动态第139页 - 绿手指 - 养花技巧、花生病了怎么办、花园打理和设计

2018年09月04日

虫害分布分布于东北、华北、华东、西北、河南、山西、湖北、安徽、江西，及长江流域等地。 [图片]虫害危害主要危害梨、苹果、沙果、杏、桃、山楂、槟沙果等多种果树植物。虫害形态特征成虫体长13～18mm，体系绿色，具金色金属光泽。体纺锤状，密布刻点。触角黑色锯齿状。复眼肾形褐色，头顶少央具倒“Y”形纵纹。前胸背面具5条蓝色纵纹，中央一条粗而显。鞘翅具10余条纵沟，纵列黑蓝色斑略隆，翅端锯齿状。前胸背板和鞘翅两侧缘具金红色纹带，故称金缘。雌虫腹末端浑圆，雄则深凹。卵扁椭圆形，长约2mm，初乳白、后渐变黄褐色。幼虫老熟体长约33mm，体扁平黄白色，无足，头小黄褐色，胴部前节宽大，体狭长，末节浑圆，前胸背中央具一深色倒“V”字形凹纹，腹中央有一纵列凹纹，各腹节两侧各具一弧形凹纹。蛹体长约17mm，初乳白，后渐变黄，羽化前蓝绿色略有光泽。复眼黑色。虫害发生规律此虫每年发生代数因地而异。江西1年发生1代，湖北、江苏1年发生l代或2年1代，河南、山西2年l代，陕西3年1代。以大小不同龄期的幼虫于被害枝、干皮层下或木质部处越冬，幼龄幼虫多于形成层处，老龄幼虫已潜入木质部处越冬。次春树液流动后，幼虫继续危害。3月下旬开始化蛹，蛹期约30d。5月上旬至8月中旬田间均可见到成虫，盛期期为5月中、下旬。产卵前期约10d左右，卵散产于树皮缝隙处，单雌卵量约30粒。成虫寿命30d左右。5月中、下旬为产卵盛期，卵期约10d，6月初为孵化盛期。成虫多白天且气温较高的中午活动，早晚温低时常静伏叶上，遇震动下坠或假死落地。此虫危害程度与树势和品种有关。树势衰弱，枝叶不茂、枝干棵露，则利于成虫栖息与产卵，受害重。适口性好的品种受害重。秋后以各龄期的幼虫子被害处越冬。 [图片]虫害防治方法幼虫期防治春季发芽前或秋季落叶期，在被害表皮处涂煤敌液(煤油1000混入50g80%敌敌畏乳油即成)，防效在90%以上。成虫期防治成虫羽化出穴初、盛期结合防治其它害虫，可喷布80%敌敌畏乳油或50%对硫磷乳油1500倍液，或2.5%功夫乳油8500倍液混配50%杀螟松乳油1500倍液，对初孵幼虫、卵及成虫均有明显的防效。毁灭成虫成虫羽前锯掉并烧被害枯枝死树。加强检疫工作对带虫砧木、苗子或接穗应在25～26℃，每立方米用16g的氰化钠室内密闭约1h，作熏蒸处理。

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Miss Chen

2018年09月04日

虫害分布在广西、广东、云南等省区都有分布； [图片]虫害危害寄主植物有龙眼、荔枝、芒果、人面果、台湾相思等多种，幼虫咬食寄主植物的叶片。虫害形态特征成虫雌虫体长21-26毫米，翅展70-75毫米。触角双栉状，栉齿棕黄色。足胫节和跗节有黑褐色斑，其余为灰白色。腹部灰白色。前翅灰白色上稀有黑褐色小鳞点；亚基线黑色不甚清晰；内线黑色向内斜至A1脉折角外弯；横脉纹新月形，灰白色，但不甚明显，黑边；外线黑色，端线和亚端线黑褐色；缘毛白色。后翅白色，翅脉淡黄色，横脉灰黑色。幼虫末龄幼虫体长45-48毫米，胸宽8-9毫米。头部和足黄白色，身灰白或灰绿色。体被灰黄白、柠檬黄或黄黑色混杂的茸毛，茸毛长短不一，小刺状。第1-4腹节背面中央各有一横置的背刺；第1、2腹节背面节间有一深黑色大斑；第8腹节背面中央有一束带小刺长毛斜指后方，柠檬黄色。蛹雌蛹体长约19毫米，胸宽8毫米左右；雄蛹体长14-15毫米，胸宽5。4-6毫米。初蛹为淡白色，后渐变成黄褐色；头、胸背面和中胸小盾片上的刚毛较浓密，深黄褐色；翅芽末端不伸至第4腹节后缘；腹部第4-7节的腹面为淡黄色，第8-10节为黄褐色。虫害发生规律在广西南宁地区一年于3-12月均有幼虫取食活动。幼虫3龄前喜群居生活，3龄后分散活动和取食转绿后的叶片；老熟幼虫在寄主植物上吐丝粘连叶片和茸毛，结成一个长60-65毫米、宽30-50毫米的松散蛹茧，在其中化蛹。 [图片]虫害防治方法 1.农业防治：注意果园清洁，铲除园中杂草，恶化其生活环境条件，以减轻为害。 2.人工防治：结合中耕除草和冬季清园，适当翻松园土，杀死部分虫蛹；也可结合疏梢、疏花，捕杀幼虫。 3.药剂防治：幼虫为害严重时喷洒国光必治（40%啶虫.毒死蜱）2000倍液、国光毒枪（45%丙溴.辛硫磷）1000-1500倍液、国光乙刻（20%氰戊菊酯）2000倍液隔10天左右1次，防治2～3次。

