动态第135页 - 绿手指 - 养花技巧、花生病了怎么办、花园打理和设计

2018年09月08日

The plant commonly called vinca (Catharanthus roseus) grows as a short, upright bush, covered in small pink or magenta flowers. It grows as a perennial in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 11 but can be treated as a summer annual elsewhere. Vinca's close cousins, greater periwinkle (Vinca major), which grows in USDA zones 7 through 9, and common periwinkle (Vinca minor), which grows in USDA zones 4 through 9, can become invasive, but vinca doesn't usually spread beyond its garden bed. Care Basics [图片]Vinca flowers best in full sun. Although it can tolerate partial shade, too much shade inhibits flowering and results in sparse foliage. Trailing varieties can spread more than 18 inches wide, creating a sprawling ground cover, but most have a bushy form. Vinca can readily self-seed, even in areas where it usually grows as an annual, so plant it in beds where you plan to continue growing it or remove the seedlings when you see them. Watering Needs [图片]Drought-tolerant vinca survives even with infrequent watering. Water the soil only during extended dry periods if the plants begin to wilt even at night, otherwise rainfall and water from nearby areas of the yard will provide enough water. Vinca leaves may curl and appear wilted during the day when it's hot and dry, but they don't need additional water if they still unfurl during the cooler nights. Applying a 2-inch layer of mulch over the bare soil surrounding the plants conserves soil moisture and further minimizes the need for watering. Pull mulch back so it doesn't rest against the base of the vinca plants. Regular Maintenance [图片]Once established, vinca doesn't require much care. If the plant looks sparse, cut back stems to encourage branching and new growth. Wipe the shears with a rubbing alcohol-soaked cloth before making a cut to disinfect them. Vinca also doesn't require deadheading, dropping its blooms naturally after the flower wilts. Light fertilization once a month during the spring and summer growing season helps keep the plants healthy. Water with an all-purpose soluble fertilizer. For example, 1 tablespoon of a 24-8-16 blend mixed with 1 gallon of water provides enough to feed 10 square feet of vinca plants. Common Problems [图片]Most vinca problems come from too much moisture or improper watering. Stem and root rot, fungal leaf spots and botrytis blight are most common in wet, overwatered beds or from wet foliage. Avoid overhead watering and keep water from splashing onto the leaves to prevent most diseases. Aphids may sometimes feed on the plant, but you can rinse them off with a blast of water from the garden hose. When rinsing off aphids, do so in the morning so the leaves dry before nightfall.

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Miss Chen

2018年09月08日

Adenium obesum, commonly called desert rose, stands out among other desert plants with its trumpet-shaped flowers and gray, elephantine trunk. It adds a splash of color and visual interest to low-water gardens where few other flowering shrubs thrive. Desert rose requires minimal upkeep and care. The plant must be grown under the right conditions and provided with care early on so it thrives. Climate and Temperature [图片]Desert rose comes from the arid climates of eastern Africa and the Arabian peninsula. As a result, it tolerates extreme heat well and is intolerant of cold weather. Desert rose performs best in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10a through 12, where temperatures stay reliably above 33 degrees Fahrenheit. In warmer climates, desert rose blooms and retains its leathery, dark green foliage year-round, but it may enter dormancy if nighttime temperatures dip below 40 F or if daytime temperatures stay below 64 F. Cover outdoor plants if cold weather if forecast and move potted desert roses indoors, if possible. Sunlight and Soil [图片]Full sun and fast-draining soil are key to successfully growing a desert rose. An unshaded south-facing bed with at least 4 square feet of space is best for garden growing, although the soil must be porous with a moderate nutrient content. Grow desert rose in a container in marginal areas where winter cold snaps are common. Repot the plant every two years into a shallow, slightly larger pot to force vertical growth and show off the plant's unusual swollen trunk. Use a mixture of standard potting soil amended with one-third coarse sand to strike the right balance between nutrient content and drainage. Use a pot with drainage holes. Seasonal Watering [图片]The watering needs of a desert rose vary significantly throughout the year. Water weekly during the late spring and summer, providing roughly 1 inch of water each time. Increase water by one-half during especially hot or windy weather to prevent dehydration, but always allow the soil to dry out completely between waterings to prevent root rot. The plant needs little to no supplemental water during autumn and winter, especially in years with normal rainfall. Only provide water during the colder months if no rain falls for longer than two weeks. For a pot-grown desert rose, provide just enough water during the winter to keep it from shriveling. Nutrient Needs [图片]The desert rose is an efficient feeder and it doesn't generally need fertilizer. Its nutrient needs vary according to age and growing conditions. Most desert rose plants grow quickly during their first three to five years and will quickly exhaust the nutrient supply of their soil if it isn't supplemented. A pot-grown desert rose may have a similar issue, although it is ongoing throughout its life. Dissolve 1/4 teaspoon of 15-15-15 or 7-9-5 ratio fertilizer in 1 gallon of water. Water the plant with the mixture every two weeks. Apply the fertilizer solution only during the spring and summer, and always apply it to moist soil to prevent root burn. Toxic Sap [图片]Desert rose has a few drawbacks. The most significant consideration to make before growing it in your garden is the potential danger of the toxic sap. Desert rose exudes a watery, slightly sticky sap from its leaves, stems and flowers when it is pruned or damaged. The sap contains glycosides that can cause an irregular heartbeat or possibly kill someone who eats parts of the plant. People and pets are both affected by the toxic elements in desert rose sap, so don't grow the plant where curious children or pets play.

