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Miss Chen
2018年09月01日
Miss Chen
Lantana plants are evergreen shrubs or stemmed perennials that are members of the verbena family. There are over 150 varieties of lantana that are native to the warmer areas of the Americas and Africa. They are perennials in zones 9b to 12 but are often grown as annuals in colder zones. Lantana requires full sun to thrive and is known for its prolific blooms and the bees and butterflies it attracts. [图片]When to Plant Regardless of whether they are being grown as annuals or perennials, lantana thrive in heat and should be planted in the spring at least two weeks after any danger of frost has passed. Once planted, they often will not grow or bloom much until the soil warms up considerably. It is important that lantana plants have adequate time to establish their root systems if they are being grown as perennials. Otherwise, they will not survive the winter. Care and Maintenance Lantana are hardy plants that require very little care and maintenence other than a sunny, hot location and some deadheading to prolong blooming. In some areas, lantana grows so effortlessly that it is considered a noxious weed. This is not only because it can grow invasively but because all parts of the plant are poisonous. Despite this bad rap, lantana is a mainstay in the garden because it blooms prolifically yet needs very little attention. The plant is drought hardy, requiring only weekly watering when it is blooming. Occasional trimming back encourages a bushier plant and more blooms. After trimming, a light application of fertilizer can help lantana continue to thrive. If lantana is being grown as a perennial, do not cut it back hard in the fall, as this will compromise its ability to survive. Save hard pruning for spring, when plants should be cut back to 6 to12 inches above ground level and all dead growth and woodiness should be removed. Problems of Lantana Powdery mildew is the most common lantana disease; it can be prevented by making sure lantana is planted in full sun. Too much shade will also result in poor blooming. [图片]Too much water, poorly draining soil and overhead watering can cause root rot, so care must be taken to avoid these factors. Lantana are susceptible to whitefly infestation, mites and lantana lace bugs. Inspect plants frequently for leaf damage or drop. If present, remove affected foliage and apply a commercial insecticide and or fungicide to prevent infestation or infection from spreading.
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Miss Chen
2018年09月01日
Miss Chen
Russian sage is a 3 to 5-foot tall perennial with purplish blue flowers and silver foliage. It has fragrant leaves and it blooms from mid-summer season to the fall. It is a good plant for fall color in the garden, to use for dried or cut flowers, or to attract butterflies. Russian sage can be propagated by division every three years in the spring season or fall. [图片]Step 1 Make sure the plant isn't in active bloom and that the buds are dry. Russian sage is not in active bloom when the buds are dry, even though it may still look active. Step 2 Cut down the stems to approximately 6 to 8 inches high with garden trimmers. After cutting, dig up the plant with a shovel, creating a wide circle around it to get as much rootball as can be salvaged. Step 3 Remove soil around the roots and divide them into thirds if the plant is big enough, (in half if it is small). Pull the roots apart with your hands. Step 4 Keep the roots in water while you are transplanting. Step 5 Dig a new hole as deep as the length of the roots for divided plants with shovel, adding in manure and compost to add nutrients to the soil. [图片]Step 6 Set the plant's crown at the surface of the dirt, pulling dirt around the plant's roots as you continue. Step 7 Water Russian sage after the rootball has completely been covered in amended soil (soil with the added nutrients in step 5) and patted down (to ensure stability). Step 8 Mulch around the plant when the ground is about to freeze, sometime before the first "hard freeze" in your area. Mulching prior to ground freeze will keep the plant insulated and ensure it survives the winter.
