动态第140页 - 绿手指 - 养花技巧、花生病了怎么办、花园打理和设计

2018年09月03日

虫害分布国内主要分布于湖北、江西、浙江、云南、贵州、四川、海南、广东、广西、福建、台湾；国外主要分布于锡金、印度，不丹、尼泊尔、斯里兰卡、缅甸、泰国、马来西亚，澳大利亚、新几内亚。 [图片]虫害危害主要危害芸香科的黄皮(Clausena lansium)、假黄皮(C．excavata)、食茱萸、光叶花椒等植物。为害特点幼虫食芽、叶，初龄食成缺刻与孔洞，稍大常将叶片吃光，只残留叶柄。苗木和幼树受害较重。虫害形态特征成虫翅展80～95 mm，体侧黄白色，体背黑色或黑褐色。翅黑色或棕黑色，前、后翅的斑纹除后翅前缘中斑及臀斑颜色不同外，其他斑纹都呈黄白色或棕黄色。前翅基区及亚基区有由许多细碎黄点组成的多条细横纹，外缘及亚外缘有斑列，中区及中后区有许多排列不规则、大小不同的斑纹，亚顶角有1枚长斑，外缘波状，波谷有黄点。后翅外缘及亚外缘区有斑列，中前区及亚基区大斑相连成宽横带，带内侧弧形，外侧凹凸不齐；前缘中斑有蓝色瞳斑，臀角具红斑，外缘波状，波谷有黄点。翅反面前翅除基部有放射形条纹，亚顶角内侧有3～4枚黄褐色的斑外，其余大致与正面相似。后翅基部多3枚淡黄色斑；中区呈杏黄色斑，比其他斑列增大而清楚；其他斑纹排列大致与正面相似。卵球形，黄色，将孵化时有黄褐色污斑。直径约1.1mm。幼虫 1～4龄幼虫鸟粪状：头部褐色，上有淡褐色云状斑；身体底色为黑色，胸部与7～9腹节的侧面有白纹；2~5腹节的侧面与背面形成“V”字形白带。老熟幼虫体呈绿色。后胸前缘及第1腹节后缘各有1条黄褐色的横带。第3、4腹节有1对褐色的斜带，带中有斑驳的紫色与白色细纹；第5腹节亚背部有1枚褐色小斑和2枚紫色小点，第6腹节亚背部有1枚紫色小点。气门褐色，臭角基部橙黄色，末端橙红色。蛹体色因所处环境不同而有绿色与褐色两型。头顶及中胸中央各有1对短突起，腹部略向两侧突出，第4~7腹节亚背部每侧各有1个小瘤。体长约34mm。虫害发生规律生活史及主要习性在广州，成虫于11月中旬产卵于柑桔嫩芽上，经7天孵化。幼虫先食柑桔嫩叶，虫体渐长，食量增大，老叶变可取食。幼虫期26-30天。老熟幼虫于11月下旬在枝间化蛹，蛹尾端固着于枝上，身体上部环系丝带。蛹体与枝条作40度左右倾斜，触动时则左右摇摆。蛹期25-45天，至1月中旬羽化为成虫。第2代幼虫，大多3月发现。以蛹越冬。 [图片]虫害防治方法 1、农业防治。人工捕捉幼虫和蛹，及时减少虫口发生基数。 2、生物防治。在达摩凤蝶发生不严重的时期或地区，应避免使用化学农药，以保护其寄生性无敌昆虫，例如凤蝶蛹期的天敌有：蝶蛹金小蜂（Pteromalus puparum Linnaeus）和广大腿小蜂（Brachymeris lasus（Walker）），其寄生率达30%以上，对凤蝶的发生、严重为害起到了明显的抑制作用。 3、药剂防治。化学防治应掌握在各代1～3龄幼虫期，喷施20%杀灭菊酯乳油或25%灭幼脲Ⅲ号悬浮剂1 500倍液，由于凤蝶幼虫抗药性差，其防效可达到98%以上。

