动态第145页 - 绿手指 - 养花技巧、花生病了怎么办、花园打理和设计

2018年08月22日

Though each daylily (Hemerocallis spp.) flower only lasts a day, you can have blooms all summer long if you plant the right type. Reblooming or everblooming varieties are repeat bloomers with little or no space of time between the flushes of bloom, so the plants stay in bloom from early summer to the beginning of fall. [图片]Stella Daylilies One the best known reblooming daylilies that provides color from late spring through fall is "Stella de Oro" (Hemerocallis x "Stella de Oro"). This variety produces 2-3/4 inch yellow-gold blooms and is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 11. The "Blackeyed Stella" (Hemerocallis "Blackeyed Stella") variety is similar, but its blooms feature a dark red eye. This cultivar is hardy in USDA zones 3 through 10. Returns Varieties The variety "Happy Returns" (Hemerocallis "Happy Returns") is a descendent of the "Stella de Oro." This everblooming daylily, which produces lemon-yellow flowers that reach 3 inches wide, is hardy in USDA zones 3 through 9. Other varieties in the "Returns" series, by the same hybridizer, provide more colors of everblooming daylilies. "Dynamite Returns" features ruffled red flowers, "Rosy Returns" reveals pink petals and "'When My Sweetheart Returns" produces pink and cream blooms. More Summer Bloomers Many other everblooming and reblooming day lilies exist. "Fairy Tale Pink" daylily (Hemerocallis x "Fairy Tale Pink") produces pale apricot-colored flowers, and "Little Grapette" dwarf daylily (Hemerocallis x "Little Grapette") blooms dark purple. Both varieties rebloom throughout the summer and are hardy in USDA zones 4 through 11. Some daylilies with double flowers also reliably rebloom, like "Night Embers" (Hemerocallis x "Night Embers"). This variety blooms dark red from early summer until frost and is hardy in USDA zones 5 through 9. Extending Bloom Time Deadhead daylilies regularly to encourage more flowers. Remove spent blooms every day, and cut the flowering stem back to the ground after all blooms disappear. Because daylilies have thick stems, the best way to deadhead them without breaking off any surrounding blooms is to use sharp scissors or pruners. Disinfect cutting tools before use by soaking them in a mixture of 1 part bleach to 3 parts water, then rising in clean water. [图片]Dividing plants every three to five years also encourages prolific flowering. Early spring or right after flowering are the best times to divide, but it can be done throughout the growing season. To divide plants, lift the entire clump with a gardening fork and use the fork or your hands to divide it into sections. Daylily clumps contain individual plants with a fan-shaped group of leaves attached to roots. When you divide, leave at least four fans in each division. Re-plant the new clumps at the same level they were originally growing, and water thoroughly.