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Miss Chen
2018年09月01日
Miss Chen
Russian sage blooms with bright purple flowers that resemble lavender, mixing well with its gray-green leaves and adding a depth of color to any garden. The hardy perennial plant is drought resistant, and though it carries the name "sage," is not part of the edible sage family. Move your Russian sage to ground that will not flood in the winter or dangerously soak the plants root system. [图片]Preparing the Site Loosen the soil and add compost to prepare the new growing site before transplanting Russian sage. The soil for growing Russian sage must be loose to encourage water to drain. Mixing compost into the planting site also helps drainage, and provides evenly moist soil. At any frost-free time of year, loosen the soil in the new growing site to a depth of 12 to 15 inches using a garden fork. Spread a layer of compost 2 to 4 inches thick, and mix it into the soil with the garden fork. Digging Up Russian Sage Russian sage requires careful removal to minimize damage to its root system. Growing 3- to 5-feet tall and 2- to 4-feet wide, Russian sage can have an extensive root system, and some damage is unavoidable. Digging up the plant carefully is unlikely to cause serious harm. Push a garden fork into the ground about 1 foot from the Russian sage's central stem, and lever the end of the fork upward. Repeat this around the plant's base, slowly working the root ball out of the soil. Wear gloves when handling the plant, since the leaves may cause irritation or an allergic reaction. Lift the plant out, and put it down on the soil's surface. Break off excess soil in areas that contain no roots, to lighten the plant's weight. Moving Russian Sage Take the Russian sage to its new growing site immediately after digging it up to prevent its roots from drying out. Russian sage is drought-tolerant and low-maintenance and should suffer few problems from transplanting, but replanting it right away increases the chances of success. Dig a hole 2 1/2 feet wide and as deep as the depth of the Russian sage's root ball, which is usually about 1 foot. Place the plant in the hole so that it's level and sitting at its original growing depth. You may need to add or remove soil at the base of the hole. Fill in the gaps around the root ball with dug soil, and gently firm the plant in its hole. [图片]After Care Regular watering helps Russian sage quickly establish in its new site. Water the Russian sage using a garden hose fitted with a spray attachment. Spray water over the root area until it begins to puddle, but avoid washing away soil. Through the rest of the growing season water Russian sage when the soil is dry to a depth of 2 inches. Russian sage grows sturdy, dense and upright if it is pruned in spring. Sterilize pruning shear blades by wiping them with a cloth that was dipped in rubbing alcohol, and prune all Russian sage stems to 6-inches tall in spring before new growth appears. Sterilize the pruning shears again after pruning.
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Miss Chen
2018年09月01日
Miss Chen
A standby in the butterfly garden, milkweed (Asclepias syriaca), which grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 9, provides the sole food source for monarch butterfly caterpillars. This 2 to 3-foot-tall perennial flowers through the summer and is one of several nectar sources for the adult monarch butterflies. With little required care, milkweed is a smart choice for meadows and wild areas of the yard. [图片]Seed Control Milkweed is best grown in naturalized areas and meadows as it tends to spread and take over more formal garden settings. You can keep it in check by plucking off all the flowers before they turn into seedpods. Use a pair of pruning shears. After clipping, rinse the blades in a solution of 1 part rubbing alcohol to 1 part water then let them dry before storing. Milkweed also spreads -- sometimes aggressively -- by its roots. Milkweed and Larvae Monarch butterfly caterpillars rely on the milkweed's leaves for food, but they leave holes behind when they feed. Because of this, milkweed works best in an informal garden setting where the feeding caterpillars can leave ragged-looking plants without ruining your manicured gardens. The caterpillars are easy to find with their striking yellow, white and black stripes. Slug Problems While resistant to disease, milkweed does attract slugs. These slow-moving, leaf-eating garden pests damage leaves and flowers when given a chance. If you notice large holes in the leaves, check for slugs -- the best time is after dark with a flashlight -- under the leaves every two to three days. Bring a bucket of water with 1 capful of dish soap added with you. As you pick off the slugs, drop them in the bucket. The soap kills the slugs, eliminating the unpleasant task of crushing them. Wear gardening gloves if you don't like touching the slugs. [图片]Milkweed Aphids Milkweed aphids suck sap from the plant's leaves. While natural predators usually keep aphids in check, you can use insecticidal soap for severe infestations. Spray the aphids directly with a ready-to-use product until they are saturated. Be careful not to get any on monarch butterfly caterpillars. Because milkweed is such an important plant for the monarch butterfly, avoid treatments when possible and don't use harsher chemical treatments. Sometimes simply spraying aphids with a strong jet of water is enough to get rid of them. Don't mistake the aphids for monarch eggs. Monarch butterflies commonly lay a single egg on each milkweed plant under a leaf. The milkweed aphids are yellow and generally live in colonies while the egg is and white and commonly on its own. Winter Care and Toxicity Milkweed plants survive the winter in cold regions by going dormant. In fall, adding a 3- to 4-inch-deep layer of mulch helps insulate the soil. While not required, this helps keep the ground from freezing and thawing and disrupting the roots. In spring, pull back the mulch to give space to the new growth. Plant milkweed away from areas where small children or pets spend time as the leaves are toxic if eaten.
