动态第143页 - 绿手指 - 养花技巧、花生病了怎么办、花园打理和设计

2018年08月29日

Fragrant lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) supplies year-round garden interest, with aromatic flowers in summer and gray-green evergreen foliage. The small shrubs grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 9, where they thrive with very little maintenance beyond pruning. The right time and method for pruning depends on the age of the plant and the type of trim it needs. Spring Pruning [图片]New plants need to be pruned in spring when new green growth has appeared. Spring pruning prevents flowering but encourages branching, allowing the new lavender to develop strong roots and a full framework of branches. Before pruning, wipe the shears with a cloth soaked in isopropyl alcohol to disinfect them, and then disinfect the shears each time you begin pruning a new plant. Cut back the stem tips by 2 to 3 inches, lightly shaping to maintain an even, rounded shape. Deadheading and Harvest [图片]Lavender may flower a second time if you prune off the old flowers after the first flush of summer blooms. Prune off the flowers a second time in late summer if the plant flowers again. Deadhead after the flowers open and begin to wilt if you want lavender blooms in the garden. For harvesting and drying, cut off the flowers when only two or three buds on the flower spikes have opened. Trim out the spikes with disinfected shears, cutting the stem so the cut end is inside the main bush and not visible. For harvesting, tie the harvested spikes together in bundles and hang them in a dark, dry area until the buds are completely dry. Summer Shaping [图片]Main pruning occurs in summer, after the flower harvest. Cut back up to one-third of the leafy section of the stems, shaping the lavender into an evenly rounded mound as you prune. Avoid cutting into the woody stem bases. Lavender will not regrow from the lower stem sections, so cutting into wood will leave bare spots in the bush and weaken the lavender. Although summer, after the plant flowers, is the best time to prune, you can prune into late summer or early fall. However, avoid pruning in late fall because frost can damage the new growth encouraged by pruning. Rejuvenating Woody Plants [图片]Woody, overgrown lavender plants develop sparse foliage and may fall open, or split. In most cases replacement is the best option, but you may be able to rejuvenate the lavender with careful pruning. Prune for rejuvenation in spring when new growth begins showing on the stems. Cut back all the green stems to within 1 inch of the woody portion at the base, but don't remove the green completely. The lavender may produce fuller growth in response.

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Miss Chen

2018年08月29日

If you're growing a weigela (Weigela spp.) or you're thinking of planting one, you probably know that it's an especially easy-to-grow shrub. A tough plant that has masses of colorful flowers in late spring or early summer, a weigela is cold-tolerant and grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 9, depending on the variety. Whatever type of weigela you grow, it's a good idea to give it a bit of extra care as winter approaches and at winters end to help keep it flourishing. [图片]Fall Preparation Although a weigela is a deciduous plant that drops its leaves in fall, its roots continue functioning for a while and don't become dormant as quickly as the top growth. Because of this, it's important to support good root growth during fall, especially if your weigela is newly planted. Continue watering the shrub during fall, giving it extra water whenever the top 1 to 2 inches of its soil feel dry to the touch. Moist soil also tends to stay warm longer than dry soil, so watering through fall helps keep the roots warm. Adding a 6- or 8-inch layer of organic mulch, such as straw or shredded bark, in fall helps conserve soil moisture and keeps roots growing as long as possible. In cold-winter areas, mulch also protects the plant from freeze-thaw cycles that cause the ground to expand and contract. These cycles can heave roots out of the ground and damage them. Winter Sun Damage Because a weigela has no leaves in winter, its stems are susceptible to a problem called sun scald, which happens when sun heats up the bark on bright but cold days, stimulating activity in the stem that can be followed by tissue damage when the sun goes down and the stem is chilled. This is especially likely in a young or recently transplanted shrub, or in one planted where its south-facing side is unprotected. If sun scald develops, you'll see dried or cracked bark, or areas on a stem that are sunken or shriveled. You can help prevent sun scald by wrapping the larger stems on a weigela with a commercial tree wrap or a light-colored plastic tree guard. If your weigela is bushy and has only thin stems that aren't easily wrapped, provide some shade on the south-facing side by stapling a sheet of burlap to two or three stakes driven into the ground near the south-facing side of the shrub. At Winter's End Although weigela is a hardy plant, it's prone to winter dieback, especially in areas with harsh winters. Because of this, it's a good idea to examine the plant at the end of winter and prune off any dead stems. [图片]Double-check stems that look dead by scratching the bark with a fingernail. If tissue under the bark is greenish white, the stem is healthy, but dry tissue indicates the stem has died back. Remove dead stems by cutting into healthy tissue behind the damaged part, using sharp shears or a pruning knife that you wipe with rubbing alcohol between each cut to prevent spreading disease. You can also remove any broken or damaged branches at the end of winter, but a weigela has its heaviest flowering in spring on the previous season's growth, so it's best you don't prune heavily in winter to preserve flower buds. If your shrub is older and overgrown, you can stimulate its growth by pruning off a few large branches at the end of winter. Cut these off near the shrub's base to let light into its interior so new shoots can form.