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Miss Chen

2018年08月22日

In temperate areas of the U.S., Spanish moss, also known as Tillandsia usneoide, can be grown outdoor on oak and cypress trees without fear of losing it to killing freezes. Northerners can enjoy it, too, since this tough and determined plant will resurrect when sustained temperatures rise above about 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Whether you're pulling Spanish moss from your own tree to propagate it elsewhere or receiving it as an ordered product, Tillandsia usneoides transplants readily and easily. This unusual, decorative epiphyte is adaptable, durable, undemanding and care- and maintenance-free once established. You'll soon have wispy festoons of Spanish moss waving gently in soft summer breezes. [图片]Step 1 Remove the Spanish moss from its package immediately upon receipt. Don't allow it to remain unpacked for more than one to two days. Step 2 Spread the Spanish moss on the lawn in the shade, using a grass rake for large quantities. Give the mass a gentle spraying with a garden hose to wet it. The strands are loosely interwoven and have a lot of space between them. It's akin to watering a pile of fishing net, but the strands immediately begin absorbing the water. Spanish moss also takes a significant amount of its moisture directly from the air around it. You're just giving it a bit of a jump start, and more water won't be needed once the plant is situated. Allow it to breathe two hours as it rehydrates itself. Step 3 Gather the Spanish moss. Place it in a 5-gallon bucket or, if there is a lot of it, put it in a wheelbarrow. Transport to the tree for transplant. Choose spots among tree limbs to transplant the Spanish moss, which needs only one branch to secure itself to. Forks in limbs or large twigs are excellent anchors. The best locations are lower and mid-level branches near the outer edges of the canopy in full or partial sun. Step 4 Grab a double handful of the Spanish moss. Separate the strands gently with your fingers. Pull a wad of it from the mass. Don't worry about breaking the strands, which will regenerate in no time. Stuff the wad into the fork of a branch, or hang long strands over it. The Spanish moss will cling to imperfections on the rough bark. It's a lot like decorating a Christmas tree with tinsel. [图片]Step 5 Stick Spanish moss in higher limbs, using a rake, pole saw or paint roller extension pole. Some like to park a pickup truck under the tree and stand in its bed for this task. Step 6 Tie a little bit of cotton twine around the Spanish moss if you're worried about it falling out of the tree. Step 7 Spray the transplant with the hose to help situate it in its new home. Step 8 Pick moss up from the ground and quickly place it back in its perch if it happens to fall out of the tree, even during the winter. It will be fine.

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Miss Chen

2018年08月22日

When you think of gorgeous plants to nurture throughout the growing season, you probably picture flowering plants. Coleus (Solenostemon spp. or Plectranthus spp.), however, are instead grown for their striking foliage, which helps make a bold garden statement. They are tender perennials, typically grown as annuals outside their native Southeast Asia. [图片]Coleus Hardiness Coleus are in danger of cold damage once the temperature drops to 30 degrees Fahrenheit. Anything below 25 degrees will kill the plant. This means that they are hardy only in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 13, though they may survive in sheltered locations protected from frost in USDA zone 9b. In colder zones, they are grown as annuals or as houseplants. Preferred Conditions Coleus can survive in sun or shade, but different cultivars have different preferences. Full sun bleaches color out of the leaves of shade-loving coleus, and full shade makes the colors on sun-tolerant cultivars more subdued. Cultivars that grow well in shade include "Black Magic," "'Fishnet Stockings" and "Sunset." Cultivars that prefer sunny conditions include "Alabama Sunset," "Pineapple" and "Solar Shadow." Coleus will grow in a wide range of soil conditions, including clay, sand, loam and acidic soils. However, soils high in organic matter are best, and well-drained soil is essential. Coleus grown in soggy soils have stunted growth and the leaves will turn muddy, scorched-looking and fall off the plant. Coleus shouldn't be allowed to dry out completely, though. For the first seven to 10 days after planting, water to keep the soil around the root ball moist. After that, water deeply when the top 1 inch of soil dries out. Planting Coleus In USDA zones 10 through 13, coleus can be planted outdoors year-round. When growing coleus as an annual in zone 9 or below, plant outside in the spring after all danger of frost has passed. They can be started indoors from seed, planting eight to 10 weeks before the last frost date in your area. Coleus seeds germinate in soil temperatures 70 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit, and take seven to 14 days to sprout. The seeds need light to germinate, so don't cover them with potting mix. When you move the plants outdoors, space them 12 to 36 inches apart, depending on the cultivar's mature size; check plant tags before planting to make sure you're giving each plant enough room. Ongoing Care Keep coleus plants bushy and compact by pinching off the flowers as they develop. Coleus that are grown as perennials in warm climate zones have a tendency to become leggy, so be sure to pinch-back the tips of the plants when the branches start to get too long. Compact varieties like the "Wizard" series and the cultivar "Duckfoot" require little or no pinching to maintain an attractive bushy form. Where they are hardy, coleus can live for years, but even with regular pinching and pruning they may become unattractive and leggy after a few years. You can replace unattractive plants by taking stem cuttings. Cut a section of young stem at least 2 inches long at any time of the year, and peel off the lowest leaves. Stick the cutting in water, and pot it when it starts to grow roots. [图片]Coleus in Containers Coleus grown in containers can be placed indoors or out. In zones where coleus are not hardy, you can set them outside after the last spring frost and move them indoors before the first autumn frost to keep the plants alive. Like coleus grown in the ground, container coleus require well-drained soil. Since containers dry out more quickly than garden beds, coleus in containers require more frequent watering. When grown as a houseplant, place coleus in a warm location with bright light. Fertilizer Tips Coleus have low fertilizer requirements. For in-ground plants, fertilize every four weeks starting in early summer to encourage mid-summer growth. Three fertilizer applications will be enough for plants grown as annuals, but perennials can be fertilized into early fall when the temperatures start to cool. Use a liquid fertilizer at half the usual strength. For example, mix a concentrated liquid fertilizer with an N-P-K ratio of 12-4-8 at a ratio of 1 teaspoon fertilizer per 1 gallon of water. This will cover 20 square feet of garden space. When fertilizing container plants, use the same concentrated liquid fertilizer as for in-ground coleus. Mix 1/2 teaspoon with 1 gallon of water and apply it to the potting soil in place of a regular watering every two weeks during the growing season.

