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Miss Chen
2018年08月27日
Hostas (Hosta spp.) are usually prized for their foliage, but yellow and brown leaves are not the most desirable of rewards. Growing in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 8, they thrive in rich, moist soil and can tolerate full shade. Healthy hostas glow in shades of blue, green, gold and cream. Unfortunately, that fabulous foliage will fade if hostas are cared for improperly or are damaged by pests or diseases. [图片]The Root of the Problem Anything that damages the roots of hostas can cause yellow and brown leaves. The damaged roots are unable to absorb nutrients and water, and as a result, the plant suffers or even dies, depending on the extent of the damage. Although hostas prefer moist, cool soils, heavy and wet soil in spring and winter can lead to root rot -- a fungal disease that rots away the roots. Well-drained soil is a must for these plants, and pots containing hostas should have a hole in the bottom to allow for good drainage. Burrowing animals, such as voles, can also damage the roots of the plants. Voles prefer to create their tunnels under lawns, mulch and areas with loose soil, so try planting your hostas among tree roots or near other underground barriers that will naturally block tunneling animals. Let There Be Light Many home gardeners use hostas to brighten up shady corners of their gardens, but hostas are brighter when they receive some sunlight. They key here is knowing how much is too much. Some hostas are much more tolerant of direct sunlight than others. Too much hot, direct sunlight can scorch the leaves of some varieties, causing them to turn yellow and brown. Choose varieties that can withstand the sun, such as "Sun Power" hybrids. In general, home gardeners in USDA zones 6 and above should avoid planting hostas in direct sunlight, according to the Missouri Botanical Gardens website. Making sure your hostas get enough water during hot, dry periods can also help. Vexing Viruses Hostas can sometimes suffer from something called "Virus X," which causes the leaves to develop dark spots, rings, browning or twisting of the leaves. Unfortunately, there is no cure for this disease. In addition, these symptoms often mimic those of spontaneous mutations, or sports, which some home gardeners find desirable. In general, however, it's best to remove plants that suffer from these symptoms, especially if they appear all over the plant. If they appear in just one section of the plant or on only a few leaves, you can just remove those leaves. [图片]Frustrating Fungi Fungi don't just affect the roots of hosta plants. They can also damage the stems and leaf petioles. In fact, petiole rot is a common and serious affliction of hostas. When this happens, the leaves are cut off from the main stem and are unable to receive nutrients. They turn yellow and brown, and pull away easily from the plant. Southern blight, which rots the stem, and anthracnose, which usually attacks the leaves themselves, are also fungal diseases that can cause hosta foliage to turn yellow and brown. Avoid these problems as best you can by watering at the ground level, rather than from overhead, and by watering early in the morning so that the sun can dry off the leaves. Overcrowded conditions can also contribute to fungal diseases, so make sure air can circulate around your hosta plants.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月27日
Featuring clouds of tiny light blue flowers on spikes and finely dissected, fragrant, gray-green leaves, Russian sage (Perovskia atriplicifolia) works well for perennial borders, mixed borders, wildlife gardens and other landscape areas. This drought-tolerant, woody-based perennial is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 9, and grows 3 to 5 feet tall and 2 to 4 feet wide. Its two-lipped, tubular flowers appear in summer through fall. [图片]Perennial and Mixed Borders Russian sage works well as a perennial border and in mixed borders that include perennials, bulbs, shrubs, evergreens and other plants When paired with evergreens, the plant's blue flowers create an interesting color contrast. When summer's blue flowers fade, Russian sage continues to stand tall in warm climates and add vertical interest to garden beds. Standing tall is sometimes a problem for Russian sage, however, as it tends to flop over when it gets tall. To prevent this, plant supportive