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Miss Chen

2018年09月08日

Large flowers in bright, bold colors make gerbera daisy (Gerbera jamesonii) a show-stopper in garden displays. Also called Barberton daisy, African daisy and Transvaal daisy, gerbera daisy is perennial outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11 but is often grown as an annual. It also grows well indoors. A gerbera daisy plant performs best in well-drained soil that is rich in organic matter and in a full-sun site, but it needs afternoon shade in a hot climate. Feeding and Watering an Outdoor Plant [图片]An outdoor gerbera daisy needs regular feeding to flower well, but it should be watered infrequently to avoid crown rot. Feed your gerbera daisy with a water-soluble, 24-8-16 fertilizer diluted at a rate of 1 tablespoon per 1 gallon of water, which feeds 10 square feet of plants. Apply the solution every two weeks while the gerbera daisy flowers, or dilute and apply the fertilizer according to the instructions on its label. In wet conditions, gerbera daisy suffers from crown rot, which affects its base. Help your plant avoid that disease by watering your gerbera daisy when its soil is dry to a depth of 1 inch. If you water and feed the plant at the same time, then apply the fertilizer first. Don't apply only fertilizer if the ground is dry. Feed and water the gerbera at the plant's base, and never from above, to help avoid leaf diseases. Deadheading and Dividing [图片]Deadheading encourages a gerbera daisy plant to produce more flowers, and dividing an outdoor plant helps keep it healthy. Deadheading, which is removing flowers as they fade, improves the plant's appearance and encourages a long blooming period. Wipe pruning shear blades with rubbing alcohol, and use the tool to prune fading flowers at their stem bases. Sterilizing the pruning shears again is necessary after you finish pruning. If you grow your outdoor gerbera daisy as a perennial, lift and divide it in the spring of the plant's third year. Do so by pushing a garden fork into the soil about 4 inches from the plant's base, and gently lever the plant out of its soil. Pull the plant's base into three or four equal sections, and plant the sections 1 foot apart and about 1/2 inch higher than the original growing depth. Controlling Pests and Diseases [图片]Aphids, mites, thrips and whiteflies attack gerbera daisy, and the plant also suffers from leaf spots, rots and viruses. Aphids are small insects that cluster at shoot tips and on the undersides of leaves. Mites look like tiny moving dots, and thrips are tiny, very slim insects. Whiteflies are small, white, flying insects. Favorable growing conditions and good-quality care are the gerbera daisy's best defenses against pests and diseases, and you also can control minor problems by pinching off affected shoots. On a cloudy day, spray an outdoor gerbera daisy heavily infested with pests with a ready-to-use insecticidal soap containing 1 percent potassium salts of fatty acids. This spray also can be used on an indoor gerbera daisy. Spray the plant once each week as needed, covering all its foliage but avoiding its flowers. Dig up an outdoor gerbera daisy heavily infested with leaf spots, rots or viruses, and put it in the trash. Tending an Indoor Plant [图片]Gerbera daisy can grow well as an indoor plant for two to three years. Grow your gerbera daisy in a peat moss-based potting compost in a container with bottom drainage holes and a drip tray. Place the container in a bright spot that receives no more than one to two hours of direct sunlight each day, and water the plant when its potting compost is dry to a depth of 1 1/2 inches. Allow that material to drain thoroughly before returning the container to its drip tray. Keep the plant's location at 40 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit while the plant is in flower, and feed the gerbera daisy every two weeks with a liquid 24-8-16 fertilizer diluted at a rate of 1/2 teaspoon per 1 gallon of water. You can replace water with the fertilizer solution if the plant needs watering. Pour the solution slowly onto the potting compost surface until it runs out of the plant container's drainage holes, and allow the plant to drain thoroughly before putting the container back on its drip tray.