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Miss Chen

2018年08月21日

The curious little resurrection fern, Polypodium polypodioides, may very well be the perfect plant for the unfortunately black-thumbed gardener -- or the incredibly lazy one. If there's a truly care- and maintenance-free living plant, this is it. The strange little fern virtually laughs thirst in the face and defies death as it takes even the severest of droughts easily in its stride. The resurrection fern simply takes a nap until conditions become more favorable. When rains return, the seemingly dead plant miraculously returns to life and its former beauty within a few hours. Resurrection ferns are readily available from mail order, online and brick-and-mortar plant retailers. If you live near a wooded area within this common little epiphyte's natural range, you can easily find fallen branches decorated with them just about anywhere on the shady forest floor. [图片]Step 1 Remove the purchased resurrection fern carefully from its bag or packaging. Set it in a shallow container out of direct sunlight. Water all of its surfaces generously to the point of runoff with a repurposed plastic spray bottle. Within minutes, the plant will begin to unfurl its crumpled brown fronds and show signs of greening up. Step 2 Fill a 4- or 6-inch pot with orchid growing medium if you wish to keep your resurrection fern as a houseplant. Set the pot in a shallow container of water until the surface feels moist. Remove it from the water and allow it to drain for about 15 minutes. Place the fern on top of the medium and set it anywhere out of direct sunlight. Step 3 Spritz the resurrection fern with water and leave it alone. It doesn't need any fertilizer or further care. Step 4 Choose a tree in your yard to which to secure the resurrection fern if you would rather grow it outdoors. While any tree will do, these plants seem to have an affinity for pecan and live oak. Carefully press one or more of the reviving fern's long, thin rhizomes into crevices in the bark of the tree's branch or trunk. Use lightweight wire to anchor the fern, if you wish. [图片]Step 5 Collect a fallen branch with resurrection fern growing on it and haul it home to your garden if you'd rather harvest free plants. Prop one end of the limb against the trunk of one of your trees. Use some lightweight wire to secure the branch into place. Eventually, the fern will seed some of its spores right onto your living tree and propagate itself prolifically. Step 6 Place the branch with resurrection ferns in any shady or partially shaded garden spot you wish, but these epiphytes do prefer to reside in and on living trees. Step 7 Water the indoor or outdoor resurrection fern again when it begins to turn brown or look dry if you prefer to keep the plant fresh and green. Otherwise, withhold water and allow it to appear to die. Water it when you want to revive it.