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Miss Chen

2018年09月04日

虫害危害别名：黑虫、地蚕、土蚕、切根虫、截虫。寄主：蔬菜、玉米、烟草、棉花、果树幼苗。为害特点：幼虫将蔬菜幼苗近地面的茎部咬断，使整株死亡，造成缺苗断垄，严重的甚至毁种。 [图片]虫害形态特征成虫体长20一22mm，翅展45—48mm，头部、胸部褐色，下唇须第2节外侧具黑斑，颈板中部具黑横线1条。腹部、前翅灰褐色，外横线以内前缘区、中室暗褐色，基线双线褐色达亚中褶处，内横线波浪形，双线黑色，剑纹黑边窄小，环纹具黑边圆形褐色，肾纹大具黑边，褐色，外侧具1黑斑近达外横线，中横线褐色，外横线锯齿状双线褐色，亚缘线锯齿形浅褐色，缘线呈一列黑色点，后翅浅黄褐色。卵半球形，卵长1．8mm，高1．5mm，初淡黄后渐变黄褐色，孵化前灰褐色。老熟幼虫体长41—61mm，黄褐色，体表皱纹多，颗粒不明显。头部褐色，中央具黑褐色纵纹1对，额(唇基)三角形，底边大于斜边，各腹节2毛片与1毛片大小相似。气门长卵形黑色，臀板除末端2根刚毛附近为黄褐色外，几乎全为深褐色，且全布满龟裂状皱纹。蛹长23—29mm，初浅黄色，后变黄褐色。虫害发生规律年生1代，以幼虫在田埂杂草丛及绿肥田中表土层越冬，长江流域3月初出土为害，5月上旬进入为害盛期，气温高于20℃则滞育越夏，9月中旬开始化蛹，10月上中旬羽化为成虫。每雌可产卵1000粒，卵期11—24天，幼虫期300多天。 [图片]虫害防治方法 (1)预测预报。对成虫的测报可采用黑光灯或蜜糖液诱蛾器，在华北地区春季自4月15日至5月20日设置，如平均每天每台诱蛾5—10头以上，表示进入发蛾盛期，蛾量最多的一天即为高峰期，过后20一25天即为2—3龄幼虫盛期，为防治适期；诱蛾器如连续两天在30头以上，预兆将有大发生的可能。对幼虫的测报采用田间调查的方法，如定苗前每m2有幼虫0．5—1头，或定苗后每m2有幼虫0．1—0．3头(或百株蔬菜幼苗上有虫1一2头)，即应防治。　　 (2)农业防治。早春清除菜田及周围杂草，防止地老虎成虫产卵是关键一环；如已被产卵，并发现1—2龄幼虫，则应先喷药后除草，以免个别幼虫入土隐蔽。清除的杂草，要远离菜田，沤粪处理。 (3)诱杀防治。一是黑光灯诱杀成虫。二是糖醋液诱杀成虫：糖6份、醋3份、白酒1份、水10份、90％敌百虫1份调匀，或用孢菜水加适量农药，在成虫发生期设置，均有诱杀效果。某些发酵变酸的食物，如甘薯、胡萝卜、烂水果等加入适量药剂，也可诱杀成虫。三是毒饵诱杀幼虫。四是堆草诱杀幼虫：在菜苗定植前，地老虎仅以田中杂草为食，因此可选择地老虎喜食的灰菜、刺儿菜、苦卖菜、小旋花、苜蓿、艾篙、青篙、白茅、鹅儿草等杂草堆放诱集地老虎幼虫，或人工捕捉，或拌入药剂毒杀。 (4)化学防治：在根部喷浇国光土杀（40%毒.辛）1000倍液或撒施国光地杀颗粒剂（5%丁硫克百威）4-6千克/亩进行防治。