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Miss Chen

2018年09月03日

虫害分布分布较广泛，在我国各柑橘产区普遍存在。 [图片]虫害危害柑橘爆皮虫别名柑橘旋皮虫、橘长吉丁虫、锈皮虫主要为害柑橘类。为害特点主要为害主干树皮的韧皮部和木质部，成虫取食柑橘嫩叶，幼虫在主干和主枝的皮层内蛀害许多蜿蜒虫道，造成千疮百孔，严重迫害韧皮部，大量流胶，虫道内塞满虫粪，使养分不能正常运输，树皮枯死，成片脱落或环状爆裂，导致全株枯死。老年树及树皮粗糙的橘树受害重，并且还可以诱发流胶病。虫害形态特征成虫体长宽6.5－9.1×1.6-2.7毫米，古铜色，具金属光泽，复眼黑色。触角11节，前胸背板密布指纹状皱纹。鞘翅狭长，有灰、黄、白色的短毛密集成不规则的波状纹，足末端呈"V"形，紫铜色，密布细小刻点，上有金黄色花斑翅端部有细小齿状突起。腹部6节，上有小刻点和细绒毛。卵长宽0.7－0.9×0.5－0.6毫米，椭圆形扁平，初乳白色，后变为土黄色至褐色。幼虫体扁平细长，乳白色或淡黄色，表皮多皱褶。头甚小，褐色，陷入前胸，前胸特别膨大，背面呈扁圆形，其背、腹面中央有一褐色纵沟，沟末分叉。腹末有l对黑褐色钳状突。一龄幼虫体长1．5－2毫米，乳白色，头与钳状突淡黄色。二龄体长2．5－6毫米，色淡黄。三龄长6-14毫米，淡黄色，背中线色深。四龄长12－20毫米，初细长扁平，后变粗短。蛹纺锤形，长9－12毫米，化蛹初期为乳白色，有光泽。扁锥形，柔软多皱褶。虫害发生规律一年发生一代，也有二年一代，低龄幼虫在树干皮层下越冬，老熟幼虫在木质部内越冬。越冬幼虫于2月中旬开始取食和老熟化蛹， 4月下旬为盛期，同时开始羽化为成虫，开始活动，5月为盛期，成虫出洞后5－7天开始交尾，一生交尾2或3次，交尾后1－2天产卵。幼虫刚孵化后，在树皮浅处为害，受害处先出现分散芝麻状油滴，继后流褐色透明胶质物。此后幼虫向深层蛀食。晴天闷热无风之日或雨后初晴的中午出洞多。一般日均温19℃左右时成虫才能出洞，成虫于晴天飞到柑橘树冠上取食嫩叶，吃成小缺刻；遇阴雨天则静伏在树冠下部枝叶上、草丛中、间作物上。成虫具假死习性。卵散产裸露或密排成鱼鳞状。雌虫一生产卵20－45粒。多产在树干裂缝或分枝处树皮下，少数产在树干上的地衣、苔藓下面。树皮粗糙，裂缝多的树和品种受害较严重。老树 (20年生以上)，营养不足、管理粗放且长势弱的柑橘园受害重。 [图片]虫害防治方法 (1)加强果园管理增施有机肥，合理灌溉，增强树势，提高树体的低抗力。结合修剪，刮除老、翘皮，彻底清除果园。 (2)在成虫活动前应彻底清除枯死树及死树。集中处理，消灭虫源。可用稻草绳捆扎为害严重和邻近被害橘树的主干，外涂稀泥，以防止成虫飞出和迁飞来树干上产卵为害。在8月下旬即可解除草绳，分别于3、6、9月削除流胶被害的树皮，以消灭卵、幼虫和蛹。 (3)保护和利用天敌。 (4)化学防治刮除被害部翘皮后，用40％氧化乐果、25％亚胺硫磷、80％敌敌畏乳油3－5倍液，涂抹被害部位，杀死虫、卵。也可用乐果、亚胺硫磷等5倍液涂抹全树干和主枝，以毒死出洞成虫和防止外来的成虫产卵。

