they were in their containers' soil, with their lowest leaves right above soil level. After planting, tamp the soil around each plant, and water the soil thoroughly. A 2- to 3-inch-thick layer of hardwood mulch on the soil surface, but not touching the plants, helps keep the soil moist and cool. Caring for the Plants [图片]Keeping the soil evenly moist but not waterlogged during the growing season is important. The plants require 1 to 1 1/2 inches of water weekly from rainfall and/or supplemental watering. Fertilize the plants by side-dressing them once when they are 1 foot tall. In order to do so, create a narrow, 1- to 2-inch deep furrow along the row of plants just beyond their widest branches. After spreading 1 tablespoon of ammonium nitrate in every 20 feet of the furrow, cover the furrow with soil. Pruning the Plants and Handling Pests [图片]Additional care for brussels sprouts includes pruning each plant's lowest six to eight leaves when the plant's stalk starts developing sprouts and removing each plant's growing tip about three weeks before you plan to harvest the sprouts. Watch for pests such as cabbage aphids and cabbage worms. Cabbage aphids are small, greenish-gray insects with a white covering, and wetting plants with a strong spray of water typically removes them. Cabbage worms -- green worms with a yellow stripe -- can be handpicked off plants.

...显示更多

0

2

0

文章

😀 😁 😂 😄 😆 😉 😊 😋 😎 😍 😘 🙂 😐 😏 😣 😯 😪 😫 😌 😜 😒 😔 😖 😤 😭 😱 😳 😵 😠

* 仅支持 .JPG .JPEG .PNG .GIF

* 图片尺寸不得小于300*300px

Miss Chen

2018年07月23日

Historically, potatoes have only been grown on farms and in vegetable gardens with lots of space. However, even those people in the smallest of urban lots can grow healthy and tasty potatoes with the garbage bag method. [图片]Step 1 Chit your potatoes, which means preparing them for planting. You can use potatoes from your pantry, even if they have already sprouted. Cut potatoes into at least two pieces, making sure that there is at least two eyes in each piece. A potato eye is an indentation or spot where a growing sprout will form. Leave potato pieces out to dry on a paper towel for at least 24 hours. Step 2 Prepare your soil mixture. The soil mixture must be light and airy to allow potato roots and shoots to form and grow easily. Mix potting soil with peat moss, vermiculite or chopped dead leaves, or a mixture of all of them. Fill a garbage bag 4 inches full of the soil mixture. Roll the edges of the garbage bag down to within 2 inches of the top of the soil layer. Punch holes into the garbage bag below the soil level to allow drainage. Step 3 Plant your potatoes. Plant five potato chits per garbage bag, one in the center and four in a circle near the outside edge of the garbage bag. Plant potato chits deep enough to just be barely covered with soil. Water thoroughly. Step 4 Maintain your potatoes. First, the potato chits will grow roots. This is a time when there will be little visible activity. Then the chits will send up sprouts. When the sprouts get 4 inches high, add soil mixture to the garbage bag until the shoot is almost completely covered again. Roll out the edges of the garbage bag to keep up with the soil being added. Water thoroughly. Continue to add soil mixture as the shoot grows to encourage it to continue to grow upwards. Water the bags regularly so that the soil does not dry out. When the shoots have reached the top of the garbage bag, stop adding soil and allow them to bloom and mature. [图片]Step 5 Harvest your potatoes. When the potato plant has withered and the leaves have turned brown, it's time to harvest the potatoes. Dump out or cut open the garbage bag and pull the potatoes off of the underground shoots. Brush off as much dirt as possible but do not wash. Allow skins to firm up in open air out of sunlight for at least two days. Wash potatoes only when ready to use to prolong the storage life.