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Miss Chen

2018年09月04日

虫害分布该虫分布于河北、河南、山东、山西及北京、天津等省、直辖市。 [图片]虫害危害海棠透翅蛾的寄主有苹果、梨、桃、杏、海棠、沙果等果树，可造成树势衰弱、死枝、死树等，是海棠大害虫之一。幼虫多于枝干分叉处和伤口附近皮层下食害韧皮部，蛀成不规则的隧道，有的可达木质部，被害初有粘液流出呈水珠状，后变黄褐并混有虫粪，轻者削弱树势，重者枝条或全株死亡。虫害形态特征海棠透翅蛾属鳞翅目，透翅蛾科昆虫，成虫：雌成虫体长12～14毫米，翅展19～26毫米，体黑色并有蓝色光泽，头后缘环生黄白色鳞毛，复眼紫褐色，胸部两侧各有黄斑，翅脉黑色，翅脉间透明，腹部第2节和第4节后缘各有一黄色环纹（苹果透翅蛾第4～5节各有一黄色环）。雌蛾尾部有两丛黄白色毛丛。雄蛾尾部有扇状丝毛丛。卵：黄褐色，扁椭圆形，有六角形白色刻纹。幼虫：老幼虫体长22～25毫米，头褐色，腹部乳白色，因体背常有褐色粘液而成污白色，各节体背疏生细毛，腹足趾沟单序双横节，臀足趾沟单横带；蛹：黄褐色，长约15毫米，腹部3～7节背面各有一横排刺，腹末环列8根臀棘。虫害发生规律在华北每年发生一代，以幼虫在皮层内结茧过冬，春季3月下旬树体萌动时开始活动，继续蛀食皮层为害，并排出红褐粪便，4月末开始化蛹，6月上旬为化蛹盛期，化蛹前幼虫先作一羽化孔，但不透过表皮，在羽化孔下作长椭圆形茧化蛹，蛹期约14天，成虫羽化期自 5月末至8月上旬陆续发生，羽化盛期在6～7月。成虫白天活动，取食花蜜，常选择衰弱枝干或枝杈部粗皮缝内，或伤疤边缘产卵，每雌约产卵20余粒，散产，卵期约10天，自6月上旬即有卵孵化直至8月中旬，到11月份不同龄期的幼虫均可结茧过冬。 [图片]虫害防治方法（1）在幼虫为害处可涂抹敌敌畏煤油乳剂，（即每公斤敌敌畏加200克煤油）以杀死幼虫。（2）人工挖出幼虫杀死，伤疤处涂以灭腐灵，也可将被害处粗皮和粪便轻轻刮去，露出虫孔而后抹20倍氧化乐果或甲胺磷，以杀死幼虫。一般应在春季进行。（3）成化学防治发生盛期用45%丙溴辛硫磷（国光依它）1000倍液，或国光乙刻（20%氰戊菊酯）1500倍液+乐克（5.7%甲维盐）2000倍液组合喷杀幼虫，可连用1-2次，间隔7-10天。

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Miss Chen

2018年09月04日

虫害分布分布：山东、河南、陕西等省。为害：桃、李、杏、梅等。 [图片]虫害危害桃象虫甲成虫蛀食幼果，使果面上蛀孔累累并流胶，轻者使品质降低，重者引起落果。幼虫在果内蛀食，使果实干腐脱落。成虫在幼果上产卵，造成大量落果。虫害形态特征成虫体长10毫米左右，全体紫红色有金属光泽。卵椭圆形，长约 1毫米，乳白色。幼虫成熟时体长12.5毫米左右，乳白略带黄色，背面拱起，无胸、腹足。蛹体长8毫米左右，淡黄色，稍弯曲，头、胸部背面褐色，有长刺毛。虫害发生规律 1年发生 1代，主要以成虫在土中越冬，次年春季桃树发芽时开始出土上树为害，以4月初幼果期，成虫盛发后为害最严重，落果最多。成虫怕阳光，常栖息在花、叶、果比较茂密的地方，有假死性，受惊后即坠落地面或在下落途中飞逃。成虫主要为害幼果，以头管伸入果内，食害果肉。 [图片]虫害防治方法 1、捕捉成虫：利用成虫假死性，于清晨露水未干时，树下铺布单摇动树枝，成虫受惊后跌入，然后集中处理。雨后成虫出现最多，效果好。 2、喷药防治：在4月间成虫盛发期，喷80%敌敌畏1000倍液。 3、清除虫果：勤拾落果和摘除树上的蛀果，加以沤肥或浸泡在水中，可消灭尚未脱果的幼虫。 4、地面撒药：春季成虫出土前，在果园树下撒50%西维因粉。