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Miss Chen

2018年08月28日

The large, showy blooms of peonies tempt many gardeners to include them in a landscape. Peonies (Paeonia spp.) grow native in a wide variety of locations, including meadows and rocky ares. They typically prefer cool weather, but adapt readily to different garden conditions in Texas if properly cared for. [图片]Best Locations Different peony species require different growing conditions. Herbaceous garden peonies (Paeonia lactiflora) need at least six hours of full sun a day to bloom. In warm locations, afternoon sun helps prevent the flowers from fading. Tree peonies (Paeonia suffruticosa) prefer dappled shade. They do need part sun conditions to bloom, but must be protected from afternoon sunlight. Tree peonies and garden peonies also grow in different hardiness zones. Texas covers U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 6 through 9. Tree peonies are hardy in USDA zones 5 through 9, and can be grown throughout the state. Garden peonies are hardy in USDA zones 3 through 8, and will not grow in the southern plains and parts of the Gulf Coast. Planting Tips Peonies need deep, fertile soil that is well-drained but stays moist. In parts of Texas where soils are either dry and sandy or hard clay, amend the soil with well-rotted manure, compost or finely ground pine bark before planting. To do this, spread the organic matter 1 to 2 inches thick across the soil and then work it in to a depth of 12 inches. Garden peonies are typically sold bare-root. Dig a hole 12 to 18 inches deep and wide, then mound soil up in the middle of the hole to make a cone shape. Spread the roots out over the cone so that the swollen pink or reddish buds at the top of the plant are no more than 1 inch below the soil surface once the roots are covered. Plant tree peonies the same way, making sure the graft union is an inch below ground level. Space both types of peonies 3 to 4 feet apart. Both garden and tree peonies do best when planted in late summer or early fall, which gives them time to develop a strong root system before winter sets in without the stress of hot weather. Fertilizer Needs Fertilizing at planting time is optional. If you choose to fertilize, add 1/4 to 1/2 cup of dry, granular fertilizer with an N-P-K ratio of 10-10-10 to the bottom of the hole for each plant. It should not touch plant roots, so place it before making the cone of soil. You can also add 1/2 cup of bone meal or superphosphate at the same time. On a yearly basis, fertilize peonies with a slow-release, low-nitrogen fertilizer that has an N-P-K ratio of 5-10-5 or 10-10-10. In the spring, when stems are 2 or 3 inches high, apply this fertilizer at a rate of 2 to 3 pounds per 100 square feet, or 1/2 cup per plant. Don't let the fertilizer touch plant stems, and be sure to follow label directions. [图片]Watering Peonies Water peonies thoroughly after planting, then often enough to keep the soil moist but not soggy for the first year. It is better to water deeply rather than frequently, since deep watering encourages deep root systems. If watering causes run-off, give the water time to soak into the soil and them come back and finish watering. Once peonies are established, they need about an inch of water per week during the growing season. In dry areas of Texas, water peonies every week if there has been less than an inch of rain. If plants start to wilt during hot Texas summers, you can water more than an inch a week, or enough to keep the soil moist. To help cool the roots and retain moisture, apply 2 to 3 inches of an organic mulch in the spring, making sure it doesn't touch the crown of the plant.