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Miss Chen
2018年09月01日
Miss Chen
Petunias (Petunia spp.) grow as perennials in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 10 and are broken into four categories of grandiflora, multiflora, milliflora and spreading types, but they are often treated as annuals. Though a prolonged frost can kill petunias, including new transplants, established and older transplants usually can survive a light frost, according to Colorado State University Extension. Cells within plant stems and roots freeze and burst when the temperature cools quickly during a frost, which can kill tender perennials. Prompt plant protection can help petunias survive a frost, as long as the temperature below 32 degrees Fahrenheit aren't prolonged. You also can protect newly planted petunias in spring or early summer when a late frost occurs. If frost damage does occur, wait until all danger of frost has left your area before pruning affected foliage. Wise Watering [图片]Moisture increases humidity, and humid air and moist soil can hold warmth better than dry air. Water the petunias thoroughly the day before the expected frost, but avoid watering during the cold period because moisture on the leaves can cause damage. Irrigate potted petunia plants until the excess moisture just begins to drip from the pots' bottom drainage holes, and water petunias planted in the ground until the top 6 inches of their soil feels moist but not soggy to your touch. Planter Protection [图片]Potted petunias require the least effort to protect during cool temperatures. Simply take the pots indoors during the frost or move them to another protected area, such as an unheated shed or garage. Placing them under a patio awning may provide sufficient protection during a brief frost. If the pots are too heavy to move easily, then protect the petunias using the same methods as you would for petunias planted in the ground.. Mulch Matters [图片]A layer of mulch on top of soil insulates plant roots and helps conserve warmth in the soil. Mulch can prevent petunia roots from becoming too cold during a brief frost and may even provide sufficient protection for the petunia foliage. Use dry leaves or a straw mulch for frost protection. Mound the mulch over the plants after irrigation, and completely cover the crowns, where stems and roots merge. Remove the mulch covering the crowns and foliage only after the danger of frost passes, but leave a 2-inch-thick layer of mulch over the soil to continue insulating the roots. Creative Covers [图片]Covering the petunias protects their flowers and foliage from a brief frost. If daytime temperatures are warm between nights with frost, then an option is to cover the petunias overnight and uncover them during the day. Insert stakes around the petunias to elevate the cover so it doesn't touch any foliage. Drape a blanket, cloth sheet or plastic over the stakes, anchoring the cover's edges to the ground with a mound of soil or small rocks. The cover will trap soil warmth and keep frost off the petunias. You also can place a string of holiday lights around the petunias and turn on the lights to generate some heat under the cover, but place the lights so they don't actually touch the cover. Care Concerns [图片]Warming cold petunias too quickly in the morning can result in further damage after the frost has passed. If their area receives direct morning sunlight, then vent the cover so the air doesn't warm too quickly and cause the moisture in the plant cells to overheat and the cells to burst. Remove the cover after the temperature beneath it and in the surrounding air stabilizes. If the foliage or flowers die back due to frost, then trim back the dead foliage and stems, but wipe the shears you use with a cloth soaked in isopropyl alcohol to disinfect them before pruning. The petunias will grow back from the plant crowns if the roots survived the frost.