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Miss Chen

2018年09月03日

虫害分布分布于北京、大连、石家庄、太原、济南、郑州、无锡、武汉和贵阳等地。 [图片]虫害危害主要为害葡萄，还为害山葡萄、常春藤、爬山虎等。以食叶为主虫害形态特征成虫体长18mm～20mm，翅展44mm～47mm。头、胸紫棕色，颈板及后胸端部暗蓝色。腹部及足黄色，腹背中央有1列紫棕色斑。前翅灰黄色，散生紫棕色斑点。前缘色稍浓，后缘及外横线以外紫棕色。内横线灰黄色，自前缘外斜至中室，角折内斜，在中室下缘呈明显双线。外横线灰黄色，双线，中部外弯，后半段明显内斜。亚缘线灰白色，锯齿形。缘线为1列黑点。肾纹、环纹紫棕色，黄边。后翅杏黄色，外缘有紫棕色宽带，臀角有1枯黄色斑。卵宽1.8mm，高0.9mm，半球形，红褐色，顶端有1黑点。幼虫老熟时体长32mm～42mm，头橙黄色，密布黑斑。胸、腹部黄色，前胸背板及两侧黄色，身体每节有大小不一的黑色斑点，疏生白毛。身体前细后粗，腹部第8节背面稍隆起。臀板橙蓝色，毛突淡褐色，褐斑连成1横宽带。蛹长约20mm，红褐色，尾端齐，略呈方形，两侧有角状突起，端部着生3对钩刺。虫害发生规律在辽宁一年发生2代，以蛹在葡萄根部附近或葡萄架下的土中越冬。5月下旬成虫羽化，卵产在叶背或嫩梢上。6月下旬幼虫孵化，为害葡萄叶片，7月中旬化蛹。7月下旬出现第2代成虫，8月中旬至9月中旬为第2代幼虫为害期。9月中旬幼虫老熟后入土化蛹越冬。北京地区一年发生2代，以蛹在寄主根部附近土壤中越冬。翌年5月中旬成虫羽化，有趋光性。日伏夜出，白天潜伏在叶背或杂草丛中，夜间交尾产卵，卵散产在叶片上，卵期为8天左右。6月中旬至7月中旬为第一代幼虫为害期，幼虫喜食嫩芽和新叶，造成缺刻和孔洞，严重时，只留下粗叶脉和叶柄。7月幼虫老熟化蛹，蛹期约7天。7月中旬至8月上旬为成虫期。8月中旬至9月中旬为第二代幼虫为害期。9月中、下旬幼虫陆续老熟入土化蛹越冬。 [图片]虫害防治方法 1、结合葡萄埋土与出土挖直越冬蛹。 2、结合整技捕捉幼虫。 3、幼虫期喷洒８０％敌敌畏乳剂或９０％敌百虫１０００倍液。 4、化学防治：尽量选择在低龄幼虫期防治。此时虫口密度小，危害小，且虫的抗药性相对较弱。防治时用45%丙溴辛硫磷（国光依它）1000倍液，或国光乙刻（20%氰戊菊酯）1500倍液+乐克（5.7%甲维盐）2000倍混合液,40%啶虫.毒（必治）1500-2000倍液喷杀幼虫，可连用1-2次，间隔7-10天。可轮换用药，以延缓抗性的产生。