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Miss Chen

2018年08月21日

Reaching heights of up to 6 feet tall and producing curling, feathery fronds, ostrich fern (Matteuccia struthiopteris) is a perennial species that thrives in cool, shaded areas. It requires minimal maintenance and care, and is rarely bothered by pests or diseases. The fern often spreads, forming dense colonies when planted in ideal growing conditions. [图片]Choose a Shady Site Ostrich fern is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 7, where it prefers partial and full shade. A wooded area, the north side of a building or a shady riverbank or pond side are ideal locations for the plant. It does best in naturally cool climates and suffers when grown in humid, southern U.S. regions. Because each ostrich fern can grow 5 to 8 feet wide, provide at least 5 feet of space between each fern and other plants. Transplant an ostrich fern by digging it up carefully in early spring, leaving plenty of room around its crown -- where its above-ground and below-ground parts join -- to avoid disturbing its roots. Replant the fern so that soil completely encloses its root ball, but don't place the fern so deeply that soil gets in its center, from which its fronds or stems grow; soil in that location may cause rot. Add Organic Material to Soil Ostrich fern tolerates a wide variety of soil types, though it looks its best in well-draining soil generously enhanced with organic matter. If your location has light, sandy soil or heavy clay soil, mix a 2-inch-thick layer of organic material, such as composted pine bark, with the top 10 inches of the soil before planting. Rather than just mixing the organic matter into each planting hole, mix the material into the whole planting bed so that water doesn't fill the hole and cause root damage to the plants. Water Regularly Water frequently -- at least once each week unless it rains -- to keep each ostrich fern's soil moist at all times. Do not allow the soil to dry out completely; err on the side of too wet rather than too dry because ostrich fern tolerates wet soil. Applying a 2- to 3-inch-thick layer of organic matter such as leaves or pine straw on the soil surface -- but not touching the plants -- in spring and fall helps retain moisture in the soil. In a wooded area, the ferns receive some natural mulch from fallen leaves and evergreen needles. [图片]Fertilize Sparingly Ferns are sensitive to fertilizer, though they can benefit from a light application in spring, right after their new fronds begin to emerge. Use a controlled-release, granular, 14-14-14 fertilizer, spreading 1/8 cup of it uniformly on the soil surface per 10 square feet, avoiding getting it on the ferns and other plants. Till it into the top 1/2 to 1 inch of the soil very lightly if you can avoid damaging the ferns' roots or rhizomes. Store unused fertilizer in a cool, dry place away from children and pets.

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Miss Chen

2018年08月21日

The presence of a wide variety of insects in gardens is a normal and expected aspect of gardening. There are a wide range of control options to control pests such as ticks, fleas and mosquitoes. This includes the more environmentally friendly options such as using plants and herbs with natural insect repellent properties. Using herbs in gardens is not only a better alternative for harmful chemicals but also provides fresh culinary herbs for use in the kitchen. Insecticides made with the extracts of these herbs kill a number of pests. [图片]Rue Rue (Ruta graveolens) is an evergreen herb with metallic blue, feathery foliage. The herb has disinfectant and insecticidal properties for getting rid of flies, mosquitoes and a number of other insects naturally. Rubbing the herbs over pets keeps away the fleas. Planting rue with other plants keeps beetles and slugs from the garden. The semi-woody plant grows to a full height of about 2 1/2 feet. Rue foliage has a medicinal and bitter smell upon crushing or cutting. The herb blooms with small, four petaled flowers during summer. Rue is easy to grow from seed and thrives in a range of soil types including poor soil. You also can grow the herb as an indoor plant. Wormwood Wormwood (Artemesia absinthium) is among the bitter herbs used for centuries to repel and deter insects including ticks, flies and moths. Wormwood grows to a mature height of about 3 feet and has gray-green foliage. The plant is covered with fine hair and blooms with yellow flowers during summer. Wormwood is widely used in traditional medicine both by itself or in combination with other herbs to relieve digestive and gallbladder disorders. Wormwood, also referred to as artemesia, grows naturally in the temperate and mild climates. The foliage of wormwood is used for making an herbal tea. [图片]Mint Mint (Mentha) is among the most recognized and most used herbs in the kitchen, which also keep away a wide range of insects with its strong scent. Mint is especially effective for deterring beetles and fleas. Keeping sachets of dried mint in closets keeps out moths and placing fresh mint in pantries helps deter ants. Rubbing the herbs over the neck, face and hands repels mosquitoes, and rubbing the herb over pets and mouths of horses and cows keeps them free from flies. Planting mint with cabbage and tomatoes gets rid of aphids, cabbage white butterflies and white flies.