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权问薇
2018年08月31日
权问薇
[图片]仙客来如何休眠度夏？ 仙客来属于喜欢阴凉的花，夏天的高温对它一点也不友好，稍微不小心就会造成死亡，所以在天气超级热之前，一定得提前做好度夏准备！ [图片]度夏方法： 1、修剪叶片 当室外温度超过20℃的时候，仙客来的叶片开始发黄，开花量也在逐渐减少，此时要对仙客来进行修剪，将那些发黄的叶片剪掉，大概去掉叶片的1/3即可。如果修剪后花梗容易倒伏，就找绳子稍微固定一下。 2、再次修剪 当室外温度达到25℃的时候，要对仙客来进行二次修剪，将没开完的花朵和叶片继续修剪大概1/2，等温度达到30℃的时候，将仙客来花朵全剪掉，叶片只留下2-3片叶子即可。 3、休眠期养护 将修剪后的仙客来放到阴凉通风的地方，北阳台或是室内通风处，不要太阳直射。休眠期避免淋雨，同时浇水量一定要减少，可采用浸盆法浇水，避免球茎积水烂根。 4、重新生长 休眠期可以观察叶片情况，若是仙客来剩下的2-3片叶子也发黄，那就剪到只剩1片叶子。保留1片叶子，会让仙客来在秋天苏醒早，甚至比那些剪秃的要早苏醒1个月，这样养分积累多，冬天开花也就变多了！ 风信子如何休眠度夏？ 现在不少花友家的风信子都开败了，甚至连绿色的叶子都干枯了，这就是要休眠了！ [图片]度夏方法： 1、剪掉花箭 如果是土培的风信子，开花后将花箭剪掉，大概从花箭一半以上的位置开始剪掉，然后加点磷钾肥，让叶片继续生长，为种球继续养分。 2、种球挖出来 随着气温升高，风信子的叶片会不断枯萎，此时停水10-15天，等到叶子全都枯黄后，将种球挖出来，将花茎和发黄的叶片、根系剪掉，然后在多菌灵溶液中浸泡40分钟左右。 3、找一个干燥的塑料袋，将晾干的风信子种球放进去，不要封口，然后放在阴凉通风的地方，比如冰箱的冷藏室就可以。为了防止潮湿，还可以加入锯末。大概2-3个月就够了。 4、等到10月份的时候，将风信子从冰箱拿出来，重新种植即可，这样就可以让风信子复花了。 倒挂金钟如何休眠度夏？ 虽然倒挂金钟开花好看，而且很容易爆盆，但是天气一热基本就撑不住了。不少花友纷纷跟花花说，家里的倒挂金钟都挂了好几盆了 [图片]度夏方法： 1、修剪枝条 倒挂金钟特别怕热，随着夏季温度逐渐增高，特别是30℃以后，基本上就开始休眠了。此时可以将枝条剪短，从枝条上6个芽点向上全都剪掉。 2、减少浇水 将倒挂金钟放到北边阳台或窗台上，避免太阳直射，避免雨淋，同时减少浇水，保证盆土略微干燥。 3、停止施肥 25℃以上停止施肥。因为施肥会导致新枝徒长，进而造成度夏难的现象。 4、扦插小苗 虽然倒挂金钟不容易度夏，但是刚刚扦插的小苗却比较耐高温，所以在度夏之前，可以用枝条扦插小苗，避免母株因为度夏不成功死掉。 长寿花如何休眠度夏？ 从过年开始，长寿花就一茬茬开花不断，如今天气热了终于要进入休眠期了。 [图片]度夏方法： 1、避免直射 温度一超过30℃，长寿花就开始进入休眠期了，此时可以将长寿花放在光线明亮的客厅、北阳台等通风好的地方，避免直射太阳。 2、减少浇水 进入休眠期的长寿花生长缓慢或停滞，浇水一定要减少。平常摸到距离盆土表面2-3cm的土壤干透了后再浇水，盆内千万别积水。休眠期停止施肥。 蟹爪兰如何休眠度夏？ 跟长寿花一样，一到天气炎热的时候，蟹爪兰也要开始进入休眠期了。 [图片]度夏方法： 1、注意修剪 为了防止蟹爪兰度夏死掉，一定要在度夏前进行修剪，将那些密不透风的枝条剪掉，让蟹爪兰整个整株都透风。 2、遮阴通风 将蟹爪兰放在北阳台或室内通风处，如果放在东、西阳台，一定要注意遮阴，避免太阳直射。 3、减少浇水 蟹爪兰休眠期，注意保证盆土表面干燥，大概半个月浇1次水。注意千万别淋雨，如果温度特别高，一定要注意在花盆周围喷水。 多肉如何休眠度夏？ 对于那些冬型种的多肉来说，一到夏天就进入了休眠状态，基本上不再长个了。 [图片]度夏方法： 1、注意遮阴 像是黑法师、月兔耳、山地玫瑰…一到夏天都会进入休眠期，此时必须要注意遮阴，将多肉放在阴凉通风的地方养护。 2、减少浇水 为了防止多肉休眠期积水死亡，必须要减少浇水量，让盆土处在略微干燥的状态，大概10-15天浇1次水即可。 天竺葵如何休眠度夏？ 家里的温度持续在30℃的时候，家里的天竺葵就到了要休眠的时候了，此时各位花友一定得注意了！ [图片]度夏方法： 1、保证干燥 保证盆土表面处于干燥的状态，浇水的时候，从盆沿慢慢浇下去，千万不能饿沾到叶片和茎干上。 2、停止操作 从5月开始，像是什么换盆、重剪或是整形修剪枝条之类的操作，全部停止，不要再操作了。 3、夏季不休眠的补充肥料 大花天竺葵和天使品种夏季不会因为炎热休眠，对于这种夏季疯长的花来说，必须要给予稀释的肥料，促使天竺葵开花更多。 花花今天就介绍到这里了。 各位花友一定要重视起来哦， 不然家里的花死翘翘了， 可就特别心疼了！
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权问薇
2018年08月31日
权问薇
非洲紫罗兰 非洲紫罗兰，又名非洲堇，品种繁多，花色鲜艳，花型多样，只要养护得当就可以保持常年开花。 [图片]养护要点： 1、非洲紫罗兰较为耐阴，平时放到有明亮散射光的地方养护即可。 2、非洲紫罗兰的浇水周期为7天左右。 3、非洲紫罗兰喜欢疏松肥沃的土壤，可以按照腐叶土：园土：腐熟厩肥土=5：3：2的比例来配制土壤。 朱瑾花 朱瑾花也叫扶桑花，是一种常见的热带花卉，只要温度适宜，它就能全年开花。 [图片]养护要点： 1、朱瑾花喜全阳，光照越充足它生长得越健壮，但是夏季中午光照过于强烈时要注意适当遮阴。 2、朱瑾花较为耐旱，春秋一般2~3天浇1次水即可。 3、朱瑾花喜欢生长在疏松肥沃、排水性良好的微酸性壤土中，可按照园土：砂壤土：腐熟的 有机肥料=3:2:2的比例也配制土壤。 红掌 红掌开花特别的灿烂，红色的花苞看起来像是涂上了亮彩，让人移不开眼。 [图片]养护要点： 1、红掌喜光但是被阳光直射可能会烧叶，平时最好把红掌放在阴凉处，接受明亮的散射光。 2、红掌浇水的时间间隔各个季节都有所不同。春秋3~4天浇1次即可。 3、红掌的养殖要注意温度，温度最好保持在18℃~28℃。夏季温度高时要注意通风洒水。 朱顶红 朱顶红品种繁多，花色艳丽，花型靓丽，在室内养上一盆，非常养眼。 [图片]养护要点： 1、朱顶红较喜光，可以适当的给予阳光直射，但是不可以太久。 2、朱顶红喜肥，叶子长到5~6cm的时候，每15天左右施1次腐熟的饼肥水，花开后改为每20天左右施1次。 3、夏季朱顶红即将休眠，将种球放在阴凉通风的地方即可。 秋海棠 秋海棠品种多样，非常适合在室内栽种，只要养护得当就能保持常年开花。 [图片]养护要点： 1、秋海棠对光照比较敏感，不能被阳光直射。一般适合散射光下生长，在强光下易造成叶片灼伤。 2、秋海棠的生长适温为19℃~24℃，夏季一定要注意遮阴，否则很容易晒伤。 3、秋海棠喜欢疏松肥沃的土壤，盆栽秋海棠的常用的土壤有堆肥土、腐叶土和炭土。 花花介绍的这几种花大家喜欢吗？ 你是不是也养过呢？ 还没养的快动起手来养一盆吧！
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Miss Chen
2018年08月31日
Miss Chen