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Miss Chen

2018年08月28日

Hostas--also called plaintain lilies--are low-growing foliage plants with large, showy leaves that can range in color from deep green through chartreuse into deep blue, with white, lavender or purple blooms in August. There are also variegated cultivars featuring cream, white or yellow centers or borders. Hostas excel as ground cover and add texture and interest to shaded sections of landscapes. Hostas can perform well in Texas as long as they are of the proper cultivar and don't get too much scorching summer sun. [图片]Step 1 Choose vigorous, healthy hostas cultivars with the best chances for growing well in Texas. According to the Texas A and M University Extension, good hostas varieties for Texas gardeners include the green-leafed lancifolia and royal standard cultivars, the blue-leafed blue cadet and blue angel types and the variegated sugar and cream and so sweet varieties. Examine the plant before purchase to make sure it is free of pests and diseases. Step 2 Choose a planting site in shade or partial sun with afternoon shade and make sure it has rich, moist soil. For more specific recommendations on sunlight, check the cultivar; blue-leaf hostas require more shade than green-leaf varieties, and too much bright sun will bleach out the leaf coloration of the yellow cultivars. Step 3 Prepare the garden bed in the spring by using a pitchfork to loosen soil to a depth of 12 to 15 inches, then mixing in a 2 to 4-inch layer of compost. Step 4 Dig a planting hole twice the size of the container the hosta was sold in, and place the hosta in the hole so the top of the root ball is level with the soil surface. Backfill with garden soil and firmly tamp the soil into place but don't press so hard that the soil becomes compacted. Space hostas 36 inches apart if planting more than one. Water your hostas well after planting, and continue to water regularly to keep the soil moist. [图片]Step 5 Apply a 2 1/2-inch layer of mulch to protect the roots, conserve moisture and provide a physical barrier against disease. Step 6 Fertilize hostas in early spring with a balanced slow-release granular fertilizer in a 10-10-10 NPK formulation. According to the University of Georgia Cooperative Extension, the fertilizer should be applied at a rate of 1/2 pound per 100 square feet. Step 7 Watch your hostas closely for damage from slugs, to which they are very susceptible. At the first sign of damage use slug bait or make a beer trap by leaving a saucer of beer by the hostas at night; slugs will crawl in and drown.

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Miss Chen

2018年08月28日

Large, silken-textured flowers of many colors grace peony (Paeonia spp.) bushes during the spring. Fall care helps spring blooms, but how you should care for peonies in the fall depends on what type of peony you're growing. Most common is the non-woody herbaceous peony (Paeonia lactiflora), hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 8. It dies back in fall and renews its growth from underground tubers each spring. Tree peony (Paeonia suffruticosa), growing in USDA zones 4 through 8, forms a deciduous woody shrub that remains in the garden year-round. [图片]Cutting Back Foliage If you have herbaceous peonies, remove all the old stems in late fall after the first frost turns the foliage yellow. Before cutting the stems, dip clean, sharp pruner blades in rubbing alcohol to lessen the chance of spreading disease. Discard all the cut foliage to prevent a fungal disease called botrytis blight or gray mold, which affects peonies and can survive the winter months in composted old stems. Providing Winter Protection Protect peonies from the winter cold, especially in colder areas of their hardiness zones. In late fall, give herbaceous perennials a mulch layer 2 to 3 inches thick, using an organic material such as shredded bark or straw. You can wait until after the ground freezes to apply mulch. For tree peonies in colder areas, such as zones 4 and 5, wrap the bush with burlap in late fall to provide protection against winds as well as cold temperatures. Pruning Shrubs Although tree peonies usually don't need much pruning, older bushes may become leggy. To renew the growth, prune the oldest tree peony branches back to the base in fall after the leaves drop. Clean the pruners with rubbing alcohol before pruning. However, if your tree peony is grafted rather than growing on its own roots, it's best not to do renewal pruning. Instead, moderately cut back some of the lower branches to fill out the base of the bush. Fertilizing Peonies If you want to use an organic fertilizer such as aged compost or aged manure, in late fall add a 2-inch-thick layer of either material on top of the soil around established peony bushes. If you use inorganic fertilizers, wait until spring. [图片]Moving Plants If you need to relocate either herbaceous or tree peonies, fall is the best time. Carefully dig around and then under the roots, taking care not to damage the fleshy tubers. Lever the peony out of the ground, disturbing the root mass as little as possible. Transplant it in the new location, which should be in sun with well-draining, rich soil. Keep the plant at its original soil level, and water it well. Dividing Plants Large, established herbaceous peonies can be divided in the fall to renew growth or to make new plants, although clumps can grow in place for 40 or 50 years without division. To divide a plant, cut back the foliage, and then carefully dig up the peony and shake or wash the dirt away from the root system. Use a sharp knife cleaned with rubbing alcohol and cut the clump into divisions, each holding three to five eyes and several roots. Eyes are the buds on top of the crown that grow into new stems. Replant each piece in its new garden location, placing the buds 1 to 2 inches below the soil surface. Water the divisions thoroughly.