plants around it and make sure the sage gets full sun. Plant Russian sage toward the back of the border, where it adds height and doesn't screen smaller plants. This low-maintenance perennial tolerates dry, rocky, chalky and alkaline soil, and its salt tolerance means it grows well in coastal gardens. Prune the plants to 6 inches above the soil surface in spring, as new growth provides the best flowering. Before and after pruning Russian sage, sterilize pruning shear blades by wiping them with a cloth dipped in rubbing alcohol. Wildlife Gardens Russian sage works beautifully in informal wildlife gardens, providing a hazy background of blooms that last all summer long and well into September. This fragrant plant attracts butterflies and hummingbirds while resisting more destructive garden visitors like deer and rabbits. The fine, crowded stems of the plant offer shelter to beneficial insects as well. For a natural look, plant your Russian sage in odd-numbered groups of three, five or seven plants. If you want to add an extra burst of color, consider pairing pink flowers with the sage for an attractive contrast. Household Uses of Sage The Russian sage is a distant relative of the mint family but is not the same as the sage commonly used as a spice. There are, however, still many Russian sage uses. Though the leaves of the Russian sage plant are slightly toxic and you should not eat them, the plant's flowers are edible and have a peppery flavor. You can use the leaves for garnish or steep them in a tea that many claim eases digestive discomfort. While you can't east Russian sage leaves, you can dry them to make a fragrant potpourri. You can also dry complete stalks of the Russian sage plant for use in dried flower arrangements. [图片]Russian Sage Varieties Cultivars of Russian sage have a range of uses in gardens too. Russian sage "Little Spire" (Perovskia atriplicifolia "Little Spire") grows 1 1/2 to 2 feet tall and wide, and provides informal hedging and edging for paths. This compact plant also grows well in containers. Russian sage "Filigran" (Perovskia "Filigran") grows 2 to 4 feet tall and 2 to 3 feet wide, featuring lacy silvery foliage, which looks decorative in an ornamental border. Russian sage "Longin" (Perovskia "Longin") grows 3 to 4 feet tall and 2 to 3 feet wide, and has an upright habit, making it a useful vertical contrast to rounded, bushy plants. "Little Spire," "Filigran" and "Longin" are hardy in USDA zones 5 through 9.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月26日
Hostas (Hosta spp.), also called plantain lily, funkia or August lily are cool customers in the shade garden. These herbaceous perennials die back in fall and live through winter in a dormant state, only to grow again the following spring. Hostas have some simple fall grooming needs. If they grow in containers or gardens in warmer climates, you'll also want to tuck them in to maintain a consistent soil temperature. Hosta Notes [图片]Hostas do best in dappled shade or with two to three hours of morning sun. A well-draining, organic soil that stays moist, never soggy keeps these woodland plants growing and healthy. Garden hostas grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 8. A few extend past these limits. The old-fashioned August lily (Hosta plantanginea) grows in USDA zones 3 through 9 and Siebold's hostas (Hosta sieboldiana "Elegans") grow in USDA zones 4 through 9. Basic Trimming [图片]Trim dead leaves down to the ground in late fall to prevent crown rot and to discourage rodents and slugs from adopting the pile for winter shelter. Whenever you groom hostas, clean shears and wipe cutting surfaces, which can become pitted, with a half-and-half mixture of rubbing alcohol and water to guard against transmission of fungal infections or rots. End of Season Care [图片]When air temperatures begin to drop below 50 degrees Fahrenheit at night, the outer leaves begin to droop and leaf production in the center of each crown stops. Eventually, all of the leaves will become desiccated and drop over. It's important for your hostas to continue to receive 1 inch of water throughout the fall, but if soil deficiencies necessitate fertilizing hostas, stop feeding them in July or early August or you'll force them to continue to produce leaves. This growth will be pale and tender, making the whole plant -- including its crown and roots -- susceptible to frost damage. Wait until leaves fall over to groom