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Miss Chen

2018年09月04日

The care and effort it takes to overwinter elephant ears (Colocasia spp.), which grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 11 with some variation within species, depends on your climate. In frost-free tropical and sub-tropical areas, these lush foliage plants grow year-round with minimal winter care. In frost-prone regions, overwintering elephant ears takes a little more effort, but it's worth it when the 2- to 3-foot-long heart-shaped leaves bring a tropical flair to the garden the following summer. [图片]Mild Climates Need Little Care In USDA zones 10 through 11, elephant ear plants will grow year-round, remaining green through the winter. Discontinue watering from late fall through winter so the soil dries out. The soil can dry out completely during the dormant period, but natural rainfall will likely keep the soil moist. Cut back dead foliage and stalks as they die 2 to 4 inches from the soil line. Elephant ear foliage dies back throughout the year, but winter is a good time to tidy plants. You can cut out dead leaves any time of year. Frosty Areas Require Some Protection While elephant ear plants survive winters in frost-prone areas, specifically within USDA zones 8 through 9, the foliage will die back after a frost or cold spell. Once the first frost kills the foliage, cut back the stalks 2 to 4 inches from the soil line, then cover the soil with a layer of mulch 4 inches deep. No additional water is necessary during the dormant period. The mulch helps insulate the soil. Sawdust, seed-free straw, leaf-mold and compost all make good mulching materials. Overwintering Indoors Outside of the growing zone -- anywhere colder than USDA zone 8 -- elephant ears are not reliably hardy. The roots will freeze in the cold soil, killing the plants. In cold areas you have two choices: you can grow elephant ears in pots and keep them in a frost-free area over winter in a dormant state, or dig the tubers in the fall and . Overwintering Pots Indoors Before the first frost, move the container to an area that won't freeze over winter. An unheated garage or shed that stays above 50 degrees Fahrenheit works well. Discontinue watering through the winter. This forces elephant ear tubers into dormancy. Cut all the stalks down at the soil level. In the spring when the temperature is consistently at or above 60 degrees F, water when the top of the soil feels dry. Once the last frost has passed, you can return the pots outdoors. [图片]Digging and Storing Tubers Allow the leaves and stalks to die back naturally with the first of the winter frosts. Once dead, cut back the foliage 2 to 4 inches from the soil, then carefully dig out the roots. Elephant ears have fleshy tubers for roots. Brush soil away from the surface and identify the shape and size of the tuber, then dig down around the outside of the root and lift it from the soil. Brush off extra dirt and pack the tubers in dry sawdust or peat moss in a bucket or tub. Keep the tubers dry in a 50-degrees F spot through the winter.