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Miss Chen

2018年09月07日

Hosta plants (also known as plantain lilies) are herbaceous perennials that die down in the winter months and reemerge in the spring with new growth. There are a wide variety to choose from. Hostas are shade-loving plants that grow from bulbs (or tubers). Planting them is fairly easy. [图片]Step 1 Purchase hosta bulbs from your local nursery or from online sources (see Resources below). Read all the packaging instructions before deciding where to put your hostas. Some varieties do require some sunshine during the day. Hosta plants with a blue hue generally require more shade than some of the other types. They can be planted at any time of year, but springtime is best, when new roots are being formed. Step 2 Prepare the planting area soil. Although the hosta is an easy plant to grow and maintain, starting with the proper soil conditions will give your plant an extra boost. The soil should be well drained, with a pH of 5.5 to 6.5. Step 3 Plant the hosta bulbs 12 inches or more apart and at the ground level where the shoots first emerge. Of course, the root end of the bulb should be placed down into the ground. Gently fill the area surrounding the bulb with soil and then pack lightly at ground level. [图片]Step 4 Water your hosta bulbs often, approximately an inch of water per week. Always check with packaging directions, as some of larger-leafed varieties require more water. Fertilize at 6-week intervals through the spring and summer months with a 10-10-10 fertilizer.

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Miss Chen

2018年09月07日

If you grow perennials that include either the purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea or Rudbeckia purpurea) or the yellow coneflower (Ratibida pinnata), then you'd probably like to keep the plants blooming as long as possible and also keep them looking neat and tidy. These two plants respond well to pruning early in the growing season to promote bushiness and extend flowering, and they can be trimmed later in the growing season and when fall arrives. Both coneflowers are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 9. [图片]Trimming for Bushy Plants A coneflower plant is usually 2 to 5 feet tall and tends to have a narrow growth habit of 1 1/2 to 2 feet wide. It starts putting out new stems in spring, when weather warms, and doesn't bloom for many weeks, usually opening flowers from midsummer through early fall. Promote a more bushy, compact growth habit in coneflower plants by trimming back each stem by one-half in late spring; doing so prompts branching of the stems and growth of new stems from each plant's base. Trimming this way early also allows the plants enough time to set flower buds, although their blooms may begin to appear a bit later than normal, usually in September. You also can extend your coneflower bed's blooming period by cutting back some but not all of your plants in spring, leaving the others not pruned. The latter should bloom at the normal time, starting in midsummer, while the pruned group's flowering will be delayed until early fall. When trimming, use sharp shears, and clean its blades by wiping them with rubbing alcohol before you begin trimming and after each cut. This sterilization helps prevent the spread of plant diseases. Deadheading for Tidiness When flowers fade on a coneflower plant, removing the spent blooms -- called deadheading -- helps improve the plant's appearance. Use your fingertips to pinch off flower stems just ahead of the point where a leaf originates on the stem behind the flower, or cut at that point with sterilized shears. The plant may produce new buds after it has been deadheaded, although the second bloom period is usually reduced. If you want your coneflower planting to expand, allow some self-seeding by leaving a few flowers on the plants to form seeds, which eventually will drop to the ground and produce new plants the next growing season. [图片]Cleaning Up in Fall Like all herbaceous perennials, coneflowers eventually die back to the ground when winter arrives, leaving dry stems and foliage. You can leave the plants in place during winter, but cutting back their dry upper parts with sterilized tools helps improve the appearance of the flowerbed while getting rid of any remaining insects and their eggs. Remove and dispose of all cuttings when you do fall cleanup. If winter temperatures drop below freezing where you live, then wait until the first frost to cut back the plants to prevent new growth that is easily damaged by cold.