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Miss Chen

2018年09月03日

虫害分布主要分布于北京、河北、河南、陕西、宁夏国外分布: 朝鲜、日本 [图片]虫害危害危害的植物有苹果、梨、核桃、山楂、桑、榆、毛白杨、刺槐、雪柳、太平花等。桑褶翅尺蛾是中小型蛾类,食性较广主要为害阔叶树的叶片。虫害形态特征成虫雌蛾体长 14—15 mm，翅展40-50 mm。体灰褐色。头部及胸部多毛。触角丝状。翅面有赤色和白色斑纹。前翅内、外横线外侧各有1条不太明显的褐色横线，后翅基部及端部灰褐色，近翅基部处为灰白色，中部有1条明显的灰褐色横线。静止时四翅皱叠竖起。后足胫节有距2对。尾部有2簇毛。雄蛾体长12—14 mm，翅展 38 mm。全身体色较雌蛾略暗，触角羽毛状。腹部瘦，末端有成撮毛丛，其特征与雌蛾相似。卵椭圆形， 0． 3 mm X 0． 6 mm。初产时深灰色，光滑。4—5天后变为深褐色，带金属光泽。卵体中央凹陷。孵化前几天，由深红色变为灰黑色。幼虫老熟幼虫体长 30－35 mm，黄绿色。头褐色，两侧色稍淡；前胸侧面黄色，腹部第一至第八节背部有储黄色刺突，第二至第四节上的明显地比较长，第五腹节背部有揭绿色刺1对，腹部第四至第八节的亚背线粉绿色，气门黄色，围气门片黑色，腹部第二至第五节各节两侧各有淡绿色剂1个；胸足淡绿，端都深褐色；腹部绿色，端都褐色。蛹椭圆形，红褐色。长 14—17 mm，末端有 2个坚硬的刺。茧灰褐色，表皮较粗糙。虫害发生规律一年发生1代，以蛹在树干基部地表下数厘米处贴于树皮上的茧内越冬，次年3月中旬开始陆续羽化。成虫白天潜伏于隐蔽处，夜晚活动，有假死习性，受惊后即落地，卵产于枝干上，4月初开始孵化。幼虫食叶，停栖时常头部向腹面卷缩于第5腹节下，以腹足和臀足抱握枝条。5月中旬老熟幼虫爬到树干基部寻找化蛹处吐丝作茧化蛹，越夏、越冬。各龄幼虫均有吐丝下垂习性，受惊后或虫口密度大、食量不足时，即吐丝下垂随风飘扬，或转至其他寄主为害。 [图片]虫害防治方法 1．营林措施应及时抚育，合理间伐，禁止采伐过度。对发生虫害较重的林内，可于秋末中耕灭越冬虫蛹；清除林内下木和寄主附近杂草，并加以烧毁，以消灭其上幼虫或卵等。 2.检疫苗木移栽时要注意检查，防止带虫苗木扩散。 3.人工防治于晚秋或早春用人工将土中的蛹挖出喂家禽家畜，最好将蛹放入容器内让寄蝇、寄生蜂飞出；或结合垦复措检虫蛹。对油茶尺蛾还可用培土埋蛹，理死成虫。幼虫一般有假死性，可在地下铺以薄膜，摇动树干，将落下的幼虫消灭。在害虫发生较严重的地方，可用人工于树干上捕蛾，刮卵或捕杀群集的初龄幼虫和卵，也可在树干基部难按或绑以 5－7 cm宽塑料薄膜带，以阻止无翅蛾上树，并及时将未上树蛾杀死；或于 8月中旬在寄主植物叶背及杂草上收集点尾尺峨等的虫茧；秋季在奇主树干捆一圈干草或一薄膜环（毒环），弓l诱越冬虫到此越冬，并于早春加以烧毁；并可在树干靠基部刮两个 5一10 cm宽、相互交错的半环，涂上久效磷或涂胶环杀虫。 4.保护和利用天敌应尽力保护利用捕食性和寄生性天敌。病原微生物对抑制幼虫危害起着很大的作用，可根据实际情况选甩下列微生物制剂： lml含抱量 0．5—0．7记苏云金杆菌或 1－2亿青虫菌乳剂；每克菌粉含 100亿孢子的白僵菌粉剂或 lml含 1亿孢子的白僵菌液；每毫升 0． 13亿多角体油桐尺煌校多角体病毒（NPV）防治油桐尺蛾；每亩用 1． 31X 10 ’一2 X 10’春尺娘NPV多角体防治春尺蠖。刺槐林内放猪可以消灭80％以上桑褶翅尺蛾的蛹；油茶林内放鸭子，让其吃食摇落的幼虫。