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Miss Chen

2018年08月21日

Few perennials can top the daylily (Hemerocallis spp.) for colorful flowers that keep coming for several weeks during spring and summer. Available in thousands of cultivars with different features, the daylily gets its name from its characteristic of keeping each flower open for only one day. Although daylilies are usually simple to grow, it can be discouraging to see their leaves begin turning yellow, a situation that can result from a number of problems. A Natural Change [图片]Yellowing in daylilies at the end of their growing season is part of their annual cycle. Most daylilies grow as frost-hardy perennials in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 2 through 10, with some variation among cultivars. They usually bloom from spring into summer, with the exact timing differing among the many varieties. When fall arrives and temperatures cool, daylily plants stop growing and their leaves start to turn yellow as photosynthesis -- the plants' manufacture of food -- stops. By late fall, the yellow leaves turn brown then gradually dry, collapsing around the plants' bases. In warm-winter areas, daylilies' leaves may undergo this change a bit later, in early winter, but eventually the plants become dormant in those regions, with new growth appearing the following spring. Improper Water Amount [图片]Daylilies are simple to care for once established, but young plants need regular moisture to put out good root systems that sustain growth. If newly planted daylilies develop yellow leaves that start turning brown, then the problem could be too little water. During the growing season, generally spring through early fall, daylilies' soil should not be allowed to dry out completely. For the best results, ensure the plants get about 1 inch of water weekly, including rain. Too much water -- either from constant rain or overwatering -- can promote root rot. Roots become brown and slimy instead of being white and firm, and they're unable to take up soil nutrients, causing wilting and yellowing of leaves. Water daylilies only when their top 1 inch of soil feels dry to your fingertip, and don't plant them in a low spot that tends to stay wet for long periods. Disease Problems [图片]Daylilies are susceptible to two potentially serious diseases, which are called leaf streak and daylily rust and are caused by fungal organisms. As its name suggests, leaf streak results in long, yellow streaks on leaves, starting at leaf tips and with leaves eventually turning brown and dying. Daylily rust causes similar changes, along with orange spots on leaf undersides. Those problems can be prevented by only purchasing cultivars labeled as resistant to those diseases. Also, use a soaker hose or drip irrigation when watering daylilies to keep their foliage dry, space the plants at least 2 to 3 feet apart so their foliage doesn't touch and so their air circulation is good, and clear away plant debris often. You can also spray infected plants with a fungicide containing a chemical called myclobutanil, diluted at a rate of 1/2 fluid ounce per 1 gallon of water; use it every two weeks three or four times for leaf-streak infected plants, and use it every two weeks as needed for daylily rust-infected plants, but check your fungicide product's label for its specific directions. Prepare and spray the mixture only on a windless day, and wear goggles, a hat, a dust mask, and gloves and other clothing to cover your skin. Pest Infestations [图片]Although daylilies are generally resistant to most pests, occasionally an infestation of a sucking insect may cause the plants' leaves to yellow. For example, thrips, which are 1/8th-inch-long, winged pests, can cause silver-to-yellow speckles on leaves. Aphids or mites also infest the plants, causing leaves to yellow and become deformed. Aphids are tiny, greenish insects while mites are not visible to the naked eye but produce weblike coverings that can be seen without a microscope on leaves. If you want to control thrips, aphids and mites, spray affected plants with insecticidal soap diluted at a rate of 5 tablespoons per 1 gallon of water. Repeat the application every two weeks as needed. Prepare and spray the solution on only a windless day when the temperature is below 90 degrees Fahrenheit, and wear protective clothing.