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Miss Chen

2018年09月04日

graf 4 Most people are only familiar with the top heavy doubles which tend to flop in the wind or rain, and explode all over when the blossoms age. For some people this is unsightly and for others the masses of petals dappling the lawn is beauty itself and natural. For those who do not like the bad habits of the heavy peonies, there are singles, beautiful semi-doubles, anemone, Japanese and new doubles bred specifically with strong upright stems, available. It is a matter of searching for the right variety to fit your taste and garden style. [图片]staking grafs 1-2 Each person has their own method for staking peony plants, some work, others not so well. The longer stems of many peonies, especially the heavy doubles, will blow down by the time the flowers are fully open. This habit often keeps people from purchasing and enjoying these beautiful and often lovely scented plants which is a shame. Peony staking need not be a chore. I stay away from peony rings as I find them often disappointing in their ability to hold up the plant. For me, I use the method suggested by Allan Rogers in his informative book "PEONIES". He advises a single pass of heavy-duty garden twine around the plant, about a foot from the top, after the buds are enlarging in size. This gives sufficient support, tie snuggly but do not cinch in too tight as this affects both the look of the plant form and may damage the stems. Alternatively two lines, one twelve inches from the top and the other twelve inches below that. This method works for me and I find it is quick to apply. The twine is biodegradable so in the fall it is cleaned up and discarded with the foliage. Peonies. Their voluptuous blooms often drag these bushy plants down, especially after rain. The best cure is a peony cage, a sort of grid on stilts that you install over the early shoots in spring. The stems will grow up through the spaces of the grid so it supports the plant when the blooms get heavy. [图片]graf 4 Grow-through grids are invaluable, and if they were made in enough sizes, they would solve most staking problems. For robust, clump-forming plants, like peonies ( Paeonia spp. and cvs., USDA Hardiness Zones 3–8), Siberian irises ( Iris cvs., Zones 3–9), globe thistles ( Echinops spp. and cvs., Zones 3–9), coneflowers ( Rudbeckia spp. and cvs., Zones 3–11), and ornamental grasses, they are the ideal form of support. Their evenly spaced tic-tac-toe pattern of steel rods allows two or three stems to grow through each opening. Grow-through grids come in different shapes—round, square, or rectangular—with legs that are 18 inches to 3 feet tall. Most are made of stout steel wire coated in green plastic, which makes them virtually invisible if properly installed For the best results, set the grid a few inches above a plant early in the season, before the leaves mature. Attach the legs one at a time—they hook around the rim of the grid—and push them into the ground. Space the legs equidistant from each other if possible. When well placed and installed at the right time of year, the grid will disappear completely beneath the expanding foliage. You will have to revisit the plant periodically during the season and, in some cases, raise the grid and replace the legs with longer ones to keep pace with new growth.

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Miss Chen

2018年09月04日

Daylilies (Hemerocallis spp.) are named for their short-lived blooms, but these perennials can produce flowers for three to four weeks with the right care. Daylilies are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness 3 through 9 and grow 6 to 36 inches tall and 18 to 24 inches wide, depending on the variety. Watering daylilies frequently, removing their faded flowers, dividing them when crowded and growing them in full sun encourage prolific flowering. [图片]Watering Daylilies Continually moist soil promotes flowering in daylilies. These plants are drought-tolerant, but they flower best when they receive 1 inch of water per week, and they need more water when the weather is hot and dry. Water daylilies thoroughly when their first flower buds appear in spring, and spread a 2-inch-thick layer of shredded leaves or other light mulch over the bare soil between plants. Water the plants again when the soil surface is dry; scrape back some mulch to check if you aren't sure about the soil's condition. Don't water the plants so much that the ground becomes soggy. Removing Faded Flowers Taking off faded flowers prevents daylilies from developing seeds, which encourages more blooms. Seedpods behind the faded flowers must be removed to prompt the plants to flower again. Daylilies produce many flowers on single stems, and usually the flowers last about one day. Every two or three days, pinch off the faded flowers and developing seedpods where they join the stems. When all the flower buds on a stem have bloomed, prune the stem at its base. Sterilize pruning shear blades before and after pruning daylilies by wiping them with a cloth that was dipped in rubbing alcohol. Dividing Daylilies Poorly performing daylilies may be crowded, and dividing the plants usually increases blooming. Daylilies grow in fan-shaped clumps, and over time these clumps become congested. A sign of crowded plants is few flowers. Divide daylilies in spring. Push a garden fork deeply into the ground several times around a daylily clump, levering the fork upward each time until the daylily's root ball lifts out of the ground. Using a sharp knife or two garden forks inserted back to back into the clump then pulled apart, divide the clump into three or four sections. Plant the sections 18 to 24 inches apart and at their original growing depths. [图片]Using Full-Sun Sites Daylilies flower best when planted in a full-sun location. Specimens growing in partially shaded spots grow well, but they flower less. Growing daylilies in areas that receive at least six hours of sunlight daily provides the most flowers, but in warm climates the plants need some light shade during the hottest part of the day. Remove sources of shade, such as overhanging foliage, or transplant shaded daylilies to a full-sun site. Daylilies also can be replanted in a sunny spot after their clumps are divided in spring.