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Miss Chen

2018年09月03日

危害以成、若、幼螨刺吸芽、叶、果的汁液，叶受害初呈现许多失绿小斑点，渐扩大连片，严重时全叶苍白枯焦早落，常造成二次发芽开花，削弱树势，影响花芽形成及下年产量。 [图片]虫害形态特征成蟥有冬、夏之分，冬型体长0.4〜0.6毫米，朱红色有光泽；夏型体长0.5〜0.7毫米，紫红或褐色，体背后半部两侧各有一大黑斑，足浅黄色，体卵圆形，前端稍宽且隆起，体背刚毛细长，26根，横排成6行。雄体长0.35〜0.45毫米，纺锤形，第三对足基部最宽，末端稍尖，第一对足较长，体浅黄绿至浅橙黄色，体背两侧各具一黑绿色斑。卵球形，浅黄白至橙黄色。幼螨足3对，体圆形，黄白色，取食后卵圆形、浅绿色，体背两侧出现深绿色长斑，若蛾足4对，淡绿至浅橙黄色，体背出现刚毛，两侧有深绿色斑纹，后期与成螨相似。虫害发生规律北方年发生5〜13代，均以受精雌蟥在树体缝隙内及干基附近土缝隙内群集越冬。翌春日平均气温达9〜101，花芽开绽之际出蛰上芽为害，樱桃苗木红蜘蛛出蛰比较集中，约 80“的个体集中在10〜20天内出蛰，初花至盛花期为产卵盛期，卵期7天左右，越冬雌螨产卵后陆续死亡，第一代幼蟥和若蟥发生比较整齐，为期约15天，6月中旬以后，随着气温的升高，发育加快，夏季产卵期平均4〜6天，幼螨及若螨期5〜7天，第二代孵化盛期约在落花后1个月。此时各虫态同时出现，世代重叠，7〜8月份，螨量达最高峰，为害也最为严重，往往使叶片焦枯，甚至提早落叶。樱桃苗木红蜘蛛个体发育需经过卵、幼螨、若螨、后期螨和成螨5个阶段，共蜕皮3次，每次完成前需静伏 1〜2天，在静伏期间不食、不动。 [图片]虫害防治方法在发芽期防治后，果实生长期一般为害性较小，果实采收后发生严重的果园要及时进行药物防治。虫口少的果园，在防治其他害虫时兼治即可。药剂防治：喷布20^哒螨灵1 000〜1 500倍液、茴蒿素65“水剂450~700倍液、1. 0^阿维虫清乳剂4 000倍液

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Miss Chen

2018年09月03日

Producing a new azalea (Rhododendron spp.) from cuttings creates a new plant with the same characteristics as its parent. Reproducing azaleas from cuttings is often the only way to duplicate the style of a particular plant, since many azaleas are hybridized plants that can't reproduce the same traits from seed. Azalea species such as flame azalea (Rhododendron calendulaceum) often have a narrow growing range. Flame azaleas grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 to 7. [图片]Best Azalea Cuttings Growing evergreen azaleas from cuttings is typically much more successful than their deciduous counterparts. During the summer after the new growth from the spring season has just begun to harden and turn brown is the best time to take an azalea cutting. The most viable cuttings come from healthy plants that are not stressed by malnutrition, insect damage or disease. A growing azalea branch that is brown but still flexible 3 to 6 inches from its tip with several healthy leaves is an ideal candidate. Dipping the blades of your cutting shears in rubbing alcohol and air-drying them is an effective way to avoid introducing diseases to your azalea and the cutting. Preparing the Container The Clemson University Cooperative Extension recommends starting azalea cuttings in a mix of peat and perlite in equal parts. Wetting the soil before you insert an azalea cutting encourages rooting and helps keep the cutting hydrated. You can use any planting container large enough to hold the cuttings that is clean and has drainage holes. You can sterilize used containers by rinsing them with a solution of 1 part bleach to 10 parts water. Preparing Azalea Cuttings Removing the leaves from the bottom half of the cutting reduces the amount of nutrients and water it will lose before it can establish roots. Leave at least two leaves near the tip of the cutting. Trimming the stem just beneath the point where the first leaf attached to the cutting removes excess material that cannot form roots. Dipping the bottom third of the trimmed cutting in a powered rooting hormone improves its ability to generate new roots. Gently tap the cutting's stem to dislodge excess rooting hormone after dipping it. Planting Azalea Cuttings Cuttings often fail to take root, but planting several cuttings at the same time improves the odds that at least one will take. Azalea cuttings need 2 to 3 inches of space between the edge of the container and other cuttings to thrive. Insert each cutting into the soil until the bottom third of the stem is covered and gently firm the soil around the cutting's base to prevent it from falling over. [图片]Caring for Azalea Cuttings Cuttings can not replenish water they lose until they have formed new roots. Maintaining a high level of humidity around the leaves of the cuttings helps reduce water loss, preventing your cuttings from drying out. You can increase the humidity around an azalea cutting by misting its leaves with water and covering it with a clear plastic bag or the severed bottom half of a plastic 2-liter bottle. Once the cutting develops roots, the plastic cover can be removed. When the cutting develops resistance to a gentle tug, its roots have begun growing. Until the roots have had time to establish themselves fully, the cutting needs regular, light watering to keep the soil around the roots from drying out. Safe Handling Nearly all parts of azalea plants are toxic when consumed. Wearing gloves while working with cuttings and washing your tools and hands after you are finished helps prevent cases of accidental poisoning. Avoid eating or handling food while you are working with the cuttings.