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Miss Chen

2018年08月21日

Hibiscus (Hibiscus spp.) plants produce large, often colorful, flowers during the summer. The hardy hibiscus varieties, such as rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 9. Tropical varieties, like Chinese hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), grow in USDA zones 9 through 11. Both hardy and tropical hibiscuses can suffer from yellow leaves and overall decline. The symptoms, causes and treatments are similar for both types of hibiscus. [图片]Winter Leaf Drop Tropical hibiscus varieties grown outdoors in summer but overwintered inside tend to suffer leaf yellowing, drop and dieback in the days following the move. It's difficult to supply a tropical hibiscus with enough light indoors, which causes further yellowing beyond the initial shock of relocation. Remove the leaves as they yellow if you want to try and keep the plant active during the winter. North Dakota State University Extension suggests placing the plant under bright artificial lighting for 13 hours each day, when brought inside during the winter months. You can also allow the plant to go dormant during winter. Place the plant in a dark area at around 40 to 50 degrees Fahrenheit and allow all the leaves to yellow and fall off before cutting the plant back to 6 inches tall. In spring, resume watering and place the plant in a sunny spot to encourage a fresh flush of healthy, green growth. Cultural Concerns Wet, poorly drained soil can cause root rots and general leaf yellowing. Grow potted hibiscus in containers with bottom drainage holes so the soil doesn't stay soggy. Plant garden hibiscus in well-draining soil and avoid overwatering and waterlogged soil. Nutrient deficiencies can also cause yellowing foliage, especially a lack of nitrogen in the soil. Water potted hibiscus with a soluble, all-purpose fertilizer every two weeks, such as a 1/2 teaspoon of 24-8-16 all-purpose blend mixed with 1 quart of water. For garden plants, sprinkling 1 tablespoon of a 12-4-8 or similar blend over every 1 square foot of garden at eight-week intervals provides enough nutrients. Fertilize hibiscus plants only when they are actively growing in spring and summer. [图片]Blights Both tropical and hardy hibiscus varieties can develop yellow leaves from a botrytis blight infection. This fungal disease may also cause spotting and discoloration on flowers or show as gray masses of mold on leaf, bud and stem surfaces. Overly wet soil and poor air circulation are the main causes. Remove affected leaves, stems and flowers with shears, wiping the shears with an isopropyl alcohol-soaked rag after each cut to destroy any fungal spores. Avoid overhead watering and keep the soil moist but not soggy. Leaf Spot Diseases Yellow spots on leaf surfaces may indicate a fungal leaf spot diseases. The shape and size of the spots varies, but most leaf spot diseases aren't fatal and they rarely cause long-term damage. Hibiscus plants don't require fungicide treatments for leaf spots. Instead, remove badly affected leaves and clean up fallen leaves and plant debris from around the base of the plant. Watering early in the day and keeping the foliage dry further prevents leaf spot problems.