hostas because they are needed after flowering to produce food for next year's growth. Preparing Container Hostas for Winter [图片]If you have the space, sink potted hosta plants into the soil to keep the soil temperature from fluctuating. If the pots cannot be buried, move the plant containers into a sheltered area once you've trimmed the plants. Put them against a wall under an overhang or in an unheated building so the pots can't collect water over winter. Mulch to Regulate Temperature [图片]In USDA zones 6 through 9 or if your hostas are in containers, mulch hostas with a 3- to 4-inch layer of pine straw to even out soil temperatures. All hostas grow and flower best when subjected to a period of freezing or near-freezing temperatures during their dormant periods. An Auburn University study found that, although the number of days or weeks varies by variety and cultivar, chilling encourages earlier emergence and better growth. Mulching keeps soil from heating and cooling each day and night, interrupting chilling periods. Mulch is not necessary in USDA zones below 6 where winter temperatures stay well below freezing for months.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月26日
Hostas are one of the most popular herbaceous perennial plants grown around the world. They are easy to look after and will tolerate shade. Pruning your hosta will keep it looking good year-round and help to reduce the chances of it being attacked by an infection. Hostas need to be planted in soil which is not going to be allowed to dry out in hot weather as they will quickly wilt when thirsty. Regular watering and a layer of mulch will help to keep them in top condition. [图片]Step 1 Prune the hosta in fall when the leaves have died back. This way the plant will have taken as much energy and nutrients as possible from the leaves for next spring. Use pruning shears to carefully cut the dead leaves back to the base of the stem. Avoid pulling leaves out using your hands as this can tear into the living tissue at the base of the plant, leaving a wound which is open to fungal infection. Step 2 Divide hostas in spring when you can clearly see where the new shoots are. Use a fork to dig the hosta out of the ground, removing as much soil from the roots as possible. Use pruning shears to remove any dead or unhealthy-looking roots. If left on the plant, this will worsen the plant's health and appearance. Use a spade to slice through the hosta root and replant the clumps at least 1 foot apart to give them space to grow. [图片]Step 3 After pruning and division, apply a layer of mulch around the plant. Mulch can be either well-rotted manure or compost and should be no more then 2 inches thick to discourage slugs from using it as a home. Mulch will feed the plant and help to keep it healthy. Mulch also keeps the soil moist in hot weather.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月26日
Azaleas, a member of the Rhododendron family, are shrubs that feature green, glossy leaves and clumps of colorful flowers--if grown under the right conditions. Once the heavy clay, alkaline Texas soil has been properly prepared to accommodate these picky bushes, the azalea has been planted in the soil properly and the appropriate spot to receive afternoon shade to protect the shrub from the Texas sun has been chosen the shrub rewards with showy flowers that require only a small amount of attention to maintain in Texas. [图片]Step 1 Choose a location where the plant receives afternoon shade, such as the east or north side of your home, to protect the shrub from the Texas sun. Encore azaleas, which bloom in the spring and then again--for an encore--in the fall, are more tolerant of alkaline soils and heat, making them a good choice for Texas. Step 2 Place ground pine bark, peat moss and sandy loam on top of the chosen planting spot. Mix with the shovel and build a mound about 12 to 18 inches high and about 4 feet in diameter. The shallow roots of the azaleas grow in this well-aerated, nutrient-rich mixture rather than the heavy clay soil of Texas. Step 3 Spread expanded shale on top of mound until shale is 2 inches deep. Step 4 Sprinkle five handfuls of fertilizer on the mound. Mix the planting medium with the shovel, maintaining the mound. [图片]Step 5 Place the shrub in the bucket of water and ensure the root ball is completely submerged. Soak until no bubbles rise to the top of the water. Remove shrub and cut the roots vertically