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Miss Chen

2018年09月03日

The best time for transplanting phlox has to do with bloom time and species. "Phlox" can refer to over 60 species and a range of cultivars, so you need to know which one is in your garden before you decide when to transplant. The common name "creeping phlox" may refer to three species: [图片]Moss phlox (Phlox subulata). This rock-garden perennial is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 2 through 9. It grows about 6 inches tall, and spreads up to 36 inches. True creeping phlox (Phlox stolonifera). This plant is hardy in USDA zones 5 through 9. It forms a mat of foliage 3 inches tall, which can spread indefinitely to naturalize an area. The flowers form on 8 inch stalks. Sand phlox (Phlox _bifid_a). This creeping phlox grows 6 inches tall and spreads up to 12 inches wide. It is a slow-growing plant that's hardy in USDA zones 4 through 8. When to Transplant Perennial plants should be transplanted or divided when they are not blooming. This lets the plants focus their energy on growing new roots and leaves instead of flowers. In general, spring-blooming plants should be transplanted in the fall, and fall-blooming plants should be moved in the spring. Sand phlox blooms mid- to late spring. Moss phlox blooms midspring through early summer. True creeping phlox blooms midsummer through early fall. Transplant true creeping phlox in the spring and sand and moss phlox in the early fall. You can also divide or transplant phlox immediately after flowering, but the plants require more care at this time. If you transplant spring-blooming phlox after flowering, the plants need extra water to survive the warm summer months. If you transplant fall-blooming phlox after flowering, the plants need winter protection to keep the shallow roots safe from cold. Where to Transplant Prepare the planting location before you transplant phlox. Moss phlox and sand phlox both prefer a sunny location with well-draining soil. True creeping phlox grows best in full-sun or part-shade locations with evenly moist, well-draining soil high in organic matter. [图片]Moss phlox and sand phlox grow in a variety of well-draining soils, including sandy and gravely locations, but do not tolerate heavy clay or wet soil. Amending compacted, poorly draining soil enough for these plants is difficult. If you decide to amend this type of soil, remove the soil to a depth of 18 inches, combine the soil with sand at a ratio of 1 part soil to 3 parts sand, and then use that mixture to fill in the hole. After that, plant phlox as you would in any well-draining location. You can also spread 1 to 2 inches of organic matter over the soil and work that in to a depth of 6 to 8 inches before planting. True creeping phlox benefits from organic amendments before planting. Adding organic amendments like sphagnum peat or well-rotted compost increases moisture retention and soil fertility. Spread these amendments 2 to 3 inches deep over the soil surface, and work them in to a depth of 6 to 8 inches before planting. How to Transplant Water the phlox plant thoroughly a day or two before you plan to transplant it, or wait to transplant until a day or two after it rains. When you're ready to transplant, use clean gardening shears to trim back the foliage so that you can see the base of the plant. You can remove up to half of the foliage before transplanting. Use a clean shovel or gardening fork to dig all around the plant at a distance of 4 to 6 inches from the base. Next, slide your digging tool under the plant and lift it as a clump. Phlox are shallow-rooted, so they should come up from the soil easily. If you want, you can divide plants at this time and plant them in several locations. Plant the transplanted phlox as soon as possible after digging at the same depth it was previously growing. Firm soil around the plant, and then water thoroughly. Keep the soil moist, but not soggy, for the first two weeks. After that, water sand phlox and moss phlox when the top 2 to 3 inches of soil feels dry to the touch. Water true creeping phlox often enough to keep the soil evenly moist.