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Miss Chen

2018年08月20日

Bird of paradise is the common name for two genera: Strelitzia and Caesaplinia. Both are tropical, drought-tolerant plants with bright, hot-colored blooms. They all work well as borders or specimen plantings. Genera [图片]Typical orange bird of paradise (Strelitzia reginae) bloom Strelitzia are clumping or tree-forming evergreen perennials with long leaves resembling banana tree leaves. The blossoms resemble tropical birds in flight. Caesalpinia (also dwarf poinciana) are evergreen or deciduous desert-adapted trees or shrubs with small, oval leaves and brightly-colored clusters of flowers. Species [图片]Strelitzia alba, the white bird of paradise The orange bird of paradise (Strelitzia reginae) is orange-blooming with clumping leaves that shoot 3 to 5 feet from the crown. White (Strelitzia alba) and giant (Strelitzia nicholai) bird of paradise bloom white. The white forms a tree 18 feet tall and the giant 30 feet tall. The red bird of paradise (Caesalpinia pulcherrima) and yellow (Caesalpinia gilliesii) have the same size and shape, but the yellow-blossoming species is hardier. Mexican bird of paradise (Caesalpinia mexicana) blooms sulfur yellow with a strong fragrance. Cultivars [图片]Strelitzia reginae var. Mandelas’s Gold, with yellow blooms instead of orange The Juncea bird of paradise (Strelitzia reginae var. juncea) is similar to the orange species, but the blooms are smaller. Mandelas's Gold produces yellow blossoms instead of the typical orange. Dwarf bird of paradise such as humilis and pygmaea only grow 18 to 20 inches tall. Caesalpinia pulcherrima phoenix is a red bird of paradise but blooms gold.

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Miss Chen

2018年08月20日

Autumn fern (Dryopteris erythrosora) earns its common name from the color -- not the timing -- of its emerging fronds. As new fiddleheads unfurl in spring, the leaves display shades of copper and bronze with hints of salmon, rose and purple before maturing to glossy green in summer. Sporadic flushes of new growth through the growing season keep autumnal colors going. In cool climates, the leaves take on a slight russet-brown, but nothing that compares to spring. Low-maintenance and easy-care, autumn fern is a shade gardener's friend. [图片]Site and Soil Autumn fern is a woodland plant native to full and partial shade, protected from intense afternoon sun. Maturing at 18 inches tall and 24 inches wide, it will flourish beneath trees with high, open shade and well-drained, loamy, humus-rich soil. All soil types, from sand to clay, suit adaptable autumn fern, but it will prefer a pH slightly below 7.0. Think of moisture-retentive woodland soil, rich with leaf mold and other organic matter, as a guide for your garden. If your garden lacks organic matter, work a 4-inch layer of compost or fine pine bark into the soil's upper 4 to 6 inches before planting autumn fern. Water and Nutrients Autumn fern prefers consistently moist soil, but doesn't tolerate waterlogged conditions. Once established, the slow-growing plant withstands periods of relative dryness better than many ferns, but it turns pale and wilts when water-stressed. Supplement natural rainfall, as needed, to keep the soil moist. The more sun the plant gets, the more water it needs. Planted in rich, loamy soil, autumn fern doesn't require fertilizer. Like other woodland ferns, it's sensitive and easily burned by chemical fertilizers. Natural decomposition from leaves and a 1- to 2-inch layer of compost spread once a year are all it needs. [图片]Pruning, Pests and Disease In frost-free climates, autumn fern is evergreen. In cool-climate gardens, it dies back slowly with semi-evergreen growth at the crown. Leave the fronds intact over winter, then remove the dead or winter-worn foliage in spring. This is easily done by hand, which protects emerging fiddleheads and surface roots from accidental pruning injuries. When clipping, use shears that have been wiped with a cloth soaked in rubbing alcohol. This helps prevent the spread of disease. Autumn fern has no significant problems with insect pests or disease. The fern is sensitive to pesticides, so good sanitation and proper care are key. Slugs and snails often gather in shade gardens. A inverted rind of melon (Cucumis melo) makes an effective, overnight slug trap. Dispose of the melon rind and its sluggish inhabitants in the morning. Hardiness and Heaving Autumn fern grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 8. It's intolerant of hot, arid conditions in warmer Southwestern climates, but it tolerates heat and humidity in the Southeast. Named a Florida Garden Select plant by the Florida Nursery, Growers and Landscape Association, autumn fern thrives in Florida's USDA zones 8 through 11. In all climates, a mature autumn fern tends to lift slightly out of the soil from year to year. When this happens, gently pull back the soil and reposition the crown back at soil level. The annual layer of 1 to 2 inches of compost also helps prevent autumn fern from heaving.

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