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Miss Chen

2018年09月07日

Coneflowers (Echinacea spp.) are colorful perennials that attract birds and butterflies to your yard or garden. Coneflowers grow in shades of pink, purple, orange, yellow and white. These daisy-like flowers have a puffy central head that protrudes upward as the petals fold back. Coneflowers are native throughout eastern and central North America, growing in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 9. Caring for hybrid coneflowers with regular deadheading, shearing once each season and dividing as needed will reward you with blooms for years to come. [图片]When to Fertilize Fertilize coneflowers in the spring as new growth appears with a fertilizer low in nitrogen like a 5-10-5 blend. Spread a small handful evenly around the plant, being sure that the product doesn't touch the plant. Apply two more applications at six week intervals and always water the fertilizer into the ground after applying. Coneflowers do not require heavy feeding; a spring mulch of rich compost helps smother weeds and provides a slow release of nutrients into the soil. While native varieties are not particular about soil type, coneflowers respond to loamy or sandy soil that drains well. Watering Water coneflowers regularly during the first growing season to help establish healthy root systems. Mature coneflowers are drought resistant, preferring an open area in full sun, but consistent watering can improve blooming throughout a hot, dry summer. Few Pest Problems Check the plants regularly for signs of insect damage. Although coneflowers are pest-resistant, leaf miners and Japanese beetles sometimes attack the leaves and flowers, and vine weevils may attack the roots. Dust the plants with diatomaceous earth or spray with a ready-to-use insecticidal soap to control insects. Powdery mildew, bacterial leaf spots and gray mold may be problems, especially in humid areas. Treat with a ready-to-use copper-based fungicide following the manufacturer's directions. Cover the entire foliage with the fungicide. Overhead watering can be a cause of disease spread; drip-irrigation or a soaker hose helps control soil-borne and airborne diseases by reducing splashing. Remove diseased parts of the plant when you deadhead and dispose of them by burning or in a trash collection container. Keep diseased plant material out of the compost pile and away from healthy plants. Care in the Growing Season Deadhead the coneflowers during the spring and early summer to encourage new growth in middle to late summer. Cut off spent blooms with garden shears as the petals begin to brown, wiping the blades with alcohol wipes between cuts to prevent the spread of disease. Cut out any dead or browning leaves to encourage fresh greenery later in the season. Leave the last spent coneflowers to dry on the plants in the fall -- the seed heads provide food for migrating and over-wintering birds and will reseed into the garden. [图片]Shear coneflowers back to about one-third of their growth during the early summer to encourage bushy growth later in the season. Shearing a plant means to cut and remove most of the greenery and all of the spent blooms and stems. If you're deadheading and pruning a large number of plants, mix nine parts water with one part household liquid bleach in a bucket, and dip the pruners in the solution between cuts to disinfect the blades. Divide and Transplant Divide mature coneflower clumps in the spring before growth begins, or in early fall after blooming is finished. Lift the plant from the ground completely with a shovel or spading fork, being careful not to damage the roots. Set the plant on the ground with the crown facing up. Place the tip of a sharp shovel at the top of the soil and between the center leaves of the coneflower plant. Push down with the shovel to cut the plant in half. Replant one half back into the hole where it was removed, and transplant the other half in a new location. Water both new coneflower plants after dividing and transplanting. Alternatively, you may cut a large clump into several sections with a sharp shovel or a knife and transplant the sections. Sterilize the blade after each cut. Plant coneflowers as a border along a walkway or as part of a perennial cutting garden and watch the birds enjoy the seed heads.