in three places using the knife, allowing for new root growth. Step 6 Push dirt to the side in the middle of the mound. Make a hole almost the depth of the root ball. Place the azalea in the hole, ensuring the top of the root ball is slightly above ground. Step 7 Push the dirt back around the outside of the root ball, leaving the crown exposed. Mulch the entire mound without covering the crown or allowing the mulch around the trunk of the azalea. Mulch about 3 inches deep. Water well. Step 8 Check soil around the new shrub every day to ensure soil is slightly damp. Water when soil is dry. When growth of new leaves and flowers is obvious, water the root area well once or twice per week, depending on the weather. Maintain mulch depth for retention of moisture. Azaleas have shallow root systems and dry out quickly in the Texas heat. Step 9 Prune leggy stems just after flowering to make the shrub dense and compact. Do not prune or fertilize after budding begins around late July. Fertilize after pruning.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月26日
When shopping for new plants, many gardeners keep an eye out for something pretty to grow in that shady area of the garden. Found in nature growing on the forest floor, horny goat weed (Epimedium spp) is worth considering, for its bronze and red-tipped foliage as well as its winter hardiness. Also known as bishop's hat and barrenwort, horny goat weed is a perennial flowering plant, hardy to U.S. Department of Agriculture zones 4 through 8. Step 1 Add 2 inches of peat moss and 3 inches of compost to the planting soil and mix it into the top 10 inches. This will start your horny goat weed off right by giving it a rich soil in which to grow. Step 2 Dig planting holes, 8 to 10 inches apart, that are the same depth and three times the width of the nursery pot in which the horny goat weed is growing. Gently remove the plants from the pots and place the roots in the hole. Backfill the hole with soil, pressing lightly around the base of the plants. Step 3 Water the horny goat weed immediately after planting and keep the soil moist at all times. During hot, dry or windy weather, check the soil more frequently and water if needed. Step 4 Apply 2 to 3 inches of compost to the top of the soil, completely surrounding the horny goat weed, in early spring. Step 5 Cut off any winter-damaged foliage and stems in the spring. Don't be afraid to trim the entire plant back to the ground if needed, as it will grow right back.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月26日
With more than 400 species, Aloe is one of the largest groups of succulents. The most widely planted aloe, Aloe vera, is a favorite house plant and has naturalized in North Africa, India, the Caribbean, South America, and other frost-free areas, according to the Cactus and Succulent Society of America. Originating largely in Africa and the Arabian Peninsula, aloe is grown primarily for its spiky leaves, but many aloes also produce flowers. [图片]Aloe vera The aloe vera plant is the most familar and widely cultivated aloe. Gel from inside aloe vera leaves is used as a first aid treatment for burns, herbal remedies, food supplements, and in cosmetics. Succulent grayish green leaves up to 20 inches long grow from a dense rosette at the plant's base. Aloe vera produces offset pups, which are propagated and grow to adult size in individual containers. Tree aloes The largest African tree aloe is Aloe barberae, reaching almost 50 feet high with a stem diameter of approximately 3 feet. Unlike aloe vera, propagation is usually from seeds or stem cuttings. Another tree aloe is Aloe dichotoma (quiver tree). The quiver tree can grow to 30 feet. Native to South Africa and Namibia, tree roots are used in traditional medicine to treat asthma and tuberculosis. Mountain aloes Aloe marlothii is known as the mountain aloe. Described by Kew Gardens as "one of the most iconic of the hundreds of aloes occurring in Africa," this species fills South African hillsides with hundreds of plants. This is a tall aloe, 6 to 12 feet tall and rosette crown. Leaves are dull green with numerous short spikes on leaf edges and flat surfaces. Some ethnomedical uses of Aloe marlothii leaf gel include treating internal parasites in humans and livestock. [图片]Miniature aloes Miniature aloes include Aloe descoingsii, labeled the world's smallest aloe. A native of Madagascar, individual heads are approximately 1 1/2 inches across. Triangular leaves with whitish specks sit below small orange flowers. A little bigger is Aloe jucunda, with heads slightly larger than 2 inches. Another miniature aloe is Aloe haworthioides, with 2-inch heads, dark green leaves and hairy bristles.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月23日