Sometimes called purple queen, purple heart (Setcreasea pallida) is a low-growing tender perennial grown for its showy violet leaves and sprawling, dark-purple stems. It grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 7 through 11 and it's usually used as a ground cover or container plant. Purple heart needs little care, but providing some general maintenance will keep it looking its best. [图片]Seasonal Watering Although highly drought-tolerant once established, purple heart will look tidier and more lush if it gets regular water in summer. Water it weekly from spring until fall, providing 1 inch of water each time. Allow the soil to dry out on the surface between waterings to keep the roots healthy. During times of extreme heat or drought, increase watering to twice weekly if the soil is drying out faster than normal. Reduce watering to once every two weeks in winter and provide no water during rainy weather. Pot-grown purple hearts should also be watered whenever the soil dries on the surface. Water until the excess flows from the drainage holes of the pot. Always use pots with drainage holes for this plant. Fertilizer Needs Purple heart uses its soil nutrients efficiently and requires little supplemental fertilizer. Potted plants or those grown in poor or especially fast-draining soil may need a boost of nutrients during the active growing season to enhance their lush, violet foliage. Dissolve 1/2 teaspoon of general-purpose, 15-15-15 ratio fertilizer in 1 gallon of water. Apply the solution monthly and watch for pale or washed out-looking foliage, which is a sign of overfeeding. Reduce feeding to once every two months if the purple heart's foliage turns pale or if it starts producing an abundance of leggy, weedy growth. Pruning and Grooming Among purple heart's most positive attributes is its gracefully trailing habit and vigorous growth. This is also one of its greatest drawbacks because can quickly overtake a bed or produce spindly, unattractive growth if left unpruned. Pruning purple heart should be done in spring or early summer just after it finishes flowering. Remove up to two-thirds of the growth to promote a fuller, bushier appearance and encourage more blooming. Before pruning, soak your shears in a solution of equal parts water and rubbing alcohol or full-strength household disinfectant for five minutes and then rinse the blades. The pruned stems can be discarded in a green waste can or used to propagate new purple heart plants. Considerations Purple heart doesn't have serious pest or disease issues if it is grown under the right conditions, making it a smart choice for a low-maintenance yard. But it does have some significant drawbacks that may cause issues in your garden. Its vigorous growth may become invasive in warm, frost-free climates. Keeping it pruned helps limit its spread, but it may also require inorganic mulch or an underground root barrier to keep its roots from spreading. Another issue with purple heart is its foliage, which may irritate the skin. Growing it in a pot will address both concerns, as long as the pot is kept away from where people might accidentally brush against it.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月31日
Miss Chen
Contrary to its name, reindeer moss is not a moss at all but a lichen that grows on rocks and in the sandy soil on the outcroppings of the forest. It was named after reindeer because it is a favored treat for reindeer and caribou in northern regions. Reindeer moss tends to be hearty and requires little care to thrive, however you will need to set the proper conditions in your garden if you plan to grow it. [图片]Step 1 Water reindeer moss lightly during dry seasons. Most mosses and lichens that grow naturally require little in the way of watering, as they tend to store water. If you plant reindeer moss in your moss garden and it is not natural to your area, you may need to water it regularly during droughts to keep it from drying out. Step 2 Keep it shaded. Reindeer moss is a lichen, which is an algae and fungus combination that thrives on cool weather and shade. If planting reindeer moss, make sure you find a place that receives little sunlight. Step 3 Provide your reindeer moss with good quality air. Reindeer moss does not grow roots, and draws minimal nourishment from host plants like trees. It depends on the air for almost all of its nutrients, and will not sustain itself in highly polluted areas. [图片]Step 4 Avoid allowing animals to nibble at your reindeer moss. Reindeer moss is a slow-growing lichen species that can take up to 30 years to regrow if the top layer is damaged.