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Miss Chen

2018年09月07日

Considered one of the top perennials for fall color, "Autumn Joy" sedum (Sedum x "Autumn Joy") grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 9. Once you have one sedum, it's easy to make more by taking stem and leaf cuttings or dividing the plant. Because "Autumn Joy" is a hybrid, seeds will not produce exact copies of the parent plant. [图片]Cut Stems or Leaves "Autumn Joy" sedum roots easily from stem or leaf cuttings. You can do this any time the plants are actively growing. Cuttings taken from new growth root more easily than cuttings from older stems. Take cuttings in the early morning or late afternoon, and water the plants one hour before you take the cuttings. Make stem cuttings 2 to 6 inches long, with at least three sets of leaves. Cut the stem just below the node where a leaf joins the stem. For leaf cuttings, remove the leaf along with the stalk that attaches the leaf to the stem. To keep them from drying out before planting, place stem and leaf cuttings in water or in a plastic bag with a damp paper towel. Use sharp scissors or pruners to take the cuttings. Disinfect cutting tools by soaking them in a solution of 1 part bleach to 3 parts water for 5 minutes. Rinse them in clean water, and let them air-dry before use. Plant Cuttings Cuttings root best in a sterile, soilless potting mix. You can use a purchased seed-starting mix, or make your own for rooting cuttings by mixing equal parts river sand, perlite, and either vermiculite or peat moss. Use this mix to fill pots or planting trays with drainage holes. Water the potting mix so it is damp, and smooth the surface. To avoid spreading disease, plant in new pots and planting trays or sterilize used pots before filling them with soil. Clean used pots and trays by scrubbing away any loose dirt, then soaking them in a solution of 1 part bleach to 9 parts water for 30 minutes. Wipe them dry before use. Always use pots and containers that have drainage holes. [图片]For stem cuttings, use sterilized scissors or pruners to clip off the lowest set of leaves. If there are any flower buds on the cutting, remove those as well. Use a pencil to poke a hole in the potting mix, then place the cutting in the hole, firming the potting mix around the cutting so the place where you cut the leaves off is covered. For leaf cuttings, cover about 1/4 inch of the stem-end of the leaf with potting mix. There is no need to use a rooting hormone on "Autumn Joy" sedum cuttings. Keep Them Moist Cover the cuttings with clear plastic bags to help keep them from drying out. Some planting trays come with clear plastic domes which makes it easy to keep humidity levels high. The cuttings still need air circulation, though, so make sure there is space between the plastic and the pot or tray. Don't let the plastic touch the plant leaves. Mist the cuttings as needed to keep the soil from drying out. You want the soil to stay moist, but not waterlogged. After two weeks, check if the stem cuttings are rooting by gently lifting the stem. If it comes free of the soil easily, replant it and check again in another week. Keep checking until the cuttings stay rooted in the soil when you gently tug at the stem. You can tell leaf cuttings have rooted when new leaves start to emerge from the base of the leaf. Once the new stem or leaf cuttings have roots, gradually decrease the humidity by leaving the plastic off for several hours each day. Move the Sedums Outside The best time to plant new "Autumn Joy" sedum is in the spring after danger of frost has passed, but this plant is not picky about planting time. If you take cuttings in spring, the resulting plants can still be planted outdoors in the summer or fall. Mature plants reach 12 to 24 inches tall, and they should be spaced 12 to 18 inches apart. A spot in full-sun is best, and "Autumn Joy" sedum will grow in any soil type as long as it drains well. Sedum is highly drought-tolerant, but water once a week for the first year if there is no rain. This encourages deep rooting. Divide Established Plants Once "Autumn Joy" sedum is established, divide the clumps every three to five years. This is an easy way to get new plants and to keep the sedum from becoming crowded. Divide the sedum in the spring, as soon as new growth starts to emerge from the soil. Choose an overcast day, preferably with light rain in the forecast. Water the plants the day before you plan to divide the plant. Use a sharp spade to dig around the entire sedum clump, about 4 to 6 inches away from the base of the plant. Lift the entire clump, and shake off loose soil so you can see the root system better. Sedums form clumps, and you many need to use a sharp, large knife to divide the clump and cut through the roots. Sterilize this knife before use the same way you sterilized the pruning tools. Replant the divisions as soon as possible. If you must delay planting, place the sedum in the shade and keep the soil moist. When you plant the new divisions, place them at the same depth they were previously growing. Firm the soil around the plants, and water thoroughly.

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Miss Chen

2018年09月07日

Delicate pale blue, or sometimes white and pink, forget-me-nots are a welcome sight after a long, snowy winter. Establishing forget-me-knots in your garden or yard is an easy task with great rewards. Forget-me-nots produce fantasy-like clouds of light blue that can provide quite a show-stopping display. They are a hardy perennial that will spread throughout your garden with very little effort on your part. [图片]Step 1 Place potting soil in pots or six-pack inserts. Gently press the soil into the pot, but do not pack it too hard. Step 2 Gently pour seeds from a packet into your hand. Forget-me-not seeds are very small; provided they are fresh, more than 90-percent of the seeds should germinate. Pinch a small amount of seeds and sprinkle them on top of the potting soil. Step 3 Sprinkle more potting soil on top of the seeds so that there is about 1/8 inch of soil over the seeds. Press down to make sure the seeds have good contact with the soil, but do not pack the soil too hard. Step 4 Water the soil. If your pots are in a cool location, cover them with plastic wrap to trap in heat, which aids in germination. The seeds should germinate within ten days. Let them grow for two weeks before transplanting them outdoors. Step 5 Dig holes in the soil where you wish to transplant your forget-me-nots. Gently remove the plants from the six-pack plant pots and set them into the holes. Add soil around the stems and press lightly around the plants. Water only when your plants droop. [图片]Step 6 Spread established forget-me-nots. Walk through the flowers as they begin to die off (in mid-June), and gently kick the plants to loosen and spread the seeds. You can also pull up a clump of flowers and shake them over areas where you would like to grow forget-me-nots the following year.