...显示更多

0

3

0

文章

😀 😁 😂 😄 😆 😉 😊 😋 😎 😍 😘 🙂 😐 😏 😣 😯 😪 😫 😌 😜 😒 😔 😖 😤 😭 😱 😳 😵 😠

* 仅支持 .JPG .JPEG .PNG .GIF

* 图片尺寸不得小于300*300px

Miss Chen

2018年07月23日

If you have an established asparagus bed that's performing poorly due to overcrowding and you're looking for an intensive workout, look no further than dividing and transplanting the clumps. About the only thing that makes this job pleasant is that it's done during the cooler weather of fall, winter, or early spring, providing that the ground isn't frozen. Although the project involves preparing a site -- and sweating -- the end reward is a bountiful harvest of the long, green spears for years to come. [图片]When to Divide and Transplant Native to the Mediterranean and a herbaceous perennial in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 2 through 8, asparagus (Asparagus officinalis) plants can produce their edible spears for up to 50 years if properly maintained. Over time, the clumps grow so thick that production decreases or stops, and the plants require thinning and transplanting. Established plants grow into clumps approximately 2 1/2 feet wide, so dividing them produces quite a few new transplants. Expect the loss of some crowns, though, due to unavoidable digging damage. For the best transplant success, wait for the plants to go dormant and naturally turn brown and die back before tackling the job. Asparagus that's divided and transplanted in fall and winter will give you an earlier harvest than plants transplanted in spring. Conquer and Divide The size of the mature clump and the soil it's growing in are the deciding factors in how difficult the dividing and transplanting job will be. Sandy soil is not as compacted as heavier soils like clay, so digging out the clump isn't as strenuous. Regardless of soil type, expect a mass of tangled roots and a bit more difficulty dividing larger, more established asparagus clumps. Using the proper tools and following a few basic steps ensure less damage to the crowns, which resemble small buds and produce the edible spears, and the pencil-sized roots you want to retain. Step 1 Inspect the asparagus clump before digging to locate the crowns in the mass of dead, brown stems and flowers. Knowing approximately where to dig helps you limit damage to the crowns and roots. Step 2 Search for the outer edge of the clump's root system using a garden fork. Poke the fork into the ground approximately 6 to 12 inches out from the mass of dead plant material, working gently around the clump to prevent excessive damage. Once you find the outer edge of the root system, use a shovel to dig all the way around the clump, creating a trench. Dig deeply enough to expose the entire root system, which is probably about the depth of the shovel's blade but could be deeper. Step 3 Continue digging under the clump to release the roots from the planting site. Try to salvage as much of the root system as possible without chopping into it or damaging the crowns. Lift the clump out of the soil using the garden fork. Step 4 If the clump doesn't come out easily using the garden fork, gently pry it out of the ground using a mattock or crowbar. Work the mattock or crowbar under the root system, prying it loose from the soil and avoiding cutting into the main portion of roots or crowns. Lift the clump from the planting site. Step 5 Rinse soil-covered roots using a garden hose. Rinsing with water causes less root damage than shaking the soil off, and you can then inspect the clump to find out where to separate it into multiple crowns. Gently pull the crowns apart, keeping their thick roots attached. You may have to sacrifice smaller crowns for larger ones when dividing a mass of intertwined roots. Planting the Transplants Asparagus is relatively forgiving of soil conditions as long as the soil is well-drained and weed-free and the bed is in a sunny location. Remember that the plants will grow in their new bed for decades, so select a site that's out of the way of foot traffic and other gardening activities. Asparagus prefers a soil pH of 6.5 to 7.5 and will perform poorly if the pH is 6.0 or below. You can test the soil before planting to determine the need for additional phosphorus and potassium and adjust the pH accordingly, or you can till a blend of 10-20-10 fertilizer into the planting site before planting the crowns. Step 1 Evenly distribute 2 pounds of 10-20-10 fertilizer granules over every 100 square feet of the new bed. Work the fertilizer into the top 6 inches of soil using a shovel or hard rake. Water the fertilizer into the soil. Step 2 Dig a trench that's no more than 6 inches deep and 12 to 18 inches wide for planting the asparagus crowns. Crowns planted too deeply have reduced yields. Step 3 Evenly distribute 2 pounds of 0-20-0 superphosphate over the bottom of the trench for every 50 feet of row. There's no need to work the product into the soil before planting the crowns, as it won't burn them. [图片]Step 4 Place the asparagus crowns faceup in the trench and gently spread out the roots. Space multiple transplants approximately 18 inches apart in rows that are 5 feet apart. Backfill the trench with soil, covering the crowns with approximately 2 inches. Keep the soil covering the crowns loose and noncompacted to encourage the emergence of spears. When planting is complete, water the bed thoroughly so the roots are saturated. If conditions are dry, add supplemental water approximately once each week.