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Miss Chen

2018年09月03日

Tall and distinctive, pampas grass (Cortaderia selloana) makes a showy statement in the landscape. Sometimes it's almost too showy -- the non-native plant is categorized as invasive in many areas, including parts of California. Pampas grass can also become a fire hazard if left untended. Keep this large plant under control by cutting it all the way back to the ground at least once a year. Late Winter [图片]Cut pampas grass back in late winter, before new growth appears. In general, pampas grass grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 10. It grows as a perennial in warmer areas, but it is not evergreen in freezing climates. Still, many cultivars are cold-hardy and can survive in climates lower than USDA zone 8. When cold weather sets in, the foliage and stems dry out, turning brown and becoming a fire hazard. Make room for new growth by cutting it back almost to the ground. Cutting Methods [图片]Pruning this plant is not a simple matter. At maturity, pampas grass can reach a maximum average height and spread of 10 feet. Because of the size of pampas grass, power pruners or hedge or lopping shears are most effective in cutting back the plants. Sterilize the pruning tools by dipping them in a solution of 1 part bleach to 10 parts of water, then rinsing the tools before you start cutting. This will help prevent the spread of fungal and bacterial diseases. Protect yourself as well -- even dry, pampas grass leaves have sharp edges, and they will slice easily through your skin if you aren't careful. Wear long sleeves and gloves when cutting back the plant. Combing Dead Foliage [图片]Pampas grass is a vigorous grower and will grow to its maximum height -- or close to it -- in one season, so cutting it back to the ground won't really limit its size. If you don't have the tools to cut it all the way down, remove the dead foliage from the plant by combing it. Take a small garden rake and use it to grab and pull the dead foliage from the plant. Any dead leaves will easily pull away from the main plant. This will help clean up the appearance of the pampas grass without having to cut it all the way back. Cutting the Plumes [图片]Pampas grass is best known for its tall, feathery plumes. The striking plumes are often used in dried flower arrangements. If you'd like to harvest the prunes, use lopping shears to clip them off right after they fully open. If you wait too long, they will start shedding, especially in heavy rains or winds.

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Miss Chen

2018年09月03日

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Miss Chen

2018年09月03日

Hindu rope plants (Hoya carnosa "Krinkle Kurl") earned their common name with their 12- to 15-inch-long stems, which have a pendulous habit, like a length of rope. Usually grown as houseplants, they will also survive outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9a through 11. Hindu rope plants look best and live longer when provided with regular care year-round, but those care requirements vary according to the season. Seasonal Watering [图片]Hindu rope plants tolerate dry soil well, but they will look best if you water them regularly in summer. Water deeply but infrequently during the summer, saturating the soil and letting it dry out in the top one-third of the pot, before watering again. Hindu rope plants go dormant in winter and require far less water. Water every two to three weeks, wetting just the top 1/2 inch of soil with cool water. Always use pots with drainage holes. Careful Fertilizing [图片]Hindu rope plants are light feeders and will survive without fertilizer if planted in suitably rich, fast-draining growing medium. Because they seldom require repotting and may grow in the same soil for many years, they may need a boost of supplemental nutrients to help keep them growing. Use a balanced fertilizer with an NPK number of 15-15-15 or a low-potassium blooming fertilizer such as 7-9-5. Dissolve 1/4 teaspoon of the fertilizer in 1 gallon of filtered water, or according to the label's rate, then water once a month with the solution from midspring until late summer. Do not fertilize in fall or winter. Pruning and Grooming [图片]Regular pruning during the growing season will help improve the appearance of Hindu rope plants, but it can also cause major problems if not done correctly. Sanitize pruning shears before use to prevent infections. Soak them in household disinfectant for five minutes, rinse them in hot water and wipe them dry. Prune at any time to remove dead, damaged or unwanted growth, or prune flowering stems after the flowers fade. Avoid nicking or cutting the waxy flower clusters -- called peduncles -- because they will continue to produce flowers year after year but will die back if damaged. Also, be aware that Hindu rope plant leaks a latexlike sap when cut, so wear protective gloves and move the plant to prune it if it's on prized furniture. Problems and Solutions [图片]With good care, Hindu wax plants are seldom troubled by serious issues. Mealybugs are one notable exception and may cause serious damage in high numbers. You'll likely see the cottony masses underneath the leaves, but you might see the individual insects, less than 1/10 inch long, scuttling along the stems. Treat them with a soap solution. Dissolve 2 to 5 tablespoons of dishwashing liquid in 1 gallon of tap water and put the solution in a spray bottle. Spray the solution liberally on the undersides of the leaves on a cool, overcast day. Repeat the application every two weeks until the problem subsides. Special Considerations [图片]Tougher than they look, Hindu rope plants adapt to a variety of growing conditions and will survive despite drought, low humidity and neglect, but they may stop blooming regularly. The most common cause of failed blooming is insufficient light. Keep the plants where they will get bright light with direct sun in the morning. Eastern and western exposure is best, although they will also tolerate southern exposure with light shade. Move the plant, if necessary, and watch for new flowers the following spring.

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