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Miss Chen

2018年08月28日

There are many varieties of phlox available to gardeners, from dwarf varieties that are stunning in borders and beds to tall varieties that grow to 3 feet or more and are used in background plantings. A perennial, phlox produces spikes of brightly colored flowers that rise from the green foliage. Phlox can bloom for six weeks or longer when properly cared for. Deadheading removes the spent blossoms and prevents the phlox from setting seed, which helps prolong flowering while also keeping the plants attractive. [图片]Step 1 Cut off spent flower clusters as soon as the flowers begin to wither with a pair of small shears. Cut 1/4 inch above the bud that is forming immediately beneath the spent flower cluster. Step 2 Cut off the entire flower spike once all the buds have bloomed and there are no new buds forming along the stem. Cut the spike off where it emerges from the plant. [图片]Step 3 Dispose of or compost the removed flower clusters and spikes after deadheading. Phlox is prone to powdery mildew, and the fungal spores can survive in the dead plant matter, where they can then infect the entire plant.

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Miss Chen

2018年08月28日

Both ornamental and edible ginger plants add attractive foliage to the garden. Edible ginger is grown for its ornamental features, as well as for its edible roots, or rhizomes, while ornamental ginger is prized for its colorful floral bracts. Ginger is grown from rhizomes, or enlarged roots, regardless of the variety. Whether you are dividing the roots of a crowded plant colony, planting a new plant or moving an existing plant to a new area, proper transplanting is necessary so that the ginger continues to thrive in the garden. [图片]Step 1 Loosen the soil around the ginger plant with a spading fork if you are transplanting it to a new bed or dividing it. Lift the ginger rhizomes out of the soil, leaving any foliage in place. If you are dividing the plant, cut 1- to 2-inch-long pieces of the rhizomes from the outside of the root system, cutting the pieces so that they have at least one bud on them. Leave the rest of the plant in the ground. Step 2 Prepare a partially to fully shaded garden bed for the ginger. Apply a 2-inch layer of compost over the planting area and work it into the top 6 inches of soil. Step 3 Plant the ginger rhizomes at a 1-inch depth. Space additional plants 15 inches apart in all directions. Sow the rhizome so that the bud or foliage is on the top. [图片]Step 4 Water the bed thoroughly after transplanting, moistening it to a 6-inch depth. Spread a 1- to 2-inch mulch layer over the bed to help preserve soil moisture between waterings.

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Miss Chen

2018年08月27日

Poinsettias produce deep red blooms in winter, adding color to holiday tables. A tropical perennial plant, poinsettias can survive and bloom for many years with proper care. Poinsettias do not require high levels of light, one of the reasons they are favored as a potted plant. The flowers of the poinsettia are actually modified leaf structures called bracts. Once these have wilted and begun to die off, the poinsettia requires a thorough pruning. Poinsettias may also require some trimming throughout the growing season in order to remain full and healthy. [图片]Step 1 Trim off the leaves on each poinsettia stem once the plant finishes blooming in March, leaving just three to four leaves on each stem. Cut the stems back to half their former height with shears. Step 2 Trim off the top of each stem when they are 4 to 6 inches long in summer. Cut off the top 1/2 inch of each tip, as this helps the poinsettia grow full and bushy. Step 3 Trim off the growing tips on each stem a second time in August if the stems have put on at least an additional 5 inches of growth since the last pruning. [图片]Step 4 Cut out any damaged or dead leaves throughout the growing period. Remove these where they emerge from the stems.