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月31日
Miss Chen
Blue flowers are hard to find in the garden -- most lean toward purple hues. However, Evolvulus glomeratus "Blue Daze" is aptly named: The low-growing, herbaceous perennial features true-blue flowers that stand out against the attractive, olive-green leaves. Perfect for borders or containers, "Blue Daze" blooms all summer long when cared for properly. [图片]Climate and Temperatures "Blue Daze" is a warmth-loving plant. It is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 11. In cooler climates, it is often grown as an annual or in a container that is brought indoors for the winter. Situate this plant where it will stay nice and warm. In fact, if you have a hot spot in your garden where other plants wilt, replace those plants with this flower -- "Blue Daze" likes it hot. It can even tolerate salty conditions, so if you're near the coast, plant this flower in a hanging container and watch it withstand the salty air. Most outdoor plants die at the first hint of freezing temperatures, so bring container plants indoors well before cool fall temperatures arise. Some "Blue Daze" plants can tolerate a light frost if they are surrounded by a thick layer of mulch. Light and Location For "Blue Daze" to bloom properly, it needs full sunlight. Each flower opens for only one day, but it is replaced by a new flower the next day. If the day is cloudy or the plant is shaded, the flower won't open and its brief life is wasted. Locate these plants -- including those grown in containers -- where they will get as much hot, direct sunlight as possible. As far as soil goes, "Blue Daze" tolerates a range of soils, including poor or sandy soil, as long as it is well drained. If you bring a container indoors for the winter, locate it in bright but indirect sunlight and in a cool location. Food and Water Because "Blue Daze" is such a prolific bloomer, it benefits from monthly applications of fertilizer during the growing season. Use a bloom-boosting 15-30-15 formulation, water-soluble fertilizer once a month, following the instructions for application on the package. These instructions vary depending on the brand, but in general, dilute 1 tablespoon of the fertilizer in 1 gallon of water and use this solution to water your plants. Because "Blue Daze" thrives in full, hot sunlight, it needs frequent watering. Water when the surface of the soil feels dry to the touch and frequently enough so that the soil is almost continually but barely moist. In the winter, they need little watering. [图片]Pests and Problems "Blue Daze" is a hardy plant. It does not suffer from serious pest or disease problems. The one thing it cannot tolerate is soggy soil. Extended periods of rain cause fungal problems to develop in the soil, which quickly destroy the shallow roots of the plant. Overwatering leads to the same result, as does poorly drained soils. Plants grown in containers should have drainage holes in the base to prevent this problem, and home gardeners should avoid planting "Blue Daze" in depressions or other locations that tend to collect water.
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