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Miss Chen

2018年09月04日

Newly transplanted day lilies (Hemerocallis spp.) establish quickly, producing lush, swordlike spring and summer foliage punctuated by bright summer flowers. Day lilies grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 10, depending on the variety. Whether you are transplanting new day lilies or dividing and transplanting those you already have, doing so at the right time ensures you still get to enjoy healthy plants and a full season of flowers. New Plants [图片]New day lily plants establish quickly when planted in spring, but you can plant them any time between spring and late summer. Potted plants can survive without immediate planting if you provide them with full sun and keep the soil moist. Day lilies bought as bareroot plants that aren't packaged in soil need immediate transplanting so the roots don't dry out. Trim off the top one-third of the foliage with shears wiped with a cloth soaked in rubbing alcohol before transplanting. Digging and transplanting on a cloudy day or in late afternoon prevents heat and sun stress on newly moved plants. Divide and Move [图片]Although existing day lily plants tolerate digging and transplanting any time during the spring and summer, the best time to dig in in early spring just as they begin putting on new growth, or in summer right after they finish their first flush of flowering. The plants require digging, dividing and transplanting every three years, or when the clumps get too large and the plants begin flowering poorly. Cutting back the leaves to 6 inches tall prevents breakage when you dig them up. Loosen the soil around the perimeter of the root zone with a spading fork and slide the fork underneath the roots, lifting the day lilies from the ground. Split the lifted clump into sections, with four leaf fans on each section, before transplanting. The Transplant Process [图片]Garden beds that get full, all-day sun with well-draining but moist soil provide healthy growing conditions for your day lilies. Mixing in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost into the top 8 inches of soil improves the soil. Plant new or divided transplants in a hole about the same depth as the root ball, so the crown of the plants sits just at the soil surface, and then fill in the hole with soil. Creating a mound of soil in the bottom of the hole allows you to spread the day lily roots out in the hole so they can establish well. Space the plants about 18 inches apart to prevent overcrowding. Care After Transplanting [图片]A deep watering right after transplanting helps the soil settle around the roots. After watering, cover the soil with a 2- to 3-inch layer of bark or pine straw mulch, leaving 1 to 2 inches between the mulch and the base of the plants. Mulch helps retain moisture and insulates the soil, while also smothering and preventing weed growth. Water day lilies once each week, soaking the soil 8 inches deep. You can trim off any tattered or damaged leaves with disinfected shears to improve the appearance of the day lilies as they establish.

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Miss Chen

2018年09月04日

Bee balm (Monarda didyma) sends up dense clusters of scarlet flowers in midsummer, and it often remains in bloom for a month or longer. The flowers attract butterflies, bees and hummingbirds to your flower bed, making it a suitable choice for a low-growing shrub or an anchor plant in the garden. Bee balms are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 9, where they require little maintenance to thrive. Removing the old flowers, a process called deadheading, and pruning correctly improves both the appearance and health of the bee balm. Deadheading Benefits [图片]Bee balm flowers don't retain any ornamental qualities after they fade. The formation of seeds can cause the quick decline of the foliage so the whole plant begins to die back before the end of the growing season. Removing the spent flowers prevents foliage loss and may encourage a second weaker flush of flowers, extending both the growing and the flowering season of the small shrub. Deadheading and pruning also increases air circulation, which can help prevent powdery mildew and fungus problems. Tools and Preparation [图片]Handheld pruning shears can handle the summer pruning needs of bee balm. Bypass shears work better than single-blad varieties because they make a clean cut without crushing the stem. Clean and disinfect the shears thoroughly before you begin deadheading and again after each plant to minimize the spread of diseases, pests or fungal spores. Wiping the shears with a cloth soaked in isopropyl alcohol allows for quick disinfection as you prune. Washing your hands before pruning and wearing gloves also helps prevent the spread of disease. Deadheading Technique [图片]Begin deadheading as soon as the first flower clusters begin to wilt and die. Cut back the flowering stems to within 1/4-inch of a leaf or leaf bud near the top of the stem. After deadheading, rake up and dispose of or compost the removed flowers. Bee balm begins flowering in midsummer and each flower cluster can persist for several weeks. Checking the plants weekly for wilting clusters allows for prompt removal of the older flowers so their seed production doesn't weaken the plant. Cutting Back [图片]Cutting back the entire bee balm after the first major flowering flush is over removes any remaining flower clusters and rejuvenates the foliage for the remainder of the growing season. Remove up to one-third of the plant from the top, trimming off both the old flowers and foliage. The bee balm usually responds with a flush of new growth and flower bud production, although this second flowering is not as lush as the first. You can also cut back the bee balm by half its height in mid-spring before it begins to flower to encourage fuller foliage and more flower buds, but this treatment may delay flowering by a few weeks.

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