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Miss Chen

2018年08月27日

Fill patio planters and pots with hydrangeas (Hydrangea spp.) in spring for a summer full of flowers. Hydrangeas grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 9 depending on the species, and they range in size from 3 to 9 feet tall. Two varieties that grow well in containers are big leaf hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla), hardy in USDA zones 5 through 9, and mountain hydrangea (Hydrangea serrata), hardy in USDA zones 6 through 9. While spring is the best time to plant, you can pot up hydrangeas anytime through summer. [图片]The Right Planter When selecting a planter for hydrangeas, consider both aesthetics and functionality. You can choose the material of the planter based on aesthetics, such as wood, colored plastic, terracotta or glazed ceramic, but it must have drainage holes. Terracotta and wood dry out more rapidly, so if watering is an issue in your area, consider plastic or glazed ceramic. Some new pots come with a plug in the bottom covering the drainage hole. Make sure to pop it out before planting hydrangeas. Look for a planter or pot 2 to 4 inches bigger in diameter than the nursery pot or planter the hydrangea is in. Disinfecting Pots and Planters Clean and disinfect both new and old planters before planting. Dump out old dirt and give the pot a scrub with detergent and water to remove any soil particles. Fill a bucket or trough -- make sure its large enough to submerge the planter -- with a 9-to-1 water-to-bleach solution. Soak the old planters for 10 to 15 minutes. Remove the planter and wash it with soapy water, then rinse. Allow the pot to air-dry before potting up your new hydrangeas. Large planters are difficult to soak because it's not always easy to find something large enough for full submersion. An alternative method is to seal the drain holes temporarily -- try duct tape -- then fill the container up to the top with the bleach solution. Allow it to sit in the pot for 10 minutes, then drain, remove the tape, wash, rinse and allow to dry. Acidic Potting Blend Hydrangeas like acidic potting soil. Use peat moss to increase the acidity of regular potting soil. Use equal parts of each, and blend them thoroughly before planting. If the peat moss is dry, soak it in a bucket of water overnight, then drain out the excess water before mixing it with potting soil. [图片]Scoop two to three handfuls of potting medium into the bottom of the container to form a base for the root ball. Potting Up Gently wiggle the hydrangea out of the nursery pot, handling it by the roots, and set it on top of the peat moss and potting soil blend. Add or take out material from the bottom of the pot until the top of the root ball is 3 inches below the edge of the pot. Fill in around the roots with additional damp peat moss, bringing the level up to the base of the stalks. Place potted hydrangeas in full morning sun with light afternoon shade. For an indoor plant, set it in a room with bright morning light but no direct afternoon sun. Water and Fertilizer Water potted hydrangeas immediately after planting, then each time the potting mix starts to dry out 1 inch deep. Soak the potting mix until a little extra leaks out the drainage hole in the bottom. That way you know the water penetrated through to the bottom. Fertilize right after planting, then every two weeks, with a complete water-soluble fertilizer. Dilute 3/4 tablespoon in 1 1/2 gallons of water and use it, along with additional water if necessary, to water the potting soil of outdoor plants. Repot in Spring Repot hydrangeas in early spring before new growth starts using a blend of equal parts peat moss and potting soil. Gently tease the root ball out of the container and brush of excess dirt to expose the outer roots. Check for rot or mushy spots and pull apart roots that circle the root ball. Repot in the same planter, or go up a pot size if the root ball is crowded in the old planter.

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Miss Chen

2018年08月27日

A hanging basket provides a colorful show of blooms during summer. Use perennial plants for your hanging basket for lasting value, since they start to grow again in spring. Choose different varieties of plants for volume and interest. Use trailing plants to hang over the side of the basket and add foliage plants as a green background to bright colored flowers. Water a hanging basket daily, and dead-head the flowers regularly to ensure a continuous display. Dianthus [图片]A profusion of summer flowers Normally known as carnations or pinks, the dianthus comes in over 300 varieties. A good border flower for cutting, several species are compact enough for planting in the center of a basket, providing a profusion of flowers during summer. Available in a range of bright colors, many of the blooms are scented. Fuchsia [图片]Ballerina-like fuchsia flowers Available in a variety of species, a trailing fuchsia, such as the white and crimson "Cascade," makes an ideal, colorful plant to grow over the edge of a hanging basket. The different types of fuchsia produce pretty, ballerina-like flowers in shades of pink and white and they are easy to grow all summer. Geranium [图片]The geranium is a hardy perennial. Normally used for ground cover in gardens, the ivy-leaved geranium is an excellent trailer that adds depth to a display. With evergreen leaves and delicate pink or lilac flowers, the geranium is a hardy perennial which blooms for most of the summer. Remove flowered stems and old leaves to encourage new growth. Ivy (Hedera) [图片]Variegated ivy provides a green background. An evergreen, hardy plant, the ivy comes with a variety of leaf shapes and variegation. It is a perfect perennial for providing a background for more showy colors, as it trails gracefully from hanging baskets. Keep the leaves clipped to maintain its shape. Be careful to wear gloves as ivy sap may irritate the skin. Petunia [图片]A perennial petunia flowers all season. The petunia plant is available in a variety of species, from the large-flowered grandiflora to the bushier multiflora. Ranging from pink and red, to violet and white, there is a perennial petunia to suit all color schemes. The "Surfina Series'" of grandiflora petunia has a trailing habit which is ideal for hanging baskets. They are available only as young plants and flower well all season. Viola [图片]The viola brightens a hanging basket. The evergreen viola is a fast growing plant that provides masses of pretty flowers during summer in shades of purple, white or lavender. Dead-head to prolong flowering for as long as possible. With rich, velvet colors, the viola x wittrockiana, commonly known as the pansy, brightens up the center of hanging baskets.

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