...显示更多

0

文章

😀 😁 😂 😄 😆 😉 😊 😋 😎 😍 😘 🙂 😐 😏 😣 😯 😪 😫 😌 😜 😒 😔 😖 😤 😭 😱 😳 😵 😠

* 仅支持 .JPG .JPEG .PNG .GIF

* 图片尺寸不得小于300*300px

Miss Chen

2018年07月23日

Vidalia onions are well known for their culinary uses thanks to their unusual sweetness. This is largely the result of the locale in which they are grown--Vidalia, Georgia--an area without sulfur in the soil, which typically gives onions their pungent flavor and governs their acidity. Technically, according to government legislation, you cannot grow Vidalia onions unless you are living in a certain counties in Georgia. For that same reason, one cannot purchase Vidalia seeds. They don’t really exist. However if you were to grow onions in a low sulfur environment from Granex onion seeds, you would have your own onions completely indistinguishable from the real thing. [图片]Step 1 Begin by preparing your soil in early September. You will need to first neutralize the sulfur in the soil before you plant your seeds in order to get that characteristic sweetness that Vidalia onions are known for. You will need about 30 lbs. of powdered limestone per 100 square feet of soil. Spread the limestone over the soil and then mix it into the ground as deeply and thoroughly as you can with a hoe and shovel (or roto-tiller). Step 2 Water the soil until it’s become a muddy mess and leave it for about a month. Over time the sulfur in the soil will bind with the limestone, preventing the sulfur from being capable of being absorbed by your onions. Step 3 Dig trenches in the soil, about 3 inches deep and spaced 1 foot apart from one another. Into each trench pour granulated super phosphate, also known as banding phosphorous. This will be all the fertilizer your onions will ever need. Studies have shown that seeds that have been fertilized in this way sprout faster and produce larger onions. You should use 1 cup for every 20 feet of trench. Cover the trenches back over when you’re done. Step 4 Plant your seeds in early October, placing each seed ¼ inch deep into the soil following the lines of your buried fertilizer. Place one seed every 6 inches. Water your rows lightly once a day and you should have sprouts within a week. [图片]Step 5 Decrease your watering over the winter as your seedlings will not grow much. If you live in a tropical or sub-tropical climate the onion’s stalks will likely not wither. If they do, do not panic. The seedling is still viable and has already been germinated; it will survive the winter and continue its normal growth with the onset of spring. If you live in climates which drop below 40 degrees F, you may notice buds forming on the sides of the onion sprouts. This is a process called bolting, by which your onion is producing more onion plants. This is a good thing; the downside is that the primary onion will only grow to about half its normal size before it’s ripe for harvesting. So you end up trading size for quantity. Step 6 Watch for small flies buzzing around your onions in great quantities. This is a sign of one of the only pest problems called whitefly, also known as screwfly for the odd patterns they make in the air. The best way to get rid of them and any other possible pests is to spray your onions with a safe pesticide known as Sevin once a month. Remember that even a farm safe pesticide such as Sevin can still have negative effects if ingested, so you always want to wash you onions thoroughly after harvesting. Step 7 Begin harvesting in late summer only when the tops of the onion stalks have withered and fallen off. Simply uproot the onions with your hands, shake the dirt off and wash them well. Cut off the roots and the top inch of each onion. From here you can use them immediately in cooking or store them separately in a cool, dry, lightless environment. If you do this they can last up to 6 months before rotting.

...显示更多

0

文章

😀 😁 😂 😄 😆 😉 😊 😋 😎 😍 😘 🙂 😐 😏 😣 😯 😪 😫 😌 😜 😒 😔 😖 😤 😭 😱 😳 😵 😠

* 仅支持 .JPG .JPEG .PNG .GIF

* 图片尺寸不得小于300*300px