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Miss Chen

2018年09月07日

榆树成片地长虫子，大片的虫子不仅将树叶啃食干净，更有一些虫子飞到居民家里、趴在窗户上，这是榆绿毛萤叶甲虫的幼虫。一般成片趴在榆树的树干上，成虫则会将整棵榆树的叶子吃光，仅留叶脉，严重危害榆树，但这种虫子对人体没有影响。 [图片]榆绿毛萤叶甲虫幼虫的繁殖能力较强，出现的数量也较多。今年高温天气出现得较早，五六月份的降雨量少，导致树木病虫害高发。但事实上，虫害并未结束。榆绿毛萤叶甲虫在首府一年发生两代，一般情况，4月下旬开始在叶上产卵，5月上旬幼虫开始为害，6月上旬老熟幼虫群集在榆树枝干伤疤等处化蛹，7月上旬羽化出成虫，进入第一次危害高峰期，并大量飞入公共场所和居民家中。羽化较早的成虫可继续产卵繁殖，8月末第二代幼虫群集化蛹，9月末进入第二次成虫危害高峰期。所以虫害的情况将会持续到9月底10月初。 [图片]驱虫小妙招，虽然不能杀死虫子，但是可以用药效驱赶虫子。第1招：用花椒、大料驱赶。这个方法很简单，就是利用虫子不喜欢花椒、大料气味的特点，赶跑它们。第2招：将白鲜皮、山奈、陈皮、花椒碾成粉，放入袋子中，熏跑虫子，或是将粉末用水稀释，喷洒在窗子上。

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Miss Chen

2018年09月07日

球根海棠，花不仅大而且还多，色彩非常的艳丽，它的姿态让人看起来很优美。根据小编所知该植株自身兼有像茶花、牡丹、月季等这些名花的姿、色、香。与其他植株一样，它性也喜欢既温润又通风良好的半荫蔽环境下生长。球根秋海棠是世界重要盆栽花卉之一。 [图片]早在1880年，法国人莱莫因和弗罗皮尔以南美安第斯地区的球根类秋海棠为亲本，经杂交选育出美丽多姿的水仙型和多花型球根秋海棠。1960年美国又选育出具茶花型和康乃馨型的巴利里纳球根秋海棠，其花径达15～20厘米。1978年比利时的黑格曼专门为育种者编著了一本球根秋海棠栽培品种的国际文献目录。目前，球根秋海棠的栽培十分普遍，美国列为主要盆栽花卉之一，每年生产量不少。日本1993年生产了610万盆球根海棠，产值达到2400万美元，每年还举办球根秋海棠展览。朝鲜对红色的球根秋海棠特别重视，栽培也较为普遍，在昆明世界园艺博览会上展示了球根秋海棠。在欧洲的荷兰、比利时、法国、德国和丹麦等国，都已产业化栽培球根秋海棠，荷兰1995年球根秋海棠的产值为2760万美元，列盆栽花卉的第四位。在丹麦占出口盆栽花卉的第五位。其中球根秋海棠的种球生产以美国的加利福尼亚州和比利时的根脱最为有名。我国引种栽培球根秋海棠的历史不长，主要在新中国成立后，各地的植物园从国外引种种子，进行小规模试种，其中以昆明地区栽培比较成功。至今，球根秋海棠已进入规模化生产。 [图片]形态特征与品种球根秋海棠为多年生草本。块茎肉质，扁圆形。茎肉质，有毛、直立。叶大，互生，倒心脏形。花大，有单瓣、半重瓣和重瓣，花色丰富，有红、白、黄、粉、橙等。常见品种有直达（Nonstop）系列，重瓣花，花色有红、深红、鲜红、玫瑰红、黄、杏黄、白、粉红等，生长快，开花早，从播种至开花只需4个月，是目前球根秋海棠市场的领先品种。另外有全景（Panorama）、半夜美（MidnightBeauty）、炫耀天使（ShowAngels）等系列。命运（Fortune）杂种1代系列，为大花、重瓣品种，广泛用在花坛、窗台、吊盆和栽植箱观赏。光亮（Illumination）系列，花色有红、白、黄、粉等，花径7～8厘米，重瓣花，主要用于篮式栽培。挂觉（HangingSensations），花色有黄、白、深红、玫瑰红，花柄长、下垂，是吊盆观赏的主要品种。

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