虫害分布 分布于辽宁、河北、河南、陕西、山西、新疆等省、自治区。在山西、河北部分地区发生较重。主要为害杏,也有为害桃的报道。 [图片]虫害危害 杏仁蜂以幼虫在杏核内蛀食杏仁。幼虫在杏核内为害,虫果表面有半月形稍凹陷的产卵孔,有时产卵孔出现流胶。虫果易脱落,也有的干缩在树上。翌年春天成虫羽化后,杏核表面出现一个小圆孔,即成虫羽化孔。 虫害形态特征 雌成虫 体长约6毫米,翅展约10毫米。头宽大,黑色。触角膝状,基部第一节长,第二节最短,均为橙黄色。其余各节较粗大,黑色。胸部黑色,较粗壮,背面隆起,密布刻点。翅膜质,透明,翅脉色。腹部橘红色,有光泽,基部缢缩。产卵管深棕色。雄虫体长约5毫米,触角第三节以后呈念珠状,各节环生长毛。腹部黑色,第二节细长如柄,其余部分略呈圆形。 卵 长圆形,长约l毫米,一端稍尖,另一端圆钝,中间略弯曲。初产时白色,近孵化时变为乳黄色。 初孵幼虫 白色,头黄白色。老熟幼虫体长7~12毫米,头、尾稍尖而中间肥大,稍向腹面弯曲。头褐色,具1对发达的上颚。胴部乳黄色,足退化。 蛹为裸蛹,体长6~8毫米,初为乳白色,近孵化时变为褐色。 虫害发生规律 该虫一年发生一代,以幼虫在被害的杏核内越冬,4月下旬羽化为成虫,杏果如指头大时,将卵产于幼果果肉内,每果一般产卵一粒,卵经20—30天左右卵化为幼虫,在核硬化前蛀入杏仁,5月为害最重,常引起大量落果。 老熟幼虫在被害杏核内越夏、过冬。次年4月化蛹,蛹期为10天左右,杏树落花时开始羽化。成虫出土后在地表停留1-2小时开始飞翔。一般在杏果指头大时,成虫大量出现,飞到树上交尾,产卵。在杏核尚未硬化前产卵于核皮与杏仁之间,卵期约10余天,孵化的幼虫在核内食害杏仁,蜕四次皮,约在6约上旬老熟,即在杏核内越夏、越冬。被害果开始脱落或在树上干缩。成虫的活动时间一般以中午前后最为活跃。 。 [图片]虫害防治方法 1、清除落杏、干杏:杏仁蜂以幼虫在杏核内越夏越冬,全面彻底地收拾园内落杏、杏核;并敲落树上干杏,予以适当处理,就能基本上消灭杏仁蜂的为害,而无需应用药剂防治。 2、结合冬季果园耕翻,将杏核埋于15厘米深土层内,即可防止成虫羽化出土。 3、应用水选:淘除被害杏核。 4、成虫羽化期喷洒45%丙溴辛硫磷(国光依它)1000倍液, 40%啶虫.毒(必治)1500-2000倍液,国光乙刻(20%氰戊菊酯)1500倍液+乐克(5.7%甲维盐)2000倍混合液。
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Miss Chen
2018年08月22日
Plumbago can be rooted from stem or root cuttings. Unless you will be rooting them indoors, make the cuttings in fall or spring so the rootings benefit from mild temperatures while they become established. [图片]Stem Cuttings Cuttings should be 3 to 4 inches long, taken just below a leaf node, recommends Andromeda Botanic Gardens. Strip the leaves from the bottom half of the plumbago cutting. Dip the stripped half in water, then in rooting hormone, if available. Use a pencil to make a depression in the soil where you will plant your cutting. Place the cutting and firm the soil around it. Root Cuttings The University of Florida recommends root cuttings for propagating plumbago. Take cuttings from the mature root (1/4- to 1/2-inch diameter) of a two- to three-year-old plumbago in late winter or early spring, says the University of Florida IFAS Extension. Bury 2- to 6-inch-long cuttings horizontally under 1/2 inch of rooting medium. [图片]Considerations Keep plumbago cuttings out of direct sunlight but in a bright place until they've rooted. Keep the soil evenly moist. Covering the cuttings with a clear plastic covering helps conserve moisture and prevents wind damage.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月22日
Most garden plants are either annuals that bloom for one season only, or perennials that blossom once a year for multiple years. It is possible, though, to find flowers that bloom more than once a year. The specific plants that will blossom twice in your garden depend on your climate and growing conditions, but there are a few varieties that can generally be counted upon for biannual blooms. [图片]Encore Azalea Related to the rhododendron, the azalea is a flowering shrub known as the "royalty of the garden." Encore azaleas bloom more than once a year and grow best in U.S. Department of Agriculture planting zones 7 to 10, in slightly acidic soil. Encore azalea cultivars include Autumn Royalty, an azalea/rhododendron hybrid; Autumn Starlight, which has 3-inch white flowers that have pink freckles or stripes; and the Pink Craze, cold hardy, with light pink flowers. Cattelya Orchid Most orchid varieties bloom once a year, but the miniature cattelya orchid is notable for blooming twice -- other cattelyas also bloom twice depending on the variety and growth conditions. Speak with your seed supplier or garden expert to find out what will work in your own yard. Note also that other varieties might start blooming twice a year after they have had a few growths. The cattelya grows best in tropical climates. [图片]Bearded Iris Bearded irises are available in a range of colors, sizes -- under 8 inches to 42 inches tall -- and color patterns (including dark lower petals topped by lighter upper ones, and white petals with dark stippling). The climate needed for a bearded iris depends on the specific variety you are trying to grow, so check carefully with your plant supplier. Note that some varieties start to re-bloom only after a few years
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